65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
Projects & Restorations => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: Weldar on November 03, 2010, 09:54:31 PM
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Well I've been tearing down for a couple of months now. Not in a hurry and don't have a lot of time in the evening and the twin boys keep me hopping on the weekends. Anyway, removed the pass side fender tonight and found the build sheet glued on just above the vent port. It is in rough shape but I can make out some info.
Have lots of pics and will start posting some as I'm to the point of needing some advise on how to proceed. Really did not think I needed to go this far but I can see now to do it right I'll need to be "all in".
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Alright. Remember I said it was rough. Tried different light positions as well. There a few other scrap pieces that have letters showing but I did not take pics. Really want to save this but not sure of best way. Any suggestions?
First two pics show the location: Pass side fender just above GS vent trim (Can't remember the name of this piece!). One pic shows the build sheet "as found" (I thought it was a wasp nest at first). The other one shows the glue residue after the it was removed.
Next three are close up pics in one light condition.
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Close up pics in second light condition.
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Best thing to do is find someone with a scanner and scan a high-resolution .jpg or .pdf of it. The best way to preserve the original is to laminate it after you scan it.
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enclosed is a copy of the build sheet in my conv. back in 1971. you will see it is for a yellow ht. never did find the one for my conv. thankfully i did get a copy of the shipping invoice from Flint to my dealer here in Pa.
Al
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Scanned image. Pics posted last night are better. Will laminate and keep in the car.
Appreciate comments as to the number sequencing and associated typed identifiers i.e. 46(?), 45(J), 44(3), 43(7), 42(2).....62(?), 61(1), 60(A), 59(?), 58(J).....
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Thought I'd start posting a few pics as I go.
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welder
I found a partial build sheet when i pulled up the tar insulation/ padding under the carpet. It was located around the shifter hole on the floor.
hope this helps
Al
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What is the large bracket with the idler pulleys on the passenger side of the engine--did the car have an under-dash AC unit on it at some point in it's past?
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Brian,
That's what it looks like to me. By the way, "Welder", very nice car, looks like a great one to restore.
Please post your name......... and keep the pictures coming!
Mark
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Brian - Correct. I bought this car for $400 back in 1976 and drove it through high school (my mother still says she would have not let me buy it if she would have known how much power it had). It had a huge honkin' evaporator in the trunk with blowers cut into the package tray. Being 1976 and 16 yrs old I needed an 8 track and speakers more then AC. So out came the evap and blowers, don't know what ever happened to them.
Fast forward - removed the compressor, condenser unit (which was bolted to the front of the radiator), hoses, wiring (which was a mess under the dash) and all that is left is that bracket. Whoever put it in did a good job cosmetically but it was a crap install as I found out during tear down.
Dwaine
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Mark - Well, you know how pics are. Car has some issues to work through but I'm sure it will be OK eventually. Wish it would not have sat outside for the last 15 years.
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Starting to think about how to lift the body off. Don't have a lot of equipment at this point but will get whatever is needed. Question for those that have done this before - What is the estimated weight of the body less fenders, hood, deck lid, doors and glass? I'm guessing 1200 lb. Have beefy rafters in the garage and I'm thinking with some additional bracing these could be used. Thanks in advance.
Dwaine
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Dwaine,
I have no idea how heavy the body is. Loren Alexander and I pulled the body off mine with everything intact less the front sheetmetal.
All interior, glass, doors, decklid, etc. was together. We raised the body up with floor jacks, and dropped the frame down.
We raised the rear up of body up, and while dropping the frame down, slid 4x4's under the back and set the 4x4's on concrete blocks.
Then raised the front up under the a-pillars, and slid 4x4's under the cowl resting on concrete blocks.
I'm oversimplifying, but that was the basic process. I think the whole job, from taking out the e-brake stuff, gas tank, body mounts, etc. took less than 2 hours. But Loren knows what he's doing.......
Mark
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Dwaine,
I agree with Mark. It's safer and easier to use the "floor jack and 4X4 method" rather than stringing it up using your garage rafters. I used a 2" x 6" x 4' board on top of my floor jack to spread out the weight and not damage the truck pan or floor boards. I lifted the back up about eight inches or so, then moved to the front and raised it about eight inches slipping the 4" x 4" in between the body and frame. Then I went back to the truck a lifted it again another 8" or so, then moved back to the front. Repeating the procedure until it was higher enough to roll the frame out. Once it was now high enough utilize concrete blocks to support the 4" x 4". I also made a "extention" to the floor jack using 6" x 6" wood blocks to increase it's reach to get the body high enough. I removed the rear tires and rested the rear wheel hubs on wheel dollies. This lowered the frame far enough to roll the frame forward and out from under the body. By having the car up on blocks, I was then able to work on cleaning and painting the under carriage. It was surprisingly easy to reverse the process to get the frame back under after I restoring it. Work slowly and safely so as not to damage the body or yourself. One very important step to take regardless of how you remove the body from the frame, take measurements. You want to get it back on square and in the same position. If it is cockeyed, the front clip/fenders/hood will not line up square.
Good luck,
JohnEgel
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Dwaine and Brian,
Here's the build sheet that I also found between the inner and outer fender on the passenger's side. It was a Kansas City built car. I photo copied the original and then high lighted the codes in red ink on that copy. I could not make out all the codes as it was quite deteriorated. I laminated the original.
John Egel
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I did mine in a similar fashion, but with a couple of key differences that made it alot easier.
1. Remove the front fenders, hood, and inner fenders
2. Jack the whole car up as high as you can with the tallest jackstands you can get
3. Take a portable engine hoist (cherry picker as some call it) and using two straps with hooks on each end, lift the front of the body up off the frame by hooking the two straps to the hook on the hoist, then run one to one of the rectangular holes at the bottom of the firewall where the body mount bolts go in, and the other to the opposite side. Just put the hooks in the rectangular hole--it is thicker metal than the rest of the firewall and will support the weight of the body with no problem.
4. Once in the air, fashing a 4x4 to fit under the front mount points of the body and make it long enough to hang out each side of the body at least 12". I had to do some carving on my 4x4 with the chain saw to make some relief on one side to clear the drivers foot well.
5. Go to the back with the engine hoist and lift it up with the two straps using the braces at each rear corner inside the truck that support the rear panel (the braces that have the little piece on top that the rubber bump stops on the bottom of the trunk lid hit on when you close the trunk lid).
6. Use another4x4 the same length as the front one and build a structure on top of it using some 2x4s that will rearch up to the rear body mounts where you can bolt it to the body mount points. Have to do that so the 4x4 will clear under the lower rear quarter panels. You can then build a structure around the two 4x4s to hold the body up . Once supported, you can then lower the frame to the ground with your floor jack and roll it out from under the car.
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Brian,
I forgot to mention that I also notched the front 4x4 to fit securely. I also forgot that I had to nail wood blocks to the rear 4x4 under the body mounts to clear the rear quarter sheet metal. All in all, it was quite a simple process once you think it through and take your time. Hope this helps, Dwaine.
John Egel
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Thanks to all for the feedback.
John - My car is also Kansas City built but my Build Sheet is certainly not as legible. Any idea about the number codes with typed letter identifiers?
Dwaine
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Dwaine,
I have no idea what they mean. Perehaps Jon T. or Brian might have a clue.
John Egel
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We have lift off in Wyoming! Had several days off but spent to much time eating and watching football - By the way Go Huskers!, and finally got to it this afternoon. Broke my left little finger dinkin around with the floor jack last Wed. so that kinda slowed my down as well. Took diagonal reference measurements between the body and frame in the front to aid in reassembly.
Went fairly well, but had to grind off both body bolts that are close to the rear wheels. Will work on getting it blocked up after I finish helping the wife with the Christmas tree.
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Dwaine,
Looks like you're making good progress. I forgot to mention that the body to frame bushings are not all the same. Keep track of which ones are different and which ones have a shorter bolt.
John Egel
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The frame is rolled out and in the other garage stall. It was not a pretty exercise and I will definitely invest in tire skates when putting it back under. Also, got to looking at the gas tank a little closer and found a bunch of pin holes so....
Well, have some business travel coming up and then Christmas so everyone have a very merry Christmas and don't forget the reason for the season.
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Removed the engine from the frame, bolted into a stand and have it down to the crankshaft. Don't see anything major but don't have the mics to look closer. Will leave that to the shop.
Have several areas of heavy silver build up (on top of heads in the back and in areas above the camshaft) kinda like a real thick anti-seize. Machine shop says that it is tetra ethyl lead build up and I should keep it off my hands - I have since they told me. Anybody ever here of this before? Also had the exhaust crossover burn through and looks like the motor was intaking an unhealthy dose of exhaust.
Kinda thought the serial number code next to the LR stamp would match the vin or cowl tag in some manner. Is it supposed to?
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That number will not match the VIN, but it you look to the right of it (driver side of block) on that same front machined edge, there will be a number that matches the last portion of the VIN. Should start with 5, then have a letter denoting the mfg. plant, then a series of numbers that are the sequence number part of the VIN.
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It's good to see someone making progress on a project.
Brian is correct about the vin #. As he stated, it is directly across from what you have pictured,on the driver side of the block.
Keep up the progress and don't forget to include us. I'm fairly certain that many of us enjoy the updates.
Loren
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I definitely enjoy the updates. Keep them coming!
Mark
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Thanks for the encouragement. The hard money part of the work is coming soon.
The only other markings on this surface are what can be made out faintly just to the right. Can kinda, sorta make out a 5 but nothing else is there. There are random, individual numbers stamped into the valve lifter cover sealing along each side. 7,5,7,8,6 but these don't match anything on the vin. Probably not a big deal and maybe when the block gets cleaned up better I'll see something else.
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At least the 'LR' engine code is correct for a GS.
The '448' stamped next to it is the production code. The best definition I've heard, is that it is the shift number on which the engine was built. A '001 would be the first shift of the first day of production of the '65 model year... around August 1964.
With 2 shifts per day, a '448' was made approx 224 days into the production year......roughly March 1965.
When was your car built? The date code is in the upper left of the cowl tag.
BTW, I'm fairly certain it was the ROA pres that posted what the production # means.
If you have the warranty booklet/ protecto plate for the car, that engine # would be stamped on it as well.
You could also look for date codes on the various engine castings.
I enjoy your update as well. Keep 'em coming! :thumbsup:
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Walt, Thanks. The Protect-o-Plate matches the block number. The date code is 04D, but have not researched what this means. What is "ROA pres"
Well, one of the reasons I love western Wyoming is the fact that there are not many people (not to mention the winter elk herd in the canyon I live in), the flip side is there are no machine shops that have worked on a nailhead in close proximity or for that matter any that I'm at all familiar with. So, I've loaded up the block, heads, crank, etc and we are off to SW Nebraska to visit my parents in the morning. Will deliver the motor to the local, reputable machine shop while there. A little apprehensive about it because of various posts here and elsewhere cautioning about not using a machine shop unless they have extensive nailhead experience. Being a practical man I have to play the hand I'm dealt, so....wish me luck. I have been doing my research on the various considerations and have shared my concern with the owner and I believe it will be OK. I'll post some pics of the drop off (kinda feel like one of my kids is leaving the house for the first time and no longer under my control).
One question I have is whether the flex plate is unique to the motor or can any replacement be used? The gear teeth are worn significantly in a few spots which may be OK anyway. Understand that it needs to be correctly installed to ensure proper balance but is there more to it then that?
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Dwaine,
04D is the 4th week of April. "ROA pres" is Riviera Owners Assoc. president.
There's lots of info online that you can put together for the machine shop, so they have a good idea
of what to look for when going through the nailhead rebuild.
I believe the flexplates are specific. You might try a place like Bendtsens for a lead.
http://www.transmissionadapters.com/
Mark
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Flexplates....
1) The 65-66 Skylark GS uses a smaller diameter converter that also has different bolt locations. The 65-66 flexplates have a total of 6 holes to mount the 2 different converters, instead of just 3 holes on the 64 models.
2) The repo flexplate from Bendtsens doesn't look properly balanced to me. Their eBay page states they ARE balanced, so you best call them to confirm.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick-nailhead-flexplate-64-66-401-425-w-400-trans-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c5832e076QQitemZ190458290294QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Here's a pic of a stock 64 plate next to the repo. That huge chunk of steel on the stock one is for balancing! Also note the 3 hole vs 6 hole converter mounting holes.
On the engine rebuild, the first thing I would caution about is to NOT install hardened vale seats in the heads. The heads are very thin in that area, and installing new seats will often break into a water passage and ruin the head.
