Removing Engine & Tranny

[cwmcobra]

I'm about to remove the engine and transmission from my 65 GS and wondered how and where you guys that have gone before me on this have attached your chains/lifting mechanism to the engine.  I like to connect to the block, if possible, and heads as a second priority.  I see a bolt on each side of the back of the block, but the front is clean except for the water pump and coolant crossover fasteners.  Should I remove those and fasten my front lift chains to a couple of those holes in the block?

I also like to pull the engine and tranny together, so am always concerned about the added weight of the transmission, etc.

I know I'm being anal about this, but would hate to make a dumb mistake that I'd regret, but for asking a question here.

I'll appreciate you shared knowledge, as usual!

Chuck

[Brian]

I remove the intake (easy to remove on a nailhead), then use one of the crank style levelers that hang on an engine hoist.  I run the chains through the front hole on the leveler and hook one end to the front intake bolt hole on one head, and the other to the front intake bolt hole on the other head.  I do the same thing in the rear.  Picks it up nice and level side to side and you can control the front to rear angle with the leveler.  Don't have to worry about damaging the carbs with the chains either since the intake is not on the engine.

[Rollaround]

Chuck, how timely, I was just walking around mine last night asking myself where do you grab one of these things to pull it out. I also want to pull the engine and trany. When are you going to pull yours? Mine is very close, I just need to put it on the lift and disconnect the underside.

 

[cwmcobra]

I hope to pull mine by the end of the week.  I'm in the same boat, just have to disconnect the mounts and the tranny from the crossmember and she's ready to come out.  I think mine will be a little easier than yours, though!   

Chuck

[cwmcobra]

Thanks Brian for the info.  Makes sense to me and I have the leveler to work with as well.

Chuck

[Brian]

Just to share some more I have learned lately:  If your car is a manual transmission, life is much easier if you take the drivers side exhaust manifold loose from the engine and let it hang in place with a bungee cord while you pull the engine.  If not, it restricts forward movement of the engine out of the bellhousing and the input shaft of the trans gets hung up in the clutch fingers.  Same goes for re-installation--hang the manifold in there with a bungee cord, put the engine in, then install the manifold to the engine.   
  None of that is an issue with an automatic trans---does not have to come forward but about 2" to come loose from the automatic. 
Also make sure you remove the radiator--you will need the room to get the engine out--especially if your car has the factory AC system hanging off the firewall.

[Brian]

Put the engine back in my car last night.  Took some pics of how I hang it from the hoist.  Works really slick this way and slides in the car easily.

[Brian]

first pic

[Brian]

2nd one

[cwmcobra]

Thanks for the pics Brian.  Looks like a slick way to go about it.  And your engine is a beauty!  Lots of time and effort in it, I'm sure.

Have you ever pulled and/or replaced the engine/tranny together?  I've done it that way on my other cars and it's worked great.  I built a wooden fixture to set the engine on, then can install the clutch, bellhousing and tranny on the fixture rather than mostly underneath the car.  I expect the added weight of the trans and bellhousing would still be supported well my the intake bolts.  Just wondering if anyone else has done it this way.

Cheers!

Chuck

[Brian]

I have never tried that on a car/truck that had the core support on it.  You would have to get the engine really high to get the tail end of the transmission to clear the top of the radiator core support.  You will have to have the car up on jackstands to get everything loose underneath, plus the tail end of the trans will be hanging low under the car.  So with the car up higher than normal, the average engine hoist will not get the engine high enough for the trans to clear the core support since it will be substantially lower than the engine to get the angle necessary for it all to come out together.   
  I have set the engine and trans in together many times on cars that did not have a body on them.  That is a piece of cake! 

[Dr Frankenbuick]

I have had several engine and transmission combinations over the core support of my 65.  You should have the radiator and fan out of the car and away from harm or doing harm.  I put the car up on four 8x8s to get enough clearance to work underneath and angle the transmission down far enough to miss the firewall. Don't forget to chock the wheels. 

The car came with a 455 and TH400 combination that was pulled over the core support (rebuilt original #matching short block came with the car in a bag).  Then the engine and  four speed for my 66 GS were lifted in and out of the 65 chassis over the core for break-in in the rolling chassis. Finally the original rebuilt engine and original trans were lifted into their rightful place over the core support.