65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
Projects & Restorations => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: option B9 on October 20, 2023, 06:37:27 PM
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I last posted on July 12th, To say the least I've been very busy working on 2 Gran Sports this past summer. Most of the time on the Red Coupe, but in between the code Z hardtop had to have some love too.. By the end of June the suspension & brakes were completed and a new set of tires was necessary, so 215/70R14 went on the front and 245/60R14 in the rear along with a new 215/R7014 for the spare. I then removed and restored the console then added a correct tach. The drivers seat was in very poor condition with springs coming thru what was left of the vinyl. So the seat was sent out for repair and a good used original seat cover was installed (thanks Loren).
I had noticed that the crossover pipe was leaking, so it was removed blasted and a repair kit was installed. Well since I was doing that I might as well replace the leaking heater core and maybe get rid of that awful smell ! Yes, it was the original core ! So I had to drill out that bolt and when the core box was removed I had a mess to deal with, the firewall insulation was soaked with years of antifreeze and that's where the smell was from. So I removed all the insulation, scraped the rust scale, cleaned & painted the firewall and no more smell. The heater box was restored and the proper Brass/Copper core was added (thanks to Summit Racing).
I cleaned up the engine compartment and painted the engine Buick green, added the chrome dress-up kit that I've had sitting in a box for over 20 years.. I took the GS out for a drive one afternoon and got caught in a rain storm, afterwards I opened the trunk to find lake Skylark !! So I guess I should address the crispy cornflakes under the vinyl top ? So one afternoon I removed the lower window stainless & cut open the vinyl top to find that the tin worm ate most of the rear deck (see photos) I don't have the time to repair it this year, but I know what I will be doing next August..So I used some tape and a tube of black silicone and made temporary repairs until next year. I have 2 more major items that need to be addressed The replacement of the engine compartment wire harness and the turn signal light switch assembly. I will get to it.. eventually.... The adventure continues.
Tony
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more photos
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Wow! The metal worms really did a job on that. Shame you're on the east side. James Bosman has a complete top for sale in Sturgeon Bay, WI.
Loren
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I contacted Jim this week, He is going to cut out the sections that I need and ship them out to me.
Tony
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I contacted Jim this week, He is going to cut out the sections that I need and ship them out to me.
Tony
That's fantastic.
Loren
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Really nice restoration work, Tony! Sorry you've found such trouble with that crispy top! Great that you've found parts to support the repair. Enjoy your time off until work resumes!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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That rusty roof looks all to familiar . Ended putting a new roof on my hard top . Looking good though keep up the good work Tony .
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Dear Tony, Loren, Chuck, John, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks Tony for bringing us up-to-date with your third GS! These cars were never intended to last this long especially in the tough climate of East Coast. Indeed, they need lots of 'luv!
Edouard
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Keep up the good work Tony!
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Love the color combo! Keep pecking away at it!
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Thanks for the support everyone, Isn't It crazy how these Buicks just seem to find us ! Will we ever get to the point where we are finished and can just sit back and say "Wow, I'm done". Every time I think I'm close, another Special/Skylark needs to be rescued... But thanks to the 65GSregistry and this website, it makes the work that much more rewarding. :cheers2:
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi everyone, The last post was in October of 2023, so I have some catching up to do. I like to do as much work on the GSs as I can, but since the Red Coupe is taking up most of my time. I decided to reach out and have some of the necessary work done on the code Z so it's a real good driver and the rust repair & painting I will deal with after the Red Coupe is completed and I'm happy with the performance.
On April 7th code Z was driven to upstate NY and left at my friend John's shop with a list of items to check, update or replace. The very questionable original engine harness was replaced. Then an Lectric Limited Electronic ignition conversion Kit was installed. Front end alignment, New front brakes. all 4 brake drums were cut, engine & trans fluid & filters were changed. Then the steering wheel was removed and the horn now works on the horn bar instead of a button on the dash ! The steering wheel is cracked so bad that it's effecting the horn bar and must be replaced soon. I picked up the GS on April 15th, and it runs great !
Today I had an appointment to have a new custom bent Dual Exhaust installed, as per my request they used 2 turbo mufflers, along with 2 1/8 pipe and added a H pipe to balance the exhaust. It sounds great, now I'm ready for the Long Island Chapter Buick Show on May 28 & Summer cruising... :wave:
Tony
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Great progress Tony! I don't know where you find the time to do two projects at once. What a great multitasker!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Hi everyone. Since the Red GS is not back from the upholstery shop yet, this afternoon when the temperature cooled down my son Steven & I tried to solve a right rear intermittent brake light problem on the code Z hardtop. First I removed the drivers seat so I can get easy access to the wires under the dash, Since I cannot bend, twist and work upside down like I was in my 20s, removing the seat is just easier ! (Steven laughed when I put a quilted movers blanket on the floor before I laid down) With a LED work light and my test light I checked all the connections. I removed the brake light switch from the housing so the brake light would stay on. We shook all the wires to the rear harness and the light stayed on ?? Then he shook the Steering wheel and the light went off, shook it again and it went back on. So the problem is the wiring in the column. As I stated in my last post, the steering wheel is in terrible condition, so I'm going to remove it and replace it with a Grant wood wheel, that's if they have an adapter to fit a 65 Skylark. If anyone has done this, please let me know what I should or should not do since I have never tried this before.
OPGI has either wiring harness but I will not know until I take the steering wheel off.
Other than that problem, the more I run it the better off it sounds. I had it out on the highway Two weeks ago
for a Two hour trip and it ran perfectly..