Here are a couple of online articles, enjoy!
http://www.webrodder.com/index.php?page=showStories&pageNum=0&CID=&search=nailhead
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/81904/nailing_down_the_buick_nailhead.aspx
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Walt - Thanks. Have already read through those links and printed the one off referencing Centerville Automotive and gave to the Machine shop owner. This may be obvious but what is the flexplate balancing against?
Have posted a coupe of pics of the motor at the shop (Wells Engine & Machine) this morning. So far looks like the cylinders are 0.012" over and the crank looks in good shape, so I guess a good start.
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This may be obvious but what is the flexplate balancing against?
The Nailhead is externally balanced. What that means is both the flexplate on the rear, and the harmonic balancer on the front are weight-offset and add to the counterweights on the crankshaft.
An engine that is internally balanced would have all the required weight in the crankshaft.
That counterweight or offset balance is needed to offset the weight of the rods/pistons.
Tom once posted the Nailhead flywheel/flexplates have 4.5 ounces of offset weight..... that explains the extra metal you see on the stock flexplate.
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Walt,
Got it. Thanks. For some reason I kept thinking that each flexplate was unique to the motor and if a new one was needed it would need some voodoo magic to get it balanced. Thanks again.
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You'll often see a few holes drilled into a flexplate to fine tune the balance.
There is even a procedure in the shop manual to correct engine vibration by adding clip weights to the flexplate.
So even if a replacement is a bit off, it can be corrected
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Update: The machinist found a hairline crack in the block near the starter ring. Going to use the Lock'N'Stitch repair method. Have done some research and this seems to be the best option for repair.
The frame stripped and moved outside until spring. Real axle marking is (I think) A 19 or A 49. Also have the "O" with an "X" stamped in it. Does not match the rear axle ID table in the Chassis Manual but still assume it is a 3.08 ratio.
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The circle with the 'x' denotes posi-traction :thumbsup:
My 65 has an 'E' stamp which isn't in the manual either. But it is a 3.36 ratio.
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Been a while since I've checked in. Made it down to Nebraska this week and stopped into the machine shop to visit. Spring rush is on and thus not a lot of progress on the 401. Did take a look at the crack which indeed was very hard to see and would have to be magnafluxed to really see it. I'm comfortable that the lock and stitch process will work. I'll be back in July and hopefully the motor will be completed by then. Dropped the seats off with a local shop to install new foam and covers. Will be using rear bottom springs from my Skylark donor. I could probably tackle the seats but time is hard to find. Will probably need some recommendations on re-chrome shops at some point. Hopefully winter is done in Wyoming and I can start work on the frame.
As a side note I added a pic of the elk herd that has been hanging around the house for the last month or so.
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Wow! Where in Wyoming do you live?
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Brian - I live about 5 miles outside of a little town called LaBarge. Very quiet, a lot of winter (i.e. long) and wildlife, but hard to work on a car sometimes (the closest NAPA is 20 miles away). We had a ton of snow in the high country this winter which drives the elk down lower then usual. Always get hundreds of mule deer as well.
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So what does one do to make a living when you are out that far? I just looked at where you are on mapquest, and you are definitely out there!
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I am a mechanical engineer for an Evil multinational oil and gas company. Work at a natural gas treating facility but travel quite a bit.
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Wow what a great way to show that evil oil company how wrong they are !! Than by restoring that gas guzuling nailhead Keep up the great work. Maybe go for the two four's option!! :thumbsup: Glenn!
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Welder--I am also a mechanical engineer and I develop products that are used in your industry. I work at Doosan Portable Power (used to be Ingersoll Rand) and I design the large, high pressure diesel powered air compressors that the oil and gas industry uses for drilling. They are built here in the plant where I work in Statesville, NC. Working on a new machine now that has the new Tier 4i emissions level engine in it.
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Brian - Interesting. I really am a Jack Of All Trades (Civil, Structural, Electrical, Process). I spend a lot of time working fixed equipment issues i. e. pressure vessels and mentoring the young engineers in our group.
Glen - 2 x 4 would be nice but will settle for the tame 1 x 4. Will most definitely try to keep the oil company in business after I get this baby running.
Dropped the transmission off yesterday for a tear down and reseal. Don't remember there really being any issues when I parked her back in '86. The shop has an old timer that was kinda oohing and aahing over the ST 300 that he has not seen in a long time.
Dwaine
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Welder optionb9 had a st300 on here he wanted to give away about a week or so ago. he might still have it. Glenn.
