65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: yachtsmanbill on December 26, 2018, 07:26:10 PM
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So the intro went well and I feel pretty at ease here, so I thought Id start a long running (long winded??) thred about this new build. Yeah, Buick M.D. started the GS line with this vehicle; one of only four built and only one know to exist... I love jerking the judges chains LOL...
The car is in amazing shape for being 54 years old. Other than barn dirt, its really exceptionally clean. Im new to antique Buicks so bear with me fellas! The ol' fireball 6 is coming out (anyone need it or a 3 speed, probably non synchroed' first gear) trans? Speak up! Its locked up from sitting but will probably have the heads off tomorrow. Gonna pull the 455 from the 400 and get it on the stand and opened up. Im ready for surgery. O.R. is prepped and the nurses are on standby having a smoke outside...
Its been a long day (felt good to do something actually!) and will shoot the breeze tomorrow after looking at stuff. If anyone has something to ad, PLEASE JUMP IN!! Honest, I need to learn this antique stuff hahaha... ws
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Ha Ha!! This is Pat, yachtsmanbill's old lady. He can talk about not knowing old stuff all he wants. 8 years ago he BUILT a 1926 Model T speedster in the garage. That was my introduction to want he can do. Now seriously, help him out. I want to drive the 1972 GSX with Bill in the '64....ppat
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I love it Bill!
It's a time machine. :tongue3:
And I look forward to the build journey!
(I have done two '64s. Both complete drivetrains, suspension and brakes. 40 years apart, first was and Olds 330, the second is a nailhead, and I am putting a BBB in my 1968 'lark, so I will help with any questions you might have. )
(http://www.wootmonkey.com/_data/i/upload/2017/03/24/20170324115657-ad7cc458-me.png)
(http://www.wootmonkey.com/_data/i/upload/2017/03/24/20170324115659-58dcf2a4-me.png)
(http://www.wootmonkey.com/_data/i/upload/2017/05/25/20170525193239-d6008b12-me.png)
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Will be following along all the way.
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Hey Mike... those old pics mustve come outa the shoe box LOL. Was that in about the mid 70's? Ill have a million questions, but as we move along, I know I am gonna need 67 GS 400 motor mounts for this one, and a rear sump oil pan for the 455. Otherwise just puttsing with trim and some odd sundries. I like the Cragars on the blue '64! Im torn between that and dog dish caps. ws
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Yes. the 70s. Like yesterday and a million years ago.
The '64 Special are from slides using an old "Pana-Vue" handheld viewer and took pics with my cellphone.
Tiny bulb and AA batteries makes them really yellow. :tard:
(http://sgws3productimages.azureedge.net/sgwproductimages/images/5/8-3-2018/87597283122245ha.jpg)
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Mike, try putting those slides in a Viewmaster so we can see them in 3D!
Bill and Pat, congrats on getting the deal done and getting it home. Looking forward to the progress!
The '64 chassis isn't much different than the '72. The front upper A-arms have metal bushings, the rest is very similar if not the same.
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PanaView... Man! all I used to do was slides! Last time I hauled them out, some had gotten damp and literally bled all over each other. The started to look like Jimi Hendrix posters LOL...
So on the advice of another member here. the engine pads I need are for a 1967 400 to get the 455 to bolt into the '64 frame. Am I getting close? Gonna start pulling stuff apart today. Lotsa pics coming up! ws
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Looks like a great project, Bill. By all means, bring us along on the journey!
And a special welcome to Pat. We have a few ladies that have posted here, but precious few spouses of members. So, I'm looking forward to hearing Pat's perspective on the project (or life, or whatever :sunny:) as Bill progresses. Teamwork is a wonderful thing!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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So yer from the Kalamity-Zoo eh? Yeah... Pats my right hand girl and go-to mentor when I get frustrated. Life for her before me was ho-hum with 6 kids, then she met "Mr. Excitement"... My projects never cease to amaze her! ws
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Close to Kalamazoo, actually south of Battle Creek. Kzoo has lots to offer, but we live in the 'Ginky Weeds'. Stop by any time!
I don't know how life could be more exciting than raising 6 kids :icon_biggrin:, but I'm glad that you've taken her over the top. Keep on amazing...her and us! :thumbsup:
:cheers2:
Chuck
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WILL DO CHUCK! Pat had never been on a big boat before, so her first intro was to my 36 foot Roamer and the 65 foot Hatteras. BIG STUFF and she picked it right up! I knew then she was special. We just celebrated 10 years together. We are both 63 now, and both becoming a tad more frail, but she sure isnt afraid to help where she can. Heck, she can read a tape measure and grab me tools outa the box and shes a wiz refinishing boat wood with 20 coats of varnish. I am blessed to have her!
We are both enthused about this project. She loves to drive the '72 XGS 455 and Ill teach her how to bang some gears with the four speed in the GX Special.
Her kids are all adults with 12 grandkids now. Whew. I never knew the joy hahaha.
So I have a pal that owns a limestone quarry in Bellevue, and the major mini-mart gas station in Williamston, not too far from you. Drop by and ask for Bill "SKY" Cheney. Send my regards... ws
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TA has the pads.
TA1820E $100
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Thanks Mike! I understand they raise the motor enough to interfere with hood to air cleaner fit...Ill look into the T/A website a little later. Warming up the air compressor right now LOL...
SKYBIRD 300 from V8 is stripping a 1967 ragtop GS 400. Its in parts for sale. Lotsa needed stuff there too.
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Dear Bill, Pat, Michael, Jim, Walt, Chuck, and 65GS.com citizens,
Secret experimental 1964 GX 455
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif). . . . Sufferin' succotash! This is a most gabby secret I've seen in a long time! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Ha Ha!! This is Pat, yachtsmanbill's old lady. He can talk about not knowing old stuff all he wants. 8 years ago he BUILT a 1926 Model T speedster in the garage. That was my introduction to want he can do. Now seriously, help him out. I want to drive the 1972 GSX with Bill in the '64....ppat
Well, you then also deserve your own welcome.
By all means welcome to 65GS.com! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/welcome_smiley.gif)
Bill maybe you can answer a question for me. So what is in the space for the automatic transmission shifter? I painted the OEM shift indicators black like this:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Reassembly-of-Speedometer-and/i-pkHmSNL/0/3895db5b/XL/IMG_2972-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Reassembly-of-Speedometer-and/i-pkHmSNL/A)
But than I went hog wild and put a polished aluminum plate to hide the window:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Reassembly-of-Speedometer-and/i-pRfSQD7/0/36a1186d/XL/IMG_2974-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Reassembly-of-Speedometer-and/i-pRfSQD7/A)
Am I seeing your photo correctly and the window just shows a black surface?
PanaView... Man! all I used to do was slides! Last time I hauled them out, some had gotten damp and literally bled all over each other.
*Sigh* memories! I always preferred slides. My underwater photos were almost always slides (except when I explored B&W!) However, my amateur astronomy photos would use whatever film had the best speed for the situation. For a long time the print films were a lot faster than slides.
So on the advice of another member here. the engine pads I need are for a 1967 400 to get the 455 to bolt into the '64 frame. Am I getting close?
Thanks Mike! I understand they raise the motor enough to interfere with hood to air cleaner fit.
My wagon has the TA-Performance pads and does have clearance problem but that is because she has a EFI throttle body that is an additional inch taller than a standard carburetor. I don't know if the TA-Performance pads are actually taller than then the 1967 OEM pads. Perhaps someone can go public and answer that question for us all!
Thanks for all the insight guys! That's what makes this forum so pleasant! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Greetings Edouard and fellow baby Skylark fans... The reason I posted that one pic was specifically with you in mind! I honestly dont know if the "window" pops out/in and was painted at the factory, or installed clear and the whole dash just painted as one. Seeing as they built a few thousand a day, youd think they went with the easiest method possible. Even on my 72, I was surprised to see two or three different bezels with different style vents with or w/o AC.
So if the judges see it, just say it was a one off prototype from the Buick engineering department that one of the guys saved. Dang judges!
On the film thing... I used to shoot Kodachrome ASA 100 for better color. The 400 was dull and grainy, but FAST. The slide film was nice and slow and I did a bunch of work all over Europe (Avenue des Champs-?lys?es , Londons Tower bridge etc.) from roof tops showing tail light streaks from time exposures at 14 y.o. Learned that one from National geographic! ws
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..... maybe you can answer a question for me. So what is in the space for the automatic transmission shifter? I painted the OEM shift indicators black
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My '66's just have the shift indicator painted black. It's the same piece as the column shift cars.... clear for the column shift, painted black for floor shift.
Primary reason for the '67 GS400 engine mount frame pads is to position the engine (back?) by one inch compared to the later years. I don't know enough about the swap to tell you what the differences are in the height of the rubber mounts.
I once bought a 455 from the junkyard for a 'someday' use, but 'someday' hasn't come yet! Besides, I like the Nailheads!
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Im pricing out some 1967 GS 400 mounts and aux stuff right now. Thinking outside the box like I do, my main concern is keeping the Z-bar as a datum point. Really not too different than a BBC in a 64-65 chevelle... Dear old dad was a GM engineer for his career at Electro-Motive in LaGrange, Il. and always extolled the virtues of GM's "standardization". We'll see how it plays out. At least it aint a dodge! ws
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Dear Bill, Walt, and mid-60s Buick owners who are curious about each other's cars,
Greetings Edouard and fellow baby Skylark fans... The reason I posted that one pic was specifically with you in mind!
. . . . .
Well thanks! I've always been curious how the shift looked without the automatic transmission indicators. I suspect I went overboard with the way I dealt with it. That's the problem of being a Model Railroader. On HO scale models, very tiny features really matter while the overall look of the layout . . . No kidding, it doesn't look a like real railroad no matter what you do! :laughing7: I someone were to ask for some advice on how to do replicate what I did, I would suggest putting some sort of metal or plastic plate but paint it the black as the rest of the dash. That's much simpler what nobody will notice the difference.
On the film thing... I used to shoot Kodachrome ASA 100 for better color. The 400 was dull and grainy, but FAST. The slide film was nice and slow and I did a bunch of work all over Europe (Avenue des Champs-?lys?es , Londons Tower bridge etc.) from roof tops showing tail light streaks from time exposures at 14 y.o. Learned that one from National geographic! ws
Wow! That must have been exciting photographic assignment! I've forgotten what film I was shooting in my Nikonos V underwater camera but it was slides. After I wrote that posting I was reminded how much I was a glutton for punishment. Two of the most difficult venues to take photos is underwater and astronomy. I sure know how to pick 'em don't I! :BangHead:
Thanks for sharing all the interesting info! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Good morning Edouard and fellow Buick photograhers and overwhelmed "A" body enthusiasts...
I finally finished gutting the '75 rods' a knocking' 455 that slated to go into the GX 455. I couldnt believe how tight some stuff was. The 2 cam sprocket bolts (plastic gear and wore out chain) wouldnt come out so I slid the cam out with the chain and crank gear still attached... reverse engineering Ha! The damper slid off real easy with a puller (always use one regardless of the fit) after I had to get the 3/4 electric impact on it with a 1-1/8" socket for the crank bolt. Even Methuselah struggled, but the bolt surrendered.
Two rod bearings were so worn out that they actually overlapped each other in the big ends of the rods. The crank journals are wasted showing almost .025-.030" of wear BEFORE any grind can happen. The mains look perfect so thats gonna help. I think the mains' install was OEM, but the rods were done in the car once by some one who didnt have a clue. Orange RTV on the rail and cork gasket oozed out enough to cover up the dipstick hole etc. Just a gooey mess.
Did get a few calls on the '88 T-bird turbo coupe I rescued. Should make a 15X profit on that one, but will surrender 1/2 to Pat because she earned it helping me with my addiction LOL. So it looks like a major overhaul on the 455... rings, bearings, crank, cam and lifters, and a pair of 1970 small chamber heads... nothing too fancy I hope.
Should hear from a guy stripping out a 1967 GS 400 about brackets and pulleys today. Ill have all my cleaned and painted ducks in a row for re-assembly! ws
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A tardy welcome to you and Pat. Keep the narrative coming. Great stuff.
Dan
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Heading out for GB right now! Verizon, Olive Garden for lunch and then a wine stop at Festival Foods. Getting home Im gonna pick up the tools and put away. Gotta stay ahead of the mess! Where in GB are you? ws
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Heading out for GB right now! Verizon, Olive Garden for lunch and then a wine stop at Festival Foods. Getting home Im gonna pick up the tools and put away. Gotta stay ahead of the mess! Where in GB are you? ws
Located in Allouez on the east side. Not too far off of I-43. Going to the Festival Foods by Menard’s ?
Dan
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I get through GB myself a few times a year, maybe I?ll run into you there.
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Hi Bill,
Welcome to the 64-65 (oh, and 66!) Buick A-Body playground. Check out this thread Tony S. posted last year:
http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,3533.0.html (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,3533.0.html)
455/2004R and later GM 10 bolt in a 65 Skylark. And he lives in Milwaukee....
Mark
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Thanks Mark... pretty neat undertaking! Wish that were my mom LOL... Im gonna one-up him with a 455-4 speed i hope! Im already (or should be??) committed haha... ws
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YEPPERS... festival for the wine sale (!), then to Verizon on Willard for a cavity exam, then off to Olive Garden for some pig-out :tard:, and back in time for a nap.... Ahhhh ! :sleepy2: :sleepy2: ws
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The new baby arrived at 12:05 PM on January 3rd !!! :blob7: He's a healthy 115 pounds and 28 inches long, and hung like a horse LOL. guess Im gonna hafta order T/A engine pads. I was in touch with a guy that didnt honor being in line for stuff, then it became "that its not worth it to lay in the mud then drive 15 miles to ship" :bootyshake: :bootyshake: Thanks pal... hope I can return the favor!
Anyways, the V6 and 3 speed is getting extracted today I hope. I havent broken a single bolt yet LOL. I am keeping the bell housing and Z bar but all else is fair game. Timing chest, rockers, distributor and engine sheet metal is spoken for. The rest is going to the scrap guy, so sing out! ws
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BTW... its sooo much easier to work on like this! ws
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com "expectant fathers," . . . . .
The new baby arrived at 12:05 PM on January 3rd !!! :blob7: He's a healthy 115 pounds and 28 inches long, and hung like a horse LOL.
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Oh my! I do hope it was delivered by C-section!! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
guess Im gonna hafta order T/A engine pads.
Sorry to hear about your disappointing experience with a seller. You can count on TA-Performance to be a lot nicer! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Angelic_smiley_small.gif)
BTW... its sooo much easier to work on like this! ws
Thanks for sharing your project! Keep those pictures coming! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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G'nevening fellow Buick lovers and hemophiliacs! Got the V6 completely out today and on the cart. I rhink its destined for the scrap yard, unless anyone wants anything els off of it. Nice new rebuilt 1 barrel Ca. 1980, three speed manual with complete linkage set up minus the Z bar. Got the whole thing out from above except for one dust cover screw under the flywheel housing. Once it was up off the mounts, the starter caught up to the X member with more UP and Forward steps. Got it out, but Im satisfied, the 455 assembly on he mounts etc will happen in situ. Exhaust stuff oughta be fun too. Check out the HEAVY DUTY Z BAR. Another complicated but good design!... Check out the grease boots; still supple.
Going to look at a 430/455 collection for a top end (1970 ish) and a std. crankshaft & rods I hope. The $$$ is right, so we'll see. Camera will be along! ws
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Good job getting stuff done, things around my place move quite a bit slower.
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Dear Bill, Jim, and 65GS.com seekers of a "power vocabulary" . . . . .
G'nevening fellow Buick lovers and hemophiliacs!
Oooh, 'hemophiliacs' is a keeper! I'll have to add that to my vocabulary! . . . :laughing7:
Exhaust stuff oughta be fun too.
Have you thought at all about what sort of exhaust you want for your Buick big-block?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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#" pipes out the front of the rear tires with glass packs... not really yet butsomething a little throaty. The XGS with 3" duals and short magna flow muffs has a brutal drone. Cant hardly hear the radio... ws
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Yeah Ed... on some statin stuff for cholesterol and when ya get a bump ya turn black and blue instantly, or a scratch and ya see blood drops all over the floor, then feel the drips coming off the elbow. Getting older stinks... :violent1: ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who really want to hear the car radio . . . .
#" pipes out the front of the rear tires with glass packs... not really yet butsomething a little throaty. The XGS with 3" duals and short magna flow muffs has a brutal drone. Cant hardly hear the radio... ws
Yes, I still have some difficulty hearing the radio in my trusty wagon. However, I'm continuing to work on that problem.
Are you thinking about rolling your own exhaust or would you be thinking more of an exhaust kit?
A curious mind would like to know!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Id really have no compunctions to rolling my own, just so the stalks dont poke through the tubing! :occasion14: :occasion14: Im super spoiled with the 3" SS system that came on the BAD LAD with the Hooker Headers; but the drone.... It seems that all the stock systems for any kind of OEM dual exhaust is like <2" . Out to the rear bumper is MANDATORY as well. What say the exspurts? MIDAS is out and the custom guy that loves Buicks 3 doors away is gone. :sad1:
Going with iron manifolds on this job to keep it simple. Probably hafta get a pre-bent set and modifitificate it. Possibly a '64-65 BBC chevelle set? We'll play this one before pulling out the net LOL... ws
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My favorite mufflers are the Walker Dynomax Super Turbos.
Sounds healthy at idle, fairly quiet at cruise with no drone, and sounds great when you get on it.
2- 1/2" is plenty big for a street car.
Make sure you get 64-67 tailpipes, as the 68-72 pipes are shorter and won't reach the back bumper.
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I purchased a 2-1/2" exhaust system for a chevelle a while back for my 1965 Skylark. It was designed for headers and didnt go all the way to the manifolds. Since I have a nailhead in the car all I had to do was fab some short pipes to connect to the manifolds. Came up a little short on the back end but I added some chrome tips to make up for it. Dont remember the brand but I purchased from Summit.
Id really have no compunctions to rolling my own, just so the stalks dont poke through the tubing! :occasion14: :occasion14: Im super spoiled with the 3" SS system that came on the BAD LAD with the Hooker Headers; but the drone.... It seems that all the stock systems for any kind of OEM dual exhaust is like <2" . Out to the rear bumper is MANDATORY as well. What say the exspurts? MIDAS is out and the custom guy that loves Buicks 3 doors away is gone. :sad1:
Going with iron manifolds on this job to keep it simple. Probably hafta get a pre-bent set and modifitificate it. Possibly a '64-65 BBC chevelle set? We'll play this one before pulling out the net LOL... ws
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So EZ, did you have any clearance issues? My '72 with the 3" needs shock spacers (towers) on the back to alter the geometry slightly for clearance. The pipes are about 1/4" away. Just curious.. its a long way away from that turn off ramp! ws
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So my pal, an ex GS owner (1965 ragtop in 1975) sent me this. Just wanted to share it... ws
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvA-8s6Z2wY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvA-8s6Z2wY)
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Dear Bill, Walt, EZ Cool, and mid-60s Buick owners seeking exhaust harmony,
My favorite mufflers are the Walker Dynomax Super Turbos.
Sounds healthy at idle, fairly quiet at cruise with no drone, and sounds great when you get on it.
2- 1/2" is plenty big for a street car.
Make sure you get 64-67 tailpipes, as the 68-72 pipes are shorter and won't reach the back bumper.
My wagon also has a 2-1/2" exhaust system from Pypes and Dynomax Super Turbos. I do like the sound of the Super Turbos, but they are a little loud at the moment. This could be a result of the wagon cargo area acting as a huge resonator. This is something I want to look into.
I purchased a 2-1/2" exhaust system for a chevelle a while back for my 1965 Skylark. It was designed for headers and didnt go all the way to the manifolds. Since I have a nailhead in the car all I had to do was fab some short pipes to connect to the manifolds.
A friend of mine told me that if you want the best fit, you are better off with the TA-Performance kit. It is after all designed for a Buick.
So my pal, an ex GS owner (1965 ragtop in 1975) sent me this. Just wanted to share it... ws
Nice car!! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I did not have any clearance issues at all.
So EZ, did you have any clearance issues? My '72 with the 3" needs shock spacers (towers) on the back to alter the geometry slightly for clearance. The pipes are about 1/4" away. Just curious.. its a long way away from that turn off ramp! ws
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RADIAL THUNDERMONGS??? HOLD THE PRESSES!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLlAxq5TaL4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLlAxq5TaL4)
Havent checked in for a while so here goes... Need some sage advice about getting some front springs for the Special. Traded in the V6 at the scrap yard with the 3 speed, manifolds, and a bunch of iron (oh the irony!) and a turbo 400 that in total netted me 21.46. YES, thats correct.
So I picked up a 1970 complete 455 to strip down. I was gonna keep the heads and intake and maybe the crank. The crank is out of the picture, so i am going with a reman crank with bearings. The block is going in next week for an assessment (sonic testing), and if good, a bore job and all the other stuff that goes with it, plus a valve job. Hope the heads check out. I am using my tired 1974 455 block with the 1970 top end.
Picked up a set of gently used T/A +.040" forged dished pistons, rods and a Schneider pretty hot cam and Rhoads lifters for 250.00 today. That, and COUCH shopping with Pat wore me out! Totaled about 250 miles today.
So the guy that had the 1970 motor tells me it was his brothers... "I think it had a rod knock". Yeah, at the bottom of a lake. Its amazing how sound travels through water, Right Edouard??? :read2:
Heres some pics of a rod knockin' block for kicks. Ill check in tomorrow for some more breaking news LOL... ws
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com parts cobblers,
Thanks for the update and the pictures.
. . . .
Need some sage advice about getting some front springs for the Special.
. . . .
I'm afraid this question might have gotten lost in all the interesting info. I know there are some good resources for springs, but I've forgotten. Could somebody remind me?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The gal at ESPO Srings & Things has been helpful to several here.
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+1 for Laura at Springsnthings.com!!
Chuck
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Thanks guys... Just sent her an email! Kinda looking for "re-purposed" LOL. maybe new is the way to go...? ws
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Yes, Laura. She?s knowledgeable and that helps. You can get stock springs or +/- inches. I also got Moog front end parts there.
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Laura got back to me with a cost of 90.00 plus the truck. I was hoping on a set of used ones. The MOOGs I can source locally and avoid the shipping. ws
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The aftermarket frame mounts that I used and have used work well. I think the first set I had were Poston. But I bought some TA's from some members and they are the same from what i remember.
One if the key things is to pick the right holes on the mounts to use. One set of holes is higher than the other. One worked better for my header clearance than the other. My engine has a b4b edelbrock intake and matching carb. I do run just the standard edelbrock air cleaner too. I tried to put a one inch spacer under the carb years ago and at that point I couldn't close the hood without the carb stud trying to poke through.
If you're running a stock style set up and not going to run a SPI intake or anything like that you shouldn't have an issue with TA mounts. I use the cast version mounts.
With your front springs.....my 64 Special I had was a 6cyl and the original springs were still in it. I had no issues unless I made tight turns then the tires would rub. I had 225/60/ 15 tires on cragars.
I was more worried about the headers hitting the ground.....they hung low . Once I put the rear end in with a 390 gear and a mini spool I couldn't hear the front tires rub.....just the screeching of the tires fighting each other.
That car is the picture in my Avatar on V8.
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AH HA!!! The secret guy from Plainfield! Do you know a cop named Frank Jawowiak in town? Used to be a big time Buick guy from Darien originally...
The pads Im getting from T/A are the cast iron jobs. I just looked at the special and theres access holes in the crossmember to get at the bolts; Hallelujah ! I know the 455 has front or back spaced mounting holes in the block for the motor mounts, which is good. I am going off the Z bar set up at the end of the block for a datum point. Everything to the back or to the front should work from there. Do you think Ill need to do a mock up and mark the frame to drill holes for the mounts? The trans X member will probably hafta go back a bit for the 4 speed.
This job is gonna run cast manifolds with a stock intake and a quadrajet. Finally dropped the block and heads off today and then the guy tells me that the start is 2 weeks out. That'll give me time to work on the car. So ya think the V6 springs will hold the 455 up? The original F78 x 14 tires that are low on air are a little misconceiving. Id kinda like to stick with black wheels and poverty caps or baby moons. Hows G70 x 14s gonna play out (how ever that works out for TA Radials...)?? ws
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The original holes in the cross member will work. It's bolt and go. Just gave to figure out which holes on the ta's moun to use the high or low holes. The frame has 2 sets of holes for the trans cross member. When installing a 400 trans you have to use the 2 rearward holes. A 300 or 350 trans the front 2 holes.
Mocking it up is totally up to you.
I would suggest when changing the frame mounts us to wrap a piece if wire around the bolt .... Loose enough so you can pull is it to get it out once you start the bolt. I list a few bolts down in that front cross member......it's a pita to get them out.
That officers name sounds familiar but I don't know many police anymore. Joliet patrols my hood.
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Stuff rags in the access from the bottom of the first member where the lower A-arms attatch to catch the bolts when they fall of the wire. :laughing7:
(Axe me how I know)
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That sounds like an old Model T Ford transmission band trick! I'll use that tomorrow! ws
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Had perfect access with a socket on a 10" extension for 4 of them. Broke them all loose first and captured a few with a box wrench. The worst one was by the hole where the fuel line runs up through.
Cleaned up some stuff after pulling the front wheels, as in that wasp nest and a bunch of mud daubers. I think the tires would be a shakin'... ws
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So reading Ronnies thred, Ive seen several 67-72 A bodies with a partial rear sump oil pan installed. The partials were cut out for the Y pipe to cross over from the drivers side. Isnt the true center sump pan from a Riviera with steering linkage behind the crossmember?
If Im w-w-incorrect, I guess Ill be on the hunt for another pan... Exspurts?? Bill (Howdy Ronnie!)
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Hi,
The pan you have I believe should work, the center sump pans are more centered, I tried to put a 430 from a 67 Electra in my 65 a year before I went the nailhead route, and I had a center sump pan, hence 1 of the reasons it never got installed.
I thing to note there are 2 positions you can install the motor mounts on the block, I believe you need them on closer to the trans but can't remember, as it was 12 years ago.
Good luck with the project
Regards,
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I thing to note there are 2 positions you can install the motor mounts on the block, I believe you need them on closer to the trans but can't remember, as it was 12 years ago.
Good luck with the project
Regards,
The two sets of holes in the frame pads are mainly there for when a person is installing headers, they give the option of moving the engine back for a little more clearance. if you're not running headers i'd strongly recommend the stock position. All rear sump oil pans have the Y pipe relief formed in them except the 67 pans and those pans have clearance issues with the 5/8 pickup tubes.
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Thanks guys! Just looking back in the pic files, my 72 455 XGS shows the motor mount bolted to the rear set of holes on the block. Is that gonna be the same on the 64? The other pic shows the relative frame to pan clearance on the 72 as well. Hopefully theres that much room. The 64 is gonna run on iron manifolds. Headers for more reasons than one, arent my choice anymore; heat, longevity, not that much net gain on HP etc etc... The iron flows surprisingly well...
I hafta ad that the T-10 is almost exactly one inch longer than the 3 speed manual. Ive already got to shorten the driveshaft. Thats no biggy, but MAYBE, the rear mounted mounts will add the inch I need... exspurts?? ws
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Hey Ronnie... are ya in here?? ws
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Bill, in your situation you want to use the holes in the frame pads that keep your Z bar hole in the block aligned with the Z bar bracket on the frame. that way you keep all your clutch pedal geometry from being wonky. the only option you have for the motor mounts in an A body is the rear set of holes in the block. the front holes are big car only
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Absolutely correct! I am calling the Z-bar geometry the "datum point". Theres not that much give in it, but its a wayyy better design than the later models. It also "seems" that there should be plenty of room for the oil pan to crossmember fit. So will the T/A frame pads fit up on the frame and engine block mounted motor mounts? I sure hope so.
I was considering a mock up... hope thats not gonna be necessary. However, as I am a pistol for cleaning and tapping all the fastener connections (nuts and bolts etc), if some thing is off, its not a major kampf to unfasten and move. ws
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TA frame pads will work in that 64 chassis just fine. I used a bare block to do a mock up to get everything just where I wanted it before trying to drop a fully dressed 455 in place.
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MAN! Thats so purty, its a shame to hafta cover it all with sheet metal! I wished I had the luxury of working like that!! Im still in search of the flywheel. Any ideal how long of a speedo cable to get to the passenger side drive hole, and does that cable go over or under the trans? Some one across the hall said there were two clamps for it on the trans mount bolts but didnt say up or down!
BTW 166 T flexplate fit the OEM bellhousing just hinky-dinky! ws
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So it was -2F this morning but spring has sprung. I found out that following the book was great, until I went to jack up the lower control arm with no motor or sheet metal on the front. The springs lifted the rest of the car off the jack stands! Couldnt get enough lift to release the nut on the upper ball joint that was only on by about 2-3 turns. Hmm...
What would Akhenattan do? Think like an Egyptian. I grabbed a short 3/4 ton come along and hooked it on the upper with the chain to the lower. A few clicks and it was up far enough to release the nut. Then ratcheted it all the way down and pulled the springs. Eezy-Peezy. There was a bunch of sandy crud in the lower saddles but after a shot with a screwdriver and vacuum, it was clean enough to really clean up for some finesse work.
The ball joints released out of the taper with a few smacks of the hammer, and stopped on the nuts aided by the spring tension. One or two more days of taking stuff apart and itll be ready for re-assembly.
How about this under-the-dash-shot? I need to get a longer speedo cable for the T-10. How long do I need? The drive is on the passenger side, so its over or under the trans face. ws
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Some more time capsule pics. Still finding neat stuff... Still need that longer speedo cable and an antenna mast... ws
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Bill,
PLEASE DO NOT throw out that master cylinder! Those of us on here doing original restorations are all the time trying to find those to send off and be sleeved/rebuilt. That one you have there is a beauty and you need to put it up for sale on here. Same thing for the shocks--if they came off without any damage to the threaded end, they can be rebuilt for a car going thru 400 pt judging. They fit right on the GS just like they do that Special.
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YEP... I was using the Hands of a Surgeon removing this stuff. I even saved the "OK" brake lines and the OEM "T" fitting. The shocks came off with a small vise grip on the double D on top of the stem, and a box wrench on the nuts. After they were loose, they spun off by finger. Bushings and washers almost perfect. The master cylinder is perfect as well. Personally, a final thought at bedtime no less, was if I were a judge, I couldnt nick anyone more than a point for a true safety upgrade like a double master.
So I finally got my T/A engine pads today; yippee! What a quality piece (2) of cast iron! So theres 6 holes drilled and tapped in each one. Do I use the forward or rear mounted holes for the 455? I hate to crowd the firewall with the heater hose conns and power brake booster right there. Thoughts? Ideas?? Ive heard the block holes to use get the motor forward as far as possible. Thats about 1-1/2". ws
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... Still need that longer speedo cable ... ws
Try your local auto parts store or Amazon, $12-$18.
ATP pn Y804 is 63"
pn Y803 is 83"
pn Y892 is 100"
pn Y863 is 120"
Full list of their cables is here:
http://atpautomotive.com/cables?engine=0&limit=200&make=0&model=0&subcategory=713&year=0 (http://atpautomotive.com/cables?engine=0&limit=200&make=0&model=0&subcategory=713&year=0)
The 1966 assembly manual shows 56" for automatic and 68" for 3 speed manual.
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http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=569310 (http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=569310)
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Thanks Brian... since I am gonna need the base plate and all that stuff, Im gonna wait for the West Bend swap meet in Feb.
Walt... thanks for the numbers, kinda weird the auto and manual numbers are so different; I think the T-10 on the passenger side is like 80+ inches. Ill hafta measure the old one, add, and hope LOL... ws
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Bill,
The 65 and 66 GS cars that came with the 3-speed manual used a Ford top-loader 3-speed, which had the speedo connection on the passenger side. So Walt's information above for the speedo cable length on the GS with 3-speed should get you really close.
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Dear Bill, Brian, Walt, Brian, and mid-60s Buick "parts hounds,"
Still need . . . an antenna mast... ws
[url]http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=569310[/url] ([url]http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=569310[/url])
Yup, that's the mast on my trusty wagon now. Here are pictures of the original and the Fusick reproduction.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Buick-antenna-vs-fusick/i-7DrCW9G/0/5a45bde9/XL/Comparison%20of%20Fusick%20and%20factory%20antenna%20-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Buick-antenna-vs-fusick/i-7DrCW9G/A)
It isn't identical, but I would assume even a Buick Club of America judge would be fooled by this reproduction.
Here is what it looks like on the car:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Buick-antenna-vs-fusick/i-h23phZG/0/61312f1b/X2/Fusick%20radio%20antenna%20installed%20-X2.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Buick-antenna-vs-fusick/i-h23phZG/A)
You certainly cannot go wrong with that!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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A Ford top loader??? How bizarre! The '64 crash box is a muncie for sure with the speedo connection on the drivers side. Maybe that 68" job will fit. Hmm
Sooo Buick restorers and audiophiles; when the mast mounts to the fender, does it just butt up against the stub on the cowl, and the black nut tighten it up? Being the anti-purist that I am, I have considered installing one or two Chevrolet SS angled antennas on the rear fenders. $50.00 aint the end of the world, but wheres the attaching stuff come from?? ws
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I always loved those dual antennas on the mid 60s Chevys.
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WHEW! I thought Id have to climb the scaffolding for that one! I like 'em too and keeping within resto-mod limits, should be fully permissible! Mite hafta consider going that route. Hmmm... ws
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com radio experts,
Sooo Buick restorers and audiophiles; when the mast mounts to the fender, does it just butt up against the stub on the cowl, and the black nut tighten it up? Being the anti-purist that I am, I have considered installing one or two Chevrolet SS angled antennas on the rear fenders. $50.00 aint the end of the world, but wheres the attaching stuff come from?? ws
There is a chrome piece that goes in between the outer fender and the black antenna nut. Here is a close-up of that assembly:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Biquettes-styrene-antenna-bezel-gasket/i-F5csfKT/0/3407712a/XL/New%20cork%20antenna%20gasket-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Biquettes-styrene-antenna-bezel-gasket/i-F5csfKT/A)
You can find both items on eBay from time to time. However, getting all those pieces in decent condition could get pricey. Have you thought about what sort of music system you want in this car? My wagon was so well cared for that these original pieces were still in excellent shape, so replacing the antenna was the only thing worth considering. As a matter of fact I never listen to broadcast radio stations. Instead I've switched to Bluetooth music coming from my smart phone. If you don't want to pick up broadcast stations perhaps you should patch up the hole for the antenna. You aren't trying to make a original show car and that would be a cleaner look.
Other ideas gang?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hello Edouard and fellow Geek Squad music aficionados... :icon_salut: Up here in the hinterlands, theres two FM radio stations and they merely rotate the same studio play list about an hour apart and it lasts 2 hours of DREG music. In my truck, I have sirius radio, and in the shop I have a google hoo-doo-vodoo radio that works off the wifi in the house.
Cell service isnt much better and I survive on a crack phone that send calls and receives them as well. What a concept. It wont flush the toilet from Hawaii or turn the heat up from Uranus, altho it may get a call from Ming the Merciless telling me Flash and the Baron are in deep trouble. Zarkov is working on a new communicator. The trial model looks like a shoe... :nono:
You guys can call anytime ya want. If I dont answer, Im up on a ladder or up shat creek without a life jacket :laughing3: :laughing3:
Now its out to the shop for some Uriah Heep... ws
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com audiophiles,
Hello Edouard and fellow Geek Squad music aficionados... :icon_salut: Up here in the hinterlands, theres two FM radio stations and they merely rotate the same studio play list about an hour apart and it lasts 2 hours of DREG music.
Well that's no reason to go to a lot of trouble to restore an antenna mast is it! :laughing7:
In my truck, I have sirius radio
Well believe it or not you could get a radio that would fit in your Buick's dash and give you access to Sirus. RetroSound has stereos for classic cars with Sirus:
https://www.retromanufacturing.com/ (https://www.retromanufacturing.com/)
Cell service isnt much better and I survive on a crack phone that send calls and receives them as well. What a concept.
So you haven't been seduced by smart-phone insanity yet. I'm not big on smart phones but I've been using Macs since 1988! That's over 30 years! So I had to buy the first iPhone and I continue to try to be reasonable about Apple products. Alas, Apple isn't trying nearly has hard to be reasonable in their own designs! :BangHead:
However, if you don't have your music digitized, the Bluetooth option is probably more effort than it is worth.
So back to your scratching your head as far as what to do with that hole in the right outer fender! :icon_scratch:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Greetings fellow Buick archaeologists... Spent some time on the time capsule today, and am still amazed at the things I find...
A virgin ashtray? Well, there was one butt in there with red lipstick... probably Berthas' pal sneaking a spud after church LOL. To match this, a virgin cigar lighter. Vacuuming the rugs to get some crud out, I came across the seat belt tag and opened the belts up. I cant figger out how to extend the main belt tho. Is there a secret??
Pulled the drive shaft, parking brake cable, and crossmember out. The OEM U-joint was kinda dry. Never seen one like this. Turn one cap and they both roll. Hmmm. Tried the new T/A motor mount frame pads. What a quality piece of iron! It should be a pleasure installing these! Exspurts: Which holes go where??
Still on the hunt for that flywheel and some front springs for a GS 400, used preferably. Any old stuff I take out is fare game, but in return for a few bucks, ya gotta promise me to keep an eyeball peeled for a 400-430-455 manual trans FLYWHEEL. I know theres one out there somewhere! Enjoy guys... ws
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Just a few more. I like taking pics. Too bad I cant go Blue Teefs on the radio. Sure is a purty piece. Only problem so far is the mousehouse that WAS in the headliner... sucked it clean today! ws
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:sleepy2: :sleepy2: She got the goldmine and I got the shaft. Strange looking U-joint with the OEM tie strap across the yoke. Strange things you see that havent been butchered! The front springs are 17-1/8" long relaxed. NEED TWO! ws
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Hi Bill,
I have an original antenna mast from a 65 Skylark that's in pretty good shape. And the teardrop bezel as well. I assume they are the same as the 64. The teardrop bezels are reproduced and can be had at CARS oldbuickparts.com (http://oldbuickparts.com). Part number is AB645-3.
If interested in any of the used stuff, shoot me a PM.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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I'll also check the size of the front springs I removed from my 65 GS and let you know.
Chuck
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Sure thing Chuck! Is the big black plastic nut there as well? Please advise! Bill in TR
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That would be great too! A fellow member here has a 67 set (400 GS) for 20.00 but I dont think he's ready to pull them yet. Let me know please! All of a sudden this guy is gonna be getting assembled, and Id like all that stuff cleaned and painted and rarin' to go! ws
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Bill if your radio is in good working order you can use it with redirad! This is a made in Milwaukee WI
Item that you can use your iPhone and blue tooth with! Works very well in my buddy’s convertible!
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Bill , As Brian mentioned Don't throw out that master cylinder . Either him or I will take it . I was looking for one like that and found an NOS one so I don't really need one right now but wouldn't mind having another one on the shelf .
If Brian don't want it I would like to be second in line . I will also measure the front springs that i took out of my 65GS project tomorrow , when I got the car it was set up for a 455 BBB and they actually don't look that old . I,ll let you know .
Thanks .
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Thanks for that John... Yesterday I put up a caveat in my post about interesting things that guys may want for a 400* restoration. Most of this stuff taken off I have no use for. Ill gladly put it up here for anyone in need. Myself? I need 2 front springs compatible with a 455 BBB or, a BBB (400-430-455) manual trans flywheel. The latter becoming unobtanium LOL.
Ive never been one to sit on stuff if theres another need. Im an old horse trader; Theres stuff I need, + or - $$$, and of course shipping. I can promise you that this stuff was installed in Flint, with 33K on the clock. When the project is done, this stuff will get listed between here and V8 or then tossed. I also try my best to remove it as tho I am going to re-use it myself.
If ya see something you like, pipe up, or pipe down. :hello2: Go measure them springs! Mine were 17-1/8" on the floor.
Thats about 11-1/4 Full Coils. Bill in TR, Wi.
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I don't need the master cylinder right now, so it is yours John if Bill wants to sell it.
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I don't need the master cylinder right now, so it is yours John if Bill wants to sell it.
Brian ,
I don't need it right now either so ill get it and just put it in my inventory , that way if the need does come up we both know where there is one .
Thanks
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Brand new Moog springs aren't that expensive, usually under $60 shipped from Amazon or eBay. I bought the 6033 for my 66 GS on a Amazon price dip for $44.50 shipped. They're a perfect match to stock 1966 GS specs.
6033 Specs are 0.660" wire diameter and 16.4" free length. They're designed to support 2005 lbs at 11" installed height.
The Moog catalog shows #5230 for 1964 and #5246 for 1965 Special/Skylark. No listings for 65-7 GS tho.
5230 uses 0.610" wire, free length is 18.12". They're designed to support 1884 lbs at 11" installed height.
5246 is 0.630 wire and free length is 17.3". They're designed to support 1872 lbs at 11" installed height.
What kind of ride quality and ride height are you looking for? Large diameter wire will give you a firmer ride, and small diameter will deflect more over bumps and during hard cornering.
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I also have two original master cylinders from 65 Skylarks. So are available if someone needs one in the future. After you get Bill's, of course.
FYI,
Chuck
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Everyone keep in mind that the manual brake master cylinder is different from the power brake master cylinder. The manual ones are fairly easy to find. The power brake masters are the ones that are difficult to locate.
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That's good to know Brian. I have one of each.
Chuck
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Hey Brian... So do the power MC's take the 1-1/8" piston? Reservoir size equal? I just priced one off the shelf at Crack Auto in town here and they pulled the number without even a flinch. Theres new and remanned. Anything in particular I need to look for?
Howdy Walt... I havent MIC'd the wire size yet, but the free length is almost right on 17-1/8 (17-.125) laying on the floor. I would hafta guess theyve sagged a bit after sitting for 30+ years. I do want a good foundation for the 455, and a bit firmer of a ride, and a fairly stock attitude with some radial T/A's on all 4. The motor is all cast iron with PS and brakes. I couldnt measure the ride height (at what points anyway??) when the V6 was still onboard, with F78 -14s and half flat. I just tore into it. This is probably gonna entail some experimentation, unless anyone has gone this route and can guide me. Im not affraid to ask for help. I hope that shows in my posts LOL... Bill
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I hope we are talking about the 64-65 MCs. Those are the single pots. The 67s with the duals show the same part numbers for front drums... power or Armstrongs'. But then we get into Delco or Bendix stuff; Kripes... ws
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The springs from my 65 GS (with heavy 401 V8) measure about 16" long (one is 15 3/4) with wire diameter of 0.68". Picture attached.
Chuck
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The single master cylinder for 64-66 is different between PB and manual. The difference is the piston on the manual version is different because it has the push rod and shackle assembly made into it. It also does not have a bleeder jet on it.
The PB master cylinder just has a hole in the back of the piston for the pushrod in the booster to fit into. It also has a bleeder jet on the front of the casting.
The bore/piston size is the same on both and the cap/retaining bail is also the same.
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So, I am finding this pretty informative, both from a restoration perspective, and one from an ex-kid that used to do this stuff 45 years ago like it was nothing, with very limited availability on parts. That second part was due to funding LOL and very few used parts that were only a few years old. New was outa the question back then.
So by Walts numbers, the springs were listed as having a wire dia. of .610, .630, and .680 with a relaxed length of 16.40 inches to 18.12" respectively.
Chucks OEM springs come in at a .680" wire and yet only <16.00" (tired) free length.
Now is my dilemma; Where is the ride height measured from? The muffler to ground, or oil pan, or front crossmember? The 401/425 nailheads were heavier no doubt than the lightweight younger brother Gen II BBBs.
From V8..
To get an accurate quote on freight for a BUICK 455 complete engine , exhaust etc, and TH 400 trans, weighs 1000 lbs.
I am guessing the 4 speed fully dressed about the same + or -.
At any "rate", no pun intended, can some one help me with my arithmetic? It took me 4 years to flunk algebra, yet had a successful career starting as a draftsman, and finally a life time career as a power plant engineer. Hmm...
I am leaning towards the 18.125" length jobs strictly from a "stance perspective" including tire clearance issues and the fact that the "Special" was suffering from saggy BBBoobs with a 3/4 size V6 and old age. A new bra sure couldnt hurt eh?? ws
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.... can some one help me with my arithmetic? It took me 4 years to flunk algebra, yet had a successful career starting as a draftsman, and finally a life time career as a power plant engineer. Hmm...
I am leaning towards the 18.125" length jobs ....... ws
Wes, I always enjoy your posts! You have a great way of adding humor to the day!
Now for the serious stuff....
The 18.125" free length isn't the only critical spec, the spring rate needs to be considered.
This explanation is over simplified, not exactly accurate, but will get the point across.
I'll use the Moog 5230 (Special) and 6033 (GS) springs as examples.
1) The Moog 5230 has a RATE of 264 lbs/inch and a free length of 18.12".
It's designed to support 1884 lbs to produce an installed height of 11" for the spring.
You can compute ballpark height by dividing weight (1884) by rate (264) to determine how much it will compress:
1884/264= 7.136" of compression.
Subtract that amount from the free length (18.12") to get installed height of the spring:
18.12"- 7.136"= 10.984"
2)Compare to the Moog 6033 spring for the GS
Rate= 369 lbs/inch
Free length= 16.4"
Designed weight for 11" installed= 2005 lbs....
2005 lbs/369 rate = 5.43" of compression.
Subtract from the free length=
16.4" - 5.43" = 10.97" installed height of the spring.
Swap the weights so you have GS weight on a base Special spring and vice-versa:
2005 lbs/264 rate= 7.59" of compression
18.12" free length - 7.59" compression = 10.53"
and vice-versa, Special weight on a GS spring):
1884 lbs/369 rate= 5.106" of compression
16.4" free length - 5.106" = 11.29" when installed.
This shows a difference of 0.76" in installed height between big block on small block springs and vice versa.
RIDE HEIGHT DIFFERENCE will be more due to geometry issues..... the spring (installed height) is inboard of the wheel. The wheel is outboard of the spring, so the change will be more.... a SWAG puts it at about double....so figure a 1.5" difference in ride height between the two spring/weight combos.
Laura at Springs n Things could calculate it exactly for you, or maybe there's an online calculator somewhere.
With all that said, I put some worn GS springs in my Special with 300 and 5 speed and the ride height was just about perfect. I'd give Chuck's springs a try.
And remember tire size affects ride height and stance!
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Who the heck is WES??? A typo Im sure! :icon_salut:
I really should just buy new ones,; I have talked to Laura and she sent me a quote. Short of plain ol' experimentation, not sure with tires etc, where itll end up. One thing is for sure, canging springs used to scare me, and ive done a few, but this go around, breaking the ball joint outa the taper (the worst part with a pickle fork) was a breeze going by the book. A few whacks with a ball penis hammer and they popped right out. Whoda' thunk?? The old fork deal used to tear the rubber seals on the joints and henceforth, ruin them.
So, Im looking at tires all the way around. Right now, theres original F78/14s bias ply tires. Close to being OEM Im sure. So without measuring, Im guessing at a 14X6 rim? I dont mind the 14s along with poverty caps on black or blue wheels. The backs sure seem to have a ton of room. The 64 has a narrow rear end (about 2" skinnier?) which gives an inch on each side. Back in the old days, a G70x14 did the trick, but Id like to go a little taller front and back.
Sooo. Out in the shop today, putzed around trying to clean the front frame up and ended up with a cloud of orange dust. Thats from a die grinder with a wire wheel. Unacceptable! Got a pan on the floor and soaked it all with #2 fuel oil for an overnight soaking. The crud should clean up with a hand wire brush and some rusty metal primer. Did the 72 XGS like that and it still looks swell after 4 years.
So the big question for the day (and guessing isnt fair!) is how to tighten up the glove box lock assembly into the dash. Mine was loose, and taking it out netted me about 4 sub assemblies. The lock part has a real shallow anti rotation keyway into the sheet metal. The escutcheon ring screws into that from the outside. Finger tight isnt enough. So is there a tool for that ring? I hate to use pliers. The best way I can describe the tool would be a tamper proof 1/2 allen wrench. The wall has to be super thin to clear the cylinder, and the ring has an inside hex.
Walt, make a sign of the cross and help me out with this puhleez! There is absolutely no mention of the lock in the shop manual. I read it page by page today! :angel4: BILL ! :cheers2:
BTW... the spring wire on the V6 springs is .620" and 11 full coils @ 17-1/8" free standing. So Chuck, whats the deal on the GS springs?? ws
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Hey Wes, :angel4: I might have some springs too. If I do I could drop them off in Green Bay sometime.
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Dear Bill, Jim, and mid-60s Buick owners with a taste for history and performance,
Who the heck is WES??? A typo Im sure! :icon_salut:
What do ya' mean? :icon_scratch: You mean you have never heard of (or heard music by) Wes Montgomery? :hello2:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wes_Montgomery (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wes_Montgomery)
Certainly one of the most influential jazz guitarists of the 1960s. (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/rocker.gif)
So, Im looking at tires all the way around. Right now, theres original F78/14s bias ply tires. Close to being OEM Im sure. So without measuring, Im guessing at a 14X6 rim? I dont mind the 14s along with poverty caps on black or blue wheels. The backs sure seem to have a ton of room. The 64 has a narrow rear end (about 2" skinnier?) which gives an inch on each side. Back in the old days, a G70x14 did the trick, but Id like to go a little taller front and back.
Okay 14" rims will give you a much more original look, but that 455 won't exactly pass for originality so why limit yourself to relatively modest tires? My wagon is finally on 15" rims and much fatter tires. Perhaps I'm just confused, :icon_scratch: but for the power and torque of a big-block, I thought getting as fat tires as possible maximized the fun. (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/car_3gears.gif)
Could you perhaps please elucidate? (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/scholarly_teacher.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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So Chuck, whats the deal on the GS springs?? ws
Hi Bill,
You can have the springs if you'll pay to ship them. I'll check them out over the weekend to see if they'll fit in a flat rate box. Pretty heavy, but also pretty indestructible! I'll be gone tomorrow, but will get back to you in a couple of days on whether they can ship flat rate.
A good (if cold) weekend to all!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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My fellow Buick sesquipedalians... Its always been my modest attempt to eschew obfuscation, but being on a modest fixed income, the objective of putting this guy together is provided I adhere to a somewhat modicum of a low budget. Right now, the labor is cheap, for me anyway, but the machine shop is gonna kill that budget and I still need to acquire a flywheel. That alone is gonna set me back a minimum of 300.00 plus the truck.
The days of going into a shop and saying "Ill take 4 of these mounted and balanced" are gone. Ill even consider good used skins off of CL; as long as they're not 28's LOL... The final product will probably make its initial appearance in an original 1964 patina. Pop the hood and its gonna provide a substantial WOW factor. Follow along as we progress through the odyssey. 2230hrs and its bedtime, and MINUS 8 right now and forecast for worse tomorrow. Sleep tight and stay warm! WeS :hello:
Thanks for the offer Chuck... shipping is a given, and I hope I can return the favor!
Bill Stephan 2327 9th st. Two Rivers, Wi. 54241
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Up at 0445hrs and the temp has plummeted to a minus 16 ! Good day to do Buick work INSIDE. So off to a few hours of searching for parts; this is my quality time LOL. Yooz guys enjoy yer Saturday! ws
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Up at 0445hrs and the temp has plummeted to a minus 16 ! Good day to do Buick work INSIDE. So off to a few hours of searching for parts; this is my quality time LOL. Yooz guys enjoy yer Saturday! ws
That new 100K furnace might have a struggle in that kind of winter wonderland. For what it’s worth GB is at minus 22 at 0730.
Dan
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That new atom smasher has been able to keep up so far... shop is totally insulated and even have a thermopane window facing east. The rafters are open and insulated to the peak with a 48 inch Hunter fan blowing down (for the winter) circulating the air. Maybe next year ductwork; just ran outa time this year. I let that heat run for an hour and its a nice 70F when I get back out. The T stats on an outside wall (no choice there) and I find having to set it back to about 67 when Im working under the fan is a happy medium. ws
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With the progress you?re making this might be ready for a couple days on the Power Tour.
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Still have the 72 XGS with A/C... whats the itinerary??? ws
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Finally got tired of looking at rusty stuff and got down to some priming today. Rustoleo rusty metal primer does the trick. Thinned it a little so it penetrates and creeps. Gonna do the bottom side tomorrow. At least it looks like progress.
Started washing some parts yesterday too. Got the belhousing cleaned and painted with "Bright Zinc" used for chain link fences. Nice looking metal flake, then about 3-4 coats of clear on that. Left the shop for the day so the stuff can dry undisturbed. The brake booster was galvanized as well, not cadmium plated. It looked "OK", but a buzz with the wire wheel took 99% of that off and rather not having it rust up again, or look like it was wheeled and cleared, I did that with the zinc too. Turned out pretty well.
Having a nice hearty beef stew for dinner to take the chill off. MMMM... ws
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Still have the 72 XGS with A/C... whats the itinerary??? ws
See the 2019 Power Tour thread under events for where we will be. Hope you can join us.
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Finally figgered out the events schedule and the HRPT... I wish it were gonna be making a pass up this way! Thats right around the time I get my boat settled in for summer... all 2 months of it here LOL... So does everyone from up this way make the drive to Indy then to Ohiya? ws
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Dear Bill, Jim, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick owners willing to think outside the box,
I've been curious about this post and I can't find an easy answer - so I'll ask!
So, Im looking at tires all the way around. Right now, theres original F78/14s bias ply tires. Close to being OEM Im sure. So without measuring, Im guessing at a 14X6 rim? I dont mind the 14s along with poverty caps on black or blue wheels.
. . . .
So suppose you wanted to make a really stealthy Buick sleeper and wanted to us the original poverty caps on steel wheels, but wanted 15" for a larger tire - is there any way to do that?
I did some quick searches, but nobody seems to make reproduction "plain jane" 15" steel wheels that you could paint to look like a 1960s car. Are there steel wheels from donor cars that are 15" but would fit on our Buicks?
Like I said, just curious but I would be interested in knowing the answer one way or the other . .
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Im at a crossroad, and not sure which way to go... Im kinda partial, due to the "era" of the Special, and kinda building it like an early Daytona style car with short tires, level, and black wheels. Well, ad poverty caps for dress-up anyway. Theres the pro-stock look, and of course, the gasser look.
They all have something to say. I think for now due to budget constraints, Im gonna have to stick with the 14's with some decent skins, unless something really nice comes up for a set of 4 with tires; and that does happen. I search all the time. I am always thinking outside the box. I justwant to get this guy back on the road and pull a blast! :glasses9: ws
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.... Are there steel wheels from donor cars that are 15" but would fit on our Buicks?....
Sure! There was a list on V8 of which later cars had 15" x 8" plain steel wheels. 15 x 7 was much more common.
Summit has 15" steel wheels for about $30 each. Would give it a circle car look.
Or just hit the junkyards and see what you can find. There were lots of styled steel wheels used thru the 1980's that would fit.
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Dear Bill, Walt, and mid-60s Buick owners curious about different looks,
.... Are there steel wheels from donor cars that are 15" but would fit on our Buicks?....
Sure! There was a list on V8 of which later cars had 15" x 8" plain steel wheels. 15 x 7 was much more common.
Summit has 15" steel wheels for about $30 each. Would give it a circle car look.
Or just hit the junkyards and see what you can find. There were lots of styled steel wheels used thru the 1980's that would fit.
Thanks! It is one more bit of info to stick into my thinking cap! While I know an awful lot about a particular rascally Buick wagon, there is plenty I can learn about the larger Buick world!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Looks like I hafta play the race card. Drag race that is! LOL... May switch over to Chevy rally wheels. A complete set of 5 wheels with caps and rings for 200.00 in better than driver quality. If I dont like them, I should be able to swap them around a little bit. So Im a sheeny! These are 15 X 7 and an FW code. Just a slight upgrade from a black wheel with out getting too ostentatious.
These can get the treatment and cure before mounting tires. I already have two 15" BFG / TA's from the 72 to burn up. ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who are fussy about "wheel well treatments," . . .
Looks like I hafta play the race card. Drag race that is! LOL... May switch over to Chevy rally wheels. A complete set of 5 wheels with caps and rings for 200.00 in better than driver quality.
. . .
These are 15 X 7 and an FW code. Just a slight upgrade from a black wheel with out getting too ostentatious.
Sounds great! 15" X 7" will give you a lot more rubber to put on the road! Alas in your pictures they are a bit dark. Could you try taking a close-up so we can get a better idea of how they might look like?
These can get the treatment and cure before mounting tires. I already have two 15" BFG / TA's from the 72 to burn up. ws
Sounds good! My wagon also has B.F Goodrich Radial TAs Definitely a classic car tire of choice!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Ive had nothing but good luck with BFG's. If these wheels happen, do i go with a 230R65 X 15 on the front and a 255R65 X 15 on the back? theres plenty of wheel well clearance back there. Heck, theres even a complete unit for a spare. Now onto what color for the rims? ws
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.... 230R65 X 15 on the front and a 255R65 X 15 on the back? .....
EDIT..... I use the 60 series on my 66's. 235 front, 255 rear.
Cooper Cobras are a quality tire which don't cost as much as the BFG's.
Keep an eye on DiscountTireDirect, both on their webpage and their eBay store. They often have some great promo deals or rebates.
Buick used a chev-rally type wheel on the 67's, with a Buick center hat. The hats are usually pricey if'n you can find them.
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I haven't been on here for a few days. Bill and I were talking last night about the wheels and all. I can see now that I will have to "adjust" the budget for his needs. I fully support his projects. Keeps him home and happy. Plus I get to ride in cool cars next to him. And this year I get to show the '72. Provided the Special is ready. Which I am sure it will be....ppat yachtsmanbill's other half.
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Thats my GIRL!
Good morning Edouard and fellow Buick owners who dislike pushing Buicks uphill with a flat tire... Im sorry about the pic quality on the wheels; thats a C&P from the CL ad. Some people havent realized that this is the 90's! Photography has never been easier! If you double click on the pic, youll get a giant print that you can scroll around on. One was pasted in the ad as a thumbnail; well, maybe a pinky shot. Theres 5 complete wheels and 2 spare trim rings included. Sooo... argent silver or a really fine gloss jet black from a boat job I did? I mean like MIRROR black chrome. Skulls or dice for valve stem caps LOL???
So will the 255's look OK on the skinny wheels? Ive seen some 10" wide wire wheels at shows with a skinny 78 series tire on them and the sidewall look like theyd rub the ground (or roll of the rim!) on a hard turn.
Ive also noticed the $$$ on the Buick Center caps. These may bet the Willy treatment with a set of either aluminum or SS cover up rings over the CMD on the caps... have lathe will travel...
My 72 with Cragars and T/A's. The rears are I believe 8 inches wide on the rimmage. ws
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The Cooper Cobras from Discount Tire Direct are currently $405 on eBay for a set of four..... 2 x 235/60-15 and 2x 255/60-15.
In the past they've had a sales promo for $100 off a purchase of $400 or more (= $306). Or wait for a 15% off eBay promotion (= $345).
Or just keep your eyes open for something used.
The 255/60-15's fit well on a 15 x 7 rim.
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Thanks Walt! Up here I use FleetFarm for tires and batteries. Usually in the spring theres a tire promo with 20% off with a free install and balance. I picked up 2 BFGs 255's a few years ago and kept the take offs. They were on the front and one was slightly cupped but very serviceable.
On another note; On V8 today, Hector was selling some F41 frame stiffeners. Are they worth modifying or should I make my own? These run from the rear crossmember to the the lower control arms' mount. ws
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The 68/72 ones are easy to shorten to work on 64/67. I did this for my 66. You can also purchase aftermarket ones, from Ames for the early cars.
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Frame stiffeners are different between 64-67 and 68-72.
Repos start at around $70. HD aftermarket ones are $130.
You could likely fab something up.
Here's the repo and the HD ones:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-67-rear-control-reinforcement-frame-stiffeners-Chevy-Pontiac-GTO-Chevelle-442/263099172369?hash=item3d41eec611:g:hLUAAOSwnHZYg96L:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true (https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-67-rear-control-reinforcement-frame-stiffeners-Chevy-Pontiac-GTO-Chevelle-442/263099172369?hash=item3d41eec611:g:hLUAAOSwnHZYg96L:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UMI-Performance-64-67-GM-A-Body-Chevelle-Lemans-GTO-Rear-Control-Arms-Braces/200346336092?epid=1526274965&hash=item2ea5927b5c:g:xuUAAOSw8d9UwUdr:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true (https://www.ebay.com/itm/UMI-Performance-64-67-GM-A-Body-Chevelle-Lemans-GTO-Rear-Control-Arms-Braces/200346336092?epid=1526274965&hash=item2ea5927b5c:g:xuUAAOSw8d9UwUdr:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true)
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So off the top of your head(s), are the 64's rear crossmember indented to fit these bars, or will it be a flat mount? I havent even been back that far yet; Thats the forbidden zone LOL, so Ill hafta see whats up when I get back there... ws
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Hard to beat Cragars on a vintage car. Usually used ones out there too to save money.
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Frame stiffeners are different between 64-67 and 68-72.
Repos start at around $70. HD aftermarket ones are $130.
You could likely fab something up.
Here's the repo and the HD ones:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-67-rear-control-reinforcement-frame-stiffeners-Chevy-Pontiac-GTO-Chevelle-442/263099172369?hash=item3d41eec611:g:hLUAAOSwnHZYg96L:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true (https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-67-rear-control-reinforcement-frame-stiffeners-Chevy-Pontiac-GTO-Chevelle-442/263099172369?hash=item3d41eec611:g:hLUAAOSwnHZYg96L:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UMI-Performance-64-67-GM-A-Body-Chevelle-Lemans-GTO-Rear-Control-Arms-Braces/200346336092?epid=1526274965&hash=item2ea5927b5c:g:xuUAAOSw8d9UwUdr:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true (https://www.ebay.com/itm/UMI-Performance-64-67-GM-A-Body-Chevelle-Lemans-GTO-Rear-Control-Arms-Braces/200346336092?epid=1526274965&hash=item2ea5927b5c:g:xuUAAOSw8d9UwUdr:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true)
That suddenly seems to be a must have add on for the yellow car. I just ordered a set.
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Here's how the stiffeners from the '68 and up cars was shortened and redrilled, as suggested by Bill S. And by Brian back in this 2016 thread: http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2687.msg17077.html#msg17077 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2687.msg17077.html#msg17077)
A picture is attached of the ones that I modified and installed on my car.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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And the repos on my 66. Note how they are formed to give some muffler clearance.
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Yep, more muffler clearance with the repops. Attached picture shows clearance with the modified originals. They clear, but with less room to spare.
Chuck
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Strain, strain, strain, then a big Ahhhh! What a relief LOL. After playing ring around the Rosie for the last 2 months, I bit the bullet and ordered a brand new billet fly wheel. I manned up and called the mfgr. direct and got the 289.00 for 248.00 with free shipping. What a deal! These guys make the wheels that everyone sells.
Picking up the 15" rally wheels Saturday and some other stuff due here when the USPS defrosts (LOL), and the best part? NO JURY DUTY tomorrow or Monday. They finally caught up with me after 45 years. Just hope I dont hafta sit fer a hangin' offence! ws
https://americanpowertrain.com/
BIG Valentines day sale going on. Ask for Josh and tell him I sent ya!
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com fans of buying stuff!! :hello2:
Strain, strain, strain, then a big Ahhhh! What a relief LOL. After playing ring around the Rosie for the last 2 months, I bit the bullet and ordered a brand new billet fly wheel.
Pictures please!! We love stuff that is nice and shiny! :love4:
Picking up the 15" rally wheels Saturday and some other stuff due here when the USPS defrosts
Diito!! :hello2:
NO JURY DUTY tomorrow or Monday. They finally caught up with me after 45 years. Just hope I dont hafta sit fer a hangin' offence!
Bummer dude! :BangHead: Indeed whatever it is I hope it ends quickly for you - you have many more important Buick things to do! :angel4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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You guys know that pics are a must, or it didnt happen LOL. Gonna ad some stuff to a parts wanted list. Please check that out too. This is becoming a labor of love! Bill
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Bill, you have an email on the springs. Sent today!
Chuck
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PM sent back Chuck! Thanks!!
So the pieces are falling together now! Temps skyrocketed to +14 here today, so it was T-shirtin' out in the shop. Cleaned a bunch of stuff, primed it and looked at brake line stuff. The whole 64 system is 3/16" with a single 1/4" from the MC. Hmmm. I just recieved a brake line junction from PrarieCanary on V8 and that double system is 3/16 to the front wheels, 1/4" to the back axle hose, and a double 5/16 from the MC to the block. I guess a new 1/4" pipe all the way back is in order. Probably a 3/8 fuel line while Im in there...
The crossmember was undercoated in 1964, so that took some MAPP torchin' to warm it up and scrape it clean before hitting it with the wheel. Got about 1/4 coffee can of crud off of it. The clutch fork is gonna look like new, especially with the new rubber boot wrapped around it coming next week.
Now we are gonna see if "somebody" is paying attention here. I was looking through some old classifieds and this guy needs some unobtanium pieces which I just happen to have. Since we cant post pics on PMs, Ill post them here. Next best thing to NOS! ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
So the pieces are falling together now! Temps skyrocketed to +14 here today, so it was T-shirtin' out in the shop.
. . . .
Oh my! If you are in a T-shirt when it is 14? F, what are going to be wearing (or not) when it gets really hot next summer!! :laughing7:
. . . . .
The crossmember was undercoated in 1964, so that took some MAPP torchin' to warm it up and scrape it clean before hitting it with the wheel. Got about 1/4 coffee can of crud off of it.
. . . . .
I dunno' I know that coffee is expensive these days, but are you sure you want to put that stuff in your coffee maker? :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Gotta use a percolator pot pal! No grounds haha... Summer time means a la nuda! ws
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Brake lines.... the front-rear line was 3/16" on 64-66 and 1/4" on 67. I can't explain why they did this as it doesn't change the physics of it....same pressure, same amount of fluid needed to activate rear brake cylinders, etc. Maybe the larger diameter and volume was less likely to clog from built-up contaminants. Whatever, they did it.
The rear brake hose is different between the early/late so be prepared. IIRC, one has a tee at the end for the two lines on the rear, the other screws into a brass tee.
When I did my red 66, I added front discs and a roll control. I used the original distribution block for the front, and plumbed the rear into the new prop valve..
Bent my own lines, being conscious to avoid and up/down loops that might trap air. Here's a pic:
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I sure am glad to see that pointy sheet metal screw on that column clamp :hello2:; that had me wondering here! Ive got some scrapes on the back of the hands from that one!
So it looks like a trip to NAPA (maybe I can get game boy to look me up some fittings!) and try to get some inverted flare reducer bushings. I can handle the 3/16 all the way back with the standard sized hose at the diff. It would be just my luck that the frame mount would be a different sized hole! Maybe the MC will have a double sized outlet (1/4 & 5/16) outputs to match the block.
I know my '72 runs a 1/4 to the rear, so there must be 2 different hoses for the years back there as well. I need a few bleeders as well. The 2 fronts came out OK yesterday but were plugged solid. I did round one off a tad; it was pucker string tight, and I didnt have a bleeder wrench. DANG! Put them back in loose, with a smidge of never seize on the threads, but thinking Ill replace them both today. The new (not RB) MC and hoses should be here any day too. Lousy weather and PMS counter girl at Crackauto in town.
I just grabbed this, but its what i need to accomplish... from a GTO forum...Its def from In Line Tube but is almost exactly like the iron unit off the 67. ws
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When making your own lines, you'll discover some of the tube nuts are weird sizes. For example, a 3/16" line could have a tube nut with the standard 3/8" threads, or a larger 1/2" threads. I don't think NAPA carries the odd sizes but a specialty supplier such as Inline of Right stuff will. Here's a page from the Right Stuff Catalog
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/pdf/RightStuffCatalog/RS%20Catalog%20FINAL.pdf (https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/pdf/RightStuffCatalog/RS%20Catalog%20FINAL.pdf)
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Hey Walt,
Is that a polite way of saying "Don't use adapters!". Thanks for posting that I did not know they were available. I had to scrounge some used ones,blast them and reuse them on my friends chevelle(sorry to use the c word)....Hopefully this will save others some time and avoid the dreaded pile of fittings.This 64 project is moving right along and makes me think I should be working on mine. Dan
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Haha! Adapters are ok, but there's another seal that can leak, or it adds extra hardware that may not fit as well or become unsightly if you overdo it. And not everyone wants to do their own tubing flares.
I like to make my own lines.... buy a 25 ft roll of tubing from NAPA and either bend to match originals, or custom bend to fit. You can even buy the spring type tubing guards like the originals. I haven't ventured into using stainless tubing yet.... that's a challenge to flare properly.
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Thanks for that link Walt! I knew I had it somewhere but havent seen it for a while. Sucks when stuff gets virtually lost eh? Its now in my faves under the "BUICK" file haha. Right now I am gonna source some of the piping locally (saves shipping) and since I bend my own (nice set of Parker-Hannifin benders) I can save on shipping, plus give some locals the business. Lord knows we need that here! The job wont be too bad except for under the car,and even then its due for cleaning and paint. Maybe the new MC and hoses will get here Monday. Bad round of weather held them up. That and the PMS gal at the motor parts store put the "curse" on them LOL.
So today I picked up my wheels. The guy wouldnt budge off of the 200.00. He's got a badass 1969 Firebird, redone in all 1969 Camaro sheetmetal with a 496 and Tremec 5 speed with a 411 12 bolt. All in BLACK and looks great! Pretty good for a 72 YO guy! I guess theres still hope afterall. I need to finish the Special before I kack. Wheels are above driver quality maybe 20%. Not perfect, but I am my own worst judge. Theyll do me fine. They were on the 'bird so the guy knew them to be straight. The trip to GB was 40 miles in country fog from the warm (30F) air on the frozen tundra. Had <1 mile viz.
Got home and unloaded the silver bullet and put all the boxed wheels into the shop. 5 wheels, 5 caps, and 8 rings. Mail came in and Pat brought out a new rubber for us to enjoy. Slipped right into the hole and was securely fit by the rim (Hmmm!) Just had a flashback LOL.
Also unloaded a pair of nice rear springs and boxed arms. Thanks Steve... I havent forgot ya! Gonna hoot it, shoot it, and goot it tomorrow. Theres places to go and people, er parts, to paint.
Stopped by harbor fright and they replaced my LED flashlight. Brighter than heck with magnets all over the place on it for hands free operation...
So for the imaginationarilly impaired, I pulled out the ol' Brownie for some pics. ws
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Just a few more pics to bore yooz guys. The Specials' alternator is a 37 amp job. I thought it was a 42A unit. Anyone need it? Shes a little stiff from sitting for 40 years, but will probably spin right up!
Primer dried nice on the crossmember. DO NOT TOUCH until dry is my motto. The original bell housing is a testament to time as well. The paint is Bright Zinc spray with Clear (3-4 coats) to cover it... no fingerprints! ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick exterior decorators, . . .
So today I picked up my wheels. The guy wouldnt budge off of the 200.00.
. . . .
Okay so they look very nice, but there is that distasteful matter of that "Chevrolet Motor Division" on the caps. So are you planning to paint out this unfortunate detail? I might be a bit hard to hide since the lettering is pressed into the cap.
Stopped by harbor fright and they replaced my LED flashlight. Brighter than heck with magnets all over the place on it for hands free operation...
Yet LED lights are amazing - perhaps a bit too much so. Definitely don't look directly into the LEDs as they will hurt your eyes!
So for the imaginationarilly impaired, I pulled out the ol' Brownie for some pics. ws
I'm not imaginationarilly impaired, I'm just addicted to pics! . . . . :laughing7:
Thanks for taking the time to pull out the Brownie! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The film processing is the killer... That light has a bunch of magets on it and swivels all over the place. Its great (and cool!) for working in close quarters as in under the dash or around a leaking FUEL PUMP. :tard: :wave: :angryfire:
So then while perusing the forbidden zone i saw these...Just something stupid for the retro look. These are stainless steel, but Ive seen them in ABS chrome plastic too. Just a brain fart; smooth and slow >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ws
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-New-Chevy-GM-3-Bar-Spinners-Rally-Wheel-Center-Hub-Caps-Rim-5-Lug-Nut-Covers/380459950185?fits=Year%3A1971%7CMake%3AChevrolet%7CModel%3AMonte+Carlo%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A6.6L%7CTrim%3ABase%7CEngine%3A6.6L+400Cu.+In.+V8+GAS+Naturally+Aspirated (https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-New-Chevy-GM-3-Bar-Spinners-Rally-Wheel-Center-Hub-Caps-Rim-5-Lug-Nut-Covers/380459950185?fits=Year%3A1971%7CMake%3AChevrolet%7CModel%3AMonte+Carlo%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A6.6L%7CTrim%3ABase%7CEngine%3A6.6L+400Cu.+In.+V8+GAS+Naturally+Aspirated)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
The film processing is the killer... That light has a bunch of magets on it and swivels all over the place. Its great (and cool!) for working in close quarters as in under the dash or around a leaking FUEL PUMP. :tard: :wave: :angryfire:
LED lights are another one of those inventions that I cannot imagine how I lived without them. I have at least 3 different models. One design that is particularly handy for the overall view are the ones with hooks that grab the edge of the hood and shine down. This picture shows one in action:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/ClassicandCustomAutomobiles/Car-Shows/2016-Orinda-Classic-Car-show/i-BsKxVCK/0/d179962a/XL/Biquette%20in%20middle%20of%20show%20-%20front%20-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/ClassicandCustomAutomobiles/Car-Shows/2016-Orinda-Classic-Car-show/i-BsKxVCK/A)
You can see at how well it lights up the posters taped to the underside of the hood. Alas, I do periodically manage to shine the LEDs in my eyes no matter how careful I am.
So then while perusing the forbidden zone i saw these...Just something stupid for the retro look. These are stainless steel, but Ive seen them in ABS chrome plastic too. Just a brain fart; smooth and slow >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ws
Well, that isn't saving you any money but it is really beautiful! No doubt that would make your 'Lark really look classy! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thinking of you today Edouard... got the old Panaflex 16mm going LOL. A few moments in the punishment room, or as they say in hockey, The penalty Box LOL... Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rNRcN_15Ng&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rNRcN_15Ng&feature=youtu.be)
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com cinematographers,
Thinking of you today Edouard... got the old Panaflex 16mm going LOL. A few moments in the punishment room, or as they say in hockey, The penalty Box LOL... Bill
Thanks for sharing! :hello2: Your car is in amazing shape for its age! It definitely deserves the sort of love you are giving it! :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Just dawned on me... its got a clock too! Its weird... theres these orange pointers that point to numbers; how do ya read this thing????
Picked up the new MC and front hoses today with 2 new bleeders. Crack Auto couldnt find them, and then produced a pair with the wrong threads! Went and saw game boy at NAPA, but he never heard of a bleeder wrench. I had to make one. Got the front underside all prepped and primed today with only 3 drops in the hair. Not bad! Just a bunch of little stuff after that...Got a surprise from the cobra guy LOL... Bill
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com fans of "ol' school!"
Just dawned on me... its got a clock too! Its weird... theres these orange pointers that point to numbers; how do ya read this thing????
Hey man, sometimes you just got to do it da' ol' fashioned way!
My wagon didn't come with a clock but I found one on eBay and had it converted to a quartz movement. It keeps very accurate time, but it sure is hard to read that tiny clock-face!
Did you have to paint the housing of the power brake booster housing or did it come in that color? I don't think I've ever seen that before, but it could just be me.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I was hoping the clock was a winder-upper! Not pulling the dash this time around, just getting up there to pull/change the speedo cable for a longer 4 speed cable. Pretty simple on this one. The 72 is an all day job to pull the dash out... AND hope nothing breaks on the way!
The power brake booster was originally galvanized, not cadmium plated. Pretty darn clean, but after some cursory attempts to get it back, the finish was gone. That's bright zinc cold galvanizing spray (like for chain link fences) with a bunch of clear gloss on top. Clear glossed the master cylinder and cap too. I did this 5 years ago on the 72 XGS and it still looks new!
If I repeat some pics, my apologies. They dont show when replying, so in order to not have 5 windows open at once, I just "post 'em as I see 'em". ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
You are as busy as a beaver!
The power brake booster was originally galvanized, not cadmium plated. Pretty darn clean, but after some cursory attempts to get it back, the finish was gone. That's bright zinc cold galvanizing spray (like for chain link fences) with a bunch of clear gloss on top. Clear glossed the master cylinder and cap too. I did this 5 years ago on the 72 XGS and it still looks new!
Okay now I understand! I definitely like cold galvanizing sprays. It can allow you to protect steel that otherwise would be really hard to protect.
Keep up the good work!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Just dawned on me... its got a clock too! Its weird... theres these orange pointers that point to numbers; how do ya read this thing???? LOL... Bill
That clock thing was part of an interior package, not standard equipment. The package also included the under dash courtesy lights and the day/night rear view mirror.
Loren
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Thats interesting Loren; I have the D/N mirror, clock and full carpeting, but zero courtesy lights (one dome light). The CL on the passenger side has the main loom run to that point, but no lamp, AND no door jamb switch either. Havent had my fat head up by the parking brake yet LOL. Theres also front seat belts with retractors and full floor 1964 Skylark logo rubber floor mats. Not handy-mats. The killer is the blue matching pedal pads and gas pedal; one didnt survive! One for the books?
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Bill,
All the 64 models had pedal pads that were color coordinated with the interior. My 64 Skylark has blue interior and has blue gas pedal and park brake pedal pad. Unfortunately, the clutch and brake pedal pads had been replaced with black ones long before I got the car, so I had to replace with the reproduction black ones. Would love to have a pair of original blue ones, but yours is the first ones I have ever seen!
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Yeah... I just wish the clutch pad wasnt so deteriorated. Maybe Grammaw was side stepping the clutch doing burnouts after church!
I doubt anything was gnawing on it... all the meeses were in the headliner and inside the bellhousing, but NOTHING even under the seats. Kinda an FM, ya know?? ws
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All the 64 models had pedal pads that were color coordinated with the interior.
Now I'm on a mission... ws
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Can we talk more about the seat belt instruction tags? How were they attached? What type of seat belts were they for?
Reproduced as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1962-1963-1964-1965-CHEVROLET-CORVETTE-SEAT-BELT-RETRACTOR-INSTRUCTIONS-TAG/361955706948?hash=item54463dc844:g:hisAAMXQvTlRgLgC:rk:28:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1962-1963-1964-1965-CHEVROLET-CORVETTE-SEAT-BELT-RETRACTOR-INSTRUCTIONS-TAG/361955706948?hash=item54463dc844:g:hisAAMXQvTlRgLgC:rk:28:pf:0)
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Dear Loren, Bill, Brian, Dan, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . . . . .
all the meeses were in the headliner . . . . .
The headliner in your car is in very good shape. My wagon's headliner is in slightly better shape, but there is a nasty tear near the tailgate. Sadly I know exactly why . . . . We were moving a fireplace insert from one house to another and I couldn't keep it from slipping while we were traveling downhill. It tore the very gash in question! Regretted it from that point forward and still do since I haven't gotten around to replacing the headliner yet!
Enjoy your project and your quest to stay in your "blue period. . . . "
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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All the 64 models had pedal pads that were color coordinated with the interior.
Now I'm on a mission... ws
I just sent these guys an email requesting a run of blue pedal pads for the 1964 year only Skylark(s). We'll see where this goes!
Feeling Blue Bill
Metro Moulded CB 99-D https://www.metrommp.com/pages/ContactUs.html (https://www.metrommp.com/pages/ContactUs.html)
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RE: seat belt tags. This very tag and the original plain steel wire twist tie (not coated) which I did manage to keep as well, was attached to the drivers side lap belt which was scrunched under the seat back along with the chrome buckle it was attached to. AFAIK, theres only D & P belts in this car. I havent been able to get the belts to adjust in the buckle yet. Even tho I dont use them (personal preference America!) (let those who ride decide) I would like to have them operational. I think the belts are just that stiff. They look like new and even the sewn in dated tags from the mfgr. are very legible. No pics this time, so ya know what that means! The retractors are meant to be fully extended and then clipped into the buckle. The retractors look pretty archaic. Haha.
Its pretty neat that they are re-popped, but heck, these are real. Not too many owners can say that. Beats the phony radio instructions on the knobs too! Just a novelty from the time capsule.
The headliner has about 8-10 smaller mouse holes Edouard. They are all emergency exits only at about the size of a U.S. 25 cent piece. Fortunately, the headliner kits for the basic "basket weave" pattern pressed into the vinyl (no holes) run about $75.00 with extra material for the vizors and sail panels. Its been a few decades since I did a headliner job, but thats on the long term agenda. The front and back windows will probably be addressed then as well. I a pretty sure all the STAYS are serviceable.
So guys, how am I doing here? V8 was cool doing the 72 XGS with a lot of input, but the old gents (read:Adults) with vintage Buicks seem to troll over here and I am good with that! Enthusiastic and willing to help. Reminds me of the MTFCA... Model T Ford Club of America. Most of those guys are antiques with no humor however! Thanks for putting up with me Loren! Afterall, I did get my first license in my moms' 1968 loaded Skylark. Please keep up with the ideal job yer doing. I run a small (very small) boat forum, so I know whats involved with all that as well. www.flybridge.proboards.com (http://www.flybridge.proboards.com)
So now (drum roll PUHLEEZ!!!) introducing the latest and greatest Christmas present Pat ever ever ever got me:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
So the pics post at the bottom. Today I spoke with Terrys' engine builders in Green Bay. They do all the Buick race stuff for the big players up this way. My 455 block and heads have been sitting at te other shop for 2+ weeks collecting dust. They do all the big diesel stuff so a 455 is small beans for them but they are 10 minutes away. The GB shop is an hour drive, but Terry told me that if I can get the stuff there today, they are doing several 455 boring jobs starting tomorrow. Ill probably get the stuff back in a week. AMEN, and better prices on the labor rate as well. Spent the morning hauling Pat and engine stuff all over the countryside. Then did Mexican for lunch and a nap when we got home. Was awakened by the drum roll....... ws
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Nice present!
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Terry’s built the 401 that’s in my convertible. Reasonable price, easy to work with and good folks.
Dan
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All the 64 models had pedal pads that were color coordinated with the interior.
Now I'm on a mission... ws
I just sent these guys an email requesting a run of blue pedal pads for the 1964 year only Skylark(s). We'll see where this goes!
Feeling Blue Bill
Metro Moulded CB 99-D [url]https://www.metrommp.com/pages/ContactUs.html[/url] ([url]https://www.metrommp.com/pages/ContactUs.html[/url])
If it helps with numbers, I am in for a set of blue pads for my 1964 pedal car!
(http://www.wootmonkey.com/_data/i/upload/2018/04/04/20180404190053-36a02f04-me.png)
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No worries Bill,enjoying your posts and progress.
Loren
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RE: seat belt tags. This very tag and the original plain steel wire twist tie (not coated) which I did manage to keep as well, was attached to the drivers side lap belt which was scrunched under the seat back along with the chrome buckle it was attached to. AFAIK, theres only D & P belts in this car. I havent been able to get the belts to adjust in the buckle yet. Even tho I dont use them (personal preference America!) (let those who ride decide) I would like to have them operational. I think the belts are just that stiff. They look like new and even the sewn in dated tags from the mfgr. are very legible. No pics this time, so ya know what that means! The retractors are meant to be fully extended and then clipped into the buckle. The retractors look pretty archaic. Haha.
Its pretty neat that they are re-popped, but heck, these are real. Not too many owners can say that. Beats the phony radio instructions on the knobs too! Just a novelty from the time capsule.
So was this tag only for seat belts without the "automatic" roll up retractor?
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Dear Bill, Jim, Dan, Michael, Loren, Dan, and 65GS.com "netizens," . . . .
The headliner has about 8-10 smaller mouse holes Edouard. They are all emergency exits only at about the size of a U.S. 25 cent piece. Fortunately, the headliner kits for the basic "basket weave" pattern pressed into the vinyl (no holes) run about $75.00 with extra material for the vizors and sail panels. Its been a few decades since I did a headliner job, but thats on the long term agenda. The front and back windows will probably be addressed then as well. I a pretty sure all the STAYS are serviceable.
I understand your point of view. Holes in the headliner don't impede driving the car. In my case there are some additional issues associated with taking care of the headliner. A station wagon has a very long steel roof that is very efficient at converting the sun's rays into heat. If I leave Biquette for any length of time parked in the sun, the car turns into a furnace. So I need to insulate with the best stuff I can find. I also have a few other projects that need to be resolved at the same time as the headliner. I'm hoping to camouflage a 3rd brake light into the back of the headliner pointing out the back window. Also I need to find a way to mount the rear speakers between the roof and the headliner.
So guys, how am I doing here? V8 was cool doing the 72 XGS with a lot of input, but the old gents (read:Adults) with vintage Buicks seem to troll over here and I am good with that! Enthusiastic and willing to help. Reminds me of the MTFCA... Model T Ford Club of America. Most of those guys are antiques with no humor however!
Forums seem to take on a radically different character depending on the number of postings. They need enough postings to keep people coming back, but not too many. V-8 Buick is simply a victim of its own success. It is extremely difficult to keep up with the titles of the postings. Can anybody actually read all the postings that occur daily? I've been a victim more than once of reading something too quickly and missing the point. So I keep a low profile over there as much to save time as anything else.
Thanks for putting up with me Loren! Afterall, I did get my first license in my moms' 1968 loaded Skylark.
I did pass my driver's test in a Buick - that's all we owned at the time! I think I took the test in our 1976 Skylark instead of Biquette. However, the first car I drove after getting a learner's permit was Biquette and the first thing I did was drive her up on the curb! :BangHead:
So now (drum roll PUHLEEZ!!!) introducing the latest and greatest Christmas present Pat ever ever ever got me:
Very nice! :angel4:
So the pics post at the bottom.
Thanks for the pictures of the new flywheel as well! :hello2:
Today I spoke with Terrys' engine builders in Green Bay. They do all the Buick race stuff for the big players up this way. My 455 block and heads have been sitting at te other shop for 2+ weeks collecting dust. They do all the big diesel stuff so a 455 is small beans for them but they are 10 minutes away. The GB shop is an hour drive, but Terry told me that if I can get the stuff there today, they are doing several 455 boring jobs starting tomorrow. Ill probably get the stuff back in a week. AMEN, and better prices on the labor rate as well.
I'll join in that recommendation. It may be a bit of a commute hassle, but I think you have more peace of mind knowing your engine is in the hands of a team very familiar with Buick engines.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I agree Edouard! I generally stick only to the "bench" re: in my comfort zone. Theres a lot of guys that google and paste answers and anyone can do that. I sometimes need answers about, lets say, a 1967 4 speed hump fitting, even roughly, the 64. Im pretty adept at making stuff work. Its not like some one took a wand and waved it and made it "happen".
Thats part of the impetus about making this work. Theres tons of stories in the naked city about my boat work and even my Model T speedster I built from bones before the XGS happened.
I like the gages in the 64 Mike; got some better pics and size etc?? ws
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Getting the geese all in a row...Maybe those are Skylarks?? Hmm... Im at the point of trying to find a bench seat floor hump for the 4 speed. I can probably make just about anything work. Anyone wanna venture out to their parts car with a sawzall? New ones are too much $$$. Besides, Im in Patina Mode LOL... Bill
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The 64-67 Chevelle shifter hump is a great repo of the 65-66 GS hump. About $45 if you shop around. The Chevelle shifter boot ($20) and retainer ring ($18) works nicely too and is actually correct for 65-67 GS (with console) but looks good without a console.
Ground Up has them at a decent price. Many of their Chev repos fit our Buicks, so look around and maybe take advantage of their 20% off sale.
www.ss396.com (http://www.ss396.com)
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Here's the repo sitting in the 66 GS vert project I bought last year. This car was a mess but I'm gonna give it a try! I put a good used floor in it and repo bucket seat tracks and shifter hump. I upgraded to a tig welder too. I should start a thread on it one of these days...
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https://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?query=rst&Screen=SEARCH&year=1964&car=chevelle&min=&max=&page=1&sort=relevancy&size=40&page=1 (https://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?query=rst&Screen=SEARCH&year=1964&car=chevelle&min=&max=&page=1&sort=relevancy&size=40&page=1)
This is their page. So the flat top one is NOT correct? Id like to cut the OEM rugs right up to th hole and finsh with a boot and ring. What about the square Hurst Comp + shifter handle? ws
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The flat top one is NOT correct. That is a Chevelle piece.
Dan
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The one I pictured fits Skylark GS with or without consolette. Use the carpet for an automatic.
The flat top one is Chevelle only.
The Hurst shifter sits a little further back than the original shifter, might have to mod the hump a little, not a big deal.
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Dear Bill, Walt, Dan, and mid-60s Buick interior decorators,
I like the gauges in the 64 Mike; got some better pics and size etc?? ws
You can't do that! Where will you put the center A/C duct? . . . :laughing7:
Are you referring to Michael's (TrunkMonkey) 64 'Lark? The photo in this posting?
http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,4251.msg31167.html#msg31167 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,4251.msg31167.html#msg31167)
I've forgotten, but I thought more than one person has reused the area above the radio for the gauges. Can anybody else chime in on examples? Certainly you can poke Michael and ask him how he did it! Here is his 65GS.com contact page:
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=985 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=985)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. So what are your thoughts with respect to air conditioning? If you put the gauges above, you certainly could go with an underdash unit and there are some reproduction underdash unites that look great. On the other hand, given your skills as finding barn stuff, maybe you could come up with an aftermarket unit for the 1960s and make that work!
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My moms' 64 had a dealer installed under the dash unit and it was cool (cold LOL). I went the whole restored and re-orificed unit on my 72 and blows cold air with the 134. I did all the install stuff but had problems with the POA valve. A guy on V8 re-orificed it and I vac'd the system but had the local guy charge it. They retrofit a lot of old cars... alsa, he has a dodge tho :dontknow:
I like Mikes gage deal... he'll be here tonight Im sure.
Gonna order that hump right now Walt! IT BETTER FIT haha...
So today the whole state was advised to stay home due to icing. Yeah, it was treacherous. I had to spread sand on the drive to the shop. it was BAD... So whatcha do on a ice day? Clean bolts, lotsa bolts. This is 4 hours worth on the wire wheel and a wash in the tank. Theres 3 more coffee cans to go plus assorted sundries. Also an hour cleaning off the bench in the new, 3 year old garage and finally put a shelf up. I felt like a barbarian; the table saw is packed away in the shop so I had to cut a 6 foot long 3/4 mahogany plank (!) with my skil saw.
Brian... take yer time on the box. You have bigger fish to fry! ws
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So I just ordered the hump, ring and boot. The hole is round in the boot and I have a Hurst shufter. Hmmm. Another modification. They got me tho... I thought it was free shipping but they hit me with 16.00+. They are sending me a feedback call, so Ill rag at them then LOL... ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
My moms' 64 had a dealer installed under the dash unit and it was cool (cold LOL).
Cool man! :glasses9: I remember as a kid looking longingly at the aftermarket air conditioner units that were for sale at the Sears auto shop during the early 1970s. However, Dad wasn't going spend money on such luxuries. So I had to wait almost 50 years before getting air conditioning in my trusty wagon!
I went the whole restored and re-orificed unit on my 72 and blows cold air with the 134. I did all the install stuff but had problems with the POA valve. A guy on V8 re-orificed it and I vac'd the system but had the local guy charge it. They retrofit a lot of old cars...
So I suppose with one classic Buick that has A/C you can live with your 64 without it.
I like Mikes gage deal... he'll be here tonight Im sure.
I do hope somebody will dig up a relevant thread. I don't think Michael was the first to put the gauges above the radio.
So today the whole state was advised to stay home due to icing. Yeah, it was treacherous.
Large parts of the country are unusually cold at the moment. We had snow on some of the higher peaks last week and Seattle is apparently in a real mess because of the snow. So be careful and safe!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Whadda ya nuts or sumptin? :hello2: Finished up cleaning all the hardware and some brackets (with paint) etc. :occasion14: This is all gonna make so much easier putting the Special all back together again. Probably get the engine back this next week I hope and can start on that project. ws
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So I just ordered the hump, ring and boot. The hole is round in the boot and I have a Hurst shufter.....
The hole will stretch. I've had that round hole boot on the Hurst shifter in my Special for over 10 years now.
There is a repo Olds 67-up boot the 68-72 GS guys use but it's $60 and so big it looks rather obnoxious.
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Thats a relief Walt! Thanks for the support!! I meant to send a KUDOs about yer floor job. It looks great. Im pretty fortunate that mine is 100% solid. I even saw the gas pedal ball mounting plate when underneath the other day; INTACT! Im gonna pull the seat and rugs out for the hump job and paint the floor while Im in there.
On another note, I sold some stuff to guys here off the Fireball V6. I promised to include the fasteners, which I think I neglected to send along with. All the bolts are cleaned now and if anyone needs/is missing the hardware, please speak up and theyll go out in a padded envelope ASAP. ON ME! Thats timing cover bolts, valve cover stuff and rocker shaft bolts. If I missed anything, Bark At Me LOL!!! Need sizes tho; the stuff is all on the bench. See pics! ws
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com railfans,
. . . .
See pics! ws
But, but, but . . . . . . Those are railroad pictures!
I had to look it up, the locomotive is one of the Union Pacific gas turbine designs that ran during the 1960s:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_GTELs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_GTELs)
Okay, okay, if you could get your Buick in front of that it sure would make for a period correct photos.
On the other hand if you are a serious fan of Union Pacific motive power, you might be drawn more to something like this!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_Big_Boy (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_Big_Boy)
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9b/UP4014%2C_4-8-8-4_%22Big_Boy%22_Ready_for_restoration.jpg/800px-UP4014%2C_4-8-8-4_%22Big_Boy%22_Ready_for_restoration.jpg) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_Big_Boy)
Union Pacific Big Boy #4014 is currently undergoing restoration with the hope of having it running for the 150 anniversary of the golden spike ceremony which connected the transcontinental railroads. The anniversary is coming up this May 10th! We'll see if the restoration shops can pull it off.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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My fellow Americans, who are about to embark on a great crusade...and happen to love trains while yer at it;
Pretty cool... That was the BIG BOY thats been stored since retired in Colton, Ca. before being transferred to Cheyenne, Wyoming. We have one in Green Bay thats static along with the Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower, a British loco that was lent to the GBRR (Great Britain Rail Road) for their 75th anniversary of the class's world record breaking 126 mph run a few years ago. It was returned to its original livery for the event.
Theres a ton of history behind this stuff which helped make the USA #1. Heres a little placard thats on the UP GT loco in Union, Il. The snow blower is a different unit.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_4014
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LNER_Class_A4_4496_Dwight_D_Eisenhower
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Bill & Edouard Thanks for the photos and the information about the trains, I enjoy anything relating to American transportation history, that's what made America great ! Cheers :cheers2: to all of the Great Americans that keep our country moving forward , Automotive, Aviation, Railroads, Maritime, & our dedicated American Truckers,
"We must look back before we can move forward" Tony
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Spoken like a True American! Same here; anything transportation, production machining , power plant design and operations, and the whole different skill set that young minds today cant appreciate what the building blocks were... ws
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Dear Bill, Tony, and mid-60s Buick owners who also have an itch for things on rails,
. . . . .
The snow blower is a different unit.
For shame! That sir is a rotary snow plow! :laughing7:
Here is the Wikipedia article about it:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_snowplow (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_snowplow)
Before I switched to modeling logging railroads I was modeling Southern Pacific and 'Espee' had quite a few of these machines to keep the mainline over the Sierra Nevadas open. So of course I had to model one of these! On the to-do list is to add a rotary snow plow to my logging line. One company actually cobbled one together from a old locomotive.
Southern Pacific is known to have creating one of the most unique locomotive designs in the world in their "Cab Forward" type:
https://www.steamlocomotive.com/locobase.php?country=USA&wheel=4-8-8-2&railroad=sp (https://www.steamlocomotive.com/locobase.php?country=USA&wheel=4-8-8-2&railroad=sp)
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/32/Southern_Pacific_4294%2C_a_cab-forward_steam_locomotive.jpg/800px-Southern_Pacific_4294%2C_a_cab-forward_steam_locomotive.jpg) (https://www.steamlocomotive.com/locobase.php?country=USA&wheel=4-8-8-2&railroad=sp)
These locomotives moved the cab to the front to reduce the problem of smoke interfering with the operating crews while going though all the tunnels and snow sheds of the Sierra Nevada mainline. Since these locomotives were burning fuel oil, there was no problem to simply pump the fuel to the other end of the locomotive. So the combustion chamber was right behind the cab as in conventional steam locomotives. 256 Cab Forward locomotives were built for Southern Pacific, but alas, only one survives as a static display: #4294. At least it is well cared for and has a place of honor in the Sacramento Railroad museum.
That's your United States railroad motive power lesson today!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. So how many times have I (and Biquette) gone to the Sacamento Railroad museum? More than I can possibly remember! :laughing7:
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Ill bet the engineers thought of that cab forward as a Godsend! No smoke and the fresh air in your face instead of cooking on top of the deck plates. Imagine running across the flats from Yuma to Temecula on a hot summer day? Whew! Burning more than a blistered wu$$y in a pepper patch! Maybe stop for a swim in the Salton Sea? NOT! ws
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OgSNQOTw2U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OgSNQOTw2U)
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I havent had the pleasure of conversing with bobbybuick here, but saw a pic of his post car and like the stance. Just PMd him. Is he still around? This is the look Im after with the Chevy Rally wheels. ws
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I havent had the pleasure of conversing with bobbybuick here, but saw a pic of his post car and like the stance. Just PMd him. Is he still around? This is the look Im after with the Chevy Rally wheels. ws
He hasn't been on since Dec 28,2018. I would suggest an email to him.
Loren
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Dear Bill, Loren and mid-60s Buick owners with a taste for things on the rails,
Ill bet the engineers thought of that cab forward as a Godsend! No smoke and the fresh air in your face instead of cooking on top of the deck plates.
. . . .
They were amazing machines. They were even given credit for saving a life. Sometime in the 1940s-50s, a child was playing on the tracks when a heavy freight train was approaching. The engineer applied full brakes but that wasn't going to stop the train in time. Still it slowed the rain enough that a member of the train crew was able to jump off the train, outrun the locomotive, and pull the kid off the tracks just in time. At the time it was believed the crew of a conventional steam locomotive would have never been able to see such a small child on the track with the boiler in the way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OgSNQOTw2U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OgSNQOTw2U)
Thanks for the video. I can never get enough stream!! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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This will show a little more of Bobbybuicks car......truly one of the best 65 GS cars still out there,Dan
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HOAVRlVmklU
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Thanks for that video Dan! That is one sweet gal there! I am a little confused though; its' shown as a '65 GS, yet it seems to have a '64 dash board inside. The glove box door is identical to my '64 and thought they were changed to a bit sleeker design for '65. CMIIW. Does it sport a 4 or a 6 speed? ws
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Yachtsman, you are making great progress on that 64! Keep up the great work! And keep the pictures coming! It brings thoughts of spring! Not this cold
nasty, bitter weather we have been having!
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Thanks Sizzler! Ive gotta trudge through a foot of lake effect snow to get out to the shop this morning. Its supposed to do this all day and evening! We are in Two Rivers, Wi. right on the shore (as in look out the office window at it!) of Lake Michigan. Theres a price to pay LOL. No reason to try and keep up now; we'll dig out later!
So Ive got an 8 HP Murray blower that hasnt failed yet. One pull and its off to the races. But thats not all... I picked up TWO cabs for GOT SNOW? and put them BOTH on for a full enclosure. But theres more! This year I shrouded off the cooling cowl on the motor and rigged up a vent to the inside of the cab. It was zero outside last week and I was blowing in a hoodie and light gloves. Theres usually a 20-30 mph. breeze along with the snow. Looks like Buick time today. Retirement is good! Bill
( I hope these are OK!) My humor is slightly athwarts!
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Bill,
I thought I saw Gabriel earlier but apparently he had to be cleansed of his indiscretions....I have a bit of a twisted view sometimes too. That post 65 on the video was about 80% complete when I saw it,and the dash is correct for a 65. It still has the original 4-speed,console,and post-only interior. I think he added a 66 intake because he wanted the quadrajet manifold,but the car is basically original. I was trying to remember the difference in glove box doors...button position maybe. The 65 special uses the same dash pad surround as a 64 skylark,but 65 skylarks,GS,and sportwagon all had the long top dash pad. Dan
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Just curious... I dont see many 64s and rely on a lot of help from yooz guys to get me through. So the 65 GS was built as a post car as well? The few Ive seen seem to have had a more padded dash with the glove box door mounted lower. The 64s is up pretty high on the dash. I guess thats apples and kumquats LOL...
My Buick shop manual has ZERO info on the GB door lock. Mine was loose and been fooled with before I got it. My 72 manual goes through the re-assembly procedure pretty well, but the 64 is wayy different. The lock goes into the back side of the dash and is retained by the ferrule that is octagon shaped I.D. on the front. That gets installed in the sheetmetal and then the cylinder goes in using a pin to depress each tumbler until seated. Simple enough? Your supposed to "cock" the lock first and that spring is tight! Its bitten me a few times already!
If anyone has some assembly instructions that would make a finnnne sticky! Please send me a copy too. Theres no guess work on that lock. It either IS or ISN'T. What a pizza (pita)!
I pulled the 49 inch speedo cable out. Ive seen a bunch for sale at 68 inches, but that seems short to get to the 4 speeds' passenger side to attach. The dash end has a nut thats 9/16" and the trans end is 3/4" BTW. Of Course my cable looks like new. I broke a plastic push pin yesterday. This retains the toe panel by the steering column that the cable passes UNDER. I need one. Probably at the HELP stand at crack auto.
Spent a few hours cleaning, oiling, and painting parts to the overbuilt Z bar and some engine smalls.
Please send help on that LOCK !! Thanks... Bill
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The glovebox liner, opening and door are same shape and size 64 and 65, they just moved the latch from the dash to the door in 65 to make room for the full width padded dash that was new for 65 on the Skylarks and Special Deluxe models. The base model special retained the same hard plastic, non-padded dash around only the instrument/radio area like the base model 64 specials had. Never had to do anything to the latch on my 64. All I did was take it out to paint the dash, lubricated it, then put it back in. I attached a pic of mine before I restored the car and put in a new repo glove box liner.
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I like the pneumatic trunk release!
So if you had yours out and cleaned and oiled. You were right where I AM. You had to put the mechanism in from the back, and retain it TIGHT with the escutcheon ring, then insert the lock cylinder. I can get my catch in and the ring on, but it seems like I cant cock the latch before putting the lock cylinder in, PLUS, the door doesnt appear to push the catch back far enough to hold it closed.
If anyone can copy a page out the assembly manual (I dont have one), it would be much appreciated. The shop manual breezes by the whole issue with "remove or install" the lock mechanism. ws
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Does this help?
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That is exactly what I needed! I thank you. Looking at the diagram, it shows what appears to be a fiber gasket under the outer ring. Thats no biggy. Im still a bit confused about cocking the latch. I may have to source a different lock if something is missing from mine. I do know that a line mechanic mustve used smoke and mirrors to get that cylinder out with the 1/8 wire! Its buried wayyy up in the backside and upper corner of the dash. For now the assembly is in my lap so Ill do a ton of dry runs. Thanks again! That few paragraphs are a great help! Bill
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On another note, the floor hump showed up and it looks "OK", along with the boot and ring. The boot looks good but the ring is galvanized, not chromed, and for $98.00, not even a pack of screws to mount the 3 together. The ring is a lousy fit up to the hump as well; like it got stepped on or bent in transit, but the box was perfect and packed well. ws
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I'm thinking the wire procedure was after the lock assembly was removed. The original gasket was more of a super thin clear plastic.
The lock set up is kind of goofy and works in reverse the way you would think. When the lock is latches the button comes outward.......when it is not latched the button is flush or inverted.
I have a couple of extras here but no keys and was messing with them.
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Actually, the wire thing works both ways; in and out. When its assembled in the dash, the wire gets the cylinder out so you can unscrew the bezel. Going back together, the bezel gets tightened on to the lock and then the cylinder gets inserted. Youd think it could get snapped in, but you need to depress each brass tumbler and then the steel keeper tumbler. I cant get my lock to latch in the closed position to get the cylinder to seat and latch that steel tumbler.
That assembly book instruction is gonna help immensely! Bill
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So now I need some sage advice. The super T-10 thats going in has the speedo drive on the passenger side. The OEM 3 speed manual was on the drivers side, and the cable was 49 inches. Woefully too short. JC on V8 ran into this as well. Bought one thats 70 inches an "kinda tight" for his 1970 455 X 4 GS. I just found one by chance in either 73 or 83 inches. My choice on the length. I dont want to snake it all over by the hot pipes. Any suggestions? ws
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If you have a long enough cable run it around the bell housing! They did this on the 65 /66 skylark gs
Cars that used the three speed ford transmission !
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Are these secured by the 1/2' trans to bellhousing bolts? ws
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Yes with small clamp style holders that go around the cable! I have made close duplicates out of believe it or not strapping steel like the kind used on pallets and when things are shipped! It can be formed and is like spring steel! I will see if I can post the page from the manual which shows the clips!
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Cool! I think Ive got some plastic or rubber coated units left over from my boat work!
On the glove box lock. So far Ive probably got >5 hours in on this guy. I got really good at taking it out and apart and re-installing it. As far as I can tell, there is a problem with the mechanism. After totally putting all the stuff together it just wont latch. On top of that, theres two small roll pins that act as an axle or trunnion for the spring loaded latch to swivel on that are loose as a goose. Those actually fell out a few times manipple-ating the door to latch. Ive also made several adjustments on the door itself and the latch on same to no avail.
I even printed out that screen shot from the assembly manual and followed it to a T!
So this is a shout out if anyone has one for sale, heres a buyer. Ill put my tumbler cylinder in so the keys are good. Send the cavalry! Any advice is appreciated ! Bill
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Ordered my 83 inch speedo cable today and then got on it (the work that is!). The new el-cheapo tubing bender arrived today as well. This guy was *.00 with free shipping. Theres a million on ebay up to 40.00 for the same thing. I expected the handle to bust, but it performed flawlessly. BONER the dog approved it too! :hello2:
The motor is still out till next week, so that gives me the go ahead to get a ton of smalls done. Got both front drums cleaned up and packed the wheel bearings and installed all. Even tried on a new shoe on the front and thats all good. Bill
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So while rummaging around in the bolt cans, I found the antenna base bezel and plastic nut. How does the mast attach? On to Hurst shifters, got the one from a member here yesterday, and its decidedly different that the one Ive got with the T-10 and Comp + shifter. Necessity is the mother of invention eh? I can cut, drill and weld, but WHAT is the difference between the two?
Shoe fit good and after a full front end lube job, no squeaks LOL. It even lines up good with the infrastructure. The shifter is the typical square peg in the round hole and its doable... ws
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Thanks for the updates Bill! :hello2:
So while rummaging around in the bolt cans, I found the antenna base bezel and plastic nut. How does the mast attach?
There is a flange on the mast that wider than the black nut. So you simply screw the nut and that secures the mast. What do you plan to do for a mast?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Sorry ! I was in a bit of a rush and did post the "find" today on your ebay thred. Heres what I got today out of the bolt can... Bill
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The other day my new $17.00, 83 inch speedo cable showed up. One end screwed onto the speedo and the other end went onto the trans. All I need is the motor and trans in place to fill in the gap. I should have the motor and heads back tis week to bolt together and set in place for a mock up for bolt alignment etc. before assembly, Thats the rear trans mount crossmember location and the new T/A motor pads. An empty block and a trans will be much easier to manippleate than a complete unit.
Finished up on the full front part of the new brake lines and M/C job. Finally mastered my new/used $5.00 flaring kit from a garage sale. NOW, I can make all my own lines. Just never had a reason to make anything other than off the shelf before.
Got a ton of smalls cleaned and or painted off the firewall, and cleaned that before a sample paint job went on. Its no longer the WW Diplomat Blue, but rather a Cobalt Blue with a clear coat. The base looked terrible, but the clear made it pop! Wife concurs, so thats the route Im going.
Got a long road ahead, but its still being "fun". Just wished the budget matched the manifest! Bill
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Just so ya know, this isnt yer dads flaring tool LOL. Mastered this function and on to bigger and better things. Working my way back as I go. Just an FYI... I grabbed the vise-grips for a perfect extraction! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who like an engine bay that spic and span,
Looking really good Bill! :thumbsup: So how did you get the engine bay builder's plate to turn out so clean and shiny? :icon_scratch: That certainly is a neat touch! :sunny:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Edouard and fellow Buick purists that appreciate the fine touches! That plate is aluminum, as I am sure you realize, so its just as easy to damage/destroy as make look good. In Gods good graces, I dont know why the factory insisted on painting them "liberally" back then. My '72 on top of the cowl was merely dusted with topcoat,/primer stuff and was a breeze.
This one took a finesse touch with a propane torch. Do not even let the pain bubble (a heat gun would probably do it too!) but heat it until the paint becomes "plastic". A few attempts with a BRASS wire tooth brush horizontally and then a few with the brush on the vertical and it turned out pretty nice. I covered it with 2" blue tape and trimmed it out with a razor blade befor the paint. Nicked the one corner which I may fix it or just let the "judges" PICK it off haha... Bill
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Hey Bill,
Looks like you have most of the antenna parts there. The plastic nut can be polished to new appearance so it is nice and shiny. I've done a couple of those and parking lamp lenses on my buffing wheel.
There used to be a reproduction mast available, but I wasn't able to find it again.
That double faring tool kit was a really good deal. I seem to recall paying $40-$50 some 30 years ago for mine. I've got another tool that really makes beveling the outside of the tubing easy and quick. Bought it from Eastwood. Here's a picture of this neat tool.
Loren
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Ive been impressed with a lot of Eastwood specialty stuff for sheet metal and such, and looking at this, I thought it would be electric and run on 2 double AA batteries, well 100.00 lithium ion batts anyways! When necessary I use a 60* countersink on the drill motor. You do need to be especially cautious of cleaning debris out of the tube when done. The cutter in my kit is an Imperial Eastman which really leaves a clean, ready to flare end. A C'sink bump will help to start the flare however.
Im getting a ton of satisfaction out of making my own stuff for sure. Ive always used lengths "off the shelf" tubing and can now perform specialized installs from bulk tubing! The benders are all USA made except the multi size red chinaman unit whuch is for 5/16: and has so far worked OK. Bill
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Nope, no batteries needed lol
I've used a file and reamer in the past, but this little tool does a much nicer and quicker job. I imagine there are less expensive units that do the same thing out there too. Double flares for brake lines definitely take a little practice to make correctly. Good tools make the job easier, quicker and even fun sometimes.
Loren
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Dear Bill, Loren, and mid-60s Buick lovers, . . . . :love4:
Thanks Edouard and fellow Buick purists that appreciate the fine touches! That plate is aluminum, as I am sure you realize, so its just as easy to damage/destroy as make look good. In Gods good graces, I dont know why the factory insisted on painting them "liberally" back then.
. . . .
This one took a finesse touch with a propane torch. Do not even let the pain bubble (a heat gun would probably do it too!) but heat it until the paint becomes "plastic".
. . . .
Hmmm, very interesting!! I'm not sure how bold I am, but I do have a heat gun. I'll have to take a look to see if the plate on Biquette would be relatively easy to extricate from its paint "mummy"!
Thanks for the tips! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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No Guts, no Glory pal...
Well, the secret experimental 460 CI BBB made it home today. Still hafta pick up some miscellaneous stuff and the it goes to the O.R. Cleanroom. Block with internals and machining, heads with new springs and all intakes, 10-10 on the crank grind and the new cam was out the door at 1530.00 Thats 70.00 under budget! Whew!! ws
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Under budget is good!
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Just saw this... ws
https://www.racingjunk.com/Buick/182851750/1964-Buick.html#1 (https://www.racingjunk.com/Buick/182851750/1964-Buick.html#1)
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Just saw this... ws
https://www.racingjunk.com/Buick/182851750/1964-Buick.html#1 (https://www.racingjunk.com/Buick/182851750/1964-Buick.html#1)
I'm sure is been modified, but I'm curious what the source was for the center console.
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I like it too but wish they would have left the door handles on.
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It just dawned on me... WEST BEND, WI. swapmeet is TOMORROW FWIW!! ws
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Bill,
Here is what the antenna mast looks like. for '64 and '65.
Loren
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Dear Bill, Jim, Kevin, Loren, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Well, the secret experimental 460 CI BBB made it home today.
. . .
Congratulations! :thumbsup: I do hope you didn't have too much trouble with all the secrecy! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/spy_smiley.jpg)
[url]https://www.racingjunk.com/Buick/182851750/1964-Buick.html#1[/url] ([url]https://www.racingjunk.com/Buick/182851750/1964-Buick.html#1[/url])
Thanks for sharing! I'm sorry that a lot of the tailgate moldings were lost over the years but it does look reasonably nice overall.
I'm sure is been modified, but I'm curious what the source was for the center console.
It is possible to build your own console and have your upholstery outfit cover it in vinyl. A friend of mine did that to camouflage an aftermarket floor shifter on his 1971 Chevelle. He might have started with a console core but he extensively modified it.
I'm definitely feeling that "bucket seat itch." Unfortunately, the local upholstery guy bought all the green fabric he could get when he redid the bench seats. So I don't know if could switch Biquette to bucket seats. For many years I had a "saddle console" for pickup that sat in the space between the front passengers. Before I make my life that much more miserable, I'm hoping to look into that first.
I like it too but wish they would have left the door handles on.
Okay I give up - so how do you get the doors open from the outside? :icon_scratch: Oddly, the fellow left the outside switch to control the tailgate window motor. If he really wanted an extremely clean look, he could have removed that too and only moved the tailgate window from the dash switch. I definitely don't understand what was the big idea with eliminating the door handles.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hello fellow Buick owners and hot rod aficionados... In 50's jargon, the missing door handle are known as being shaved. This guy used a dull razor with the tailgate switch. Theres door popper solenoids that are spring loaded to pop the door open. Just hope theres not a dead battery. Anyways, just have a minute here. Swap meet tomorrow barring another ice storm. Heres one for some ADULT FUN. I hope no one takes offense to bad language LOL... Bill
https://youtu.be/MSMrZNZRMGI
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Wow! You are really moving along on the 64! Sorry you didn't make it down to the BOP swap! Weather was crap! I made it was a little bit Harry of a ride! The attendance was down by both swappers and buyers! I would say mainly because of the weather! Believe it or not there was three or so vendors out in the snow! Keep up the great work and the progress pictures are nice to see!
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Thanks pal! I SOOOO wanted to go to Kane Co. too! Looks like today is gonna be a wash out at West Bend as well. Ice all over the Kingdom. Must be the Beer Gods need a sacrifice. I guess Ill just stay here and get more of nuthin' done LOL. Crack Auto in town has Sunday deliveries from the warehouse, so maybe motor mounts and rear seal will be in today.
Checked and measured ring end gaps yesterday. Hastings +.040" and the all fell well within specs. Taped them all into bundles that are ready to go on the pistones and install. Also ran the M-1 Garand gun brush through all the passages and blew them clear, plus plugged the upgraded , no longer used 430 OHV oil supply line.
The 455s oil through the push rods and the heads dont use this hole anymore. Its also one of the reasons for oil puddling next to the distributor base. I went to crack-auto for the plug and NADA. Then went to NAPA that has a big sign in front "We make Hydraulic Hoses" and the gameboy behind the counter looked at me like I was trying to use a floppy disc in the pacman thing on the counter. Kids! That forced me to go home and pull one outa the drawer (1/8"NPT), tap the hole and drop said plug 2 times netting an hour search all over the shop floor. Its tiny! I even looked in the water passages on the block with a light, mirror, AND magnet!
Im gonna do a quick mock up of the block and pan, with bell housing and trans in the frame for mount positions before it starts getting REAL heavy!
Looks like no antenna mast this time Loren! Bummer. Ill probably make an FM whip from a 3/32 stainless TIG rod with a SS base ferrule in the lathe , when theres nothing else to do but watch the paint dry. GADS! Enjoy the day fellas! Bill
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Dear Bill, Jon, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Hello fellow Buick owners and hot rod aficionados... In 50's jargon, the missing door handle are known as being shaved. This guy used a dull razor with the tailgate switch. Theres door popper solenoids that are spring loaded to pop the door open. Just hope theres not a dead battery.
Okay thanks, so that explains it. Definitely not my cup of tea but it's a free country.
Anyways, just have a minute here. Swap meet tomorrow barring another ice storm. Heres one for some ADULT FUN. I hope no one takes offense to bad language LOL... Bill
https://youtu.be/MSMrZNZRMGI (https://youtu.be/MSMrZNZRMGI)
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Well that is progress . . . . but are you sure you want to be turning that engine using a wrench all the time? . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Just a few turns on assembly lube sitting in the saddles. Before the grind job, the crank was pretty snug with no caps on it... so far so good! Bill
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Darn parts washer! Spending some time swimming in there yesterday, I finally washed the oil pan and saw just how banged up it is. Looks like the rigging failed and it crashed on the floor ON TOP of a 2x4 and then half the rods swiped the inside, making those areas pretty thin. Any repairs will only net heart ache; I really think I need a new one.
CAN'T believe everything you read either Ha.
Of course this pan is another UNICORN... LOL. ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick parts hounds,
Darn parts washer! Spending some time swimming in there yesterday, I finally washed the oil pan and saw just how banged up it is. Looks like the rigging failed and it crashed on the floor ON TOP of a 2x4 and then half the rods swiped the inside, making those areas pretty thin. Any repairs will only net heart ache; I really think I need a new one.
Sorry to hear that your oil pan was stepped on by an elephant! TA-Performance has some that are nicely powder coated if you want something that you can absolutely rely upon. Here is the web location of "da' suspects." . . . . .
http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=185 (http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=185)
Of course you might see if your blood-hound nose can uncover the scent of another one. Obviously you'll need to consult that "other forum down da' hall." As this forum is more in love with da' nailhead . . . . :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Does it really matter as long as its "Valve in Head" design by Buick???
Just spoke with Afton at T/A yesterday. That new pan in plain steel is $170.00 plus another 60.00 for the golf cart ride. 6 lbs and a
3 cu. ft. box wipes me out. If you read the disclaimer, "Modifications may be necessary to fit in the 64-67 model years". So today I am gonna try to do a mock up on the bare block and trans. The pan is on loose with 6 bolts. If it doesnt clear mid-way in, the pan can come off and get hacked up with a cut-off grinder. I take no prisoners, cut grass, or chew bubble gum. I burn steel and pass gas! (MIG get it?)
I have found a few locally, but are in the "new" (1970 dollars) range... about $75.00 and if the elephant mound wont fit then these wont either. Gotta go make breakfast for Pat after I make some carbon and scorched earth. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who are on a first name basis with too many TA-Performance employees!
Just spoke with Afton at T/A yesterday.
Shucks! I didn't know of an employee named Afton at TA-Performance . . . :icon_scratch: I suppose that's a good thing! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/smiley.gif) Instead of having to call TA-Performance all the time to find out what was up with my trusty wagon's engine, these days enjoying my trusty wagon's engine is as easy as - starting it up! . . . .(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/car_3gears.gif)
If you read the disclaimer, "Modifications may be necessary to fit in the 64-67 model years".
You might need to check with that "forum down the hall," but I'm reasonably sure the mid-sump oil pan fits without issues. There were a lot of problems getting the engine into my wagon's engine bay, but nothing with the oil pan that I can remember.
Unfortunately, you may eventually find yourself between a rock and hard place on this one. The oil pan needs to be really true to avoid leaking at the seal.
Cheers, Edouard
P.S. A quick warning of "upcoming attractions" . . . . . Are you thinking about headers or exhaust manifolds? Exhaust manifolds are okay I believe, but getting the steering column past the headers is really a tight squeeze.
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The proverbial square peg in the round hole... needs a bigger hammer and Voila! Mock up went well. Wanted to be sure before assembly and moving a 1000# behemoth around! The "blank" is heavy enough! ws
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Looks good in there!
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Thanks jim! just trying to make it as simple and smooth as possible! Bill
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Looking good Bill! :thumbsup:
So far you are definitely steady on the mark!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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LOL Edouard! Thar she blows! :occasion14: Had to mark the hole while in mock up stage for precision and drill with a bell hangers drill! Then the seat was freed from captivity for the first time in 54 years. It looked pretty good underneath; a veritable time capsule again. Surprisingly solid, whew! Pulled the rug out and layed out the hole for the hump. With the mock up (MU) sitting on all three mounts, the shifter is only gonna stick through the OEM floor about 1-1/4 inches. I dont think Im gonna use the hump, and its a cruddy fit anyway. Just the ring and the boot should do it. EXSPURTS?? :overthetop:
Also got the factory copy of the assembly manual. The book was 28.00 and I already got 20.00 worth of info out of it. Be warned, the book is a nicely put together Xerox copy of copy of a copy. Details and such are poor. The pages are also bound left handed. Kinda hard to read.
Gonna start posting some time capsule pics and install booty pics with the MU. Bill
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So the dotted line is from the hump insert, and the solid line is from the ring. Underneath shows the C/L of the shifter pivot bolt to the floor bottom. Thats 1-1/2". The shifter pic shows from the pivot to the top of the stalk mount. EXSPURTS??? I think the boot and ring will cover it all. Bill
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Last pics guys... just had dinner and am reaching CRITICAL MASS LOL... One shows the cruddy fit up on the hump; Ill probably return it for 50.00 ! I can make a better one if I have to. The others are the new ASS. BOOK. ..And thats an understatement! :dontknow: Bill
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Bill, the hump will fit fine once you cut the hole. The part you are gonna cut out is currently higher than the lip around the hole in the hump and is making it not fit all the way down on the floor. You need to use the hump, otherwise the boot will tear on the shifter mechanism over time.
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Thats exactly what I needed to hear! I will check that out for sure. "I cant believe its too short; I measured it once and cut it twice..". I ran outa time today after 5 hours, PLUS two hours blowin' snow! :crybaby2: Bill
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com owners of da' perfect "convincer" tools . . . .
Last pics guys... just had dinner and am reaching CRITICAL MASS LOL... One shows the cruddy fit up on the hump . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Not to worry! All you need to do is put that elephant that did such a nifty job on your oil pan on da' case! With just a few foot-steps it will make that piece fit flat on da' hump! Best of you can probably get the whole job done for peanuts! . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/groucho_naughty.gif)
. . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Gotta oil pan coming from a V8 guy. Pretty fair condition. Got my new clutch COMPLETE KIT yesterday, disc, plate, TO bearing,guide tool and spline grease for 98.00 in 3 days.
Brian you were correcto! I cut the "A" hole out and the dang hump almost laid in there perfect. The edge needed to get trimmed for the Hurst shifter. Probably wouldve fit on a Muncie. Had to also trim for the pivot bolt; the boot and soundproofing will cover that. The boot holes didnt match the ring quite, so it was another chapter in Mein Kampf. When the MU comes apart I will enlarge those holes in a better position so theres less "kampf".
Had to trim the funny business off the stalk and drill it to fit the shifter. Installed the boot and ring, moved the seat back for a temporary feel and grabbed gears for an hour. The stick is almost perfect! Playing make believe is good for the spirits! Right now its one day at a time.
Tomorrow it all comes apart for the engine assembly, and then we are off to the races. Bill
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com automotive jigsaw puzzle assemblers,
. . . .
Brian you were correcto! I cut the "A" hole out and the dang hump almost laid in there perfect.
. . . .
I'm glad Brian was able to steer you in the right direction and you got it all to fit without the need of either peanuts or elephants! :hello2:
Tomorrow it all comes apart for the engine assembly, and then we are off to the races. Bill
Looking forward to those pictures! Keep up da' good work!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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You guys aint bored yet LOL? Im getting burned out on V8; plenty of readership, but no comments. I really like input or a slap on the back. Its yer choice! ME? I just wanna pull a block long hole shot! Bill
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com soap opera viewers, . . . .
You guys aint bored yet LOL?
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . Oh I was so hoping you might bring this topic up! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/bouncey.gif) So are you going to bore the block so that you can use even bigger pistons and get even more displacement! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/car_3gears.gif)
:icon_scratch: . . . . Huh? Ya' mean the word 'bore' can mean anything else on a car forum? . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
I'm getting burned out on V8; plenty of readership, but no comments. I really like input or a slap on the back. Its yer choice! ME? I just wanna pull a block long hole shot!
I can't speak for everyone else, but I enjoy seeing someone putting projects together and I try whenever I have a project underway to do the same. Even if there isn't a lot of replies that doesn't mean people aren't interested. For many, watching along is a way to learn another thing or two. People may not thank you until they try to do something on their own and realize you gave them a leg up on how to do it!
As long as you aren't burned out - keep'em commin'! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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You guys aint bored yet LOL? Im getting burned out on V8; plenty of readership, but no comments. I really like input or a slap on the back. Its yer choice! ME? I just wanna pull a block long hole shot! Bill
Definitely not Bill. Always interesting to see how you are coming along.
I think the group found here , although smaller, is a bit more encouraging then found else where. I've had limited success getting a response with a some other forums also.
Just my $ .02 ,
Loren
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Thanks for the vote of confidence Loren! It just seems theres little interest in what Im doing, then other times its like the roof fell in. I just like to share stuff. Wait till boat season starts! I also have my dear old dads 1963 36 foot Chris Craft Aluminum Roamer, hull #6. Pops bought that in 1972 and croaked in 1980. He died going to the bottom with a tugboat he was the engineer on. A major faux pas with a steamship in tow. I ended up buying the boat that was promised to me by dad from the estate that was executed by his brother, my uncle :angryfire: :angryfire:. Blood is thicker than water. Never got a call that gramma died (his mother) but thats OK, since she died the day after my mom died. I saw her obit in the paper and showed up unannounced and then told them about my mom.
Our family put the FUN in dysfunctional LOL.
Anyways, participation is strictly voluntary on forums. Just hope everyone gets a kick outa my stuff.
Now for Edouard! Pal, if I ever get bored, Id probably shrivel up and die in the sun. 30+ years on call 24/7/365 in a generating station to full time retirement lasted about a month, then started working a few contract jobs etc until "age" finally caught up LOL. I feel guilty if I take a day or two off a week.
Keep Boring my friend; Bigger and Deeper! Bored and honed at +.040"... Now a Buick 460 MONSTER. Bill
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Project is looking good. Things move much slower at my place.
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Dust a little paint stripper on the chair followed by 3M spray glue! :hello2: Ya know Jim, I like what Im doing and this is probably the "Last picture Show"(!) for me. Its gonna be a doozy! Gotta get it back on the road, then worry about a paint job and some detail stuff next year. Cant stay fat and belong to OEA at the same time (Over eaters anonymous). Back in the day, we'd call them "sleepers".
The best part is gonna be going to a car show, and watching all the n'er-do-wells rag about the faded paint etc, until they get around to the business end and hit the "WOW" factor. Im good with that. My pal from Dwight Il. keeps telling me I need a 488 gear. Its a BBB I tell him. Even with the 72 XGS and a 273 open, it feels like its gonna get air sometimes! I dont even know whats in the back, but the V6's and sticks tended to have 323s. That should be PLEN-TEE.
This is the flip side of the cushion with the paint stripper. Ha!! Bill
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Dear Bill, Jim, and 65GS.com fans of MORE!!!
. . . . .
Bigger and Deeper! Bored and honed at +.040"... Now a Buick 460 MONSTER. Bill
. . . . . .
Now that's more like it! . . . :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Yes Bill, Please keep the Info coming. I really enjoy your project Buick, and even though I may never get to do that myself it's been a blast to watch you go thru the paces and see the build come together. A real build in real time. Not like the phony shows that have 25 people building a car in one week. Most of the hobby are people like us on our backs getting dirty, scrounging needed parts, blasting, welding, & painting. And if we get the time, we drive them to a cruise night or a club event.
Keep up the great work you are doing, We appreciate it more than you know.. [/u]:notworthy:
Tony
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Same here... keep the posts coming! I'm thoroughly enjoying this thread! I generally only comment when I can add something or help you out.
I'm the same way in real life.... I don't talk much unless you get me going on a good subject after a few beers!
I'm glad the floor hump worked out for you.... especially since I recommended it! It worked well for my 66's. The original retaining ring for the Buicks was just painted black. The Chevelle one is at least silver zinc, so that's a bonus. The next alternative would have been a Hurst or Mr Gasket boot, but they're less original if you're going that route.
3.23 is likely for a 3 speed car. The 3 speed had an extra low first gear so the 4 speed 3.36 wasn't necessary. Should work well with a torquey big block.
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Keep the progress coming Bill,and you'll be driving before me.
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Just some pics from the last few days. Now I need to absorb them to guess where i am at! Bill
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That 455 looks rather easy to put a dial indicator on the cam! It's a challenge on the Nailhead since there's less room down in the valley. I made up a testing lifter by epoxying some nuts into an old lifter and adding a long bolt to get it above the deck. The spring keeps the lifter seated on the cam.
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Thats a great idea with the lifter pre-load spring Walt! Kinda hard to do on the 455 with no heads on tho. Your method will render a consistent "ZERO" even against a film of oil. Thats not much but it is "consistent". I think I need to make a "travel stop" for the piston. Ive never done this before, so if I'm going through the motions, I may as well learn it and learn it proppa! The hardest part about 0* at TDC is in both directions having to stop at ZERO and go NO MORE. That makes a dozen or so "lash trips" in everything if you go past the mark. I was getting "consistent readings within 1 or 2 crank degrees. The TDC piston dwell is running about 1-1/2 crank degrees as well. Its just more difficult to do the math in the middle of a process.
All Ive established with the stock single key crank gear, is that the timing marks come back to "dot to dot" with the piston at TDC. It doesnt show any relevance to the actual cam retard or advance. If you look at my wheel, its secured to the damper, so theres no way to center the marks between CC or CCW on the crank degrees. Gotta do the math on that one!
Once thats done, I can then measure minus .050" on the piston TDC for initial valve opening and closing. So far its "ABOUT 110*" and the card calls for 112*. Close enough? Maybe; but I'd like to try and get it where its supposed to be. Please let me know if I am beginning to grasp the concept!
As it sits, with the forged and balance pistons and rods, the piston top is at about .055" below the deck height. Thats just a little more math to determine TRUE TDC. I am using #1 piston with no rings, but attached and tightened rod big end to the crank. Its much easier to roll over with no rings on it! Please negate the dial indicator needle hysteresis!
"A property of a system such that an output value is not a strict function of the corresponding input, but also incorporates some lag, delay, or history dependence, and in particular when the response for a decrease in the input variable is different from the response for an increase. For example, a thermostat with a nominal setpoint of 75? might switch the controlled heat source on when the temperature drops below 74?, and off when it rises above 76?.
Magnetic friction in dynamos, by which every reversal of magnetism in the iron causes dissipation of energy." Bill
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Thanks. I spent a lot of time profiling some cams.... taking measurements every couple of degrees and plotting points on graph paper to compare cams. Did it with stock rockers, Tom's roller rockers and even some old adjustable iron rockers.
To find TDC, check piston movement with the dial indicator at btdc and atdc at a certain distance. It could be 0.020" or 0.200", doesn't really matter. Mark those two points on the degree wheel, then move your pointer between those two marks.... that's TDC. A piston stop does the same thing..... it stops the piston at a certain distance below tdc, whether it's btdc or atdc. And true tdc will be exactly between those two points!
