65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
Projects & Restorations => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: dlmwtvl on August 08, 2018, 12:09:57 PM
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Going back together!!
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Are you replacing the coil springs with those coil over shocks, or are the coil overs just for extra support?
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What is the large round stock running between the upper shock mounts? Part of the coil over setup?
Car looks great by the way!
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It is a coilover conversion from Global West.
Some drilling and fitting, but, overall, very impressed
With the quality. The tubular crosember is where the
shocks connect, at the top.
Now, I can adjust the ride height, as well as compression and rebound on the shocks.
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Very nice setup. What are the front coil springs rated at ?
Please let us know what the ride is like.
Dan
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The front coils are Moog #5246.
spring rate is 298 lbs/inch.
I went with tall spindles, with a two inch drop. I figured the OE spring would be best...We will see...
I will keep you posted on the ride.
David
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Great to see the progress! :thumbsup:
Thanks for sharing! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/thanks_sign.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Very nice, thank you for sharing the progress!
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That is very nice. Please keep the updates coming as you make progress.
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The front coils are Moog #5246.
spring rate is 298 lbs/inch.
I went with tall spindles, with a two inch drop. I figured the OE spring would be best...We will see...
I will keep you posted on the ride.
David
David, could you share a little information about your rear suspension setup?
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Sure :sunny:
I researched A body suspension for a very long time.
I decided on Global West parts, for the rear suspension.
TBC-4 Tubular rear control arms are very robust, and allow for the factory type sway bar. (I opted for a 1" bar)
They have a spherical bearing on the front, and their Del-A-Lum bushing on the rear.
TBC-47 adjustable rear upper control arms. They are also well made, with the spherical bearing on the front. The only rubber bushings are on the top ears of the original 8.2" diff. These arms allow for adjustment of the pinion angle.
TS-47 Rear frame supports, tie the front of the upper and lower control arms together. I believe the factory used a stamped steel version on the GS.
The COR-646V Rear coilover kit utilizes a tubular crossmember, to mount the Viking double adjustable coilover shocks. 10 holes to drill, and some fitting to get the kit in place. I am very impressed with the quality of all the parts!!
Being able to adjust the ride height, and, adjusting the shocks compression, and rebound, are important to me.
I want this car to ride like a Cadillac, and corner like a Corvette.
Removing frame and body flex was the next concern. Boxing the frame was first, as this is a straight Skylark.
Tony, at ABC performance, is great to talk to, and has a wealth of knowledge on these cars suspensions. They set me up with the frame boxing kit, and solid body mounts. The theme is, to let the tires and shocks take care of the ride, and not to rely on all the rubber bushings. They just deflect, and change all the crucial geometrical angles of the suspension.
Securing the body rigidly to the frame, almost completely eliminates any frame distortion. (twisting)
For the front suspension, I went with Detroit Speed's Tubular upper and lower control arms, with thier Delrin bushings. They are matched with thier forged, 2" drop, tall spindles.(disc brake) I will be able to get 4 degrees of caster, while keeping the wheel centered in the wheel well, as well as negating the camber gain under compression. (tall spindle, and shorter upper control arm.)
I used a factory style 1.25" sway bar.
David
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More progress..
Thank you all for your help on this journey!! :icon_thumright:
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More pics.
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Dear David and fans of nailhead green!
More progress..
Thank you all for your help on this journey!! :icon_thumright:
Thanks for sharing! :hello2: Gotta love d'em nailhead green engines!!! :angel4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Very nice David, and a peddle car too, who could ask for more.
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Hope you don't have to replace that stock starter after you get the car together.
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The progress on the car is impressive. Thank you for the detailed explanation on your suspension choices. It was very informative.
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More progress!!
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I guess! That?s a lot of progress!
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Oh yeah! We have touchdown!
Congrats!
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Hope you don't have to replace that stock starter after you get the car together.
Yep, I crawled under my '64 Skylark dragging the old Delco 10MT (MT stands for "megaton" as homage to the starter's great weight) after stuffing the nailhead in there and spent about 15 seconds trying to get it in place and then realized, not only did I not want to ever have to replace the beast, I did not want to put it in once. And knew I would have to pull the manifold and what not out of the way if it ever required service. So, I contacted Tom and had him send me on of his mini-starters.
This was another thing that I am more than 100% happy to have done.
Another was going with Loren to build my wire harnesses and mods rather than building all of it myself. It would have taken me nearly a year more with all that I did on the car, to have tackled the wiring myself. And the cost for the correct color and AWG for the wiring would have exceeded what I spent.
Just an unsolicited plug to engage the experts when you should.
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Dear dlmwtvl, Jim, Walt, Michael, and mid-60s Buick caregivers, . . .
More progress!!
Wonderful!! :hello2: I've said it before and I'll say it again! Gotta love 'dat Nailhead green!! . . . . :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Interior all in.
I wish I had the red console....or, at least the cover.
I am going to get the proper floor mats ( in red)
I ordered another shift boot. The one I have, is way too big.
And, YES, I hope the starter never has to come out!!
I had it rebuilt, by a reputable rebuilder.
I tested it, with all the plugs in. It spun over smoothly, and quickly, with 165 lbs. of compression.
Wiring and electronics next, then fuel tank and pump, then first start up.
After Cam break in, I will put the inner valve springs in, and put the nose back on.
Then, I will have to wait till spring to drive it!!!!!!
There is already a foot of snow on the ground here!!!!
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Very nice ! What manufacturers seat covers did you use ? Doesn’t look like Legendary as their red is almost orangish. You can paint/dye the center console and lid. I used SEM spray but others have had success with different brands.
Dan
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I love the project and your attention to detail. keep up the good work.
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Dear dlmwtvl, Dan, Bob, and mid-60s Buick restorers, . . .
Interior all in.
. . . .
Looks great! :hello2:
Wiring and electronics next,
. . .
Electronics? What sort of electronics are you considering - any aftermarket stuff?
Then, I will have to wait till spring to drive it!!!!!!
There is already a foot of snow on the ground here!!!!
Yes the seasons are turning and obviously where you are you'll have to wait for the spring thaw! Til then, keep daydreaming about that first drive!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hello Friends,
This one is done. I am happy with the finish product!!
Thank you for all your support!!
Sincerely,
David
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Wow, well done!!!
I like the fat tires, instrumentation and the retro under dash AC!
Build quality looks fantastic!
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That turned out great! Enjoy cruising in it! You do very nice work.
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I like that engine detail job, but PUHLEEZ get rid of that plastic fuel filter, especially that close to the exhaust manifolds! Bill
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Dear David, Walt, Jim, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
This one is done. I am happy with the finish product!!
It's absolutely beautiful! You did a wonderful job!
I like the fat tires, instrumentation and the retro under dash AC!
Sorry for being nosy, but exactly how did you do the underdash A/C? I thought of going this route and I try to keep track of all the clever tricks to get air conditioning into a car that didn't originally come with it.
Thanks for sharing photos of your masterpiece!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I bored the holes in the firewall, installed the grommets, and ran the lengths of hose through.
With the unit installed, figure what ends will work best. (straight, 90 deg., or 45 deg.)
Crimp them on, right there. Do the same for all connections. No extra, or twisted hoses, to contend with.
The unit is a little noisy. I may put a rheostat, in place of the 3 position switch. That way I can keep the fan turning slowly, once cooled down.
I will get some photos of the routing.
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Dear David and mid-60s Buick owners who want to be cool! :glasses9:
I bored the holes in the firewall, installed the grommets, and ran the lengths of hose through.
With the unit installed, figure what ends will work best. (straight, 90 deg., or 45 deg.)
Crimp them on, right there. Do the same for all connections. No extra, or twisted hoses, to contend with.
. . . .
Thanks for the info. That leaves just one key question: which underdash unit did you go with? Is this the reproduction that Vintage Air sells or something else?
Thanks again!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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It is a UD-110 unit, from Nostalgic A/C.
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Dear David and mid-60s Buick owners who want to be cool! :glasses9:
It is a UD-110 unit, from Nostalgic A/C.
Okay, I wasn't even aware of Nostalgic A/C so thanks for the reference! For the curious, here is a link to the UD-110 system:
https://nostalgicac.com/ud-110-under-dash-a-c-only-evaporator-unit.html (https://nostalgicac.com/ud-110-under-dash-a-c-only-evaporator-unit.html)
Was there a particular reason why you chose this model? I'm being nosy because I have a friend in New Mexico with a 1964 Skylark that doesn't have A/C. He was planning to install the original Buick system, but obviously that's going to be a lot of work. I'm picking your brain to see if your scheme would be a less painful alternative.
Thanks for the info! :icon_thumright:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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When my mom bought her one year old '65 Skylark in '66, I can remember her saying "OOH!!! It has air conditioning" with a Sears unit hanging under the dash. It would freeze you out. I thinks its perfectly acceptable if you need it. If the car HAD a.c originally, I'd repair that if possible. To retrofit an OEM unit would mean a lot of changes to the firewall, controls, and just about everything under the dash. Its not a simple weekend job. I know a guy with a wagon that cut the holes for the vents and he had a dickens of a time. Just sayin'.... Bill
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Hi David, The Buick looks great !!! You do very nice work.. Can you post the the front & rear tire size I want the same look on my 65 GS project once it is completed, this summer hopefully...
Tony
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I went with that unit, as a result of its size and cooling capacity.
To be honest, I really couldn't find a unit I was completely happy with....
I wanted the one, you could get in the sixties. That cool, under dash, dealer installed unit, with some style.
This one, certainly will cool the vehicle down!!
The rear wheels are 15x8, with a 5" back space. (special order, at Wheel Vintiques) Tires 255/60R15
The front wheels are, off the shelf, 14x7. Tires 235/60r14
Thank you all!!
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Dear David and mid-60s Buick owners who want to be cool! :occasion14:
I went with that unit, as a result of its size and cooling capacity.
This one, certainly will cool the vehicle down!!
That's good to hear! When I thought of using an underdash evaporator, I couldn't figure out how to mount the gauges. I like the way you put the evaporator down low and mounted the gauges further up. That's a simple but still very elegant solution.
To be honest, I really couldn't find a unit I was completely happy with....
I wanted the one, you could get in the sixties. That cool, under dash, dealer installed unit, with some style.
I share you frustrations on this one. The only reproduction of a 1960s unit I know about is the one from Vintage Air.
https://www.vintageair.com/search-results/?sqry=672001-VHY (https://www.vintageair.com/search-results/?sqry=672001-VHY)
It doesn't look bad, but is large and bulky. I don't think you mount gauges as you did with this model. So thanks for the pointer!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14: