65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => Q & A => Topic started by: seanrobison65 on February 29, 2020, 01:10:42 PM
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Does anybody know of a source for this little chingalinga right here? I looked at all the usual vendors for repro parts, but no luck.
This car spent the last 13 years cooking in a Central Texas cow pasture, and pretty much everything not made of metal is toast!
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I have a 1964 Skylark and I ordered the glove box door rubber stuff from "CaddyDaddy"
caddydaddy.com
Door grommet
70-1704-88
door bumpers
33-0128-88RS
Check bumper
70-1459-88
The items show the measurements on the details page.
There is a minimum order of $25.
I also received an email questioning my application since it the parts were listed for different year Cadillacs, and I explained they were for a Buick Skylark and I understood I was rolling the dice.
It was a tight fit, (top to bottom) and I had just repainted my dash, so I did not want to hit the hole with the flat file, but it was maybe .050 off.
Enough that the grommet had a bit deformed along one long side.
I used a little "Shoe Goo" and it looks like factory.
It has been a couple of years, and still looks fine.
:)
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Thats GREAT Mike! A lotta early guys are looking for that; another unobtanium piece! Did you soak it in hot water before the install? Its hard to believe that GM would have needed a supplier to manufacture an otherwise "insignificant" part in various sizes. By insignificant, you realize thats one of those parts we didnt give a hoot about 40 years ago and now cant be found right? Its good to see some division crossfitting on some of this stuff like the trunk seal weatherstripping debaucle going on across the hall and more... Bill
Ill keep CaddyDaddy.com as a fave!
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No need to soak it. It is pretty pliable/pliant (sqooshy?)
I noticed it is a wee bit longer. Since I just painted the dash with a single stage metallic, and did not want to mix a batch just for touchup, I decided not to us a file to make the slot a little longer, and put it in and used a little "Shoe Goo" to glue it on.
Otherwise it wants to "pooch out" a little. (Being a perfectionist and all nitpicky, it bothered me, even setting in the garage, lights out, glove box door closed, convertible top up, windows rolled up, and I lay in bed, tossing and turning for three hours, and finally got up, went out and glued that sucker in right and proper.)
(over)slept like a baby...
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It is pretty pliable/pliant (sqooshy?)
Its supple ! Always liked that word LOL. After the shoe goo, did you insert a device to hold it until it cured; i.e. short screwdriver/wedgie thingy? Ya know them nocturnal judges come by at 3 a.m. with an eye loupe and an LED flash light to gauge the quality. haha... I know how it is pal. In about 2 hours I'm landing on Omaha Beach, and once ashore, theres no turning back.
:overthetop:
Ive been going over the landing scenario in my head for the last 3 weeks. I hope we struggle through to the ultimate victory. :boxing: Bill
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No, "supple" is what used to get me to stop wrenchin' on my car and come into the house...
I did put a piece of cardboard cut to fit and folded in half to hold it.
Can't wait to see the pics and read the AAR.
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I can definitely relate about the obsessive stuff, Mike. OCD might not be real healthy, but it sure makes projects turn out nice!
Thanks for the referral & part number! They are $15.14 and I'm gonna get one for each of the two cars, so I'll squeak by their minimum order amount.
Bill, would you like for me to order an extra for you so you don't have to deal with the $25 minimum? I can mail it to you then let you know what the shipping cost was.
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LOL
It has served me well, in life.
Very kind of you to offer that to Bill, Sean. :)
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^^^ What he said! Thanks Sean, mine is actually perfect since the car was stored inside since 1980. Ill probably kick myself later LOL. What the heck; can you see what the padded envelope will cost? Thanks, Bill
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You're very welcome! I actually have some small padded envelopes that I use for my eBay side business. I'd be surprised if shipping was even a dollar, considering how light that part is. If you want, I'll just get it in the mail then PM you the final cost. I'm ok with covering the 15 bucks until the parts come in, & you can PayPal me for the part & shipping after I send it to ya.
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Michael or others....
Any experience and advice on how to successfully rescue an original glovebox grommet from a dash panel? Is it hard plastic and prone to breakage in the process of taking it out? I've got a couple to rescue and would like to promote success!!
Thanks!
Chuck
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Thats great Sean! Thanks. Let me know when its in and Ill shoot you the PP and my address. Although mine is really good, I do plan on painting the dash and inside steel stuff and Im sure that will destroy the old one... Bill
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You?re welcome! I?ll let you know when I get it.
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I am batting 50% on removing and re-installing these. I removed the one from my 66 to paint the dash an it bit the dust, I was careful and removed one from a 67 parts car and was able to re-install it in the 66. Thanks For the part numbers, I still need one for a 67. I was able to look up the two 70 part# but not the 33 one.
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We had discussed this way back in 2016 on V8:
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/glovebox-door-check-grommet.309015/#post-2568147 (http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/glovebox-door-check-grommet.309015/#post-2568147)
We determined 1966 and 1970 both used the pn 4440369 grommet.
Replacements which looked close were the 1950-53 Cadillac #4573883 from 'Rubber the Right Way':
https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1950-cadillac-restoration-parts-glove-41471-prd1.htm (https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1950-cadillac-restoration-parts-glove-41471-prd1.htm)
and the equivalent #70-1704-88 from Steele:
https://www.steelerubber.com/glovebox-door-check-grommet-70-1704-88 (https://www.steelerubber.com/glovebox-door-check-grommet-70-1704-88)
Good to se Michael was the guinnia pig that went ahead and did the testing for us!
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...
Any experience and advice on how to successfully rescue an original glovebox grommet from a dash panel? Is it hard plastic and prone to breakage in the process of taking it out? I've got a couple to rescue and would like to promote success!!
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They are rubber, but as most things rubber not disintegrated by sunlight, are affected by heat and time.
They loose the plasticizers and natural oils over time and become hard and brittle as well as shrink.
I have been lucky with heat, but no more than about 140-160 F. Or dip an old wash cloth in boiling water, then lay that on the rubber, and it may help it become pliable. Then I use a heat gun to keep it hot for a couple of minutes.
I also used silicone grease/dielectric grease on the part and work it under the areas, coupled with the heat and have been lucky.
I also do the reverse to get a part in. (apply silicone) I have a Keurig coffee maker, run about 6 oz of water into a cup, plop the part in and wait about 2 minutes, then fish it out and put it in the hole. The silicone helps it slip around rather than "gripping".
It also works for the small round "bumpers" with the small rubber "pull through" tails, and helps keep from pulling them off.
And slow steady pressure is best.
Clean up of the grease can be done with a little Dawn and water, isopropyl alcohol (not denatured) or Windex, depending on the finish it is on.
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Thanks Michael. I tried my hand at it today and managed to destroy the two that I had. Looks like I'll be ordering a new one also... :BangHead:
Oh well, my wallet's been open for a long time! :laughing7:
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Appears to also be available from Fusick. Different part number but same 1950-1953 Cadillac application. And only $5.50. Think I'm going to order a couple and try them out!
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GB560 (https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GB560)
Chuck
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I've used silicone to soften the rubber when rebuilding turn signal sockets, but I never tried it to help install console/license plate/whatever bumpers. Thanks for the pointer, Michael!
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Ok, don't laugh.
KY Jelly or liquid works really well. It's water based, cleans up easily with a damp rag and won't leave the silicone residue that can cause problems with paint.
I got the tip from my urologist. You can laugh now.
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Ok, don't laugh.
KY Jelly or liquid works really well. It's water based, cleans up easily with a damp rag and won't leave the silicone residue that can cause problems with paint.
I got the tip from my urologist. You can laugh now.
That's funny!! But a great tip, nonetheless!!
Thanks Kevin!
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Your urologist gave you the tip?
Sorry, could not help it.
Plus I beat Bill aka... Yachtsmanbill before he can chime in.. :hello2:
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SOUNDS good to me LOL... Nothing like a pleasure enhancer working on a mundane little job. Was it mint flavored???? Bill
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Put a couple of new 'tools' in my shop this morning and went to work on a couple of projects. The first was installing the glove box grommet. I bought the grommet from Fusick: https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GB560 (https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GB560)
Only $5.50 plus $13.00 shipping, but I ordered some rear coil spring insulators as well, so got my money's worth. The grommet is nicely made and very pliable. Or should I say supple?? :laughing7:
I trimmed the front flange on the grommet to essentially match the profile of the rear side. Then I turned it around so that the rear side was facing out. I took the glove box door off and released the glove box liner for access to the back side of the rectangular hole in the dash. I was going to use the KY jelly to lube it up before installation, but decided to do a little dry fitting to see how it would most easily install. I'm being careful with how I word this... :headbang:
The fit looked good and I decided to try installing it without the lubrication, so proceeded to do that and it worked like a charm. Fits very nicely and no cleanup required.
Pictures attached of the grommet before and after trimming, a comparison of the trimmed grommet to a broken original and the final results.
Bottom line, I highly recommend the Fusick part for its value and found the installation process to be a breeze. FYI, YMMV....
Now on to installing vent window seals this afternoon. More on that later in the vent window seal thread.
Stay safe and be well!!
:cheers2:
Chuck
PS: The pictures will be in the right orientation when you open them...at least they are on my PC.
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Good information and nice job. Thanks for all the pictures.
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Ahh... The first picture is a real "before and after" LOL... My new grommet is in the parts cache... Bill