Secret experimental 1964 GX 455

[GS66]

I will probably be stripping paint next summer too on the project car so will remember the razor. So far I have hit one small spot with just steel wool and found bare metal.

[yachtsmanbill]

Just watched this Walt... pretty interesting. Gotta keep it C-O-O-L in between. Ever use one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGMUEXGiySA


Some other throne room reading... Im game to try something new.

https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/saving-steel-incredible-shrinking-disc-can-save-valuable-old-metal

Mulled it over last night and looked at it again this morning and decided to take the cut off wheel to it and begin from scratch. This is probably one of the most complicated forms on the whole car. Compound radius's along with compound curves all mixed in on a less than flat plane to start from. The 200 ton smasher and a die would make short work outa this, so I'm stuck with fabricating each radius as I go. The big radius in front of the bumper was done in a vise with a 1/2" piece of pipe and clamp the sheet metal to the pipe with vise grips. A lot of tapping went on to get the form close. Theres gonna be a spot or two where Ill cheat and swipe some bondo in the corner with my finger. Sorry Judges; Ive got a lot of fish fryin' right now and need to get a move-on.

Ill be sooo glad when this part is done. Guys bitch about the cost of a paint job... so do the math; Im into this part with the back window, trunk floor, and a bunch of smalls for about etc for about 80 hours so far, plus the materials (electric, natural gas for heat and MIG gas and wire are all extras) for a stupid flat rate of 40.00/hour makes about 3200.00 so far and its about 1/2 way there, not including paint. Sooo, in real life where the labor rate is closer to 100.00/hour is gonna send ya for an EKG! Stay with it!   Bill

[elagache]

Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,

. . . . .
Ill be sooo glad when this part is done. Guys bitch about the cost of a paint job... so do the math; Im into this part with the back window, trunk floor, and a bunch of smalls for about etc for about 80 hours so far, plus the materials (electric, natural gas for heat and MIG gas and wire are all extras) for a stupid flat rate of 40.00/hour makes about 3200.00 so far and its about 1/2 way there, not including paint. Sooo, in real life where the labor rate is closer to 100.00/hour is gonna send ya for an EKG! Stay with it!   Bill

You are so right!  If you want restore an old car and really have it turn out nice you have sweat every last detail.  The choice is yours: invest your time or invest in somebody else's time!  Lucky for you, you are enjoying at least the overall process.  So the occasional painful episodes are ultimately worthwhile.

Keep up the good work!

Cheers, Edouard 

[GranSportSedan]

Just watched this Walt... pretty interesting. Gotta keep it C-O-O-L in between. Ever use one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGMUEXGiySA


Some other throne room reading... Im game to try something new.

https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/saving-steel-incredible-shrinking-disc-can-save-valuable-old-metal

Mulled it over last night and looked at it again this morning and decided to take the cut off wheel to it and begin from scratch. This is probably one of the most complicated forms on the whole car. Compound radius's along with compound curves all mixed in on a less than flat plane to start from. The 200 ton smasher and a die would make short work outa this, so I'm stuck with fabricating each radius as I go. The big radius in front of the bumper was done in a vise with a 1/2" piece of pipe and clamp the sheet metal to the pipe with vise grips. A lot of tapping went on to get the form close. Theres gonna be a spot or two where Ill cheat and swipe some bondo in the corner with my finger. Sorry Judges; Ive got a lot of fish fryin' right now and need to get a move-on.

Ill be sooo glad when this part is done. Guys bitch about the cost of a paint job... so do the math; Im into this part with the back window, trunk floor, and a bunch of smalls for about etc for about 80 hours so far, plus the materials (electric, natural gas for heat and MIG gas and wire are all extras) for a stupid flat rate of 40.00/hour makes about 3200.00 so far and its about 1/2 way there, not including paint. Sooo, in real life where the labor rate is closer to 100.00/hour is gonna send ya for an EKG! Stay with it!   Bill

I admire you for being willing to take the task on yourself. you're correct in stating stuff like this is why paint jobs cost so much. cool video on heat shrinking. I may put it to good use in the future

[yachtsmanbill]

I have several Bernzomatics' (the clicker start type) and the flame is about a 2" diameter spread. I dug out the old caveman unit with a sharp point on the flame to control where the heat is to a finer control. have a wet rag handy to immediately control the temp once the flame is off the area. aught on to the process right away.

Finshed up the better part of fabbing the filler patches. The very bottom one took some doing with a multi radius, ins and outs, and backwards turns. Thats gonna have to get filled with glass. TFB! harbor Fright has a Spectrum HVLP gun which comps out to a decent DeVilbiss for 129.00 and a 25% discount coupon for new years so Im gonna pic one up. My other suction cup guns are 30-40 years old and got put away dirty. Time to man up this time.

Heres some pics of the final metal work. and some black primer on the quarter panel with zero filler on it. Its pretty darn close to being propper.   Bill

[yachtsmanbill]

Being as anal (or is that an a$$?) that I am, I wasnt quite satisfied with the 1/4 panel repair... yet. To be honest with you, the sensory thing in the fingertips is waning, and I cant just rely on feel any more. Its lousy fingers, poor eyesight, and a lot of proof spray to I.D. the bad spots.

The final took three times of priming, ID'ing , stripping and refilling and filing to get it right; but Im good with it now. What a royal pain!  Happy New Year years guys! Bill in frosty Deux Rivieres

[cwmcobra]

Nice work Bill.  I know it was a pain, but it will kick up your pride and gratification level every time you see that panel and think of "before"!

Happy New Year to all!

 

Chuck

[GS66]

Nice work indeed!

[elagache]

Dear Bill, Chuck, Jim, and fastidious mid-60s Buick caregivers,

I wasnt quite satisfied with the 1/4 panel repair... yet. . . . . . .

That's all the reason you really need.  After all it is your car!  You would never forgive yourself if you cut corners and ended up staring at a blemish every time you passed the car.

The final took three times of priming, ID'ing , stripping and refilling and filing to get it right; but Im good with it now. What a royal pain! 

Congratulations!

Happy New Year years guys! Bill in frosty Deux Rivi?res

By all means Happy New Year to you and Pat and also to all the participants of 65GS.com! 

Cheers, Edouard 

[yachtsmanbill]

Anyone have any thoughts on removing the side trim off the Special. The front fender spears snap on. I think the doors have a front and rear screw with clips in between. The rear spears have tips (already removed) and three push ins I can see above the fender tubs. Any "fasteners" inside the rear seat panel. I hate to take more stuff apart!   Bill

[jmos4]

Hi,

Not positive as I haven't looked that close on the Special Deluxe I have, but usually they seem to have a clip with a stud on each end of the moldings and clips in the middle, so I would take a look in the rear window cavity

If you're removing the moldings completely, let me know if you want to sell them as I would be interested

Regards,

[yachtsmanbill]

Just looking at the rears now, theres 3 studs with nuts on the rear spear tip extensions. One nut on the main part forward of that, and forward of those are some oval looking push ins. I hope they dont bust. The trim I have , I am gonna use--- its about 98% good. I have a few spares that need some finesse work that may be for sale. The '64 trim is a one year only and impossible to find. Ive been looking for a year for some nicer stuff. Its aluminum and a shopping cart ding can do a ton of damage.

I'm not for certain right now, but I may replace it all with some self adhesive stuff off a roll. Im sure you are aware the stuff is unobtanium ($$$) but if you email me we can discuss this further. Bill at   yachtsman36@charter.net

Im in the shop now, and all my pics are on the desk top files inside. Let me know.   

[jmos4]

Hi,

Email sent.

Regards,

[yachtsmanbill]

Took all the trim off today and not a single welded stud, Several spring tensioned clips with nuts that go into the trim, and about 30 "bath tub" Nylon push ins.
 The holes for those are only 1/4" x 1/2". The front and back of the door trim had nylon jobs with steel studs and phillips screws. Spent a few hours chasing down affordable paint Rots-o-ruck! The sample is black primer, with navy blue and navy blue metallic on that. So thats my story and I'm sticking with it!  Bill

[yachtsmanbill]

Oh... lest we forget the final quarter panel repair! Today TWO RIVERS, tomorrow, THE SANDER!           Bill