65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => GS Questions => Topic started by: GreatScat1965 on March 17, 2018, 09:31:31 AM
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Hello all, The end of last summer my left turn signals went dead. Dash indicator doesn't come on as well. I dusted of a few old books and it appears to be the switch itself. It had been acting up for maybe 2 summers prior. That said, where can I get a switch? I'm assuming someone makes the switch. It should be common to other GM cars. I figured I'd ask here first before I asked "The Google" :dontknow:
Thanks,
Jerry
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I just ordered one for mine.
There are some differences in the switches used. Some are in the area of where they bolt into the cup.
Manual, automatic and manual on the colum as well as tilt columns, all matter.
Some of the differences are easy to see, and some are the mounting orientation with the three bolt holes in the cup on the column.
If you send me a pick of the switch sitting in the cup, I can help you pretty quick.
(I have a 1964 Skylark was ST300 column, and I replaced the steering mast with a manual 1965 GS and the switches are different)
Mine takes this one. (1965 GS)
http://restorationpartssource.com/store/turn-signal-switch-1964-66-chevelle-without-tilt-stamped-guide-pnt-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Oa45prj2QIVxmV-Ch0HPw9oEAkYASABEgLU8PD_BwE (http://restorationpartssource.com/store/turn-signal-switch-1964-66-chevelle-without-tilt-stamped-guide-pnt-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Oa45prj2QIVxmV-Ch0HPw9oEAkYASABEgLU8PD_BwE)
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The turn signal switch is located in the steering column cup behind the steering wheel. Have always bought mine from Lectric Limited. Here’s a link to their site.
https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehiclesearch/result/index/year/102/make/23/model/54?cat=755 (https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehiclesearch/result/index/year/102/make/23/model/54?cat=755)
They sell made in Taiwan or made in USA switches. Hope this helps,
Dan
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I just ordered one for mine.
There are some differences in the switches used. Some are in the area of where they bolt into the cup.
Manual, automatic and manual on the colum as well as tilt columns, all matter.
Some of the differences are easy to see, and some are the mounting orientation with the three bolt holes in the cup on the column.
If you send me a pick of the switch sitting in the cup, I can help you pretty quick.
(I have a 1964 Skylark was ST300 column, and I replaced the steering mast with a manual 1965 GS and the switches are different)
Mine takes this one. (1965 GS)
[url]http://restorationpartssource.com/store/turn-signal-switch-1964-66-chevelle-without-tilt-stamped-guide-pnt-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Oa45prj2QIVxmV-Ch0HPw9oEAkYASABEgLU8PD_BwE[/url] ([url]http://restorationpartssource.com/store/turn-signal-switch-1964-66-chevelle-without-tilt-stamped-guide-pnt-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Oa45prj2QIVxmV-Ch0HPw9oEAkYASABEgLU8PD_BwE[/url])
Thanks, i guess I'll need to pull the wheel off this weekend. Thanks for your help.
Jerry
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If you don't have a puller, several auto parts stores have them as loaners.
Use a sharpie to index the wheel boss and shaft end before pulling. Most have an index mark, but a large mark makes it easy to see.
I have seen people pull them without a puller, but save you energy for fighting battles with big spoils.
Steps.
1. Remove the horn bar. Carefully as the horn wires are attached to the brass plunger contact to ground the horn.
2. Remove the two nuts and strap under the dash that hold the mast in place
3. Remove the turn signal lever.
4. Remove the screws that hold the switch in the cup, and then rotate the cup to get it past the small lugs and puill it toward you about an inch.
5. Look under the dash at the bottom of the mast and you will see the harness cover.
6. Remove the clip from the end near the pedals and then the harness cover should drop out.
7. Disconnect the lower end of the harness and now you should be able to remove the switch.
Reverse to put it back together, but make sure you use bearing grease and grease the bearing.
I use "Red and Tacky", as it stays in the bearing and the turning action helps the grease "stir itself" and keeps things lubed.
I also use a little di-electric grease in the switch area and the sliding plastic parts to keep them lubed.
Hope that helps. (and that I did not leave anything out...)
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Sounds pretty complete. After I get the 3rd member back in the rear I'll let it down and give it a shop. I'll attempt to post a photo of what I have so perhaps you can tell me which Switch I need.
Thanks,
Jerry
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In a straight column, there are two different switch brands used. One is marked Guide, the other is BPC. They do not interchange.
The good thing is that they are used over all the GM line.
Loren
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Update... I pulled the steering wheel this afternoon in anticipation of photographing the turn signal switch and pulling it out. The switch looked to be original with 50 years of dust and 'gunk' on it. I didn't think it unusual for the switch to be original, the car still has it's original T3's up front in working order.. Anyway, I couldn't see any mechanical malfunction so the cheap tinker in me came out. i cleaned the switch with contact cleaner (AKA brake clean), blew it out thoroughly with compressed air and presto. One working turn signal switch. I took it out for a drive and it seems to work fine. I'm sure it may not be a permanent fix but it will hopefully get me through this season. :rocker:
Jerry
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Super!
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Dear Jerry, Michael, and mid-60s Buick "faithful,"
Update... I pulled the steering wheel this afternoon in anticipation of photographing the turn signal switch and pulling it out. The switch looked to be original with 50 years of dust and 'gunk' on it. I didn't think it unusual for the switch to be original, the car still has it's original T3's up front in working order.. Anyway, I couldn't see any mechanical malfunction so the cheap tinker in me came out. i cleaned the switch with contact cleaner (AKA brake clean), blew it out thoroughly with compressed air and presto. One working turn signal switch.
Congratulations! :hello2: After all, if it isn't really broken - don't fix it! :laughing7:
I took it out for a drive and it seems to work fine. I'm sure it may not be a permanent fix but it will hopefully get me through this season. :rocker:
Oh ye' of little faith! . . . . . If the mechanism isn't showing any signs of wear, it could be fine for at least a few years. If the action seems solid, it could have been simply dirty - not worn out. Keep da' faith man! . . . . :angel4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Good job, Jerry. Sometimes the old parts work better than the new ones available today. They just need some TLC!
Chuck