65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
Projects & Restorations => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: dsags on February 27, 2011, 03:56:39 PM
-
The project finally made it to my house today. Its a CA car built in Fremont. Never left CA as far as I can tell until now. Last time it was on the road was around 2000. The color is Turquoise Mist. It needs just about everything - except donor panels. It comes with a bunch of parts including the correct 3922 carburetor !! The interior is a mess but the trunk and floorboards are solid and the taillights are even decent. Plan is to completely rebuild it. As yet the bottom has not been looked at but the previous owner says its as nice as the top.
-
Dan,
It made it! Can't wait to see it in person. As soon as the weather gets a bit warmer, I'm heading your way....
Mark
-
Warmer ? So you're coming over in April or May ? LOL
As you can see we've had a bit of snow here too. Come on over any time, the cars not going anywhere for a bit.
Dan
-
Dan,
Be sure to carefully remove that shifter boot in the console. That is the only original I have ever seen in all my years of messing with Buicks. Other than factory litterature. It would be nice to have someone use it for a pattern to reproduce some. All that is available now is the newer style upper console boot that has a rectangular hole in the top for a Hurst shifter.
-
Dan,
It is good to see it has finally made it home.
Loren
-
Brian, you find someone to make the pattern and reproduce it and I'll supply the part. I'd love to see a correct one.
Dan
-
Dan,
Contact Doug Dougherty at the Buick Farm. Doug did the bellhousing boots.
Mark
-
Mark, I will get in touch with him. I need another one of those boots anyway.
Here are a couple more pictures of the car. The hood hinges weren't attached so I had to wait for some help before I took these. There is a battery tray its just not attached. The car continues to amaze. I connected a battery to it and when I opened the door all the interior lights went on. Then I lowered the top !!! How lucky can I get ?
Dan
-
Dan,
Looks like you have the perfect candidate for a total restoration. I do like the Turquoise Mist body color with the white interior and top. Plus. . . it's a four speed! And it has the California crank case vent closed circuit air cleaner. Plus . . . it's the chrome dress up version! Sweet!
I'm sure that you will be looking for factory paint code markings. Look for the build sheet. On my CA hardtop, I found two build sheets, hand written, one under the passenger's seat springs, the other under the rear seat springs.
Good luck with your new project. Keep us posted.
John Egel
-
John, thanks for the good words. I will look for the build sheets when the interior comes out.
Dan
-
Brian, here's a picture of the shifter boot that came out of the car. Unfortunately I do not think it is an original.
The first picture shows the order which it came out of the car. Note that there was a glued in portion of what was probably the original boot still attached to the lower retainer.
Doug knows of one person who has an NOS boot, but they won't part with it. Very interesting guy to talk to. Has a 65 GS that is loaded with options that he is restoring.
Dan
-
Looks like a great project Dan! Neat color combo too..... there's a guy in NYC that had one that color. I'll see if I can find pics on the BPG site. It was Ron Mooneys son-in-law.
Unusual shifter boot. Is there a part number on it?
I believe early 65 had a different design boot than later ones. Mark has an early style, but it's a no-console boot if I'm not mistaken.
-
Walt, thanks. I would love to see a picture of that car. I sent a picture of the boot to the Buick Farm to see if they had an idea about its authenticity. I could not find a part number on it anywhere. The car is a '1B' build date car so that is really early.
-
Congrets on the car again. It will be nice to see when it comes to life again :hello2:
-
Wow, that car has all the right stuff. It is going to be a beautiful restoration. Can't wait to see more pictures of your progress.
-
awsome gransport. Brings back the memory of the first look at my first 65 4 speed at 16 and then again in 08 with my current one keep the pic's coming!!
-
Thanks for the compliments. Here are a few more pictures. Got a peak at the transmission and it has the 'GS' casting on it by the shifter.
-
1-22-65 on the door panel ! 1B on the cowl tag should be 2nd week of Jan. did it take three week's to build?
