Yes Chuck, both sides of the gasket. If you want to be positive about the intake gaskets you could use the Aerobic sealer made by Lock-Tite which is called gasket eliminator 518 sealant with an item # of 51813. Gasoline doesn't harm or dissolve it & it remains pliable for just about forever & is easy to clean up. I've used this with NO gaskets on "Nails" at all without any problems. I coat BOTH sides of the gasket with my finger. Normally NO sealer is needed for the water manifold gaskets to the head. Before you tighten the timing cover bolts, just finger tight, install the water manifold. Makes it MUCH easier because the gaskets to the head are so thick. We DON'T want to cut the o-ring. If you forgot & tightened the cover bolts don't despair it can still be installed. For the o-ring to make sure it DOESN'T LEAK. I clean the sealing surface where the o-ring sits in the timing cover removing ALL corrosion. If ANY corrosion is left in there it will only give it a path to leak. Now you can use a little gray import silicone in the bottom of the cover & some around the neck of the water manifold. This will ensure a positive seal. Next I use an inner valve spring shim & mount it against the water manifold. It can be anywhere between .030"-.060" thick. The thicker, to some degree, ( not nec.) will insure a positive seal. As much of a pain it is to remove the manifold again this is ONLY an added precaution. You will have to machine the OD of the shim to fit into the timing case cover. Install the manifold into the o-ring then install the manifold to head gaskets. These gaskets are pretty thick & will be kind of a pain to get into place. Install the 2 bolts into the opposite side. Then just use a long device to be able to put some force to it. Don't go crazy because you could damage the o-ring. What we are trying to do is NOT cut the o-ring. Usually I use the yellow glue (we in the business call it yellow snot) to hold the pan gasket to the block & nothing on the pan side. Most have a tendency to over tighten the pan bolts TOO much. Read the manual as far as torque specs. go. The valley & valve cover gaskets. Again, I use the yellow snot to hold the gaskets to the covers. Then a finger swipe, again, of the grey import silicone. It keeps things sealed & IF nec. to remove for some reason, if you take a rubber mallet & give it a good wack they will usually pop off without destroying the gasket.
To me this is engine ( not motor) rebuild 101.
I could type for days & NEVER give all the info. When you pay me to rebuild your "Nail" it's these little details that count which takes time & time is $$$$.
Tom T.
