Winter Update

[Bigpig455]

Making some progress on the Gran Sport.....

1. Got rid of the air shocks - replaced them with some Gabriel Load Carrier coil over shocks. Restored a couple of inches of ride height (see photo) until I can do the rear springs

2. Ran It! - Got out my trusty G-Tech Accelerometer and headed out to my secret 1/4 mile to establish a baseline - Launched @ 2000 rpm, 15.6 @ 94 with no tuning (fresh carb, 17 shaky inches of vacuum, two fouled plugs and timing at factory spec) and LOTS of wheelspin.

3. Tuned it - Fresh plugs, vacuum set timing to 20 steady inches (about 10 degrees? No pinging anyway) and dialed in carb.  Runs awesome....


Went out to do my sunday AM test and tune this AM and it was snowing.... Gonna have to hold off until the roads dry out - in the meantime I'm cleaning up a new 7 blade clutch fan unit, maybe this thing wont sound like a Cessna anymore..

Two outstanding issues -

Thinking about traction and installing a Richmond Powertrax posi unit. Looks good on paper, has anyone ever used one? It is essentially a locker, with a provision to break free on turns...kinda finky when compared to a traditional LSD unit.....

Voltage fluctuates at idle, lights kinda pulsate and dim intermittantly. The shope manual gives a whole diagnostic procedure that winds up with cleaning the regulator contacts - has anyone ever had this happen in their car? How did you clear it up?

Thanks again -  Rhett

[sjfd04]

On the pulsating at idle, check the battery ground, I ran another ground cable from the block to the frame. That solved the problem, when the ground wire runs from the battery to the block or alternator bracket, you are grounding through the rubber motor mounts. By running that second ground, you are grounding to the frame.  If that does not do it, convert to a single wire alternator and eliminate the voltage regulator in favor of an internal regulator in the alternator.

[WkillGS]

Thinking about traction and installing a Richmond Powertrax posi unit. Looks good on paper, has anyone ever used one? It is essentially a locker, with a provision to break free on turns...kinda finky when compared to a traditional LSD unit.....

One of the most knowledgeable guys i know of goes by 'Monzaz' on the V8 board. He should be able to match or beat pricing from the mail-order houses. He has a website here:
http://www.jdrace.com/
There's a forum there too. A couple posts are about GS rears.
 

[Bigpig455]

Thanks to everyone for the quick responses - I'll try the auxilliary ground and see if that helps.

One last question -

Has anyone used a K&N air filter (P/N E-1910) in a stock 401 Air cleaner housing? I'd like to try one, but all the photos of the K&N show it does not have the extended top lip that forms the gasket between the air cleaner lid and the housing. If it's close without that lip I'm good, but if there's a huge gap, then I'll stick with the stock type filer..

Thanks again, Rhett

[Chris]

Hi Rhett,

http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,430.0.html

I'm running one on my convertible and I personally like it.

I was really impressed by the change of tone from the engine sound.

As the replacment paper filters get harder and harder to find, spending the $70 on a reusable filter makes more sense.

Chris

[Bigpig455]

Thanks Chris - I'll have to track one down...the fit works out at the top of the air cleaner?

Right now I'm having the trans resealed - it wound up down at the tranny shop because it would not shift out of first. I checked the modulator lines and such but they checked out good, so I figured it was something in the valve body..

It's embarrasing I didnt catch it, but the throttle position sensor had come loose at the manifold, shortened up and the car thought it was permanantly floored....

Well, since it was there I figured pull it and reseal it, cause it was leaking fluid from just about everywhere it could - I had tried a pint of brake fluid to swell the seals, but no dice..

After that, I'm doing the brake and fuel lines, and a little welding on the frame while their out... I've got 2-3 holes about the size of a quarter on either rail that need to be cut out, and I'd like to clean up some prior work done along the bottom..

The brake lines the car came with are flat dangerous, with compression fittings and lying right ON the lower control arm.... and a single master cylinder to boot, I cringed every time I drove the car..

The fuel line was no better, just one long hose twist tied to the brake line..at least that wasn't leaking or cracked.

I got the full set from Inline Tube, looks to be a great product with all correct bends and shielding. Now I just have to figure out how to snale all this back over the upper shock mounts without lifting the body...Wish me luck..

Thanks - Rhett

[Loren At 65GS]

I got the full set from Inline Tube, looks to be a great product with all correct bends and shielding. Now I just have to figure out how to snale all this back over the upper shock mounts without lifting the body...Wish me luck..
[/quote]

Best of luck with that , Rhett

Loren

[Brian]

You can install the rear brake line with the body on the car since it terminates in front of the crossmember over the rear axle, but you won't get the fuel lines in with the body on.  Tried that before and it isn't possible. 

[Bigpig455]

Thanks for the input Brian - What did you wind up doing? Lifting the body or splicing the line?

Rhett