Tony, GO NAILHEAD :cheers2:
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Great progress on the post! Glad to see you driving the silver bullet! I think the grant kit you need is 4187!? I would put a Buick rally steering wheel in myself! Can be bought new with hub Chevy suppliers! Just need a Buick horn button! This has been discussed here on the board I believe!? Have to find the post! Maybe others will chime in!!! Changing the switches and bearings on a floor shift column is not that hard as you don’t have shift levers and the like to deal with! Basically pull wheel, drop column down, unscrew switches ,there is a wire cover that needs to be removed with a little clip; be careful with the clip as it tends to go flying, remove turn signal lever, once the the turn signal switch is unscrewed then the hub needs to be pulled up and apart so the switch can be pulled out and replaced! Repete process! Make sure your turn signals are getting a good ground as this also causes intermittent problems! Extra ground wires on the taillight harness helps! Loren knows how to help this problem!
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Thanks gssizzler, yes I'm going to see what's out there and pick a wheel. But that's not going to happen until I return from the national meet because I'm sure the GS will be out of service for at least a week. By the time I take it apart and order the parts and get it all back together. I will post photos when I work on it.
I will be seeing Loren in Ohio and I will ask him about the ground wires for the rear harness, I always thought that was one of the weak points in the early Special/Skylark series cars. A twist lock third wire socket design would have been a better choice. But that design came years later.
I'm very pleased with the performance of this GS and the Red GS coupe, the Convertible has very low gears and driving on the highway is a chore, but it is what it is and I made it to the BCA Buffalo meet in 2001 and Flint and back in 2003 so I should not complain.
Tony :icon_thumright:
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Hi everyone, Due to a high pressure system, the north east is having some really great dry warm weather. So that means that I get to do some needed work on the Code Z hardtop. Today I pulled the severely cracked original steering wheel off, then proceeded to remove the cancel cam/wire harness. I was having trouble with the right rear brake light. It would work intermittently, I traced the problem back to the column. So tomorrow I will test the harness and see if I find the problem. If not I will order a new GUIDE wire harness.
I took some photos of the steering wheel, I highlighted the cracks. With lessons learned from the Red Coupe's wheel restoration. This wheel is going to be restored a different way. I've been looking into an adhesive to prevent the wheels plastic from shifting causing cracking due to temperature changes and stresses. This is going to be a slow Fall/Winter project. I'm going to install the already restored formally Red now Black wheel on the Code Z. Several days ago I polished the Black paint with some 3M Ebony and it looks great and you can hardly see the spider cracks that appeared after restoration.
Until next post....
Tony :thumbsup:
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More Photos
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Hi Tony and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Hi everyone, Due to a high pressure system, the north east is having some really great dry warm weather. So that means that I get to do some needed work on the Code Z hardtop.
Lucky you!
Today I pulled the severely cracked original steering wheel off,
. . .
I took some photos of the steering wheel, I highlighted the cracks. With lessons learned from the Red Coupe's wheel restoration.
Those are the same locations where Biquette's steering wheel developed cracks. Whatever the cause, it seems to be endemic to our beloved Buick A-Bodies.
This wheel is going to be restored a different way. I've been looking into an adhesive to prevent the wheels plastic from shifting causing cracking due to temperature changes and stresses. This is going to be a slow Fall/Winter project.
That is a neat project for when the weather really turns nasty. I'm looking forward to seeing how this new technique works out.
then proceeded to remove the cancel cam/wire harness. I was having trouble with the right rear brake light. It would work intermittently, I traced the problem back to the column. So tomorrow I will test the harness and see if I find the problem. If not I will order a new GUIDE wire harness.
I hope this goes well. Electrical problems have at least one advantage: they never leak nasty, smelly, and messy substances when the connection fails!
Keep us posted!
Edouard
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Hi Everyone, here is an update... Had to order a new turn signal switch and the hardware that goes with it. I worked on it one day last week, had it all installed and noticed that there was a problem ! The brass contact on the switch was not contacting the cancel cam ? The brass contact was not coming out all the way. It was getting late and forecast was for cold weather the next few days, so it gave me time to think. Should I return it OR try to repair it ? I looked at the long range forecast and this weekend was going to be the last weekend before the Winter sets in. So repairing it was the best option. Yesterday I removed the switch (Photo 850) and placed on my workbench and got a good look at it and noticed that there was hardly any spring tension, so surgery on the switch was the answer. (Photo 854) I removed the clip holding the spring, wire and ferrule. Cut the wire and found the problem ! The spring was too weak to push the brass contact all the way out. I looked in my box of springs and found a spring that would push the brass contact out with enough pressure to contact the cancel cam allowing the horns to activate (Photo 851 & 855). Soldered the ferrule back on and pushed the retainer clip back in and re-installed the switch, cancel cam AND the restored (was Red now Black) steering wheel (Photo 856) Looks great ! Today we had the Code Z out at a car club event to support our local Children's Hospital. A great way to close the 2024 season.. Code Z will be hibernating until Spring 2025 :sleepy2:
Tony :thumbsup:
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Hi Tony,
Thanks for the update and how you repaired the fault.
For whatever reason I seem to be avoiding working on my steering column, perhaps you have provided the inspiration I need to get it done.
Regards
Marcus
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Good work Tony! It seems some of the reproduction parts just don't always get the job done. Disappointing, but glad you got it fixed and enjoyed the last show of the season.
:cheers2:
Chuck