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Projects & Restorations => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: Aussie Skylark on March 29, 2019, 10:18:42 PM
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Hi Guys,
Unfortunately I dont have too many photos of my 65 Skylark from when I first got it home. I have a few photos I will put up as it was leaving the US, I'm keen to know if anyone here noticed it on ebay when it was sold around 2015. I bought the car off a bloke here in my home town who bought on ebay from San Francisco. It was last registered in California in 2015, I have the plates. I have stripped the car and started on the body work, the trunk was fairly bad but Im getting there. I have had the shell blasted and I hope to have the body split from the chassis in the next few months after I have finished in the trunk and floor. fairly well everything on this car needs work, its going to be a long term project.
Regards
Marcus
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Work in progress
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Welcome Marcus. That certainly is a BIG project. Plenty of help and guidance to be found by the people on this forum. BTW that is one spooky cat in your first picture.
Dan
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factory typo?
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Hey Dan,
That my dog, she gets in most photos
Marcus
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My bad. Those spooky eyes.
If that’s not a ‘typo’ it is an amazing coincidence.
Dan
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Good luck on the project. Keep us updated!
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Thanks for beginning the restoration thread. And for the pictures. Glad you've got it started. Keep us posted and ask all the questions that you want!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Dear Marcus, Dan, Jim, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Since this is your first postings on 65GS.com, by all means welcome! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/welcome_smiley.gif)
I'm keen to know if anyone here noticed it on ebay when it was sold around 2015.
Hopefully one of the other fellows might be able to help you with that. Having one 53-3/4 year old Buick is all I can handle these days!
I bought the car off a bloke here in my home town who bought on ebay from San Francisco. It was last registered in California in 2015, I have the plates.
Can you do anything with those original California license plates? Hard to tell from your photo, but the front plate looks in decent shape for its age.
I have stripped the car and started on the body work, the trunk was fairly bad but Im getting there. I have had the shell blasted and I hope to have the body split from the chassis in the next few months after I have finished in the trunk and floor. fairly well everything on this car needs work, its going to be a long term project.
Cars this old usually need a lot of repairs since very few people take good care of 50+ year old cars throughout their lives. How does the drive train look?
Thanks for joining our little community and please do keep us posted on your progress! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Gidday Fellas,
Hope you guys have had a good weekend,
Dan no worries about my dog, she loves the car as much as I do.
That old Buick that found me sure provides some good quality shed time. I had no intention on buying a Buick just noticed it for sale, had a look and thought is was worth the time to rebuild plus the price was good and they are no too common here at all, it sure has grown on me. When I first bought it the guy before me had partially pulled it down and removed the engine wiring harness. There was no front end on it, I strapped a fuel can to the front chassis, a battery to the drivers dash area [no windscreen] hot wired the starter and fired it up. I did one lap of my backyard with the kids in it and shut it down, I have a video but not sure if it can be attached to this forum. After the run I bolted it all together and worked out what was missing, all I found missing was a AC ball on the drivers side and the Hood latch. Have since bought a hood latch.
The plates are in fair condition. I like how the registration stickers are on them and last US rego was when the car was 50 years old. I'm not sure if the plates are any good to me here, they might be a talking piece. I can get AUS plates made in the same colour and letters, I'm years off registration though.
I'm classing the drive train as toast and planning on rebuilding the entire system. I know it has at best a blown head gasket, there was as much water in the sump as oil when I got it, I put fresh oil in it and ran with no water when I started it. It sounded to be OK, all cylinders fired and there were no horrible noises. I only ran it for a bout 2 minutes and shut it down. The engine and auto are packed away till I finish the sheet metal and paint.
Thanks for the support and warm welcomes, I look forward to being part of 65GS. Hope you enjoy the following photos.
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I'm way late but a quick reply.
The plates are in fair condition. I like how the registration stickers are on them and last US rego was when the car was 50 years old. I'm not sure if the plates are any good to me here, they might be a talking piece. I can get AUS plates made in the same colour and letters, I'm years off registration though.
I didn't know that Australia had black plates. That's neat that you'll be able to keep the same look and feel of a California car from the 1960s. My car lost her 1960s plates when she was stolen in 1986. I finally got for her some "retro" vanity plates with her name a few year ago. I'm glad to have her back with period correct plates.
Please to post those pictures when you have the chance!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Edouard, and other readers,
Yep I can get black background with yellow writing, main difference is it will have Queensland not California as the home state. $480 Aussie dollars.
Cheers Marcus
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Photo taken after I put the front end back on, and a rusty old trunk.
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Repairs to the radiator support and RHS inner guard.
I have to be a little crafty here as there is no such thing as a Donner car in AUS. I folded up the lower section on the support panel and welded it in, managed to cut a section out of a Holden {Aussie car} inner guard here and made it fit.
I have since folded up a new battery tray as well. Hope no die hard Buick fans don't mind me making parts rather than going original or reproduced, I have to be a little inventive given the distance between AUS and USA.
More photos to come, having a little trouble attaching.
Marcus
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Rear deck replaced and section under windscreen.
Unfortunately I didn't do this myself, after I had a look at the progress that was being done and took the photo the panel beater who was doing the work decided to weld along the factory seems that join the rear deck to the quarter panel. I decided to do my own body work after that.
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Repairs made to trunk section, thanks to Brian for the Donner sections he sold me.
Another photo of my helpful dog Tilly.
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Dog photo wouldn't work so its the trunk again
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks for all the photos! Can you tell us the sort of problems you are having uploading photos? Normally the problem is that the photos are too large, but your photos don't seem unreasonably large.
Yep I can get black background with yellow writing, main difference is it will have Queensland not California as the home state. $480 Aussie dollars.
Well, you are registering the car in Australia - so you'd hope it would have a region of Australia! Is the $480 the initial registration fee? I hope you don't have too steep an annual fee.
I'm classing the drive train as toast and planning on rebuilding the entire system. I know it has at best a blown head gasket, there was as much water in the sump as oil when I got it, I put fresh oil in it and ran with no water when I started it. It sounded to be OK, all cylinders fired and there were no horrible noises. I only ran it for a bout 2 minutes and shut it down. The engine and auto are packed away till I finish the sheet metal and paint.
As you say, you are a long way from getting to that aspect of the project, but do you have a trustworthy machine shop available and can you get the parts you need to rebuild the engine? I assume this is the standard Buick 300 V-8 and ST-300 two speed transmission.
Thanks again for sharing and by all means keep us posted!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Mid 60's Buick Fans,
I found the photos of my car before it left USA to see if anyone remembers spotting it while it was on ebay this was in early 2015. Somewhere in its travels it lost the Rally wheels and ended up with the hot wires that are currently on it.
Answers to previous questions,
When I attempted to post photos a note came up the web site was not available. seems to be working now.
The drive train is a 300 ci 2 speed auto, there are workshops here one in particular who specialises in Buick V8's, he is also in the same state as me.
The $480 is just to buy the plates there is registration on top of that, I think a V8 registration is around $1300 year. There are options to register with club rego its a lot cheaper, just means restricted driving. you can drive to a club meeting, a car show, a repair shop or within a few miles from home.
I'm working on floor pans this weekend, hope to get some photos up later. Has anyone had experience with using panel glue to install floor pan sections instead of traditional welding and grinding method? I haven't used any yet, its looking a lot easier than all that welding and grinding. I'm very interested in any advice on gluing steel.
Marcus
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Looks like a decent project from your pictures Marcus, thanks for keeping us updated.
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Hi Guys,
I'm in the process of making repair sections for my floor pan.
Can anyone tell me if the reinforcing groves I have marked with paint pen are needed to support the back seat?
Thought I would ask before I dig the seat from storage and drop it in.
Regards
Marcus
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Hi Buick Lovers,
I have made up my first floor pan repair patch, not installed yet. I made it from 1 mm mild steel and folded the lines to house the rear wiring harness.
It seems strong enough, I don't think it needs any reinforcing groves.
Any one made these before ? any comments will be appreciated. I know I can buy the repair sections needed but I'm up for $2K to get them here.
Regards
Marcus
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G'day Marcus! Ive been lurking on yer post here, so Im just as guilty when it comes to ragging about poor response numbers...
Your doing just fine. Sheet metal is weird stuff to work with. Pound for pound , with appropriately placed reinforcements it can become very structural. Keep the pound for pound part going; Without strategic stiffening it can become a floppy piece of sheet metal and no more than a tin can patch. You dont need to overdo it, but a few well placed channels attached to the underside will strengthen it substantially, and get you away from the snare drum syndrome.
I understand your reluctance to weld. Some blokes just dont have the ways or means. Cold working with epoxy is OK for stuff like this; the trick is adhesion and rigidity. Fit the pieces, the apply your adhesive and pop rivet them together before curing. I also use "tech screws" which come in a million sizes and are self drilling. It really boils down to the fact if youre worried about the judges (LOL) seeing the install. I am my own worst judge. As they say, Form follows Function. The only real disadvantage to mechanically fastening is the outward appearance from underneath. This stuff is pretty sound after curing. In a tube, how easy can it be???
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm)
On the sheet metal channel conundrum, find an HVAC or aluminum house siding guy that can bend stuff in a sheet metal break. I bought a cheap chinaman knock off at Harbor Fright here. With a 24 inch capacity it handles most of what I need to do, better than hammering a break over a 2x4 in the vise. Good luck and dont give up the ship! Bill
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Dear Marcus, Jim, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I'm glad that you found ways to post photos and thanks for the updates!
The $480 is just to buy the plates there is registration on top of that, I think a V8 registration is around $1300 year. There are options to register with club rego its a lot cheaper, just means restricted driving. you can drive to a club meeting, a car show, a repair shop or within a few miles from home.
Sorry to hear that the annual registration fee is so steep. It seems silly to charge such a high premium for a V-8 on a 54 year old car. No matter how enthusiastic you are, you just cannot drive a classic that many miles. Alas, common sense and law don't always coincide.
Keep the updates coming! :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Gidday Edouard, Bill and other Mid 60's Buick fans,
Thanks for your replies,
Bill, you answered my questions. I have only found out about using panel glue instead of welding. I have a welder, grinder, sander ect and can use them however being advised by a local panel beater here about glue, and how well it works made me think how may hours I can save for the cost of a tube of glue. You are exactly right it comes down to the "Judges" and I too am my worst. I break it down to my scope for this project, I'm not building a show car, I'm building a good old driver that I can jump in start and drive. As for the pound for pound bit, I hear you there. I have a folding press, I used it to fold the black section in photo. I was also a plumber in a previous life so I have folded and cut my fair share of sheet metal, I'm driving my neighbours mad at the moment tap tap tap. I have made ply wood patterns with a router and dressing metal into the pattern, it works just a bit slow.......but free.
Edouard, I plan to pay for standard registration when I first get the car on the road, then proceed to drive the wheels off it. Following that I will go for club registration, I think its only a few hundred $$. My biggest problem is hoping there is still plenty of fuel around when I need it Ha.
Back to the tap tap tap, any more advice will be appreciated.
Marcus
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Hello Marcus,
The best forum for autobody I know of is
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php (http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php)
I do a fair amount of metal fab and welding but have not yet used panel adhesive, nor have I studied much about it. I have read very good things about it.
For metal fab, I've found a bead roller and a shrinker/stretcher set to be very helpful.
Like most, I started fab using basic hammer/dollies and a vise to bend and form metal. The bead roller can be very versatile, especially when doing a curved bend.... but the metal will then need to be shrunk/stretched to maintain proper form.
Those rear seat channels are likely just to stiffen the panel and reduce noise. You could likely do without, or add a reinforcement rib by tack welding or gluing something on. Using a body hammer and a form is another method.
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Hi Readers,
I've spent a few days working on my Skylark replacing the trunk floor that was rusted out. I made the floor out of steel sheet, not an original look but will suit my needs. Happy to read your comments on my work.
Marcus
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Floor removed
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New floor in and ready for paint
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There was bad rust here where the trunk catch bracket was welded to the floor. I managed to cut it out and slide a new section in fairly easy.
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Finished job,
I'm sure I have posted incorrectly here, hope you can all see without any problems. Been a while since I used this forum.
I made all the sections here by hand, ready to move on to the next step now.
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Sorry last photo is upside down.........I am in the "Land Downunder"
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G'day mate! I hafta admire your tenacity for see this along as far as youve come! Dont give up the ship! If youve had a chance to read along on my "secret experimental GX 455 thred"), youll see that you and I have done much the same. I must admit that your body was a tad rustier than mine, but it was stored in a dirty barn for almost 40 years. Theres 38,000 miles on the clock.
