Secret experimental 1964 GX 455

[yachtsmanbill]

So the third world country transplant goes into the pharmacy for a box of rubbers...
"That'll be $9.99 plus tax" replies the pharmacist.


"Plus tax???" was the reply. "I though they rolled on...".,    Bill

[elagache]

Dear Dan, Michael, Bill, and 65GS.com fans of "unexpected meanings" . . . . .

So the third world country transplant goes into the pharmacy for a box of rubbers...
"That'll be $9.99 plus tax" replies the pharmacist.


"Plus tax???" was the reply. "I though they rolled on...".,    Bill

. . . . Ouch!  Groan!  . . . Yuck!!  . . . . . . Garh!!!  . . . . .

Cheers, Edouard 

[schlepcar]

I was thinking all of this is just wrong.....and then he had to remind me that the cowl piece was likely less to buy than it would cost a young lad ($9.99 plus tacks)to remain a free sailor. Inflation hits everyone sooner or later. It is likely cheaper to stay afloat and only come to shore to work on the car hobby.

[yachtsmanbill]

YIKES!! Somehow that really makes sense! Im gonna think about that one for a while LOL...

So, I am in need of 4 stock Buick plug wire clamps that go on the valve cover studs. Ive always liked the stock approach.

Got my new HEI wires today and they were at least two feet TOO long. Unbelievable! So I traded them in for a universal set. Is this the cheapo crimper I need to do the connectors on 8mm wires?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-7-way-Crimper-Tool-For-Spark-Plug-Wires-CT-1-Dyna-Tek-Coils-Wires/360982906920?hash=item540c420828:g:LMkAAOSwwNVTuy2h

Got the brakes done in total sans the bleeding. Thats later. Got the rear springs and shocks done so no more whale rolls on the floor and crud in my eyes! Tomorrow I finally get to start on the core support. Im burning daylight. The boat work kinda starts Thursday for a day here and there.

Got the cowl weatherstrip back on today and managed a quick massage with some tripoli on the stainless. Felt sooo good! Gotta go spend some time with SWMBO!

Bill

[elagache]

Thanks Bill for the progress report and pics!

Keep up da' good work!

Cheers, Edouard 

[yachtsmanbill]

Last few days ive been going through the motions just doing what needs done without much thought. I find myself walking in circles talking TO the radio in the shop. I must be getting MIBBY!

Got the core support MU'd, and the OEM rad is wayyy to far to the engine. I am looking for a 65 and up cross flow unit with the steel top plate that holds the two rubbers(!) and the two bottom saddle for the same. A guy on V8 has a few 66-67s he's parting out that look close.

Spent a few hours yesterday bench bleeding the MC and still get a little air in the tubes. Its a recon Cardone unit; does it need to go back? It sure recirc'd a bunch of dirty juice. Hmm. Never a dull moment ya know.

Rear end should be drip dried by now so I can clean the base and cover and procure a new gasket. Its a 8.2 with a 3:23 gear so thats good.

After a ton of measurements, The drive shaft looks good in the length dept. Today its going in for a front U joint and change the yoke from the 3 seed to the 4 speed. If it still fits after that, Ill pop it out for a rear joint. If not its gonna hafta get cut up in Green Bay.... anudder road trip.  Bill

[cwmcobra]

Hi Bill,

I think I've got a cross flow core support and top bracket.  I'll check and post later today. 

Chuck

[yachtsmanbill]

PM sent!

Thank you sooo much Chuck!! Please let me know what you find. If you want to ship out some pics, that would be great too! Bill at   yachtsman36@charter.net

[Brian]

Bill,
   I don't think changing to the 65 cross-flow core support is going to fix the fan to radiator clearance issue.  Looking at your fan clutch, it looks like you may have the one with the longer shaft.  There is one with a shorter shaft that puts the fan closer to the engine.  Hard to tell from a pic and only seeing one of the clutch options.  If you have them side by side, it is very obvious. 

[yachtsmanbill]

Thanks for getting back to me on this Brian. Right now the fan clutch has about 3/4" to enter and start and tighten the 4 nuts on the studs. Thats almost a 2 index finger job as it is. There is a shorter snout 455 water pump, but that would involve changing all kinds of pulleys for proper depth etc.