-
Holy crap, I never even thought of that. Actually that would probably be the third week but still after the car should have been completed. Checked the other panels and no marks of any kind. Have never seen marks like that on a door panel which is why I posted the picture. Even looked for those "part numbers" 4456718 and 9 but can't find those either. Anybody have any ideas ?
-
Dan,
My door panels are dated like yours. I'll go take a look at them. One thing to keep in mind, I believe the date on the tag is the body build, not when the car was assembled. I thought GMs process was that Fisher body supplied trimmed out bodies to the various assembly plants, but I'm not sure how this worked at Fremont.
Mark
-
Mark,
Appreciate the assistance. I'll probably need more help later. Not familiar with the non-ac car details.
Dan
-
Hi Dan
Also check under the console where the storage compartment is. I just restored the console out of my coupe and when i turned it over to clean it i found a part number and a date stamped on it plus a tag wired on to the harness next to the light on the back. mine is a Flint built GS. No AC
Tony
-
Dan my car is fremont car and the acc # tells me nothing about options. I you get a chance I would like to see some close up pic's of the screw locations for the counslette and how many because your's look's to have never been tampered with. Mine has had a square boot that is larger than the factory one and there are some extra hole's on the tunnel that might have been from a counsle would like to find out and if it did would like to maybe find one. thank's Glenn!
-
Glenn,
Three holes highlighted in yellow in the last pic.
-
Thank's Dan. Look's like I need to add a counselett to my wish list 'I have the same hole's plus the extra one's from the aftermarket boot. Glenn!!
-
A couple of friends had some time, a cherry picker was available and weather was warm, for Wisconsin, so we pulled the engine last week and took it to the rebuild shop. Won't get to it for a while though. Here are a couple of shots of the transmission. A little uglier than Mark's photos. Note the 'KR' marking on the side. Mark says that is the way they all came. Also the three 'rings' on the input shaft. All the '65 GS 4 speeds had high nickel content gears and are close ratio units. The close ratios have a 2.20 low gear vs. the 2.64 of the wide ratio. Makes it a bit more difficult to launch. Hope I got that all correct.
-
From the looks of the holes in the tailhousing, the shifter body was mounted to the rearward set of mounting holes? It is supposed to be mounted to the front set of mounting holes. The linkage is adjustable, so it can be put in either location, but it makes the shifter hit the edge of the hole in the consolette in 2nd and 4th gears.
-
Brian,
Thanks for the observation. Now I can put it back in correctly. Not sure if the car was actually driven with the shifter attached like that. The car was off the road for quite a while. The front holes without the bolts in were where the reverse light connector was mounted. Only there were no wires attached and the switch is pretty grungy.
Dan
-
The reverse light switch is reproduced--it is the same switch that fits a Muncie trans in all the chevy stuff. I can't remember if the repo switches come with the wires attached to them or not. The two wires that attach to it terminate in bullet connectors--the same ones that are on the backup lights, so you can harvest them off a set of no-good backup lights. The only difference is the wires in the backup lights are green, so to be correct, you would need to put some vinyl paint on the wire insulation.
The bracket is what is specific to the T10 and that is NOT reproduced, so don't lose the bracket that attaches the switch to those two side cover bolts.
If you need someone to go through the trans, send it on down here--I have rebuilt more T10s than I can count and know the tricks to keep them from jumping out of 2nd gear when you let off the gas and coast down.
-
Brian, The early 63 vette used the T-10. The T-10 reverse light bracket, shield and rod is avail as a repo from Ecklers Corvette. Ive seen a repo switch avail from Pontiac vendors, about $60. Not sure if the connectors are the same. I'll take a look at the next swap meet.
Dan, Trans usually has a vin stamped on it too. Look on either the top of the extension housing at the flange, or on the plate between it and the main case.
-
Time for an update on the project. The scheduled April date for delivery to the body shop actually turned out to be May 28th. The Charger from Hell is in front of me and nothing is going well on it.
