65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => Q & A => Topic started by: Polishmeatballpizza on September 09, 2016, 02:37:39 PM
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How involved is this? I viewed some Youtube videos and it looks like it's not THAT hard, but I am wondering what I really need to consider before taking on something like this. I have the motor and transmission removed; next, I would remove the front fenders and gas tank; then the steering box.
If I get to this point, would it be just a matter of locating all the mounting points, removing the bolts/bushings and raising the body? I saw how most vehicles were in the wheel-dollies, and they slid the frame out sideways. Then, the body is supported by jack stands and 4x4s. I would not have much choice in rolling the frame out towards the back, just don't have enough room to go sideways. Probably have to jockey around with the body supports until I could roll it out all the way, or lift it high enough that it clears.
Could the body be un-bolted while the car is on jack-stands? Then, after the body is up and out of the way, I could remove the jackstands and just roll out the frame?
What do you guys think?
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Also, is this the mount for the rear body where it mounts in the trunk section?
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/C241477/ (https://www.opgi.com/skylark/C241477/)
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Also, is this the mount for the rear body where it mounts in the trunk section?
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/C241477/ (https://www.opgi.com/skylark/C241477/)
You likely need the whole piece:
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/sheet-metal-body-panels/body-trunk-braces/PAN202/ (https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1965/sheet-metal-body-panels/body-trunk-braces/PAN202/)
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How involved is this? I viewed some Youtube videos and it looks like it's not THAT hard, but I am wondering what I really need to consider before taking on something like this. I have the motor and transmission removed; next, I would remove the front fenders and gas tank; then the steering box.
If I get to this point, would it be just a matter of locating all the mounting points, removing the bolts/bushings and raising the body? I saw how most vehicles were in the wheel-dollies, and they slid the frame out sideways. Then, the body is supported by jack stands and 4x4s. I would not have much choice in rolling the frame out towards the back, just don't have enough room to go sideways. Probably have to jockey around with the body supports until I could roll it out all the way, or lift it high enough that it clears.
Could the body be un-bolted while the car is on jack-stands? Then, after the body is up and out of the way, I could remove the jackstands and just roll out the frame?
What do you guys think?
George,
I have done it as have several others on the board. Although the body is back on the frame now and I continue slowly to progress I find myself on occasion questioning if the body really needed to come off and always end up agreeing with myself that I did the correct thing in order to make the needed repairs. You should make sure you really need to remove the body. It is a big commitment.
I jacked up under the trunk and supported with wood timbers and then lifted the front with the hoist and again supported with wood. Just rolled frame out from there. Worked for me but there are other ways to get it done.
Dwaine
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...... questioning if the body really needed to come of...... You should make sure you really need to remove the body. It is a big commitment.
Dwaine
I think that sums it up well!
It's a lot more work, more expense, and LOTS more time!!
There are alternatives.
You can do a decent restoration by only stripping down the front frame from firewall forward. Sand blast that frame section and all suspension parts, paint and reassemble. When it's done, you pop the hood open and all can look like a frame-off resto....The rest of the frame and underbody is only really visible if you get down on the ground and look.
Or consider lifting the body off the frame but use a stack of 4x4 timbers to space the body up about 12". Holes thru the timbers will allow body to be secured to frame with lengths of threaded rod into the body mount holes. This will give you more access to the underside of the body with the benefit of being able to store and more the body/frame in a 1 car garage. Will also give you more access to most of the frame if you want to paint/detail it.
I'm sure I have some pics on file to show what I'm talking about.
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Yeah, I'm beginning to see how hard it would be. I'm having a hard time finding someone to sandblast or even pressure-wash the front of the car.
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Yes, if you have to find/pay someone to do the work it gets expensive.
But so does buying the equipment and doing it yourself.
You might be able to rent or borrow stuff.
Here's and example of a 'firewall-forward' resto.
I didn't want a full blown resto on this one, mostly wanted to rebuild the engine and suspension so I could get it back on the road.
But I did end up detailing everything I took off except for the front fender that were in good shape.
- Strip front end
- Sandblast frame horns, suspension parts, underhood sheetmetal parts.
- Firewall was wet sanded smooth with either sandpaper or scotch brite.
- Primed and painted with epoxy or urethane paint.
Major equipment needed: Air compressor, pressure sandblast unit, paint gun.
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Body up on 4x4's....
I did eventually remove body from frame to do a complete resto (still not done after 12 years!!)
Body was raised up so I could sandblast and paint the underside of body. Was also able to move car in and out of garage.
It's VERY important to be sure it's stable. That's why there are cross braces and there are threaded rods going thru the blocks to hold body and frame together.
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At this point in your resto I'd recommend you concentrate on one thing at a time until it's completed.
It's too easy to take a car completely apart and end up with a huge mess!!
Only take apart what you are going to fix. Finish it, then move on to something else.
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I think one of my neighbors would say something if I pressure washed the front end in the driveway. Damn associations.