Secret experimental 1964 GX 455

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Ronnie... are ya in here??   ws

[GranSportSedan]

Bill, in your situation you want to use the holes in the frame pads that keep your Z bar hole in the block aligned with the Z bar bracket on the frame. that way you keep all your clutch pedal geometry from being wonky.  the only option you have for the motor mounts in an A body is the rear set of holes in the block. the front holes are big car only

[yachtsmanbill]

Absolutely correct! I am calling the Z-bar geometry the "datum point". Theres not that much give in it, but its a wayyy better design than the later models. It also "seems" that there should be plenty of room for the oil pan to crossmember fit. So will the T/A frame pads fit up on the frame and engine block mounted motor mounts? I sure hope so.
   I was considering a mock up... hope thats not gonna be necessary.  However, as I am a pistol for cleaning and tapping all the fastener connections (nuts and bolts etc), if some thing is off, its not a major kampf to unfasten and move.   ws

[GranSportSedan]

TA frame pads will work in that 64 chassis just fine. I used a bare block to do a mock up to get everything just where I wanted it before trying to drop a fully dressed 455 in place.

[yachtsmanbill]

MAN! Thats so purty, its a shame to hafta cover it all with sheet metal! I wished I had the luxury of working like that!! Im still in search of the flywheel. Any ideal how long of a speedo cable to get to the passenger side drive hole, and does that cable go over or under the trans? Some one across the hall said there were two clamps for it on the trans mount bolts but didnt say up or down! 

BTW   166 T flexplate fit the OEM bellhousing just hinky-dinky!  ws

[yachtsmanbill]

So it was -2F this morning but spring has sprung. I found out that following the book was great, until I went to jack up the lower control arm with no motor or sheet metal on the front. The springs lifted the rest of the car off the jack stands! Couldnt get enough lift to release the nut on the upper ball joint that was only on by about 2-3 turns. Hmm...

What would Akhenattan do? Think like an Egyptian. I grabbed a short 3/4 ton come along and hooked it on the upper with the chain to the lower. A few clicks and it was up far enough to release the nut. Then ratcheted it all the way down and pulled the springs. Eezy-Peezy. There was a bunch of sandy crud in the lower saddles but after a shot with a screwdriver and vacuum, it was clean enough to really clean up for some finesse work.

The ball joints released out of the taper with a few smacks of the hammer, and stopped on the nuts aided by the spring tension. One or two more days of taking stuff apart and itll be ready for re-assembly.

How about this under-the-dash-shot? I need to get a longer speedo cable for the T-10. How long do I need? The drive is on the passenger side, so its over or under the trans face.  ws

[yachtsmanbill]

Some more time capsule pics. Still finding neat stuff... Still need that longer speedo cable and an antenna mast...     ws

[Brian]

Bill,
  PLEASE DO NOT throw out that master cylinder!   Those of us on here doing original restorations are all the time trying to find those to send off and be sleeved/rebuilt.  That one you have there is a beauty and you need to put it up for sale on here.  Same thing for the shocks--if they came off without any damage to the threaded end, they can be rebuilt for a car going thru 400 pt judging.   They fit right on the GS just like they do that Special. 

[yachtsmanbill]

YEP... I was using the Hands of a Surgeon removing this stuff. I even saved the "OK" brake lines and the OEM "T" fitting. The shocks came off with a small vise grip on the double D on top of the stem, and a box wrench on the nuts. After they were loose, they spun off by finger. Bushings and washers almost perfect.  The master cylinder is perfect as well. Personally, a final thought at bedtime no less, was if I were a judge, I couldnt nick anyone more than a point for a true safety upgrade like a double master.

So I finally got my T/A engine pads today; yippee! What a quality piece (2) of cast iron! So theres 6 holes drilled and tapped in each one. Do I use the forward or rear mounted holes for the 455? I hate to crowd the firewall with the heater hose conns and power brake booster right there. Thoughts? Ideas?? Ive heard the block holes to use get the motor forward as far as possible. Thats about 1-1/2".    ws

[WkillGS]

... Still need that longer speedo cable ...     ws

Try your local auto parts store or Amazon, $12-$18.
ATP pn Y804 is 63"
pn Y803 is 83"
pn Y892 is 100"
pn Y863 is 120"

Full list of their cables is here:
http://atpautomotive.com/cables?engine=0&limit=200&make=0&model=0&subcategory=713&year=0

The 1966 assembly manual shows 56" for automatic and 68" for 3 speed manual.

[197064buickspec]

http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=569310

[yachtsmanbill]

Thanks Brian... since I am gonna need the base plate and all that stuff, Im gonna wait for the West Bend swap meet in Feb.

Walt... thanks for the numbers, kinda weird the auto and manual numbers are so different; I think the T-10 on the passenger side is like 80+ inches. Ill hafta measure the old one, add, and hope LOL...  ws

[Brian]

Bill,
   The 65 and 66 GS cars that came with the 3-speed manual used a Ford top-loader 3-speed, which had the speedo connection on the passenger side.  So Walt's information above for the speedo cable length on the GS with 3-speed should get you really close. 

[elagache]

Dear Bill, Brian, Walt, Brian, and mid-60s Buick "parts hounds,"

Still need . . .  an antenna mast...     ws

http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=569310

Yup, that's the mast on my trusty wagon now.  Here are pictures of the original and the Fusick reproduction.



It isn't identical, but I would assume even a Buick Club of America judge would be fooled by this reproduction.

Here is what it looks like on the car:



You certainly cannot go wrong with that!

Cheers, Edouard 

[yachtsmanbill]

A Ford top loader??? How bizarre! The '64 crash box is a muncie for sure with the speedo connection on the drivers side. Maybe that 68" job will fit. Hmm

Sooo Buick restorers and audiophiles; when the mast mounts to the fender, does it just butt up against the stub on the cowl, and the black nut tighten it up? Being the anti-purist that I am, I have considered installing one or two Chevrolet SS angled antennas on the rear fenders.  $50.00 aint the end of the world, but wheres the attaching stuff come from??  ws