In the meantime the engine was sent out to the builder and parts were ordered from Carmen Faso and others. It got a new cam, lifters, pushrods valve springs and rockers assemblies. The heads were rebuilt with hardened seats and new valves. The pistons are the stock 10.25 to 1 which, with the steel head gaskets, will probably actually turn out to be about 9.8 to 1. All the other usual things were done with bearings, etc. Carmen still has the 3922 AFB and distributor.
-
Another Update: The bumpers were sent out for replating and they must not be busy. I was told to expect a 3 ? 4 month wait and they were back in less than 2. Then while they were out I used a friends blasting cabinets and did bumper braces and anything else metal that would need a coat of paint. I had two good blinker housings so I tried the Eastwood gold cadmium kit on them. Turned out OK but I would plate them if I had to do it over.
-
Yet another update: the car is at the body shop and is being used as 'filler' work to save money. Wouldn't you know that as soon as my car gets in the shop gets busy. LOL. In the meantime the transmission and shifter have been rebuilt, the wheels painted with a gray for the inserts (thanks Brian for the color suggestion), the consolette redone and a shorty console located and restored. The dash board was redone earlier during the cold months.
Now the body shop is making some progress. The hood, trunk and front fenders have been soda blasted. The radiator support and inner fenders were media blasted. Man do the parts come out nice. California car's really have benefits. The fenders look like NOS parts.
-
Dan,
Looking good. You're flying right along.
Mark
-
Got a surprise today when I went to visit the convertible - color.
Turns out that this shop always puts a single color coat on the parts when they have completed the prep work.
Seems the color is just a bit lighter than what is on the car. What do you think ?
-
:headbang:I for one really like it.
My first '65 GS was an automatic convertible. Same body color with a black top and interior. I've liked that color ever since.
Keep the updates coming, Dan.
Loren
-
Looks good. Can?t wait to see it finished. :thumbsup:
-
It has been two months since the last update. Lots of little things getting done in that time - windows and wiring out, firewall cleaned off, soda blasting small parts, etc. Now the big items start. It was rolled over to the hoist and after bracing the doors the 14 body mount bolts were removed. They came out fairly easily. Then it was up in the air. The gas tank was removed - man was that stuff in the tank rancid. Wanted to see what the body looked like above the tank. Looks like body color to me but I can't tell if its was over spray or painted that way.
-
Dan,
You're making great progress. Isn't it a pleasure to work on a rust free desert car! Now that you have the body off the frame, check for the two places where the VIN is stamped on the frame. You might want to photo and post the location of the VIN on the frame to help others locate their frame VIN.
Do you plan to powder coat or paint the frame? This is going to one nice GS when complete. Keep the updates coming.
John
-
Looking great Dan! Love the color. Buicks look great in those light metallics.
My 66's had black underbodies, with quite a bit of color overspray. My Fremont cars have undercoating in the rear wheelwells and behind the rear wheels. My Baltimore cars had undercoating on the floors as well.
Looking forward to future updates, so keep 'em coming! :thumbsup:
-
Thanks for the comments. The frame is going to be painted not powder coated. The shop uses a very hard black primer. Its called CRE by them - corrosion resistant enamel. Plan is to paint the under body the same satin black. Not sure about any undercoating. Will probably do as Walt mentioned and undercoat the rear wheel wells.
I'll check the frame next time I'm at the shop for the VIN and part numbers.
Dan
-
Dan,
You're into the meat of the project now. Looking good. As Walt said, the Fremont cars had undercoat in the rear wheel houses and behind the rear wheels on the trunk floor. Let us know if your going to do that, and what you'll be using.
Mark
-
I know I don?t have to say this, but take your time and do it right. I will look forward to try it out next summer :sunny:
-
The car is coming along. Body is off the frame as last posted but the frame has been media blasted and painted with GM Restoration Chassis Black. Supposed to have the same flatness as the original factory paint. You can be the judge of that. The frame is very nice. Is as smooth as can be.
