Newly rebuilt Carter AFB leaking like a sieve

[nailr65]

I just had my Carter AFB rebuilt professionally.  I installed the carb knowing I would have to adjust the idle and the air-fuel mixing screws.  So I did some research on how to do that and figured that it would give me a starting point.  I had started the car and it seamed to run good.  I drove it around a bit and it ran good.  Anyway long story short I tried to start the car the next day and I notice that fuel was coming out of every orifice on the carb and the car would not start.  Just cranking it over made the fuel pour out everywhere.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you Dave

[GranSportSedan]

sounds like a float isn't closing the needle and seat.. possibly debris in the fuel line causing it?

[telriv]

If the car was running OK the day before this is what I would at least start with. 1st., before trying to start tap on the rear of the carb. top corners with a small hammer. Not nec. to bang hard, just enough to cause some internal vibration & maybe if there is a piece of debris caught between the needle & seat it will "fall out". This is where the needle & seats are located. Now put a screwdriver to keep the choke blade open. Step on the gas pedal about half way & see what happens.
2nd. if you can get it running & it DOES start. Get a pair of needle nose or locking pliers. Squeeze the fuel line enough, not too tight, to restrict the fuel flow enough so that little or NO fuel is being pushed through. With the engine running at a fast idle keep the fuel line restricted until the engine starts to falter. It is now starting to run out of fuel. Let it falter a slight bit longer then release the pliers. What this does is give an instant "blast" of fuel & pressure to hopefully "wash" out any debris. You may have to do this a few times. If this doesn't work the floats have probably sunk & needs new ones. In any case it's more than likely time for a re-build.


Tom T.

[nailr65]

OK so here is the follow up.  I tried to tap on it and do the fuel line test and neither worked.  Come to find out my suspicions were correct.  After trying all the simple tests I removed the top of the carb and found that one of the floats was full of fuel on this "professionally" rebuilt carburetor. 

After replacing the float the car seams to idle fine but has a continuous back fire while driving.

The car ran fine before I sent the carburetor out to be rebuilt.

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome. 

Thank you all who have responded Dave S.

[telriv]

I replace BOTH floats on ANY AFB rebuilds that I do. I don't care if they look new!!!! The back fire could be fouled plugs because so much fuel was being dumped. Easy fix, replace the spark plugs. This is just a guess. Or, you could drive it around for awhile, kinda easily at 1st. then harder after fully/completely warmed up & they MAY just clean themselves up. Worth a try for no out of pocket $$$$ cost other than your time.

[nailr65]

Hey Tom, I did pull the plugs and they looked pretty crappy.  They are fairly new so I tried to clean them.  Might not have been enough.  I will replace them and let you know how I make out.

What spark plugs would you recommend for the 401? 

Thank you Dave S.

[Loren At 65GS]

Dave,

The original recommended spark plug was AC Delco R44S. You can also use an R43S or a 44S.  The 44S may cause radio noise though.

  You can also cross reference to another brand or more current plug.

 Loren

[telriv]

Dave,

   When the Bosch single platinum plugs were available I used them EXCLUSIVELY on ALL "Nails" as well as many others. Nowadays they all seem to be selling Iridium plugs. Haven't used them on "Nails" as of this moment or done a crossover. Things I liked about the Bosch plugs were they were a Multi Heat Range plug. Meaning they would cover themselves for a variety of heat ranges WITHOUT being too cold or too hot. They required about 1/2 the required voltage to fire which means you can increase the plug gap for a "Fatter" spark. Normally I would go to .045"-.055" with NO adverse effects. Just needed GOOD plug wires. I normally would use the Taylor Spiro Pro wires & cut & fit myself. If they got fouled or dirty a few blasts or some spirited driving would clear them right up. Some kind of Electronic ignition conversion is a PLUS.
   There are a variety of plugs you can use. Champion, J10Y. J12Y, J14Y or J18Y. A/C Delco, R43S. R44S, R45S or R46S. You also have Autolite as well as some others. I'm sure some of these will cross over to Iridium.


Tom T.

[Rollaround]

Dave, have you contacted the guy that rebuilt the carburetor? He may be more than willing to make it right.