65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
Classifieds => Parts For Sale => Topic started by: Brian on March 30, 2015, 08:16:42 AM
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Posting this for sale on this board first for a few weeks to give the dedicated 65GS crowd first shot at it.
Complete setup to convert a 65 GS from an automatic to a 4-speed manual with 3.36 posi rear end. Original pieces have all been beadblasted, rebuilt, and painted the correct colors. Other parts are either new or like new. Every piece is ready to install. Includes the following:
-close ratio, high-nickel gear set T10 4-speed with all new bearings, blocking rings, keys, springs, torque-lock sliders, backup light switch assembly, shifter and re-chromed handle with black shifter knob.
-brake and clutch pedal assembly with new pedal pads
-all clutch linkage with pins/clips and the upper z-bar bracket that welds to the frame
-lower z-bar bracket and self tapping bolts to attach to frame
-shifter boot and trim ring with screws
-lower z-bar accordian boot
-sheet metal hump for the floor
-bellhousing with cross shaft, clutch fork, external arm, ball, and bolts to mount to engine block
-bellhousing dust shield with screws
-driveshaft with transmission yoke. Freshly balanced using factory style weight and with new spicer u-joints.
-set of used 65GS 3.36 gears with ring gear bolts
-Auburn posi differential for 3.36 and up gears. Was installed in a rear, but was removed and never run. Includes a bottle of the Auburn limited-slip additive that came with it.
-Centerforce I Gold clutch with 2000 miles on it. Was in my show car and just driven to shows and on/off the trailer. Includes pressure plate bolts for mounting
-new billet steel flywheel from TA performance with flywheel to crankshaft bolts
-clutch release bearing and collar
-pilot bushing for crankshaft
-steering column firewall plate with hole for clutch push rod
-boot and retainer for clutch push rod through firewall plate
-rubber bumper for clutch pedal stop
Only thing additional I can think of you would need to buy is some 80W-90 GL-4 gear oil for the transmission, and some setup shims for the rear end gears. This setup will also work in a 66, but the shifter is not exactly correct for a 66 since the 66 shifter mounted on the crossmember insead of the transmission tail housing. I have been collecting the parts for this setup for over 15 years and anyone that is familiar with the 65 GS knows how hard these items are to find. You can?t find the parts and rebuild them for this price--$3500. Can deliver to the Charlotte Autofair, or the 2015 BCA national meet in Springfield, IL. I am located in NC, 1 hour north of Charlotte. JMOS on this board drives from here to MI about once a month, so you may be able to arrange delivery with him along that route for a small fee.
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More pictures:
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More pictures #2
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More pictures #3
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More pictures #4
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More pictures #5
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I should also add that a turn-key installation of this setup can be arranged as well for an additional fee. I have worked on many 4-speed 65's and converted several to 4-speed, so very familiar with these cars and what is required. You just have to get the car to my place in Mocksville, NC.
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I want it all, would you consider shipping it?
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"How much for de little girl?" Sorry, had to throw that in there. :overthetop:
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Dang this setup is like finding a needle in a haystack or a unicorn. So jealous. Wish I had the money. Goodluck with sale. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Sold to SJFD04. Looks like it is getting ready to make a cross country trip to CA.
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Brian.. curious. Where do you buy that steel floor hump? and what body is it for? Chevelle? Olds?
ThanQ for sharing.
Wheelz, Tampa Bay
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Buy it for a Chevelle, with a console. You can get them from any of the Chevelle reproduction suppliers, and I have even bought them on Ebay.
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I assume 65-67 Chevelle?
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64-67 Chevelle
WITHOUT WITH console. (thanks for the correction Brian!) To clarify:..... it is the 'low' hump one.
http://www.ss396.com/category/chevelle-shifterhumps.html (http://www.ss396.com/category/chevelle-shifterhumps.html)
The boot retaining rings are correct for GS too.
http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/IT-1311.html (http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/IT-1311.html)
Finally, the LOWER shifter boot is correct for UNDER the consollette. Boot for the consolette itself is presently NA for the round shifter handles.
http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/IE-384.html (http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/IE-384.html)
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I am going to have to disagree with Walt's last post. The hump from a Chevelle that is correct for a GS is the hump WITH a console. The one to the far right in his link--part number RST-76D is the correct one. The one in the link is not specified as with or without console, but every other site/catalog I have seen it in before lists it as the one for a car "with console". If you order one for a car WITHOUT console, they will send you part number RST-76A. Made that mistake before and had to send it back.
Here is one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-66-67-Chevelle-El-Camino-4-Speed-Hump-Panel-WC-/371428598426?hash=item567adea29a&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-66-67-Chevelle-El-Camino-4-Speed-Hump-Panel-WC-/371428598426?hash=item567adea29a&vxp=mtr)
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Thanks for the correction Brian. While i did mean the 'low' hump, I called it by the incorrect name.
The Skylark GS used the low hump in both no-console and consolette equipped 3 and 4 speed cars.
Chevelles used the higher hump only in their non-console cars.
