65 Skylark Down Under Restoration

[Aussie Skylark]

Repairs made to trunk section, thanks to Brian for the Donner sections he sold me.
Another photo of my helpful dog Tilly.

[Aussie Skylark]

Dog photo wouldn't work so its the trunk again

[elagache]

Dear Marcus and mid-60s Buick caregivers,

Thanks for all the photos!  Can you tell us the sort of problems you are having uploading photos?  Normally the problem is that the photos are too large, but your photos don't seem unreasonably large.

Yep I can get black background with yellow writing, main difference is it will have Queensland not California as the home state. $480 Aussie dollars.

Well, you are registering the car in Australia - so you'd hope it would have a region of Australia!  Is the $480 the initial registration fee?  I hope you don't have too steep an annual fee.

I'm classing the drive train as toast and planning on rebuilding the entire system. I know it has at best a blown head gasket, there was as much water in the sump as oil when I got it, I put fresh oil in it and ran with no water when I started it. It sounded to be OK, all cylinders fired and there were no horrible noises. I only ran it for a bout 2 minutes and shut it down. The engine and auto are packed away till I finish the sheet metal and paint.

As you say, you are a long way from getting to that aspect of the project, but do you have a trustworthy machine shop available and can you get the parts you need to rebuild the engine?  I assume this is the standard Buick 300 V-8 and ST-300 two speed transmission.

Thanks again for sharing and by all means keep us posted!

Cheers, Edouard 

[Aussie Skylark]

Hi Mid 60's Buick Fans,

I found the photos of my car before it left USA to see if anyone remembers spotting it while it was on ebay this was in early 2015. Somewhere in its travels it lost the Rally wheels and ended up with the hot wires that are currently on it.

Answers to previous questions,
When I attempted to post photos a note came up the web site was not available. seems to be working now.

The drive train is a 300 ci 2 speed auto, there are workshops here one in particular who specialises in Buick V8's, he is also in the same state as me.

The $480 is just to buy the plates there is registration on top of that, I think a V8 registration is around $1300 year. There are options to register with club rego its a lot cheaper, just means restricted driving. you can drive to a club meeting, a car show, a repair shop or within a few miles from home. 

I'm working on floor pans this weekend, hope to get some photos up later. Has anyone had experience with using panel glue to install floor pan sections instead of traditional welding and grinding method? I haven't used any yet, its looking a lot easier than all that welding and grinding. I'm very interested in any advice on gluing steel.

Marcus

[GS66]

Looks like a decent project from your pictures Marcus, thanks for keeping us updated.

[Aussie Skylark]

Hi Guys,
I'm in the process of making repair sections for my floor pan.
Can anyone tell me if the reinforcing groves I have marked with paint pen are needed to support the back seat?

Thought I would ask before I dig the seat from storage and drop it in.

Regards
Marcus

[Aussie Skylark]

Hi Buick Lovers,
I have made up my first floor pan repair patch, not installed yet. I made it from 1 mm mild steel and folded the lines to house the rear wiring harness.

It seems strong enough, I don't think it needs any reinforcing groves.

Any one made these before ? any comments will be appreciated. I know I can buy the repair sections needed but I'm up for $2K to get them here.

Regards
Marcus

[yachtsmanbill]

G'day Marcus! Ive been lurking on yer post here, so Im just as guilty when it comes to ragging about poor response numbers...

Your doing just fine. Sheet metal is weird stuff to work with. Pound for pound , with appropriately placed reinforcements it can become very structural. Keep the pound for pound part going; Without strategic stiffening it can become a floppy piece of sheet metal and no more than a tin can patch. You dont need to overdo it, but a few well placed channels attached to the underside will strengthen it substantially, and get you away from the snare drum syndrome.

I understand your reluctance to weld. Some blokes just dont have the ways or means. Cold working with epoxy is OK for stuff like this; the trick is adhesion and rigidity. Fit the pieces, the apply your adhesive and pop rivet them together before curing. I also use "tech screws" which come in a million sizes and are self drilling. It really boils down to the fact if youre worried about the judges (LOL) seeing the install. I am my own worst judge. As they say, Form follows Function. The only real disadvantage to mechanically fastening is the outward appearance from underneath. This stuff is pretty sound after curing. In a tube, how easy can it be???

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm

On the sheet metal channel conundrum, find an HVAC or aluminum house siding guy that can bend stuff in a sheet metal break. I bought a cheap chinaman knock off at Harbor Fright here. With a 24 inch capacity it handles most of what I need to do, better than hammering a break over a 2x4 in the vise. Good luck and dont give up the ship!   Bill

[elagache]

Dear Marcus, Jim, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,

I'm glad that you found ways to post photos and thanks for the updates!

The $480 is just to buy the plates there is registration on top of that, I think a V8 registration is around $1300 year. There are options to register with club rego its a lot cheaper, just means restricted driving. you can drive to a club meeting, a car show, a repair shop or within a few miles from home. 

Sorry to hear that the annual registration fee is so steep.  It seems silly to charge such a high premium for a V-8 on a 54 year old car.  No matter how enthusiastic you are, you just cannot drive a classic that many miles.  Alas, common sense and law don't always coincide.

Keep the updates coming! 

Cheers, Edouard 

[Aussie Skylark]

Gidday Edouard, Bill and other Mid 60's Buick fans,

Thanks for your replies,

Bill,  you answered my questions. I have only found out about using panel glue instead of welding. I have a welder, grinder, sander ect and can use them however being advised by a local panel beater here about glue, and how well it works made me think how may hours I can save for the cost of a tube of glue. You are exactly right it comes down to the "Judges" and I too am my worst. I break it down to my scope for this project, I'm not building a show car, I'm building a good old driver that I can jump in start and drive. As for the pound for pound bit, I hear you there. I have a folding press, I used it to fold the black section in photo. I was also a plumber in a previous life so I have folded and cut my fair share of sheet metal, I'm driving my neighbours mad at the moment tap tap tap. I have made ply wood patterns with a router and dressing metal into the pattern, it works just a bit slow.......but free.

Edouard, I plan to pay for standard registration when I first get the car on the road, then proceed to drive the wheels off it. Following that I will go for club registration, I think its only a few hundred $$. My biggest problem is hoping there is still plenty of fuel around when I need it Ha.

Back to the tap tap tap, any more advice will be appreciated.

Marcus

[WkillGS]

Hello Marcus,
    The best forum for autobody I know of is
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

I do a fair amount of metal fab and welding but have not yet used panel adhesive, nor have I studied much about it. I have read very good things about it.

For metal fab, I've found a bead roller and a shrinker/stretcher set to be very helpful.
Like most, I started fab using basic hammer/dollies and a vise to bend and form metal. The bead roller can be very versatile, especially when doing a curved bend.... but the metal will then need to be shrunk/stretched to maintain proper form.

Those rear seat channels are likely just to stiffen the panel and reduce noise. You could likely do without, or add a reinforcement rib by tack welding or gluing something on. Using a body hammer and a form is another method.

[Aussie Skylark]

Hi Readers,
I've spent a few days working on my Skylark replacing the trunk floor that was rusted out. I made the floor out of steel sheet, not an original look but will suit my needs. Happy to read your comments on my work.
Marcus

[Aussie Skylark]

Floor removed

[Aussie Skylark]

New floor in and ready for paint

[Aussie Skylark]

There was bad rust here where the trunk catch bracket was welded to the floor. I managed to cut it out and slide a new section in fairly easy.