65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => Q & A => Topic started by: 35chevcoupe on March 14, 2020, 10:37:55 PM
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Hey all . Restoring my wing windows and wondering who makes the best fitting rubber parts for them .
Anyone have a preference on which one to buy or experience doing this ?
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I have the same question but for a 66. The answer will probably be the same, thanks.
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I've heard it generally considered that Steele makes the best seals and weatherstripping. Economy got the best of me though, and I bought all Metro for my restoration. I haven't put the vent windows together yet, but could do that soon and report back. The sales rep at CARS said they sell Metro, Soffseal and Steele and have no problems with any of them. The Metro product on Rockauto is just hard to pass up at their prices!
I'll let you know how I make out.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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So we tackled this project today and I came away frustrated. The Metro rubber fits nicely around the wing window, but we can't seem to get it to seat into the big diecast chromed piece on the leading edge of the upper door on hardtops and convertibles. Research so far seems to indicate that, unlike the originals, the reproduced seals do not have a steel backing in the area where the three clips were used to secure it to the channel in the diecast piece. I called Steele and they said their seals don't have the steel rib either. So now I'll be looking into the installation process hoping for some tips that those with experience can share to work this out.
Bottom line, I can't comment on whether one vendor's product is superior. I'll update if I find a path to success.
Chuck
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For what its worth Chuck, everyone thinks the wing vent windows seal installation is a difficult job.
http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,20.75.html (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,20.75.html)
On page 6 Mark Ascher, Tom Westrup and John Egel (three very good restorers) all bitch about the process. Tom actually found nice used ones and put them in.
Dan
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Thanks for that Dan. I knew this would be difficult, but thought maybe Dick and I could make a silk purse out of a sows ear. Not this time! It appears I should be looking for a reasonably nice set of used vent windows to harvest the seals from....
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Has anyone tried the vent window seals from Precision? They are a Wisconsin company that I've not heard of before. I called them this morning and they confirmed that their seal does have the steel imbedded in the rubber like the originals do. This is the only replacement I'm aware of that is built like the original. That's a positive, but I'm also interested in how it fits. Lacking the experience of others, I'll probably order a set and give it a try. I'll keep you posted as I proceed.
Chuck
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Chuck , that's good to know . Ill be picking up my chrome parts from the plating shop next week .
What did you do for finishing of the steel channel frame work ?
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My friend the restoration guru paints his in a steel color. I had mine clear zinc plated. I think either is fine. They aren't visible when the car is assembled...
Fingers crossed on the Precision seals, I ordered them today. Hope it's not just wishful thinking!
Chuck
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I received the new seals from Precision on Monday. And was in for a surprise. The long section that installs into the big chrome diecast piece does have a small steel plate imbedded in the rubber, just like the originals do. These are the only ones I've found that have this feature. Even the Steele parts do not have this. The originals had three small clips that gripped around the rubber and the steel plate to hold the seal and were then staked into the channel on the diecast piece to hold them in place. Every supplier of the seals that I've talked to said ditch the clips and just glue them in with weatherstrip adhesive. I have the original clips, but chose not to use them after a first attempt with the Metro seals and convincing myself that I didn't have the right tools to properly seat those clips in the channel. I had also heard from Rollaround that he had experience installing seals that had residual mold release powder on them that enabled pretty easy insertion of the seal into the channel. So I bought some baby powder and decided to use it to promote the rubber sliding on the metal surfaces.
So yesterday, my friend and I tackled this project with the Precision seals. This is a kind of chronology of the process:
- Installed the two stainless steel covers on the top verticals of the sheet metal frame.
- Installed the bottom seal onto the sheet metal vent window frame. I put some baby powder on the seal and was able to get the end of the seal that seats against the vertical surface to start on the metal frame and slid it down to its "home". Once happy with its location I worked the end of the seal onto the metal frame to get it seated properly. I had to trim the end of the seal with an Exacto knife on one of the seals to allow it to seat better at the "V".
- Installed the vent window into the sheet metal frame, inserting the threaded stud through the lower seal and the frame.
- Powdered the seal section to be inserted in the diecast piece, cleaned the bottom surface with degreaser where it would adhere to the bottom of the channel, and applied a liberal bead of adhesive into the channel.
- Inserted the seal into the diecast frame by pushing it down with my fingers to get it started, inserted and tightened the two big screws that fasten the frame to the diecast piece, and then inserted and tightened the small screw that holds the frame to the diecast piece at the other end.
- Then got serious about working the seal into the bottom of the channel so that it seated properly. I was not able to get it absolutely tight on the outside at the "V", but it was tons better than my previous experience with the Metro seals.
- Installed the vertical window seals and secured the tabs into the metal frame.
- Installed the vertical run channel "fuzzy". This required removing the small screw at the top of the vent window frame, getting the molded end of the run channel seated, then reinserting the screw through the run channel, the frame and into the diecast piece.
- Trimmed the run channel to length, then cleaned excess adhesive with degreaser, hit the glass with some Windex, and we were done.
Pictures are attached. They didn't turn out perfect, but the small gaps near the "V" were the only areas that didn't seat perfectly, and I'll be happy with the result.
So, I highly recommend the Precision vent window seals. Info on them can be found here, for hardtops and convertibles: https://www.prp.com/product/detail/351662?SearchType=AGR&sort=u.Name&paginationCount=24&year=1965&make=Buick&model=Skylark&type=All (https://www.prp.com/product/detail/351662?SearchType=AGR&sort=u.Name&paginationCount=24&year=1965&make=Buick&model=Skylark&type=All)
I bought them here at a significant discount and they were drop shipped from PRP in Wisconsin: https://www.ocautocarpets.com/wn-product/vent-seal-kit-15833/ (https://www.ocautocarpets.com/wn-product/vent-seal-kit-15833/)
I also bought all the other seals that they offer for the 65 Skylark, to use on the Verde Howitzer or the Red car; the prices are just too good to pass up!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Good post,
I remember doing these and thinking it was a pain,but I do not remember which company I used. I do know the little clips were re-used from my originals and there was some swear words in the process. The problem for me (and you if I remember correctly)was the wider chrome trim option on top of the doors. I searched everywhere and found different photos,but still was not sure if the wing rubber overlapped the chrome or tucked behind it. After trying it both ways I decided to slide them in behind trim even though GTO guys said it was wrong. It looked very clean and I was not going to have any water problems with a car that was never wet. Perhaps the seal you have is different,but let us know how it fits there. Dan
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Thanks for the info about OC Auto Carpets, Chuck. I just bought a weatherstrip set for each of my two cars and paid less than I would have for one set from Steele!