Question about brakes...

[Polishmeatballpizza]

I will be going through the brakes on my 65, it will need everything, new lines, master cylinder, etc... It has drums all the way around, and for now, I will leave them that way. Maybe in the future I will upgrade to discs.

The car did not come with a vacuum booster, so I believe I should add one, right? They also have these Brake Assist Kits in the OPGI catalog - what exactly are these? Power units that replace the big vacuum boosters? Is it something I can use with drum brakes? To save money, I am sticking with the drums, so I presume the single master cylinder with booster would be the best bet, correct?


Power assist:
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/brake-systems/master-cylinders-boosters/CH30558/

Master cylinder with brake booster:
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/brake-systems/master-cylinders-boosters/PBD6467/

[dsags]

If you want power brakes a the booster is required. Manual brake cars did not utilize a booster. If you don't mind pushing hard on the brake pedal to stop then manual brakes are fine and will save you some money until the upgrade to disc brakes.

If power brakes then my recommendation is to use a dual master cylinder. Inline Tube sells a complete conversion set on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-Body-Power-Drum-Brake-Dual-Master-Cylinder-Conversion-Booster-Valve-Kit-/182054921154?vxp=mtr&hash=item2a6351a3c2 for $239.

Inline Tube http://www.inlinetube.com also sells the single master cylinder for $69. There is a link to a Buick catalog at the bottom of the home page.

Dan

[elagache]

Dear George, Dan, and mid-60s Buicks that stop on a dime!

I will be going through the brakes on my 65, it will need everything, new lines, master cylinder, etc... It has drums all the way around, and for now, I will leave them that way. Maybe in the future I will upgrade to discs.

The car did not come with a vacuum booster, so I believe I should add one, right? They also have these Brake Assist Kits in the OPGI catalog - what exactly are these? Power units that replace the big vacuum boosters? Is it something I can use with drum brakes? To save money, I am sticking with the drums, so I presume the single master cylinder with booster would be the best bet, correct?

You definitely don't have to stick to a single master cylinder.  You can upgrade to a dual cylinder and get the additional safety advantages unless you really want a 99% stock look.  Master brake cylinder failures do happen.  My trusty wagon had two slow decline failures which fortunately were slow enough so we were able to get the car home and replace the cylinder.  A friend of mine with a 1957 Chevy Bel Air had the master brake cylinder fail while the car was being serviced and it took several months of body shop repairs to get the car back.  So give the matter some thought.

Power assist:
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/brake-systems/master-cylinders-boosters/CH30558/

This is some sort of additional power boost beyond power brakes.  I don't think you would need something like this unless you were planning on some extreme driving.

Master cylinder with brake booster:
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/brake-systems/master-cylinders-boosters/PBD6467/

I assume that was the OEM installation back in the day.  I can't know for sure because my trusty wagon had manual brakes.  I believe the brake components can be shared with more popular car lines and in any case, there are a number of companies that make Buick compatible components.  My wagon has a setup from SSBC which includes front disc brakes and a new master cylinder:

http://ssbrakes.com/

I'm no expert, but I suspect that you could make a master brake cylinder intended to work with disc brakes work with your existing drum brakes, so that you wouldn't have to buy a new master brake cylinder later on when you did upgrade.  Can anybody confirm or deny this?

Edouard

[Dr Frankenbuick]

The hydraulic system uses the power steering pump to to create pressure to assist the master cylinder instead of vacuum pressure. They are found in vehicles that do not make enough vacuum to operate a booster appropriately. These are diesels and large cammed  motors. The GN used this system from the factory as well as the diesel Regals from the 80s. I adapted one of these systems from the junk yard to my 67 GS with a huge TA cam. It worked fantastically. You would not need this with  a stock motored GS.


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[bobbybuick]

the only aftermarket company that tests there components to the standards of oem and use independent testing people is
The Right Stuff
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/
I know the people who test there stuff and they all worked at delco moraine in the past

[Polishmeatballpizza]

OK. I'm a bit confused by all these options. And, it seems I should be considering disc brakes, at least in the front.

What is the least expensive option for converting to front disc brakes?

[elagache]

Dear George, Dr Frankenbuick, Bobby, and mid-60 Buick fans of stopping . . . . .

OK. I'm a bit confused by all these options. And, it seems I should be considering disc brakes, at least in the front.

What is the least expensive option for converting to front disc brakes?

Okay, take a moment to pause and take in the advice.  The trouble with forums is that you'll get a *LOT* of it!

So do you need front disc brakes?  My trusty wagon is 51-1/2 years old.  She has had front disc brakes for 6 years . . . and has hardly used them because she has spent most of that time in the repair shop!

No, disc brakes (front or rear) are not necessary.  They are however desirable especially because these cars do not have the stopping power of today's models.  If you can drive a classic in the mindset of the period you'll be fine, but obviously the greater the traffic the greater the risk of a potential need to make an emergency stop.

My recommendation is to get the car running on the existing drum brakes and decide how much you want to drive the car.  If you really enjoy driving your classic Buick, you'll probably want to invest in things that makes the car safer and more comfortable.  Since you are located in Southern California, you might find yourself "hot under the collar" for air conditioning in no time!

Cheers, Edouard 

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Ok. I'll go with drum brakes for now.

So, should I go with the dual master cylinder and booster or single master cylinder and booster?

What is the power steering booster? How does this assist the brakes? Does the power steering run a vacuum generator? Will my stock motor create enough vacuum for the brake booster?

[dsags]

If you need to purchase both the master cylinder and booster your best bet is to buy the dual master cylinder. It's only a few dollars more. Be sure to get one that's for drum brakes. Many have a larger bore and are made for disc brakes. Believe the one for drum brakes is a 1" diameter cylinder bore.

Dan

[schlepcar]

OK. I'm a bit confused by all these options. And, it seems I should be considering disc brakes, at least in the front.

What is the least expensive option for converting to front disc brakes?

The "cheapest" and not necessarily the least of quality(arguably better)is to find any 69-72 disc setup...A body,nova,etc....except 70up Camaro firebird,and simply bolt them on. The ball joint size is already correct and you will have factory delco brakes.

[Dr Frankenbuick]

The 65 came with a single MC. While in 67, they upgraded to a dual MC. The latter was much safer  in a fluid loss situation. The distribution block and/or reducers control the use of disc brakes in a system. You can add them later to a drum set-up. You should be fine with a vacuum booster system unless you are thinking about a huge cam with a high stall converter.


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[bobbybuick]

another thing to think about if you are running factory wheels and want to go disc you have to be careful.the stock wheels will NOT fit most disc brakes unles you buy the ones made to fit

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Would this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1972-Chevy-A-Body-2-Drop-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-Chevelle-El-Camino-/400247825291?fits=Year%3A1965%7CMake%3ABuick&hash=item5d30a1238b:g:hF4AAOSw6btXSGdb&vxp=mtr

I wonder if my wheels would fit. How can I find out?

[GS66]

If you're considering aftermarket wheels that would be a good time to make the change.

[elagache]

Dear George, Jim, and mid-60s Buick style consultants . . . . . 

Would this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1972-Chevy-A-Body-2-Drop-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-Chevelle-El-Camino-/400247825291?fits=Year%3A1965%7CMake%3ABuick&hash=item5d30a1238b:g:hF4AAOSw6btXSGdb&vxp=mtr

I wonder if my wheels would fit. How can I find out?

This is a kit designed to lower the front of your car by 2 inches.  Unless you want to do that, this isn't your cup of tea.  However, you can find disc brake kits that will fit existing stock wheels.  My trusty wagon is - *supposed* - to have such a thing.  More on that later! 

If you're considering aftermarket wheels that would be a good time to make the change.

Funny Jim that you should mention this! 

Back in 2010, Orinda Motors bought as I mentioned an SSBC disc brake upgrade for my trusty wagon.  It fit perfectly *one* of the stock wheels of my wagon.  That particular wheel a 6" of backspacing.  Greg and the gang at Orinda Motors thought all the wheels had 6" of backspacing.  What they didn't know is that when my wagon was stolen, they sold the spare tire and we needed to get another rim for the spare.  Of course as the tires got rotated, that new rim ended up as one of the running wheels.  It turned out that the 1965 wheels had only 5" of backspacing and it wasn't enough to fit the new disc brakes! 

So I had a choice, get Orinda Motors to get 4 more OEM steel rims or . . . . .  Get something a bit for flashy!

http://www.wheelvintiques.com/wheels/muscle/buick-rallye.html

As things turned out, I'm so glad the old OEM steel rims didn't fit the new disc brakes!! 

Cheers, Edouard