65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => Q & A => Topic started by: Polishmeatballpizza on August 20, 2016, 01:55:08 AM
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How many point does the body contact the frame? I'm just curious.
Also, do you guys think it's possible to remove the body without hoisting it up? Maybe use several stand and jacks on the floor to lift it up and then roll the frame out from under it?
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There are 14 body mounts.
If you slide the frame out sideways from the body, you won't have to lift it as high.
There are a few pics in this '66 GS eBay auction that show him putting body back on frame:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Buick-Skylark-/322201400609?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=oJKDfIWBgTj9ZnV8LO%252FXKN0LrZA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Buick-Skylark-/322201400609?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=oJKDfIWBgTj9ZnV8LO%252FXKN0LrZA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)
If you have an engine hoist, they work well for lifting one end of the body.
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I wouldn't be able to slide it out sideways, my garage isn't big enough. It would have to roll out the back.
I got to thinking, since most of the car is apart, it may be a good idea to just take the body off the frame and get the frame painted. However, the more I think about it, the more I realize it's not going to be an easy task.
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George,
Loren & I removed the body from frame using 4x4s and cinder blocks. One 4x4 between the frame rails after the gas tank was removed,
and another under the four front body/frame mounts. Raised the body hi enough with the blocks to roll the frame out from the front.
There are pics posted here:
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=20.0 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=20.0)
Mark
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George,
Loren & I removed the body from frame using 4x4s and cinder blocks. One 4x4 between the frame rails after the gas tank was removed,
and another under the four front body/frame mounts. Raised the body hi enough with the blocks to roll the frame out from the front.
There are pics posted here:
[url]http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=20.0[/url] ([url]http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=20.0[/url])
Mark
Looks like a lot of work. I still don't think I have the room for that.
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I was able to lift the body off with an engine hoist and roll the chassis out then support the body o. 4x4's and saw horses. Then we pu casters on the 4x4's and set the body on the floor. Worked pretty good
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George,
Remove gas tank
Disconnect steering column from box
Disconnect emergency brake
Remove body mount bolts
Front sheetmetal should be off
That is all you to do to remove the body. And the whole jacking, blocking up part.
The biggest challenge might be the corrosion factor on the mount bolts.
Thats also been done by quite a few guys. You've done a ton of work already.
If you do separate the body and frame, there are space issues with big parts.
Mark
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George,
Remove gas tank
Disconnect steering column from box
Disconnect emergency brake
Remove body mount bolts
Front sheetmetal should be off
That is all you to do to remove the body. And the whole jacking, blocking up part.
The biggest challenge might be the corrosion factor on the mount bolts.
Thats also been done by quite a few guys. You've done a ton of work already.
If you do separate the body and frame, there are space issues with big parts.
Mark
Well, it's been a while since I have been here... just getting back to working on the car. Had some other things going on, mostly with the bike.
Couple of questions, since I am seriously considering taking the body off the frame. Can I leave the doors on the car, without encountering any issues? Not sure if it being a convertible creates any other considerations.
EDIT - I take it, all the mounting points are accessed from underneath the car?
Also, not sure what the last statement above is regarding.
Thanks!
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Hi George,
Yes, all the body mount bolts are accessed from underneath. If the chassis and body are not too rusty they will come out with some urging. Be sure to soak them with WD-40 or equivalent for awhile before trying to break them loose. If it breaks loose and just spins, the metal in the body around the caged nut has rusted and broken. This happened on my car on one side under the trunk. Had to cut a flap above in the trunk to access the nut and hold it so the bolt could be taken out. Then weld up the "hole" in the trunk and it's invisible.
You can leave the doors on the car, but keep them closed or you run the risk of twisting the body. We took the doors off my convertible before taking the body off the frame and fabricated angle iron braces that we bolted into the door openings to support the door and prevent buckling.
I'll let Mark comment on his earlier post.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress.
Chuck
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George,
If you do separate the body and frame, there are space issues with big parts.
Mark
Well, it's been a while since I have been here... just getting back to working on the car. Had some other things going on, mostly with the bike.
Also, not sure what the last statement above is regarding.
Thanks!
A disassembled car take up a lot of space! When you blow the car car all apart, you'll need storage and work space for everything,
not to mention making sure it's all organized (shelving, etc) so you know how to screw it back together. Just trying to help.
Mark
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(http://www.strangevehicles.com/images/content/187899.gif)
You could always hang a valve...
Should have that body off in about 2 seconds.
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Thats not what I meant by "blow the car all apart."
lol.
Mark
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Dear George, Chuck, Mark, TrunkMonkey, and mid-60s Buick "do-it-yourselfers"
Nice to have you back George! We missed ya'! :hello:
You could always hang a valve...
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . Well, Mayb' But I reckon that's goin' about it da' HARD way!! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/banghead.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thats not what I meant by "blow the car all apart."
lol.
Mark
Ok. I got it.
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Thats not what I meant by "blow the car all apart."
lol.
Mark
Note to self...
(http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2015/02/06/20150206150717-9aa93afc.gif)
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Still have a long way to go...
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Not much room for parts.
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Dear George and mid-60s Buick "travelers down the road of restoration."
Still have a long way to go...
Perhaps so, but it is still progress! After all any journey starts with a single step and you are well ahead of that! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The challenge of creating space for the restoration process is half of the fun! :laughing7:
Looks like a nice project car. Enjoy!
Chuck
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I'm at the point where I need to know what items I will need to get the body lifted and supported for an extended period of time. It will probably take me some time to gather these items and prepare the rest of the car. I am a bit anxious!
For example, once I loosen/remove all the bolts from the fourteen mounting points, how and where do I lift the body?
Will a 4x4 be required to support it?
Will I need four bottle jacks? or scissor jacks?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Here's how we did it. Two engine hoists, a couple of straps, four sawhorses and two 4x4's. See pictures.
Chuck
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George,
Loren & I did it a little different than Chuck. This was before rotisseries became the way to do the body.
Raised it with stands and 4x4s to roll the frame out. I was able to borrow a body cart made for a-bodies
so it could be moved around. Not as convenient as a rotisserie by a long shot, but worked.
Mark
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I'm at the point where I need to know what items I will need to get the body lifted and supported for an extended period of time. It will probably take me some time to gather these items and prepare the rest of the car. I am a bit anxious!
For example, once I loosen/remove all the bolts from the fourteen mounting points, how and where do I lift the body?
Will a 4x4 be required to support it?
Will I need four bottle jacks? or scissor jacks?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I did mine very similar to how Chuck did his , except I only needed 1 engine hoist because my car is a hardtop and I just used a strap thru the quarter window area .
You could just lift one end at a time and rest it on 8 foot 4x4s supported by saw horses or something equivalent .
Whatever method you use just be careful , I,m not a fan of bottle jacks . That sounds kind of scary .
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Mark and I were typing at the same time , the way he did his is exactly how I was trying to explain it .
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It's been a long time, but seems to me there is a lifting point just behind the doors that is nearly the perfect balance point. We lifted by vert off the frame with one engine host off of these pick points. Maybe they're called out in the service manual? I will see what I can find.
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It's been a long time, but seems to me there is a lifting point just behind the doors that is nearly the perfect balance point. We lifted by vert off the frame with one engine host off of these pick points. Maybe they're called out in the service manual? I will see what I can find.
That would be great - Thanks!
I can't lift it from the top with a hoist, need to do it from below.
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It's been a long time, but seems to me there is a lifting point just behind the doors that is nearly the perfect balance point. We lifted by vert off the frame with one engine host off of these pick points. Maybe they're called out in the service manual? I will see what I can find.
That would be great - Thanks!
I can't lift it from the top with a hoist, need to do it from below.
George,
One of the first body off restorations I did, I used a floor jack from underside and used a length of 2X6 to distribute the lift point out as far as possible.
Loren
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I prefer the levitation method.
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Can you guys identify the body mounting points?
There's three up front, one near that middle, and three more in the back? Seven on each side?
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George,
I'll confess, I was some what intimidated having never removed a body from the frame before. However once I got stater it was easier than I thought it would be. Just take your time and be careful; your mechanical skills will get you through it.
Here’s the ‘A’ body frame to body mount locations. This one is a 66 Olds but yours will be similar.
Hope it helps.
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You guys think this is just a plug for air conditioning lines? The washers below the heater core inlet/outlet.
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Yes. Did your car ever have an under dash AC unit?
Since those were not factory installed, the holes could be anywhere in that general vicinity.
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Yes. Did your car ever have an under dash AC unit?
Since those were not factory installed, the holes could be anywhere in that general vicinity.
It didn't have one when I got it.
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Are all these mounting points accessed from the bottom?
And, do some of these have rubber plugs? If so, how do you get them out?
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George
All of the body mount bolts are removable from the bottom. Use the diagram I posted and a bright flashlight, you'll be able to see the bolts. The bolts go into blind cage nuts, hopefully they turn out without busting the cage nut loose.
Good luck, I'm repairing one cage nut now.
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What is this?
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What is this?
I think this is position #4, it identifies it as a Plug (PLAIN). Does that mean a bolt doesn't go there?
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This one looks like rubber plug or boot. You guys think there's a bolt under there?
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And, where's the balance point for lifting the body? I guess I will need at least two floor Jack's.
I got all the bolts out, except for what looks like a plug at position 4.
Tried jacking it up a little, it's definitely moving up.
Just got to figure out what to do next.
Once it's up in the air, I'll probably use 4x4s across the body, but how to support those 4x4s?
EDIT: I guess I'll use saw horses - Harbor Freight has some for 12.99; they hold 350# each. That should be enough to support the body, right?
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There are 2 sets ( a total of 4 , 2 on each side ) of body mount bushings that don,t have bolts going through them . They are just sandwiched between the frame and the body .
I believe those are the 2 you have pictured .
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George,
Is your car a coupe or convertible?
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George,
Is your car a coupe or convertible?
Convertible.
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G
That's interesting. Where was your car built?
On some A body's mount five just above the rear axle is just a rubber bumper of sorts. On my convertible all 14 positions had bolts in the mounts.
????Did you remove the emergency brake cable???? I ask because I forgot mine.
Sounds like you're ready for lift off.
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On my convertible, all 14 body mounts had bolts through them as well.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Once it's up in the air, I'll probably use 4x4s across the body, but how to support those 4x4s?
EDIT: I guess I'll use saw horses - Harbor Freight has some for 12.99; they hold 350# each. That should be enough to support the body, right?
Get something better than those plastic saw horses, we don't want you to kill yourself!
I've used pallet rack shelving like you see at Home depot. Holds a lot of weight and they are adjustable. There may be a place in your area that sells it used, maybe even a scrap yard or check craigslist.
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G
That's interesting. Where was your car built?
On some A body's mount five just above the rear axle is just a rubber bumper of sorts. On my convertible all 14 positions had bolts in the mounts.
????Did you remove the emergency brake cable???? I ask because I forgot mine.
Sounds like you're ready for lift off.
I don't recall where it was built.
Yeah, I am getting close to lifting it. The emergency brake cable has been removed.
I'm hoping to get it up on 4x4s this weekend.
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And, where's the balance point for lifting the body? I guess I will need at least two floor Jack's.
I got all the bolts out, except for what looks like a plug at position 4.
Tried jacking it up a little, it's definitely moving up.
Just got to figure out what to do next.
Once it's up in the air, I'll probably use 4x4s across the body, but how to support those 4x4s?
EDIT: I guess I'll use saw horses - Harbor Freight has some for 12.99; they hold 350# each. That should be enough to support the body, right?
George,
Balance point is right about there on a HT.
Per Walt, I'd get something more stout than 12.99 saw horses. Please don't take any risks.
Mark
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How much does the body weigh? The sawhorses are rated at 350# each.
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According to my calculations, I need to be at least 28" above the ground to clear the tires when rolling the frame out. Jack stands that go that high are about $100 each.
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George , You don,t have to spend 100.00 each on jack stands , All we,re saying is use something that is going to hold the weight .
The safe way is to just plan on the body weighing a 1000 lbs . I know it don,t , but why take the chance on someone getting hurt .
If the sawhorses are rated for 350pounds EACH you should be ok IF your using 4 of them , one on each corner .
12.99 just sounds cheap for sawhorses .
We look forward to falling along with your restoration , so be safe and enjoy the journey . :thumbsup:
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I used two engine hoists and a body cart the cart was 400 dollars well worth it! if you want to sell it when your done you will get close to that for it .I sold my auto twirler for what i paid for it on my last frame off
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Well, I figured the body weighs about 1000 lbs, I wasn't looking for the cheapest thing. I just need to find something that is tall enough and strong enough. And, I am working with limited space, so I can't really buy a cart and roll the body around - I need to get it up in the air, so I can finish working on it.
These at Home Depot look pretty sturdy - planning on getting four of them. Each pair is rated at 750 lbs, so I should be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136)
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Well, I figured the body weighs about 1000 lbs, I wasn't looking for the cheapest thing. I just need to find something that is tall enough and strong enough. And, I am working with limited space, so I can't really buy a cart and roll the body around - I need to get it up in the air, so I can finish working on it.
These at Home Depot look pretty sturdy - planning on getting four of them. Each pair is rated at 750 lbs, so I should be ok.
[url]http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136[/url] ([url]http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136[/url])
There would be no way i would trust those to hold anything i was crawling around
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There would be no way i would trust those to hold anything i was crawling around
I second that.
Mark
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Well, I figured the body weighs about 1000 lbs, I wasn't looking for the cheapest thing. I just need to find something that is tall enough and strong enough. And, I am working with limited space, so I can't really buy a cart and roll the body around - I need to get it up in the air, so I can finish working on it.
These at Home Depot look pretty sturdy - planning on getting four of them. Each pair is rated at 750 lbs, so I should be ok.
[url]http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136[/url] ([url]http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136[/url])
There would be no way i would trust those to hold anything i was crawling around
That is a good point, I will be spending a lot of time under the body. Any suggestions?
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How about some cinder blocks and 2"x10" planks.
Make sure the boards are relatively knot free. Stack the cinder blocks, then drop 2"x4"s down through the holes for safety. Get the cinder blocks at Lowes or Home Depot when your done return them.
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How about some cinder blocks and 2"x10" planks.
Make sure the boards are relatively knot free. Stack the cinder blocks, then drop 2"x4"s down through the holes for safety. Get the cinder blocks at Lowes or Home Depot when your done return them.
Ok. That's a good idea, cheap too.
2x10 across the body, supporting it? Wouldn't 4x4s be stronger?
I could use 4x4s inside the cinder blocks, right?
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Dear George and mid-60s Buick scaffold erectors,
Ok. That's a good idea, cheap too.
2x10 across the body, supporting it? Wouldn't 4x4s be stronger?
I could use 4x4s inside the cinder blocks, right?
You are correct, the 4"x4" have greater strength than the 2"x10". However, the 10" width provides more surface area to spread the weight of the body. That should reduce the risk of the body warping because of the unusual support position. If you wanted the best of both worlds, you should have 4" x 4" support beams with 2"x10"s on top of that actually providing the contact surface between the car body and your framework below.
Might be overkill but when it comes to safety perhaps you can never be too safe.
Cheers, Edouard
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George,
Do not use half blocks! Use full size standard blocks. Do not use lightweight blocks. Stack the blocks as a block layer would. Do not lay them on their side or ends.
Edouard is correct you may achieve more strength with a 4x4 but I like the 2x10 because it will distribute the load more evenly over the top of the block. Woods cheep, I would double up the 2x10 plank and I would cover the top of the block with a board then lay the 2x10 on it. Make sure the boards are knot free.
No short cuts here if you're going to be getting under the car.
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Dear Kevin, George and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Do not use half blocks! Use full size standard blocks. Do not use lightweight blocks. Stack the blocks as a block layer would. Do not lay them on their side or ends.
Edouard is correct you may achieve more strength with a 4x4 but I like the 2x10 because it will distribute the load more evenly over the top of the block. Woods cheep, I would double up the 2x10 plank and I would cover the top of the block with a board then lay the 2x10 on it. Make sure the boards are knot free.
No short cuts here if you're going to be getting under the car.
After I posted my scheme I started to worry about the potential to twist that could occur if the 2" X 10" wasn't loaded evenly on the 4" X 4". So that isn't such a hot idea after all. Indeed use wood of the same width. Either two 2" x 10" or if you want to be really robust 4" x 10"
Thanks Kevin, you are ahead of me! :icon_thumright:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I use 2x4 on flat stacked cris cross on a square . You can make them as tall as you want. But I would recommend 16" at the max. I made a number of them 2 - 16"2 -12" 2 -8 " 2-4" . They are all 12" square. They are quite strong . And last a long time. you don't have to worry about them scattering . That is what they use to hold up houses when they are moving or building. It will take you a few hours to make them but they will last forever. 2x4 doesn't cost much. For 50 bucks you will have a full set and last you forever.
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Here's what I have so far, cinder blocks and two 4x6.
What you guys think?
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Looks like what I have done more then once. By removing the rear wheels and rear springs, it can be pulled out using a floor jack under the differential. I place the cross piece [4X4] in the rear through the wheel well opening and the front one where the front body mounts are.
Just another way of doing the same thing,
Loren
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Looks like what I have done more then once. By removing the rear wheels and rear springs, it can be pulled out using a floor jack under the differential. I place the cross piece [4X4] in the rear through the wheel well opening and the front one where the front body mounts are.
Why do I need to remove the springs?
Just another way of doing the same thing,
Loren
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Not sure if I posted that right.
Why do I need to remove the rear springs?
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George,
Then the rear end can be raised up tighter into the frame, allowing the frame to come down further to make it easier to clear the body when you roll the frame out.
Mark
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George,
Then the rear end can be raised up tighter into the frame, allowing the frame to come down further to make it easier to clear the body when you roll the frame out.
Mark
Oh.
That doesn't make it any easier to remove the body from the frame, does it?
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Don't think of it as only raising the body. You can also lower the frame, removing the springs allow you to do that.
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It's off the frame; still gotta get it a little higher to clear the wheels/tires.
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George,
Take the front wheels off and roll it out on the floor jack, put the jack under the front crossmember.
Looks like it's plenty high.
Mark
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Now I have to figure out what to do next. I don' have any place to store the frame, so my plan was to roll it out, work on the body, then roll it back in.
I will need to find someone that can blast the frame and paint it; but first, I need to remove all the suspension and steering.
Then, I need to determine the order of reassembly, for the frame:
Suspension/steering (disc-brake kit)
Brake lines
Motor/trans/driveline
Body mount bushings
Am I missing anything?
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George,
The attached list should help get you started.
Disassemble it all to the bare frame (I assume you are keeping track of, or bagging & tagging all parts).
To begin reassembly, start with the suspension, front & rear control arms, springs, front spindles and the rear end.
Everything else builds from that.
Mark
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Once stripped down the frame can be stood up on its side to save space. You just need to tie it off to something like a wall.
With space being an issue I would not get the frame blasted and painted unti your ready for it.
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Dear George, Mark, and mid-60s Buick restorers,
It's off the frame; still gotta get it a little higher to clear the wheels/tires.
Well congratulations!! :hello2: That was a bit of a struggle for a first time out and you handled the situation well. Give yourself a well deserved pat on the back! :icon_thumright:
Then, I need to determine the order of reassembly, for the frame:
Have you thought about buying the Faxon reprint of the 1965 Buick assembly manual? It's mentioned in this thread:
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=3252.msg22341#msg22341 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=3252.msg22341#msg22341)
I got my copy a few days ago and I'm utterly floored with the amount of detailed information to be found within it. Just as an example that surprised me personally, did you know that the drive shaft for the Buick A-Bodies is different for the wagons than the other body styles? Of course you wouldn't have been concerned, but I could have been in for a very unpleasant surprise! :angryfire:
It is a page after page of details diagrams of how things fit together. It should really come in handy when you find yourself with all the parts and . . . . want to put the car back together - preferably without too many leftover pieces laying around!! :BangHead:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Dear George, Mark, and mid-60s Buick restorers,
It's off the frame; still gotta get it a little higher to clear the wheels/tires.
Well congratulations!! :hello2: That was a bit of a struggle for a first time out and you handled the situation well. Give yourself a well deserved pat on the back! :icon_thumright:
Then, I need to determine the order of reassembly, for the frame:
Have you thought about buying the Faxon reprint of the 1965 Buick assembly manual? It's mentioned in this thread:
[url]http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=3252.msg22341#msg22341[/url] ([url]http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=3252.msg22341#msg22341[/url])
I got my copy a few days ago and I'm utterly floored with the amount of detailed information to be found within it. Just as an example that surprised me personally, did you know that the drive shaft for the Buick A-Bodies is different for the wagons than the other body styles? Of course you wouldn't have been concerned, but I could have been in for a very unpleasant surprise! :angryfire:
It is a page after page of details diagrams of how things fit together. It should really come in handy when you find yourself with all the parts and . . . . want to put the car back together - preferably without too many leftover pieces laying around!! :BangHead:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
That will definitely help - Thanks!
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I came across some of those DIY rotisseries, made out of wood. Looks pretty inexpensive. Sure would be nice to have the car on it's side...
I am not sure how I would go about securing it, and making sure it would not tweak the body, especially since it's a convertible.
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I came across some of those DIY rotisseries, made out of wood. Looks pretty inexpensive. Sure would be nice to have the car on it's side...
I am not sure how I would go about securing it, and making sure it would not tweak the body, especially since it's a convertible.
Anyone here built their own rotisserie?
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Here is a link to 35chevcoupe's thread.
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=2107.135 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=2107.135)
There are a couple of pictures of the one he built.
Loren
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I looked through that thread; didn't see how the car body is attached to the rotisserie. I wouldn't mind doing something like that, however, mine would be a lot more primitive. In reality, I would just need to tilt the car up about 45 degrees, that would allow me to get at the underside easily.
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The arms go under the body and are attached with bolts at the original mounting points. Two in the front and then two in the rear.
Loren
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The arms go under the body and are attached with bolts at the original mounting points. Two in the front and then two in the rear.
Loren
Thanks Loren.
Of course, what could be simpler?
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How do you get to the body mount hardware above the rear wheel? It looks like it's boxed-in.
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George, could you post a picture of the area you're asking about. I think you're referring to mount 5 but I'm not sure.
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George, could you post a picture of the area you're asking about. I think you're referring to mount 5 but I'm not sure.
Yes, #5.
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I came across some of those DIY rotisseries, made out of wood. Looks pretty inexpensive. Sure would be nice to have the car on it's side...
I am not sure how I would go about securing it, and making sure it would not tweak the body, especially since it's a convertible.
Anyone here built their own rotisserie?
I built mine you can see it in my pictures. I made mine steer but you don't have to do that.
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I came across some of those DIY rotisseries, made out of wood. Looks pretty inexpensive. Sure would be nice to have the car on it's side...
I am not sure how I would go about securing it, and making sure it would not tweak the body, especially since it's a convertible.
Anyone here built their own rotisserie?
I built mine you can see it in my pictures. I made mine steer but you don't have to do that.
How do I see your pics?
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Dear George, Morrie, and mid-60s fans of "barbecued bodies," . . . . .
How do I see your pics?
Here is at least one post where you can see Morrie's "barbecue rotisserie":
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=2546.msg15851#msg15851 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=2546.msg15851#msg15851)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Dear George, Morrie, and mid-60s fans of "barbecued bodies," . . . . .
How do I see your pics?
Here is at least one post where you can see Morrie's "barbecue rotisserie":
[url]http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=2546.msg15851#msg15851[/url] ([url]http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=2546.msg15851#msg15851[/url])
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
Thanks!
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If you want I think I still have the Blue Prints. Some where, We are in the process of so ever thing kind of in a shambles.
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They are on the net Red Wing Steel Works, free down load.
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Dear Morrie and mid-60s Buick owners with . . . . "plans!" . . .
They are on the net Red Wing Steel Works, free down load.
Here is the URL for the impatient:
http://redwingsteelworks.com/ (http://redwingsteelworks.com/)
Interesting site with a number of plans including plans to build your own utility trailer.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Is there an easy way to remove/ replace the nuts?
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Dear Morrie and mid-60s Buick owners with . . . . "plans!" . . .
They are on the net Red Wing Steel Works, free down load.
Here is the URL for the impatient:
[url]http://redwingsteelworks.com/[/url] ([url]http://redwingsteelworks.com/[/url])
Interesting site with a number of plans including plans to build your own utility trailer.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
More roam to hall Buick parts
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Is there an easy way to remove/ replace the nuts?
I have used "Kano Kroil" for anything that is rusted, galvanic corroded, or otherwise stuck. Stuff is the bee's knees.
In the middle of a frame on 1964 Skylark convertible restoration, engine, tranny, rear end swap and complete replacement of suspension and brakes, to include pulling the windshield.
As can be imagined, there are a lot of parts that are 53 years old and have never been touched.
I put a drop or two, let it set 5 minutes, it will break free and most of the time I can use my fingers to remove the bolts.
Yesterday I was prepping to remove the windshield and the top of the windshield bow chrome trim are 6 screws that hold the trim.
They were so badly rusted, that the cross points were no longer able to get a screwdriver in them.
I took my time to drill the heads off and then pulled the trim. There was not enough shank to get purchase with vise grips so I figured I would drill and use an "E-Z out". I tried to drill them and ended up "work hardening" them and the drill bits would not bite. (drill trigger hard to control speed)
It was late and I did not want to leave it, so I put Kroil on them and then used a chisel and was able to get enough at the edge to slowly tap and turn them out enough to get them with vise grips. Took about 15 minutes to remove all of them and no damage.
So, pardon my unsolicited "pitch", but I know many folks either damage something trying to strong arm things, or resort to torch heating.
Since a lot of what we deal with are parts no longer made, piss poor reproductions, expensive decent reproductions or "YGTBFKM?!!! overpriced NOS (we all know know that guy is...) I wanted to pass along the info.
No affiliation except using the stuff.
http://www.kanolabs.com (http://www.kanolabs.com)
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Is there an easy way to remove/ replace the nuts?
I have used "Kano Kroil" for anything that is rusted, galvanic corroded, or otherwise stuck. Stuff is the bee's knees.
In the middle of a frame on 1964 Skylark convertible restoration, engine, tranny, rear end swap and complete replacement of suspension and brakes, to include pulling the windshield.
As can be imagined, there are a lot of parts that are 53 years old and have never been touched.
I put a drop or two, let it set 5 minutes, it will break free and most of the time I can use my fingers to remove the bolts.
Yesterday I was prepping to remove the windshield and the top of the windshield bow chrome trim are 6 screws that hold the trim.
They were so badly rusted, that the cross points were no longer able to get a screwdriver in them.
I took my time to drill the heads off and then pulled the trim. There was not enough shank to get purchase with vise grips so I figured I would drill and use an "E-Z out". I tried to drill them and ended up "work hardening" them and the drill bits would not bite. (drill trigger hard to control speed)
It was late and I did not want to leave it, so I put Kroil on them...
[url]http://www.kanolabs.com[/url] ([url]http://www.kanolabs.com[/url])
I will try the kano Kroil. A friend of mine uses water.
I have some broken, badly rusted bolts/nuts; no way to salvage these.
I think I will need to chisel-out the little cover keeping the nuts in place. What else can you do?
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Looks like they might be "blind nuts".
Is the cage spot welded over the nut all the way around?
If not, you might be able to pry of cut one edge off and slip the old nut out and put a new one in.
And if you do chisel them off, keep the cages and spot weld them back on, unless you can gain access to hold them when you reassemble, or if you ever need to disassemble.
I also use "Evapo Rust", on nuts, bolts and other things to remove rust. It only removes the oxidation and most parts are remarkebly useful rather than using blasting, acids, sanding and wire brush.
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Dear Michael, George, and mid-60s Buick warriors against rust!
I also use "Evapo Rust", on nuts, bolts and other things to remove rust. It only removes the oxidation and most parts are remarkebly useful rather than using blasting, acids, sanding and wire brush.
Would this be the outfit?
http://www.evapo-rust.com/ (http://www.evapo-rust.com/)
Here is the material safety data sheet on the stuff:
http://www.evapo-rust.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Evapo-Rust-Safety-Data-Sheet-2015.pdf (http://www.evapo-rust.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Evapo-Rust-Safety-Data-Sheet-2015.pdf)
Glancing over the material safety data sheet the good news is that it appears to be as safe as they claim. The bad news is that they don't give away any secrets on how the stuff works! I must admit I'm more than a little curious!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Looks like they might be "blind nuts".
Is the cage spot welded over the nut all the way around?
If not, you might be able to pry of cut one edge off and slip the old nut out and put a new one in.
And if you do chisel them off, keep the cages and spot weld them back on, unless you can gain access to hold them when you reassemble, or if you ever need to disassemble.
I also use "Evapo Rust", on nuts, bolts and other things to remove rust. It only removes the oxidation and most parts are remarkebly useful rather than using blasting, acids, sanding and wire brush.
So, you cannot use the EvapoRust as a penetrating fluid?
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Well, that depends.
The metal needs to be wet for hours to days to remove the oxidation. And I am not sure how well it penetrates mated parts.
But you give me a challenge. I will find something "crusty" to toss in the vat and see how it works as a "penetrating" solution.
The Evapo-rust works by immersion or "wetted" material. For example, my glove box door was rusted and the cost of enough product to submerge the whle door was more that I wanted to spend, so I laid if flat in a pyrex baking dish and poured enough E-R to cover most of the door adn then used Scott Paper towels to cover the stop/support arm and the other parts of the door sticking up out of the solution, and it "wicked" and kept the surface wet. A few days later I pulled it out and rinsed it off.
So, iot you have a surface area you need to use it one, applying a cloth and keeping it moistened with E-R and covering that with plastic wrap to slow evaporation, I think you could work large areas of surface rust.
I tossed the rollers from the seat tracks and several other orange rusted nuts, bolts and such in there and they came out a few days later, clean and bright.
I think it is an ionization, and the "rust" is removed and "drops" as sediment to the bottom of the container. I agitate the container every once in awhile when I think of it, and then let it set a day and "decant" the solution carefully to avoid pouring the sediment back into the container. I have used 2 gallons for the past three months on quite a bit of items, and it still is working.
It seems to "slow down" after several uses, but still working.
No damage or negatives to anything, except that it looks like it "parkerized" some washers that I had in with chrome bumper bolts. so, dissimilar metals might be a problem with anode/cathode reaction.
It has no real odor, is not volatile, not an acid, and if you spill any, it wipes up with a damp sponge, even if it dries.
It is worth buying and trying just to see it work. You can use it one tools as well.
Hope that helps.