Plastic radiator

[Super65lark]

Anyone have experience with these plastic radiators? I think mine has had its day.

[elagache]

Dear Iain and mid-60s Buick caregivers,

Anyone have experience with these plastic radiators? I think mine has had its day.

Ouch!  I didn't even know you could get a plastic radiator that would fit our cars.  Do you still have Ruthy's original radiator?  We had Biquette's radiator repaired a few times and that wasn't too expensive.  There are a lot of choices in replacement radiators but none really fit very well.  Perhaps some of the other 65GS.com folks can chime in on what they have done.  Biquette now has the TA-Performance aluminum radiator.

http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=398

At the time I searched it was the only one I could find that was guaranteed to fit with out any modifications.  However, it is serious overkill for Ruthy.  Hopefully you can find something that will keep a 350 cool without spending so much coin.

Cheers, Edouard 

[Buick_65]

US radiator makes a real close match.  Works like a champ and is typically readily available from any number of radiator shops.  And its not plastic.....

[TrunkMonkey]

Hi Ian,

Can you get pics and measurements of your radiator, AC/Non-AC and the inlet outlet locations?

I have the radiator from my 1964 Skylark. It is good condition, and might hold you over until you can get a good solid replacement.

PM me your zip, so I can get an idea on shipping costs if you are interested.

:)

Michael

[Super65lark]

I did read some more reviews and it seems that it's hit/miss.

I've had the original repaired but as I work on the cooling system I notice more pinhole leaks.

For now I'm going to try to to patch these leaks and consider my options. They aren't horrible but  I was noticing a constant loss of coolant.

Thanks all for your input.

[elagache]

Dear Iain, Michael, Dan, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,

I've had the original repaired but as I work on the cooling system I notice more pinhole leaks.

Perhaps the original radiator needs something more substantial than a repair.  Is there anyone nearby you who could redo the cores of the radiator?  That is the usual solution to restore a classic radiator.

Cheers, Edouard

[Super65lark]

Thanks Edouard. Yes, I do. You're probably right about this.
Curiously, why do the cores get pinholes? It's not steel, so is it the pressure?

[TrunkMonkey]

Galvanic corrosion.

Aluminum, copper, brass, nickel, iron and steel components with the coolant, creates an electrolytic system.

In addition, the rotation of the engines components create some weak, but important electromagnetic presence.

All of these things result in a slow process of anode/cathode reaction and the copper/brass is "lost" from the radiator and "gained" elsewhere in the engine.

In addition is chemical leaching in the process.

Not having the proper mix and it's anti-corrosive effect on coolant, adds to the problem.

It will occur in any state, but if all the "positive" steps are taken, then less damage over a far greater time will be the result.

[elagache]

Dear Michael, Iain, and mid-60s Buick owners seeking to "flee their problems," . . . .

Galvanic corrosion.

. . . . . .

. . . . Yeah, but can you run away from this problem if you drive really, really fast? . . . . . . . .

Cheers, Edouard 

[Super65lark]

We need a Buick dragster burning rubber emoji!

[Buick_65]

We need a Buick dragster burning rubber emoji!

Who doesn't if we're being honest.   

[Rollaround]

Galvanic corrosion.

Aluminum, copper, brass, nickel, iron and steel components with the coolant, creates an electrolytic system.

In addition, the rotation of the engines components create some weak, but important electromagnetic presence.

All of these things result in a slow process of anode/cathode reaction and the copper/brass is "lost" from the radiator and "gained" elsewhere in the engine.

In addition is chemical leaching in the process.

Not having the proper mix and it's anti-corrosive effect on coolant, adds to the problem.

It will occur in any state, but if all the "positive" steps are taken, then less damage over a far greater time will be the result.

Excellent explanation on corrosion Michael. 
I’ve always understood another contributing factor can be inadequate engine grounding or bonding to frame and thus back to the battery.  When this condition occurs current will pass through coolant to the radiator seeking a ground increasing electrolysis.

[TrunkMonkey]

Yep.

Two things to remember.

1. You can't put too much water into a nuclear reactor.

2. You can't have too much grounding in a motorized vehicle.

 

[elagache]

Dear Kevin, Michael, and mid-60s Buick owners with a lot of random facts stuck in their heads, . . .

Two One things to remember.

1. You can't put too much water into a nuclear reactor.

. . . .

Well, actually that isn't quite true.  It is only true for a water cooled nuclear reactor.  There are other varieties.  Once case that is particularly interesting with respect to water is sodium cooled reactors.  Put some water on liquid sodium metal and it has this particularly nasty tendency to react extremely violently (aka exploding!)

The U.S. Navy tried a sodium cooled reactor in the U.S.S Seawolf in 1957:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Seawolf_(SSN-575)

While it would have been a much more efficient reactor, a year before being commissioned in 1956 Admiral Rickover had already decided to abandon the experiment.  Within 3 years the Navy refitted the Seawolf with the same reactor type as other early submarines of the period.

That's your dose of nuclear submarine trivia of the day! 

Cheers, Edouard