-
The body has also been soda blasted. The nice thing about soda blasting is that until the residue is rinsed off the metal will not rust. Does a great job too. Like a dunce I did not take a picture from way back so the whole body does not show.
Did get a surprise when it was found that the passenger quarter panel had been hit and repaired poorly. The body guy said I should get a quarter panel. Yeah, as if really nice 65 Skylark quarter panels are just laying around. I am leaning towards fixing the current panel and keeping it all original metal. Thought I would post several pictures for reference. That California metal is nice.
-
Great progress. Call me weird, but I love the look of bare clean metal! :tongue3:
If you want the interior floors to look original, they should be red oxide primer with LOTS of body-color overspray. Mark sent me pics of his 65 once upon a time.
Ames sells the original style paper-covered tar underlayment, if you want to go that route....
Time to start putting the chassis together!!
-
Walt,
Thanks for the kind words. Likewise on the bare clean metal. The chassis is going together now. New bushings have been pressed in. Kanter front end rebuild set installed. Going with regular steel brake and fuel lines but the shop is clear coating them. Heard too many stories about the stainless lines leaking unless really tightened.
I am familiar with how the floor should look but thanks for the reminder. When I changed the carpet in the post car I found the original floor covering. See pics. Got one of those underlayment kits from Ames. Actually Ames has quite a few items that are correct for the Buick.
Dan
-
Looking good Dan :glasses9:. I also use the GM restoration paint. On the body mounts I understand they are different ( smaller?) than the ones on the 68-72 Models. I always bought mine from CARS INC, they were identical to original. Have you bought yours or have a part # ?
Thanks,
DL
-
Dan,
All the work is looking good. It's great to see all the progress on the various cars on this part of the forum.
I would give the quarter repair all the effort you could muster before cutting it off.
And you'd have to find the sheetmetal.
DL, I used bushings from Year One, not exactly like original, but once in, you really can't tell.
I re-used all the original washers and bolts.
Mark
-
DL,
I bought mine from Ames Performance. Part number S382A https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/Detail_Web?part_num=S382A&order_number=2829606&web_access=Y. They also have a bolt kit Part Number S382BA.
Hope this helps.
Dan
-
I have a complete rear clip for sale, but it sounds like you would be looking for just one side so you might contact this guy, he has both sides for $375 each:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYLARK-1965-REAR-pass-side-1-4-PANEL-complete-/280790789486?hash=item41606f6d6e&item=280790789486&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1194 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYLARK-1965-REAR-pass-side-1-4-PANEL-complete-/280790789486?hash=item41606f6d6e&item=280790789486&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1194)
I believe he is in San Jose, CA.
-
I researched the heck out of this a few years ago for my '66 GS....
I've bought body mount kits from Year One ( hardware store-grade bolts were disappointing), CARS (same as everybody else but they cost more) and Ground Up. All the bushings looked the same, but the Ground-up kit at least had the correct flanged bolts included for $80 :thumbsup::
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=DCC-1515 (http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=DCC-1515)
If you want the best match to originals, I'd recommend the following:
1) The kit from Ground-Up, pn DCC-1515
2) There are 2 mounts over the rear axle that don't use bolts. (Puck bushings) You can get repos from the CARS spin-off site here: I believe Ames sells these too.
http://www.oldcarstuff.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1450 (http://www.oldcarstuff.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1450)
pn BM-11
Mounts behind the rear wheel are a larger diameter, about 2.5". The oldcarstuff BM4 and BM644 are close, but may be a little thicker.
Another source for individual bushings is www.restorationspecialties.com (http://www.restorationspecialties.com) I bought a few bushings from them to use for the rad support. A very close match, but I had to enlarge the ID.
Sigh... I think we should start a new thread about bushings. Maybe we can even convince Chris to sell a correct kit thru the 'DamnGoodAutoParts' store.