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Some good news today. The machine shop successfully repaired the crack (dye pen and pressure tested) using the Lock-n-Stitch method. The nature of the crack resulted in a patch being installed instead of a straight line repair. Wall thickness in the area of the crack was well below the recommended minimum, so we decided on a patch in order to catch some wall thickness. Anyway, it is what it is. Now he can actually get to the real machine work.
Also threw in a pic of the transmission after getting it back from the soft goods rebuild. Trans is at my dads shop in Nebraska and I've not actually seen it. Also have a rebuilt torque converter but not being that familiar with this I'm wondering if it is possible for it to not be a switch pitch? Anyway to confirm this?
New air compressor showed up today so I'm about ready to start blasting the frame. Not set up to paint with a gun and was considering using Bill Hirsh Black Miracle Paint applied with a foam brush which is their recommended procedure. Think that will work????
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There's a torque converter ID guide over on V8:
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=143723
Nice repair on the block. Good to hear it could be saved! I have a cracked block here that needs saving too.
Our resident Nailhead guru recommends using epoxy block filler in the water jacket up to the bottom of the freeze plugs. It stabilizes the bottom of the cylinders. It would be a very good idea in your case, to strengthen the repair area.
Product is called Nordbak. Filler should be added before the machine work is done.
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Walt - Thanks for the link on the torque converter ID, thought I looked over on V8 Buick but evidently missed it (there is a lot of info to sort through over there). I confirmed that the new one is a switch pitch.
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Grit blasted the frame on Saturday, painted the bottom side that afternoon and finished up this afternoon. Think it looks good. Found the VIN number and what I guess are part numbers. Also found the number 30 stamped once and -10 stamped in various locations. Anyway, glad to have that over with.
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Dwaine,
Looks great! It's better than the day it came off the assembly line. This is the stage in a restoration where it gets to be real fun.
John
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I see there are several sources (CARS, RockAuto, ClassicBuick, etc) for control arm bushings and the other various suspensions soft goods. Is one as good as the next?
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Dwaine,
Looks like the frame turned out great. I believe the front upper bushings are only available at Rare Parts.
The rest of the bushings, idler arm, etc. I bought Moog brand.
Mark
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Dwaine,
Looks like the frame turned out great. I believe the front upper bushings are only available at Rare Parts.
The rest of the bushings, idler arm, etc. I bought Moog brand.
Mark
Right. The front upper bushings are 64-65 Buick and Olds only. NAPA and Autozone sell the Rareparts at a discount. Reuse your originals if they are in good condition. The new ones look different.
Strange thing about the other bushings.....I've bought cheap ones, and top-of-the-line Moog. Both have the 'silent block' rubber inserts made by Harris. Can't say if that is still the case now-a-a-days.
Rockauto.com carries Moog parts. Get the part numbers and check prices on Amazon.com. Sometimes Amazon blows out stuff for half price if you catch them at the right time. Free shipping option too.
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Dwaine,
Looks like the frame turned out great. I believe the front upper bushings are only available at Rare Parts.
The rest of the bushings, idler arm, etc. I bought Moog brand.
Mark
Right. The front upper bushings are 64-65 Buick and Olds only. NAPA and Autozone sell the Rareparts at a discount. Reuse your originals if they are in good condition. The new ones look different.
Strange thing about the other bushings.....I've bought cheap ones, and top-of-the-line Moog. Both have the 'silent block' rubber inserts made by Harris. Can't say if that is still the case now-a-a-days.
Rockauto.com carries Moog parts. Get the part numbers and check prices on Amazon.com. Sometimes Amazon blows out stuff for half price if you catch them at the right time. Free shipping option too.
Thanks for the info guys. I'll keep plugging away.
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Slow but steady progress. Wonderful day in Wyoming, but looking towards winter cause I just had 5 cords of wood delivered.....was 34F the other morning.
Dwaine
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Dwaine, looks great! keep working away at it! Jon
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Built a rear axle dolly this morning using parts from a P.O.S. engine stand and a trampoline frame. Had been soaking the greasy areas over the last couple of days. Got the axle up on the dolly and pressure washed off what I could. Have similar markings that others have found. Intersting though that the black paint I can find looks like it was painted from the top down (see Pic 10a and 11a). Don't see any paint on the case and found fresh cast iron under the sludge (see Pic 1). May have to soak on this some but assume at this point that the case will be painted cast iron gray, the axle tubes black, and will try to replicate the various markings. So far I see green, blue, yellow, pink, and white. Axle marking says A-49 with the posi stamp.
Dwaine
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Dwaine, looking good. Show us the completed rear axle when its done. Should be as nice as the front suspension pieces which are sweet.
Dan
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First, Happy Thanksgiving to all. We traveled safely from western Wyoming to SW Nebraska for the holiday. Nice weather for driving. Secondly, I picked up the block, heads, parts, etc., from Wells Engine and Machine and I am excited. Still want to get the rear axle back together and on the frame before starting building the engine though. Anyway, here are a few pics.
Dwaine
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Dwaine, looking good. Show us the completed rear axle when its done. Should be as nice as the front suspension pieces which are sweet.
Dan
Rear axle complete and ready to install onto the frame. Tried my hand at the assembly line markings and don't think they turned out to bad. Went ahead and painted the pumpkin rather than painting it cast gray. Getting kinda fuzzy on how accurate a restoration can be after already painting the frame, control arms, ect. Anyway, I like it. Going to beef up my frame rollers and then install the axle. After that plan is to do a general shop clean-up and start on the motor.
Also posted a pic of a nice Mule deer that was in back of the house this morning. I love Wyoming just wish the NAPA was closer!
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Nice rack. The rear axle is nice too.
Dan
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Dwaine,
Looks great. Are those original GM brake drums, or did you buy them aftermarket?
Mark
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[quote author Mark Ascher link=topic=774.msg6510#msg6510 date=1323703383]
Dwaine,
Looks great. Are those original GM brake drums, or did you buy them aftermarket?
Mark
[/quote]
Mark - These are the original drums and backing plates, blasted and painted with Bill Hirsch Cast Gray. Brakes parts through NAPA.
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Just ordered interior components (seat covers, foam, panels, carpet, etc.) from Legendary. I've been talking with them for a while and they honored the recent discount. Did find out that they don't reproduce the 14" front arm rests, they only make the standard 11" A body arm rest. Interesting. Mine are not in to bad of shape so if the vinyl matches close enough I'll reuse.
Also ordered some trunk floor patches from Ames. They make ones that replace the area near the rear body brace and it also has the body brace bracket already welded on. I am very impressed at how well they match and fit. Got the TIG machine dialed in nice.
Dwaine
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Have been making slow (very slow) progress over the summer with work including 1/4 panel/trunk pan repairs plus repairing sins of the past. Did some light blasting the other day on the firewall and uncovered these markings. The car was originally white (C) with black (A) top so I guess this was used on the line going to paint. The C/A is on both sides. Also found 4443, not sure what the 32 would be. Below the C/A is what appears to be someones initial. I know finding these markings is really no big deal but I really enjoy it as it makes me wonder about the guy who put them there.
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Still plugging away at this. Making progress on the frame with fuel/brake lines installed (from Inline Tube). In addition, I've installed the front disk brakes (also from Inline Tube) with a Nailhead accent. Although we will so how it all works, I've happy with the fit of all these components and the support from Inline Tube has been good.
Will soon have wheels and exhaust bought and plan on assembling the motor over Christmas break. Want to get the body back on before spring.
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:headbang:Any progress is good.
Like the color on the calipers, nice touch.
Loren
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To quote Phil the Duck Commander "Happy, Happy, Happy"
Dwaine
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To quote Phil the Duck Commander "Happy, Happy, Happy"
Dwaine
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I like the three "before" pictures better than the "after" one. Looks great though.
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Dwaine,
Might have missed in an earlier posting but are you running roller rockers on that engine ?
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Dwaine,
Might have missed in an earlier posting but are you running roller rockers on that engine ?
Dan - No, but might be a future upgrade to consider.
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Cam broke in. Engine temp steady below 190. Smooth running. Motor start-up with the help of my Dad, it has been a good day.
http://youtu.be/a7Al3WADQUA (http://youtu.be/a7Al3WADQUA)
Dwaine
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It has been a while but finally got back to it. Don't think the trunk turned out too bad considering the level of repair required.
Dwaine
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Looks great, Dwaine! Which trunk paint did you use? Zolotone?
A big :thumbsup:
Chuck
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Great job !! Glad you are getting back to it.
Dan
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Looks great Dwaine! Nice work!
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Still plugging away.........
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Dear Weldar and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Still plugging away.........
That's all we can do ya' know! Glad to see more progress. Perhaps with the cooler weather, you'll be able to devote more 'luv to your Buick! :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Looks good! Is it going to be white with a red interior again?
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That is a very nice car. I have not seen any 50 year old shells that looked that good with the paint stripped.We have ran into some nightmares here in Michigan once the topcoat is removed. That looks like you can have it ready to paint a little quicker than most of us. Keep it posted,I am putting mine back to white and should be done painting in the near future.
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Looks good! Is it going to be white with a red interior again?
Jim - Will be keeping the red interior but i am undecided on the exterior. The original color was arctic white body with black top. I remember buying the car in 1976 and that black was flaking off. Went through a couple of repaints in the 80's which were all white. I now also own a 4sp which is white with black vinyl top. Have been thinking hard about darker silver exterior. How would that look with the red interior?
Dwaine
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That is a very nice car. I have not seen any 50 year old shells that looked that good with the paint stripped.We have ran into some nightmares here in Michigan once the topcoat is removed. That looks like you can have it ready to paint a little quicker than most of us. Keep it posted,I am putting mine back to white and should be done painting in the near future.
Well, most of the car is in very good shape. Quarter panels were toast as was part of the trunk pan. Also had to correct some damage to the rear around the taillight area. Getting very tired of sanding but do see the end in sight now. By the way what is your first name?
Dwaine
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Dear Weldar and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Still plugging away.........
That's all we can do ya' know! Glad to see more progress. Perhaps with the cooler weather, you'll be able to devote more 'luv to your Buick! :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
Edouard - It is a labor of luv for sure. Struggle sometimes with loving something when it can't love you back.
Dwaine
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Silver looks great with red or blue interiors. I really like the Buick red interiors.
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This is a photo of John Egel's silver convertible. It has a red interior. Nice combination.
Dan
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Dear Dwaine and mid-60s Buick caregivers, . . .
Edouard - It is a labor of luv for sure. Struggle sometimes with loving something when it can't love you back.
Oh I wouldn't say that . . . . just wait until you can actually drive the car! :glasses9: That's when the car will love you back! :love4:
Cheers, Edouard
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Looking good! It's nice to see a bare body to understand and appreciate the amount of time,money, and effort required to get a nice looking car! Remember it's your car so paint it what you will like! But it is always good to ask for advice ,opinions,and help. The advice and help I have received from the members on this site is priceless! :headbang:
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Dwaine,
Here are a couple of photos of the silver convertible with the red interior. I have better photos but they are on my other computer which has crashed. I hope you can get a general idea of that color combo from these.
You are doing a job with your restoration. Keep plugging away and you'll find that the end result was well worth it. The pride will last longer than the pain.
John Egel
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Wow! That looks so good!
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Have finally got some primer on. 2 coats of SPI (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/)) black epoxy followed by 3 coats of SPI 2K regular build. Only one door but I am pleased. Also, I need to clean my camera.
Dwaine
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Looks great Dwaine. I hadn't heard of the epoxy paints before. Keep us posted!
Chuck
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Dear Dwaine, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick caregivers looking for better still, . . .
Looks great Dwaine. I hadn't heard of the epoxy paints before. Keep us posted!
The doors look nice, but it is the improved durability of epoxy that is indeed interesting. Odd that epoxy-based paints have only shown up recently. I'm sure as soon as epoxy adhesives showed up that companies tried to make that bonding mechanism into a paint. So some smart cookie must have solved a problem that has been around for decades.
Cheers, Edouard
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Dear Dwaine, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick caregivers looking for better still, . . .
Looks great Dwaine. I hadn't heard of the epoxy paints before. Keep us posted!
The doors look nice, but it is the improved durability of epoxy that is indeed interesting. Odd that epoxy-based paints have only shown up recently. I'm sure as soon as epoxy adhesives showed up that companies tried to make that bonding mechanism into a paint. So some smart cookie must have solved a problem that has been around for decades.
Cheers, Edouard
Check out this SPI torture test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yA8q4K-_Bo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yA8q4K-_Bo). Kinda long but interesting.
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A little more progress. Actually this is a huge milestone for me. 3 coats of SPI epoxy primer.....
Dwaine
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Thanks for sharing the progress Dwaine!
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Dear Dwaine, Jim, and mid-60s Buick restorers,
A little more progress. Actually this is a huge milestone for me. 3 coats of SPI epoxy primer.....
Yes indeed that is an important milestone! Keep us posted on your progress! Restoring these cars always seems to take more time and effort than we would prefer. So we all need to encourage each other along the way!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Nice work Dwaine! That black primer is interesting. Seems shinier than I would expect. But I've not seen epoxy done before. Looking forward to following your progress!
Chuck
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Nice work Dwaine! That black primer is interesting. Seems shinier than I would expect. But I've not seen epoxy done before. Looking forward to following your progress!
Chuck
Epoxy primers can be shiny like that. I?m guessing some highbuild or other primer will go over the epoxy.
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Nice work Dwaine! That black primer is interesting. Seems shinier than I would expect. But I've not seen epoxy done before. Looking forward to following your progress!
Chuck
Epoxy primers can be shiny like that. I?m guessing some highbuild or other primer will go over the epoxy.
Chuck,
Body filler can be applied directly over the epoxy within a 7 day window so that is what I've been working on today (amazing what shows up with black). Blocking with 180 makes it easy to find those remaining low spots (the sanded epoxy leaves gray scratches and the low spots are shiny). Once these remaining low spots are taken care of I will apply another coat of epoxy and then 2K primer. Final block sanding on the 2K followed by a seal coat of reduced epoxy.
Dwaine
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One Step Closer..............
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Dear Weldar and mid-60s Buick restorers,
One Step Closer..............
That's a key moment when you are preparing for the beautiful topcoat of paint. All looks well! Keep up the good work! :icon_thumright:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Looking good!
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Looking good Dwaine .
Wish I was at that point , looking forward to seeing some color on it . keep up the great work .
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Hood Hinges and Hood Latch just returned from Detailed Plating. They look very nice indeed.
Detailed Plating link below. Also can be accessed through the BrakeBoosters link in the thread below.
https://www.detailplating.com/ (https://www.detailplating.com/)
http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,3689.msg25975.html#msg25975 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,3689.msg25975.html#msg25975)
Dwaine
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Good to hear that Steve's business is being carried on. I've also had good luck with Booster Dewey (now Booster Steve) for the vacuum boosters.
In fact, I have a freshly rebuilt vacuum booster that Steve did just before he retired. It's available if anyone is in need...
Thanks for sharing!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Trying to make some progress before the snow flies. Not perfect but I think it will work.
Dwaine
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Dear Dwaine and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Trying to make some progress before the snow flies. Not perfect but I think it will work.
Thanks for the update! I have a curiosity question. What are 5 holes on the glove compartment door for? I know there is a "Skylark" emblem on the door that isn't on the Special. Is that what the holes are for? I've thought of replicating this feature on my trusty wagon by buying a Special emblem, removing the mounting tangs, and securing it with emblem tape or something. Of course I've never had the time to do it!
Thanks again!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Edouard - There is a Skylark emblem above a small Gran Sport one.
Dwaine
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Dwaine, the paint looks fantastic!
It looks very OEM.... that can be tough to do. Nice job!
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Looks nice! Progress! Did you do a base with clear or base and metallic!?
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Looks nice! Progress! Did you do a base with clear or base and metallic!?
I have been working with the local GM Dealer paint shop (local for me means 45 miles away). I had them send in the cigarette tray for a color match and this is what came back. I did a test spray on the dash in the area where the dash cover goes and it matched well. This is all fine but I had the dash pad redone as part of the past group deal and I was not real happy with the color that I got back even though I had sent a sample of the color I wanted. I may end up repainting the dash pad (and the steering wheel for that matter). In retrospect I should have just asked for black in both items and then painted as I see fit. Anyway, more on all that in the future. The paint is Single Stage Omni - Medium Coral - Code 908122 OEM Code R43 (whatever that all means).
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Thanks for the reply! I might need to get some mixed! With the red interiors there are like 6 different reds and 7 different materials that are different shade of red! My post car even the seats are two tone red! The paint that I had mixed is a base with a iridescent top coat! I'm just hoping that I have enough as the guy who mixed and matched the color no longer works at the paint shop! He was very good and spend a lot of time getting colors right! I took him a original 65 road wheel and he did a great job matching the gray on the wheels!