I took the liberty of switching your last picture to one from the northern latitudes LOL. Damn Yanks! Im getting ready for an initial wet sand today, and then some good primer, then paint. The next big step will be re-assembly of all the trim type stuff without scratching the new paint job, right?
How'd your sheet metal glue work out? My job was all welding and the problem was dirty/painted surfaces on the BACKSIDE that couldnt be reached for adequate cleaning= poor welding results. Lotsa burn throughs haha!
I gonna repost the last pic and a few of mine. I hope it wets yer whistle. I guess that makes us kindred spirits eh Gubna? Bill in Wisconsin, USA.
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Looks like nice progress Marcus!
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Dear Marcus, Bill, Jim, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks Marcus for the update! I had been wondering how your project was going and even comtemplated asking. I'm glad to see that you are making good progress!! :icon_thumright:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Nice Marcus! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Remarkable Marcus, your efforts are exceptional.
I am curious about your licensing fees or taxes, a bit pricey. Do you pay a road tax on fuel also? What is the price of fuel per gallon at your corner gas station?
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Hi Guys
Thanks for the comments you have posted about my work so far, its a good feeling to know you "Yanks" have my back. All my mates here have Australian muscle cars and I'm the odd one out with a Buick.
Bill,
I have scrolled through your posts, you really are smashing that one out. Your posts will definitely be a point of reference as I get more into mine. I only ended up using glue on the join where the old and new steel lapped under rear window section across the width of the car, the rest was spot welded with a MIG. Ive talked of this for some time, however next week I'm driving to Sydney to pick up a rotisserie, then the body can be removed from the chassis and the fun will really start.
2500 klm trip ....looking forward to it.
Kevin I have a few answers for you, I think you need to be sitting when you see the prices...
Fuel, today I will be paying $1.55 / Litre of fuel. I know you blokes work in gallons so here comes some maths
1 Gallon = 3.78 Litres
3.78 x $1.55= $5.86 AUD / Gallon, then if we work on the exchange rate from AUD to USD
$1 USD = $0.67 AUS
$5.86 x 0.67= $3.93, so answer to your question in US terms we pay $3.93/ Gallon for fuel. This price includes all taxes as far as fuel goes.
Registration, full drive every day registration will cost me about $1,200 AUD or about $800 USD. This price covers all road taxes and third party insurance. I can get club registration that is about $200 AUS however this is limited to how far I can drive from home (test driving) and the time of day I can drive for general driving. With club registration I can drive across the country if I was in a club run or driving to a car show, but would need to be able to prove this if an insurance claim was made or the police wanted to give me a bad day. I'ts not really policed but we all know trouble can brew from not following the rules.
Have a good week
Marcus
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Hey Marcus, my sympathy for your $$$ woes. KRIKEY thats expensive! Gas here has dropped 10 cents a week for the last 3 weeks.
https://www.gasbuddy.com/Station/138896 (https://www.gasbuddy.com/Station/138896)
I guess we need a nice big refinery fire so the CEO's can get their golden parachutes re-packed LOL.
Im glad I looked for about a year before finding the BADLASS. I dont know if I have enough umpff left for another frame off restoration. Mine is really solid, minus the trunk floor which sat for almost 40 years with a piece of wet carpeting in it. The front fenders each had a 1" hole at the bottoms and then some majorly minor dings etc. Old school body work prevailed! I used only 1/2 pint of filler. Everything else is steel. Not bad.
Have a safe trip picking up that rotisserie. Watch out for those tourist who dont know which side of the road to drive on. Been there and done that in the Bahamas haha. Scared the heck outa me AFTER the lecture even... Whats 2500Km? About 1500 miles? Thats a wee walk through the rough up here haha. Bill
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Hi Fellas,
I'm starting to get ready to for my chassis/ drive train rebuild and want to start ordering parts. My plan is to strip, paint and rebuild the chassis and drive train so the body can be put on and painted.
I've got a few questions for those blokes who have done it all before me.
Is it recommended to rebuild the chassis and drive train replace the body and then paint, or paint the body off the frame then put the two together. Hope this doesn't sound like an armature question (guess I am armature as I haven't rebuild a Buick before). I have a bloke lined up here to paint the Skylark for me and he wants the body on the chassis so he can align doors trunk and hood when the paint goes on. Looking through photos of rebuilds it appears its common to paint bodies off the frame?
I'm also after contacts for supplier to buy suspension components, body mount rubbers, drive train rebuild kits. I seen plenty on eBay and the likes but thought I would ask you blokes who the "Go to people" are in the US.
The Aussie dollar is staring to climb and I'm getting ready to buy some new toys.
Thanks Marcus
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Is it recommended to rebuild the chassis and drive train replace the body and then paint, or paint the body off the frame then put the two together. Hope this doesn't sound like an armature question (guess I am armature as I haven't rebuild a Buick before). I have a bloke lined up here to paint the Skylark for me and he wants the body on the chassis so he can align doors trunk and hood when the paint goes on. Looking through photos of rebuilds it appears its common to paint bodies off the frame?
I'm completely out of my league, but I would guess the choice is a usual time versus effort question. If you paint the body separately, you can go as far as to paint everything in components which reduces having to mask as much and avoid the potential problems of paint over-spray. However, your bloke is probably correct that painting first and then doing the assembly will make aligning things harder. As a result, more time will have to be spent making sure the doors are hung with the best possible alignment. If you are doing all the work, perhaps that extra effort is worth it. On the other hand, plenty of cars get a very good paint jobs without being taken apart. So you can go with your bloke's point of view and still end up with a very nice looking car.
I'm also after contacts for supplier to buy suspension components, body mount rubbers, drive train rebuild kits. I seen plenty on eBay and the likes but thought I would ask you blokes who the "Go to people" are in the US.
The Aussie dollar is staring to climb and I'm getting ready to buy some new toys.
Can someone step in and answer these sorts of questions? (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/anyone_sign.gif)
One issue is whether or not you want to rebuild your suspension stock or improve your handling. If you want to upgrade, there is a lot of competition on those components because most of these parts are interchangeable for any GM A-Body.
There are more than one vendor for rubber products. I don't know which is best (if any) for the body mounts.
I'm not sure what's the best move for rebuilding your engine and transmission either. Engine rebuild kits may not have the best components. It might be better to assemble what you need piecemeal and get the best of each category. The Buick 300 V-8 is something of an orphaned engine and your choice of components is also limited.
Hopefully, the rest of gang will chime in and offer some more concrete advice.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Fellas,
I will keep podding along, I do have plenty of time on my side to get this rebuild finished.
I've left a message on Kevin's post regarding lifting the body off and where he connected his rigging. Anyone have any Do's and Dont's when it comes to lifting a shell off the frame.
Thanks Marcus.
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Marcus,
See my reply in Kevin's post...I read it first and responded there.
Chuck
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Thanks Fellas,
I will keep podding along, I do have plenty of time on my side to get this rebuild finished.
I've left a message on Kevin's post regarding lifting the body off and where he connected his rigging. Anyone have any Do's and Dont's when it comes to lifting a shell off the frame.
Thanks Marcus.
Make sure the emergency brake cable is removed.. Check all 14 body mount points for bolts. Some cars have rubber pads in a couple spots and others use bolts at every point. I thought I had ll mine out until the rear wheels came off the ground.
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Hi Mid 60's Buick Team,
I'm inching closer to parting the body from the frame, have a few more questions for those who have walked before me.
Anyone know how heavy the body is? would you worry about bracing a body across the door opening with a hard top, similar to how Kevin did with the convertible? I'm fairly sure the answer here is no, but I wanted to check...?hey I'm an engineer, I'm forever questioning.
Thanks Marcus
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Hey Mate,
No additional bracing is necessary for a hard top or post sedan body. I don't know the weight , but four guys can pick one up fairly easily.
Good to see you are making some headway,
Loren
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Hi Buick Lovers,
More progress made in AUS, I have the frame off the body and ready to rebuild the motor. Starting to look at suspension, brakes and frame restoration.
Happy to take any recommendations on disk brake conversions and suspension components.
Regards Marcus
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Body off frame
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Body on rotisserie
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
More progress made in AUS, I have the frame off the body and ready to rebuild the motor.
Thanks for the photos! You are making great progress!
What's your plan for rebuilding the engine? Are you going to have the parts machined and rebuild it yourself or are you going to send it to an engine rebuilder?
Happy to take any recommendations on disk brake conversions and suspension components.
How close do you want to keep the car stock appearing? I haven't been paying very close attention, but it appears trying to use the original wheels with any front disc brake conversion kit is difficult. Can somebody correct me on this one?
If you were thinking about going with larger tires (and therefore wheels,) there are lots of choices for disc brakes (front only or all 4 wheels) and suspension upgrades. If you let us know what you had in mind for the car we can better help with recommendations.
Thanks for the update!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Nice progress!
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Hi Edouard and other readers
Thanks for opening the can of worms....this is where my questions will begin to fly.
My plan for the engine rebuild is to keep it as close to factory spec's as possible. I have had the engine running when I first got it home, it has either a blown head gasket or a cracked head there was water in the sump oil. So if its a non repairable cracked head I will be on this forum seeking anyone with a set of heads for sale to fit a 300. I would like to put a little cam shaft in it to so it sounds nice, any advice on mild cam sizes will be gratefully accepted. Buick motors are not too common over here, we are flooded with Chevy gear. I'm also seeking advice on the exhaust manifold, not sure if I should put a set of extractors on it ( I think you guys call them headers) I just want that little 300 to sound nice. My factory exhaust manifold has a slight crack in it, should be able to have it repaired but as I keep saying I'm open to any suggestions from you blokes who have done it all before.
As for your question, I am putting the motor into a shop to have all the work done. I always intended on doing it myself however time never seems to be available, and I do want to see this old girl running. My scope for the build is to get it as close to factory as possible and a very reliable driver that I can drive the wheels off any time I like. Lucky for me my Buick is an imported car in Australia, so no one really knows too much about them or how they were released from factory. Australian Muscle cars are a whole different story when it comes to critics ( I guess you bloke understand that with Buicks in USA)
As for wheels , suspension and brakes. I've been advised its a good idea to fit disc brakes on the front end to reduce side pull when you need to stop. My car has non factory wheels that I always planned on replacing with factory wheels. Mine are what we call "Hot Wires" however they are starting to grow on me. I really need to do some homework on wheels and tires, I don't have any other old cars and I think 15" tires are easier to purchase here than the old 14's. Time to do some tire research.
I'm also very keen to get some feedback on suspension lowering kits, and advice on who to by pars from. I don't want to go crazy, but I do believe slightly lowered cars look pretty cool. I defiantly don't want to compromise ride comfort though.
Hope you guys are all keeping safe and driving your cars as much as possible. It's the first day of Spring today, I'm hoping to have the rebuilt engine and gearbox sitting on the restored frame by the end of summer.
Marcus.
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Dear Marcus, Jim, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
My plan for the engine rebuild is to keep it as close to factory spec's as possible. I have had the engine running when I first got it home, it has either a blown head gasket or a cracked head there was water in the sump oil. So if its a non repairable cracked head I will be on this forum seeking anyone with a set of heads for sale to fit a 300.
Hopefully you won't need a new set of heads, but if so, heads for the Buick 300 shouldn't be too hard to come by.
I would like to put a little cam shaft in it to so it sounds nice, any advice on mild cam sizes will be gratefully accepted. Buick motors are not too common over here, we are flooded with Chevy gear.
Do you have a copy of the TA-Performance catalog? You can download a copy on their website, although it is nice to have a paper copy to flip though.
http://www.taperformance.com/ (http://www.taperformance.com/)
There is a good overview of camshaft choices. My car has a camshaft profile close to the Buick design for the Stage-1 big blocks. According to the catalog, they can make a Stage-1 camshaft for the Buick 300. However, I don't know of anybody who has tried that camshaft on this engine. There is a further issue in that my car has electronic fuel injection that further smooths out the idle. On the other hand, the Stage-1 option was available from the Buick factory. So even with a carburetor, Stage-1 engines were practical back in the day.
Does anyone else have thoughts on camshafts for the 300?
I'm also seeking advice on the exhaust manifold, not sure if I should put a set of extractors on it ( I think you guys call them headers) I just want that little 300 to sound nice. My factory exhaust manifold has a slight crack in it, should be able to have it repaired but as I keep saying I'm open to any suggestions from you blokes who have done it all before.