-
Walt,
On the cars mounts and cushions , the 68-72 if you buy the "kit" you get the generic chevy ones. But if you buy the individual bm644 you get the exact to nos ones. Not sure why this is. I will call and discuss if same scenario for the 65 ones, or of they simply have not had the correct ones made yet. I also pass on their generic hardware. I re plate my originals or have gotten them from AMKproducts.com. However they don't have the exact pointed tip as originals but will work. Does anyone sell a good '65 assembly manual ? Wondering if certain mounts and cushions were painted colors for their locations like 70 models.
Feel free to move these post to anther thread to not interrupt Dan's restoration. :occasion14:
DL
-
Well the frame is at the rolling stage. Doesn't look too bad. It will get cleaned up, a sheet of plastic put over it and then the body will be mounted to do the body work and other prep.
Question - the brake lines up front do not look right. What do you guys think ? Also included a picture of the axle brake lines.
Dan
-
Dan - Very Nice! Not an expert by any means but for reference I've posted a pic of my front block prior to removal. Hope that helps. Can you post a pic showing the rear spring area a little closer? Thanks.
Dwaine
-
Dan,
Another pic. About 20 minutes after it came out from under the body.
Mark
-
Dwaine,
Here is the only closer picture I have. Thanks for posting your shot. You too Mark. I can tell my front brake line is incorrect. I found the original line so I will try to make it work. Anyone know where to get 'correct' brake lines ?
Dan
-
It has been a long time since I have posted an update. It was decided to fix the quarter panel that is on the car (see # 45) and this took a bit of time. Then the body was shot with a color coat and it revealed that more preparation was needed. After the additional prep work another color coat, followed by a clear coat, was done.
In the meantime the dash, glove box door and ash tray were painted gray. This turned out to be a bit too shiny so a coat of satin clear was put over the color coat. No sanding or rubbing was performed. Before the windshield was installed (a date coded replacement from Auto City Classic) the pillar posts were painted white with SEM paint. The windshield was then installed.
Next step is to hang the doors, fenders, core support, trunk and hood and spray with a final color and clear coat.
-
Coming along pretty nice!
-
Anyone know where to get 'correct' brake lines
I make my own. A roll of 3/16" tubing is under $30 from NAPA. Fittings I buy from 'The Right Stuff'.
Your car is looking fantastic! Keep the pics coming!
-
Looking very good Dan.
Loren
-
X2. Your on the home stretch of the bodywork & paint process.
That has to make you feel pretty good!
Mark
-
Looks good, Dan.
-
The car was painted on Tuesday then sanded and buffed Wednesday and Thursday. It sure is shiny. The fenders are held on with three bolts each. The hood and trunk are just laying there. Next week the front end comes off and the engine and transmission go in.
The excitement continues.
Dan
-
:headbang: Dan,
It's looking really sweet!!! I'm a big fan of the color.
Thanks for keeping us posted with the pics.
Loren
-
Dan,
Looking good! Looks like you will have it home soon to start the fun part of putting it back together. I am also a fan of the Aqua Mist, especially with the white interior and white top. Keep the photos coming.
John
-
Dan,
I agree that color really does look great. I am curious what you are thinking for tires. I am normally partial to red stripes, but some kind of white lettered sidewall might look pretty cool with that color.
Can't wait to see it in person.
Rob K
-
Thanks for the kind words. The color is better than expected. The Turquoise Mist has that blue hue to it
Rob, the car will be getting whitewalls. But there is a set of redlines in the garage.
Dan
-
Looks nice Dan, can?t wait to see it live. I have a suggestion for wheels. What about steel wheels with dog dish? I know it is not year correct, but I actually think of doing that to my own.
-
Just a few more pictures of the progress. Rolling chassis is done and the body has been dropped back and all the body mounts secured.
Starting to look like something but there's a long way to go.
Dan
-
Very nice. When you get the chance, keep the pics coming.
Thx
-
Beautiful Dan! Love that color !
Question, are those "french locks" on the exhaust manifold bolts ?
DL
-
DL, yes those are french locks. Thanks for the compliment.
Dan
-
Just a few more pictures of the progress. Doors are on. Trunk splatter painted (GM Restoration spray can with a satin clear coat). Radiator support in. Thanks to Jim for the fuel filter holder.
Dan
-
Dan,
Nice. Where did you get this?
Mark
-
Dan,
Looking closer to the finish line, have to say the fuel filter bracket looks nicer than when I sent it to you
Must say you are making that car almost too nice to take for a drive
Regards,
-
Mark,
Ames Performance part number M241. $20.
Dan
-
Dan,
Awesome - thanks!
Mark
-
Front end is on.
-
Dan
Is John and Karen's little people crew alive and well in your neck of the woods?
I can't believe how well this is coming together.
You also can't believe how envious I am of this project.
In 1972 I had this color combination in a California 64 Skylark with White Bucket interior.
You know the rest of the story. I never should have sold it but life happened.
Really looking forward to seeing it.
Milton
-
Milton,
Unfortunately John and Karen's little people stay very close to home. Could use their help.
Thanks for the kind words.
Dan
-
Its back home !!! After a little more than a year at the body shop the convertible finally saw the light of day. And my garage.
Lots to do yet.
-
:hello2: That's always an exciting day. Looks beautiful Dan.
DL
-
Yes, it is a great day when they make it back home.
Sure wish I was closer Dan. It would be a lot of fun to the finish line.
Keep it rolling Dan,
Loren
-
Assemble, assemble, you don?t have time for uploading pics. In 6 weeks I expect the great tour around Green Bay in an open 4 speed GS :icon_biggrin:
Looks so nice.
-
He needs to keep uploading pics to keep me motivated. More Dan...
Looks great!
Mark
-
Dan,
You're making great progress. Keep it up and you'll be driving it around by fall. I really like the look of the redline tires on it. Sweet!
John
-
John,
Those are just the redlines I had on the red car. Needed something that would roll good. Different wheels and tires later.
Dan
-
Working in the garage in the morning when its not so hot (OK its not KC hot or even BCA hot but it has been in the mid nineties for seven straight days and this is in Green Bay) some progress is being made. The wiring is all in and working. The blower motor didn't work at first but traced that to the switch. As luck would have it there was an NOS one on eBay. The windows go up and down just not very well. Dash is all assembled. Put on one wheel opening molding. Grill and lights are on. Should have the first time start up next Tuesday. Amazing how long all the little things take.
Dan
-
IT'S ALIVE !!!
After fixing one big issue we got the motor fired up and running. Ran long enough to break in the cam and burn some paint off the engine.
The issue was that the engine builder put the engine on a wooden stand/pallet for transport to the body shop. When he did he put a 2x4 under the front part of the oil pan, but not far enough forward. He dented the pan. A quick turn over of the engine had the crank hitting the pan. As you know pulling the pan is not possible with the engine in place so we got one of those body shop tools that weld 'nails' onto metal and then with a slider pulled out the dent. Fixing the pan will be a pain but better than pulling the engine.
Dan
-
It is possible to pull the pan with the engine in the car--I have done it. You have to take the engine mounts loose and jack the engine up as far as it will go until the transmission hits under the floor pan. You can then get the oil pan off.
Where did you find the rear convertible style power window regulators? How did you change the blower motor with the fender installed?
-
Dan,
You will have this convertible finished before the end of summer. Looking good, you're making great progress. Did you have any problems getting the side glass to line up with the top frame? I'm still not done adjusting my glass and top frame yet. I've adjusted all the glass and top frame so many times, sooner or later I'll get it right. Patience.
John
-
Brian,
You are the wizard ! It's amazing how easy the 'nails' came off and basically left very little behind. Will be a quick clean up and respray. Masking off the bottom will take longer than the painting. :laughing7: The blower was fine, it was the switch that was bad which is why the blower motor did not work. Lucky. If it had been the motor then the fender would have had to come off. The regulators are from Auto City Classic. Except for the wiring harness they are very close to the originals. Uses the same grounding method, etc. The car has the wiring harness that you supplied via Mark Ascher and the windows work fine. Except ....