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This looks like a timely discussion for me. My 4 speed restoration was converted from automatic to 4 speed during it's first restoration. When I took it apart, I found no hump added on the tunnel, just a hole in the floor with the boot screwed to the tunnel and the consolette over top. I assume this is incorrect and I also need to pick up a hump, correct? See attached pictures from disassembly.
Thanks,
Chuck
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Yes, The GS had the hump spot welded to the floor. The Chevelle repo is correct for our GS's, as is the 'under console' boot and retaining ring.
For GS's without a consolette, a different shifter boot was used....it's not being repo'd.
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☕️
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Any chance we can archive or flag Brian's initial post of this thread -- to use as a reference guide?
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Does anyone have a picture of the finished product? Proper 4-speed shifter and boot with Consolette installed over top? With and without the top boot, if there is one, please.
Thanks,
Chuck
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Here are some with it complete. Note that the tach housing barely clears the bottom of the AC duct under the dash. You have to remove the console before you can remove the AC duct. Makes the dash a real pain to work on. For example, say you need to change the blower motor switch in the heater controls. Remove the shifter handle and consolette to get the AC duct out, to get the glove box out to get to the nuts on the back of the dash pad to get it out so you can remove the plastic surround from the instrument panel to get to the screws for the bezel around the heater controls so you can remove the heater controls to access the switch.
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Thanks Brian. Am I correct that this is with the lower boot only and no boot installed in or on the consolette? That's what it looks like to me. And was there a second boot in the consolette originally? From what I've read there was, but no one repops them.
Second question. If installing a consolette on a non-manual trans tunnel, it's best to locate the mounting holes after the shifter and boot are installed, right? My consolette was mounted, but there was no shifter porch installed, so I'm thinking the location might be different after installation with the porch.
Chuck
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Both of those pictures are with the upper and lower boot installed. You can't see the lower boot once the consolette is installed. The boot you see in the pictures is the upper boot. I am not really clear on your question and what parts you are talking about?
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Sorry I wasn't clear with my questions. I was reading through an older thread about the two boots used with the consolette and thought I read that the lower boot is available as a repop, but the upper boot that is used with the consolette is not. I guess I envisioned the lower boot just sticking up through the hole in the consolette with no upper boot installed, since that boot isn't available. But you have both boots installed, so you've educated me! So, how/where does the upper boot mount to the consolette? My car did not have the upper boot.
My other question was related to whether I need to fill holes in the tunnel where the consolette base was mounted. This was originally an automatic trans car with the 4-speed and consolette swapped in later. However, the swap did not include installation of the shifter porch (hump). So, I'm thinking that I should just fill the existing holes for the consolette base in the tunnel and refit and drill it after the shifter hump is installed. This is really unrelated to the question about the boots. Sorry for the confusion. Probably too much of me thinking out loud! :BangHead:
I'll go back and reread the thread about the boots to better understand.
Thanks again,
Chuck
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Chuck,
Here's a pictures of the lower boot mounted and the lower half of the consolette in place. Both boots are reproduced, however, the upper boot is incorrect for our cars. Too shiny, but more importantly, the shifter hole is for a Hurst style shift lever. The upper boot is retained by upper and lower retainer plates. Top one is chrome plated and bottom is stamped black metal. These are not reproduced. Boot and retainers go over three tabs on the underside of the top half of the consolette.
In the second picture the upper retainer is not on. Hope this helps,
Dan
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Thanks Dan. I think I've got it now! :thumbsup:
Chuck
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Chuck,
Take notice of how the carpet is folded back and screwed to the inside edge of the consolette on the drivers side. There are two holes cast into the lower part of the consolette for the screws. That is to hide the lower boot from view up under the edge of the console.
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Great tip. Thanks Brian!
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The upper boot is retained by upper and lower retainer plates. Top one is chrome plated and bottom is stamped black metal. These are not reproduced. Boot and retainers go over three tabs on the underside of the top half of the consolette.
Dan
Looks like I don't have either of the retaining plates for the upper boot. And my tabs (are they like pegs?) appear to be broken off.
I have the lower boot and it appears to be in reasonably good shape. But I don't have the stamped metal retainer for it. I'm sure I can find one of those. Might have to consider just using the lower boot only, as came with the car, since I don't have the required retaining rings to use the incorrect upper boot with the consolette. I could also eliminate the consolette. I don't have to make that decision now, but a plan would be good...... :dontknow:
There I go thinking out loud again :BangHead:
Thanks,
Chuck
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Chuck,
None of those issues is unusual. The consolette is pot metal and the tabs break off fairly easily. There are ways to repair them but do not drill holes from the top for machine screws. Had one like that and they are almost impossible to make cosmetically nice. The retainers are difficult to find but do come up on eBay every so often. Just another thing to look for. Other than those issues its a nice looking consolette.
I have a lower boot you can have and the retaining ring for it is reproduced.
Dan
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Thanks Dan. I'll keep my eyes open for the retaining rings. It's helpful to know that they become available. And that the lower boot retaining rings are reproduced; I'm sure I'll find one.
:cheers2:
Chuck