Is anybody running headers on a Buick 300? A quick web search shows that there are some headers for the Buick 340 that might fit on the 300. Here is an example:
https://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-system/headers/headers-by-engine/buick/buick-340/ (https://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-system/headers/headers-by-engine/buick/buick-340/)
There is a shop on eBay that claims to have headers that will fit on a Buick 300 starting as far back as 1964:
https://www.ebay.com/i/271015843008 (https://www.ebay.com/i/271015843008)
Does anybody around here know if these headers will fit the 300 without clearance problems?
As for your question, I am putting the motor into a shop to have all the work done. I always intended on doing it myself however time never seems to be available, and I do want to see this old girl running. My scope for the build is to get it as close to factory as possible and a very reliable driver that I can drive the wheels off any time I like. Lucky for me my Buick is an imported car in Australia, so no one really knows too much about them or how they were released from factory. Australian Muscle cars are a whole different story when it comes to critics ( I guess you bloke understand that with Buicks in USA)
I understand your situation. Do you have access to a shop with experience with classic car engines? Buick engines need to be put together with a little extra care. Buick was a luxury car line and their equipment was built to higher standards because that was what their clientele expected.
As for wheels , suspension and brakes. I've been advised its a good idea to fit disc brakes on the front end to reduce side pull when you need to stop. My car has non factory wheels that I always planned on replacing with factory wheels. Mine are what we call "Hot Wires" however they are starting to grow on me. I really need to do some homework on wheels and tires, I don't have any other old cars and I think 15" tires are easier to purchase here than the old 14's. Time to do some tire research.
15" wheels will give many brake and suspension choices.
There are many tire choices for 15" wheels and many choices for 15" wheels. Not only will your choices effect the performance of your car but will make a dramatic statement about how the car appears. It is possible to make the car look very close to how it came off the factory. However, you might want to dress the car up a bit without sacrificing period originality. My car has replica Buick rally wheels and 1" white wall tires. The combination is quintessential mid-1960s, but very classy. Everybody is different, and probably the best thing for you to do is look at how other guys have done up their car.
I'm also very keen to get some feedback on suspension lowering kits
Someone else will have answer this question for you. My goal was to create a tow vehicle so I had different suspension needs.
Hope you guys are all keeping safe and driving your cars as much as possible. It's the first day of Spring today, I'm hoping to have the rebuilt engine and gearbox sitting on the restored frame by the end of summer.
Yes indeed, down under it is spring! Here the driving season is starting to wind down depending on one's latitude.
Best of luck on your ongoing restoration! :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Edouard and other Buick lovers,
Mate thanks for help it was exactly what I was after, I'm a bit time poor at the moment and cannot give a detailed response.
Heads are off the block and initial inspection looks like it was just the gaskets, I'm about to email TA and get the ball rolling on replacement components.
Again thanks for pointing me towards TA and Century, that was what I was after rather thann individual searches on ebay. It makes it tough trying to build a car that nobody really knows anything about ( Me included).
I will respond in detail soon with my findings, oh one last thing. My auto is booked in for the 28th of this month for a full rebuild, I've found a shop in my home town who specialize in old 2 speeds, ST300 and power glides so that makes things easy.
Regards Marcus
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Hey Marcus,
Crower offers camshafts for the 300-340. They have been popular with guys building the 300. Their downloadable catalog has excellent recommendations for desired performance levels of the 300.
The best cam for your combo will depend on several factors. Compression ratio, intake/exhaust system mods, transmission and rear gear ratio, your desired rpm range, and even the octane of the fuel you will be using are the more important factors.
Comparing specs between the T/A and Crower, the Stage 1 cam is on the big side for a 300. Next one down is the TA 112 which is close to the Crower 'Level 3 cam'. Your description seems a better match for a slightly smaller cam such as the 'Level 2', maybe even the 340 cam.
I have seen Crower 300 cam recommendations over on V8Buick. Here's a thread on building the 300:
http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/a-guide-to-building-the-lil-guy-the-mighty-300.191151/ (http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/a-guide-to-building-the-lil-guy-the-mighty-300.191151/)
V8 board member Jim Blackwood is real sharp on building a Buick 300. It's a popular engine to swap into a MG. There are several Brit forums which have a great deal of tips for the 300 as the engine evolved into the Rover V8.
Full length headers were once made by Poston Enterprises, but they went out of business long ago.
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Dear Marus, Walt, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks for jumping in Walt! I was definitely feeling over my head! As hoped, you had much better advice than I could ever provide.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Edouard, Walt, Jim and All Buick Lovers.
I've got my frame stripped and painted, really happy with the result. No damage that needed repair on the frame, I did notice one slight buckle in the steel in the front RHS chassis rail, I have no idea how it happened or if it will need to be reshaped to get the bumper bolted back on. please take a look at the photo and comment, I guess I should have had a go at trying to reshape it prior to paint.
I've made the decision to go for 15" wheels to cater for the disc brake front end, any suggestions who to buy the kit required will be appreciated, I've been looking on eBay however haven't purchased any thing at this stage. Engine and transmission are still in the shop, moving along slowly. the block will require machining, its been hot at some stage and scored the bore, I guess that's to be expected.
Hope you enjoy the photos.
Marcus
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Painted
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Very nice, Marcus.
Dan
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Looking good Marcus!!
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Dear Marcus, Dan, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I've got my frame stripped and painted, really happy with the result.
. . . .
Thanks for sharing! Definitely nice to see the progress!
I've made the decision to go for 15" wheels to cater for the disc brake front end, any suggestions who to buy the kit required will be appreciated,
. . . .
You might want to start a separate thread to see what others on this board have done. I don't know how many companies make such conversion kits, but this search on Summit Racing is already a bit overwhelming:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/disc-brake-kits/year/1965/make/buick/model/skylark (https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/disc-brake-kits/year/1965/make/buick/model/skylark)
My wagon had disc brakes from two vendors installed 8 years apart. As I believe I mentioned, the front disc brakes are SSBC:
https://ssbc-usa.com/ (https://ssbc-usa.com/)
They are sized for 14" wheels because that is what the car had at the time. Given my goal of towing a heavy travel trailer, these brakes will have to be upgraded some day.
The rear disc brakes came with the Currie Enterprises Ford 9" rear end and are from Wilwood:
https://www.wilwood.com/ (https://www.wilwood.com/)
That is certainly a conservative choice if more expensive.
Opinions mid-60s Buick lovers? . . . .
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Mid 60's Buick Fans
I'm still patiently waiting for my next parts order to get here expected delivery January 10.
Started cleaning my diff ready for paint, bearings and seals.
Still can just make out factory marking on the diff housing. Not really sure what it was, I'm guessing L something with a black underline.
Cheers Marcus
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Pic of housing
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Looks like you are making progress?
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Dear Marcus, Jim, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I'm still patiently waiting for my next parts order to get here expected delivery January 10.
Sorry to hear that deliveries are sluggish to Australia, but considering all we are going though, I'm glad that the parts are headed your way!
Started cleaning my diff ready for paint, bearings and seals.
Still can just make out factory marking on the diff housing. Not really sure what it was, I'm guessing L something with a black underline.
I'm glad that you are making progress on what is the start of the springtime car work season down under. Please do keep us posted!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Jim, Edouard and other Readers,
Sometimes long lead times on parts can be good, it gives me a chance to catch up on where I need to be when they arrive. Luckily there is an importer here in my home town who ships a container over from the US around every 6-8 weeks. He charges by the cubic meter so weight doesn't matter, handy when its a disc brake conversion kit, or a car. My Skylark made its way to Australia through the same guy. I do admire how fast freight moves in the US. I ordered parts from Summit (the order I'm waiting on) and they were in California two days later with free shipping. The importer I use has a warehouse in California. Australian postal system is not as efficient, I sent my steering drag link to a guy in a neighbouring state 300 miles away for repair. He received it in 5 working days and completed the repair in two days and posted it back to me. Two weeks later its finally arrived home, after travelling about 2500 miles across three states the wrong direction to South Australia. I guess I should be happy it made its way home.
While I'm on my diff (perhaps I'm in the wrong forum here) has anyone had to seal where the axel tubes fix to the center housing? looking at old photos mine had a weep. I would hate to think of the machining required to drill out the welds and unscrew the axel tubes to reseal them. Perhaps they can be sealed from the outside, being a plumber in another life I don't like sealing anything from the outside.
Spring time sure is here with anger, last week we had 5 days straight of 40 degrees ( that's 104 for you guys) I cant wait for summer.... Its almost too hot to work in my shed, we don't get snow here. I almost prefer to get work done in the winter, its just the daylight hours are a bit short.
Marcus
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While I'm on my diff (perhaps I'm in the wrong forum here) has anyone had to seal where the axel tubes fix to the center housing? looking at old photos mine had a weep. I would hate to think of the machining required to drill out the welds and unscrew the axel tubes to reseal them. Perhaps they can be sealed from the outside, being a plumber in another life I don't like sealing anything from the outside.
Marcus
Marcus,
That's common for gear lube to seep at the point where the axle tubes enter the cast housing. I've had two different differentials Heli-arced to weld the cast housing and steel axle tubes together. If the gear set is left in the housing, you must be careful about where the ground clamp is attached. If the ground for welding is too close to the bearings, or flows across the cast iron housing ,the electricity from the arc will score the bearings. So the ground clamp needs to be positioned to draw the electricity away from the bearings.
Loren
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Thanks for you advise Loren.
I pushed the suspension bushes out yesterday with a home made tool.
Marcus
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Thanks for you advise Loren.
I pushed the suspension bushes out yesterday with a home made tool.
Marcus
You are welcome Marcus. You are quite inventive. I too have made tools when I wasn't able to get ahold of a factory made one.
Keep up the great work and the posts,
Loren
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Marcus,
I admire your perseverance, I get impatient waiting on parts traveling 90 miles. You are making great progress.
I made a similar tool for removing the bushings from the axle ears. I then made one for pressing the bushings into the control arms.
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Thanks Kevin and Loren,
After seeing your support bracing for the rear control arms Kevin I'm wishing I did the same thing. My front lower and all rear control arms have been in a workshop for 3 weeks waiting on "time" to get the new bushes and ball joints pressed in, the get it done before Christmas rush is on and I made the mistake of saying "I'm in no real rush".
Patience is a good skill I guess when taking on such a project.
Marcus
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Hi 65 Buick Team,
I think the shipping and air freight distance between Australia and USA has increased. I'm still waiting on parts, however after looking through other posts today I keep seeing the word patience coming up....so I guess I will be patient.
Quick update from the Land Down Under, My auto transmission is complete ( just waiting on cross member mount)
Engine components have been machined and ready for assembly.
Interior has been ordered.
Take care
Marcus
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Engine block machined .03 over
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New pistons on old rods
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Good progress Marcus. Nice work and I can feel the excitement building! Keep the updates coming...
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Marcus , That was one of the funnest parts of the build is assembling the engine . Looks good , have fun .
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Dear Marcus, Chuck, John, and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Nice to see the progress Marcus! :icon_thumright:
I think the shipping and air freight distance between Australia and USA has increased. I'm still waiting on parts, however after looking through other posts today I keep seeing the word patience coming up....so I guess I will be patient.
Alas indeed patience is something we all need when caring for a classic car. I suspect that COVID has disupted all transportation, so your delays could be due to that. It is something we all will have to live with I'm afraid.
Thanks again for the update! Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Team,
Well its been a very exciting week here with the Down Under Restoration, however kind of two steps forward and one back scenario . My parts order arrived from USA!. The order included dick brake conversions, coil springs, exhaust headers and a few other odds and ends. I also received another order I had sent over with air freight containing rear axel bearings and seals. This one was frustrating, I took the axels to a shop to press off the old bearings and check if he could get replacements in AUS. A week later I went back and was told "no cannot get them here need to order from USA" so I made an order, paid for freight........wrong bearings arrived. In frustration I went to a local bearing supplier and hey presto got replacements ( all be it another $250 AUD)
The coil springs I ordered are incorrect, the rears have a smaller diameter coil at the top where it seats against the recess in the frame, and the fronts have a different alignment where the coils end meaning one end will clock into position and one will not. The old front springs when you look along the length of the spring the ends of the coil overlap by about 3/4", the new ones are flush with no overlap.
Anyway I'm still happy to new shiny brakes and spindles, hopefully someone here has had similar problems and found a solution or I will get some support from the suppliers I purchased through.
Engine is also in the rebuild shop as I type....
Have a good weekend
Marcus
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front springs
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Very expensive bearings
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Something shiny to finish off with
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Thanks for the update!
Well its been a very exciting week here with the Down Under Restoration, however kind of two steps forward and one back scenario . My parts order arrived from USA!.