John,
Have had so many small issues with the windows its amazing. There are just too many combinations of adjustments. The body shop even did a mediocre job on these so have gone back to square one. Last issue was the rear vertical window run felt decided to start bunching up so those are getting replaced. The top frame has not been adjusted either. It's just at a so-so state. Goal now is to get the windows to go up and down smoothly and have the upper and lower stops adjusted properly. Then the top will get adjusted to the windows. How many point deduction would I get for having Jon's redlines on it ? :laughing7:
Would like to be able to get it judged in Bowling Green.
Dan
-
Dan,
Adjusting the side glass to each other is tough enough, then it's got to line up with the top frame / weatherstripping. It's really frustrating to get the glass where you think it should be only to find out that the side glass has to move in or out to line up with the top. Having power windows complicates things even more because the battery wears down from the constant adjusting. I assume that you temporarily attached the top weatherstripping to adjust everthing. Then you take the weatherstripping off to install the top fabric, then the weatherstripping is screwed and glued in place. Therefore, everything must fit correctly before the top fabric is installed. Good luck with the process.
According to the BCA Judging Guidelines, one point is deducted for each tire that was not available for that year or model. Redlines were not available on the Skylark GS until 1966. Radials were not available until 1967. When I drove my convertible to the 2006 BCA Nats in MN and the 2010 BCA Nats in Iowa, I drove on an extra set of wheels with radials tires. Before the show I put on the bias ply "show" tires and wheels. Four tires plus the spare will fit in the trunk. I did not want to drive at highway speeds with bias ply tires. Scary.
John
-
John,
As usual you are correct. Everything has to be correctly fit before the top is installed.
Driving on bias ply tires ? That would be scary. Old enough to remember it. Ugh.
Any deduction for used vs. brand new tires ?
Dan
-
Dan,
According to the BCA Judging Guidelines, 1 or 2 points are deducted for excessive wear, dirt or damage to tires. However, non-authentic tires are not judged for condition. So if my understanding is correct, only 4 points total should be deducted for non-authentic tires. I suppose the same goes for the spare tire. I am getting this information from the BCA website / documents/ judging manual. Page 63 and 64 on this link.
http://www.buickclub.org/BCA%20JUDGING%20MANUAL/BCAjudgingrev2.pdf (http://www.buickclub.org/BCA%20JUDGING%20MANUAL/BCAjudgingrev2.pdf)
I do not know if the GSCA uses the same guidelines or if they have their own.
John
-
John,
Thanks for the link. Should have asked for it before.
Dan
-
Have been slowly making progress on the convertible. Got bogged down figuring out a couple of items - carburetion and brake lights.
The carb was purchased as a remanufactured item and then had a rebuild kit put in it. The short of it is the engine ran like crap but figuring out that it was the carburetor took a while. Sent the bugger off to Carmen and he had it back to me inside a week. Needed a bit of machining and such. Runs fantastic now.
Then no brake lights. Finally had to resort to reading the wiring schematics and using a test light. Turn signal switch was the culprit.
Really does give you an appreciation for how the factory could turn out all those cars so quickly that worked so well the first time.
Mounted the bumpers - rear needed a bit of tweaking.
With Brian's help figured out how the carpeting and consolette coexist.
With Tom T's help got the gas pedal and heat duct I needed. Sweet.
Dan
-
Lookin good Dan,
Good luck with repo pedal pads :icon_biggrin:
DL
-
Dan,
Just my $.02.
I have had the opportunity to have judged at a few nationals and also captained a team.
The key thing we were always told to keep in mind, "the vehicle should look as it would have when delivered to the first owner".
The frustrating thing I find in the process, is that you can not judge in the class you are in. I do see the reasons for that , but also have seen the other side of the coin. That being, some incorrect decisions because a judging team member does not always know what is correct for a specific model and year.
Example in the battery cable discussion that was on a thread here.
