Removing the body from the frame - question

[nail lark]

I use 2x4 on flat stacked cris cross on a square . You can make them as tall as you want. But I would recommend 16" at the max. I made a number of them  2 - 16"2 -12" 2 -8 " 2-4"  . They are all 12" square. They are quite strong . And last a long time. you don't have to worry about them scattering . That is what they use to hold up houses when they are moving or building. It will take you a few hours to make them but they will last forever. 2x4 doesn't cost much. For 50 bucks you will have a full set and last you forever.

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Here's what I have so far, cinder blocks and two 4x6.
What you guys think?

[Loren At 65GS]

Looks like what I have done more then once. By removing the rear wheels and rear springs, it can be pulled out using a floor jack under the differential. I  place the cross piece [4X4] in the rear through the wheel well opening and the front one where the front body mounts are.

 Just another way of doing the same thing,
   Loren

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Looks like what I have done more then once. By removing the rear wheels and rear springs, it can be pulled out using a floor jack under the differential. I  place the cross piece [4X4] in the rear through the wheel well opening and the front one where the front body mounts are.
Why do I need to remove the springs?
 Just another way of doing the same thing,
   Loren

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Not sure if I posted that right.
Why do I need to remove the rear springs?

[Mark Ascher]

George,

Then the rear end can be raised up tighter into the frame, allowing the frame to come down further to make it easier to clear the body when you roll the frame out.

Mark

[Polishmeatballpizza]

George,

Then the rear end can be raised up tighter into the frame, allowing the frame to come down further to make it easier to clear the body when you roll the frame out.

Mark

Oh.
That doesn't make it any easier to remove the body from the frame, does it?

[Rollaround]

Don't think of it as only raising the body. You can also lower the frame, removing the springs allow you to do that.

[Polishmeatballpizza]

It's off the frame; still gotta get it a little higher to clear the wheels/tires.

[Mark Ascher]

George,

Take the front wheels off and roll it out on the floor jack, put the jack under the front crossmember.
Looks like it's plenty high.

Mark

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Now I have to figure out what to do next. I don' have any place to store the frame, so my plan was to roll it out, work on the body, then roll it back in.

I will need to find someone that can blast the frame and paint it; but first, I need to remove all the suspension and steering.

Then, I need to determine the order of reassembly, for the frame:

Suspension/steering (disc-brake kit)
Brake lines
Motor/trans/driveline
Body mount bushings

Am I missing anything?

[Mark Ascher]

George,

The attached list should help get you started.

Disassemble it all to the bare frame (I assume you are keeping track of, or bagging & tagging all parts).
To begin reassembly, start with the suspension, front & rear control arms, springs, front spindles and the rear end.
Everything else builds from that.

Mark

[Rollaround]

Once stripped down the frame can be stood up on its side to save space.  You just need to tie it off to something like a wall.
With space being an issue I would not get the frame blasted and painted unti your ready for it.

[elagache]

Dear George, Mark, and mid-60s Buick restorers,

It's off the frame; still gotta get it a little higher to clear the wheels/tires.

Well congratulations!!   That was a bit of a struggle for a first time out and you handled the situation well.  Give yourself a well deserved pat on the back! 

Then, I need to determine the order of reassembly, for the frame:

Have you thought about buying the Faxon reprint of the 1965 Buick assembly manual?  It's mentioned in this thread:

http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=3252.msg22341#msg22341

I got my copy a few days ago and I'm utterly floored with the amount of detailed information to be found within it.   Just as an example that surprised me personally, did you know that the drive shaft for the Buick A-Bodies is different for the wagons than the other body styles?  Of course you wouldn't have been concerned, but I could have been in for a very unpleasant surprise! 

It is a page after page of details diagrams of how things fit together.  It should really come in handy when you find yourself with all the parts and . . . . want to put the car back together - preferably without too many leftover pieces laying around!! 

Cheers, Edouard 

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Dear George, Mark, and mid-60s Buick restorers,

It's off the frame; still gotta get it a little higher to clear the wheels/tires.

Well congratulations!!   That was a bit of a struggle for a first time out and you handled the situation well.  Give yourself a well deserved pat on the back! 

Then, I need to determine the order of reassembly, for the frame:

Have you thought about buying the Faxon reprint of the 1965 Buick assembly manual?  It's mentioned in this thread:

http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=3252.msg22341#msg22341

I got my copy a few days ago and I'm utterly floored with the amount of detailed information to be found within it.   Just as an example that surprised me personally, did you know that the drive shaft for the Buick A-Bodies is different for the wagons than the other body styles?  Of course you wouldn't have been concerned, but I could have been in for a very unpleasant surprise! 

It is a page after page of details diagrams of how things fit together.  It should really come in handy when you find yourself with all the parts and . . . . want to put the car back together - preferably without too many leftover pieces laying around!! 

Cheers, Edouard 

That will definitely help - Thanks!