. . . . .
Glad this finally made it across the Pacific!
The order included . . . exhaust headers
So which headers did you finally settle on?
This one was frustrating, I took the axels to a shop to press off the old bearings and check if he could get replacements in AUS. A week later I went back and was told "no cannot get them here need to order from USA" so I made an order, paid for freight........wrong bearings arrived. In frustration I went to a local bearing supplier and hey presto got replacements ( all be it another $250 AUD)
Sorry about this hassle, but at least you were to solve this problem without another order to the USA.
The coil springs I ordered are incorrect, the rears have a smaller diameter coil at the top where it seats against the recess in the frame, and the fronts have a different alignment where the coils end meaning one end will clock into position and one will not. The old front springs when you look along the length of the spring the ends of the coil overlap by about 3/4", the new ones are flush with no overlap.
I don't now if you can solve this problem locally, but if not, there are sources in the United States that are highly recommended. Hopefully someone else will chime in with a recommendation.
Engine is also in the rebuild shop as I type....
Good to hear! Thanks for the updates and photos! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks for the update Marcus. The new brake hardware is looking really good and will certainly add to the stopping power and drivability of the car. I hate it when I have to backtrack or delay work due to wrong parts. And how frustrating it must be to deal with suppliers that are a world away. Keep plugging...you have the right attitude!
I see the bearings are from CARS. Which company supplied the springs?
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hi Chuck,
Springs were ordered through Summit Racing.
We have been playing email tag today, it's a bit hard with the different time zones. Think I might just get up early on Tuesday and give them a call.
Thanks for comments and support.
Marcus.
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You may want to try Laura at ESPO Springs n Things. Several of us have had positive experiences there on springs front end kits, etc. Even custom + or - springs. Nice to see your progress on the car!
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The rear ones you have are later rear springs, 68/72. If the diameter of the two are the same and the new one is longer than the original, cut off the new one. I have found new springs made my 66 ride two high in the rear and had to cut a coil off the new ones, should have ordered a softer spring.
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Dear Chuck, Marcus, Jim, Bill, and mid-60s Buick parts hounds,
You may want to try Laura at ESPO Springs n Things. Several of us have had positive experiences there on springs front end kits, etc. Even custom + or - springs. Nice to see your progress on the car!
Here is the website for ESPO Springs n Things:
https://www.springsnthings.com/ (https://www.springsnthings.com/)
That might save you some searching.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Jim Cuck and other readers,
Good news from Australia with this post. I got in touch with Laura at Espo Springs n Things. She was very helpful, gave me technical advice on the front springs I have, turns out they were suitable for my ride, slightly heavier and will sit 1/8"or so lower. See how it looks when all together. I purchased a new set of rear springs from Laura on 25th March and they arrived here on Friday. That's the quickest delivery I had.
Steering and front suspension is more or less complete, hope to have the diff in next week ready for drive train. Had a little set back with the motor, two cylinders had unusual discoloration (signs of corrosion)after machining. It was fairly minor but different to the standard corrosion around the top of piston you get when they have been sitting full of water. The block is back in the shop having two sleeve' s fitted. I was suspect it could be corrosion from the water jacket working in towards the cylinder bore. Nothing a sleeve or two won't fix.
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New brakes
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Looking good Marcus! Glad that Laura got correct springs to you. That company has been on our preferred supplier list for a long time.
Here's hoping you get your engine issues resolved with a minimum of difficulty.
Everything looks great. You're going to have one of the top Buicks in Oz when completed!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hi Guys,
I'm after some help with my rear springs.
When I pulled the Skylark down it had spacers under the rear springs.
I've put them back in but just doesn't seem right. The shock absorbers are about 2 inches short at full extension, hand brake cables about 4 inches to long and brake line can't locate on frame.
Did Skylark have this spacer?
Thanks in advance
Marcus.
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Those are a non stock modifcation! The spring should sit directly on mount!
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Looks like someone was compensating for sagging springs that had taken a set without replacing them.
The new springs look good!!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Thanks, so it's just the spring directly onto the mounting bracket with the "spring retainer /washer " over the top of the bottom coil with a shorter bolt to fix it in place?
Marcus.
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Yes! Back in the day guys would put lesabre springs in to get a tall height and also use the shocks or air shocks! My one gs had this setup when I got it! Gave the car the 60’s -70’s jacked up look!
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Thanks, that makes sense.
Mine had air shocks in it.
I spoke to the widow of previous owner, she told me he used to get around with a bag of sand in the trunk to make it ride better.
I'm looking forward to getting those spacers out....it wasn't overly easy getting them in. You just gotta love these little hidden secrets.
Time to get back to work.
Regards.
Marcus
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It sure was easier fitting the springs without the spacers.
Thanks for the help.
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Looks great Marcus. Keep up the good work and sending pictures!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Your making great progress! Marcus! Keep the pictures coming and questions to!!
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Hi John, Chuck and others.
More questions for you blokes.
After fitting the diff up, I'm concerned I haven't left enough slack in the braided hose lines.
LHS sits just clear of the shock absorber, I watched a video on YouTube where it was advised to leave enough slack to clear shock and allow for callipar movement.
I think I will pull it out, cut and re weld brackets 1/2" further from diff centre, should be able to squeeze a extra 1/2" out of new tube lines and hook them back up. Won't take too much while it's like this.
Any thoughts?
Thanks Marcus.
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Rear view
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New front brake lines in, little adjustment needed where the RHS line connects to distribution block, easy enough.
Tilly"s eyes have that Spooky look again with the flash.
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Tail shaft balanced and painted, new universal joints fitted.
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Hard to tell from photo but, can you have too muck slack in the E brake cable?
-
Getting cold in Aus, this little beauty keeps me warm.
Sorry about typo in message above, should have read " Too much slack"
Hope you enjoy the photos, and thanks for all the help.
Bed time for me,
Marcus
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Very nice. Lookin’ very good. Thanks for the updates.
Dan
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Nice progress!!
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Marcus,
Very nice, your restoration is so impressive. I’m falling behind, I need the fireplace and dog to recalibrate my focus.
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Hi Guys,
The Downunder restoration is progressing. We think its cold here, this morning we are experiencing an "Antarctic blast" 28 degrees F in your units. I was looking at a post recently and noticed thick snow on the ground and realized its not cold here at all when you see that thick white stuff on the ground.
The Engine rebuild is dragging on but is in the assembly stage, I'm hoping to get it home in the next week or so....its only been 9 months.
I'm after some shopping advice from those who can help, I have looked at a few catalogues and know what I need, however after the great advice I received when buying springs thought I would call for help first.
I'm after, radiator hose kit, Radiator support bushes ( think you guys call it a core support) Body mount bushing kit, Rallye wheels (15"x 7" any thoughts I'm guessing Wheels Vintiques) and complete Wiring harnesses.
I've relocated the brake line brackets on the diff to give the clearance needed on the shock absorbers. Had to make up new tube brake lines as well, couldn't quite stretch the original ones I made enough to fit. Also have the steering box restored and back in, and am cleaning up the radiator support panel ready for paint.
Thanks In advance
Marcus
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
The Downunder restoration is progressing. We think its cold here, this morning we are experiencing an "Antarctic blast" 28 degrees F in your units. I was looking at a post recently and noticed thick snow on the ground and realized its not cold here at all when you see that thick white stuff on the ?ground.
Wow! That's really cold! I hope you have clothing to cope with it.
The Engine rebuild is dragging on but is in the assembly stage, I'm hoping to get it home in the next week or so....its only been 9 months.
I don't know why, but engine rebuilds take forever. It appears to be some sort of curious tradition.
I'm after . . . . Rallye wheels (15"x 7" any thoughts I'm guessing Wheels Vintiques)
I can't help you with most of your questions, but I can affirm that Wheel Vintiques is a safe choice for the Rally wheels. They definitely look great on my trusty wagon!
Thanks for the update!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Marcus, considering where you are located I would say that your build is going well, but the 28 degree weather is not something I like. It was 93 degrees here in New York City yesterday and I don't like that either. The 60s to the mid 80s is my type of "work on the Buick weather" I can help you with a few of those Items that you need for your build. The Radiator hoses can come from Centerville Auto Repair in Grass Valley CA @ www.centervilleautorepair.com (http://www.centervilleautorepair.com) Russell is the owner and is a wealth of information regarding nailhead motors. I agree with Edouard about the Wheel Vintiques Chrome road wheels. I just put a set on my GS convertible and they look great and are really made well right here in the USA. For the Wiring Harness I would go with M & H electrical fabricators at www.wiringharness.com (http://www.wiringharness.com) And the rest of the items OPGI will have.
Your doing a great work on your build, Keep posting !
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi Tony, Edouard and other readers,
Thanks for your comments, I will send some emails today and get the ball rolling.
It makes such a difference when it comes to purchasing parts from another country, when you can get a little local advice.
I will keep you posted on my progress.......engine still in workshop...
Marcus
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Hi Fellas,
It took a while, my engine is back in my shed after 12 months in the workshop for the rebuild. I?m hoping on getting it painted tomorrow. I?m not sure if I should paint the timing cover, water pump and AC/ alternator bracket. Looking at photos I see its common to paint them, think I will do the same.
I have a question regarding the exhaust manifold valve. I?m using headers on my engine. My factory exhaust had a crack where the exhaust valve sits, someone has attempted to repair with exhaust putty that didn?t work. Exhaust valves are not common here, I?ve never seen one before, we don?t experience winter freeze. From what I can see the valve is passive and relies on temperature to activate the bi-metal thermostat to operate. If I remove the valve will it have any additional effect on the engine? I?ve had my headers ceramic coated, they claim to reduce radiant heat by 40%, hope this is correct as the coating cost as much as the headers. Given we don?t experience absolute freezing conditions here I?m hoping the valve will not be required, it might just take a little longer to warm up in winter I can live with that.
My wheels, interior, radiator hoses ect are on their way, I?ve been working on the wiring I need.
I?ve attached two photos, a dry fit of exhaust, starter and alternator and the frame on wheels.
Regards
Marcus
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Hi Marcus,
Good progress after a long wait. Regarding the exhaust valve, here we call it a heat riser valve and wish that they had never been installed on these cars. They chronically fail closed, causing abnormal backpressure in the exhaust stream on that side and eventually causing problems in the engine. If you can install your headers without it (I assume using custom exhaust pipes), I'd recommend that approach. You can't buy replacements, so to use factory manifolds and exhaust, some either make a spacer to replace the heat riser or either pin the internal flapper open or remove the flapper from inside the valve.
Lookin' good...keep us posted!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hi Guys,
Chuck thanks for your help with the exhaust valve. I'm guessing mine was like most and failed in the closed position leading to the cracked exhaust manifold.
I managed to get the engine painted yesterday. I'm very happy with the result, time consuming but worth it. Tilly's eyes reflected in one of the photos so I thought I would put it in.
Apologies' for all the question marks instead of commas in my last post. note sure how that happened, might get confused in translation into Northern Hemisphere....
Marcus
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Nice job with 65 Buick green! And Tilly just adds more color....
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Dear Marcus, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick lovers of "nailhead" green!
I managed to get the engine painted yesterday. I'm very happy with the result, time consuming but worth it.
. . . .
Thanks for sharing! My poor wagon ended up with her engine painted chevy blue not once but twice! So I can never get enough pictures of engines painted that beautiful "nailhead" green! :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Readers,
While I haven't posted for a while I'm still making progress with my Skylark build. Last week I had an exhaust system fitted, I hope I haven't gone too big for the little 300. Its now got a twin 2-1/4" system with some nice shinny 2-1/2" stainless steel tips. I refitted the shell for the exhaust fitting just to make sure it all fitted in properly. I have the shell off again now to finish off the mechanical system, its very close to starting now. All that's left is to apply sealant and fit the exhaust headers ( I had them on as dry fit for the exhaust) Fit the alternator and power steering pump, fit the radiator support and radiator, distributer and plug leads. I have all the parts required either brand new or reconditioned, just need to get it all together, Oh and then some wiring so I can start it up. I had a few minor problems, I slightly cross threaded one of the automatic transmission cooling lines where it fixes to the brass coupling that's screwed into the auto trans. I tried to buy a replacement coupling here and found one very close however it had a male tapered thread instead of the parallel thread where it screws into the auto. The damage on brass fitting was minimal so I managed to clean it up for reuse. My fittings hadn't been removed from the gearbox during the rebuild and I'm guessing have been there since factory. When I applied thread sealant to the parallel male thread and screwed it back into the auto most of the screwing I could do with my fingers then I used a spanner to tighten the few remaining threads, as the brass washer started to compress against fitting and auto the thread didn't take up, it was firm however I knew the thread was stripped. At this point I walked away, Im sure it will be ok and will seal.....It was just one of those moments. I'm thinking it could have possibly been stripped from Factory, who knows.
Hope you enjoy the photos.
Marcus
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Few progress shots
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Stainless steel tips
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Might help if I attach the photo....
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Very nice progress.
Dan
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Looking really good Marcus! The stainless tips look like an attractive addition.
Is the body coming back off the chassis to prep it for paint? Going on a rotisserie?
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Coming together very nicely!
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Dear Marcus, Dan, Chuck, Jim, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
While I haven't posted for a while I'm still making progress with my Skylark build.
Thanks for the update! Nice to see the progress!
Last week I had an exhaust system fitted, I hope I haven't gone too big for the little 300. Its now got a twin 2-1/4" system with some nice shinny 2-1/2" stainless steel tips.
. . . .
It all looks very nice! I also went with stainless steel exhaust tips on my trusty wagon. It does take some extra effort to keep them clean and shiny but the look is well worth it!
Let me toss the question to everyone else in 65GS.com. Is there any harm in an oversized exhaust system? It will certainly reduce the back-pressure on the engine which will improve performance and efficiency. The only downside I can think of is potentially excessive noise. It should be possible to deal with this by changing mufflers and/or adding resonators.
Thanks again for the update!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Looking good Marcus . Keep up the good work and thanks for the updates .
Ive been looking at getting exhaust here also . Price sure has gone up since i last had a system made . Back in my younger days id a just thrown on some straight pipes and a pair thrush mufflers and called er good . OH and ya can't forget to put the sticker in the quarter glass !
:laughing7:
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Looks great Marcus, The exhaust with those tips looks really good. Keep posting photos..
Tony
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Hi Fellas,
Thank you all for the comments,
Yes Chuck, the body has been removed (again) and I'm hoping will be in the shop early in the New Year for restoration and paint. I have both, a wheeled frame, and a rotisserie. The frame is handy to work on the firewall and tail light section.
Edouard, I spoke with the exhaust installer. He didn't think it would be too noisy, I told him I intend plenty of driving when I'm finished and didn't want an ear deafening drone as I go down the highway. Your correct I can always add additional mufflers if required.
I like those "Thrush" stickers might have to get some, even though I've got Lucas mufflers on. It cost me $1250 AUD for the exhaust, I restored the hanging brackets before it went in and purchased the SS tips from an engineering shop for $80.
Today I ordered my wheels from Wheels Vintiques, I've attempted to order previously but it didn't happen for some reason... I've ordered the 15 x 7" Buick ralley wheels (Part number 57-573404) and Buick center caps, I don't think the caps I have ordered are correct, (part number 2023) however they are available and no one here will know any different. I don't expect to see them for 12 months, shipping is v e r y s l o w at the moment, my interior was dispatched in late August and still no sign of it yet, but hey I cannot change that.
Again thanks for comments and I will continue with my unique build here in Australia.
Thanks
Marcus
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Marcus,
You are doing a fantastic job with the restoration. It's nice to see that you are moving along on it. I can't imagine having to deal with how much time it takes to get the parts.
Should you have a leak on the transmission fitting, I have good original parts. I have parted a couple of ST300 transmissions over the years and kept the internals, just in case someone needed parts.
Loren
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Hi Loren and other Readers,
I'm quietly confident the cooling line will seal off as required, its the female thread within the aluminum bellhousing I'm suspicious of. If it leaks it might me a helicoil or similar for repair, lets hope we don't have to go there.
However while we are talking spares for the ST300, I am on the hunt for what I believe is a nylon bush on the gear linkage, from memory there are two, I have one that's in good condition and one fell apart in my hands when I dismantled. I will get a photo and post it soon.
If you or someone else has one my next problem will be getting it, as USPS have currently suspended all mail deliveries to AUS. With that said there are freight companies who still transport it just costs more $$$.
Yesterday I sealed the LHS exhaust header to the head and bolted the power steering pump into position, sure feels good to know / hope its not coming off again.
Thanks again,
Marcus
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Had not got a chance to read post and look at pictures! Coming along nicely! It is so rewarding to see a car your working on get back together and start looking like a car and not a pile of parts! Keep up the work and keep the questions and pictures coming! :headbang:
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Hi Readers,
I am very Happy Little Aussie, My interior arrived from Legendary yesterday.
Dan your parcel also arrived, I haven't had a chance to open the boxes and have a look as driving my kids to after school sports took precedence yesterday, but what a relief to get them here.
Seeing the boxes made me realize I've been a bit lazy ordering addition parts I need, I think its easy to fall into a trap of waiting for a delivery before making the next order. For me it was a 13 month process from placing an order to receiving the goods.
I will put a post up on parts wanted however I will be on the hunt for AC lines for my Skylark. The guy I bought my car off cut them out with a grinder before I got it as he didn't want the AC? every car in Australia needs AC.
My motor is fully assembled, hoping to have it fired up very soon...watch this space.
regards
Marcus
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Good to hear you are making progress, even if it is getting those long awaited parts. Family always should come first. Those children grow up so quickly. Treasure the time you have now with them.
Loren
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Dear Marcus, Loren, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . .
I will put a post up on parts wanted however I will be on the hunt for AC lines for my Skylark. The guy I bought my car off cut them out with a grinder before I got it as he didn't want the AC? every car in Australia needs AC.
Every now and then there is someone restoring a Buick who insists on removing the air conditioning. I suppose if you are making a dedicated drag racer and never expect to drive the car beyond getting to the track and back - the extra sweating is "worth it." However, my trusty wagon didn't have air conditioning. In the 1970s and 80s Northern California was more temperate and as a young person I guess you can put up with a lot. However, today I wouldn't dream of living without air conditioning and I'm oh so call I endured the expense and personal effort to install a Vintage Air system as part of Biquette's drive-train upgrade.
If you actually intend to drive the car - not just race it - you need air conditioning! Only folks in extreme latitudes might not need it and climate change is pushing those locations further and further north!
Thanks for the update Marcus!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Buick Fans,
The 300 fired up first crank, video attached of second start.
Enjoy,
Marcus.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=be1ekqRjBxk&feature=share
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Feels great doesn't it? And the quality of restoration is top notch. Well done!
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Dear Marcus, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
The 300 fired up first crank, video attached of second start.
Congratulations Marcus! Another important milestone! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard
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Hi Fellas,
Hope you are all well, Im stuck inside with a head cold.....things could be worse.
So I'm doing some on line shopping for the next stage in the rebuild. Yesterday I completed my wiring order with M&H so that's underway.
Today I'm looking a buying a new gas tank and sender unit. Like most things, there seems to be plenty of vendors with a variety of materials and tank sizes. So here I am again reaching out to you guys for a direction on where to buy a gas tank?, to ensure when it makes its way over here its correct.
Last week my new body mounts arrived and the front end sheet metal kit. The body mount kit didn't come with the "biscuits" that go over the rear wheels, I dont think that will be a problem I can bolt a mount in place. Also the two smaller size mounts under the front seats didn't come in the kit , they are all the same size . I'm not overly worried, I haven't had a good look yet but I know I will come up with a work around.
Marcus
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Just did my mounts 2 weeks ago. Under the seats were the same size mounts for me, only the bolts were shorter. My kit came with the "biscuits" for over the rear wheels.
Purchased my kit from Ames Pontiac Parts
The fuel tank and sending unit, I've read good reviews about Spectra.
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Today I'm looking a buying a new gas tank and sender unit. Like most things, there seems to be plenty of vendors with a variety of materials and tank sizes. So here I am again reaching out to you guys for a direction on where to buy a gas tank?, to ensure when it makes its way over here its correct.
Hi Marcus,
I installed a Spectra Premium tank PN GM37J. It fit under the body perfectly. And I'm sure the 300 CID V8 uses the same fuel tank as the GS. For the fuel sender, I believe you'd want Spectra Premium PN FG88A, which has 5/16" hose bib and no return line, so not for use with an air conditioned car. I don't recall that your car has A/C. Mine does, so i needed a different sender with a return line, but the tank is the same either way.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Ditto, ditto.
I’ve used Spectra on two recent restorations, nice fit, looks original.
Amazon has the best price.
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....
The body mount kit didn't come with the "biscuits" that go over the rear wheels, I don't think that will be a problem I can bolt a mount in place. Also the two smaller size mounts under the front seats didn't come in the kit , they are all the same size .
....
The ones over the rear wheels aren't bolted in. They are usually referred to as 'pucks'. You can use the donut ones that came in the kit, they will fit.
Under the doors, I believe, are like the others but the frame hole is a smaller diameter. Just trim the mount to fit.
Buicks use two extra mounts at the cowl, 4 vs 2 for say, a Chevelle. Therefore a mount kit for a convertible should be purchased, they include the 2 extras. Some venders sell an add-on kit with the 2 mounts.
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Hi Fellas ,
Thanks for your help.
I had a better look at my mounts yesterday, a puck sounds so much better than a biscuit. I've attached a photo of my puck compared to the donut that is part of the new kit, and can see they are the same thickness. I've noticed on my shell where the pucks go there are cage nuts to take a mount bolt. I assumed it was one of the differences between a GS and a Skylark, either way I'm happy there. I can also see the mounts under the seats are smaller and can be trimmed down to fit.
As for the gas tank, now I have a place to shop ( Spectra ) I can get the ball rolling, my car has AC and a return fuel line, so I'm sure with these details I can order the correct tank for my build.
Thanks again Jim Walt and Chuck, you have made things much easier for me.
Regards
Marcus
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Hi Marcus,
I didn't recall that your Skylark has A/C. The sending unit I installed on the GS was Spectra PN FG88E. It's not the same as stock as it has a 3/8" output instead of the 5/16" on the original car. I couldn't find a sender with the return line setup with 5/16" output, so went with the larger size. That additional fuel volume capability isn't needed, but won't hurt either.
Chuck
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Hi Guys,
It's been a while, thanks for your help with the fuel tank Chuck.
We had a cold winter here, I didn't get much physical work done on my Skylark but ready to go again now it's warming up.
As always, I have a few questions....
First one, Wheels Vintiques advised today they are having trouble sourcing material to manufacture the Ralley wheels I have ordered; my order is 12 months old now. They suggested I purchase SS1 Oldsmobile wheels. Apparently, the offset is 3/8" less, and I don't Know if I can get the Buick stickers to place on the center caps. I've had a look at the Olds wheels and can see they are very similar, I do want Buick center caps though, and I'm not sure of the offset. Was wondering if anyone here can offer advice? I still have the option to wait for material supply, however there are no guarantees.
Second one, my wiring harnesses arrived this week from M&H, it all looks nice. I noticed the rear harness has a round wire compared to the original flat harness. I assume it will tuck in under the carpet and never be noticed, just wanted to check if anyone has used a round wire instead of the flat original that sits in the floor recess?
Third one, I received my new windscreen recently, the auto glazier advised I need rubbers for the front and rear glass. Can anyone point me in the right direction where to buy the rubber seals for front and rear glass?
I'm still waiting my turn to get in the paint shop, but it will come around
Until next time Guys
Regards
Marcus
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Hi Marcus, good to hear from you again!
As for the windshield install, our cars don't use a rubber gasket or the newer style urethane sealant, they use a butyl tape. It's a tacky square chaulk which comes in a roll. It is rolled out and applied to the windshield channel, and then the glass is laid into place on top of it. Do a search for 'butyl windshield tape' for sources and additional info. The replacement windshield may be thinner than the original, which would require a thicker tape to maintain the correct installed height.
I don't recall if a primer is used on the channel before applying the tape?
Urethane adhesive could be used to install the windshield, I'll bet most shops just do it this way as it's more familiar to them than the older butyl tape method.
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Dear Marcus, Walt and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
We had a cold winter here, I didn't get much physical work done on my Skylark but ready to go again now it's warming up.
Glad to hear that you are getting more favorable conditions to resume work!
First one, Wheels Vintiques advised today they are having trouble sourcing material to manufacture the Ralley wheels I have ordered; my order is 12 months old now.
Hmm, that's actually a bit ominous. I wouldn't expect that these rally wheels are made of particularly exotic materials, so I wonder what they are having difficulty obtaining. I get the feeling that the new buzz-phrase "supply chain" still hasn't come close to recovering from COVID.
They suggested I purchase SS1 Oldsmobile wheels. Apparently, the offset is 3/8" less, and I don't Know if I can get the Buick stickers to place on the center caps. I've had a look at the Olds wheels and can see they are very similar, I do want Buick center caps though, and I'm not sure of the offset. Was wondering if anyone here can offer advice? I still have the option to wait for material supply, however there are no guarantees.
That's a tough question in a way. I don't think that Wheel Vintiques make their reproduction rally wheels to be absolute replicas of the original wheels produced by the Detroit Auto Makers back in the day. So my guess is that the only folks who know for sure if you can swap the Buick center caps onto one of Wheel Vintiques Oldsmobile wheels is the company itself. You might try contacting them again for a clarification.
Please do keep us updated on your progress!
Edouard
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Hi Walt, Edouard and Readers,
Thanks for your help. I didn't think I needed windscreen rubbers....
I have emailed WV today to try and establish a possible material lead time and if center cap stickers can be swapped. At the end of the day my car is a few years off driving so I have some time to wait.
Regards
Marcus
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Hi Guys,
It's been a while since my last post, my build has been running a little slow since October. I'm making an effort to get back into gear.
Since my last update, The wheels I ordered have been manufactured (15 X 7 Ralley) and are on a ship to AUS, hoping to have them in the next 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately, it's only the wheels, the centre caps and wheel nuts are still on back order. I have a new gas tank (thanks for the lead Chuck it fits perfect). I found a company in Australia who supply Spectra parts, I have also bought replacement floor pans.
I started drilling and plug welding rust spots in the floor, using a block of copper under the welds to help fill holes. This worked OK, after some time I realised the floor is beyond repair, so replacement pans have been purchased. It was a funny feeling placing and order and having parts in the same week (parts were in stock!). I'm used to waiting months for a delivery.
I'm working on getting chrome parts together to be sent away for re-chroming, some parts are badly pitted I have a post in parts wanted chasing mirrors and reverse light surrounds if anyone has any.
As always, I'm in line for body work and paint.......hopefully this year.
Regards
Marcus
Hoping to be posting progress in coming months
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Thanks for the update Marcus!
Looking forward to your progress reports as they roll in!
Cheers, Edouard
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Good to see an update, Marcus. I can't imagine the patience it takes to restore a car these days, especially if you also have to deal with shipping from the US to Australia. Keep on it!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hi Marcus I was just reading your post and you mention needing reverse lights, I have a set that you can have. They need to be replated, but if you don't mind doing that you can have them. If you want I can post photos of the set. Just let me know.
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi Guys,
Its been a while, thought I would check in. My restoration has come to a bit of a halt, however still moving forwards in the shape of a new shed with plenty of clear floor space and a car hoist. The concrete has been poured, shed gets built starting October 23.
When finished it will be 26' deep, 45' long and 11' high, or (8m X 14m X 3.6m high)
Hoping to send some progress photos soon, and chase after more help and parts.
Regards
Marcus
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Congrats, Marcus! That should make working on the Skylark even more enjoyable.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Dear Marcus, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
My restoration has come to a bit of a halt, however still moving forwards in the shape of a new shed with plenty of clear floor space and a car hoist. The concrete has been poured, shed gets built starting October 23.
When finished it will be 26' deep, 45' long and 11' high, or (8m X 14m X 3.6m high)
. . .
Thanks for keeping us posted Marcus! You cannot restore a car without a place to do the work and your shed will most definitely do the trick!
Cheers, Edouard
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Hi Guys,
Im having a little boast here, my new shed is built. It sure makes the old one look small.
Waiting on an electrician to complete wiring, hoping to get the floor painted this weekend and a two-post hoist will be installed 6th November.
Looking forward to having my Skylark sitting in there while I place it all back together.
Regards
Marcus
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Really nice, Markus! So great to have space and ceiling height to accommodate a lift. Enjoy and keep us posted as the Skylark enters the new work space.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Congratulations Marcus on your new workspace!
Indeed it looks wonderful. I'm sure you'll be happy working on your Skylark in there!
Edouard
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Very nice shed, congrats!
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Looks great Markus, :thumbsup: really nice! Here in NYC your shed is considered a 3 car garage !!!
Tony
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Nice new work space! Should have plenty of space to lay things out! I could use a space like that myself!
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Hi My US Friends,
The new shed has been wired up and I'm starting to fit it out. Put the chassis up on the hoist for the first time, it works a treat.
Time to get back to work on rebuild.
Marcus
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It's great to see the chassis on the lift in your new shed. If it stays that clean and organized you'll be my hero!! :occasion14:
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Congratulations...looks great. Post more pictures when you filler up.
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Hi Buick Fans,
Had some 225/60's fitted to my rims this week.
Some new shoes for Christmas..
Marcus
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Hi Everyone,
I've started my Holidays and getting some prep work done prior paint work commencing late January.
I'm sure some of these photos will bring back some restoration memories.
One of the photos is the LHS inner guard, it has handwritten white paint with the words 300 cu" on the top.
Has anyone seen this before? is it something from factory identifying this car was to have a 300 installed?
I'm trying to work out if I restore this writing pending if it's a factory identification/ note.
Marcus
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300 cu "
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Quick correction to the above, the writing is on RHS inner guard.
I still get my driver's side and passengers side mixed up on this car, as we drive on the RHS.
Marcus
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Hello there mate,
Just finished going through your restoration thread, it is really good to see all the progress you have made. Wish I had half the energy to put into my projects as you have.
Regarding the "300 cu", I can't say I have ever seen that done. My first thought was the production date of your Skylark and if it was built along the same timeline as the Gran Sport. If so, that may have a bearing on the notation. There were some differences in the engine compartment between the Skylark and the GS. The battery is located on the right side in a Skylark, whereas the GS battery was on the left side. The horns are on the opposite sides of the battery. There are some other small details also. That said, the "300 cu" might have been done at the factory to help in assembly regarding those differences.
There are special plastic clips that go on the R/H inner fender to hold the battery positive cable in place on a Skylark. A GS does not have those clips because the battery is on the L/H side and the positive cable is routed along with the forward lighting harness. Two of the three battery tray brackets are also different between the Skylark and GS.
All that said and keeping in mind that the front clip was installed as one complete assembly at the factory, it kind of makes sense for the "300 cu" on the inner fender as a precaution to get the correct front end on the correct car. Just a thought on my part.
Loren
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Had some 225/60's fitted to my rims this week.
Some new shoes for Christmas..
Both the rims and tires look really nice! Your car is coming together very nicely!
Thanks for sharing!
Edouard
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I would like to know more about these... Loren wrote: There are special plastic clips that go on the R/H inner fender to hold the battery positive cable in place on a Skylark.
Anyone have a picture of the clips and the location?
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The clips & pics can be seen at Fusick Olds parts catalog
Tom T.
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I would like to know more about these... Loren wrote: There are special plastic clips that go on the R/H inner fender to hold the battery positive cable in place on a Skylark.
Anyone have a picture of the clips and the location?
Email sent with picture.
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This is the only plastic clip Fusick has that I could find. It is for the forward lighting harness that travels over the driver side inner fender. There is another different plastic clip that was used on Specials and Skylarks to guide the battery cable. Fusick used to have this style. I was unable to find it though on their site.
Loren
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Here is the battery cable guide clip used on the Special and Skylark. These used to be available new but I couldn't find them on the Fusick site.
There are 1/4" holes on the passenger side inner fender for two of these.
Loren
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Hi Marcus, If you need several of those clips for the passenger side fender that Loren posted, I should have at least Two that I could send to you. Just let me know.
Tony
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Hi Everyone,
Thanks for your thoughts on the 300 cu " identification on the inner guard Loren. I'm with you, I believe it's some kind of factory identification. I have decided to keep it and will try and replicate while painting is taking place. My car was built in June 1965 at the Fremont factory (Z on the identification plate)
I have attached a photo of the plastic clip that holds the wiring in place. I only have the one and it's broken where the clip penetrates the guard. Looks like there were 3 judging by the matching holes.
Tony, I will send you a PM and follow up on your offer.
Have a safe and Merry Christmas everyone.
Marcus
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Hi Marcus,
The clip in the picture you sent is the same one used on the GS and as pictured by Loren above. Apparently available from Fusick, but others here might have some also.
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Chuck
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Thanks Loren for posting the pictures of the battery cable clips. Hopefully I can find a couple in the future. The other ones used for headlight wiring harness I was able to purchase from Fusick
Update: just searched my photos from a car show last year. here's a picture of the cable clip on a 65 Skylark
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Hi Everyone, wishing you all a Happy and safe 2024.
I've started looking at AC and heater components ready to install them as soon as possible during painting.
My parts are in poor shape however not beyond repair. I thought before I even start restoring any parts I would write this post, seeking advice on anyone who has travelled this task previously. If anyone has any good conditions parts they are willing to sell, or suggestions on places I can replacement buy parts. I will need to buy a heater a core, and all AC components.
The housing of my heater box has a significant bend on the outer frame where it bolts to the firewall on the lower right-hand corner, there is a crack in the fibreglass AC housing where it bolts to the car near the inner RHS kick panel. Broken bule plastic clips on the cables connecting levers to vents, AC lines have been cut by pervious owner (hopefully Loren can help me here). I have some minor rust on the firewall where the heater bolts to the firewall around the lower right hand bolt.
On a positive note, when I move the control levers the cables all do their jobs and actuate the vents they are connected to.
Looking forward to any advice or prospective transactions for replacement parts you guys may have.
Kind Regards
Marcus
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Bend in heater housing, Tilly says Hello.
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Cut AC lines
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Marcus, I have some AC parts. i'll PM or email to begin discussion.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Marcus, I have some AC parts. i'll PM or email to begin discussion.
:cheers2:
Chuck
Hi Chuck,
Thanks mate,
Talk soon
Marcus
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Hi Buick Carers,
Yesterday marked the 80th anniversary of the D Day landings, and an American Buick landed in a panel workshop in Australia. My Skylark is finally in the workshop and work is underway. The guy who is doing the work is fairly quick so hopefully I will be able to keep you all posted with progress shots.
Here is a photo of the shell leaving my driveway
Marcus
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Skylark and bodywork in workshop
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Yesterday marked the 80th anniversary of the D Day landings,
Yes indeed, I spent a lot of time yesterday thinking about it. My 92 year old mother shared her memories of the feelings of hope she and her family felt even if they were in the south of France and wouldn't be liberated for months.
and an American Buick landed in a panel workshop in Australia. My Skylark is finally in the workshop and work is underway. The guy who is doing the work is fairly quick so hopefully I will be able to keep you all posted with progress shots.
Thanks for the progress photos. It reminded me of my wagon being repainted in 2011. It was something of a difficult time because the work went so slowly, but eventually, it was a period of great joy as my wagon finally came back to life.
Edouard
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Great progress Marcus! The long road to restoration has just gotten shorter. Enjoy!
Chuck
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Yes hope any delays are short ones, second motor i got for my project after a months delay seems to be good for rebuilding first one had a broken rod . Jim
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Hi Guys,
I dropped in to see progress on my Skylark on Tuesday (its Friday here now).
Work was moving fast, new floor welded in LHS, RHS was removed ready for new floor.
I'm dropping in this afternoon to see what's developed this week.
Marcus
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick restorers,
I dropped in to see progress on my Skylark on Tuesday (its Friday here now).
Work was moving fast, new floor welded in LHS, RHS was removed ready for new floor.
Definitely good news! Glad the work is progressing swiftly. That is more the exception than the norm.
I'm dropping in this afternoon to see what's developed this week.
I hope there was additional progress!
Edouard
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Hi Buick Crew,
I dropped in on Friday to check out the Skylark. The guy working on the Skylark was away however he has made progress.
The floor is 90% complete, small patch to go in rear LHS foot well, and final work to be done on firewall.
The section that was welded in previously below the front windscreen was slightly out of alignment and the side trims didn't fit correctly, he has cut and shut the side trim to make it fit.
It's all stops out now sanding the body back, identifying high and low spots in the panel work. I sandblasted and etched the hood hinges on the weekend.
This is my first every nut and bolt restoration, I find it a little amusing how I waited years to get into the body shop thinking I was ready. Now the car is in I realize what still needs to be completed. I guess Rome wasn't built in a day.
Another week of sheet metal work ahead, rotisserie on standby for when he is ready to roll the shell over.
Regards
Marcus
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That's great progress, Marcus! After being in body shop limbo for so long, it must feel great! Going to energize the rest of the project for sure!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hi Guys,
Few more photos on progress so far.
Sheet metal work is close to finished, it's almost time to start hammering the Skylark straight.
Marcus
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Always good to see progress!
