Use new bolts/hardware for rebuild?

[Polishmeatballpizza]

I have a lot of bolts and hardware from disassembly - wondering if most of you guys would buy all new hardware when re-assembling or just hit the bolts with a wire wheel and use them over again?

[cwmcobra]

George, I think it depends on what condition the bolts and other hardware are in.  I found some bolts to be very corroded and decided to replace them.  You can wire wheel the ones are are in good shape.  In my case, doing a full restoration, I blasted and replated the hardware that I didn't buy new.  It depends on your build objectives.  I would recommend if you reuse your existing hardware, you might want to put a coat of paint on it before assembly.  Keeping the rust down will make a big difference, no matter what level of restoration you're doing.

My free advice....not even worth two cents!   

Chuck

[Polishmeatballpizza]

George, I think it depends on what condition the bolts and other hardware are in.  I found some bolts to be very corroded and decided to replace them.  You can wire wheel the ones are are in good shape.  In my case, doing a full restoration, I blasted and replated the hardware that I didn't buy new.  It depends on your build objectives.  I would recommend if you reuse your existing hardware, you might want to put a coat of paint on it before assembly.  Keeping the rust down will make a big difference, no matter what level of restoration you're doing.

My free advice....not even worth two cents!   

Chuck

I figured the obvious worn out bolts would be replaced.
 If I re-coat the bolts, what do you recommend for this? Some sort of paint? Or anti-seize?

[elagache]

Dear George, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick "warriors against rust,"

I would recommend if you reuse your existing hardware, you might want to put a coat of paint on it before assembly.  Keeping the rust down will make a big difference, no matter what level of restoration you're doing.

Sorry if this confuses matters but what do you guys think about using a cold galvanize product instead of paint on fasteners?  Here is an example from the CRC corporation:

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=18412

Unlike paint, this does provide a thin but rich coat of zinc which will be sacrificed before the iron.  Even if you scrape off some of the galvanic coating, the exposed surfaces are still protected by the zinc just like hot galvanizing.  I'm planning to apply a cold galvanize coating on the tine of the hood ornament that I was supposed to put on my car a while back.  Unfortunately, the CRC product I have works best in temperatures over 60? and it hasn't been over 50? in a while - so I'm waiting!

This stuff might be too expensive for all fasteners, but it might be good choice for fasteners that cannot be replaced and really need to last.

A curious mind would like to know! . . . . 

Cheers, Edouard 

[cwmcobra]

If you're going to use paint and you don't really care about color or originality (which is fine), I think I'd paint them all black.  If you want to go to the cost and extra effort, prime them first with Rustoleum or other rust preventing primer, then paint them black (I'd recommend semi-gloss or satin).  Kind of a universal color.  If going more original, determine what finish they were originally, then paint with a matching paint color such as Real Steel or Rustoleum SteelTech for bare metal, semi-gloss black for oil/phosphate, silver cad for cadmium, etc.  Eastwood has lots of paints to simulate original surfaces.

Chuck

[cwmcobra]

Sorry if this confuses matters but what do you guys think about using a cold galvanize product instead of paint on fasteners?  Here is an example from the CRC corporation:

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=18412

Looks interesting; I've never heard of it or tried it.  It will be interesting to hear what your opinion is after you try it.  Keep us posted!

Chuck

[WkillGS]

Lots of options.
-You can buy new bolts from AMK products.
-Send out your originals to a plater.
-bead blast and do your own plating with a Caswell zinc plating kit.
-paint with engine paint and bake in an oven.

[option B9]

  Hi George, Walt, Chuck, Edouard, Another way of dealing with rusty nuts & bolts, clips, body shims during a restoration is to purchase a rock tumbler. I purchased a double rock tumbler from Harbor Freight years ago when they opened there first store on Long Island. Its great for small hardware, I fill the containers halfway with aquarium gravel load in some hardware & add several ounces of Simple Green to cut the dirt or grease, then several ounces of water then cap it and let it run for several days.. Then open them up & pour the  contents into a strainer and wash with a hose then pick out the hardware, (I use a magnet ) dry it off and prime. then top coat with whatever color is needed. Satin or semi gloss black are mostly the colors I use. This method is much safer on your hands than a wire brush or dangerous chemicals plus the Simple Green is biodegradable and the gravel goes into my flower bed to loosen up the soil. (I re-use the gravel 3 to 4 times)
   The tumbler containers are limited to bolts no longer than 3 1/2 inches long, but most of the Skylarks hardware is smaller than that. larger bolts can be cleaned in a  blast cabinet if you have one. Bolts that are very rusty should be replaced, don't waste your time trying to clean body bolts buy the kit and replace what you need. Grade 5 bolts can be found at any tractor, big rig, truck supply.
   Edouard mentioned the cold galvanized paint. Its a very good product, I used it when I was boating on LI. Several coats did a very good keeping away rust in a salty environment . A good quality paint like Krylon rattle cans and Rustoleum raw quart cans (dilute & spray) are what I mix and use. Eastwood and TP tools & equipment have other colors you may need too.  The rock tumbler paid for itself many times over before its untimely death this past March, I thought I could live without it, but I could not. So with a 25 % off coupon in hand I purchased another one in June.... That's my clean 2 cents on this topic...   Tony
   

[elagache]

Dear Chuck, Walt, Tony, and mid-60s Buick fastener restorers,

Looks interesting; I've never heard of it or tried it.  It will be interesting to hear what your opinion is after you try it.  Keep us posted!

I think Tony's answer is the best testimony:

Edouard mentioned the cold galvanized paint. Its a very good product, I used it when I was boating on LI. Several coats did a very good keeping away rust in a salty environment .

The big advantage of any sort of galvanizing is that it provides protection even if the surface coating has been broken - exposing the iron in the steel.  Zinc will oxidize before iron which prevents the iron from rusting.  That's why I would expect it to be particularly good on fasteners.  When you tighten the fasteners, you are likely to strip off any paint you've applied.

I already have used cold galvanized paint on a few things, but it will take years to see if the protection is actually better than paint.

Another way of dealing with rusty nuts & bolts, clips, body shims during a restoration is to purchase a rock tumbler.

Interesting idea.  If you have a lot of fasteners and other small parts to clean up, yes that will effectively "industrialize" the process.

That's my clean 2 cents on this topic...   Tony

. . . So did you clean those two pennies in the rock tumbler too? . . . . .

Cheers, Edouard