rebuilding door hinges ?

[35chevcoupe]

Getting ready to rebuild the door hinges on my 65 GS and i thought there was a thread on this somewhere but can't find it .
Wondering if the rollers on the hinges are reproduced somewhere ?     and are the top hinges aluminum from the factory or are the ones i have aftermarket ?

[TrunkMonkey]

Willie Wilson
http://www.hoodhingerepair.com

I sent hinges off to "Willy the hinge master", and he did a fantastic job on them. (64 Skylark)
He is also a very personable guy to deal with. Busy, but worth the wait.

In a case where you drive your car frequently, perhaps calling or emailing and get worked into his schedule so you can send them when he has time to get them turned as quickly as possible.

I would contact him and let him know what you have and your concerns.
I had to find springs for him, as he did not have a pair available and mine were not serviceable.

But bushings and rollers and such, I think he has those parts available.

Tops are aluminum. And if yours are in good repair, I would leave them as it makes putting the lowers back on and adjusting the body lines and door alignment much easier than removing and reinstalling the doors.

Hope that helps.

[Rollaround]

Willy rebuilt my hood hinges and I’m very pleased with them.  Plan ahead, he stays busy and turn around times can slip.

[Weldar]

I just recently bought a repair kit from Ames Performance (in fact they have several items that work on the 65 GS). Anyway, with the roller pin removed you have to drill and tap. The new roller pin bolt that threads in is a smaller diameter but I am thinking that it will be fine considering the time it will really be used. The springs are not flattened on the ends and again, I think it would be fine but I do plan on a little light grinding to flatten them some. I am sure a similar kit is available from other sources as well.

Dwaine

[gearhead46]

https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/door-handles-hardware/door-hinges/CH4062/

Is this the kit you need?  This is in the Original Parts Group catalog.

[35chevcoupe]

Thanks guys , definately some options there.

[WkillGS]

Your local auto supply should have the 'Help' series of parts. They have the hinge pin and bushing kits for a couple of bucks. Dunno about the rollers...
My '66 has the alum hinges too.
In addition to Ames, specialty suppliers like Fusick (Olds) and the various 'vette suppliers are a great source of small items. I tend to stay away from the large suppliers.

[gearhead46]

I braved the 10 degree cold yesterday and got into my unheated garage where the GS is stored.  I looked in the door jam to see more details of the door hinges. Man, that looks like it could be a pretty big deal to remove those hinges. They are held to the door with those big torx head countersink bolts.  Since there is a taper under the head, there is a lot of friction holding it in place.  Not a whole lot of room to get a socket wrench in there to remove the bolt.

Has anyone ever done this and can comment on how to remove it?

[cwmcobra]

You'll need an impact tool with the proper size Phillips head driver.  The one we used breaks the screw loose by hitting the end of the tool with a hammer that puts an impact torque on the screw to loosen.

Like this:  https://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-1140.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=1o2&scid=scplpKD+1140&sc_intid=KD+1140&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4bzSBRDOARIsAHJ1UO6kw_-6R6VodDjnN-1DO5ETxLVn0hfCD9qb5pYAVvAJAFr4FuLRJr0aAqAVEALw_wcB

Took the hinges off the body, then could get at the fasteners on the door side of the hinges.

No real magic, just care in having a good, right-sized Phillips bit and the right tool.

 

Chuck

[TrunkMonkey]

I braved the 10 degree cold yesterday and got into my unheated garage where the GS is stored.  I looked in the door jam to see more details of the door hinges. Man, that looks like it could be a pretty big deal to remove those hinges. They are held to the door with those big torx head countersink bolts.  Since there is a taper under the head, there is a lot of friction holding it in place.  Not a whole lot of room to get a socket wrench in there to remove the bolt.

Has anyone ever done this and can comment on how to remove it?

I did on my 64 Skylark convertible.

Mine has Phillips, not Torx, but they are tapered.

I used Kroil on all and they broke free pretty easily.

I removed the doors, and then the hinges, but recommend you do not do that.

Leave the aluminum upper hinges in place, and only remove the lowers with the door supported, then carefully, fully supporting the door, close it and leave the doors closed until you can put the hinges back in.

I also used "S" wrenches, but a cut down socket welded on a rod that you bend to fit square on the hing bolts, will make putting them back on, much easier.

Both the body side and door side have "floating" nut plates, so it takes a bit ( I used a small wooden dowel with a point to align and hold the plate to get the bolts started.

Since the door is on multiple axis of adjustment, leaving the top hinges will make life much easier. And if I had to do mine again, I would send off the tops after getting the bottoms done.

If you do them yourself, same thing, but your turn around will be much less.

Be careful of the door front body and fender rear body gaps, and that you do not bend or damage the door/fender when you open and close the doors.

Hope that helps.