Cleaning original rubber pieces

[Loren At 65GS]

I tried something different yesterday for cleaning a couple of original rubber pieces. I've found it difficult to get original rubber pieces to clean up well. Yesterday, I tried something different. I used CLR. It is a product for removing Calcium, Lime and Rust. I soaked these rear bumper rubber pads in it overnight. I was surprised by how clean they came out and seem to be more flexible as well.
 Thought i would pass this on for others that reuse some original rubber parts. Attached are before and after pictures.

  Loren

[Jimbo65]

Good to know info.

[elagache]

Dear Loren and mid-60s Buick restorers,

I tried something different yesterday for cleaning a couple of original rubber pieces. I've found it difficult to get original rubber pieces to clean up well. Yesterday, I tried something different. I used CLR. It is a product for removing Calcium, Lime and Rust. I soaked these rear bumper rubber pads in it overnight. I was surprised by how clean they came out and seem to be more flexible as well.
 Thought i would pass this on for others that reuse some original rubber parts. Attached are before and after pictures.

Very interesting Loren!  I assume this is the product in question:

https://clrbrands.com/Products/CLR-Household/CLR-Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover

. . . . Okay, I'll admit I just made a terrible mistake - I read the instructions! . . .

At first inspection, the stuff seems really aggressive.  So that sent me to the product safety data sheet where my rusty memories of college chemistry promptly proved inadequate.  All I could locate was the PH. This product is different from many cleaners in that it is mildly acidic. Most degreasers are caustic (high PH.)

Having failed, I went back to the product description where here is a list of ingredients and what they do in "plain language."  There are the usual degreasing ingredients.  Then there are two ingredients described as  "Chelating Agent."  I never heard of this sort of chemistry either.  So that sent me on another web search where Wikipedia describes it as: roughly a chemical process to convert metal oxides (rust) into something that is soluble in water (allowing you wash it away.)

The product page also describe the product as part of the EPA’s Safer Choice Program, so this is less harmful than other products that could be used for cleaning.

So you have made a very interesting discovery Loren!     I'm not sure what else it could be used for, but it certainly would be worth doing some experimenting to see what other parts could be rescued by this sort of chemistry. 

Thanks for sharing!

Cheers, Edouard 

[gssizzler]

Very good to know and useful instead of being destructive! Never thought of trying CLR on rubber parts!

[option B9]

   Thanks Loren, That's good information, I've seen it on the shelf at my local hardware store but never purchased it because here in NYC we don't have a calcium or lime problem in our water.
     Since we are on the subject of chemicals.  Last summer my neighbor (a HVAC Engineer) gave me a spray can of Aerokroil, he said "It's a real good lubricant"  I used it in the garage on many different projects and it works much better than WD40. My overhead garage door constantly squeaked,  I would spray it with WD40 the squeak would go away for several days then return. I tried spraying it with the Aerokroil, and it's just over a year now that the squeak is gone. Works really well on rusty bolts. I even tried it as a cutting fluid when tapping a thread. It seems to do it all, the only drawback is that it does have a strong odor so I wear gloves when using it. and it's very expensive . A 13oz spray can is $18.50 at a local hardware store (not a big box store) so I buy the 8oz non aerosol can for $13.00  it has a flip top oil can tip so there is less waste. I still use WD40 in my pump bottle to clean and protect my tools & fishing equipment, but the Kroil is used on hardware and moving parts.

    Tony 

[elagache]

. . . .
Last summer my neighbor (a HVAC Engineer) gave me a spray can of Aerokroil, he said "It's a real good lubricant" 

Uh oh!  I never heard of this stuff!  . . . Time for another combing of the web.

Well for starters, since Tony bought his can the name has been changed (why?  good question!  )  It is now called: "Kroil Original Penetrant oil."  Here is the link to product description on the manufacturer's website:

https://www.kroil.com/products/kroil-original-penetrant-best-penetrating-oil/

As is my sneaking way, the next stop is the material safety data sheets.  Oops!  Mysteriously there is a separate MSDS for Aerokroil, although as far as I can tell the only difference is that the Aerokroll has a carbon dioxide propellant.  The company insists they haven't changed the formulation so you can buy the same product that Tony has (and has been sold since before World War II).

I used it in the garage on many different projects and it works much better than WD40.
. . . . .
It seems to do it all, the only drawback is that it does have a strong odor so I wear gloves when using it. and it's very expensive.

Reading the testimonials it appears this company has made their reputation in various demanding industries.  So if they can charge what they do large companies - we'll just have to pay the going rate!

The only thing I noticed is that they have a second product that might be better when it comes to long term protection:  Kroil Penetrant with Silicone - here is the product page:

https://www.kroil.com/products/kroil-penetrant-with-silicone-best-penetrating-oil/

It might be worth having both in your lubricant arsenal.

Thanks for the recommendation Tony! 

Cheers, Edouard 

[option B9]

  Hi Edouard, Thanks for posting the Kroil website, Yes I see the cans have a new look. The 8oz can of Kroil I purchased yesterday has the older logo. I'm sure at that price it's a slow moving item. I also checked out the second website you listed for the Kroil with Silicone. But there are no distributors in my immediate area, so I will have to do some searching. If not I will use what I have since it works great on everything.

          Tony 

[elagache]

Dear Tony and mid-60s Buick caregivers who have to take care of their human needs as well,

. . . .
I also checked out the second website you listed for the Kroil with Silicone. But there are no distributors in my immediate area, so I will have to do some searching. If not I will use what I have since it works great on everything.

Not that it would be my preferred choice either, but you cannot find Kroil Penetrant with Silicone locally, of course Amazon and other online merchants carries it.

Alas, it appears that COVID is managing to muster a second-wind.  As much as we all would prefer to patronize our local businesses, that has to be tempered by the risks associated with being in public places.

Oh well,  . . . . . Edouard

[elagache]

Dear mid-60s Buick caregivers who like "slick solutions," . . . 

I confess, I got them online, but I did finally get my hands on Kroil lubricants.  I took a picture of the two cans:



Kroil has increased the size of the spray cans.  I suppose that makes good sense for their commercial users, but that makes their products even more out of reach for the average consumer.  I thought it was a bit amusing to see the different sale's pitch to be found on the two products.  So the original lubricant is an "industrial size" but the silicone lubricant is a "convenient king size".  So how many kings are out there looking for convenient lubricants? . . . . 

I tried the silicone version on our sectional garage door which hadn't been lubricated in years.  The product worked fine, but alas I didn't notice any different in operation.  At this point our house have moved so much between extreme drought and drenching rains that the door groans some when opening or closing.  Unfortunately, no lubricant can fix that!

Cheers, Edouard 

[Jim]

It's really good on frozen bolts though. Jim