clutch won't disengage help???!!!

[jmos4]

Hi,

I got my engine and trans in and the clutch will not disengage with the linkage

I used a hodge podge of parts so maybe I had something incorrect

what is the rod length suppose to be from the pedal to the first z-bar?

what is the min flywheel thickness?

I am using a resurfaced stock flywheel, stock throwout bearing and centerforce dual friction clutch

I have rotated the bellhousing linkage and it does disengage at about 60 degrees of rotation yet in the car I have about 15 degrees of by hand before it gives any resistance

Also I should mention I have had all the holes in the linkage re-bushed so there is very little excess play

thanks
Jim

(4th week of project maybe done till next year at least it may look like a car again)

[WkillGS]

The upper rod is 12 inches long.
Which stock parts are you using, and which ones did you make?

And are either the upper or lower rod adjustable for length?

[jmos4]

Hi,

well I refabed the lower adjuster added about 1.00 to a 1.25 and it works at least by hand and has about 1/2 inch free pedal travel will find out if it works when it runs hoping no later than Wensday coming up as I have to pack to go back to work and replenish the Buick funds so to speak

one side note to anyone using a Muncie it is about .890 longer than a t-10/300-auto at the mount and a stock auto drive shaft will not work which I get to order tommorrow yeah

and if anyone is interested in my month long project it has a front clip again so it looks more like a car still need to hook up a few things and install the Radiator and what not wish me luck as this has been the hardest month I have worked in forever

will post a few pictures when I get back to work

thanks for the info and help it is much appreciated

Jim

[WkillGS]

Jim, is that a Muncie M-21?
I've seen a few pics of them, and the tails got a bit longer around 1971. Went to a fine-spline output shaft too....same as a Turbo 400.  So see if your old driveshaft yoke fits.

Even the 65-66 4 speed driveshafts are shorter than the automatic ones. 59 vs 60 inches. I found one from a 71-72 Electra or Lesabre that fit well.

I think the problem with your linkage is the finger height of the pressure plate. (I still need to verify this0.
Buick spec is 2.047 to 2.139". If it's much different, it throws the geometry of the linkage out.
One of these days, I'll measure the pressure plates I have here.

Tom T once posted a great tip.... Sometimes a new disk needs too much pedal travel to release it. So he puts some spacer washers under the pressure plate bolts. Clutch will then release easier. Once the disk wears, you can take the washers out.

[Brian]

Jim,
  The driveshaft on the 4-speed cars is 1" shorter than on the auto cars, so that is no surprise.  I have a driveshaft that will fit that I can set you up with--it is in VA in my storage building though, so I won't have access to it until my next trip to my parents place.  It is an auto driveshaft that has been shortened by 1" by a driveshaft shop.  It was in my '65 when I got it and I found the correct solid driveshaft (does not have the rubber insert at the rear like the auto driveshaft) and put that in there.
  I have pictures of the clutch linkage I can Email you if you want to see the geometry (taken before I put the body on the car). 

[jmos4]

Hi all,

I was under the impresion on drive shaft length was the same between auto and sticks, I was running a 65 m-20 see below,

I found out a expensive one today, on the way home from the exhaust shop

doing about 65 mph let off the gas and bam the new 3 1/2 DIA shaft I had built on Monday came out at the rear end, in my impatience and going at hundred miles a hour for the past 6 weeks I never noticed it was missing the inner clips to hold it in place (the shop had installed Ford style u-joints), when I got her home I found the drive shaft had been impaled into the rear of my trans after removal, I noticed it was bent, and after that came to notice I could not get the trans into neutral

well the short the shaft broke one of the ears off the trans not sure the rest of the damage but needless to say it has been a trying day as they say at out greatest triumphs comes our greatest agony

yeah if you got a drive shaft about 58.5 long center of u-joint to u-joint let me know what you would want for it as it will be a few months at the earliest it goes back together

You make be right on the fingers of the pressure plate, but the longer linkage seemed to work fine although, it has a different feel than the 4 door small block car I got off Brian

thanks for the info will send some photos of my month long ordeal

Jim

[jmos4]

update:

well got ahold of DTS in Michigan and they are going to redo my shaft which I really figured I was going to get told SOL, they did on the damage the shaft caused which I figured that was going to be the case, although was nice of them to warranty the shaft.

so anyone with a Muncie in the Detroit Metro area let me know, if not may sit till funds come available

thanks again all

Jim

[Brian]

if you come up with a case, I can rebuild your muncie into the replacement case.  The broken ear can be reparied on a muncie since it is aluminum.  Call Larry at D & L transmissions in South Huntington, NY--he can set you up with any replacement parts you need.  631-351-4837  I bought a T10 case from him last year when one shipped to me got damaged.

[jmos4]

once again into the Buick abyss

well got a trans over the weekend had to change the side cover and rear tail housing as it was a 69 trans and had larger shift lever notches

after that more damage both ears on one side gone and my bearing retainer destroyed

so here I am this morning going on a 70 mile trek to get another retainer

maybe I can get it up to a local car show today wish me luck

Jim

[WkillGS]

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.
I once broke a driveshaft on my blue 66 racing at the GS Nats at 95 mph. Other than beating up the floor and mufflers, damage to the car was minimal, and some friends helped me get it back together for the 860 mile drive home!
Sorry I can't help with the Muncie parts, I never had one of those.
Compare the new input shaft retainer to the old. Shaft od is larger than the BW T10 (on some?), and even flange diameter might be different (it was on my Richmond). A machine shop can cut them down.

[jmos4]

update,

It looks like I am done with the big stuff

I found another piece of damage when installing the driveshaft as the old one broke the Pinion Flange and had to swap that but other than that I made it to the show

one more week to pack for the trip back down to work in NC let the new toy rest till next year

thanks for the info all again

will have to post some Pictures from the hotel room in a week or so
Jim