The plan is to get a '65-67 3 core cross flow upper support plate, and trim the forward 3-4 inches off and re-drill the 3 mounting holes. The bottom 2 saddles would need to go forward as well. Ill hafta deal with a shroud after the fact. The 64 is a unicorn anyway with this stuff. Its gotten to be a bit more involved than i anticipated.  I'll probably end up going with an aluminum cooler. These guys seem to be about the best bang for the buck. They've responded with ideas but no one mentioned mounting methods. Hmmm.

https://www.championradiators.com/

Here's a few pics with and without the radiator in place, and my neighbors 65 8 second street car. Annuder monster!   Bill

[WkillGS]

Will the rad fit if you lean the top until it is almost touching the upper cross piece? That's how the rads fit in the GS's. They don't lean back like you show.

There are a couple of different top plates for the 65-67 crossflow rads. The GS version (and other hd cooling) have a wider (longer) recess for the insulator to fit the larger side tanks of a 4 row core. The standard top plates have a shorter recess to fit 2 row tanks. 1967 is similar but takes different rummer insulators.

The rad 'holders' are just rubber pieces that hold the rad at the tank/core flange.  They are not sophisticated brackets.
Maybe I can get some pics in the near future.

I have a Griffin 26242 alum rad in one of my cars. The inlets/outlets fit a Nailhead, you will need them in opposite locations. But here it is on Summit's site. You can likely find one the same size (27.5 x 19) with in/out in the correct location for your 455. Both Summit and Jegs have their own branded rads for under $200.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26242-x

I still don't know if it will fit your downflow bottom support cradle. I figured someone else would've explained the difference by now.
 

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Walt... the core support is only loosely bolted in. Its tilting back at the top about an inch or so, Id guess.

 I hate to hang sheet metal while still playing with brakes. So its leaning back at the top far enough for the shroud bolt  to hit the fan tips. That could net me an inch clearance on the top. The best route for me to go is to "S" can the down flow stuff.  Thats soo Flathead V8-ish LOL.  Theres almost 27-3/8" (+ or -) between the the CS uprights. A member here is getting and upper crossflow mount to me.  I figured I can trim some off the front, re-drill the three holes and move it forward so theres about 1/2" between the rad and the CS.  I believe the later lower mounts bolt into the core support lower frame as well. Maybe some notching down there to move them forwards as well. Ideally I'd like to see about 2 inches between the fan and the fins. Make sense?

Luckily, this is a GM project and not some weird dodge or ford where everything fitting is "iffy" at best. I love the input ... please keep it coming. If the front clip were back on, Id have some constants to work with, but for now, Im still measuring "Air".    Bill

 

[yachtsmanbill]

So the core support is installed (90%) so I could install front fenders etc. so I might as well do the sheet metal alignment to see where I'm at. Im gonna take a top plate (is this a "header"?) and trim it forward and redrill the three bolts. I should gain a good 2-3 inches, with later (67ish?) mounts on the bottom also trimmed to move forward. Just trying to get my head outa the box LOL.

The inside dimension between the vertical shroud mounts is 27".  A little trim here or there and some weld tacks, or pop rivets and I think itll be getting there.

Picked up the driveshaft yesterday with two new joints after a trial fit so thats going in today, along with a fresh master cylinder. The brand new chinaman unit wouldn't pump juice to the rears.  Looks like Im gonna hafta go the full 15 rounds for a decision!

Car is on the tires up front and Im liking the stance. The gasser look w/o front inners fenders is temporary. The top hose pic shows the difference from this to the 72's 33" wide radiator. Pretty substantial.

Chuck sent a top plate via Dan A. that I am gonna try to pick up today if the stars align. To both: Thanks for the help.
Give me a call for a reconnoiter. 630 388 8882 Bill

[WkillGS]

,,,, Im gonna take a top plate (is this a "header"?) and trim it forward and redrill the three bolts. I should gain a good 2-3 inches, with later (67ish?) mounts on the bottom also trimmed to move forward.....

When installed as original (65-67), the crossflow rad should be almost touching that upper crossmember. It's not necessary to modify the top plate.

I think the problem with putting a crossflow into a 64 is the depth of the lower saddle/crosspiece? Can anyone confirm?

Here's a pic of the alum rad in a 66. The saddle indent in the top plate/cover is longer for the GS to fit the wider/thicker tanks (see pic). A rubber insulator fits into that saddle (avail from CARS, about $15 ea). That saddle should fit over the tank/core joint, but the alum rad is slightly different dimension so it doesn't match up.

You'll figure this all out once you get the parts there!

[WkillGS]

Instead of the clutch fan, the 7 blade fixed fans work well for me. Will give you more rad clearance.