I braved the 10 degree cold yesterday and got into my unheated garage where the GS is stored. I looked in the door jam to see more details of the door hinges. Man, that looks like it could be a pretty big deal to remove those hinges. They are held to the door with those big torx head countersink bolts. Since there is a taper under the head, there is a lot of friction holding it in place. Not a whole lot of room to get a socket wrench in there to remove the bolt.
Has anyone ever done this and can comment on how to remove it?
I did on my 64 Skylark convertible.
Mine has Phillips, not Torx, but they are tapered.
I used Kroil on all and they broke free pretty easily.
I removed the doors, and then the hinges, but recommend you do not do that.
Leave the aluminum upper hinges in place, and only remove the lowers with the door supported, then carefully, fully supporting the door, close it and leave the doors closed until you can put the hinges back in.
I also used "S" wrenches, but a cut down socket welded on a rod that you bend to fit square on the hing bolts, will make putting them back on, much easier.
Both the body side and door side have "floating" nut plates, so it takes a bit ( I used a small wooden dowel with a point to align and hold the plate to get the bolts started.
Since the door is on multiple axis of adjustment, leaving the top hinges will make life much easier. And if I had to do mine again, I would send off the tops after getting the bottoms done.
If you do them yourself, same thing, but your turn around will be much less.
Be careful of the door front body and fender rear body gaps, and that you do not bend or damage the door/fender when you open and close the doors.
Hope that helps.