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Looks great Marcus ! Once the the paint is applied the Buick will come to life and the fun of putting it all back together begins. What color are you painting it ?
Tony
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Hi Buick Fans,
Thanks for responses, it's a pleasure to see the work in progress. While I enjoy seeing the body stripped back, rust removed and reshaped into original condition, I am looking forward to seeing the final coat of paint applied.
I'm taking my rotisserie in today to get the shell on it and make work a little easier. It needs to be upside-down to paint the underbody.
Million-dollar question that I'm sure I have asked before, paint the shell off or on the chassis? Now I have a car hoist I'm leaning towards painting the shell on the trolley I made in the photos. If I paint on the chassis, I have to bring it home again, fit the shell then transport it back again. I have the engine, heater and AC out, so I guess I need to keep the front end off. I'm interested in any feedback fixing a shell, fenders and hood to chassis after painting (think I need to buy some cotton gloves).
Tony, The Skylark will be Artic White, with blue interior.
Regards
Marcus
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Hi Marcus, I've done it both ways painting off the chassis gives more control of painting individual pieces you can rotate the body to make painting easier. And you can assemble full frame drivetrain,supension alot easier without the worry of over spray all depends on how much room you have to put everything with white paint I wouldn't think you have to paint everything all at once like a metallic paint.jim
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for the comments Jim, paint is getting close hopefully a week or two. So far he is up to 130 hours spent on panel work.
Few progress photos for you all.
Regards
Marcus
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Looking good .guide coats and long boarding to follow. Jim
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Hi Guys,
I have a question regarding two holes at the lower section of rear glass, photo shows holes in question.
Are these holes required for chrome trim? they seem to be factory and in the same location on each side, I didn't remove the trim and am unsure if they have been drilled there at some stage for whatever reason, a bit like the holes that were drilled above the taillights to tie the trunk lid down. I had to let the panel guy know yesterday these holes need to be filled (trunk tie down)
Any advice will be appreciated
Marcus
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Halo trim holes.
Everything looks great. Looking forward to seeing more pictures as progress develops.
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Jim is correct. There should also be some screw holes and more trim holes for the Halo trim.
I will get some pictures for you.
Loren
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Thanks Loren and Jim,
The deck (think that's what you call the section below the rear glass) has been replaced with a repair panel, I'm assuming there will be screw holes in this section somewhere.
The guy working on my car has had a rush of minor crash repairs to put through his workshop, he told me things might be a little slow on mine for a week or so. I understand he needs to keep his cash flow active, hopefully it will be back in full swing soon. I know it will be because he always moves fast, and my Buick takes up a lot of floor space in his shop.
Looking forward to photos of screw holes.
Regards
Marcus
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Here are some pictures of the roof where the trim attaches. I hope the person that removed the trim kept the clips and special hardware.
Loren
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Last picture
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Hi Loren,
Thanks for the photos, I think my halo trims and hardware are looong goone, and only the two holes I questioned are there.
is it possible to leave them off and only put the chrome around the glass?
Thanks Marcus
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Sure. Window trim has nothing to do with Halo trim.
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Thanks Jim,
Thats a relief, I didn't really want to go down that track and install a halo.
Have a good weekend
Marcus
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Not to distract from this great thread,
But was halo trim an option for the GS?
Thought it was just a Skylark thing... :dontknow:
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Hi Clatter,
Thanks for reading my posts.
My car is a Skylark, I'm not sure if the GS had a halo. I'm sure someone here will inform us.
Regards
Marcus
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Not to distract from this great thread,
But was halo trim an option for the GS?
Thought it was just a Skylark thing... :dontknow:
The "halo trim" was used only on the Skylark model in both '64 and '65. The Gran Sport had the trim sometimes referred to as "vinyl top" trim.
Loren
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Attached are pics of our original paint Skylark with halo trim.
How cool is the two-tone? :notworthy:
Maybe worth it to try and save?
Bet you that members here could help source some.
There are guys who restore things like these trim parts.
You can even do it yourself if you really knuckle into it.
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Hi Buick Fans,
I have the 300 running again, never found the exact cause of the water leak that gave me trouble. Possible human error, time will tell.
Last Friday I took the chassis and motor to a shop and ran it on a dyno machine to give it a good run-in under load. Everything went well and we gave it a little horsepower test at the end.
The mighty stock 300ci produced 160 HP @4448 RPM at the back wheels. I'm about to start the steering wheel restoration (Thanks to Tony's motivation photos) in preparation of the shell returning back to my shed.
Regards
Marcus
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On the truck
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Congrats on all the progress. That's a really pretty chassis and driveline. Watching for more developments as they come along.
Loren
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Looking really good, Marcus. And happy that the engine seems to be running well! Looking forward to the next update!
Chuck
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Slow and steady : Chassis and drivetrain look awesome. let us know if you need anything along the way.
I'm putting together part 3 of the steering wheel restoration, it should be posted tonight or tomorrow.
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi Marcus, Loren, Chuck, Tony, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thank you for having your 300 cid tested and thanks even more for sharing with us! I'm sure this car will bring much satisfaction for years to come! Enjoy the final assembly!
Edouard
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for the comments regarding the 300.
It wasn't until I looked back through my posts, I realized I failed to let you guys know about the engine trouble I have encountered this year. Around the time I built the new shed the 300 was misfiring. After a quick inspection I noticed a bent push rod and seized exhaust valve on cylinder 3. After removing the inlet manifold, I discovered every cylinder was contaminated with water.
I assumed a cracked cylinder head, and set to making a test rig, testing each head for leaks. I blanked the water jackets off submerged in hot water then pressurized with air (photo below), all seemed ok. then I spoke with the guy who machined the engine components, after seeing my blanking plates (the hardest part as far as testing heads go) he let me use his test machine pumping hot water through the heads and then pressurizing, again no leaks the heads seemed ok.
I spoke with the mechanic who built the engine, he was suspicious there was a water leak in the block between the water jacket and a cylinder the result of corrosion from sitting for so many years. I spoke with the machinist regarding this theory, he suggested (and I know this sounds primitive..) to bolt 1 head on and seal the water pump, turn the engine on the stand so the block without the head is facing up. Fill the water jacket with petrol and inspect for leaks. The results were interesting however no leaks. The day I did the test was warm and sunny, I filled the water jacket until it was full to the brim, I watched for a while and nothing happened, I walked away and left it. About an hour later I walked past and noticed a tiny drip falling from the crank (sump was off) I though this is it, I?ve found it, on close inspection the petrol had expanded in the sun, ran over the machined surface on the block where the head bolts on down at cylinder #8 ran past the piston and down to the crank. At that point realized how the smallest of leaks is easy to see doing this test and my block is ok.
From here I was still unsure, luckily Chuck had a mate with a spare 300, I bought it as my plan B. I purchased a set of push rods, new valves and gaskets and with a mate of mine who is a mechanic put the engine back together. After we did the first fire up, I took it into the dyno so I could run the cam in and test the engine under operating temperature and load. It all went well.
I have a few theories to what caused the failure, me doing short runs after rebuilding and not getting correct temperature, using coolant from the start (a few old school mechanics have suggested never use coolant before an engine is properly run in), incorrect inlet manifold gasket used from kit, incorrect torque on LHS head, I checked RHS it was correct. To be honest I don?t know however time will tell and I have a spare engine in transit (thanks Chuck).
Has anyone encountered a similar problem after a rebuild? It's frustrating to not find the point of failure.
I dropped into the panel shop yesterday, didn?t get to see my Skylark as it was late and the shed its in was locked. My mate who is doing the body work told me he has painted the underside and inner guards. The body is 80% block sanded and should be painted soon.
Take care
Marcus
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Thanks Marcus for sharing your curious tale about your first 300 cid.
Unfortunately, you might never find out the cause. Fortunately, at least there is a happy ending to this story! Hopefully, this is the end of the gremlins interfering with your restoration!
Edouard
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Stoked to see posts on the thread.
Also glad to see someone else flummoxed by head gasket failure.
I did the exact same thing on a Fiat (never again).
Took it apart, nothing wrong, reassemble, leaks again.
Solution this time is to replace the block and head! :angry5:
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Hi Buick Fans,
I'm shopping again and seeking some advice on a few parts.
Windscreen wiper motor, how do I tell if mine is 1 speed or two? I'm looking at an OPG Part# CH20280.
Can anyone advise the correct wiper washer bottle, is there any advice on the correct washer pump and hose kit? I'm looking at OPG Part# CT20305 and Part# CH33728.
Rear seat rubber bumper, how can I tell if I need a round or oval shape?
I dropped into the panel shop yesterday, shell is ready for paint. I'm about to go over there and take the shell off the rotisserie and place it on the trolley so it can be wheeled into the spray booth. It's been 2 months longer than expected, however expect a coat of paint next week. Inside hood and trunk are painted, inside doors and sills are done, dash has been painted blue.
Have a good weekend
Marcus
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Despite the delay, that's great progress, Marcus! It's fun when it all starts to come together!
The washer bottle can be purchased from Fusick: https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WJ6405 (https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WJ6405)
I hope others can chime in on your other questions.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hello Marcus,
The washer solvent tank CT20305 is correct for the '65 Buick Skylarks.
I think the Windscreen wiper motor looks correct, but I will have to take a look at mine to be certain. As for the washer pump kit CH33728, that is not correct. The original washer pump is part of the Windscreen wiper motor.
The correct rubber seat bumper is round. The oval style is for '66.
Loren
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Dear Marcus, Chuck, Loren, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Windscreen wiper motor, how do I tell if mine is 1 speed or two? I'm looking at an OPG Part# CH20280.
Can anyone advise the correct wiper washer bottle?
. . .
In those immortal words . . . . "I could be wrong ya' know!" :dontknow:
However, I thought only Buick A-bodies with 2-speed wipers had the washer tank and windshield squirt nozzles?
My trusty wagon most definitely came with a 1-speed wiper and no washer tank from the factory. However, I suppose there could be differences between Deluxe Special A-bodies and Skylark A-bodies.
Now you've got a curious mind wanting to know! :icon_scratch:
Edouard
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Ok, sorry for the slow response. Finally have some pictures to share of the single and dual speed wiper motors.
The first picture is of the single speed motor WITH washer pump. Yes Edouard, there was a single speed motor with washer option. lol
The switch for a single speed motor with washer is: 1993306.
The switch for a single speed motor less washer is: 1993634.
The second picture is of the dual speed motor with washer pump. There was no dual speed motor less washer option. Switch part number is: 1993305.
Notice the difference in the number of terminals on the motors. They both have two terminals on the washer pump. The single speed motor has only two terminals on the wiper motor part. The dual speed has four terminals on the wiper motor.
What I find strange is that the dual speed motor uses only three of the four terminals.
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Dear Loren and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Ok, sorry for the slow response. Finally have some pictures to share of the single and dual speed wiper motors.
The first picture is of the single speed motor WITH washer pump. Yes Edouard, there was a single speed motor with washer option. lol
. . . .
Wow! How complicated is that! It sure was a different world then!
Okay, I stand corrected! :icon_salut:
Edouard
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for the responses and information, I will see if I can track down a wiper motor with washer pump built in.
Regards
Marcus
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Marcus,
Have you decided whether you are going to use the single speed or the dual speed? Both are designed to have the washer pump but do not come with the pump. The pump is available by itself.
Loren
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Hi what about the wiring harness change from 1 to 2 speed.? Jim
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I may be incorrect but from looking at the parts book and my experience, there seems to be no specific harness between the single speed or dual speed system.
The wiring harness in the engine compartment to the wipers should already have a single black wire in a single connector and with two other connectors for the wiper motor and washer pump. The wiper motor has a two-place connector with a yellow wire and a dark blue wire. The washer pump has a two-place connector with a yellow wire and a light blue wire. The black wire I previously mentioned is the HIGH speed.
So, it looks like Buick prepped the harness for use with either the single speed or dual speed. I would think the same for the dash harness. I've had a few forward lighting harnesses already have a brown tachometer lead coiled up and taped to the harness as well as the leads for reverse lights coiled up and taped to the harness in the engine compartment.
Loren
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Hi Buick Crew & Loren,
I went with the two-speed wiper motor and external washer pump. I found a wiper motor with pump that was too expensive for my liking.
I'm chalking it up as another Aussie restoration that no one here will know any different.
Now I sit back and wait for delivery.
Regards
Marcus
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Hi Buick Crew,
Paint job in progress, hope to have it home next week. Shell is off the rotisserie and on the trolley.