Hope that helps in some way,
Loren
-
A prime example. My '68 Conv was discounted in AMES for radial tires. Now, I had the letter from Buick from Mike Tromm showing they were available. The car still achieved SR Gold, So I did not B**** about it.
In an event like BCA where car's from teens-1990's judged much more difficult. Then say GS Nats where primarily 65-72, and some turbo cars. Although they are working together this year to invite all Buick to Bowling Green.
DL
-
DL,
Repo pedal pads were a breeze :icon_biggrin: Getting the carpet glued down should not be though :laughing1: Doing an 'alignment' now. Front end looked like it belonged on a Massey Ferguson.
Dan
-
With Brian's help figured out how the carpeting and consolette coexist.
With Tom T's help got the gas pedal and heat duct I needed. Sweet.
That's what this website is all about. Looking good Dan. You're on the home stretch.
John
-
You are right John. Thanks for your generous offer of a gas pedal too.
Dan
-
DL,
Repo pedal pads were a breeze :icon_biggrin: Getting the carpet glued down should not be though :laughing1: Doing an 'alignment' now. Front end looked like it belonged on a Massey Ferguson.
Dan
Just pick a nice 100F degree day there :idea1:, and let it relax a little. Are you planning on using 3M spray glue ?
DL
DL
-
DL,
You mean like this ? GB doesn't get 100 degree days so had to make do with 90. Yes, using 3M spray adhesive. Any tips ?
Dan
-
Dan,
It's looking so good! Reminds me of my first GS. Only difference was it had an auto trans.
Keep the updates coming. I'm looking forward to seeing it in person.
Loren
-
Dan,
Did you buy auto or 4 speed carpet kit ? I assume its ACC ?On the later models have to use Auto carpet kit even on a 4 speed. Yours appears to fit pretty well though!
DL
-
DL,
Bought the 4 speed carpet. Auto carpet is the only way to go regardless of what transmission is in the car. The carpet is ACC but the 4 speed carpet seems to be made for a Chevelle. The 'hump' is very pronounced.
Thanks for the compliment. Lots of time went into the fit. Still a little way to go.
Dan
-
Video of the first drive in the convertible. Middle part is lame as all I'm doing is turning around in a driveway but look at the positives - you get to see my shiny head and watch the overflow hose drag :icon_biggrin:
http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r229/dsags/?action=view¤t=FirstDrive8-31-12.mp4# (http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r229/dsags/?action=view¤t=FirstDrive8-31-12.mp4#)!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs145.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr229%2Fdsags%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DFirstDrive8-31-12.mp4
-
Congrats Dan! that's a great milestone! car is beautiful.
PS: need to trade that Lexus in on a Regal GS! :icon_biggrin:
DL
-
Very nice Dan!! :hello2: :hello2: My next trip to Titletown, I'll be looking for your car, well and you too. :icon_biggrin: Of course, my big rig wouldn't get down your street either. :overthetop:
-
Dan,
Oh for the glare of it all. lol We share the same challenge, follicly speaking that is.
Happy daze!! When can I come for a ride?
Looking great!
Loren
-
Looks good. Glad to see it almost finished and driving. Hope there will be some days you can enjoy it before winter comes. Congrats :hello2:
-
Finally got around to taking some pictures with the new top on.
-
Dan
I'm in love with your car.
Can't Wait to see it in person.
Snowed a little here today in Minnesnowta.
I guess I will have to wait for BCA Nationals.
Congratulations
Milton
-
Dan,
You're making great progress. Looks like you just need to finish off the interior. I love that color combination. Very very nice!!!
John
-
Can not seem to find the blushing emoticon. Thanks John and Milton for the kind words.
-
What a beauty Dan, do you still have the plastic on the seat covers ? :icon_biggrin:
DL
-
Thanks DL. Yes plastic is still on the seats :bootyshake: How's the red one coming ?
-
Dan, your car is absolutely gorgeous!! :occasion14: :occasion14: As Milton so adroitly stated, I am also in love with it. :thumbsup: