Removing the body from the frame - question

[Polishmeatballpizza]

G
That's interesting.  Where was your car built? 
On some A body's mount five just above the rear axle is just a rubber bumper of sorts.  On my convertible all 14 positions had bolts in the mounts.

????Did you remove the emergency brake cable???? I ask because I forgot mine.

Sounds like you're ready for lift off.

I don't recall where it was built.
Yeah, I am getting close to lifting it. The emergency brake cable has been removed.
I'm hoping to get it up on 4x4s this weekend.

[Mark Ascher]

And, where's the balance point for lifting the body? I guess I will need at least two floor Jack's.
I got all the bolts out, except for what looks like a plug at position 4.
Tried jacking it up a little, it's definitely moving up.
Just got to figure out what to do next.

Once it's up in the air, I'll probably use 4x4s across the body, but how to support those 4x4s?
EDIT: I guess I'll use saw horses - Harbor Freight has some for 12.99;  they hold 350# each. That should be enough to support the body, right?

George,

Balance point is right about there on a HT.
Per Walt, I'd get something more stout than 12.99 saw horses. Please don't take any risks.

Mark

[Polishmeatballpizza]

How much does the body weigh? The sawhorses are rated at 350# each.

[Polishmeatballpizza]

According to my calculations,  I need to be at least 28" above the ground to clear the tires when rolling the frame out. Jack stands that go that high are about $100 each.

[35chevcoupe]

George ,   You don,t have to spend 100.00 each on jack stands , All we,re saying is use something that is going to hold the weight .
The safe way is to just plan on the body weighing a 1000 lbs . I know it don,t  ,  but why take the chance on someone getting hurt .
If the sawhorses are rated for 350pounds EACH  you should be ok IF your using 4 of them , one on each corner .
12.99 just sounds cheap for sawhorses .
We look forward to falling along with your restoration , so be safe and enjoy the journey .   

[bobbybuick]

I used two engine hoists and a body cart the cart was 400 dollars well worth it! if you want to sell it when your done you will get close to that for it .I sold my auto twirler for what i paid for it on my last frame off

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Well, I figured the body weighs about 1000 lbs, I wasn't looking for the cheapest thing. I just need to find something that is tall enough and strong enough. And, I am working with limited space, so I can't really buy a cart and roll the body around - I need to get it up in the air, so I can finish working on it.

These at Home Depot look pretty sturdy - planning on getting four of them. Each pair is rated at 750 lbs, so I should be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136

[bobbybuick]

Well, I figured the body weighs about 1000 lbs, I wasn't looking for the cheapest thing. I just need to find something that is tall enough and strong enough. And, I am working with limited space, so I can't really buy a cart and roll the body around - I need to get it up in the air, so I can finish working on it.

These at Home Depot look pretty sturdy - planning on getting four of them. Each pair is rated at 750 lbs, so I should be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136

There would be no way i would trust those to hold anything i was crawling around

[Mark Ascher]

There would be no way i would trust those to hold anything i was crawling around

I second that.

Mark

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Well, I figured the body weighs about 1000 lbs, I wasn't looking for the cheapest thing. I just need to find something that is tall enough and strong enough. And, I am working with limited space, so I can't really buy a cart and roll the body around - I need to get it up in the air, so I can finish working on it.

These at Home Depot look pretty sturdy - planning on getting four of them. Each pair is rated at 750 lbs, so I should be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-in-Folding-Sawhorse-2-Pack-226863/206529136

There would be no way i would trust those to hold anything i was crawling around

That is a good point, I will be spending a lot of time under the body. Any suggestions?

[Rollaround]

How about some cinder blocks and 2"x10" planks.
Make sure the boards are relatively knot free.  Stack the cinder blocks, then drop 2"x4"s  down through the holes for safety.  Get the cinder blocks at Lowes or Home Depot when your done return them.   

[Polishmeatballpizza]

How about some cinder blocks and 2"x10" planks.
Make sure the boards are relatively knot free.  Stack the cinder blocks, then drop 2"x4"s  down through the holes for safety.  Get the cinder blocks at Lowes or Home Depot when your done return them.   

Ok. That's a good idea, cheap too.
2x10 across the body, supporting it? Wouldn't 4x4s be stronger?
I could use 4x4s inside the cinder blocks, right?

[elagache]

Dear George and mid-60s Buick scaffold erectors,

Ok. That's a good idea, cheap too.
2x10 across the body, supporting it? Wouldn't 4x4s be stronger?
I could use 4x4s inside the cinder blocks, right?

You are correct, the 4"x4" have greater strength than the 2"x10".  However, the 10" width provides more surface area to spread the weight of the body.  That should reduce the risk of the body warping because of the unusual support position.  If you wanted the best of both worlds, you should have 4" x 4" support beams with 2"x10"s on top of that actually providing the contact surface between the car body and your framework below.

Might be overkill but when it comes to safety perhaps you can never be too safe.

Cheers, Edouard

[Rollaround]

George,
 Do not use half blocks!  Use full size standard blocks. Do not use lightweight blocks.  Stack the blocks as a block layer would. Do not lay them on their side or ends.
Edouard is correct you may achieve more strength with a 4x4 but I like the 2x10 because it will distribute the load more evenly over the top of the block.   Woods cheep, I would double up the 2x10 plank and I would cover the top of the block with a board then lay the 2x10 on it. Make sure the boards are knot free.
No short cuts here if you're going to be getting under the car.

[elagache]

Dear Kevin, George and mid-60s Buick restorers,

Do not use half blocks!  Use full size standard blocks. Do not use lightweight blocks.  Stack the blocks as a block layer would. Do not lay them on their side or ends.
Edouard is correct you may achieve more strength with a 4x4 but I like the 2x10 because it will distribute the load more evenly over the top of the block.   Woods cheep, I would double up the 2x10 plank and I would cover the top of the block with a board then lay the 2x10 on it. Make sure the boards are knot free.
No short cuts here if you're going to be getting under the car.

After I posted my scheme I started to worry about the potential to twist that could occur if the 2" X 10" wasn't loaded evenly on the 4" X 4".  So that isn't such a hot idea after all.  Indeed use wood of the same width.  Either two 2" x 10" or if you want to be really robust 4" x 10"

Thanks Kevin, you are ahead of me! 

Cheers, Edouard