Enjoy photos
Marcus
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few more photos
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The paint looks really nice, Marcus. Is it basecoat/clearcoat? Already wet sanded and buffed out? Or is it a single stage paint?
The real fun begins soon!!
Chuck
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Hi Buick Men,
The Skylark paint job is near complete,
The paint looks really nice, Marcus. Is it basecoat/clearcoat? Already wet sanded and buffed out? Or is it a single stage paint?
Chuck its two-pack paint, hasn't been buffed yet he wants the panels bolted to the car for buffing. There are a few dust marks that will buff out when the time comes.
The shell is in the booth I'm hoping to have it home next week, it's been a journey, but I have my eyes on the prize. What is it with panel beaters (cannot remember what you guys call them) they are a breed of their own and I thought we were mates.....
I couldn't help but sit the hood ornament in place on the weekend for a quick photo.
Enjoy
Marcus
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That tri-colored Tri-Shield hood ornament looks great on that expansive white background. We can feel the excitement building. Is it your hope to drive it before the end of summer in Oz?
:cheers2:
Chuck
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That tri-colored Tri-Shield hood ornament looks great on that expansive white background. We can feel the excitement building. Is it your hope to drive it before the end of summer in Oz?
:cheers2:
Chuck
Hi Chuck, good question. Drive around the backyard by the end of summer yes. Drive down the road complete and registered, end of summer 2025. I will get there.
Marcus
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Good plan....don't rush!
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Take your time, it will all come together and you will be proud of it....
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi Buick Men,
I am a bit of a numbers man (I am an Engineer) I?m slightly amused by superstition, and I?m very keen on history.
When I purchased my Skylark, it had the original Californian plates on it, last registered in June 2015, exactly 50 years from manufacture date in 1965. Something to ponder..
You may recall I dropped my Skylark into the body shop on June 6 2024, the 80th anniversary of the D Day landings in WW2.
On 17th October 1974 I was born, and today 50 years since I was born, I?m bringing my Skylark home from the body shop, reborn with a new Artic White paint job.
Enjoy the photos, and get prepared for my questions to follow on ?how do you put this back together?
Kind regards
Marcus
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few more
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Looking really sweet there Marcus. Now the real fun begins with the assembly. You'll have questions, I'm certain. We've been with you from the beginning, I know we will be there to help you reach the finish line with your build.
Looking forward to more progress.
Loren
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY Marcus, another trip around the sun.. Your Artic White Skylark looks absolutely beautiful. I mailed out your parts today, so that is my gift to you. I don't know how long it will take to get to you but it's on it's way. Keep up the steady pace and it will all come together, and I will definitely be jealous...
:cheers2: HAPPY BIRTHDAY :occasion14:
Tony
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What Tony said! That's a really cool birthday present! Setting that body on the chassis will feel just great. By all means, keep us posted and ask away with questions!
Happy Birthday!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Thanks Men,
My Skylark has almost landed.
Marcus.
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Happy Birthday and congratulations. Car looks great, the journey continues. :occasion13:
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Happy Birthday Marcus!! :occasion13:
I'm glad to see all the progress. You are indeed in the final laps of this race!! :hello2:
Edouard
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Hi Buick Men,
I had a few mates around last weekend and we sat the shell on the chassis. I had plans to take it off again to work on the fire wall "Bolt on Bits" however as I look at it, I think I can do the work as is.
Any feedback regarding fitting out components off the chassis?
Regards
Marcus
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few more photos
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks so much for sharing photos of your restoration! (https://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/kodak.gif)
You have done a very good job of restoring the engine to its factory configuration.
The last time my trusty wagon had nailhead green valve covers was when I as a teenager. I remember my Dad being disappointment when we had the engine rebuilt and it came back Chevy blue. That was all the way back in 1979! The same was true of the snorkel air cleaner.
So I'm reliving something of my past thanks to you!
Edouard
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Shouldn't be any problem fitting everything to the firewall with the body mounted on the chassis. I did mine that way and don't recall any real problems.
It's looking really good! Enjoy the reassembly journey!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Your Skylark looks beautiful ! Keep up the good work. :icon_thumright:
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi Buick Fans,
I managed to get over my 50th Birthday celebrations and have put the shed back to Skylark restoration phase.
Over the weekend I torqued the shell to chassis bolts with new bushes in place. I've done a dry fit with brake booster, AC and trunk rubber. I don't have the best of photos on hand regarding the trunk seal, I believe it's in the right way, I'm just not sure if it right. It sits a bit funny along the deck section and around the corners near the hinges. Perhaps it will sit better when glued in place, I'm guessing taping the seal around the corners will help keep it in place while glue cures. The trunk closes (with a little effort) and seems to line up ok when closed, I guess they were never perfect.
Any recommendations on a sealing compound to use around the brake booster seal against the fire wall? I'm guessing I need some kind of compound that remains flexible. I'm hesitant to use silicone sealant as it will be there forever (perhaps that will be a good thing).
Waiting now on an order from OPGI with a stack of minor parts I need to keep going, some items are back order however expected soon.
Hope you enjoy the photos.
Marcus
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one more photo
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Hi marcus,cars looking good sealing by brake booster maybe plumers putty that way you can form it to what ever size you need .try and pull a litte more gasket into the corners it should lay down better had to work on our trunk too .to get it right.jim
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Hi Jim and other Readers,
Thanks for the advice, I'm going to try and get the trunk seal glued in today. I believe it's the correct orientation with the curl facing out, that's how the service manual shows it. I will keep working it a bit and see how it goes. Just seems to get shape around the corners where the profile of the sheet metal cannot hold it in the same as the long runs. I guess I'm not used to doing assembly work.
Regards
Marcus
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Section behind trunk hinge
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Correct Marcus. Curl out.
Chuck
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Ah, man, gentlemen, so inspiring to see this stuff beautiful and shiny.
My car is still so tatty i forget what it's supposed to look like!
Nice work.
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Hi Guys,
I'm about to start a new chapter of my build, working on the dashboard instrument panel.
Before I start, I wanted to check in for any advice before I start pulling it apart for restoration.
I have ordered new switches and a replacement PCB from OPGI they are a few weeks away from my place.
My order includes a new cigarette lighter, from what I can see it doesn't have the actual push in element component of the lighter and mine is long gone. Would anyone have one they want to sell?
Regards
Marcus
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rear of instrument panel
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Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I'm about to start a new chapter of my build, working on the dashboard instrument panel.
Before I start, I wanted to check in for any advice before I start pulling it apart for restoration.
. . .
It has been over a decade since I restored my trusty wagon's instrument panel. However, I took quite a few photos as I went along. If you need to see how things come together perhaps that would help.
My order includes a new cigarette lighter, from what I can see it doesn't have the actual push in element component of the lighter and mine is long gone. Would anyone have one they want to sell?
Unfortunately, I can't help you with this one. Biquette's cigarette lighter was lost when she was stolen all the way back in 1986. It was a desperate struggle to find a replacement.
Best of luck in locating one for your Buick!
Edouard
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Found this one with a quick search on Google. Don't know if it's right or not. There were several listed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145881194695 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/145881194695)
Keith
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I have this one from my parts stash. I tested it and it works. The chrome has pealed on the knob. I tried to show that in a picture.
Message me if you are interested, Marcus.
Loren
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Hi Marcus, & Loren, Keith, Edouard. If you are going to update your instrument panel I would suggest that you think about updating your 194 & 168 bulbs to LED. I updated my White GS and Red GS and it makes a big difference when you drive the Skylark at night. I will be updating the Code Z GS next season. The only drawback is that they are not dimmable, but the few times that I drive at night I really don't mind at all.
For LEDs contact Shiftworks in Ontario, NY at support@shiftworks.com Package of 8 LEDs is $30.00
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi Loren, Keith, Edouard and Tony,
As always you guys are awesome, it's like having my own personal support crew. Something that is very handy when you are restoring a car you know next to nothing about.
It's a funny thing to track down a lighter when you are a non-smoker HA.
Tony, Thanks for the advice regarding LED's it's definitely something I had not considered.
I've done a dry fit with some of the wiring harnesses, the seem to fit perfectly. I cannot remember who advised me to have the wiring manufactured by M&H, whoever it was a big thanks from me it seems to be perfect.
Kind Regards
Marcus
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Dear Marcus, Tony, Loren, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
It's a funny thing to track down a lighter when you are a non-smoker HA.
. . . .
Indeed it is a strange need since it just makes that instrument panel look complete.
In my case, I had a need for a working cigarette lighter jack because I had accessories that I would plug-in instead. Many years ago, I built for myself a fuse-protected DC power strip that I could plug my telescope and boom box into for astronomy sessions at distance campgrounds.
These days, you are much more likely to want to use your cigarette light jack to plug in a USB accessory than anything to do with combustion!
Keep up the good work Marcus!
Edouard
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Yes, the lighter is need for our phones now!
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Hi Guys,
I've received my dash pad back from the trimmers, time for some questions...
Is it best to fit the dash pad before windscreen is installed?
Should hood liner (you guys might call it the roof?) be installed before or after the front and back glass?
Thanks Marcus
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I would definitely do the headliner with the windows out. Easier to stretch towards the rear window. When I did mine, I wish the glass was out.
The dash pad goes in fine with the windshield in.
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Thanks Jim,
I had better order those headliner bows I should have purchased much earlier.
Currently working on insulating the shell, should have done the roof while it was still on the rotisserie.
Thanks Marcus.
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Hi Buick Men,
Progress has been slower than I would have liked, but it's still moving forward.
The Skylark is currently in a mechanical workshop finishing off the brakes. Master cylinder will be attached and brake lines to be made connecting the master cylinder to main brake lines.
The steering column is in, and the power steering pump has been commissioned.
Heater and fan is installed, AC ready to go in when it returns from workshop
I have received my new headliner and a few internal trim sections I didn't have, hoping to have it installed soon.
Yesterday I got brave, pushed the Skylark out of the shed, started it in neutral then clicked it into gear and drove across the yard ready for the truck to collect this morning. it was a great feeling to move it under its own power, brakes will be very reassuring though
Few photos of current state, I have bolted the driver's seat in just so I can move it around. seat still needs upholstery fitted.
Thanks again for support and reading my post.
Marcus
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Looking good, Marcus! What a feeling the first time you drive it, even if only around your yard. Sounds like you're going to be busy when it returns from the workshop. Enjoy the ride!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hi Buick Men,
I reached a milestone last week finishing the brakes on the Skylark, now I can move and stop it from the driver's seat.
I have two questions regarding the AC and heater box
AC - is there a gasket between the firewall and AC unit?. I don't recall one and the service manual has no reference to one. It looks like the mating face on the AC unit has ridges moulded into it that hold the AC slightly off the firewall.
Heater box - is there a seal between the heater box and steel duct directing air to the dash vent?
Thanks in advance
Marcus
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Photo of under dash heater box.
Forgot to mention, I've found a new upholsterer who is coming to my shed on Saturday to fit the replacement headliner, hopefully I will have some nice photos to post when its installed.
Thanks Marcus
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JEGS and OPG and several other venders have gasket kits available for both AC and non AC Skylarks.
https://www.opgi.com/gaskets-seals/engine-gaskets-seals/heater-box-seals7/1964-1972-gm-a-body-and-grand-prix-heater-box-seal-set-without-air-conditioning-CH17264.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19562697745&gbraid=0AAAAAD1PleoIhOlUk1MaahbIKHwQAiVSM&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuvrBBhDcARIsAKRrkjctH7Pjf8PsmEJ38ra0WBfffdaOaxrQVpCFMM1I1saMEiN_OGb7g4gaAi80EALw_wcB (https://www.opgi.com/gaskets-seals/engine-gaskets-seals/heater-box-seals7/1964-1972-gm-a-body-and-grand-prix-heater-box-seal-set-without-air-conditioning-CH17264.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19562697745&gbraid=0AAAAAD1PleoIhOlUk1MaahbIKHwQAiVSM&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuvrBBhDcARIsAKRrkjctH7Pjf8PsmEJ38ra0WBfffdaOaxrQVpCFMM1I1saMEiN_OGb7g4gaAi80EALw_wcB)
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I don't have any knowledge with the AC cars, however heater box covers were sealed to the firewall with caulking. 3M strip caulk I'd expect to be avail to you locally. It can be used on the door panel water shields, and to seal various trim hardware where it goes thru a body panel. It's a good item to have around.
For custom gasket making, a sheet or roll of 1/8" sponge neoprene is another useful product to keep in stock. I've used it for vent door seals, heater box seals, and qtr panel extensions on my 66's.
Your car looks great!! Congrats on the progress, it's coming together very nicely!