And position the dial indicator over the piston pin. Where you show it, the piston will rock back and forth and throw off your true readings.
Have fun!
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Thanks Walt... yer my inspiration/mentor LOL... I took yesterday off. Pat had her first cataract/lense replacement and a glaucoma pressure stent installed. She's doing super now; major headaches have subsided and next Tuesday is #2. Whew! Then its back to regular bones, blood and brains for both of us. Ha freakin' ha!
So yesterday I did manage to do some more research and found some peculiar anomalies (is that rhetorical??) with a 455 buick motor. I was looking for a crank snout degree wheel mounting socket with a knurled nut.
IMPOSIBE mon cher!
The Buick crank happens to MIC up at 1.437-5" and EVERYONE between here and Uranus is either 1-3/8 or 1-1/2+". I finally bought one from Scummit (aluminum-BOO) at 1.542" for a BBC and will sleeve it here to fit the 455. Also bought an 11" degree wheel;
"The Stevie Wonder" model LOL... Never a dull moment as they say. I also fabbed up a piston stop bar to help find an accurate TDC. Just hope the new cam and chain set lines up without the cost of a 8 keyway crank sprocket.
Used oil pan came in yesterday with a set of used rockers due in a few days. So much stuff was wore out from abuse on this motor, but its gonna be as fresh as a daisy when im done with it... I hope!
Sorry guys; no pics this time... ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who also cruise the solar system,
. . . . .
The Buick crank happens to MIC up at 1.437-5" and EVERYONE between here and Uranus is either 1-3/8 or 1-1/2+".
. . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif). . . . Well now! If everyone else between the Earth and Uranus uses 1-3/8 or 1-1/2+" that leaves only one possible conclusion. The only other major planet before Earth is Venus. So I suppose this must have something to do with Buicks coming from Venus and the rest coming from Mars! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Sorry guys; no pics this time... ws
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) . . . . Bummer dude! Oh how shall get through da' rest of da' day?! . . . . :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Yer new name is Emerson Goodins' LOL... :hello2: :hello2: ws
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Progress is slow for a while, but confidence is HIGH! Some knucklehead swapped out a FORD (!!) bearing retainer for the GM size... 1.440" vs 1.375" on the GM's. Gonna spin that one in the lathe tomorrow. Always somethin'!! Bill
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Bill,
Nice job repairing the pan! I assume that's what you did. Looks good!
Now it's time to "nag". Did you look for the heater hose brackets that we are discussing in that other thread? You told me to keep on you, so I'll keep on keepin' on! :evil6:
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Thanks man! The only credit I can take is that I had to clean and paint a really GROADIE pan from a guy on V8. I just didnt trust mine without making a total project out of that too. If it were for a 1926 packard I'd have done it LOL.
After following the bracket thred, Im not sure if the V6 used them. Hmmm Bill
No pics, but Ill look through the rusty stuff tomorrow!
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FINALLY found the pre-disassembly pic! Looks different on the NON AC V6 job... Bill
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It?s gonna look way better with a 455!
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Looks like the front bracket might be the same. I don't see a rear bracket, but hard to tell. Think you can find 'em?
And I agree, it will look much better with a 455!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Dear Bill, Chuck, Jim, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Progress is slow for a while, but confidence is HIGH! Some knucklehead swapped out a FORD (!!) bearing retainer for the GM size... 1.440" vs 1.375" on the GM's. Gonna spin that one in the lathe tomorrow. Always somethin'!! Bill
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) . . . . But of course! Murphy's law wouldn't have it any other way! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/D'oh.gif)
Thanks man! The only credit I can take is that I had to clean and paint a really GROADIE pan from a guy on V8.
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Yeah, but looking at that oil pan is making me see RED! . . . :angryfire: Don't you know that Buick engines in 1964 were painted some sort of silver? . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Seriously, I can't blame you for sticking with Buick red. Has anybody actually painted a 1964 engine in Buick factory colors? (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/confused_do_no.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Youve got a better eye than me Chuck! What am I looking at? LOL...Gimme a pointer OK? Bill
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No I don't. After looking more closely, what I thought was a bracket was the heater hose going into it's port. Sorry for the confusion. Carry on!!! :sunny:
Chuck
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Don't you know that Buick engines in 1964 were painted some sort of silver? . . . .
That puke green color reminds me of Model A Ford green/putty color. They called it "moleskin". When you see the finished product sportin' stainless hardware, chrome valve covers and a big ol' HEI, yer gonna say "WHAT????". I flunked a quiz a while back at a neighbors shop. He builds all kinds of weird hot rod stuff. I was admiring a motor on a stand, and he asked if I knew what it was.
The distributor was in the front, and I said its almost a 455 Buick but not quite. The valve covers looked "455 Olds-ish". He refreshed me by saying its a 500 CID Caddy motor. :nono: It was the least choice of hot rod stuff I was gonna guess at. Only died in the wool Buick guys are even gonna know what the GX is... Bill :thumbsup:
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BREAKING NEWS.... THIS JUST IN... Saw this guy on Craigslist about 20 miles from home. Gonna go well armed with a bucket-o-tools, Sounds Irish eh? If anyone sees this and I am on my way, call with wants and needs and Ill see what I can do. Bill in TR 630 388 8882
This is a substantial trip across the frozen tundra today so get with the program LOL...
https://sheboygan.craigslist.org/pts/d/newton-1965-buick-skylark-california/6837396182.html
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Just got back from another world tour... well 20 miles each way anyways. The car is a California 4 door sedan with factory AC. The AC stuff is intact and in the car. The motor was pulled yesterday, and wrapped up on a pallet under a foot of snow. The unit was removed by cutting the heater hoses at the fire wall so the hose brackets are probably still there. No one called while I was there so yer SOL, unless you call the guy, and confirm the parts, Ill go get them when I have the chance.
My score? Two almost perfect rocker caps in aluminum, still shiny, with all the fasteners. A 1965 glove box door with LATCH. I'm gonna retrofit it to my '64. Oh and a complete antenna, but the black nut is cracked.
The car also has a decent remote drivers mirror and a pretty decent dash panel. Car is getting parted on ebay next week so get with it guys.
BTW... Lorens' been to the guys place before. He remembers your venture into making new steering wheels. Its when you and Jim(?) from Green Bay went on that power tour a while back! He sends regards! Bill
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. . . .
My score? Two almost perfect rocker caps in aluminum, still shiny, with all the fasteners. A 1965 glove box door with LATCH. I'm gonna retrofit it to my '64. Oh and a complete antenna, but the black nut is cracked.
. . . .
Not a bad haul! :hello2:
If you want a nice antenna nut, there are two NOS nuts for sale on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-BUICK-GRAN-SPORT-SPECIAL-SKYLARK-SPORTWAGON-NORS-ANTENNA-MOUNT-NUT/273751306903 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-BUICK-GRAN-SPORT-SPECIAL-SKYLARK-SPORTWAGON-NORS-ANTENNA-MOUNT-NUT/273751306903)
I don't know if $28 is a reasonable price for this or not. I did replace Biquette's antenna nut with an NOS one at least 15 years ago and it looks fine.
Keep up da' good werk! . . . :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hey der Emmerson! :wave: Look CAREFULLY at the antenna base. Almost NOS (in the trunk since 1980!) that was only 3500.00 It came with the car along with the teardrop. I now have a 95% perfect OEM assembly. Chrome on the ferrule on the stick is "iffy" but the trusty MOLOTOW pen will come to the rescue. Bill
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Great score! And right in your backyard!
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Just got back from another world tour... well 20 miles each way anyways. The car is a California 4 door sedan with factory AC. The AC stuff is intact and in the car. The motor was pulled yesterday, and wrapped up on a pallet under a foot of snow. The unit was removed by cutting the heater hoses at the fire wall so the hose brackets are probably still there. No one called while I was there so yer SOL, unless you call the guy, and confirm the parts, Ill go get them when I have the chance.
My score? Two almost perfect rocker caps in aluminum, still shiny, with all the fasteners. A 1965 glove box door with LATCH. I'm gonna retrofit it to my '64. Oh and a complete antenna, but the black nut is cracked.
The car also has a decent remote drivers mirror and a pretty decent dash panel. Car is getting parted on ebay next week so get with it guys.
BTW... Lorens' been to the guys place before. He remembers your venture into making new steering wheels. Its when you and Jim(?) from Green Bay went on that power tour a while back! He sends regards! Bill
If I recall correctly, that is Tom. That was like 3 years ago. Good score there Bill. Especially the rocker trim. Difficult to find nice ones.
Loren
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Actually this guy is TIM and his twin brother is TOM... he's a chevy guy. They turned 60 last Friday. The rocker trim is 99% straight and the back side is shiny; we'll see how the front cleans up. Its got the black grooves in it. Thinking about red in the GS legacy. My GSX had black which is dull... I went red and it popped! Managed to retrieve all the mounting pucks and frame screws too. This is cast aluminum and the 72 is stamped Stainless. More dang pot metal, but it survived. Bill
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Ahh, yes. there were two '65 Skylark hardtops there at the time. Both were nice condition cars.
Loren
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Dear Bill, Jon, Loren, and 65GS.com parts hounds, . . .
Hey der Emmerson! :wave: Look CAREFULLY at the antenna base. Almost NOS (in the trunk since 1980!) that was only 3500.00 It came with the car along with the teardrop. I now have a 95% perfect OEM assembly.
Okay, I did notice this on one of your earlier pictures, but I was puzzled because it does look different from a standard 1965 antenna. It has a tapered reinforcement near the base that I hadn't seen before. Can anybody "lurn" me about this different style of antenna?
Still, as long as it fits - can't argue with success!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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It is an aftermarket replacement antenna, but looks fully functional!
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That new antenna is an FM stereo whip, non telescoping. Theres a 30+ YO kick booty stereo on board which probably went with it. Otherwise plugging away... Bill
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Dear Brian, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
That new antenna is an FM stereo whip, non telescoping.
Okay, but that will definitely get the job done!
Also, good job with the glove compartment door. One more thing off da' do-to list!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The judges will never know! :overthetop: Bill
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Dang!! six days have passed!
Loren, have you talked to Mike (?) in Green Bay? The whole area (Belleview, East River etc.) where he lives was inundated with ice jam flooding this last week.
Ive just been pluggin' along MMOB. Got the bottom end of the 455 together. Bunches of stuff coming in the mail. Did a really decent swap meet in Fond du lac, Wi. yesterday; got some good stuff.
Gonna try and source a heater core locally. I need a 70-72 Non AC skylark core to clear the valve cover on the 455. This one has a water letter outer. Otherwise, Still alive and well... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Dang!! six days have passed!
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . I was getting worried that you might have fallen through a wormhole into another dimension or something! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin_triangle.gif)
Loren, have you talked to Mike (?) in Green Bay? The whole area (Belleview, East River etc.) where he lives was inundated with ice jam flooding this last week.
I haven't been able to keep up with the Midwest storm, but sure sounds nasty.
Ive just been pluggin' along MMOB. Got the bottom end of the 455 together. Bunches of stuff coming in the mail. Did a really decent swap meet in Fond du lac, Wi. yesterday; got some good stuff.
Gonna try and source a heater core locally. I need a 70-72 Non AC skylark core to clear the valve cover on the 455. This one has a water letter outer. Otherwise, Still alive and well... Bill
Thanks for the pictures and progress report! Nice to see all those shiny engine parts! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/smiley.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Loren, have you talked to Mike (?) in Green Bay? The whole area (Belleview, East River etc.) where he lives was inundated with ice jam flooding this last week.
Bill
I haven't spoken with Dan for a few days. I imagine he is fine, I don't recall his home being low enough to have flooding. Although he did send me a picture of his back fence , it was a bit more then just a puddle back there.
Hope everyone is keeping safe, it's been a heck of a spring.
Loren
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Spring?? Is it coming? We're finally in the 40s today with 50s and 60s forecast later in the week. Thankfully, no flooding though.....
Happy Spring to all!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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All I can say is that within 1/2 mile of Dan's place there was 2-3 feet of water on the roads, schools closed, lots of reglar' old mayhem...Hers some swap meet scores from Sunday... any guesses?? ws
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Looks like a Hurst Mastershift handle.
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We'll call the T handle the MANDLE. Whats the yellow long thing?? Bill
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Its Pats birthday today :occasion13: so I let her help line the engine and hoist up to install the power assembly into the BAD LASS. So now she's enthused. "When ya gonna get it running...?" Sheesh!
Anyways, just trying to help keep this place afloat! Bill
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Well Happy Birthday Pat!! :occasion13: Hope you're having a great day!
It's my grandmothers birthday today too. Only with us in our memories. Born in 1902 and came to the USA from Germany when she was a teen. The world sure has changed in the past century!
Great to see the progress Bill! Keep the updates coming!
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Thanks Walt! From both of us... Whatcha know about BBB exhaust manifolds for the Special. Looks like its gonna be pretty tight. Might hafta swap manifold sides and run the pipes to the front with a BIG "U" to get them pointed out back again. I dont mind thinking outside the box, but a HAT BOX? Bill
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The 64-67 a-body frames were basically the same with some minor differences and different spring perches in the back (also boxing for the convertible and GS in the midsection). The 400, 430 and 455 exhaust manifolds were basically the same size and dimension from 67-76 with some minor changes and slightly different flow characteristics. So, unless you have a really "Special" frame, your manifolds are going to fit.
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Dear Bill, Walt, Good Dr., and mid-60s Buick owners,
Whatcha know about BBB exhaust manifolds for the Special.
. . . .
So, unless you have a really "Special" frame, your manifolds are going to fit.
As the good Dr. reports, the manifolds will fit - if tightly. What won't fit is headers unless you have the Stage-2 heads. You should be able to get the stock steering linkage to get past the manifolds - but it will be a tight squeeze!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I couldnt afford to stay at the Holiday Inn last night, but struggling through 6 years of school to be an OB-GYN paid off. Those puppies slid right in like they were made for it. Some bolts had to go into the pipes first. All the clutch stuff lined right up too. Right now I am exactly where I wanna be! At my desk drinking coffee... Doctors Orders!! Lasagna for dinner, the some recreational alcohol abuse WITH a chaser LOL... Bill
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I couldnt afford to stay at the Holiday Inn last night, but struggling through 6 years of school to be an OB-GYN paid off. Those puppies slid right in like they were made for it. Some bolts had to go into the pipes first. All the clutch stuff lined right up too. Right now I am exactly where I wanna be! At my desk drinking coffee... Doctors Orders!! Lasagna for dinner, the some recreational alcohol abuse WITH a chaser LOL... Bill
So, before I say something I will regret, Thank you all for the birthday wishes.
Now for the regret.....Only 6 years OB-GYN????? Love ya baby...pppat
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Dear Bill, Pat, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Looking good! However, your steering linkage is about as tight as on my wagon! I thought with the exhaust manifolds you'd have a bit more room!
So how are you going to route the dipstick and tube?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Greeting Edouard and fellow Buick Dipsticks LOL... The DS is going right back in the hole front whence it came. Thats just aft of #5 cylinder. This one has a tube with a "stay" that runs to the cylinder head where the heat stove gets bolted to. Its a 455 thing.
Spent the better part of one hour installing the ex. pipe gaskets. What a breeze! Cleaned and never seized bolts, tapped holes, and new gaskets... it all slid into place again. Im thinking about using this for my masters thesis for my clinical PHD in Gyneco.... never mind :nono:
Spent the rest of the day MUing (mocking up) the front end with pulleys and such. Not quite where I wanted to be today as the '64 power steering pump and brackets, although a direct bolt up were not in line on the pulleys. Gonna go pick up a set of 455 brackets and pump tomorrow. The alternator was close enough to make a judgement call. Straight edge looks good but difficult to get on it. Im picking up a belt tomorrow for a visual; the eyes dont lie! Also fit the fuel pump. Its a common problem with roller chains to rub on the arm, but this one is absolutely clear. I filed the holes an extra 1/16" just to be sure.
The OEM pump and parts looks like new, so if anyone needs it sing out. Its a nice piece and is VERY CORRECT. All rinsed out(hoses), cleaned and painted. See pics... Bill
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Bill,
Have you considered making 3 spacers and using some longer bolts to space the PS bracket off the front of the head further so it will line up? You can make them out of a piece of 3/8 steel plumping pipe from the hardware store.
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I am absolutely not opposed to making shims to align stuff; did billion dollar turbine alignment stuff at the power plant for 30 years, HOWEVER, the pump is back at the very least 1-2 inches AND the 64 ran the belt over the top of the water pump (3 pulleys) whereas the 455 used just the lower pulley (2 pulleys). The 455 unit is also much more compact, plus I do have the OEM 455 pulleys.
The alternator may be 1/8 - 1/4 off as well. but that can be done with an aluminum plate so the judges will never see it LOL... Thats getting a belt today to confirm alignment. Need the adjuster arm for that.
Gonna go see my buddy up here that has a barn full of 455 stuff. Thats where I got the heads, intake and crank from for 100.00. This pump looks good and Ill include the V6-300 pulleys with it. Hopefully some one needs it! Bill
This is a before shot of my 1972 455. I dont think the HEI will clear the old pump either.
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Dear Bill, Brian, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Greeting Edouard and fellow Buick Dipsticks LOL... The DS is going right back in the hole front whence it came. Thats just aft of #5 cylinder. This one has a tube with a "stay" that runs to the cylinder head where the heat stove gets bolted to. Its a 455 thing.
In retrospect a silly question my part. There was some challenges in getting the dipstick around the headers in my trusty wagon's engine. However, you are using the exhaust manifolds that Buick designed for that engine, so indeed everything should line up as it did at the factory.
Gonna go pick up a set of 455 brackets and pump tomorrow.
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . That's great news! . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/bouncey.gif) . . . . because that means you can get a power steering pump in CHROME!!! . . . :sunny: . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Sooo.... while out junking tonight, I picked up a PS pump from a 1970 455 with all the brackets and bolts, a big car air cleaner, and a nice OEM 1970 dipstick... NO TUBE REQUIRED. I thought of Edouard when I saw it. Throttle cable bracket, PCV formed hose, Alt upper bracket all for 25.00. Lotsa cleaning tomorrow! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick engine maintainers,
. . . .
A nice OEM 1970 dipstick... NO TUBE REQUIRED. I thought of Edouard when I saw it.
. . . .
Grumble, grumble, grumble . . . . I'll bet that 1970 dipstick will slide in and out with very little resistance. Getting the dipstick out of Biquette's engine is almost as bad as pulling teeth! :angry1: I just checked TA-Performance's current listings. Michael Jr. mentioned a new dipstick on V-8 Buick but I didn't understand what the difference was. They do have a new kit designed for aluminum heads - that probably would have helped for Biquette's engine. I'm still hoping that somebody will come up with a dipstick that is articulated. Something like the Lokar dipsticks:
http://www.lokar.com/engine-dipsticks.html (http://www.lokar.com/engine-dipsticks.html)
Alas Lokar doesn't have a model for big-block Buick engines.
In other news, I see you have a recent (or at least very well cleaned up) Edelbrock carburetor on top of the intake manifold. Which Edelbrock carb is it?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. Okay, I scrolled around your thread but can't find the answer - so I give up. What is the source of your intake manifold? It doesn't look like Biquette's B4B or any of the other TA-Performance aluminum manifolds.
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Well son, thats an Edelhoser all right. Not my perfect choice, but its new and was gifted to me. I owe the gifter a debt of gratitude; he's sent me two full boxes of T/A kinda stuff with very little dyno time only for gratis, just pay shipping.
Does your dipstick use a tube, or direct into the block? My 455 is a 1974 with a tube. I pulled the tube out and replaced it with a 1970 stick, sans the tube. The 64's V6 had a stick only as well. Dump the tube (always hated them!) and adjust just the stick. Do it after an oil change so you know its good.
Got the new PS pump all mounted with one more hose to make up. The early A models were slightly different than the later ones as far as hose sizes are concerned. I shall overcome !
Took a bunch of pics of the carb for 1965Special... email me when you have the time! Bill
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....
P.S. Okay, I scrolled around your thread but can't find the answer - so I give up. What is the source of your intake manifold? It doesn't look like Biquette's B4B or any of the other TA-Performance aluminum manifolds.
I can't make out the casting number on the intake, but I'd say it's factory Buick......with Top Secret paint! :glasses9:
Should be fun at car shows!
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You guys floor me! The intake is an experimental 1964 cast ceramic unit that BMD made just for this motor. Its one of one. It matches the 6 bolt main block with the cross drilled main caps.
So tonight is laundry night; and this thing is taking me to the Lavanderia! Gonna spend some time underneath (Ill take my lunch box with LOL!) and get the shifter put back on, speedo cable installed with the custom T10 routing brackets, cut the old single rotted exhaust off (the muffler was one big mouse nest), and start measuring up for a drive shaft. Which leads me to this...
The other day when installing the manifolds, I had to break the rag joint and move the steering shaft to get one bolt in. Hmmm. Cleaned everything back up and went to close the joint and it seperated by about 1/4+". I could put vise grips on it to close it, but when released, opened back up. The VG's would also pop the firewall mount for the steering column.. just that 1/4", back and forth. I ended up moving the steering box side of the RJ "up" tp make it up. It looks way better, but is still lacking 1/4" on the box spline.
Is there a possibility that the frame sagged with the 455 up front? The jackstands are at the body mounts on the frame below the cowl, so the front frame member is "cantilevered" from the FW forward. Thoughts? Ideas?? Bill
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Bill,
There is a spring behind the steering wheel and a clamp at the bottom of the column tube around the shaft where it goes into the bearing at the bottom of the tube. If you look, there is likely a large gap between the base of the steering wheel and the column jacket. To fix, remove the steering wheel to free the tension of the spring, then adjust the clamp higher on the steering shaft so that the shaft is not as far up in the column. Put the wheel back on to check the distance. You may have to do this a couple times before you get it right. When you are done, the rag joint should line up properly. The steering column tube will also move some where it is mounted under the dash. So all that to say, there are adjustments that you need to adjust to get the rag joint to align.
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Ill double check that. The first thing I looked at was the wheel to drum gap and it was good. I didnt go under the dash, but the rugs going back in today so thats a plus. I wanna get the hole cut in the rug for the shifter, get that installed with the ring and put the door sills back on.
FWIW... I have a front and back full width CHERRY (33,000 miles) Skylark factory (?) floor mat. I think these are one or two year only. Its a 3 foot wide bird embossed into the heavy black rubber. I hate to cut a hole in the front, so I'd gladly trade for a pair (or all 4) handy mats with the white tri-shield logo. Judges will be impressed!!
Also Edouard... Iff'n yer handy, take a length of speedo cable and silver solder the end closed (a point) and silver solder it to the handle, and mark it accordingly with a DULL chisel. Just a thought. If you dont use a tube, Ill get that 64 V6 stick to you! for shipping. Bill
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Not sure what those mats are from, but pretty positive they are not Buick. Maybe a Thunderbird?
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Is there a possibility that the frame sagged with the 455 up front? The jackstands are at the body mounts on the frame below the cowl, so the front frame member is "cantilevered" from the FW forward. Thoughts? Ideas?? Bill
Yes, the frame will flex with jackstands at the cowl. That could account for the gap.
Nailhead GS's have a steering column with a removable flange. A welded-on-flange column simply can't be removed with a Nailhead in there, not enough room! Changing a starter or drivers side ex manifold is a chore too. That 455 was just too easy!
Nice trick with the intake! Car show folks are going to be tapping it with their fingers. You can tell them it's a carbon-silicon alloy (which makes up about 5% of cast iron)!
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Dear Bill, Walt, Brian, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Well son, thats an Edelhoser all right. Not my perfect choice, but its new and was gifted to me. I owe the gifter a debt of gratitude; he's sent me two full boxes of T/A kinda stuff with very little dyno time only for gratis, just pay shipping.
Very clever! Certainly that will make a tale at car shows!
Does your dipstick use a tube, or direct into the block? My 455 is a 1974 with a tube. I pulled the tube out and replaced it with a 1970 stick, sans the tube. The 64's V6 had a stick only as well. Dump the tube (always hated them!) and adjust just the stick. Do it after an oil change so you know its good.
Thanks for the offer but I really don't think I can give up on the tube. Here is a photo of the current setup on Biquette's engine:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/How-to-thread-dipstick-tube/i-MWPgG9p/0/9158d515/X2/Biquette%27s%20engine%20dipstick%20and%20tube-X2.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/How-to-thread-dipstick-tube/i-MWPgG9p/A)
Even with the tube it is difficult to reach and because the headers are so hot, even in this position checking the engine oil with the engine warm is a challenge to avoid being burned. Without a tube, it would be just about impossible to reach even with the engine completely cold.
Took a bunch of pics of the carb for 1965Special... email me when you have the time!
I was just curious because Biquette ended up with an Edelbrock carburetor between 2010 and 2012. After that, I've switched to a FAST Sportsman electronic fuel injection system (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2719.msg17500.html#msg17500) and I much prefer that.
Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Not quite ready to pull the jack stands Walt... Its a ground clearance thing LOL. ME AND THE GROUND! Gonna do some floor work today and get that outa the way. Shifter, speedo cable, old pipes (1), and start fitting up stuff for a drive shaft. Right now the rear stands have the diff. sagging on the arms, so thats gotta get jacked up to get a good measurement for a running length on the drive shaft; center to center on the U joints.
Still hafta get the rugs and seat back in and then the shifter boot stuff... Never a dull moment eh??? Bill
https://youtu.be/-q_NtE37VPY
https://youtu.be/-q_NtE37VPY (https://youtu.be/-q_NtE37VPY)
Which youtube link works??
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who also do video,
https://youtu.be/-q_NtE37VPY
https://youtu.be/-q_NtE37VPY (https://youtu.be/-q_NtE37VPY)
Which youtube link works??
Both links work fine and take you to the same video. I'm running a mile a minute today so I couldn't sit down and watch them. Well, actually my computer also provides music for the house and so viewing a video . . . . kind of clashes! I downloaded the video so we can watch it tonight on our living room TV.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Be warned pal... at the Fortress of Solitude, I tend to talk to myself LOL... sometimes the language aint purty haha... Bill
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So the gap widens... Brian, can you point out whats what here?? I need to pull the wheel anyway for a loose signal stalk. Needs a drop of loctite. Just an AH-HA moment! I know what the AH is for. Its as bad as not being able to figure out how to adjust the seat belts too LOL.
Got the trans filled with some GL4 oil. It took 3-1/2 pints excluding the mess haha. Finished up routing the speedo cable. I have the OEM cable for the 3 speed with the bullet if anyone needs it. Front seat and rugs are back in and secure. Finished up the shifter install and the boot with ALL screws present or accounted for sir! I power washed the rug last week. New ones next year with paint and a headliner.
I need an antiquities exspurt to verify yay or nay on the mats. I cant see gramma buying nice heavy duty rubber T-Bird mats. I hate to cut a hole in this one if its "special". Front and rear match.
More pics to follow... Bill
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Save the drumroll... Shifter all done; looks like somebody came and did it LOL... Speedo cable routing to the starboard side speedo drive. Even had a chance to take a breaak and play drive the car for a while. Bill
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Bill , that shifter install looks quite professional. Nice work !
I'm sure those mats are an aftermarket product and not a Buick item.
Loren
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Great seat belts. I'm still looking for two more for Roxy's Riviera.
Loren
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Thanks! But how do they work?? Bill
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No seat belt instructions eh? Still waiting on word about steering column adjustment vs. rag joint. I pulled the wheel today and loosened the coupling on the rag joint. gave the wheel spline a rap with a plastic mallet and the lower flange went right where its supposed to be. Tightened it up and put the wheel on and once tight the rag joint was pulled way up again. I went through this about 3 times today.
Does the sheet metal screw/clamp at he bottom of the column hold that adjustment? I hate to sacrifice another day to pull the column out and another to put it back in. Theres bigger fish to fry right now. Answers? Comments?? Questions???
Also put the wiper motor and pump back together... Johnny did a great job pulling and tossing the parts. I managed to find the 3 special hold down screws, but no grommets. Those are special as well. Theres a sleeve inside so you dont overtighten and it makes a ground as well. Pulled a set off a 1972 spare wiper motor and it was a spot on fit. Had to adjust the ground strap for a better fit. Pulled all the plugs apart and wire brushed the connectors. Need help on that column problem! Bill
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Does the sheet metal screw/clamp at he bottom of the column hold that adjustment?
....
Yes! As Brian mentioned, that clamp is what maintains the gap at the steering wheel collar to column gap. Just be sure everything is in it's proper place... the turn signal switch and the thingy that trips it.... it's been to long for me to give more details!
The u-clamp which holds the column to the lower dash gives a little adjustment of the column to the rag joint. Get the car on all 4 wheels before you mess with that. Jackstands at the cowl will allow the frame to flex a little and affect the column to steering box length. Jackstands there will certainly affect front fender to door gap clearance!
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Yeah... I understand the sag for body panel gaps; I need to keep it in the air for the U joint centers' measurement. Once that and the rear 1/4 brake line is done, and rear shocks, it can be set back on her feet. The only alternative is to get the jack stands farther forward like under the front sway bar. ws
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The gap between the wheel and the cup is adjusted by moving the shaft sleeve (the part that the steering shaft is encased).
it is the "tube" that goes through the firewall. You need to loosen the bearing retainer in the engine bay side where the tube is located. There is a clamp in that side. Loosen it Then you need to loosed the clamps and attaching hardware on the dash side and you should be able to move the tube towards the steering wheel.
Look at it and see if you can figure it out. If not, post back and I will try and get pics.
And, yeah, try putting a pervertable on jack stands and the various "shifts" to all things that matter.
I did some work, then put the beastie on the ground and all sorts of things went wonky... :tard:
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Dear Bill, Walt, Michael and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
No seat belt instructions eh?
Unfortunately I can't help you because my wagon is a Special and didn't have retracting seat belts. In addition, the belts were black instead of chrome. I didn't even know retracting belts were available in 1965 so I ended up upgrading the seat belts in the front by adapting the 1968 retracting type. At least the 1968 belts I found were also black. I put the original 1965 belts in the back seat and 1968 belts look close enough to be period correct and consistent with the Special trim level.
The Skylark and higher trim levels had retracting seat belts apparently since 1964. So can anybody explain to Bill how they work? (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/anyone_sign.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Mine has the "open bale" type of retractor at the door sides. Those have to get fully extended and clicked to the chrome part and pulled tight. The chrome part looks like it should have a trap door to lift and release the belt for adjustment. Chinaman was involved in this design before the Judges sent him to the gulag for life.
Put out a Mayday for some wiper washer hose clips and a nozzle... found the stuff including the screen and all the screws while excavating the archaeological site in the trunk. The mayday was rescinded. So the entire cowl is back together and painted even.
Pulled the steering wheel again this morning, pushed the shaft down so the rag joint was closed proppa, and then adjusted the lower stalk clamp and re-assembled. Its all good now.
I also played with the new 1969 dual master cylinder. I just bolted it up before, like 2 months ago and just discovered the pedal was as hard as a rock. Pulled that all apart again down to the pedal linkage and taking the booster off the firewall, and found the push rod to be too long. The dual unit takes one that 1-3/8" shorter. I had a spare from the '72 XGS to compare and swipe an O ring from. The r&r piece had one O ring and the OEM had 2 and one of those was cracked. I cut it off to length, and spun the nose round in the lathe.
Pedal job is history now, including adjusting the stoplight switch etc etc...
I made up some bad words today LOL... ws
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Thanks! But how do they work?? Bill
I imagine that these do not have retractors .
If you are referring to being able to pull the belt through the buckle , I have found that old belt webbing gets stiff and will not pull through the buckle . Another issue I have come across is that the part inside the buckle that keeps the tension on the belt, becomes corroded and will stick to the belt webbing. With a couple of pointers from Dan A , I finally came up with a process to disassemble the buckle and not damage it in the process . Then the internals can be cleaned. Some guys will clean the belt webbing , but not what I would suggest though to have safe belts. Old belts deteriorate, the webbing and especially the stitching. It is wise to have new webbing installed if you want to use the original hardware.
There are companies that install new webbing.
Loren
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Does the sheet metal screw/clamp at he bottom of the column hold that adjustment? I hate to sacrifice another day to pull the column out and another to put it back in. Theres bigger fish to fry right now. Answers? Comments?? Questions???
Need help on that column problem! Bill
Yes that clamp holds the adjustment. Both Walt and Michael have made good points. Having someone pushing down on the steering wheel while you adjust that clamp will make it easier too.
Loren
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So once the wheel was off and the clamp loosened, I was able to tap the stem down with a mallet and have it hold position until I could tighten the clamp in the corrected spot. Then the wheel went back on and everything was hinky-dinky...
So whats the secret to disassembling the buckle? Both of the fronts(maybe the rears too?) are in the last known position from 38 years ago! Ive tried to relieve the pressure by pushing in one and then both tabs to no avail. The release part is good with the half that you lift to release, but towards the secure side looks like a trap door (with the tri-shield) that will either open, or slide back 1/8". I can just move them with a screw driver and dont want to damage either one. I dont use them personally, but if Barney Fife is being nosy, I want to be able to click it to beat the ticket LOL... Bill
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Dear Bill, Loren, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . .
I made up some bad words today LOL... ws
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Isn't it great how working on classic cars brings out the creativity in all of us! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/badwords.gif) . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
So whats the secret to disassembling the buckle? Both of the fronts(maybe the rears too?) are in the last known position from 38 years ago!
So did your car have rear seat belts? Biquette certainly didn't. Dad bought some aftermarket belts probably around 1970 for us kiddies.
Ive tried to relieve the pressure by pushing in one and then both tabs to no avail. The release part is good with the half that you lift to release, but towards the secure side looks like a trap door (with the tri-shield) that will either open, or slide back 1/8". I can just move them with a screw driver and dont want to damage either one.
What are you trying to get dismantled? Is the problem that the belt webbing is stuck in the last setting of 38 years ago? Here is a side view of Biquette's original seat belt buckle:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-qHGHnRJ/0/e7822e24/XL/Biquette%27s%20original%201965%20seat%20belt%20buckle%20-%20side-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-qHGHnRJ/A)
I believe the outer plastic case is held by the large rivet at the right. I don't know how you could remove it. Perhaps some one else knows how.
If the problem is the webbing perhaps you can work the fabric free. The mechanism is probably the same as Biquette's:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-jmtBD8P/0/8b38aa8a/XL/Biquette%27s%20original%201965%20seat%20belt%20buckle%20-%20webbing-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-jmtBD8P/A)
You might be able to get some lubricant in between the outer casing and the inner steel structure that has the sliding adjustment.
There is a lot of safety information printed on the back of Biquette's buckle. Here is a photograph of that for posterity:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-PckdDhq/0/e076e2cc/XL/Biquette%27s%20original%201965%20seat%20belt%20buckle%20-%20instructions-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-PckdDhq/A)
Even if this isn't a that helpful perhaps it will stimulate a more constructive suggestion from another board member.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Beg to differ LOL... With yours, you hold the buckle perpendicular to the belt and it'll slip through. Turned flat and latched, its immobilized. With mine, both the belt and the whip go through the bottom of the buckle and you feed one end in and pull the other end out; I think. Hmmm. Its a Houdini job!
So today I joined the fan club; my own! The fan that came with the 455 was a 19-1/2 (20") fan and the shroud for '64 was 18" . I had to trim the fan down to about 17" to accomodate engine torque. Laid it all out and made accurate cuts, cleaned, painted and installed. Also had to make water pump studs. Todds' die cast co. was out of them, and nobody in town had studs. Done.
Trip to Crack Auto for 25 feet of 1/4" brake line to the rear, and the hose above the differential, a T-stat and a gasket (not included anymore; dang chinaman).
Started to play with some wires. Going with a one wire alternator and an HEI, so the resistor wire for the coil has to come out and a regular wire goes in. I hope the plug comes off the ignition switch. Yeah or nay?? Bill
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Bill,
Hint: Remove the lock cylinder, then take off the retaining nut to remove the ignition switch from the dash before trying to remove the connector on the back. Connector has three latches on it that are pretty much impossible to un-do with the switch mounted without destroying them.
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Thanks Brian.. is that the paper clip trick? After the cylinder is out, does the ring just unscrew like the glove box? Im guessing the resistor wire for the coil comes "hot" off the switch. At least thats what the book looks like. Thats gotta get swapped for an HEI 12V wire (non resistor). A bulkhead connector swap would be sooo much easier. Let me know whatcha tinks OK?
Picked up 2 new wiper blades yesterday. A direct fit into the stainless TRICO arms. That was a painless job. Cant put the arms on until I'm sure the splines are timed in the down position. Maybe a battery charger job today... Bill
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Resistor wire is built into the engine harness, so power is 12v at the firewall connector behind the fusebox. You can easily un-wrap the engine harness and replace the resistor wire with a regular piece if wire, then re-wrap the harness. Ign lock cyl comes out with a piece of wire in the acc position as you said.
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You're most likely going to have to re-wire the engine harness for the 455. Another option for the ignition wire would be to use a relay and use the original pink wire to trigger the relay. By doing that, you can pull direct 12v from battery to power the ignition. All the wires in the engine harness for the ignition are 18 gauge wire. Most HEI need 10 gauge to handle the amp draw.
As for the seat belt buckle. I use a couple of tools called a skin wedge to lever the pieces apart. They are a little tricky to disassemble . I'm not sure I could give adequate instruction how to get them apart here.
Loren
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Well... Popped the bulkhead connector apart, AGAIN, and immediately saw the resistor wire, and things being as they are, I managed to destroy the pin connector coming out of the block.
WHERE CAN I GET ONE OR A PACKAGE OF 10??
There was no glue left on the wire loom tape, so I am upgrading to the slit black corrugated plastic sleeve stuff with a few tabs of tape to keep it looking good. In the middle of this, Pat called asking for a hand with groceries. So here I am for a few minutes.
If anyone has the connector or wants to cut the engine side plug off a bad harness, I'll gladly take it!!! This is a NO A.C. unit BTW.
Thanks guys... Bill
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Well... Popped the bulkhead connector apart, AGAIN, and immediately saw the resistor wire, and things being as they are, I managed to destroy the pin connector coming out of the block.
WHERE CAN I GET ONE OR A PACKAGE OF 10??
Thanks guys... Bill
Bill , I have new ones in stock. I'll get a couple on the way to you. By the way , the speedo cable arrived. Thank you
Loren
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Thanks Loren! Thats what makes this a great community! Glad the cable showed up. I wire wheeled the trans end, but didnt have a chance to clean it proppa! Bill
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Thanks Loren! Thats what makes this a great community! Glad the cable showed up. I wire wheeled the trans end, but didnt have a chance to clean it proppa! Bill
Both cable and trans end look great. I'll get 10 of those terminals out to you USPS tomorrow. By the way they are called twin lock terminals.
Thanks again,
Loren
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33,000 easy gramma miles on that cable Loren! Hope it works for ya...
Got my break in gages set up today. The mechanical temp gage bulb needs a different base fitting. The gage came outa my 72, but the base is somewhere in oblivion. I grabbed a fitting outa the drawer today, but it doesnt draw down tight. Otherwise its a "GO". This is what I need, in 1/2" pipe tho...
https://www.stewartwarner.com/product/temperature-thread-adapter-nut-pn-72446-f/ (https://www.stewartwarner.com/product/temperature-thread-adapter-nut-pn-72446-f/)
Got the battery cables mocked up for testing. I can park the battery on a stool for testing now, instead of a battery charger. How archaic! The brass plated clamp is a good'n from the boat pile. Ordered a NEW, one wire DELCOTRON alternator from ebay today for 57.50 with free shipping, no core. Cant beat that! I was gonna get a chrome unit from another seller, but he couldnt answer my questions, so Im going with the OEM look.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-10SI-Alternator-High-output-110AMP-1-wire-Self-Exciting-SBC-BBC-GM-7127B/291964650440?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-10SI-Alternator-High-output-110AMP-1-wire-Self-Exciting-SBC-BBC-GM-7127B/291964650440?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649)
Spent another two hours spring cleaning the other shop. Now I can store the engine hoist and new rally wheels and a ton of other stuff in there so I can do some booty duty on the Special... Rear shocks, springs and brake lines... Oh, and the drive shaft. Ill have that stuff done before the new alternator shows up Tuesday; I hope! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
. . . .
Ordered a NEW, one wire DELCOTRON alternator from ebay today for 57.50 with free shipping, no core. Cant beat that! I was gonna get a chrome unit from another seller, but he couldnt answer my questions, so Im going with the OEM look.
. . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Oh da' shame! Not a chrome alternator? Don't you know it don't mean a thing if it don't got that bling! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Dont wanna draw any un-due attention to the judges! Bill
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"... and the judge took a giant gasp as he was about to render his decision..."
Well Wun Fun Tung got me again. The new alternator came in today from Virginia, supposedly built in Jooroozlem by the PLO, but really came from the gulag. Par for the course for 50.00 ya know? Hung Lo designed the case to be about .050" too tall on a screw boss on the backside. If I tightened it something wouldve busted for sure. AH SO!! Took a file and swiped about .060 off for .010 clearance... Put that in yer rice bowl and smoke it!
Core support bushings are missing a few parts. I think these are the lowers for each side, but missing the tops. Another standstill LOL.
Toy radiator should be OK for a dyno run around the block, but capacity will be marginal. Suction side (bottom fitting ) is OK, but the tops is gonna take a weird hose to connect... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who prefer "made in da' USofA!"
"... and the judge took a giant gasp as he was about to render his decision..."
Well Wun Fun Tung got me again. The new alternator came in today from Virginia, supposedly built in Jooroozlem by the PLO, but really came from the gulag. Par for the course for 50.00 ya know? Hung Lo designed the case to be about .050" too tall on a screw boss on the backside. If I tightened it something wouldve busted for sure. AH SO!! Took a file and swiped about .060 off for .010 clearance... Put that in yer rice bowl and smoke it!
Bummer on the alternator made in dat utter place, but indeed it was a bargain. You can find alternators made in the United States, but they will cost ya'.
Toy radiator should be OK for a dyno run around the block, but capacity will be marginal. Suction side (bottom fitting ) is OK, but the tops is gonna take a weird hose to connect...
Gulp! That radiator looks small even for a 300 V-8. Is it worth the hassles to getting it to fit considering the weird hose issue? Perhaps you should switch into scrounging mode and see if you can't scare up a radiator that is a bit more substantial.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Gulp! That radiator looks small even for a 300 V-8. Is it worth the hassles to getting it to fit considering the weird hose issue? Perhaps you should switch into scrounging mode and see if you can't scare up a radiator that is a bit more substantial.
I agree. I need to get the core support in before I try anything for a fit. Hopefully have some core support bushings coming this week (wink wink) so I can move onto that phase. SUGGESTIONS Obi Wan Kenobi??
Took the wire cutters to the bomber today. What a relief. A one wire alternator to the starter post, that also feeds the fuses. A single ignition wire thats hot when cranking or just "ON", and one wire from the switch to the solenoid for the crank signal. All that old regulator crap is GAWN. Fresh clean connections and a few soldered joints.
Took 5 minutes to pull the starboard side manifold to get at the starter. Not show quality, but then I bring the show with me LOL. Bill
https://youtu.be/iEM9xEVd5lc
https://youtu.be/iEM9xEVd5lc (https://youtu.be/iEM9xEVd5lc)
So far the dome light works, right rear turn signal works. wipers and washers work, radio hummed then quit (FUSE??), and no sparks disconnecting battery in the dark. Im good with that. Im right where I wanna be... for tonight! One pic shows a dangling participle... I think its the GEN light wire from the regulator.
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
I agree. I need to get the core support in before I try anything for a fit. Hopefully have some core support bushings coming this week (wink wink) so I can move onto that phase. SUGGESTIONS Obi Wan Kenobi??
What are you hoping to find? Are you hoping to find a part from a donor vehicle or an aftermarket radiator? Biquette has a cross-flow radiator from TA-Performance that is listed to fit 1964-67 A-bodies. So that would be the field of possible donor vehicles. People have been very creative with aftermarket radiators if you want to explore that route. The board "down da' hall" probably is the best reference for that. Any other suggestions 65GS.com folks?
Took 5 minutes to pull the starboard side manifold to get at the starter. Not show quality, but then I bring the show with me LOL.
Nice to see the engine turning over!
So far the dome light works, right rear turn signal works. wipers and washers work, radio hummed then quit (FUSE??)
That's all progress. Are you going to make an effort to get the OEM radio to work or is that just a luxury item?
Keep up the good work!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The first sound that radio made was a loud MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM, then nada. A.M. sucked 40 years ago and im sure it hasnt improved LOL. Probably some stoopid blooteef thing in the glove box to make more noise than the monster motor.
Pretty tapped out on SIRUS radio too. If anyone listens to it with a tuned eaar, youll notice that even tho you are paying for original artists (copyrighted stuff) a lot of the songs lyrics were changed by dubbing in a few key words, or being played by tribute bands. Ill be happy with a 2" exhaust blowing outa da back! Bill
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Radiator.....
The generic aluminum radiators fit the late 65-67 well, but your 64 had the downflow rad as original. It has a different bottom cradle than the crossflow rad support. I don't know if there is enough difference to make the alum rad not fit.
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Dear Walt, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Radiator.....
The generic aluminum radiators fit the late 65-67 well, but your 64 had the downflow rad as original. It has a different bottom cradle than the crossflow rad support. I don't know if there is enough difference to make the alum rad not fit.
Yes Walt you are correct. I was assuming that Bill was going to get his hands on a cross-flow radiator support.
The first sound that radio made was a loud MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM, then nada. A.M. sucked 40 years ago and im sure it hasnt improved LOL.
Indeed AM has been in decline since the early 1970s. One of the first "mods" I made to my trusty wagon was to solder extra leads to the speaker so I could connect my cassette reporter. That was *so* much better than the lame AM stations of the late 1970s!
Probably some stoopid blooteef thing in the glove box to make more noise than the monster motor.
. . . .
Pretty tapped out on SIRUS radio too. If anyone listens to it with a tuned eaar, youll notice that even tho you are paying for original artists (copyrighted stuff) a lot of the songs lyrics were changed by dubbing in a few key words, or being played by tribute bands. Ill be happy with a 2" exhaust blowing outa da back!
SIRUS is probably being nickel and dimed to death by the penny-pinching accountants. These services are relatively expensive and are losing listeners to Internet-based alternatives. So cost cutting is the order of the day and of course that won't please the listeners.
I have a very large collection of music that I started uploading to my computer starting around 1990. So it is easy for me to make a playlist on my computer, download it to my smart-phone and just let it shuffle through that. That's a lot of work if you haven't been doing that all along. You can still get access to some Internet services like Pandora. That might be better than SIRUS and a number of car stereos support direct connections to those services. Perhaps you can scrounge yourself one of those stereos. They have been around for a number of years already. I put on into our 2000 Buick Century back in 2015.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Ferget the radio stuff... thats just noise anyway when theres a monster from the IDD roaring in front of you. Whats the make up on a cross flow radiator support? I hope yer not talking the entire core support, rather just a cut n' weld chunk out of a later model core support.
Hopefully, Ill be able to get mine mounted and see how the radiator fits with room for expansion.
On another note, got my package from Pegasus Racing (throttle pcs) and now have a nice full functioning throttle; from idle to WOT. Also cleaned the heck outa my drive shaft. I was gonna do the cut and shorten job myself, but found a guy that does them for 112.50 including balancing and 25.00 per joint (Spicers) installed. At least he wont be getting a rusty old POS. Bill
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Dateline Two Rivers... Hot off the wires !!! Got that linkage swivel yesterday and with 1/2 hour had an operating gas pedal. Cool!! Cleaned up the driveshaft (CLEAN!), and primed and painted it. Dont want to take the DS guy a dirty POS. Thinking about a barber stripe on it when its done. Thats just to yizz off the bald yudges LOL...
Some other stuff showing blasted and epoxy primed core support stuff. Johnny and his new tool box had the foresight to do this much anyway. Standby fellas; theres probably some unicorn semen missing here too LOL...
Thanks again to Loren and TrunkMonkey for the help/advice! Bill
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.....Whats the make up on a cross flow radiator support? I hope yer not talking the entire core support, rather just a cut n' weld chunk out of a later model core support.
.....
From what I read here, it's just the bottom piece..... the 2+' long lower cradle. Someone else will have to give you details, I don't have any downflows in my Buick collection.
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Walt is correct in that the bottom part of the core support is different. It is wider , front to back in the piece that the radiator sits on. Hope that makes some sense.
You can remove that lower piece from your '64 support and weld in one from a '65. But whoa there fella, not all '65 Buick Skylark core supports are created equal. The early '65s had a down flow radiator same as the '64. That means the lower part of the early '65 is the same size as what you have. Oh.. and you can't use a '65 core support with your '64 fenders either. Just doesn't fit. Been there and tried that.
Loren
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Dear Bill, Walt, Loren, and mid-60s Buick restorers,
You can remove that lower piece from your '64 support and weld in one from a '65. But whoa there fella, not all '65 Buick Skylark core supports are created equal. The early '65s had a down flow radiator same as the '64. That means the lower part of the early '65 is the same size as what you have. Oh.. and you can't use a '65 core support with your '64 fenders either. Just doesn't fit. Been there and tried that.
Okay, mea culpa. I didn't realize that so much had to be changed between 1964 and 65 to fit the cross-flow radiator. It might be a good idea to send a PM to Ted Nagel:
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=32 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=32)
He put a Buick big-block into his 1964 Special wagon and gave me some tips on making the conversion for Biquette. As far as I remember all he did was has the radiator rebuilt with additional cores to absorb the extra heat. Another possibility is finding an aluminum radiator that would fit in the 1964 footprint. Perhaps you can get a model at a bargain price. Certainly a aluminum radiator will give you extra peace of mind - at least as long as the fans are working! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/D'oh.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Whoaaaaa Silver! I think I need to get the core support in (MU) and see whats what. From what I can tell at a glance is that the two lower saddles are bolted in and theres a bunch of other holes wider apart, in symmetry. Possible the 64 saddles can get removed and later ones installed at a wider stance?
Its too bad that 63-64 Novas didnt run 427's and 409's! I know capacity is gonna be an issue :violent5:, but the two row V6 rad. should run OK for a shop run on water(frugal). Id at least like to get the cam run in and some edges worn off the rings. In another few weeks, Ill have the XGS back here to help model something more substantial.
Tomorrow Im gonna knock out the brake lines and clean and paint the rear end (for esthetics) and by then some core support install parts should be crossing the big muddy LOL... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Another week or so and it might be time to take the turbine off of turning gear. Bill
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Whoaaaaa Silver! I think I need to get the core support in (MU) and see whats what. From what I can tell at a glance is that the two lower saddles are bolted in and theres a bunch of other holes wider apart, in symmetry. Possible the 64 saddles can get removed and later ones installed at a wider stance?
Bill
That could work. I have a couple of sets of the lower radiator mounts that bolt in. I don't know if they would fit the tank of a four row radiator core or fit your core support.
Loren
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C'mon man, betwen the sawzall, cut off grinder, Miller MIG and a pneumatic pop riveter, anything is possible. Only hold back is your imagination. :alien: After I hear this thing run, Ill know what direction to Run In.
Got plugs, wires, cap and rotor today for the HEI. Thats for tomorrow while the place warms up. After that its the two steel lines for the rear brakes and start bleeding. That will complete the whole system, minus wheel cylinders. If theres a leaker, we'll cross that bridge when we get to the River Kwai. Cien por Ciento.
The worst is gonna be cleaning and painting down there. Not much for grease, but road mud? By the mile! After lunch Im gonna hang the core support and get some of that figured out.
Bill, Golden Oldie 65 on V8 told me that the mystery rubber weatherstrip is off the leading edge of the cowl. The cowl is a tight fitting piece; maybe the rear hood lip?
Anyways, we are moving right along. Right now I am where I wanna be. Showered and surfing LOL... Bill
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Bill, take pics and measurements of your lower core support, front to back, and the two "side panels" width between each other and the top to bottom.
My '64 convertible had a 300 with the small downflow and I put in a 1965 GS crossflow.
I purchased a "better cooling" unit so I still have the 65 GS radiator, and the 64 downflow.
The GS radiator sets in the lower support, and since I did not have the correct brackets for the bottom. I used thick rubber "comfort mats" with a "honeycomb" that are about 3/4 of an inch and another on the top under the top plate as well as the top plate support rubber isolators and I made a pair of side panels that are 90 degree, bolted to the core support side panels and the 90's hold support the radiator front to back and keep it "pressed" against the front.
It is solid, and I can take some pics this weekend.
If you can give me you measurements, I will compare them to my car before you start cutting, as you may not need to, but only fashion proper support for a radiator, and I can give you the dimensions of what I have that fits.
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Get that battery charged Mike! Up early today which means an early start! Its 0530hrs here now which means an 0800 start. Thats good! Seiously tho, thanks much and I will get as many numbers as I can. Theres been a few guys here that have really been a help, and whilst in between and taking a breather, i'd like to offer a giant THANK YOU for the help and mental core support LOL... Bill
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That mystery weatherstrip piece does indeed go on the front edge of the cowl panel. It seals to the back of the hood when the hood is closed.
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So Im guessing this is the orientation?? Thumb towards the trunk? Bill
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The bottom photo.....thumb to trunk. The cowl has to be loose or removed to fit right. As you see in the photo....the large gap is closed as you shut the hood. Installing rubbers should be taught by parents not the web.....lol.
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(http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2015/04/30/20150430073328-41b333b7.gif)
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So the third world country transplant goes into the pharmacy for a box of rubbers...
"That'll be $9.99 plus tax" replies the pharmacist.
"Plus tax???" was the reply. "I though they rolled on..."., Bill
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Dear Dan, Michael, Bill, and 65GS.com fans of "unexpected meanings" . . . . .
([url]http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2015/04/30/20150430073328-41b333b7.gif[/url])
So the third world country transplant goes into the pharmacy for a box of rubbers...
"That'll be $9.99 plus tax" replies the pharmacist.
"Plus tax???" was the reply. "I though they rolled on..."., Bill
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Ouch! Groan! . . . Yuck!! . . . . . . Garh!!! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/garrh_!.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I was thinking all of this is just wrong.....and then he had to remind me that the cowl piece was likely less to buy than it would cost a young lad ($9.99 plus tacks)to remain a free sailor. Inflation hits everyone sooner or later. It is likely cheaper to stay afloat and only come to shore to work on the car hobby.
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YIKES!! Somehow that really makes sense! Im gonna think about that one for a while LOL...
So, I am in need of 4 stock Buick plug wire clamps that go on the valve cover studs. Ive always liked the stock approach.
Got my new HEI wires today and they were at least two feet TOO long. Unbelievable! So I traded them in for a universal set. Is this the cheapo crimper I need to do the connectors on 8mm wires?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-7-way-Crimper-Tool-For-Spark-Plug-Wires-CT-1-Dyna-Tek-Coils-Wires/360982906920?hash=item540c420828:g:LMkAAOSwwNVTuy2h (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-7-way-Crimper-Tool-For-Spark-Plug-Wires-CT-1-Dyna-Tek-Coils-Wires/360982906920?hash=item540c420828:g:LMkAAOSwwNVTuy2h)
Got the brakes done in total sans the bleeding. Thats later. Got the rear springs and shocks done so no more whale rolls on the floor and crud in my eyes! Tomorrow I finally get to start on the core support. Im burning daylight. The boat work kinda starts Thursday for a day here and there.
Got the cowl weatherstrip back on today and managed a quick massage with some tripoli on the stainless. Felt sooo good! Gotta go spend some time with SWMBO!
Bill
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Thanks Bill for the progress report and pics!
Keep up da' good work!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Last few days ive been going through the motions just doing what needs done without much thought. I find myself walking in circles talking TO the radio in the shop. I must be getting MIBBY!
Got the core support MU'd, and the OEM rad is wayyy to far to the engine. I am looking for a 65 and up cross flow unit with the steel top plate that holds the two rubbers(!) and the two bottom saddle for the same. A guy on V8 has a few 66-67s he's parting out that look close.
Spent a few hours yesterday bench bleeding the MC and still get a little air in the tubes. Its a recon Cardone unit; does it need to go back? It sure recirc'd a bunch of dirty juice. Hmm. Never a dull moment ya know.
Rear end should be drip dried by now so I can clean the base and cover and procure a new gasket. Its a 8.2 with a 3:23 gear so thats good.
After a ton of measurements, The drive shaft looks good in the length dept. Today its going in for a front U joint and change the yoke from the 3 seed to the 4 speed. If it still fits after that, Ill pop it out for a rear joint. If not its gonna hafta get cut up in Green Bay.... anudder road trip. Bill
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Hi Bill,
I think I've got a cross flow core support and top bracket. I'll check and post later today.
Chuck
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PM sent!
Thank you sooo much Chuck!! Please let me know what you find. If you want to ship out some pics, that would be great too! Bill at yachtsman36@charter.net
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Bill,
I don't think changing to the 65 cross-flow core support is going to fix the fan to radiator clearance issue. Looking at your fan clutch, it looks like you may have the one with the longer shaft. There is one with a shorter shaft that puts the fan closer to the engine. Hard to tell from a pic and only seeing one of the clutch options. If you have them side by side, it is very obvious.
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Thanks for getting back to me on this Brian. Right now the fan clutch has about 3/4" to enter and start and tighten the 4 nuts on the studs. Thats almost a 2 index finger job as it is. There is a shorter snout 455 water pump, but that would involve changing all kinds of pulleys for proper depth etc.
The plan is to get a '65-67 3 core cross flow upper support plate, and trim the forward 3-4 inches off and re-drill the 3 mounting holes. The bottom 2 saddles would need to go forward as well. Ill hafta deal with a shroud after the fact. The 64 is a unicorn anyway with this stuff. Its gotten to be a bit more involved than i anticipated. I'll probably end up going with an aluminum cooler. These guys seem to be about the best bang for the buck. They've responded with ideas but no one mentioned mounting methods. Hmmm.
https://www.championradiators.com/ (https://www.championradiators.com/)
Here's a few pics with and without the radiator in place, and my neighbors 65 8 second street car. Annuder monster! Bill
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Will the rad fit if you lean the top until it is almost touching the upper cross piece? That's how the rads fit in the GS's. They don't lean back like you show.
There are a couple of different top plates for the 65-67 crossflow rads. The GS version (and other hd cooling) have a wider (longer) recess for the insulator to fit the larger side tanks of a 4 row core. The standard top plates have a shorter recess to fit 2 row tanks. 1967 is similar but takes different rummer insulators.
The rad 'holders' are just rubber pieces that hold the rad at the tank/core flange. They are not sophisticated brackets.
Maybe I can get some pics in the near future.
I have a Griffin 26242 alum rad in one of my cars. The inlets/outlets fit a Nailhead, you will need them in opposite locations. But here it is on Summit's site. You can likely find one the same size (27.5 x 19) with in/out in the correct location for your 455. Both Summit and Jegs have their own branded rads for under $200.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26242-x (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26242-x)
I still don't know if it will fit your downflow bottom support cradle. I figured someone else would've explained the difference by now.
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Hey Walt... the core support is only loosely bolted in. Its tilting back at the top about an inch or so, Id guess.
I hate to hang sheet metal while still playing with brakes. So its leaning back at the top far enough for the shroud bolt to hit the fan tips. That could net me an inch clearance on the top. The best route for me to go is to "S" can the down flow stuff. Thats soo Flathead V8-ish LOL. Theres almost 27-3/8" (+ or -) between the the CS uprights. A member here is getting and upper crossflow mount to me. I figured I can trim some off the front, re-drill the three holes and move it forward so theres about 1/2" between the rad and the CS. I believe the later lower mounts bolt into the core support lower frame as well. Maybe some notching down there to move them forwards as well. Ideally I'd like to see about 2 inches between the fan and the fins. Make sense?
Luckily, this is a GM project and not some weird dodge or ford where everything fitting is "iffy" at best. I love the input ... please keep it coming. If the front clip were back on, Id have some constants to work with, but for now, Im still measuring "Air". Bill
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So the core support is installed (90%) so I could install front fenders etc. so I might as well do the sheet metal alignment to see where I'm at. Im gonna take a top plate (is this a "header"?) and trim it forward and redrill the three bolts. I should gain a good 2-3 inches, with later (67ish?) mounts on the bottom also trimmed to move forward. Just trying to get my head outa the box LOL.
The inside dimension between the vertical shroud mounts is 27". A little trim here or there and some weld tacks, or pop rivets and I think itll be getting there.
Picked up the driveshaft yesterday with two new joints after a trial fit so thats going in today, along with a fresh master cylinder. The brand new chinaman unit wouldn't pump juice to the rears. Looks like Im gonna hafta go the full 15 rounds for a decision!
Car is on the tires up front and Im liking the stance. The gasser look w/o front inners fenders is temporary. The top hose pic shows the difference from this to the 72's 33" wide radiator. Pretty substantial.
Chuck sent a top plate via Dan A. that I am gonna try to pick up today if the stars align. To both: Thanks for the help.
Give me a call for a reconnoiter. 630 388 8882 Bill
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,,,, Im gonna take a top plate (is this a "header"?) and trim it forward and redrill the three bolts. I should gain a good 2-3 inches, with later (67ish?) mounts on the bottom also trimmed to move forward.....
When installed as original (65-67), the crossflow rad should be almost touching that upper crossmember. It's not necessary to modify the top plate.
I think the problem with putting a crossflow into a 64 is the depth of the lower saddle/crosspiece? Can anyone confirm?
Here's a pic of the alum rad in a 66. The saddle indent in the top plate/cover is longer for the GS to fit the wider/thicker tanks (see pic). A rubber insulator fits into that saddle (avail from CARS, about $15 ea). That saddle should fit over the tank/core joint, but the alum rad is slightly different dimension so it doesn't match up.
You'll figure this all out once you get the parts there!
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Instead of the clutch fan, the 7 blade fixed fans work well for me. Will give you more rad clearance.
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Dear Bill, Walt, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
So the core support is installed (90%) so I could install front fenders etc.
I can see that the radio antenna turned out very nice! Congrats on a simple fix that worked out as needed.
Car is on the tires up front and Im liking the stance.
The B F Goodrich Radial T/As look nice. :hello2:
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . But they would even better if they were whitewalls from Diamond Back tires! (https://dbtires.com/) . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Looks like everything is coming together nicely!
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Just typed a 30 minute dissertation and it vaporized. Pat's making home made chimichangas and the juices are flowing... TTFN! Bill
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Bill, that rad cover plate is for a rad with narrow/thin tanks (V6, 300). If you get a rad with thick tanks (GS or hd cooling option), the plate will sit back further and you won't need to trim the front edge off.
Basically I'm saying don't cut it up until you get the new rad!
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WHEW! Dinner was good and we were running on empty. After that and some nice wine, Pat and i had to relax for he evening...
Today I am picking up 2 new Cooper Cobras' for the rear. The drive shaft is in an 100%. Probably about 3/4" to 1" of spline showing aft of the trans seal. Im good with that. Need to install the rear cover and fill with oil.
So Walt, with 27" of absolute width between the CS uprights, the GS or HD cooling top plate will be wider than this one? I see on yours the difference between he 3 and 4 row core, with the extra 4th row being forward. I am OK with that but still the fan clearance is an issue.
A fan is a fan, but the clutch job tosses a little alchemy into the scenario. I had an Olds Toronado (1974) that would overheat on the X-way at 70mph. The fan clutch was locked up and took extra HP to spin at speed, requiring extra throttle to get past that, hence the overheat. You mentioned running a 7 blade fixed fan. The Full time power and FAN NOISE is a concern to me. The other issue being the bore on my fan is about 3" and mounted abaft the clutch. Did you make a hub adapter to keep things on center? Thats pump guide shaft to flange, to pulley, to fan blade? If I could dump the clutch Id gain an instant 2" of face to face clearance. Thats 1/2 the problem. What about fan to belts/accy's clearance?
I needed a top plate in my hand to measure from and Chuck came through. I needed to see where I was with something. I can put my hands on a 67 GS 400 top plate and narrow that as necessary. Widening the one I have now is gonna take a bit more fabbing to make it look right.
The pics show the upper and lower mounts in relation to the CS verticals AND the curvature in the lower frame. May need to do some trimming down there eh?
I picked up a different NEW master Cylinder yesterday. I am bench bleeding it LEVEL and in a vise. This one seemed much stiffer and way less air entrapment. Hopefully its gonna work better than the previous. Crackauto wouldnt comp. me on the juice. Par for the course! What the heck is the black rubber seal supposed to do? Duhh! I know that but, there's no way to get it all in unless its trimmed or just smashed into the fit. This MC uses the short pedal shaft. Is it even necessary? Yesterdays removal was still in situ; I had trimmed an inch outa the length and managed to "get" it all in. Looked lousy and wasn't right by a long shot.
It 0400hrs and coffee is on! Bill
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I think the rubber cup in the pictures below are for a non power brake master cylinder. The seal and short plunger are part of the booster. Also the primary piston hole is deaper for a PB master, where the plunger rod fits.
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Yes the rubber cup is for manual brakes.
Loren
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Some Power brake master cylinders rebuild kits have the seal for between the cylinder and the booster, some do not. I have cleaned non rusty ones and lubed them with rubber lube and they have sealed OK. Remember the brake peddle arm has two holes for the rod, as I remember the upper is for manual and the lower for power. Also the mounting for the brake light switch, can be attached in 2 places upper for manual and lower for power brakes, if I remember correctly.
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I had Pat hit the pedal yesterday and got full travel out of the pin through the booster. I will however look at the pedal arm. Hmmm. Kinda weird, but when I changed the MC, the OEM rod was about 1-1/2" longer. It bottomed out the MC piston with zero travel left. I got a long and a short one with the new booster from the 72, so I pulled the spare shorty out and was gonna use that, but the chinaman only puts one O ring on it. The OEM has two. I cut the OEM one down to the correct length and pulled the one O ring off the new one and replaced one bad O ring on the old one. Gotta keep tha GM car all GM.
Finished bench bleeding the new MC today and installed it. Probably gonna try to bleed it tomorrow, but I ordered a power bleeder for 15.00 anyway. I only sleep 4-5 hours a night and cant afford to lose any sleep over this junk...
Picked up 2 new Cooper Cobra Tires today for the 15X7 rally wheels. The consensus was to go a bit taller than the fronts but no wider. So these are 235 R 70-15s .
The fronts are 235 X 60s. The new front springs give it about an inch or two higher in the front, so that will get leveled out with air in the back. Notice I hate to say air shocks. Oh well. The stance on the monster is going to be dramatic. Painted an overcoat on the 4 wheels and some clear just to clean them up. I think they look good and will look better with trim rings. Maybe tomorrow. I could not find a lug nut torque rating anywhere for the 64. The 72 is 100 lbs. Im thinking 80 on this with the drum brakes??? Bill
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GADS! Its been three days and seems like a month! Spent one of those days with my N.A. pal addressing the yacht. That was only about 4 hours and we'll resume with that on Thursday. Both 454s lit right off with about 5 seconds of cranking. Shocked the heck outa me!
Sooo... still messing with the radiator. Pulled the 7 blade clutch fan off today and installed the 17" 4 blade V6 fan. Tons of room. Gained about 2 full inches. Called the guy that sold me the car, and it turns out he is a Champion Aluminum Rad. sales guy. I can get one at his cost. Now to figure that out.
So not to blow off a whole day, I pulled the blasted and primed inner fenders outa the pile. Cleaned them all up and found out I am missing the two rear inner fender support brackets that go to the firewall just above the body/cowl mounts.
I AM IN DESPERATE NEED OF BOTH along with any other misc. backing plates etc. PLEASE CHECK YER STASHES guys. This is gonna be a major hold up and no way am I gonna try and make these!. I hope they are not 1964 SPECIFIC!
Car is officially a roller now with all 4 rally wheels on the floor. The first time it hit the ground, it rolled back 1 inch and rested against the garage door. LEMME OUTA HERE!!!! Bill
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Sorry Bill, but I'd guess they are unique to 64. I don't have anything like that on my 65s. :dontknow:
Good luck!
Chuck
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Look with a flashlite Chuck... even my '72 has 2 bolts and a "mud deflector" that go down there, but that one goes to another bracket on the frame rail. I thinks its more for anti-rattle than strength. Got a shop manual? This was wayyy in the last few pages. Can ya take a look for me? Now Im curious. Its that unicorn thing again! Bill
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Oh yeah, there are "mud deflectors", but they don't look like that bracket. They look like the attached picture.
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Dang it! Looks like a trip to Fab Shop 101 ! Bill
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Hi Bill, I looked in the Master Chassis Parts Book, page 1,378 front fenders & sheet metal 1964-65 Special-Skylark, but does not show the brackets you are looking for.
All of my 65 inner fenders have what Chuck has in the photo he posted.
Tony
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I've parted allot of these cars out....64 and 65 and have never seen those in any of the cars.
65 cars have the lower pointed bracket with 2 bolts. 64's had nothing other than a rubber bumper that is at the rear.
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I think thats the best news yet! And I thank you. Sometimes you tend to overthink things, and this was one of them lol. On to bigger and better things... Bill
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So I guess this is another FM put to rest. Maybe these were installed on a heavy duty towing package? Im gonna look at the book again today, but Im pretty sure it was listed as "For all models". Hope sliding the freshly painted inner fenders isnt going to be too brutal of a job. EXSPURTS??? The alignment up front is at least 90% good right now and hate to lose that! Bill
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It can be done, maybe have to protect that fresh paint with tape. My painter called that move "an old Indian trick" which I have not yet mastered.
He also left the brackets off that hold the inner fender...I had to get those back in there myself. Good luck!
Ted
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Are those the smallish two front struts? I need details LOL... Just wondering if they go in from the top or underneath? At least the wheels have never seize on the studs and all the fender bolts holes were tapped clean, bolts wire wheeled and oiled. Oh the HUMANITY!!!! I probably short changed myself; shoulda had them bolted on to the feners first. Had to have the core support in position for radiator measurements, which meant hanging fenders, which led to, oh well, you know. Bill
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From the bottom, got to roll them in there and move into place. Hardest is tucking in the outer lip and front - kinda has to all happen at once.
I caved on the 65 and removed the fenders- had a bunch of those little square nuts that had to be welded back in and proper bolts to use instead of the junk my painter used.
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Bill,
If you are looking at the body manual, it is very generic to all of the GM A-body cars for the year. I would not be surprised that even though it says "all models", it isn't for all models. My 64 Skylark does not have brackets on the inner fenders that look like the ones in the manual page you posted. It does have the deflector on the firewall behind the pass side fender well like the one in the picture Chuck posted.
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Dear Bill, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Oh yeah, there are "mud deflectors", but they don't look like that bracket. They look like the attached picture.
Not much help I suppose, but the "mud deflectors" are reproduced. They are called Fender Aprons and are available at CARS:
http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=9176 (http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=9176)
It comes with some hardware and supposedly fits 1964-65 cars. Biquette's had to be tucked back a bit because otherwise they would be too close to the exhaust headers. You may or may not have that problem.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Well, I huffed and I puffed and then tossed in the towel. Had the pass. side wheel off, and alternator removed and RF of car jacked way up and it was NO-GO. I struggled for a few hours and then pulled the fender off. Hey, all the holes are tapped with cleaned and oiled bolts, right? A half hour later I was putting the fender and inner back on the car. The drivers side was more like 30 minutes, plus an hour to re-align all the stuff, tighten it up, and install the battery tray (6 friggin' bolts on that alone!).
Actually had some time to do BS work on the engine compartment wiring harness and found a relic that still got 1980 juice in it. The tank itself (white plastic) is in shards. Found two white plastic parking lamp/signal plugs that are gonners. The black ones on the bumper are fine. Are these easy to find? Loren??
Taking Pat out to dinner tonight. Mexican. YUMMM. Next week, after Jefferson, I have a junking date on the 65 California 4 door car I posted here some time ago. Im going in with a sawzall and gloves. I want to see the lower core support (V8 w/ A.C.) and maybe a 6 blade fan. Aside from a cooling system and a pump to carb fuel line, this guy is ready to fire ! Bill
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It's not hard to find the plugs here..........I always kept everything and anything.
I have a couple of bins of hardware and other buckets of hardware........
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com parts hounds,
The tank itself (white plastic) is in shards.
Is this the windshield washer tank? You can get one from Fusick:
http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WJ6405 (http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WJ6405)
You can also get it in black for an extra ten bucks:
http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WJ6405B (http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WJ6405B)
Of course you might be able to scrounge one up for yourself, but at least you now know what you are looking for and that the Olds tank is compatible.
Found two white plastic parking lamp/signal plugs that are gonners. The black ones on the bumper are fine. Are these easy to find? Loren??
Can you spot which connectors are shot from the photos on this thread?
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=1090.msg5989#msg5989 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=1090.msg5989#msg5989)
That might help us give you some advice. Some of these connectors are relatively common and can be found at better brick and mortar auto parts stores.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. The 1964 Buicks didn't come with a coolant recovery tank. Do you want to add one?
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The black plastic bottles are correct for a 64....
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I cant toss anything either. I probably have some of these plugs as take offs, but since Loren sent me a link for a ten pack, I figured get 'em while you still can. These are in black BTW. That white stuff fell apart like bad teeth. My washer bottle remnants are white. Maybe an assembly plant thing? Bill
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Dear Brian, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
The black plastic bottles are correct for a 64....
My washer bottle remnants are white. Maybe an assembly plant thing? Bill
Another explanation is that the bottle that came with the car failed and was replaced by a 1965 bottle.
I ended up buying the white tank but really didn't care for the way it looked in the engine bay:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-windshield-washer-tank/i-3S4PNss/0/a02c6663/X2/Attempt%20to%20fix%20washer%20tank-X2.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-windshield-washer-tank/i-3S4PNss/A)
These white tanks will yellow with age and I thought that would really detract from Biquette's engine bay. So I just painted it with engine bay paint. However, since I was doing that I masked off an area so that I could check the level of the fluid:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-windshield-washer-tank/i-GJgFm49/0/042752b3/XL/Windshield%20washer%20tank%20%28flash%29-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-windshield-washer-tank/i-GJgFm49/A)
So that's another possibility that might look cleaner.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/d/des-plaines-1964-buick-wagon/6873321462.html
Does this resemble your dash board Edouard? Some peculiar differences between this and mine. Im after the radiator!! Bill
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WHAT??? No washer juice bottle???
I like the masked off reading strip. I am undecided about mine. I have an extra 1970-72 style square tank fender mounted bracket I might use with a square white tank. Whatcha think about the ad above? Ive contacted the guy by email and may call tomorrow with questions. Actually not too shabby on the $$$ for what it is. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick longroof fans,
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/d/des-plaines-1964-buick-wagon/6873321462.html
Does this resemble your dash board Edouard?
Well, it is a survivor, but it hasn't been particularly well loved. It is amazing that Biquette was daily-driver until around 2005 and yet her dash was mostly intact. This is how it look now with the addition of the tach:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Dashboard-before-and-after/i-nH2swKL/0/48ae3677/XL/IMG_3209-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Dashboard-before-and-after/i-nH2swKL/A)
Better still, now that the rear end has been settled - even the speedometer now reads correctly!
Some peculiar differences between this and mine.
Indeed! I wonder how he managed to get the 1965 power steer pump to line up correctly with the 455. :icon_scratch:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Very nice. I'm a big fan of the green.
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Im still amazed at the difference in the STEEL part of the dash where your AC vent lays. Both of ours' were originally non AC cars right? Well maybe not THAT different. That yellow wagons' switches threw me off. The power steering a definite deal too as I just went through the same thing. Ultimately, I installed a later model 455 PS pump, brackets and pulleys. Looks like the pulley is flipped over and maybe an extension mandrel on the shaft??? Bill
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Bill, in that last pic, they simply put the pulley on the PS pump backwards!
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Yeah, I got that , however, the PS pump on the later jobs is run around the lower CRANK pulley as a driver, and will rub on the water pump housing. This one appears to use the WP pulley to drive it which means a bunch of other alignment issues on the pump and alternator. Nothing insurmountable, just more reverse engineering. Bill
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Dear Bill, Brian, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Im still amazed at the difference in the STEEL part of the dash where your AC vent lays. Both of ours' were originally non AC cars right?
Yes, my wagon came without air conditioning. Modifying the dash for the vents was quite a struggle. However, I was able to get another panel for the center vents so I didn't have to work on the actual article. Cutting the holes for the outer vents was rather involved. Rather than clutter up your thread too much, I wrote it up on the Biquette thread. Here's the link:
http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2610.msg32189.html#msg32189 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2610.msg32189.html#msg32189)
That yellow wagons' switches threw me off.
I was interested in how this fellow did the knobs. I'll need to add some accessories for towing like a brake controller. I'll need to come up with some sort of auxillary panel that still looks correct for a 1965 Buick A-Body. I'll probably do something like using the same OEM knobs to avoid looking out of place.
Thanks for sharing your restoration adventure!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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No sweat pal... Upgrading to some '65 stuff tomorrow. Gotta pull the core support and drill out the spot welds on the 64 and then replace it with the cross flow 65. LOTS more room to play with. Also the OEM white plastic washer bottle. Not the cap and the part number. The front is shattered from UV or ozone... yer choice.
Gotta go cut veggies for our chicken Caesar salad for dinner tonite! Yumm... Bill
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For your new lower rad support.....
Those insulators are for the thin tanks. Instead of the metal/rubber bracket, Buick just used rubber ones in the indicated location.
There are avail from CARS. Steele also has them but they cost more (but check shipping cost). They're pricey at $36.25 a pair. You can likely make something similar, it's just a 'L' shaped strip that fit's into the l_____l shape of the lower support.
http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=9587 (http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=9587)
Radiator...
I used a Griffin 1-26242-X. But in/out are on different sides than needed for your 455.
The companion with correct in/out for a 455 is the 1-25242-X. $177
They have another model with thicker core at extra cost.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/griffin-thermal-products/product-line/griffin-universal-fit-radiators/inlet-location/upper-driver-side?N=4294494446%2B4294949206%2B4294924102%2B400030%2B632733%2B4294949204&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending (https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/griffin-thermal-products/product-line/griffin-universal-fit-radiators/inlet-location/upper-driver-side?N=4294494446%2B4294949206%2B4294924102%2B400030%2B632733%2B4294949204&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending)
Note the overall dimensions of 27.5" x 19" x 3" thick.
I bought mine about 10 years ago and it's held up well. However there have been some posts on the net since then saying Griffin quality has suffered.
I suggest you do some research on warranty and return policies on the Griffin and other manufacturers. Both Jegs and Summit carry other brands in the same overall size. It's a common size as it fits the early GM A-body. Also fits mid 70's Ford intermediates and Fox body Mustangs.
Try your Buddy at Champion. Maybe you can get one to test fit and offer a better warranty.
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Here's the Griffin in my red 66. Also note the 7 blade (non thermo clutch) fan. The combo works well for me even in 95 degree weather, without fan shroud.
Your in/outs will be different, but note the tank/core junction isn't in the perfect location for the rad cover plate on one side, but perfect for the other side.
The cover plate you got is for a thinner tank. The GS version has a longer indent for the insulator (same $36 insulators as the bottom support). You can likely use your top plate or mod it to better fit the rad of your choice. I've noted the difference in the 3rd pic.
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I was feeling HOT under the collar, so since I couldnt handle the heat I had to get outa the kitchen...I guess sometimes I don't have the capacity of rational thinking outside the ice box. Being a German and a Virgo almost makes me a perfect storm... Not a Trifecta, but at least a Daily Double! I always try to thank people for any kind of input, and if I get off track and miss one or two, my sincerest apologies! Ive gotten way more input from 65GS.com than the place across the hall for sure. If you ever meander over there, youll notice that I usually preface a post with a pic of Mr. Natural (my ex moniker) trying to garner at least a response to a lengthy post with lotsa pics, usually resulting in nothing from the bleacher patrons, even in regards to my sick (sic) train of thought. Hmmm. Fork me... Im almost done over there. Exspurts and wholey men abound with little more than criticism. Hey, I am my own worst judge; I dont need help in that department LOL...
So as of today we are actually getting somewhere. After a casual Sunday start at 0900hrs, within an hour or so, I had the OEM core support out, and spot welds cut out and replaced with the new 1965 crossflow support. Another hour and it was in. The dang Virgo came into play however, since I was trying to re-capture the essence of the job, I took a hundred measurements and averaged the "placement" within a "mean" 1/16".
When I pulled the CS this morning I was extremely lackadaisical about the method and left the fenders and inners "hanging" from the firewall. The CS went back in loosely, then started tightening the 28 bolts gradually, testing the doors as I progressed and BAMM! Everything was perfect. Period.
Walt, I need to thank you about the concise reply with pics of your install. Some of your mounting issues are exactly what is/was concerning me. Then the size issue, which is where Mike (TM) comes in. We chatted about the same issues almost a month ago while I was still measuring air. Now wit the mount(s) back where they truly belong, we can get down to some true engineering and not guess work.
As things stand right now, the gross allotment of cooling space is established, and presented itself as thus: Absolute maximum allowable width is 27 inches, the height max. is 18-1/2 and almost <4" on the thickness. The 4 rubber pad points are able to be repositioned according to the fit on the new cooler. Aluminum although very strong, can work harden and become brittle in a jiffy. Not to even mention a rub. I am trying to replicate a factory install. Now I am dealing with a German, Virgo, trained mechanical engineer. Can it get any better?
I guess the size boils down to 26 X 19 X 4". I am gonna call my Champion dealer pal tomorrow and try to order a unit. He was really involved with the Jefferson swap meet that got slushed out Saturday. Gotta let him recharge his batteries too... Bill
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Bill,
This is the radiator I used.
Direct replacement for the '65 GS and allowed the shroud to fit correctly.
I was able to set it in the lower support, without the support brackets (could not find them), but I used about 1 inch thick "comfort mat" cut into strips wide enough to lay in the bottom, and another strip on top of the radiator, so it is isolated and the top plate applies a little compression to the rubber.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mohawk-Home-Utility-Bay-Black-Rectangular-Door-Mat-Common-3-ft-x-3-ft-Actual-36-in-x-36-in/1000265883 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mohawk-Home-Utility-Bay-Black-Rectangular-Door-Mat-Common-3-ft-x-3-ft-Actual-36-in-x-36-in/1000265883)
I bought the mat to lay in the bottom of the HVAC closet floor since I have all hardwood floors to help absorb the sound. And had to cut it to fit, so I had leftovers and used them to make the support cushions.
Hope that helps. :)
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There seems to be a difference in this site as to those who work on cars and those who bought cars....lol. I like using ?whatever? works on certain jobs. I like the Lowe?s material....sorta reminds me of the hot water blanket I used for floor insulation instead of buying the other stuff that looked exactly the same for triple the dough. That car is moving along rather fast,keep up the good work. This is the only car site that I am on anymore. It is American made cars that are well preserved by people who have an appreciation for what they/we are.
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Cut the nubs off and weather strip glue them to the bottom of the radiator. You just need 2 at the bottom as normal.
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Dear Bill, Michael, Dan, Brian, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Glad to see the radiator caper is finally working out! :hello2:
I like using ?whatever? works on certain jobs.
. . . .
You are so right!
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif). . . . I dunno' Brian. Buying parts from Jurassic Classic !?!?!??
https://jcaparts.com/ (https://jcaparts.com/)
I certainly agree that mid-60s Buicks are endangered but I didn't think they went all the way back to over 145 million years ago! . . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Seriously, I never heard of this company until now. Thanks for the pointer Brian! :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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What? You never heard of the fearsome Torquesaurus Gus? :whip2:
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WOW! I was beginning to feel like the red headed step child, and now an outpouring of support! BAMM! The other place across the hall seems to be stuck between 2nd and 3rd gear. A ripe opportunity to throw a rod! I have met some really good guys over there, but almost anyone that contributes to my thred(s) provides more criticism than help. The biggest offender(s) over there have ALL the answers yet can only copy and paste results. Ill admit to C&Ping myself when the situation warrants it as a link. Sometimes I dont feel like typing 12 pages of droll with two fingers. I still dont use the opposed thumbs for typing (!). I learned to type on an IBM Selectric; the one with the ball(s) for different fonts. Even had a modular ribbon cassette with a red and black siamesed ribbon. The "offenders" over there probably get a weekly manicure to go with the spotless white shirts. Hell, I only dress in grunge. Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
I must admit I like the rubber mat thing from Lowes. A bit pricey at 35.00 but I did look at the other stuff on that link. Theres a 2x3 foot job for 11.00 and i can always use some extras. I worked in a coal fired power plant for 30 years and really miss hacking up a chunk of old conveyor belting from the scrap pile. That stuff would be a little to hard on the delicacies of an aluminum radiator anyway. Some one else mentioned using a piece of used serpentine belt, but thats not enough. The Lowes deal looks like a happy medium. Pretty high tech in appearance too.
After work today, I sat and pondered the cooling job. I agree 100% that a simple pad on the lower mount and the upper too will be fine. The bottom is now plenty wide but the top is lacking a bit on the one side as per Walts pics. Thats where I was considering sectioning the top plate to make it wider. Id rather support the weight on the tanks 100% rather than the core, even tho that is on the top.
I spoke with my Champion Rad. guy today and he's gonna price this unit out for me in a 3 row unit. He concurred with me that I really dont need to go with 4 for the extra $$$. This will fit the width and the height, and even the thickness. He seemed to think about 160-170.00
https://www.championradiators.com/3-row-Buick-Skylark-radiator-20-1967-1969 (https://www.championradiators.com/3-row-Buick-Skylark-radiator-20-1967-1969)
Theres that C&P thing again LOL. After playing with this stuff for almost 55 years, I felt a bit overwhelmed without having a tangible part in my hand. A tape measure is only as good as the person reading it, and the chinaman can not read a tape measure.
I tried to post the instructions mid parse, but the big dummy cant figger that out. Read it below. I did using Wun Fun Tungs' suction thang and got the brakes 90% bled. The hose AND wrench wont fit the bleeder nipple, so I used the bench bleeder tapered nipples into the bleeder which helped. Pat showed up to stomp on the pedal a few times and its now 100% BAMM! It took about 1/3 quart to fill and flush the entire new system until clean fluid came out.
Spent some time on electrical plugs on the front light harness. Got my turn signal plugs from ebay *(Thanks loren for the link), and they look good. I pulled every pin out of every plug and wired brushed them all with a SS toothbrush. S-O-P. They look like new, with a film of dielectric grease on each. I am almost ready to mount the grill and headlight buckets, but want to get the cooler in place first, just in case of any trimming on the mounts.
Bored yet? NEVER... Pulled the back window trim off to address the leaking rear window. Not news to me, but there is some rot under the trim. Cut all the previous attempts at caulking out down to clean steel. Im not gonna pull the glass for this rodeo; maybe when the patina gets removed next year. The leaks also exacerbated the rusty trunk floor. That'll be a fun project for me. I hope the gas tank is intact. Its bone dry right now. Well maybe a gallon in there. I blew the line back with air and heard a slight gurgle.
I want to thank everyone again for the input! Keep the dialogue rolling. Post pics of your projects. I enjoy offering advice where I can too. I was a breech delivery with a 3/4" combination wrench sideways in my hand. Mom said it was "painful"... Have a great day. Pics after dinner. Bill
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Another issue thats come up but is no biggy is what to do about an aircleaner? As it sits, the 455 with an Edelhooser on a 1" spacer for a Q-jet manifold, the air horn is just about even with the fenders. Id prefer a quadrajet 800 but this was a freebie. I doubt a stocker would fit either. Whatchyou guys say? I have no compunctions about cutting a hole in the hood with a cowl induction type hood scoop ( I hate that term!) but after all, form follows function. I kinda like the Olds jetstar filters, but height is still an issue. Bill
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You might be able to just use a 14? setup with a drop base. I had one on one of my cars, maybe it is still out in the parts pile.
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I think a drop base with a skinny element is gonna be the most cost effective route to go. Its a close call! Bill
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Well... Got the new water cooler ordered today. The cost for Adam is 215.00, so thats getting drop shipped to here with no shipping or sales tax added. Best deal I can get!
Took the rear window trim off yesterday to address some corner leaks. I knew there was some cancer there, as the trunk floor is a gonner. Some one in the past had attempted more than once to fix the leaks. There was the OEM butyl sealant, then black RTV and some white stuff that was crumbling and looked terrible. Spent two hours picking and cutting all that out. Ill pull the window next year for the paint job. She's staying in 1964 patina till then. Better than 1/2 the trim clips were gone as well.
Mind you, this is only a cursory repair, so its ok for now. Got it shiny clean, brushed some zinc primer in the slot, mixed some fiberglass, and sanded that "ok" then 2 spray coats of rustoleo Navy Blue. Actually the color aint bad. Tomorrow Ill polish the trim on the wheel, and re-seal with polyurethane BLACK. Then its off to the boat for a while to get her ready for a Saturday launch.... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers with limited head clearance,
I think a drop base with a skinny element is gonna be the most cost effective route to go. Its a close call! Bill
Biquette continues to suffer from that problem. I have a 1" drop base and a 2-1/2" filter element instead of the normal 3". I can give you a vehicle listing for the 14" by 2-1/2" filter elements I found. I've never heard of any filter elements shorter than 2-1/2" - is there such a thing? :icon_scratch:
Biquette has a problem because she is using a FAST Sportsman EFI setup (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2719.msg17500.html#msg17500). It is about 1" taller than a standard carburetor. You might have less trouble with your scheme.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The only OEM unit Ive seen thats close to <2" is off a 1969 dodge w/383. This guy inherited all his F-I-L 's junk and was selling it. A rusty POS, dirty, and laying on a pile of other dodge junk for 120.00++ ???? No way. Id pull out the gas-ax for the hood before that!
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com railfans,
Okay, a bit off topic but to revisit a discussion earlier this year:
Union Pacific Big Boy #4014 is currently undergoing restoration with the hope of having it running for the 150 anniversary of the golden spike ceremony which connected the transcontinental railroads. The anniversary is coming up this May 10th! We'll see if the restoration shops can pull it off.
Today there was a YouTube video showing Union Pacific Big Boy #4014 running some trials under its own steam power:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjoMBKWW0ag (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjoMBKWW0ag)
They'd better get a move on. The anniversary is only 7 days away and the locomotive is still in Cheyenne, Wyoming. I hope they work out whatever kinks remain so that the locomotive can make it Utah for the anniversary of the completion of the transcontinental railroad. Lots of people are expecting it to make a show!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Check out the consist; the 4014, tender (NOW OIL FIRED) with 2 DYNO cars for aux braking, and a SD switcher for aid to power the dyno car(s) and for air. Check the vids from the old days when fired on COAL. YIKES! ws
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akvLweWOd0g (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akvLweWOd0g)
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AND THE CROWD ROARED !!! Bill Meanwhile back to the boat for a 1200hrs launch!
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com faithful,
Thanks for the link to a Big Boy "back in da' day." . . .
AND THE CROWD ROARED !!!
Congratulations! :thumbsup: It was quite a struggle, but it looks like this problem is behind you!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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"Fits like a Trojan (ah, er, Champion) should!"... Its at rest for now and about a 99% fit on the mounts etc. Actually its in front of me now LOL!
But wait, thats not all! Got the boat launched, secured, potable water purged, plugged in and making ice as we speak! Notice no leaves on the trees yet? This is an early start this year! Tomorrow is a haircut and a shave. I always grow the winter coat when the boat comes outa the water and then clean up my act to play the quintessential yachtsman.
A few bugs to work out then its back to Bertha. I need to hear that girl scream. Hopefully no runs, no leaks, no errors >>>>>>>>Outa the park!
As Willy admires the new cooler, Pat looks on... Bill
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Anyone have a "reasonable" source for the engine hood side rubber bumpers? OPGI are like 7.00 each! Thats kinda rich by my standards! Bill
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/S240895/ (https://www.opgi.com/skylark/S240895/)
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For specific items such as this, it's often best to check CARS first. They're more likely to have the correct part as they are often the ones who initiate the reproduction, and other companies are just resellers of their product. You can check a rubber products manufacturer such as Steele.
Anyway, CARS has them for $3 each (fits 61-75), and Summit Racing also has some for $3 but list them for '67-up?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1975-Buick-Hood-to-Fender-Bumper-Narrow-HFB610-/182153008715?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1975-Buick-Hood-to-Fender-Bumper-Narrow-HFB610-/182153008715?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0)
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Thanks Walt! Do you recall if I need 4 of them? Picked up my rubber door mat from Lowes today so I can start the cooler install tomorrow. Maybe toss some fire in the holes later this week! Bill
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Dear Bill, Walt, and mid-60s Buick caregivers who sometimes have a bit of trouble with "numbers," . . . . :laughing7:
Thanks Walt! Do you recall if I need 4 of them? . . .
Oh that's easy, I'll go downstairs and check how many Biquette has. . . . . Let's see . . . There is one at the front corner of the driver's side - check!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-4VRqHtp/0/6b9e3c9b/XL/Front%20driver%27s%20side%20bumper-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-4VRqHtp/A)
There is one next to the hinge on the driver's side - check!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-BqBHStP/0/f4695000/XL/Rear%20driver%27s%20side%20bumper-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-BqBHStP/A)
Okay, let's check the passenger side. First the front:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-qwrgBsj/0/c4cc68cf/XL/Front%20passenger%20side%20hole%20for%20bumper-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-qwrgBsj/A)
Nope, no bumper there. Okay let's check next to the hinge:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-xFqgKgX/0/be446b36/XL/Rear%20passenger%20side%20hole%20for%20bumper-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Replacing-Biquettes-hood-side-bumpers/i-xFqgKgX/A)
Hmm, I don't see one there either . . . . . So I guess that's the answer: 2 . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
CARS claimed they had more than 10 of these bumpers. I do hope they are correct. I just bought 4 of them! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I'm about to buy a set of these from Fusick, which I believe will be correct for the 65 and probably 64 also:
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HB652B (https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HB652B)
All the others I've researched seem to be incorrect from original. I can't speak to function, many might work fine.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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My 66's need 4 per car, 2 at front, 2 at rear. They're 5/8" wide and split in the middle like the CARS versions, not solid like the Fusicks. I don't know if 64 and 65 use the same parts as 66. Someone could look it up in the online parts catalog here on the site for a definite answer.
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I would go with the Fusick ones they are very close and correct for the 64-65 ! Now if could just find the nos ones I have for comparison! Most others are to thick and to tall!
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The 65s are one piece, about 3/4" wide and I believe the same as the originals that Edouard posted on Biquette. Also 4 per car, two front, two back. They look the same as the originals on the Steve Shuman car.
Check this out also... http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2014.msg11638.html#msg11638 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php/topic,2014.msg11638.html#msg11638)
Chuck
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They definitely take two per fender on 65,but be prepared to sound like a real sailor when you try to install the rear ones with hood on or off. It is no fun and would be a lot easier to do before bolting on fender.
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Dear Chuck, Walt, gssizzler, Dan, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I would go with the Fusick ones they are very close and correct for the 64-65 ! Now if could just find the nos ones I have for comparison! Most others are to thick and to tall!
Grumble, grumble, grumble, . . . . . Where were you guys yesterday!?
If the CARS pieces don't fit, at least I'll have decent pictures of them before I send them back!
They definitely take two per fender on 65,but be prepared to sound like a real sailor when you try to install the rear ones with hood on or off. It is no fun and would be a lot easier to do before bolting on fender.
Bummer dude! :BangHead: If Bill wasn't so far away, I'd ask him to install them for me. After all, he clearly is a sailor!! :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Some of you guys are just not right.....lol. I was thinking if you stand on your head and use a decent pair of pliers the front ones can be pulled through with wd-40. I remember scaring the dog right out of the garage trying to do the rears without scratching the paint.
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Thanks for the heads-up Dan. I'll be sure to install those at the same time the ventiports go in!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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No problem Chuck,and DO NOT over tighten the ventiports....I think that was one of my worse mistakes on the front end. It ended up being another re-do.
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OK... So I looked at Steele products and couldnt find a hood bumper; only for the doors. Any more info??
https://www.steelerubber.com/ (https://www.steelerubber.com/)
As I see it, WWTFD?? (what would the factory do?). I'm pretty sure with a million cars coming down the line, they didnt struggle with every rubber part that needed installing. My guess would be a blunt flat blade of some type and a dab of spit on each one and get pushed into place. Bill
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The ones that CARS have listed are what I used
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1975-Buick-Hood-to-Fender-Bumper-Narrow-HFB610/182153008715?fits=Year%3A1965%7CModel%3ASkylark&epid=665964342&hash=item2a692a564b:g:8FEAAOSw7FRWZc-f:sc:USPSFirstClass (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1975-Buick-Hood-to-Fender-Bumper-Narrow-HFB610/182153008715?fits=Year%3A1965%7CModel%3ASkylark&epid=665964342&hash=item2a692a564b:g:8FEAAOSw7FRWZc-f:sc:USPSFirstClass)!48658!US!-1
I would bet they were on the fenders before they were bolted on the car,but they can be manipulated into the grooves afterward with some aggravation.
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My bumpers from Fusick will arrive on Thursday. I'll post a comparison with the originals.
Chuck
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Thanks guys! Thats gonna be the other big order this week LOL! ACHT ZO! The other biggy is the dang radiator hoses. I can make a top one "fit" but it should have a support hook to gain some fan clearance, but the lower is a PITA. It comes off the water pump and has to clear the oil filter/oil pump, then make a turn into the lower radiator outlet which seems to be mounted like 1" too low. It seems as tho the rad nipple needs a 45* elbow on it to start the hose pointing up. Otherwise the hose gets a kink right there. Probably takes a preformed (or is that deformed!) hose. I have 2 OEM lowers that Ive trimmed to no avail. The OEMs are a 1972 455 GS and the OEM 1964 V6 which were identical down to the stenciled numbers. Any ideas? Just another hurdle in the 100 yard dash.
The other is a pump to carb fuel line. This guy has an Edelhoser 800 with a free standing filter. Ive tried to duplicate the OEM line, but have clearance issues with the HEI. Im thinking about a hose run from a 10" long steel pipe off the pump to the inline filter between the T Stat and carb. Its only gotta last one year. The custom hot rod stuff can go on next year. 2019 is the proving mock up model year LOL... Bill
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Dear Dan, Chuck, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
The ones that CARS have listed are what I used
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1975-Buick-Hood-to-Fender-Bumper-Narrow-HFB610/182153008715?fits=Year%3A1965%7CModel%3ASkylark&epid=665964342&hash=item2a692a564b:g:8FEAAOSw7FRWZc-f:sc:USPSFirstClass (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1975-Buick-Hood-to-Fender-Bumper-Narrow-HFB610/182153008715?fits=Year%3A1965%7CModel%3ASkylark&epid=665964342&hash=item2a692a564b:g:8FEAAOSw7FRWZc-f:sc:USPSFirstClass)!48658!US!-1
My bumpers from Fusick will arrive on Thursday. I'll post a comparison with the originals.
I have these CARS bumpers coming my way as we speak. I'll be interested to see if they are close enough to be usable or not. Perhaps the Fusick bumpers won't be as much of a pain to install.
. . . . The other biggy is the dang radiator hoses. . . .
Sorry Bill, your setup is so unique I think you'll have to go through some trial end error. Perhaps Michael can give you some advice once more?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Got the hose thing figgered out... I got a universal (ribbed) lower that barely touches the oil filter, and sectioned (removed) a 2" chunk outa the upper and placed a PVC hose coupling in place with 2 clamps. It'll suffice for this year, and then I have a model to go by. Theres even an "arch" in it to clear the fan by about 3-4". Ran the wiring harness across the core support and found out I have all 4 headlamps working. Have to wiggle some plugs; just fine tuning. No front signals yet, the bumper isnt on, however the taillights work, signals and brake lights too. The BL's only work with the key on... a true FM. Even the license plate light works!
Ran another fuel line to the edelhoser. I wasn't happy with the steel one rubbing on the HEI, so I trimmed a 6" nipple in steel off the pump and went hose from there. Also pulled the HEI out and ruff timed the motor. Its either good or 180 off. Pats gonna bump the starter for me tomorrow while I have my finger in the hole. YIKES! Also installed the driver quality front spears on the fenders. Gonna get some chinaman ventiports and stick them on. Filled the power steering pump with juice. Need to top it off after a run.
Think Im gonna bypass the heater core for now. Budget is depleted ;-(( . Gonna try and put a few gallons of gas in the tank tomorrow to look for leaks. I have all 12 fingers crossed!! The book sez the cooling system capacity is 19-1/2 quarts. Seems like a lot.
Now for the nagging question; should the first ride include a smokey burnout the length of my new concrete driveway??? NOT! Bill
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Busy, busy, busy... Doctors stuff this week for both of us, and tonight and sat. and Sun. Pats going to a 20 hour motorcycle safety class to get her license. Up here you need a drivers license for up to a 100cc scooter, and she has a 150, so thats an MC endorsement. Im good with that, since Ive had mine for 45 years.
Got the hoses figured out. Theres good fan clearance, and minimal strain. Tomorrow MAY be the day. Ill share a MPG if it happens!
Today we got the BAD LAD outa storage. Five seconds of cranking without setting the choke, and a few pumps, we were off to the races. The chopper was on the charger while we ran the '72 home. Got back in a half hour and the basturd wouldnt start. Dummy me, I left the key on while we were gone from the previous start attempt, and fried the points. Im guessing, but they were pretty corroded from sitting all winter with the battery in it. I had the key "ON" and moved the points with a screw driver and got a flash outa the #1 pipe. AH HA! Fire. Just like "Flight of the Phoenix".
With no fingernail file handy, I scrounged through the back of my truck and found a well used piece of 320 sandpaper. A quick rub down in situ and she lit right off. Pat couldnt believe it. I always kid her that I am a pretty competent mechanic. She was ready to go home and get the trailer. Curses! Foiled again!!
Both toys are home in shop "A" while our newer vehicles sleep under the stars for the summer.
Both Barbies needed to wipe the sleep from their eyes and waved to the on-lookers that gave me thumbs up on the way home.
Tomorrow is gas tank testing, anti-freeze holding, and a few electrical connectors, and then, maybe a test fire at Los Alamos. Had Pat bump the starter for #1 compression, which proved accurate timing mark at TDC. I guess I got lucky the other day; odds were 2 to 1 LOL. Sweet dreams kiddies. Oh, BTW, the 72's hood bumpers are WAY wider than the Gen I parts. Bill
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Making very good progress on the gx 455!
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Today may just be the day... If the gas tank isnt holed! Bill
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I was "About to embark on a great crusade" this morning... sure turned into that! Put 7 gallons of fresh booze free premium in the tank, no leaks (!), and the smell of the old stuff was horrendous! A few squirts with the turkey baster down the carb and she fired, but the pump would not move fuel. The worst thoughts came to mind like dropping the tank, new line to the rear or a new fuel pump. Hmmm. I strung up the old Model T test tank on a wire with a hose to the carb. I also put a gage on the pump discharge line. VOILA!
The pressure held steady at 3 lbs. for a few minutes. Then all of a sudden it was at 6 lbs. I took the gage off and the hose was wet. I reconnected it to the filter and we were off to the races. Oil held steeady at about 60 ish and temp was around 180, and a tad low on antifreeze. Fine tuning again.
Barbequed some chicken thighs on the Weber Grill with some peas and wine. Yumm. "Twas a good day. Just a few minor leaks to address. Bill
https://youtu.be/NqWvVroXJm4
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Great progress Bill. Off to the races next weekend??
:cheers2:
Chuck
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This is from the other day... WhataBuickweek!!! Bill
https://youtu.be/Oswjvmf17Rw (https://youtu.be/Oswjvmf17Rw)
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Sounds like she's a keeper....both of them!! :thumbsup:
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All THREE! Especially Pat!! The new single wire chinalternator was putting out 14.6 volts too! Cleaning shop tomorrow...
On the hood bumpers; for the record, these are the 1972 style. Probably OEM... Bill
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Congratulations Bill!! :hello2:
You've had a great weekend! :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Ed! Im still finishing the pro-logue to Mein Kampf II. I did get the tags transferred for a measly 5.00 today. THAT in itself was a shocker!
So now I am cleaning up the front bumper before installing it, and of course I need to pull the signals apart and clean them etc. I find one has a broken 1157 clear bulb and the base stuck in the plug. Hmm. Someone has been here before me! The two spring loaded contacts on the wires that secure the bulb are stuck in the down (compressed) position. I managed to twist the fitted rubber boot off the back of the housing. The housing is the ground BTW. The little black part that secures the contacts' indexing is busted. Its all apart now, but some one here had a repair method to use a new socket and replace the small indexing disc ( 3/4" diameter with two 1/8" holes for indexing). Theres also a part that extends through the housing to keep all the stuff timed correctly.
Who or what was the fix on this? I hate to take a hole saw and cut a new hole for a grounded socket. Please send the cavalry! Bill
And heres the link...
http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=1090.msg5989#msg5989 (http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=1090.msg5989#msg5989)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick electricians,
So now I am cleaning up the front bumper before installing it, and of course I need to pull the signals apart and clean them etc. I find one has a broken 1157 clear bulb and the base stuck in the plug. Hmm. Someone has been here before me! The two spring loaded contacts on the wires that secure the bulb are stuck in the down (compressed) position. I managed to twist the fitted rubber boot off the back of the housing. The housing is the ground BTW. The little black part that secures the contacts' indexing is busted. Its all apart now, but some one here had a repair method to use a new socket and replace the small indexing disc ( 3/4" diameter with two 1/8" holes for indexing). Theres also a part that extends through the housing to keep all the stuff timed correctly.
Who or what was the fix on this? I hate to take a hole saw and cut a new hole for a grounded socket. Please send the cavalry!
I'm guessing you need to replace the contacts part? Here is a picture of the old and "new" and I repaired Biquette's:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Repairing-parking-light-housings/i-7Fm8hG8/0/8df2d27e/XL/Comparison%20of%20Buick%20OEM%20contacts%20with%20NAPA%20787109-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Repairing-parking-light-housings/i-7Fm8hG8/A)
The replacement sockets I found were at NAPA auto parts (and probably most others.) Here is the link to the NAPA website:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_787117 (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_787117)
The NAPA part comes in a metal housing that I discarded and only kept the part I needed.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Repairing-parking-light-housings/i-9NFqTTm/0/1fb130de/XL/NAPA%20replacement%201157%20bulb%20socket%20connector%20-%20side-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Repairing-parking-light-housings/i-9NFqTTm/A)
I reconditioned the boots as best I could because they allow the wires to slide more easily when replacing a bulb. I replaced the old contact with the new and soldered that to the original wiring. I then carefully protected everything with heat shrink tubing. This is what I ended up with before installation:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Repairing-parking-light-housings/i-Hz8jFvx/0/4b755497/XL/Overall%20view-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Repairing-parking-light-housings/i-Hz8jFvx/A)
Is that enough to get you unstuck? I have still more pictures if need be!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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RIGHTO! I used the #'s from the link above from an earlier post. These were 3.29 each and just a little different but the guts were identical. The dang 1157 bulbs were over 6.00 for a pair! I dont know how in the world the chinaman got 5/16 X 1/2" translated into 7.87345645474030mm X 15.937635345324mm and made a perfect fit.
Even the contact position is correct. The lenses have been scrubbed with some hot water and Dawn soap and are hung by the fireplace with care, in hopes that the Buick saint soon will be there. The amber inserts look like BRAND NEW. I almost felt like tossing the amber inserts and using an amber bulb a la 1970-72 GS stuff. The skylarks used an amber lense and the GS was clear. 442's and SS chevelles did the same trick. Just a touch-o-trivia.
Thanks for getting back so quick on this Ed! I knew I read the post regarding this some time back and was again, in panic mode, then found the thred. Thanks to all the Buick people here its a breeze!
So the bumper was cleaned, primed and painted aluminum on the INSIDE to camouflage the poor condition from Wisconsin salt. The outside looks "pretty fair". Tomorrow is an SOS pad with new lights and bolted on. Maybe a first ride after lunch. Thanks again! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick "luminaries" . . . . .
RIGHTO! I used the #'s from the link above from an earlier post. These were 3.29 each and just a little different but the guts were identical.
I'm glad you got that sorted out! Once you know where to get the replacement part it is a straightforward repair.
The dang 1157 bulbs were over 6.00 for a pair!
When you get ambitious for some detail oriented stuff, supposedly you can find LED replacements that are actually generating the same beam. It is on my do-to list. LEDs will be gentler on your parking light lenses.
So the bumper was cleaned, primed and painted aluminum on the INSIDE to camouflage the poor condition from Wisconsin salt. The outside looks "pretty fair". Tomorrow is an SOS pad with new lights and bolted on. Maybe a first ride after lunch. Thanks again! Bill
You are most welcome! :thumbsup: Glad you are getting close to growling da' pavement! Do let us know and by all means post pictures!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Lights turned out well. Everything works as it should. Couldnt get the emergency flashers to go tho... LOL. Had to do a little magic on the chrome with an SOS pad and a MOLOTOW chrome paint pen. Looks acceptable. Hung the pre assembled front bumper on and snugged it into position along with the radiator X braces and remedied a few ol leaks. Hung the tags on it and called the insurance agent for liability and TOWING... no comprehensive yet haha.
Promised Pat a test ride around the block which will happen Thursday probably.
Should the chrome covers stay or go? Like to get some OEM cork gaskets. The black rubber jobs dont seal too well. Bill
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Test drive Thursday, that?s good!
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WOW ! Bill, you are making great headway. Hope the scheduled test drive goes well.
Loren
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Stay.
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STAY??? Heck, Ive found a new home here! Ive all but quit V8 due to lack of participation. Every few days Ill ad a post over there, but theres literally no participation over there. This place is a little more personal, and Ive gotten some much needed help from yooz guys!
The test run will be several trips around the block here. Confidence is "high", but she still needs to prove herself. A block away and I can walk home and get the truck for a "nudge" back to the shop. I called the insurance guy yesterday and made sure the policy includes towing LOL. Ya never know!
Meanwhile, anyone have a decent prospect for cast aluminum valve covers? I see small block Buick covers for 50.00 but the BBB stuff? Starts out at 150.00 and up. Thats LUNACY! Bill
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Dear Bill, Jim, Loren,
Lights turned out well. Everything works as it should.
Great to hear! :hello2:
Couldnt get the emergency flashers to go tho... LOL.
That's a memory! My Dad was worried enough to not have emergency flashers that he bought an aftermarket kit to install them. It went on around 1970 and was still working in 2013 when Biquette got her steering column replaced. Not bad for an aftermarket kit!
Had to do a little magic on the chrome with an SOS pad and a MOLOTOW chrome paint pen. Looks acceptable.
If you want a bit more "bling," You might try a metal polish like Flitz (https://www.flitz.com/). I originally bought the stuff to polish the rails of my model railroad, but it is amazing on classic car chrome.
Promised Pat a test ride around the block which will happen Thursday probably.
Sounds great! :hello2: Don't forget your camera!
Should the chrome covers stay or go?
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif). . . . I dunno' . . . . . If the valve covers are the only chrome in the engine bay - they might get lonely. On the other hand, if you added even more "bling" . . . . . . . :sunny: :laughing7:
Meanwhile, anyone have a decent prospect for cast aluminum valve covers? I see small block Buick covers for 50.00 but the BBB stuff? Starts out at 150.00 and up. Thats LUNACY!
Sorry, you might have search far and wide for those. Most are installed on engines, so they are rarely "liberated" to be sold used.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Heres a shout out to Mike (AKA Trunk Monkey)... Got the horns today. Perfect addition to the project! Thanks!! However after bolting them in, no honky. :tongue3: I didnt have a chance to trouble shoot anything, however, the steering wheel was off this winter (rag joint problems) and went back together with no (forseen) problems.
There is the battery power junction block on the inner fender. That supplies the fuse block via 2 ring terminals with an OEM splice with a black wire going to the cab and a green wire ("the wire") going to the horns. Is there a fuse or relay in there, or maybe one on the fuse block? I didnt bench try the horns and I am sure they are fine as per yer video. Any ideas are appreciated. Test drive tomorrow afternoon after I get a Sacroiliac joint injection. More R-A stuff. Gotta keep busy, or the guy upstairs pulls the plug.
The valve cover deal is a UNICORN for sure. T/A covers are on sale from one of the vendors for 139.00 but usually arent drilled for a filler or Vent. I am considering thicker CORK gaskets like the factory used. Comments? Ideas?? Bill
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That junction block includes the horn relay. The green wire goes to the horns. The other wire goes to the firewall connector, and then to the horn button. It looks like if you ground the horn button, it'll trigger the relay and sound the horn. Try grounding that terminal and see if it sounds the horn.
As you're already aware, the junction block supplies power to the fuse block, and basically, to the whole car. It's a good idea to install a fusible link there to prevent a melt down in case something in the system shorts to ground. Buick started using fusible links in 1967. Those didn't have the junction block, but had the connection (and fusible link) at the starter.
You can get a fusible link at NAPA.
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Thats the answer I was looking for Walt, and I thank you! As it stands the only part of a fuse network on the pre 67 models is the headlamp switch, with a bi-metalic strip that overheats "open" in the event of a short (overloading) and opens, albeit momentarily. Its a poor design. I do want to get away from fusible links tho, and have a visual, easy to see, fuse and holder installed. I used several of these on high amp busses on my Hatteras yacht with its' archaic 32 volt DC system. Thats right! Try to buy a 32VDC starter for a 12-71 or even a 10W light bulb. Not even 36 volts, but 32! Thats FOUR, 8 volt batteries is series. Even the batteries are about 200.00 EACH and there's TWO banks of FOUR. WHEW!
Had a bilateral (double) sacroiliac injection today with a 10" long needle piercing the sacral capsule. That was at 0800hrs and I had to sleep that one off after getting home. Its already 10-15% better and I cant wait for tomorrow to check that relay and take Pat for that damn first ride. The suspense is killing me! Bill
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First time in 39 years under her own steam; literally! Made about 12 blocks and the temp gage was getting pretty warm. I think it was a false positive, although pulling back into the drive the cap popped and lost about 2 quarts of juice. It started out almost a gallon low anyway.
My 72 that I took over in 2013 had a T stat that was unknown age. I put a new one in and it buried the needle. Hmmm. Put the old one back in and its still there. Same chinaman parts?? Im gonna pull it out tomorrow and throw some heater hoses on it. The hand dont lie! I have an IR gun and it showed about 220 on the T stat and 280 at the exhaust manifold. I have no idea where the timing is or even whats in the HEI for that matter. Plus an unknown amount of 39 year old gas with 7 new likker free gallons of premium on top.
Barely used edelhoser 800 CFM carb too... lotsa bugs to work out before exhaust pipes next week.
Here it is in Patina... AND YOU GUYS SAW IT FIRST! Bill
https://youtu.be/gpbqEzvYWh4
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Looks and sounds good, thanks for posting!
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Thanks Jim! With only a few minutes to take a spin around the Aberdeen proving Grounds, the "X" job fared pretty well. It steered, it stopped, good clutch and has at least 1-2-3 gears LOL. The 3:23 rear gear proved a perfect match for the T-10/455. A perfect test run? Not by any stretch, but nevertheless pushed me on to a restored coarse. We prefer to call that "Dead Reckoning".
A few hours in the pits tomorrow and we'll take another stab at it! Bill
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Sounds good. Good luck with round #2 tomorrow!
Chuck
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Be careful runnin that old gas. I have seen it varnish and stick to intake valve stems. The valves then seize and bend all the intake pushrods. I highly recommend replacing the gas tank with a fresh one. They are Around $100 at auto city classics in MN.
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I can appreciate that, however I think most of the gas had been syphoned out in the past. Probably around 2 gallons remained with 7 gallons of fresh on top. even after driving the short course today, the exhaust smelled way better than the initial start up. Theres also a substantial in line filter in the system which helps for debris.
A few weeks ago, I used air to blow the feed line clear and could just hear the tank gurgling. I think we dodged the bullet. If it were an intact system with old gas, I'd be a bit more concerned. Old varnished gas really sucks. As time goes on, Im gonna get more fresh gas in there to test for leaks. I hope the old tank is OK. May just find the build sheet in the spaces though... Bill
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Dear Bill, Jim, Chuck, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
First time in 39 years under her own steam; literally! Made about 12 blocks and the temp gage was getting pretty warm.
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Silly boy! That's an internal combustion engine! You've been watching too many Big Boy Loco videos!! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Seriously - congratulations!! :hello2:
. . . . I highly recommend replacing the gas tank with a fresh one. . . . .
I'll second that motion. During Biquette's second downtime for engine repairs, I did the best I could to siphon all the gas out and even so, the EFI fuel pump failed and the gas sending unit is damaged. Replacing the tank will probably save you a bunch of hassles later on.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I cant (read: wont) argue a valid point. Right now its just not in the cards, however, next winter when the trunk floor gets replaced, the tank will too. Just cant do it right now. Id be surprised if this guy gets 500 miles on it this summer. Most of the car driving is for local shows and cruise nights.
I did go junking today and got 4 OEM hood bumpers off a '65 for 2.00 Two broke upon removal but then thats what glue is for; "now". Gotta live for today fellas. Tomorrow may be too late.
So the 65 guy sent me on a 10 mile wild goose chase. If youve never been to a 100 year old junk yard in the Wisconsin bush, yer missing something! Glad it was before the poison ivy sprouts LOL. Gonna go back in the fall when I am a bit more prepared. Just to set the mood, it was 40F and misting. Bill
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And a few for posterity! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . .
So the 65 guy sent me on a 10 mile wild goose chase. If youve never been to a 100 year old junk yard in the Wisconsin bush, yer missing something! Glad it was before the poison ivy sprouts LOL. Gonna go back in the fall when I am a bit more prepared. Just to set the mood, it was 40F and misting.
. . . . .
Thanks for sharing the pictures! We don't have anything like this nearby. Land is just to valuable.
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . But you didn't take two important pictures! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin_triangle.gif)
The first of your second batch of photos there is wagon behind the Roadmaster - which wagon was it?
On the third picture of that same second batch - what's after that RV? Could there be a 1965 24 foot Airstream Tradewind in immaculate condition that could be had for a song? . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Looks like Ill hafta go back and take some more pics! That wagon didnt strike me as being a Buick, but there was sooo much stuff that half of the place I felt like a mountain goat LOL. What RV are you referring to? The Class A motor home, or the FORDSON tractor LOL?
So this long weekend, I had a HS pal come up here to fish, and he stays on the BOATEL.. He loves it!
Waiting for the new gas tank and sender. Gonna run a new 3/8" frame pipe, got a new temp gage installed, glove box is back in, 3rd NEW master cylinder is bled and in... just usual stuff while he brown truck makes its' way north... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . . .
Waiting for the new gas tank and sender. Gonna run a new 3/8" frame pipe, got a new temp gage installed, glove box is back in, 3rd NEW master cylinder is bled and in... just usual stuff while he brown truck makes its' way north...
Thanks for the photo update! What is the donor car for the air cleaner? Assuming of course you know! It looks vaguely familiar.
I suppose the last photo is your restored gas cap. It was in much better shape than it appeared on the earlier picture! That's one more item you can cross off your do-to list!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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That air filter came from my Buick engine farmer guy... most of his engines came out of 1970 & up big cars. Im a bit of a non air filter expert but this one may have been off of a 430; the PCV inlet is just to the back of the horn, pointing towards the front of the DS (port side LOL) valve cover with maybe a center cover oil filler? My XGS has the 455 covers with the filler up front and the vent at the rear.
The gas cap cleaned up well, and is one of those things that a camera exaggerates the finish on. In yer hand it looks fine and performs as designed. Picked up a 25 foot coil of new gas line and a steel inline filter for the new tank job. Rest of today is R&R from the weekend LOL... Bill
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So now the nightmare begins. New trank showed up just now and of course, its damaged. Waiting for a response from the seller. The repair is gonna cost more than the tank. Bets on whether they refund the cost and let me repair it? Whatcha tink? Wun Long Dong got me again.
I fully expected this; a tank I ordered last year from rot-auto for a '88 T bird I was flipping came the same way. Taiwanoodle as well. I had to repair that one too. JESUS H. CHRIST... Is it just me or the whole world going to hell in a chinese handbasket ??? Bill
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So. Did i jump the gun? I called and of course they are an hour ahead. Im on CST and they are on EST. I left a message and said Id call tomorrow. I also sent an email with a few pics and was IMMEDIATELY given a full refund. Another salesman sent me an email and said that FPAP (DBA First Place Auto parts) doesnt sell tanks, but trimparts.com does. Same address and same phone number. The ebay seller was in fact FPAP. I guess Ill be soldering tomorrow with some chinesium steel. YUMMMM. Cant wait. If this were in california Id be going for chemo next week. ws
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Always a bummer when parts get damaged in transit. Looks like it can be repaired though.
Loren
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It's how my Spectra tank arrived. Took the MAP gas and solder and 5 minutes later, it was happy.
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NEED DETAILS! Solid 60/40? Acid core? How was the fit up? This one is "OK" but you know how solder can run and run. Ive also got a giant electric iron plus old copper irons. Sweating copperpipe is a breeze but I hate soldering dirty steel. Advice??
Its clean and new; I can also MIG it... Bill
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It's just like soldering copper plumbing. I've used the solid solder and acid flux paste. The first one I did was an NOS Chevelle tank I found 30 years ago to put in my GS. The neck is different between the two . So I removed the Chevelle neck from the new tank and sweat in an original Buick neck. Mapp gas is the best to use for this task in my opinion.
Be sure the neck is at the correct angle though before you fix it. Looking at the gap, I would suspect that it is out of alignment a bit.
Good luck!
Loren
PS. Did you ever come up with the horns you were looking for ?
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^^^
What that guy up there said.
:violent5:
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Dear Bill, Michael, Loren, and mid-60s Buick fuel management specialists,
So now the nightmare begins. New trank showed up just now and of course, its damaged.
. . . . .
Bummer dude! :crybaby2:
Always a bummer when parts get damaged in transit. Looks like it can be repaired though.
Now that you have the instructions do let us know if you can save the patient through surgery!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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"Id rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal LOBOTOMY"....Jack Baselski, 1978
Well now, where to begin. Attitude. Got up today feeling positive about life and a gas tank repair. Had some coffee and kicked the dogs and gave them all their CDB treats. We all have old bones all of a sudden.
Get out to the shop to finally examine the tank up close and personal. Now follow closely:
This tank had a "hole" punched in it (probably with a water buffalo horn) that was "close" to the pipe diameter. The pipe going in at an angle to the tank presented a wider than desired gap. For those of yooz that have swapped OEM necks out, the pipe has either a flange, or a rolled "nib" in the steel to perform the solder joint. This is a pipe in a hole.
First off, if this were a domestic tank, I'd say it was shipped with a film of cosmoline. This thing was globbed with YAK FAT. The solder that was used is much harder than 60/40 and really looks like an aluminum repair with a propane torch rod sold on TV.
Being chinasteel, the material is junk (by US standards) dirty low grade material. Combined with the YAK FAT, it was impossible to clean (solder wise). My hands were absolutely BLACK from handling this guy, and I ended up with a clean rag and MEK to clean it up. Its still has a "filmy" feel to it. The rag looked like I wiped the black overspray off the floor. WHAT CRAPPY MATERIAL!
I probably shouldve taken the pipe OUT, cleaned it and began from scratch, but an initial fit up proved its location was pretty close to spot on. I decided to go ahead and make the repair.
If youve ever sweated copper pipe, you can appreciate the cleaning, sanding (or wire brush scrubbing, and a clean solder and good flux) for a good job. I went so far as to touch a pencil point burr into the groove to clean any galvanizing out 1/2" of either side of the repair, washed it 5X with brake cleaner and a wire brush, and blew it clean with clean air. I was using a propane torch (Im outa MAPP) and tried several fluxes (all industrial stuff) and tried 5/32 60/40 acid core, resin core, straight lead, and lead free solders and nothing would tin the parent metal. I even pulled out "Excalibur" my 500 watt electric iron, cleaned with a special cleaning block and tinned with clean solder and was only able to get an "acceptable" closure on the gap to about 75%. I ended up with 1/2lb of solder rolling around inside the tank. That was all stuck to YAK FAT inside the tank. What a pisser to clean!
So with a 75% seal and some decent drops that tinned to the gap, I ended up doing a cold repair with JB weld. I hate doing things like an amatuer, but 3 hours on a pipe sweat and I was at my limit. The JB started to get like "plastic" so I installed the tank AGAIN to verify placement. It was still spot on. I did increase the carriage bolt length from 3" to 4" for ease of nutting. Its pulled up 100% and curing overnight.
While going to the hardware store (Thank God for standard GM fasteners!!) my new SS sending unit showed up. Three days early. Tomorrow, Im gonna pull the tank down and install the sender, and pressure test the tank with 5 psi of air. Im also gonna replace the 5/16 frame pipe with 3/8. The OEM pipe is pretty soft from rust anyway.
If you look at the vent pipe, you can see the aluminum torch rod type of weld. I did blow the vent hose and its 100% clear.
Im not sure what kind of JU-JU the witch doctor uses in china, but I do know that if a gulag inmate takes 3 hours on a job like this, it would mean his last bowl of rice! Pretty good story huh???
So the filler is rigid and seems sealed pretty well. I hope the judges dont drop the plate and inspect the filler neck and sting me 10 points HA HA! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . .
Well now, where to begin. Attitude. Got up today feeling positive about life and a gas tank repair.
. . . .
I even pulled out "Excalibur" my 500 watt electric iron, cleaned with a special cleaning block and tinned with clean solder and was only able to get an "acceptable" closure on the gap to about 75%.
. . . .
So with a 75% seal and some decent drops that tinned to the gap, I ended up doing a cold repair with JB weld.
. . . .
Its pulled up 100% and curing overnight.
Well now that was quite a struggle!
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . But wait! You left the filler spout at the back! Don't you know that . . . . . . . Silly me, I forgot you don't have a wagon! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/pulled-in-red-wagon-emoticon.gif) . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Seriously congratulations on a difficult repair. At least you have the satisfaction of getting a tank from d'em chinamen for only the cost of your labor!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Ya big dummy LOL... I was all set to finish the rear assault today but ran into a hitch(?). The past few days Ive had a sore cyst in the small of my back. Ive had this thing for 50 years. About the size of 1/2 of a small pea. Its uncomfortable to slide into my truck and even to sit and lean against it. Today I got up at 0300hrs and it was killing me. By 0630 I was on my way to the walk in clinic. The Doc there took one look and said it popped and was infected. My back looked like I took a line drive from a softball. Hmmm. She referred me to a surgeon at the hospital, same network.
I grabbed a few pics while the coffee was cooking and a selfie back shot at 3 a.m. is kinda tough.
They open at 0800 and could get me in to see the sturgeon at 0850. By that time the doc was prepping for a local and a #12 needle to empty the sack! Jizz was sent to pathology. Cant be too careful anymore. By 0915 I was on my way home. Back is sore as heck and he recommended a day of heat of which I gladly obliged. I had to take care of it for ME, and when Pat gets home Sunday, she's gonna be flying low for her spinal surgery Monday afternoon. No driving for 9 days for her.
Two OXY's and a sulfa based antibiotic and Im already on the road to Wellsville. I sooo wanted to take Berty out for a spin today! Maybe tomorrow.
Forgot to ad that i got this in the mail yesterday. "Twas 9.99 plus 3.00 for the envelope. Still has POOR seatbelt instructions. Bill
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Got the tank down, assembled and pressure tested with soapy water @ 3-5 psi. Its all good. The I had to wrestle the Anaconda. It was a brutal fight but I won. A few bites but none the worse for wear. I put a 1/4" stud into the old and the new pipes and PUSHED the new stuff through. Im right where I wanted to be for today. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers . . . . who occasionally need caregivers of our own!
Ya big dummy LOL... I was all set to finish the rear assault today but ran into a hitch(?).
So sorry about the medical issues. Glad you were quickly on the mend. For a second there I thought you had found a hitch on the 'Lark. At least that could have been potentially useful! :laughing7:
Forgot to ad that i got this in the mail yesterday. "Twas 9.99 plus 3.00 for the envelope. Still has POOR seatbelt instructions. Bill
Think of it as "entertaining fiction" . . . sort of like seed catalogs mailed the 15th of January! . . . :laughing7:
Got the tank down, assembled and pressure tested with soapy water @ 3-5 psi. Its all good. The I had to wrestle the Anaconda. It was a brutal fight but I won. A few bites but none the worse for wear.
Glad you are one step closer to cruisin'! . . . . :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks for reading this stuff Ed! Sometimes its drivel, sometimes it a story or a rant, but its always the truth.
Got the new tank totally installed WAHOOO!!! Finished up the new fuel line to the pump. Pulled the battery out of the 72 XGS and cleared the prop and... NADA. The bastard wouldnt so much as fart. A few drops of gas down the carb and it fired right up; for a few seconds. I figured the whole system needed to re-prime. I did the force feed a few times and finally stayed running, but really lousy. Let it warm up for almost an hour. FINALLY got rid of the stench of the burning old gas, WHEW!! The new T stat and gage gave me 175F, so thats good.
It ended up stalling but good after a few revs, Had to prime it again with less than stellar results. Managed to get it to run long enough where it would stumble but keep running. Shut it down and put a pressure gage off the fuel supply to the carb. Got right around 3.75 psi. Hmm The good book says 4.5 lbs MINIMUM. Took the gage off and put a hose onto it into a coffee can for the "flow test" and not even a drop of gas from the pump. The pump came on the burned up 455 when I got it so who knows its' history. I ordered a new one for tomorrow morning.
A few questions for those "In the know". All the pumps have provisions for a return line. I have my 72 capped off and its OK. All the BBC & SBC chevies Ive had didnt use a return line. So is this a problem? I really dont want to run another pipe to the back... Im piped out!
Second, as an FYI, I put 5 gallons of fresh gas into a 20 gallon tank and the gas gage read 1/4 tank. If I can get this thing going tomorrow, Ill make a trip to Crack Trip for some non booze premium and mark the half and 3/4 levels for a comp. Bill
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Bill, The return line was for AC cars to prevent vapor lock.
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Thanks DOC!! AH HA!!! So just cap it off? The ID is only about 1/16". Bill
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks for reading this stuff Ed! Sometimes its drivel, sometimes it a story or a rant, but its always the truth.
However, when it comes to the replies . . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . Remember! You're askin' for it! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin_triangle.gif)
. . . . Pulled the battery out of the 72 XGS and cleared the prop and... NADA. . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . For shame Bill!! You haven't even properly introduced these siblings and now you are stealing parts from one to make the other work! . . . . You are setting up a serious sibling rivalry if I ever saw one! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
. . . It ended up stalling but good after a few revs, Had to prime it again with less than stellar results. Managed to get it to run long enough where it would stumble but keep running. . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Hmm, not sure what to tell you. First, do you have the correct cable to hook up your laptop to the ECU? If so, check to see if the air-fuel ratio is correct. Perhaps your oxygen sensor is off, or perhaps the manifold vacuum pressure sensor . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
. . . . . Yeah, I know. With friends like me you don't need any enemies!! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin_triangle.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I changed the stoichiometric ratio, by 11% at 500Ft. above sea level or, 29.93in.Hg at bAr and that seemed to cure the EGT readout at WOT. The EGT is now at a juicy 985 at full flow. MAP is minus 19# absolute, and steady.
Just having Bertha adopted, BAD LAD was willing to share a few toys until we get over to the resale shop in town. Its the big brother thing to do for a swaddling sister. A basic battery for well over 100.00 is just plain nuts! Im gonna grab the generator battery off my boat and see if it'll take a charge.
So after putting in a new juice pumper today that cured a world of woes, but now she dont have the whoa to match the go. I changed out the second NEW master cylinder and finally tested it today. The others (all new!) leaked or would not build pressure to bleed. This one I didnt research and found it to be for a disc brake car. Wrongo! This has the BIG/small reservoirs and the others were siamese. Almost like no brakes. Actually like NO POWER and on one axle only. Felt kinda F'd up.
Tomorrow Pat has her spinal cord stimulator installed with a 100,000 mile warranty. She's just pulling up now from the Sunshine State and drove almost straight through. Boy, I sure am glad we have dogs that I need to stay home for to watch LOL. Gonna be busy for a few days, so pardonne ma poussire ! Bill
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Dear Bill and Buick owners with a growing family! . . . .
I changed the stoichiometric ratio, by 11% at 500Ft. above sea level or, 29.93in.Hg at bAr and that seemed to cure the EGT readout at WOT. The EGT is now at a juicy 985 at full flow. MAP is minus 19# absolute, and steady.
Uh, . . . . yeah . . . . :icon_scratch:
Just having Bertha adopted, BAD LAD was willing to share a few toys until we get over to the resale shop in town. Its the big brother thing to do for a swaddling sister. A basic battery for well over 100.00 is just plain nuts! Im gonna grab the generator battery off my boat and see if it'll take a charge.
Well if they are getting along of course they can share! :laughing7:
So after putting in a new juice pemper today that cured a world of woes, but now she dont have the whoa to match the go. I changed out the second NEW master cylinder and finally tested it today. The others (all new!) leaked or would not build pressure to bleed. This one I didnt research and found it to be for a disc brake car. Wrongo! This has the BIG/small reservoirs and the others were siamese. Almost like no brakes. Actually like NO POWER and on one axle only. Felt kinda F'd up.
Yes indeed, master cylinders for disk brakes won't work properly with drum brakes. Even switching from disc/drum to 4-wheel disc brakes can cause "issuez."
Tomorrow Pat has her spinal cord stimulator installed with a 100,000 mile warranty.
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) . . . . Does that warranty include parts and labor? . . . . :laughing7:
She's just pulling up now from the Sunshine State and drove almost straight through. Boy, I sure am glad we have dogs that I need to stay home for to watch LOL. Gonna be busy for a few days, so pardonne ma poussire ! Bill
Don't get French with me feller! J'ai double nationalité! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/French%20flag%20emoticon%20small.png)
Seriously, hope Pat's procedure goes well and that you'll be back working Bertha in no time!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Always liked that plate BAD LAD!
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Thanks Jim... A pal back in Illinois has a GNX with the tag BAD DAD. There used to be a cartoon in the paper called "The further adventures of the Bad Lad". It was about a dork who tried to be a B.A. and always looked like the fool. Still trying to find a copy. That was 30 years ago.
So its been a few days. Pat survived the Florida trip. Four of her adult kids, their offspring (12 of them all under 13 y.o.) and a broken down 2008 dodge van (theirs) and 100*F in Tampa with 3.50 water bottles at Busch Gardens. I stay home to watch the dogs LOL... Her surgery, after a harrowing 24 hour drive and arriving sunday evening, was Monday afternoon. She's been pretty sore and has begun a rebound today. Thats cool. She's one tuff gal.
Had a chance to get in a little shop time today. Pulled the master cylinder off AGAIN and ordered another for tomorrow. Is the 4th time the charm??? I wish to hell they'd comp me on the brake fluid!
Pulled the valve covers off to re-seal them with some Right Stuff. Decided to upgrade to the chrome ones that had been shelved for 4 years with < 1 hour on them. They leaked (repops) and now with some right stuff maybe not. We'll see. Picked up an Art Deco aluminum air cleaner for 40.00 The stoopid edelhosers' (hate to advertise for a 3rd rate company!!!) are as much or more. This guy is chinaluminum Im sure, but fits well and is polished on the ribs. It sits just as high as the stock 455 cleaner tho, so its a hole in the hood (maybe a 'glass 1964 skylark hood?? Hahaha) to clear this unit.
After lifting the port side cover, I remembered that I had chipped one of the rocker arm buttons. #1 port was turned sideways and the rocker was riding off center. Not too bad, but not correct. I ordered 4 more at .99 each. I guess pulling the covers was a blessing. Hafta wait for the parts tomorrow to finish closing it up. Maybe its gonna run better and not be a gusher this time. Ill settle for a "duster".
The gas tank pad is OEM ca. 1964, re-used, like new, with no lousy build sheet underneath. Bill
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Bill,
Have you tried taking one of the master cylinders apart to see if the shipping preservative is causing your issues? They are really simple to get apart--just keep track of the order everything goes back in. I have found that a good cleaning of the guts with brake cleaner will make them work like they should.
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YIKES! Never thought about cleaning with brake cleaner; Hmm... Will that clean YAK FAT as well? Theres and LOL in there someplace! I can imagine if Wun Lung can do it so can I. Youd think that name brand stuff should adhere to some kind of quality control, especially on brake parts, no?
Youdo present a valid point Brian. Im gonna toss this one in and if its a failure, Ill try the cleaning route. If that works fine, but if its DOA, I will change brands.
I did some research on the manufacturing process on MC's. The chinesium units are cast, machined, and honed (and "maybe" cleaned) prior to assembly. AC Delco, or Borg and Beck and all other domestic units were cast, machined and SHOT PEENED for a hardened finish before honing. Just another chinaman shortcut or oversight. I'll go for the initial remark. I promise this; Ill get the RAST RAFF on this job! Bill
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Dear Bill, Brian, and mid-60s Buick caregivers who life adventurous lives,
So its been a few days. Pat survived the Florida trip.
. . . .
I stay home to watch the dogs LOL...
. . . .
Her surgery, after a harrowing 24 hour drive and arriving sunday evening, was Monday afternoon. She's been pretty sore and has begun a rebound today. Thats cool. She's one tuff gal.
Glad all is well after an "adventure!" :BangHead: I think you pulled the better duty with the pooches! . . . :laughing7:
Pulled the valve covers off to re-seal them with some Right Stuff. Decided to upgrade to the chrome ones that had been shelved for 4 years with < 1 hour on them. They leaked (repops) and now with some right stuff maybe not. We'll see.
I certainly approve of the decor! :sunny: I do hope you succeed in getting them sealed.
Picked up an Art Deco aluminum air cleaner for 40.00 The stoopid edelhosers' (hate to advertise for a 3rd rate company!!!) are as much or more. This guy is chinaluminum Im sure, but fits well and is polished on the ribs. It sits just as high as the stock 455 cleaner tho, so its a hole in the hood (maybe a 'glass 1964 skylark hood?? Hahaha) to clear this unit.
Good luck with the air cleaner. These engines definitely sit tall in the engine bay so air cleaners are a challenge.
After lifting the port side cover, I remembered that I had chipped one of the rocker arm buttons. #1 port was turned sideways and the rocker was riding off center. Not too bad, but not correct. I ordered 4 more at .99 each. I guess pulling the covers was a blessing. Hafta wait for the parts tomorrow to finish closing it up. Maybe its gonna run better and not be a gusher this time. Ill settle for a "duster".
You are such a big spender at 0.99! :laughing7:
The gas tank pad is OEM ca. 1964, re-used, like new, with no lousy build sheet underneath.
Still making progress and no need to get new if the old is in good enough shape. As you have discovered the hard way, often reproductions aren't nearly as good as the original 50 year old parts!
Thanks for keeping us posted!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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So on the advice of a fellow 2nd generation (1965) Skylark colleague, We are coming to the conclusion that a 1964 and a 1965 hood are interchangeable. Hmmm... I know the fenders and core supports are different and THOUGHT the hoods were as well. I have a near perfect (sans patina) 1964 hood and dont really want to hack an air cleaner hole in it especially if its got ONEYEAR-ITUS.
The two top pics are mine and the next three are a 1965 GS I was looking at but too much $$$. Neat car though... AC and a 4 speed to boot!
If both years fit, that doubles the odds of finding a spare. Some where along the line, someone posted a pic of the differences. Anyone care to field this one? Any input is appreciated! Bill
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Bill only difference in hood is the 65 special deluxe,sport wagon, skylark, gs models are drilled for a hood ornament! A 4 speed air car! Is not that common in 65! Rare would be either a skylark or gs convertible
Model with air!!
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Bill, if you pass on the 65 will you be sharing it as a lead? I might want to look at it. What were they asking?
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Thanks on the hood tip! Thatll help find a donor!
The 65 with AC and a 2x4 425 with a 4 speed is pretty rough. I think the guy wanted 6500.00 and wouldnt budge. I looked at that last year (virtually) when we drove to Texas to look at Capt America (1969 SS 396 chevelle that was roached). If yer still interested, Ill try and find the guys info. Im not sure but Im thinking St. Louis??
Check out the link here (#6) from racing junk... Bill
https://www.racingjunk.com/news/2019/05/24/tech-tips-shop-floor-wisdom-for-your-gm-muscle-car-part-6/?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Burnoutnewsletter#Tech-Tips:-Shop-Floor-Wisdom-for-Your-GM-Muscle-Car-Part-6-slide-1 (https://www.racingjunk.com/news/2019/05/24/tech-tips-shop-floor-wisdom-for-your-gm-muscle-car-part-6/?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Burnoutnewsletter#Tech-Tips:-Shop-Floor-Wisdom-for-Your-GM-Muscle-Car-Part-6-slide-1)
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Oh, and one for fun... Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6AFUVMdVJY&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6AFUVMdVJY&feature=youtu.be)
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Dear Bill, Jon, Jim, and mid-60s Buick lovers, :love4:
Oh, and one for fun... Bill
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6AFUVMdVJY&feature=youtu.be[/url] ([url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6AFUVMdVJY&feature=youtu.be[/url])
Thanks for the video! How did Pat enjoy the ride?
If you want to be a bit safer taking videos like this, you might want to get one of those smart phone cradles with a suction cup that secures to the windshield. I've been promising to get one of those for - oh at least a year! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/D'oh.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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HEY !!! At least homey dont text and drive LOL... Pats still on R&R and can't remember what the call that speed gage thing; "is it accurate?" ... Its close. And the gas gage is NFG as discussed. Fifteen gallons gave it a buried "FULL" mark on the gage. Its just a reference thing with me... Bill
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Thank you Bill.
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If you want to be a bit safer taking videos like this, you might want to get one of those smart phone cradles with a suction cup that secures to the windshield.
They haven't made one that holds my crack phone yet; oh wait, I take pics with a camera. Hmmm. Like in drivers ED class, the best offence is a good defense Ed.
Whatchfull eyes get no surprise...
Hindsight is just as important as foresight...
The car to watch is the car behind the car in front of you...
I just drive the car and let the camera do the work. :sleepy2:
A few years ago I was following a stinkin' Lincoln on the spreezway. He was rolling about 90ish reading a paper! I paced him a 1/4 mile back. The local gendarme zips up and stops on the overpass and shoots with with the X box gun. GOT ME! So the cop asked me whats the hurry? I replied that I was just pacing the guy now long gone. I also told him that this was my first stop in 20 years. "This is your lucky day". UH-OH! The guy wrote me for 82 in a 70 (thanks!) so at least it wasnt a wreckless driving ticket (20+ over). The gun printed out the specs like a gas station receipt with the actual speed showing at 91 mph. I laughed and the cop didnt get it. I dont usually get pinched. Young Bucks!!! Bill
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Dear Bill, Jim and mid-60s Buick owners who have to deal with that new fangled technology, . . .
HEY !!! At least homey dont text and drive LOL...
By all means no criticism intended. I have promised the gang here a video on Biquette prancing around, but I really would like to have some way to secure my smart phone before trying it. One of these days!
Pats still on R&R and can't remember what the call that speed gage thing; "is it accurate?" ... Its close.
I suppose it isn't essential, but Biquette finally has an accurate speedometer after 6 years. It is convenient to know and obviously if you want to track mileage and gas mileage it is important.
And the gas gage is NFG as discussed. Fifteen gallons gave it a buried "FULL" mark on the gage. Its just a reference thing with me...
Biquette's remains broken and I haven't decided what to do about it because I'm itching to go with a larger gas tank. Still, I thought there was a way to solve the gauge problem. My understanding was that the Spectra Premium tank had a way to adjust the impedance of the sending unit. Biquette's gas gauge was working fine before the engine went back to TA-Performance and the tank sat empty for a few months.
Does anybody know more about setting the impedance of these aftermarket tanks?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. Thanks for the picture of Bertha out in the sunshine! :sunny:
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All I know is what Loren had posted about the sender being a 90 ohm unit. Hmmm. My new "1964-1967" sender read 19-94 ohms- Full to Empty on my bench. The trade off is to install a 1965 gage. I thought mine worked at first. I put 5 gallons of fresh gas in the new tank and it registered 1/4. A trip to the gas station and it was bouncing on empty after a 6 block test drive. The sender connection and the frame ground should be good; at least they were last week LOL.
There should be a way to install a resistor in the sender line to collaborate the system. Any electronics' whiz kids on board?? Bill
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Looking good. I have a soft spot for those early post cars and you've nailed the stance on that one
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Thanks Bob! Everyone thats seen it seems to agree and it even feels good driving it. I think it looks just aggressive enough myself!
So my gage problem reading PAST FULL all the time with 15 gallons of gas in the tank may be due to no 12V+ to the gage, as in a bad fuse. I do know the radio croaked the first time I livened it up on the battery. Same fuse? I dont know. These guys seem to think no power to the gage makes it go 100%, Yet pull the sender off the tank and itll do the same think. Then ground the sender (tan wire) and it should go full EMPTY. I thought I was done underneath for a while.
BTW, the one VID shows the gage resistor off a chevelle and what it does and doesnt do... Read up! Quiz tomorrow, first thing LOL... Loren advised me of this and said the 64 to 65 is different at the gage or the sender, and that the two years are NOT interchangeable. Hmmm. I doubt some one pulled the resistor off my gage, but ya never know... Bill
https://www.google.com/search?q=calibrating+1964+Buick+gas+level+gage&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS805US805&oq=calibrating+1964+Buick+gas+level+gage&aqs=chrome..69i57j33.11846j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 (https://www.google.com/search?q=calibrating+1964+Buick+gas+level+gage&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS805US805&oq=calibrating+1964+Buick+gas+level+gage&aqs=chrome..69i57j33.11846j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
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I took a post 1965 fuel gage and patched around the traces/circuit board on the gauge to match the Printed Circuit Board of my '64 cluster since I have a Spectra Premium EFI tank with integrated sender/pump.
I had looked at using a slider potentiometer to adjust the resistance.
To do that, add the pot, fill the tank, adjust the pot so the gauge reads full.
Since full is adjusted and 0 Ohms is empty, then it would be accurate at full, and become "more accurate" near Empty, but sorta "iffy" in the middle.
That would be fine for a the type of driving you do.
Since I am running EFI, I try and keep above 1/2 a tank anyway. (because the Spectra uses a "bread box" baffle, and not a full ribbed baffle across the whole tank, and I have "leaned" enough the EFI Nazi says:
(http://www.wootmonkey.com/_data/i/upload/2019/06/09/20190609142620-eae48336-me.png)
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So is the POT behind the dash now? The two reference points would be hinky-dinky for me. I know Im the dummy sometimes, but could an adjustable "fader" be made to work? As in ON-OFF/Full/Empty? Ive got a few small micro-pots that would be unnoticeable. If the resistor in that video is any indication of needed impedance, the smaller unit should work with two small telephone sized wires to the gage? Bill
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Dear Bill, Bob, Michael, and mid-60s Buick owners seeking wisdom, . . . . :notworthy:
Ya' darn guys! :laughing7: I didn't have time to respond to this posting and you've got way ahead of me . . . . :icon_scratch:
Still, I might have what Bill needs.
All I know is what Loren had posted about the sender being a 90 ohm unit. Hmmm. My new "1964-1967" sender read 19-94 ohms- Full to Empty on my bench.
. . . . .
There should be a way to install a resistor in the sender line to collaborate the system. Any electronics' whiz kids on board??
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) . . . . I'll have you know that I have a Bachelor of Arts degree from the Physics department of none other than the University of California, Berkeley! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/scholarly_teacher.gif) So I should be able to solve problems like this! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/bouncey.gif) . . . . . Alas when it comes to electronics I've more or less forgot! . . . . :dontknow:
Fortunately, I am considerably better at searching the world wide web! I found this piece that appears to provide instructions on how to "trim" the output from your sending unit to work the 1964 gauge correctly:
http://alteredz.com/gagecalibration.htm (http://alteredz.com/gagecalibration.htm)
Let us know if 1.) you can make sense of it and 2.) if it does seem like it will cure Bertha's problem.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Excellent! After making a few computations in my head, and transposed onto a paper towel, I came up with this. I think we are headed in the same direction, but one of us stayed at a Holiday Inn last night and the other slept in the car. Hmmm. That dissertation, while making some actual sense, lends itself more to theory than actual.
With the new sending unit measuring between 9.0 and 94.0 ohms respectively , the known amount of fuel still being 13-14 gallons should now give me a known value of approximately 63.5 ohms. If I read that close to the sender, I am going to assume its proven accurate (+ or -) and the gage or feed (12vdc / -minus the resistance wire value from the sender) will be at fault. Discounting any extra resistance from loose or corroded connections.
Seriously Ed, Im gonna follow the step by step testing method from the service manual. Hopefully its a bad fuse, or a poor/open ground. If that fails, its off to more complicated methods of diagnosis...
The less complex translation follows below if you dont wanna do the math LOL. It took me 4 years to flunk algebra haha. :cheers2: Thanks, Bill
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WOW !!!!!
Thatmathiswayovermyheadi,moutahere. :icon_scratch:
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Yes Bill, the pot would be a slider. If you went that route, one that would be 0-60 or 0-100 Ohm use the contact on the gauge that is connected to the "wire wrapped" resistor to change the resistance between that and the sending unit. The other side of that resistor is a ground.
It might need to be run parallel, but I think is would work in series and raise/lower the resistance value of from the sender to the gauge.
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So, starting out with 15 gallons of fresh gas and the gage buried "FULL" we drove around town, maybe 20 miles, and made a few quick stops. The gas sloshed around in the tank and rapidly changed from FULL to about 5/8 for a few sloshes, then steadied back up at FULL. I have a feeling all of a sudden with 5 gallons left the gage is gonna rapidly drop to 1/8 to 1/4 again. I can live with that if thats what it is. I know when its full, but NEED to know when its getting LOW.
Started out for a spin today to finish off bleeding the LF wheel cylinder. Brakes want to pull to the right when stopping. Make sense? I bled the LF and the pedal felt good. Did a walk around and sure as shit the MC (#5 now) is leaking at the back running down the booster. Saw the puddle on the floor when bleeding and just knew... A finger wave confirmed that. The reservoir was a tad low as well. Hmmm. Finished the walk around and sure as heck, the LR had a puddle on the floor. Thats why the pull to the right. It was wet from the drum to the rim to the tire to the floor.
I know I cheaped out when I had the stuff apart and merely blew out the junk outa the wheel cylinders, and there was PUHLENTY. Now one is leaking so all 4 are getting changed. The rears are 11.00 each and the fronts (L&R) are 26.00 each. At least the fronts have fresh wheel bearing service and the rear drums were off as well. Its not like I dont have anything better to do right? But HEY! The GD valve covers are dry as a bone!
ROT-AUTO has the stuff way cheaper, but its 4 days and mucho shipping. Then if one leaks, out comes the K-Y again. Im already dilated. I can return these in town and have another almost same day. Bill
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Dear Bill, John, Michael, and mid-60s Buick caregivers who aren't so handy with figures,
In those immortal words of Silvester da' cat . . . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif). . . . "So that is how to catch a bird, . . . . . . . S-s-s-s-simple, isn't it!" . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/D'oh.gif)
Excellent! After making a few computations in my head, and transposed onto a paper towel, I came up with this. I think we are headed in the same direction, but one of us stayed at a Holiday Inn last night and the other slept in the car. Hmmm. That dissertation, while making some actual sense, lends itself more to theory than actual.
Sorry, I only glanced over the instructions. I was extremely late yesterday and that was all I could do. Looking it over today, it does seem correct and the fellow provides a spreadsheet so that if you simply want to get the resistor values you can use that (assuming you can beg or borrow access to Microsoft Excel or equivalent.)
With the new sending unit measuring between 9.0 and 94.0 ohms respectively , the known amount of fuel still being 13-14 gallons should now give me a known value of approximately 63.5 ohms. If I read that close to the sender, I am going to assume its proven accurate (+ or -) and the gage or feed (12vdc / -minus the resistance wire value from the sender) will be at fault. Discounting any extra resistance from loose or corroded connections.
Seriously Ed, Im gonna follow the step by step testing method from the service manual. Hopefully its a bad fuse, or a poor/open ground. If that fails, its off to more complicated methods of diagnosis...
You certainly cannot go wrong starting with the Buick troubleshooting instructions. That's probably the best first step at this point.
The less complex translation follows below if you dont wanna do the math LOL. It took me 4 years to flunk algebra haha. :cheers2:
WOW !!!!!
Thatmathiswayovermyheadi,moutahere. :icon_scratch:
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif). . . . Now that's actually quite simple. . . . . .
First, you involve the Higgs Boson (the "God" particle) and then, . . . . . you start praying like crazy!! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/pray.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Dont forget to face Bals Spire! Thanks Ed, I appreciate all the help you give me, but some of us knuckleheads call dem' brainiacs "Poindexter". Berkley EH? were you there for the Days of Rage? Thats a local phenomenon here now LOL. Im in for a proctological brake job tomorrow; the one behind the waste gate. Problem is I cant send the scope in first. However Im gonna eat that adenoma for lunch ! CHOMP CHOMP! I WILL win! Bill
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Well the brake wheel cylinders and new master turned out fine. Just enough of a struggle that I was not feeling guilty about "tuning up" last night LOL. Went for a spin today and guess the DS rear shoes were too soaked with brake fluid to come clean with brake cleaner or even some driving. No runs, no leaks, one error. Zapatos Nuevos probably monday. Picked up a 60's vintage LISLE brake tool at a garage sale for 50 cents tho... only a day late for the wheel cylinders but right on time for monday LOL....Picked up a BRAND NEW AC Delco battery for the BLASTER and put that one back into the XGS.
FINALLY diagnosed the horn relay. Horns work fine but the relay is bad. Can that be serviced at all? Hot wired the horns BLARE! There was a relay on edog that ended yesterday and I missed it. They guy had TWO and sold them both. No more available, so I am in the market for new or used or substitute. Bill...
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If you are referring to the horn relay that has the battery cable junction , they often can be repaired. Most often the electro magnet has a broken wire at one end or both. It is somewhat of a challenge to re-solder. I’ve fixed a few. The corners of the cover need to be carefully un-crimped It’s easy to break the plastic, so be careful. I also clean the point connection inside
Loren
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Thanks Loren! I thought maybe they were like a Model T coiled and packed in tar or something. Bill
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GS Sedan gave me a link to Ames Pontiac. They used pretty much the same relay but is right around 69.00. OPGI has the same thing for 110.00 I am def. gonna try to repair this one. If it fails, Ill use the post for an OEM buss connection and integrate a late model horn relay parallel into the system. I also need to install a main fuse right there, so what the heck, eh?
Man the horns from Trunk Monkey are loud as heck when hot wired!
Any other ideas? Bill
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So I found this obscure supply outfit... tons od NOS vintage parts. Is this the semi-correct horn relay Im looking for?
https://ocpnw.com/collections/horn-relays/products/nos-horn-relay-made-in-usa-hr121
Its a twin to the sold out edag units. Mine was toasted beyond repair. Soldering frog hairs to rusty unproven internals and wasting a full day is not my forte! Has anyone else retro fitted a modernrelay to replace this? I dont mind some wiring, but electronic stuff and me is like salt and pepper... Bill
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On another note re: fuel sender... When I installed the new SS generic sender, I put in 5 gallons of fresh gas and it showed about 1/8 tank. A trip for gas with another 10 gallons netted me pretty much full. I drove around a bit for a few days and filled to the top. The gage was down to 7/16 of a tank and I put in 12 gallons. I can work with that. These tanks being non baffled slosh a bit. Is it normal to have the gage fluctuate substantially while driving? Bill
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Bill,
Yes, that relay will fit and function just fine. It is for the 63 and older models, but will bolt up without any problem. I found one on a 62 or 63 big car in the junkyard and put it on my GS when I first got it running and it worked fine until I restored the car and replaced it with the correct one. If your car is an early build 64, you can just claim that it was built with some leftover 63 parts....
BTW---save your original for me. I guess I am strange, but I enjoy fixing delicate electrical stuff like that and have the equipment to do it.
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So just out of curiosity, how would you tackle this? Its riveted together and pretty crudy inside, although I did some really light scraping with a Blue Point pic set I've got and blew it clean with air. Disassemble and clean in an ultrasonic cleaner? Rewind the coil if its bad? If I can replace it, its yours, but if not, its a place to land my wires and put a newer relay in parallel with.
Since you understand the physics of this, with the ground used to close the coil/points, is this how most other relays work? All the instructions Ive seen have a schematic with all kinds of squiggly lines etc. :hello2: Thoughts or ideas are welcomed as always! Bill
Also found a few more Tungsten brand relays today (thats what rainy days are for LOL).
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=vintage+horn+relay&_sacat=6000&_pgn=2 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=vintage+horn+relay&_sacat=6000&_pgn=2)
These are HR16's and the one that sold was an HR 121. Anything HR 121 that Ive researched shows a late model style relay.
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Dear Bill, Loren, Brian, and mid-60s Buick tinkerers,
Glad to hear that you are making progress on Bertha and picking up some bargains along the way. This might be a stupid question, but I'll ask. Old Car Parts NW claims to have an NOS horn relay for a 1965. Here's the link:
https://ocpnw.com/products/nos-horn-relay-made-in-usa-hr142?rq=yr_1965~mk_buick~md_special (https://ocpnw.com/products/nos-horn-relay-made-in-usa-hr142?rq=yr_1965~mk_buick~md_special)
Is this the right part? If so it is a bargain as well.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I tried calling twice today and got a one ring automated message that This verizon customer is unavailable, thank you... CLICK! Zero responses to an email as well. Now Ive found a guy thats got two new TUNGSTEN brand NOS parts for 30.00 each (my offer as long as he doesnt try to have forced sex against my will on the shipping), it'll work. We shall see! Bill
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=vintage+horn+relay&_sacat=6000&_pgn=2 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=vintage+horn+relay&_sacat=6000&_pgn=2)
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GREAT! The guy accepted the 30.00 offer, includes shipping and free returns. BUY AMERICAN! This guy must buy out old warehouses... tons of NOS stuff that he doesnt have fitment guides for... check it out. 99.8% positive feedback. Bill
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Bill.
Re: fuel gage.
The 30 Ohm sender/gauges move a lot. The 90 Ohm systems were slower reacting and did not tend to fluctuate as much when pulling G's.
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That makes sense Mike... just overly sensitive. Those horns really BLAST! Missed that horn relay you linked to me by a day but found a few others. See above posts.
I even called a local guy that inherited his dads' 1950 Shell gas station with a ton of OEM inventory and no luck. 30.00 with free shipping. Today are rear brake shoes. The leaking wheel cylinder saturated the shoes and they glazed over... Getting good at taking stuff apart; especially since its all been cleaned and lubed haha. Bill
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Glad you found a relay.
And, yes, those honkers are made of Genuine 100% Canadia Geeseium! :laughing7:
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I sure am glad no more than two landed by the front door! ws
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Sooo... since its kinda slow here today, I thought I'd liven things up a bit LOL. Grinned and beared it and got an early start R&R'ing the rear brake shoes. I figgered with my luck, 1-1/2 hours per side. I get stuff done alright, but you wouldnt wanna pay me by the hour. Doing brakes for an old fat guy on jackstands aint no picnic. Got the wheel and drum off and rolled my shop chair into position, and had the old stuff off in 10 minutes. GREAT... By the time i quit, theres a pile of tools on the floor and Im sitting there too with the guts at face level.
Had to pull out the FRENCH for mechanics Berlitz volume III before I realized the Carquest owners wife ordered me the wrong shoes. This aint the first time. Hmmm. I pulled out the trusty Bible, its Sunday afterall, and found these shoes to be for the fronts. They are 2-1/2" wide and the rears are 2". Hmmm x 2. No wonder nothing lined up and the retainer pins were 1/4" short. Thats when I quit; for today anyways. CQ is closed on Sunday.
So now we are on to the who's and why's. Well howz about the who's and HOWS? WHO is the best and most reasonable $$$ supplier for window scrapers? These are the ones on the inside and the outside on the 64 2 door post. Both are rubber/non felt type. The inside of the door skin is steel and looks integral with the door itself. The soft panel is about 2-3" below that. Does this stuff snap in? I hope its not a 100.00 part(s) thats from a chevelle that I need to get cut down to fit. I need some coaching on this please!
Im also in the market for a 70-72 style GS sport wheel. The OEM special is about 20" in diameter and is ruff on La panza. The one in my 72 was a blue one that I painted black. I'd take that one and strip it for the 64 and get another driver quality black wheel (and horn button) for the 72. Any help is appreciated on this too. Bowl size the same etc.?? Bill
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... Doing brakes for an old fat guy on jackstands aint no picnic....
Ohhh oooohhhhh!!!! (http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2015/05/20/20150520083658-b6b23e1e.gif)
I wanna see a pitchur of the old fat guy on jackstands!!!
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Id hafta pull out the 4 ton stands for that hahahah! ws
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Dear Bill, Michael, and mid-60s Buick caregivers with a "creative" vocabulary . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/badwords.gif)
Had to pull out the FRENCH for mechanics Berlitz volume III
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) . . . . Oh sure! I'll bet ya' there ain't no such thing! . . . . :laughing7:
before I realized the Carquest owners wife ordered me the wrong shoes. This aint the first time. Hmmm. I pulled out the trusty Bible, its Sunday afterall, and found these shoes to be for the fronts. They are 2-1/2" wide and the rears are 2". Hmmm x 2. No wonder nothing lined up and the retainer pins were 1/4" short. Thats when I quit; for today anyways. CQ is closed on Sunday.
So how trustworthy are general auto parts stores for these sorts of items? I know they are showing more interest in classic cars since modern cars are just about impossible to work on at home. Still, these cars are over 50 years old!
... Doing brakes for an old fat guy on jackstands aint no picnic....
Ohhh oooohhhhh!!!! ([url]http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2015/05/20/20150520083658-b6b23e1e.gif[/url])
I wanna see a pitchur of the old fat guy on jackstands!!!
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Where is a well-placed surveillance camera when you need it! . .. . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Ill shoot a selfie tomorrow LOL... The parts are always an "appendix" to mein kampf. I changed providers, but still havent tried the front wheel cylinders yet. Heard horror stories about that too. Maybe Speers manufacturing company, Deutsch Fabrik Motorenwerke made them instead of Gulag, LLC. Will advise! Bill
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My blue wheel looks faded like that too. New ones are a little spendy.
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Yeah... aside from being faded and cracked (horn button is perfect tho!) and being 20" in diameter, is a few good reasons to swap over to a later GS wheel. When I got the 72 it was a painted sandal wood with a black wrapper on it (YECHH). I cleaned it to repaint and put it up as an oddity on the V8 board. One of the rarest colors out there! A guy swapped me a baby blue wheel that I cleaned and painted black and reinstalled on the 72. So now I need to find another in any color but hopefully black, so I can put the blue on on the 64. Any ideas about bowl and spline fitment? Bill
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I have used a 68 Skylark hub and turned it down to the 64/6 column size. the hub is for the 3 spoke 68 wheel, used on Buick and Olds and is reproduced. The 69 up hubs do not work if turned down to size, they leave a wide gap between the hub and column. I am thinking other people have used early 2 spoke wheel hubs and cut the third spoke slot, but I have not done this.
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Excellent info... Im guessing the 69 and up is for the column lock type? My mom had a 68 skylark with the two skinny side to side bars and a big flat vertical "paddle" style horn button in the middle? Any chance you can get a wheel diameter on that? I dont HAVE TO GET a GS style wheel, but do have the blue one on my 72. Im good at turning stuff on my lathe and JB welding it all together (spacer wise). More facts please when ya have the chance. 'Appreciate it! Bill
The black looks stock for 68 but the blue looks like a big car wheel ... notice the gap between the wheel and stalk??
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Bill.
On the '64 'lark, you loosen the clamp in the engine bay under the brake booster on the steering mast (shaft), and then the clamps under the dash and the mast tube will slide fore and aft to change that gap.
The clamp is about a 1/2 band with a single screw, it is also the lower mast bearing retainer.
I rebuilt my mast, and have swapped steering wheels, so I have had to adjust that a couple of times.
If the firewall seal the mast tube goes through is new or tight, squirt a little silicone lube on it so the tube will be easier to move.
The cup will move with the mast tube, as it is secured/anchored relative to the mast tube.
If you need pics, I will try to remember to take some this evening.
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Thanks Mike! I played with that exact clamp before getting the rag joint re-set. That one is pretty straight forward. I was thinking the later cup may be a different diameter that the 64. Ultimately, next winter Ill pull the mast out and pull the 64 3 speed bowl off and spin the shifter knob off in the lathe and then patch it for the factory look LOL... Gotta fool the judges!
Just finished the rear brake shoes. With all the master cylinders Ive had problems with, one had really nice power brakes but dribbled juice from the rear seal, the rest were a hard pedal. This is a new Cardone unit (this one has a bolt on cap), and still has a hard pedal. Think this may be a pedal to booster rod adjustment? The brakes are good, but you really gotta mash on 'em.
Getting a little braver; that ol' pecker sure does peel out! Probably need to shop around for a Sun Super Tach ! Still waiting for the new horn relay. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . . Gotta fool the judges! . . .
No wonder the judges end up so fussy - everybody is trying to fool them! :laughing7:
Just finished the rear brake shoes. With all the master cylinders Ive had problems with, one had really nice power brakes but dribbled juice from the rear seal, the rest were a hard pedal. This is a new Cardone unit (this one has a bolt on cap), and still has a hard pedal. Think this may be a pedal to booster rod adjustment? The brakes are good, but you really gotta mash on 'em.
I'm confused at this point. Does Cardone cylinder include its own power brake booster or did the car come with one? Biquette has had problems from time to time with the booster being slow to kick in. That does make the pedal hard.
Getting a little braver; that ol' pecker sure does peel out! Probably need to shop around for a Sun Super Tach !
You wouldn't want Bertha to be any other way would ya'? . . . :laughing7: Yes, I think you'll want a tach. Even with an automatic transmission it is useful to know precisely what the engine RPM is.
Thanks for the update!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Yeah Ed... the antique has factory power drums and factory PS. Maybe today I try Mikes method of testing the booster, if for no other reason, just to take it outa the equation. I am also gonna check numbers with carquest to make sure this is a power MC; piston size matters.
On the tach deal, the blaster is so quiet that you can listen to Brahms Lullaby and doze off, but once that gal spreads her, um, wings, things get hairy and loud real fast. You cant drive by gut feeling at warp factor 7 Mr. Sulu ! Being so well balanced also leads to climbing rpm, and you cant tell when to say when. I know Im outa practice, but hate to spin a rod or tear up something out back as well. Right now it IS fun to drive tho...
Couple of big shows coming up and wanna have both the BAD LAD and the BADLASS there! Gramas car sure gets attention for a beater! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers
Yeah Ed... the antique has factory power drums and factory PS. Maybe today I try Mikes method of testing the booster, if for no other reason, just to take it outa the equation. I am also gonna check numbers with carquest to make sure this is a power MC; piston size matters.
Okay that explains things. Biquette didn't come with power brakes, only power steering. We eventually tried to back fit power brakes but didn't have great success. Since you have the original Buick part - by all means try to get it working and use it!
On the tach deal, the blaster is so quiet that you can listen to Brahms Lullaby and doze off, but once that gal spreads her, um, wings, things get hairy and loud real fast. You cant drive by gut feeling at warp factor 7 Mr. Sulu ! Being so well balanced also leads to climbing rpm, and you cant tell when to say when. I know Im outa practice, but hate to spin a rod or tear up something out back as well. Right now it IS fun to drive tho...
Of course that's true. If you want a manual transmission, you want all the info you need to make the best use of it!
Couple of big shows coming up and wanna have both the BAD LAD and the BADLASS there! Gramas car sure gets attention for a beater!
'Tis the season for car shows! Best of luck in getting ready in time!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Re: Option load...
Hey Ed... dont forget the BADLASS is a Special Deluxe; its got PS, PB, heater AND carpeting and a tinted windshield. Gonna hit her with the power washer tomorrow LOL. Hope theres something left haha... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Hey Ed... dont forget the BADLASS is a Special Deluxe; its got PS, PB, heater AND carpeting and a tinted windshield.
My bad, I forgot Bertha was a Special instead of a Skylark. (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/embarrassed_blush.gif) So is the personalized license plate BADLASS taken? If not, what are you waiting for? :laughing7:
Gonna hit her with the power washer tomorrow LOL. Hope theres something left haha...
That's a bit rougher than I prefer to treat any car. However, Bertha might need it after all the years in storage.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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This just in, well going out tomorrow to the DMV... Bill
BADLASS (meaning of choice)
outstanding young lady, to go with my other car plate BAD LAD
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So yesterday came and went with no new horn relay. It was due in the mail. The seller swears it went out but no record with USPS other than being issued a tracking number. So the seller says to open a dispute, he'll refund the $$$ and if it does show up I can keep it. Thats swell, but still no relay. Oh well
So Pat and I took both cars to our little ad-hoc Culvers Burger car show. Usually 20-30 in attendance. Last night was Muskrats and Gougers as featured cars. A few goodies, but most were chinabillet specials with coffee can mufflers. Swell.
I spent 3 hours washing the BADLASS down with a nice brush and some Dawn, then progressed to a soft scrubbing pad just to know down some of the decades old grunge. It helped a little. Took the D/A with some #80 sandpaper to cut the other crud (still dont know what it was but it resisted the 80 grit too!) off the roof and doors, and another hour at least on the windows. Whew! just a primary cleaning; the first since 1980.
So Pat gets a second place prize. Dinner for 2 at Culvers etc.... Didnt even wash the darn car! She just smiled at the judges LOL... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who like making a "statement."
This just in, well going out tomorrow to the DMV... Bill
BADLASS (meaning of choice)
Congrats! :hello2: Amazing that it had not been taken earlier!
So yesterday came and went with no new horn relay. It was due in the mail. . . . .
Bummer dude! I hope the relay simply shows up late.
I spent 3 hours washing the BADLASS down with a nice brush and some Dawn, then progressed to a soft scrubbing pad just to know down some of the decades old grunge. It helped a little. Took the D/A with some #80 sandpaper to cut the other crud (still dont know what it was but it resisted the 80 grit too!) off the roof and doors, and another hour at least on the windows. Whew! just a primary cleaning; the first since 1980.
WOW! I never thought it would be that much of a struggle. What kind of a barn was this poor car stored in!
So Pat and I took both cars to our little ad-hoc Culvers Burger car show. Usually 20-30 in attendance. Last night was Muskrats and Gougers as featured cars. A few goodies, but most were chinabillet specials with coffee can mufflers. Swell.
. . . . .
So Pat gets a second place prize. Dinner for 2 at Culvers etc.... Didnt even wash the darn car! She just smiled at the judges LOL...
That's not so bad - I think I know who she will invite for dinner! :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Heck, she just called and invited me out for Mexican, YUMMM. Lookie what I got for 20.00 today! That and a complete set if window sweeps. FYI, they are from a 64 chevelle hard top and IDENTICAL to the BADLASS's plus 5/16" in length. They are still supple too! The guy is doing a balls out restoration. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s caregivers with a refined palette,
Heck, she just called and invited me out for Mexican, YUMMM.
Which car did you take to go to dinner and how was it?
Lookie what I got for 20.00 today!
Very nice tach from a company with a good reputation! So how do you plan to mount it?
That and a complete set if window sweeps. FYI, they are from a 64 chevelle hard top and IDENTICAL to the BADLASS's plus 5/16" in length. They are still supple too!
Another great deal! I'll need to renew the weather-stripping replacement program on Biquette. I had the door seals replaced when she was repainted in 2012, but the window sweeps are indeed getting a little "weary."
Thanks for the update! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The Mexi place is about 2 blocks away; the car moving deal takes longer than the drive in the truck. We made up for it today... About a 50 mile garage sale-ing odyssey. Home for camerones a la Guillermo, then a spin in the BADLASS around town with a nice sunset photo op overlooking Lake Michigan... Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkd_jJydyFg&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkd_jJydyFg&feature=youtu.be)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
We made up for it today... About a 50 mile garage sale-ing odyssey. Home for camerones a la Guillermo, then a spin in the BADLASS around town with a nice sunset photo op overlooking Lake Michigan... Bill
Thanks for the video and photo! That was a beautiful sunset on Lake Michigan! How long does it take for your DMV to process personalized license plates? It took over 6 months for Biquette's plates to finally show up.
Thanks for the update!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif). . . Ya' know though, . . . . one of these days you really should look into getting a hood for BADLASS! . . . :laughing7:
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A pleasure Ed! You know, This aint yer grandpas BROWNIE! LOL. Ive been out da hood for a while, but still waters run deep. I would gladly put the hood back on when I come across a decent 800 CFM quadrajet do replace that edelsnoozer and spacer/adapter. Otherwise, its a hole and a hood scoop in the near perfect original thats in storage for now. (Boooo). just starting to have some fun peeling around town with the gal!!
So today I was starting to install and piece some wiring together for the new tachometer. The BADLASS is now backed into the shop, and consequently the passenger side rear corner is right by my tool box. Everytime I make the corner, I get snagged on some loose trim. So I changed gears and decided to grab a PAL nut from the other side to draw the trim back down. It was missing a few. So now Im into pulling the slightly dinged up cross trim off so as not to damage it further. I guess Im getting ready for next winter mentally. By the time I finished up, I had a can full of trim clips which I think I can source, and also straighten the dinged up trim, however...
The rear valance and 1/4 panel "horn" took a hit when gramma was still driving it. I tried using some stout angle iron on the bolt holes to true it back up but Im afraid its stretched too far to come back, and I dont want a ton of bondo on it either. So I am faced with a few choices. Fab a new rear valance, cut the old out and weld the new in, OR, find a donor section. The very back edge of the 1/4 panel is creased pretty well also.
Now, do 64 and 65 interchange on these pcs?. It seems the 65 skylarks have a trim pc. and or lights all the way across. Are the 65 specials more plane with a valance pan? Anyone cutting one up that would entertain slicing some stuff off for me? especially if its over and the hulk is headed for the crematorium. Ive repaired worse, but donor parts seem like the way to go on this one.. Ideas? Thoughts?? Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
A pleasure Ed! You know, This aint yer grandpas BROWNIE! LOL. Ive been out da hood for a while, but still waters run deep.
In the voice of that eminent loudmouth Foghorn Leghorn:
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) . . . . That's a joke son! Gag that is! . . . :laughing7:
I would gladly put the hood back on when I come across a decent 800 CFM quadrajet do replace that edelsnoozer and spacer/adapter.
Okay somehow I had forgotten the issue even if Biquette has exactly the same problem. I dearly would like to gain another inch of clearance between the EFI throttle-body and the hood. One of those "to be solved eventually" sort of problems. I suppose the intake manifold is one for the Q-Jet - correct?
Otherwise, its a hole and a hood scoop in the near perfect original thats in storage for now. (Boooo).
Oooh! . . . what kind of hood scoop is that?
. . . . .
Now, do 64 and 65 interchange on these pcs?.
Sorry I don't know. Hopefully someone else on the board can chime in with an answer for you.
Thanks for the update!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Meant to be a bit clearer on that... I have the near perfect original hood that I hate to cut a hole in and mount a hood scoop on. if I do, I think a cowl induction knock off will ad to the stance of the BADLASS. That edelsnoozer carb runs lousy and Id love a decent 800 CFM Q-jet to replace it with. Between the height of the carbs and the adapter to the spread bore manifold (extra one inch right there), Ill bet I can gain at least 2 inches. The manifold is that factory experimental pseudo aluminum FE-B-4-WILLY unit.
Will gladly trade. The "snoozer" carb is new (now with 200 miles on it) with a bunch of extra parts. Electric choke model. Its really an AFB knockoff and would brighten up any nail head. I never wouldve bought it but the deal couldnt be passed up!! Keep yer GM car all GM.
Waiting for a member to get back to me on some sheet metal. He's cut up an old ragtop and save a bunch of panels and hope he can help me out. The job is one of those "while I'm in there" things with a trunk floor and a bumper chrome job. The bumper is perfect, but the chrome by where the tailpipe exited is blistered. May even go with the monochrome look next year; we'll see. Bill
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Bill.
To answer the question on the 64/65 rear valance.
The 1964 A-body had the same valance. The Special (typically) only had the center round emblem and tri-shield. The Special Deluxe (typically) had outer trim surround that wrapped the valance.
The Skylark had that trim level and the added had the large chrome trim panel between the tail lights and the outer trim surround that wrapped the valance.
In 1965, the Special had a different valance that had a stamped breaks to give it some detail, and only the round/trishield and chrome ring around the taillights. not center break in the tail lights.
The Skylark/GS had the tail lights all the way across and the full trim level.
Yes, you could cut out the valence and install anything from 64/65.
(there may be some other info I may have missed)
Hope that helps.
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Thanks Mike! Im gonna peruse that idea for a while. Either I patch in a 64 piece, or replace the panel with a 65 unit from light to light. I just found this pic off one of the cars getting stripped for parts. This is a 1965 valance with the breaks in the panel... Mine is just flat with a curve in it. Never simple is it??? Bill
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I had 2 1964 tail panels laying around here for years. One Skylark complete with 6 inches of both quarters attached. ... And one from my special. Nobody wanted them so I cut them up.......... Sold some patches to a V8 member and cut the rest up.
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Yer killin' me! I was gonna shout at ya, but ya saved me a dime LOL... bill
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Bill, if it were my car, I would add the 64 Skylark rear panel to it that fits between the taillights. It would cover all but a thin strip of the painted metal section (like is between the taillights and perimeter trim). A good body shop can pull that pushed in section out and get the strip that shows nice and straight for you, then the rear panel will cover the rest.
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Yep.
I got one off a Skylark, polished it and stuck it on my Special way back when.
(http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2018/11/22/20181122215503-44416e81.jpg)
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So Ill ad the trim panel to the wish list! That looks pretty sweet Mike. I already have the rocker panel covers from another skylark. Just dont wanna dress it up too much. Gotta go sleep this one off for now. Backs pretty sore, but fellas, hold the page open!!! Ill be back! thanks, Bill Zzzzzzzzzzz
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Hey Brian... is the weatherstripping channel intact or was that the cut line? How much $$$ plus the box. Bill
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Hey Brian... this is a test. Achmed stopped by with a new computer for me with 4x of all the good stuff I had before. I am interested in that panel. Can you grab a pic(s) for me? Thanks! Bill
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Always being one to upgrade, especially where un-obtanium parts are concerned, I did just that with that dang horn relay. I swapped INTO the system a conventional USA made unit that was about 21.00. The install was pretty simple and the darn horns are about 100 DbA. Loud and crystal clear! Thanks again Mike!
3 lousy wires and we were off to the races... Bill
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Just took a spin up to the store for potato salad fixins'. Got a nice pic of the BAD LAD and the BADGRAM LOL... Bill
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Always being one to upgrade, especially where un-obtanium parts are concerned, I did just that with that dang horn relay. I swapped INTO the system a conventional USA made unit that was about 21.00. The install was pretty simple and the darn horns are about 100 DbA. Loud and crystal clear! Thanks again Mike!
3 lousy wires and we were off to the races... Bill
I swear, when I tested them, it sounded like "MOVE THAT MOPAR!!!" :evil6:
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Dear Bill, Michael, and owners of photogenic mid-60s Buicks,
I'm glad that BADLASS now has working horns!
I swear, when I tested them, it sounded like "MOVE THAT MOPAR!!!" :evil6:
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Yeah, but does the horn work with Chebby's, Fords, Beemers, etc.? . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Just took a spin up to the store for potato salad fixins'. Got a nice pic of the BAD LAD and the BADGRAM LOL... Bill
Thanks for the neat pictures! I never through about trying to catch a car's reflection in a store window. I'll have to watch for that possibility in the future.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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REALLY??? I always do a "functioning light test" on all the lights when possible.
Today Im expecting a C.A.R.E. package from an ebay seller... BADLASS will be in a poodle skirt and saddle shoes next year, or "Tight dresses and lipstick, she's sportin' high heeled shoes", but alas, this morning, "She'll have to change her trend, and be sweet 16 and back in the shop again..." Always something aint it?
I bought the valance panel and tail lights and some misc stuff (including the unobtanium antenna base parts!!) but the remainder should be back for sale. Here's the original ebay link if yer interested... Bill :evil6:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Skylark-Parts-Tail-Panel-Trim-Break-Lights-Head-Light-Chrome-/113801936899?ul_noapp=true&nma=true&si=snAMuAYh7WCyAwFQu%252B%252B9Hly1hdQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Skylark-Parts-Tail-Panel-Trim-Break-Lights-Head-Light-Chrome-/113801936899?ul_noapp=true&nma=true&si=snAMuAYh7WCyAwFQu%252B%252B9Hly1hdQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)
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Nice purchase there Bill. If you aren't going to use the small birds, I would be interested in them.
Loren
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Hey Loren... Contact the seller direct. Ill provide you his link/info. He separated the whole package down to what I wanted and will liquidate the rest. Theres a bunch of smalls in there so look around. Counter offer what ever he tells you by at least 10-20%. Sorry I cant help with the birds! Bill
"eBay - chaddel8181" <chadde_dr4257sdfm@members.ebay.com>
DANG IT! I just cleared all my other direct correspondence(s) from everything including his personal contact. Im sure he'd respond to the above. For my package we shared at least 20 comms! Give it a shot and say howdy from me! ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I got the OPGI summer clearance catalog and there were a number of items I hadn't previously noticed. OPGI claims to manufacture their own 30 ohm sending unit for the 1964 A-Body gas tanks. They have them for 5/16" lines:
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1964/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-tanks/PZ00730/ (https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1964/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-tanks/PZ00730/)
and 3/8" lines:
https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1964/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-tanks/CH27718/ (https://www.opgi.com/skylark/1964/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-tanks/CH27718/)
There is a review from an owner of a 1964 Sportwagon who is very pleased to have his gas gauge working properly once more.
Alas, these units aren't cheap, and since OPGI makes them, it might be difficult to come up with a much better bargain. At least they are now available though.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. They also have "shallow style" and "deep style" gas caps. I wasn't aware of this problem until the gang at Orinda Classic Car ran into it trying to service the 1964 Skylark that is one of their regular "patients." The shallow style has a depth of 1/4" for the locking tabs while the deep style has a 3/8" depth. Both styles were used on various GM cars during the 1960s.
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Thanks Ed... but alas poor Yorick, I knew him well.... The new 3/8 sender is in for good and aside from being stainless, functions "well". A full tank measures full on the gage, and a bunch of driving around using some gas causes the needle to slosh around. When the gage reads 1/2, I can pinch in 10 gallons of gas. When first installed, a fresh 3 gallon can registered < 1/8 on the gage. Pretty simple so far, and pretty accurate. For all the '64 orphans, this is valuable info tho... Notice I cant call them stepchildren?? :dontknow:
Expecting my new tags any day now! Found a "new" Sun Super tach from Bruno on V-8. Anyone interested in the Autometer 10K tach? Need 50.00 for it. Bill
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The weekend is here and Ive got a lead from the H.A.M.B. to go junking on! The guy might be in IOLA Wi. for the weekend, but we'll go case the joint regardless! Bill
https://www.iolaoldcarshow.com/swap-meet (https://www.iolaoldcarshow.com/swap-meet)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick parts hounds,
The weekend is here and Ive got a lead from the H.A.M.B. to go junking on! The guy might be in IOLA Wi. for the weekend, but we'll go case the joint regardless!
Thanks for the pictures and good luck at the parts swap. Just be careful. They've added a flea market and you never know what might "bite ya'" there! :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Did a drive by yesterday and nobody was home. Several parked cars/trucks in the driveway leads me to believe they all piled into a van with a trailer and went to IOLA. Pat and I cant do it; its just TOO big. At least 2 days (plus 2+ hours each way from here). Five years ago we had to park and walk (15.00) almost 1/2 mile to get in for another 10.00 each. Local boy scouts fundraise by hauling stuff back to your car for tips, but with 20,000 people its easy to get lost. The grounds are massive and rolling hills (up here they called it Moraine) and usually a real good 90F++ with zero shade. We stick to the smaller venues. Never been to Hershey, but its gotta be almost the same.
After everything settles down, Ill get back to see whats what. Anyone looking for an easy "small" item? Ill see whats left. This 64 is supposed to be pretty ruff, but there maybe be that unobtanium coil bracket or whatever... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick engine bay interior decorators,
I moved this comment back to your BADLASS thread to avoid confusing the folks who want to keep track of the 65GS for sale on eBay:
Absolutely Ed! The new radiator filler is just above the battery on the starboard side and I have all the room in the world on the port (sans the horns). Just hafta run the O.F. hose across the radiator to get to the bottle. Thats also where the washer bottle will ultimately go. Thoughts or ideas? I bought a universal Dorman tank thatll never fit by the battery; maybe across the pond?? Bill
Biquette has a metal overflow tank that is tucked on the port radiator support. She also has the reproduction OEM windshield washer tank tucked in the space between the inner and outer fender on the port side. Here is a picture:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-windshield-washer-tank/i-3S4PNss/0/a02c6663/X2/Attempt%20to%20fix%20washer%20tank-X2.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-windshield-washer-tank/i-3S4PNss/A)
This is a preliminary photo before I painted the washer tank. The overflow tank is from Mr. Gasket. Here it is for sale at Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9133?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8rSz9oe64wIVCavsCh0qOAgkEAQYAyABEgKq2_D_BwE (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9133?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8rSz9oe64wIVCavsCh0qOAgkEAQYAyABEgKq2_D_BwE)
It is one of many models that have this narrow and tall profile so that you can sneak it into a tight space. If I had to buy another one, I would get one which is truly chrome-plated. It looks better and stays cleaner for about the same price.
For the windshield washer tank, you might have to take the hit and buy the OEM reproduction from Fusick. You can't beat the efficient use of space.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I agree on the repop bottle, but wheres the extra glass bottle for topping off??? I was concerned about a puke bottle, but the BADLASS refuses to squeeze out even a drop on a hot day. Motor rebuild exceeded my expectations. Just a hose pointed at the ground. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers who want to keep their cool,
I agree on the repop bottle, but wheres the extra glass bottle for topping off???
The glass refill bottle goes on the inner fender on the port side. I'm not going to bother with that because Biquette isn't that original and I need that space. I think the starter coil for the EFI ignition is already interfering with the space for the glass bottle. You might want to have that bottle though on BADLASS. It is a nice retro touch and they aren't that expensive to get.
I was concerned about a puke bottle, but the BADLASS refuses to squeeze out even a drop on a hot day. Motor rebuild exceeded my expectations. Just a hose pointed at the ground.
For the type of driving you'll be doing with BADLASS, that's probably the better choice. It is more original since these cars were before coolant recovery tanks. Unless you plan to drive for hours on a hot day you won't need the additional radiator capacity that a coolant recovery tank provides. BADLASS's engine bay isn't as cluttered as Biquette, but a 455 does make things a bit crowded. No need to add anything else that you really don't need.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Yeah... dont have all that AC stuff to contend with.Right now theres a 170F T stat in the hole and it NEVER creeps above that. I am delighted, maybe enough for a swig of isopropyl LOL... Just need a washer reservoir from fusik; (Pump actually works!). Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners with long "to-do" lists, . . . .
Just need a washer reservoir from fusik; (Pump actually works!). Bill
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . That puts BADLASS way ahead of Biquette when it comes to windshield washing! Of course the windshield washer might work better if I actually got around to installing it! . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/D'oh.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Can I borrow yer tank LOL ??? If yer pump is gawn or a gawner, just get a little inline job. You can even modernize it further with a clip onto the arm nozzle with a hose off of the OEM nozzle on the cowl for some down and dirty(?) cleaning! I know youre out in more weather than me, so that may be a point for you to ponder... Bill
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Hey everybody... we are LIVE from the garage !!! On line all the time! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers who like a clean windshield,
Can I borrow yer tank LOL ???
Uh, no! . . . . :laughing7: Actually I decided to put the tank in while the engine was out in 2015. Obviously, it was a lot easier to install without the clutter of the engine. It is even worse now with the EFI components on the port side of the engine.
If yer pump is gawn or a gawner, just get a little inline job. You can even modernize it further with a clip onto the arm nozzle with a hose off of the OEM nozzle on the cowl for some down and dirty(?) cleaning!
Actually the problem is more complicated because Biquette only had a 1-speed wiper. Instead of upgrading to the stock 2-speed, I opted for the Detroit Speed interval wipers. I had to make the "mods" described on this V-8 Buick thread of many moons ago:
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/modifications-to-a-detroit-speed-selecta-speed-interval-wiper-system-for-a-65-special.270488/ (http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/modifications-to-a-detroit-speed-selecta-speed-interval-wiper-system-for-a-65-special.270488/)
Since then, Detroit Speed has come up with an improved version of this system that includes the washer that is operated just like the 2-speed wipers back in the day:
https://www.detroitspeed.com/1964-1972-a-body-electrical/detroit-speed-inc-selecta-speed-wiper-kit-1964-72-chevelle-malibu-el-camino-121601-group (https://www.detroitspeed.com/1964-1972-a-body-electrical/detroit-speed-inc-selecta-speed-wiper-kit-1964-72-chevelle-malibu-el-camino-121601-group)
I do have the nozzles and all other other OEM parts I need to make this upgrade, but I just don't have the time to make another attempt to back-fit an aftermarket system into Biquette. Even if Biquette does get out year around, her windshield rarely gets dirty. Even our 2000 Buick Century doesn't really need her washer - I'm not sure even how to turn it on! So this is a project that is relatively low on my "to-do" list.
Such are da' conditions that prevail!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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It doesnt get much bigger than a 455 UNLESS it weighs a million pounds. Yep... thats me in 1964. Bill
https://youtu.be/c-YOoB2D3AU (https://youtu.be/c-YOoB2D3AU)
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com fans of external combustion locomotion,
Thanks for sharing! :hello2: This video has a nice close up of the valve gear and driving wheels of the Big Boy. I've always thought that the driving mechanisms Big Boys and Challengers were especially handsome. The parts really come together aesthetically. This is an example where function does drive aesthetics!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Yessir Ed... Form follows function. Mies Van der Rhoe... Heres a few pics of the workins'... Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cNaN2ZY79s&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cNaN2ZY79s&feature=youtu.be)
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com fans of external combustion locomotion,
Yessir Ed... Form follows function. Mies Van der Rhoe... Heres a few pics of the workins'...
Thanks for the extra helpings of steam locomotive goodness! :hello2:
The "Big Boy" in chalk on the smokebox is a very thoughtful extra touch since legend firmly states that these locomotives got their name because some workman wrote Big Boy" in chalk on the first locomotive in production. It definitely says: "I'm baack!"
Cheer, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thought youd appreciate that Ed! Nobody else got it yet! Heres an interesting bit from an engineering standpoint and from a trivia point of view as well. You rank a "1000" on steam loco trivia BTW! Bill
https://trn.trains.com/locomotives/2013/08/big-boy-story-began-in-1940
https://trainfanatics.com/10-things-you-might-not-know-about-union-pacifics-big-boy/
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https://youtu.be/2rTEv6EzOGI
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Thanks Mike.. the fireman has one of the most "consuming" jobs onboard a steam loco... water levels, steam pressure, firebox efficiency, wet steam blow downs... the works! The engineer merely drives the unit...
On another note, a guy on V8 was looking for throttle linkage parts so I linked him to the Pegasus website. What a great little outfit!
Picked up another master cylinder LOL... The one I had hasnt leaked yet (I went with new finally!) but still has a hard pedal. Sitting on an incline and stopped, the car would roll backwards unless really pushing on the pedal. Didnt care for that!
So this week hopefully, I am swapping an old ponch Q-jet for a 455 Buick unit from Cliff R. I think theres some funny business with the edelhoser vacuum port. Im painting inside the house right now, but when I get the new MC installed, Im gonna pull the hose off the booster to assess the real vacuum pull of the e-brock. The vacuum is tapped off the back of the base plate. Had one or two MC's that had nice PB, but they leaked! Typical aint it? I refuse to give in!! Bill
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So today I finished up painting the clown cave. WHEW !! That some yeller stuff in there! So then the dogs start raissing hell... The Mails in! Much to my chagrin...
Only in Wisconsin! Bill
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Dear Bill, Michael, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Glad to see that you already have BADLASS's plates. That sure was quick! Biquette's plates took over 6 months. Sadly that's now things go in California these days.
So when are you going to post pics of the plates installed on the "Secret experimental 1964 GX 455"?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Gonna be pulling a Michaelangelo for the next few days. I used to cut the edge at the ceiling with a brush, but now have a super whamadyne roller with a flip up edger that make short work outa it. Did a PERFECT edge in the kitchen (2nd coat) in 15 minutes whereas it took an hour + with a brush for mediocre results. Still have the 12x22 LR and 10x12 office to go. Moving all the junk is the work part!
BADLASS is having stopping problems still (very hard pedal) so the master cylinder is off and a new one needs clear coating, bleeding and installing. Theres a car show tomorrow evening and sure would like to sport that new tag right next to the BAD LAD. We'll see how the meth holds out LOL.. (That IS a friggin' joke!). Bill
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Great plates!
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So the tags are on whippe!! I also changed out the NEW master cylinder (now on #6 or 7) due to a rock hard pedal. Booster checks out good. Had decent brakes before but as I said a hard pedal. Now it feels like no front brakes. I bench bled the MC and installed. Im now gonna bleed the fronts with the sucker thang. I dont get why the pedals are so hard. I had that was perfect but the bastard leaked. IDEAS PLEASE??? Bill
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Dear Jim, Bill, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Sorry, I don't have any ideas of what you can do about your brake problem. Thanks for the pictures of BADLASS with her personalized name plates installed - looks great! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Brakes took another full bleeding and are at 95+% right now. Gonna let them settle out for a final blood letting LOL... Took a spin down by the lake. Have a car show tomorrow; about 25 miles round trip for the kissin' cousins. Ill get a shot of them "neckin'" haha. Tomorrow is for fun and Monday we start the living room. Its already stripped down for paint. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who are fussy about their license plate frames,
Brakes took another full bleeding and are at 95+% right now. Gonna let them settle out for a final blood letting LOL...
Glad to hear that you've got the brakes working mostly as you want them to.
Took a spin down by the lake. Have a car show tomorrow; about 25 miles round trip for the kissin' cousins. Ill get a shot of them "neckin'" haha.
Can't wait to see da' pics of da' kissin' cousins! :hello2:
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Just one thing I don't get. So why do you need barbed wire around BADLASS's license plate? You really have critters trying to eat license plates in your parts? . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Becauss zer ist no escape from ze fraulein stalag 64! Show went well, but with rain last night and fresh manure going on with the farm next door, the bugs and sun were pretty horrendous. Still got to support the local LIONS club 2X, Pink Heals, and in general a community of 926 humans. There were some interesting vehicles tho. Lotsa older in patina units. Even old Chiselers have there day! Bill
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Thanks Bill for sharing da' cool pics! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/kewlpics.gif)
I never get tired of looking at classic cars! . . . :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Tres Bien! A pleasure for sure! Bill
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...
I never get tired of looking at classic cars! . . . :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
If you've seen one, you want to see them all. :glasses9:
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Been kinda busy the last few weeks painting inside the house and time at the pistol range with Pat and I honing our skills. Heres a few pics from last nights ad hoc car show... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers who want to be "civilized" about being in the outdoors,
Been kinda busy the last few weeks painting inside the house and time at the pistol range with Pat and I honing our skills. Heres a few pics from last nights ad hoc car show...
As always, thanks for da' pics! :hello2:
It is be really hot around here so not exactly classic car weather.
However, I'll "beg to differ" on the photo that reads:
"Camping in the 1960s. . . . . "
Right now on eBay you can pickup this 24 feet long 1967 Airstream Tradewinds :
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xuUAAOSwRn5dUJZy/s-l1600.jpg) (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Airstream-Tradewind-24-RARE-Vintage-Travel-Trailer/123871782875)
Now that's my idea of 1960s camping!! :sunny:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Pretty cool, but it needs a cut and buff with Tripoli and a Sisal wheel. All this time Ed, I though you were a purist, making an open air bed on a layer of pine needles and a sleeping bag under the stars. Look at that happy family camping in that new tent on a manicured lawn. Dads got the new aluminum cooler with soda and snacks with white jeans and a plaid shirt and moms wearing her favorite camping ensemble.
Thats our world as we KNEW it. Now campfire smoke gives you cancer and the Northern Lights will no doubt give you cataracts. We all need to stare into the sun for a while.
I hope this was the amendment needed. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers who really can't take on amother "patient."
Pretty cool, but it needs a cut and buff with Tripoli and a Sisal wheel.
No doubt that trailer is only a restoration candidate. Alas that is the enigma I find myself in. If I were to get a vintage trailer and restore it, it would have to look as nice as Biquette. If I had Biquette and a beautifully restored travel trailer, how could I ever take them on the road and get them utterly messed up? I'm still working on Biquette's website and this photo really capture the problem:
(http://www.canebas.org/Biquette/Images/Biquette%20and%20Newtonian-Cass%20telescopes.jpg)
Could I ever take Biquette camping such that she gets as filthy as this?
All this time Ed, I though you were a purist, making an open air bed on a layer of pine needles and a sleeping bag under the stars. Look at that happy family camping in that new tent on a manicured lawn. Dads got the new aluminum cooler with soad and snacks with white jeans and a plaid shirt and moms wearing her favorite camping ensemble.
Alas, my memory isn't so rose-colored glasses as yours. I remember the bug bites, sleeping on the rocks, being so cold that I would walk simply to try to warm up, etc. Camping isn't what it is cracked up to be!
Thats our world as we KNEW it. Now campfire smoke gives you cancer and the Northern Lights will no doubt give you cataracts. We all need to stare into the sun for a while.
I wish I could help you more on this one, but this is where my faith kicks in. There is a world to come where everything from classic Buicks to camping in the outdoors can happen with genuine peace and happiness. We won't find it in the past, but I truly believe what we wish to find in our past will be fulfilled in that future to come.
I hope that's a bit of comfort . . . .
Edouard
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Merci' Ed... That helps quite a bit. Ya know I stepped in here about a year ago and just wanted to BS (Buick Stuff) with the other Gen II (III?) owners and liven things up with a little digital photography. Better wash that crank before you install the conn rods eh?
One time a pal and I rode motorcycles about 200 miles for a camp out in late fall. Fifty miles from our destination we got caught in a downpour. We were soaked. At That point we elected to get a cabin for the night. The problem being that late in the season, everyone was closed except for one and it was un-heated. We checked in and took off for dinner. We road around for a half hour or so and let the bikes get good and hot, then rolled them inside with us for a "radiator". I couldnt see sleeping in a cold wet leather jacket. So much for camping LOL.
Just awaiting that peace and happiness to kick in. Lawyers , guns, and money only score 2 out of 3! Bill
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Warp factor 7 Mr. SULU!! Bill
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I like the stance on the 64 Bill! Also, nice nod to Warren Zevon!
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I like the stance on the 64 Bill! Also, nice nod to Warren Zevon!
“Saw a werewolf with a Chinese menu in his hand walkin through the streets of Soho in the rain”
Werewolves of London
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Well, I guess I'm just an excitable boy... Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP5Xv7QqXiM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP5Xv7QqXiM)
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I don?t always listen to Zevon, but when I do so do my neighbors. :rocker:
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Saw this on the back of a dragster wing at the US Nationals and it made me think of this thread. 😀
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Thats GREAT! Bill
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So October 1st came and went, and to be a real party pooper, we pulled the boat early this year to get some well deserved work done. With all the rain we've had, and the lake being up >3 ft, the river rose and left me about 10 inches of clearance on the main drag bridge to clear. Its only 2 blocks from my dock to the lift well at the boatyard. I ended up pulling the radar antenna (radome) off the arch and made the trip with about 6 inches to spare. The water rose another two inches yesterday and is usually 2 days behind the rain with the tributaries in the county continuing to feed the West Twin river. The firm 20Kn wind didnt help either.
About 2 days before that I at least got around to an oil change. If youve never done boat work, you may appreciate this: You cant pull the drain plug from the pan with an inch of bottom clearance. I run the 454s for 1/2 hour dockside to get them warm. Then I pull out the oil pressure senders and attach a 1/8 pipe fitting and a hose to a bucket. Fire them up at idle and the oil pump empties the crankcase in about 20 seconds. Shut down and change the filter and refill. Oil was good and black. Added a 1/2 qt of STP for the zinc (ZDDP) for the cams and 7 quarts of oil, and called it done. Went home and did the oil in the BAD LAD as well. Getting that one ready for the storage locker this weekend. Ambition stamina, and age seem to go hand in hand. Today was a kitchen sink drain piping job; another favorite LOL...
Got my new (1971) quadrajet all apart and cleaned in the harbor fright ultrasonic cleaner. Turned out good. Picked up the new choke pull off today and the secondary was ordered from the mfgr. and due here next week.
Tomorrow Im gonna start winterizing the boat. Thats a two day process draining all the water, installing pink and green anti freeze through the systems, then next week start the shrink wrap frame and wrap it. Thats another 2 full days. Then an additional day pulling the floating docks to the boatyard with the 14 foot aluminum boat and dragging them out on the ground. Then the real work can begin haha... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who also venture on the "high seas" (or what passes for them,)
So October 1st came and went, and to be a real party pooper, we pulled the boat early this year to get some well deserved work done.
. . . . .
About 2 days before that I at least got around to an oil change. If youve never done boat work, you may appreciate this: You cant pull the drain plug from the pan with an inch of bottom clearance.
. . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Hold it right there! I see you problem and I've got the perfect solution! Get a sailboat instead!! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Yeah, yeah, I know. There is a whole lot of maintenance required even on a sailboat. At least in California we didn't have prepare anything for the winter. Best of luck in all the preparations. Please do take a few more pics of BADLAD and BADLASS before they hiberate for a long winters rest!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Dear Ed and fellow yacht and LAND YACHTSMEN;
WILLCO! Ya know that energy ALWAYS comes at a cost. Either its maintenance plus the fuel, or the maintenance and the "soul" food for the energy it requires to tack, set a main sail and keep adjusting the spinnaker. Oh, and the cost of replacing rigging and wind bags as they wear. It never comes free. Last time we made it across the lake was a 60 mile trip in about 4-1/2 hours--- so easy to track the course on the GPS!
Got all the outside stuff removed today, i.e. 4 antennas, flag staffs, dock lines and got the shore power and water hooked back up for the Big Sleep. Being an antique boat with its fair share of leaking joints etc, I am always replacing rotten panelling and ceiling panels in the pilot house. This year its all coming out and getting replaced with 1/8" & 3/16" aluminum sheet painted with Interlux 2 part polyurethane paint. Another mtce. issue solved. If anything ever happens to me, I sure dont want Pat stuck with an old boat that needs a facelift. Gonna start draining stuff tomorrow; a little at a time. That way the chores dont become overwhelming AND a T shirt beats a snowmobile suit by spades! Bill
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Found the "right" steering wheel on C/L and probably gonna pick it up today. Seller also has a T 400 front driveshaft yoke which is also the same as a Super T-10 four speed. Thats what I used on my 455/4 speed conversion. I really dont need it but TPIR, so if yer looking for one, sing out! May possibly need a jiffy sleeve. Yoke as-is will be pretty reasonable plus the box, of course!
Steering wheel is a Grant 14" job in like new shape, pretty cheap. Needs the hub and horn kit tho. Bill
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Bill,
Gotta watch that horn kit if you ever want the horn to work. That collar that goes on first is a pre load on the upper bearing that seats in the turn signal switch. Just thought I better mention it before you get to it. If horn works now you should be OK with a little patience. If not,it would be a good time to find out why. Dan
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Thanks Dan... Any tricks involved? I had the wheel off a while back to tighten a loose signal switch. At the same time I had the rag joint apart to clean and paint and when itwas all back together the horn didnt work. Hmmm... That turned out to be two bad horns and a bad relay. Mike came to the rescue with two new horns and I reverse engineered a late model relay and the horns blow a solid tune.
The large gap was after playing with the rag joint, then corrected with the clamp, and the after effect was better than the OEM space shown with the stick still in place. Im gonna pull the stick collar off and turn the stalk knob down on my lathe and fill and paint it.
Now I need to find the right hub and horn kit, but the new wheel looks super! Bill
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Dear Bill, Dan, and "conservative" mid-60s Buick caregivers, . . . .
Found the "right" steering wheel on C/L and probably gonna pick it up today.
. . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . . Oh I dunno' Bill. . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/scratch_head.gif) . . . . . I can tell that you are a conservative guy, but even so, sooner or later BADLASS is going to have to make a left hand turn and what are you going to do then - use a left steering wheel? . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
P.S. Of course a gag like this especially appropriate from a fellow who is left-handed! :laughing7:
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LOL! A good Turk always walks to the right... Midnight Express-1978 Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shlBZZ-IQYY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shlBZZ-IQYY)
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According to the judge,AKA Hudson Hornet....if you want to go right,turn left.....not sure that was real good advice no matter how you translate it,but it looks like you got it under control with that gap. That adjustment is most of the battle. Once you put on the new hub and torque it down,you may have to adjust that lower clamp,but it is easier with column bolted to steering box. You may or may not have to loosen the two bolts and upper clamp under dash to slide outer column to change gap. The important part is making sure the aftermarket hub assembly is keeping spring pressure on the plastic hub that seats the spring and holds the contact ring against the horn contact stud(also has light spring pressure).
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ya5sJjpCxtU
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Thanks again Dan... IIRC, that contact is a "commutator" that keeps contact as you turn the wheel. Will have ohmeter in hand! Bill
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Ran into some weird mounting stuff and need some help. The wheel I bought seems to be a Forever Sharp brand. Not even too sure about that, and cant seem to get a straight answer outa the 10 people on ebay Ive contacted. Most of the Grant wheels seem to have a large diameter bolt pattern with FIVE fasteners. This wheel has SIX and really looks like a stock GM (Buick GS) sport wheel pattern.
Its really a nice wheel and I sure would like to use it. Its in almost new condition. Any thoughts or ideas? Again, heres a pic of the 14" diameter wheel and a tracing of the mounting pattern. Any help is appreciated! Bill
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Redrill your hub or make an adapter plate to go between the different bolt patterns.
But then the horn button becomes a challenge!
The hub mounts I see online often have provisions for either 5 or 6 hole.
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Ran into some weird mounting stuff and need some help. The wheel I bought seems to be a Forever Sharp brand. Not even too sure about that, and cant seem to get a straight answer outa the 10 people on ebay Ive contacted. Most of the Grant wheels seem to have a large diameter bolt pattern with FIVE fasteners. This wheel has SIX and really looks like a stock GM (Buick GS) sport wheel pattern.
. . . .
Hmm, that's curious indeed. Unfortunately, as you say, it is very different from a Grant steering wheel. Here is the bolt pattern for Biquette's steering wheel:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-Rk4c6gD/0/353ec705/XL/Steer%20wheel%20wrap%20-%20rear%20view-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-Rk4c6gD/A)
I didn't realize that at least some Grant wheels had such an exotic arrangement until your question. I hope someone else can chime in with some ideas.
Best of luck!
Cheers, Edouard
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Frank from across the hall seems to think its a Nardi high end unit. Ive seen several today that are in excess of $1k! I may hafta pull the wheel off my '72 for comps. I can always spin an adapter out on my lathe, but then theres the bowl issue and horn make up. Hmmm Ideas or thoughts? Bill
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOMO-Nardi-Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Chevy-GM-57-67/191466342571?hash=item2c944888ab:g:uUQAAMXQ1PNRaVEf (https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOMO-Nardi-Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Chevy-GM-57-67/191466342571?hash=item2c944888ab:g:uUQAAMXQ1PNRaVEf)
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=NARDI+steering+wheel&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=16 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=NARDI+steering+wheel&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=16)
AND THESE ARENT THE HOMO FROM TULSA's STUFF EITHER!
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Will it bolt up to the GM hub like the early vette sport wheel? I think that hub is same as Buick and others with 6 bolts.
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Found the exact wheel on ebay yesterday. Now I guess Ill need to measure the hub pattern on my '72 and then try to find a hub off a 64-68 (pre column lock) GM unit. Several ebay sellers have helped identify the wheel and help with hubs that are all over 100.00 !! "The best laid plans of mice and men..." Bill
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Moto-Lita-Style-Classic-Wood-14-Steering-Wheel-Rim-Momo-6-bolt-9-Rivets/202386598773 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Moto-Lita-Style-Classic-Wood-14-Steering-Wheel-Rim-Momo-6-bolt-9-Rivets/202386598773)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Kit-for-MOMO-NRG-Sparco-fits-AMC-Buick-Cadillac-Chevy/123933184616 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Kit-for-MOMO-NRG-Sparco-fits-AMC-Buick-Cadillac-Chevy/123933184616)
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I had this hub bookmarked, it's for a GM wheel and early column. You'll have to double check dimensions of your column and wheel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-GM-STEERING-WHEEL-HUB-M1336/321639866943?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-GM-STEERING-WHEEL-HUB-M1336/321639866943?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649)
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Thanks Walt! It appears that my '64 column is about 3.550" OD just below the wheel face. This says '67 will fit but all the "fits" show 1968 models (BOP & C). Keep 'em coming! I did save it in my ebay watch list for future reference! Bill
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Well, since its been almost 40f and windy with rain, I figgered Id get some shop work done before we get snowed in.Crazy weather!! Finished up on the new carb for the BAD LASS with outstanding results. 3-4 spins and she lit right off. That was a re-bushed base plate with two new pull-offs. Getting ready for some body work, so I wanted to make sure she ran with the new carb. I still need a fitting for the brake booster and some sunshine for a test drive. The the disassembly starts for the rear fender and valance replacement and a new trunk floor. Then some wild a$$ paint. Retro of course.
To ad some color here, my pal Richie from Dwight Ill. sent me a bunch of pics from the Morris, Il. car cruise finale for the year. Puttem' away guys, and dont forget to check the ant-freeze! Bill
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Just some more car show stuff... Bill
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Just some more. Im really lovin' this 88 Olds... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Well, since its been almost 40f and windy with rain, I figgered Id get some shop work done before we get snowed in.Crazy weather!!
Unfortunately the weather seems out of calibration or something! :icon_scratch:
Finished up on the new carb for the BAD LASS with outstanding results. 3-4 spins and she lit right off. That was a re-bushed base plate with two new pull-offs.
Congrats on resolving the carburetor issues for BAD LASS!
To ad some color here, my pal Richie from Dwight Ill. sent me a bunch of pics from the Morris, Il. car cruise finale for the year. Puttem' away guys, and dont forget to check the ant-freeze!
Thanks for sharing! :hello2: We are indeed closing in on "d'em wintertime classic car blues" when cars need to be hidden away from the elements.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Just took Pat out in the BADLASS for the last ride. Trip was two-fold; get garbage stickers and test run new/rebuilt Q-jet. Garbage stickers are 2.50 each and the Q- jet is like night and day from the edelhozer. Heat crossovers are still plugged (took some crappy advice across the hall from a exsspurt!) and engine runs lousy until totally heat sinked warmed up, then V-O!! (Dad used to call V-O whiskey "VATCH-OUT" !). A little hole shot from a roll, and at the same time open her up and it was "Light my Fire". Second gear did the same thing.
Car is in Garage "A" for a day till the weather gets a tad better, then I'm gonna pressure wash underneath, all the door jambs etc, in prep for some paint work. Got my NEW 7 pc. trunk floor kit from JEGS for 236.00 with free 1-1/2 day shipping. Primered too. Outstanding!
Ill probably hafta start a 2019-2020 thred called "I'm floored". LOL. Bill
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=TF03-641S&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false (https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=TF03-641S&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Just took Pat out in the BADLASS for the last ride.
. . . . .
What! No pics! . . . . :icon_scratch:
Anyway, glad your carburetor issues are resolved and that you'll be continuing to work on BADLASS this winter.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Me too! The stock quad and air filter (slightly modified with a 2" long snout!) may just clear the hood too. Another plus! No pics today... we were running between the drops and wind. Winter is just around the corner. Still have to shrink wrap the boat. Thats two days worth and need decent weather for that. "No rain and No wind!". I'll get some pics tomorrow during the pressure wash job.
Need some ideas for paint. Im sticking with the diplomat blue (or darker and bluer LOL) with some bright white accents. Im actually leaning towards a white bumble bee stripe, or a white tail panel (looks white from behind), not too sure about some delicate flame stuff or even some lace stuff in the sail panels. We'll see how the MOTA sways my judgement LOL... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
No pics today... we were running between the drops and wind. Winter is just around the corner.
Well if old man winter is bothering you a bit to soon, just send him our way. We are staring at near record heat and a Red Flag fire danger. I'd gladly take all that rain off your hands!
Me too! The stock quad and air filter (slightly modified with a 2" long snout!) may just clear the hood too. Another plus!
. . . .
Congratulations!
Need some ideas for paint. Im sticking with the diplomat blue (or darker and bluer LOL) with some bright white accents.
. . . . .
Okay, so I'm a neophyte when it comes to broader possibilities of color. So what does Diplomat Blue look like on a car?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Diplomat Blue from Buick on my (one of my) 1970 GS 455s and my 1973 stage I-4 speed GS, was a dark blue metallic. Nowadays the colors are far more exotic without the tacky look of the 70's metalflake and weird 6 color overlays as shown on my 1953 Belair 396 gasser in '73. Bought it that way from a pals widow. Shown at McCormick Place World of Wheels, Chicago. Bill
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I like diplomat blue. Here are some other ideas. Forest green, ice blue, burgundy, bamboo creme.
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That diplomat blue is code 28,which is called fathom blue on the chevys. A very nice metallic blue. I have a project chevelle that is also code 28 that I will maybe get to someday. I would definitely be keeping that as the color if I restore. I?m wondering what you did with that 73 4-speed car....that was the last of them coming out of Flint when my dad was there.
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The '73 was one of 16 (?) loaded, stage I, 4 speed and I was the 3rd owner in 1975. It was such a lemon that it met a justifiable end! It really had multiple issues and just would not cooperate. Bill
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Had a chance to get some Buick time in today. The weather aint cooperating to get the cover shrunk on the boat so I spent the day in garage "B". Got the rear bumper pulled off. Everything showing collateral rust damage is on the passenger sider side, bumper chrome, and rusty ass bolts that I am owing to the exhaust gases. The trunk floor is a gonner as well from the rear window leaking and soaking the floor mat for 39 years.
Also spent some time knocking tin. I think the repair is gonna be on whats there instead of disecting the corner and welding in a new section. A body guy looked at this a few months ago and said it'll all come out with an air chisel; nice and dull of course! The pic shows about 15 minutes worth of air chisel and then some hand planishing work. I hate body work; I am my own worst judge.
Customized a stock air cleaner last week as an experiment. Still looking for a GS 455 snorkel unit to adapt to this one. If any one has one thats been run over in a dark garage, I am a ready buyer LOL.
Next time out will be a trial fit on the hood to see where that goes. I think the GS cleaner and a cowl induction hood will look bad ass on the BAD LASS!
Also looking for a rubber bumper that goes on the trunk pinch weld; mines MIA on the passenger side. Bill
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Quarter looks a lot better than you had started with. Warm it up with some heat and dolly a little bit more before you grind it (not quite as much as you warmed up that 73)....you will be sanding in no time.
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Thanks... that '73 got its' just deserts! I was all set to take the cut of grinder to it and hack it off, but welding on a plane creates a whole new set of issues with warpage etc. Ive been watching a youtube channel called Trevs' Blog about high end repairs with little or no bondo. Its all about time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdJmI3edlRw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdJmI3edlRw)
My biggest concern was the crest on the top and that already turned out surprisingly well.... Bill
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So got the boat stuff just about all done, and the weather has been relentless. Howling winds and single digit temps. Changed gears and started on the BADLASS in earnest. Spent yesterday actually cleaning and painting the hood hinges. Just went with satin black to KISS. Mocking up the assembly (MU) I found an extra threaded hole on each fender by the hinge bolts. One book shows two bolts and another shows three; whats #4 for?
Siphoned about 8 gallons of gas outa the tank and removed that. Came out just like it was supposed to. Gas gage with a 1965 90 ohm sender works well, albeit "sloshy" on the dash end. May still replace with a correct unit for the 30 ohm 64 gage. Depends on finances LOL.
Started the demolition job in the trunk. Air chisel worked swell. Thats the tool of choice for cutting the junk out. ALL of the subframes were at least 95% intact. Every spot weld was an SOG to cut with the chisel. About 2 hours of fitness cutting/trimming will have the frames ready for cleaning and priming; probably tomorrow after blood lab at 0700hrs.
So now, I bought the whole BOP trunk floor kit, including replacement frames. If anyone plans on this job, the extras will be available for a screaming deal. Still wrapped like I received them. Thatll make it way easy for some one to buy just the floor tins and do the job.
Heres some stuff from today. ESPECIALLY the last one!
Also seriously considering the Power Tour this year from say, Champaign, Il to Madison, Wi. Anyone else up for it? Bill
https://youtu.be/h3jt3G6XLZs (https://youtu.be/h3jt3G6XLZs)
https://youtu.be/c1YnnQswGgI (https://youtu.be/c1YnnQswGgI)
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Yo Bill.
I have a rear bumper I bought years ago that was re-chromed. It has really tiny "bubbles", very tiny. It would be either a very good "driver", or very good "core" if re-chromed properly. My car wore it while I had my original re-done.
Let me know if you are interested. If you want to go with a re-chrome, might make sense to have it shipped from me to the plating company.
I am in no hurry, if it is something you are interested in, let me know. :)
Michael
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Indeed Mike! At least these bumpers are fairly light in weight. Mine is pretty pitted from the exhaust, and even as a core would require a bit of filling to bring it back to par. Altho a while down the line after painting etc, Id be interested. Shoot me yer best on it and we'll go from there. Still have a bunch of stuff as take offs if anything catches your eye, let me know. Bill
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$250 and shipping.
It is a good looking bumper from about 5-10 feet. You get close and can see the "tiny bubbles/pimples". I talked with guys that do chrome work and they said it is likely from setting in the tank without agitation and that resulted in the "bubbles".
If you want, I can try and get pics.
I want to be crystal clear on condition and never have anything questionable or misrepresented.
That said, let me know your thoughts and questions and I'll do my best to answer them.
Since it is straight and dent free, it would be perfect for re-chrome, but is nice enough as a driver as is.
I bought it years ago, but the blems were not disclosed. It was advertised as "show re-chrome", but I wanted "true show" quality, and once I got it, I put it on and sent my original off and had it redone.
Full disclosure. :)
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Appreciate the honesty pal! Youre in Florida arent you? I'd love a fresh bumper, but itll have to wait a while. pension matters at years end ya know LOL??? Whatcha think shipping would be? 100.00? Shoot me a few pics if ya can. This IS a 1964 right?
I shipped a '72 front (BIG!) to a guy UPS and the whole deal was sour (shipping/boxing etc.) Send me your thoughts when ya can! I have a chrome guy 10 miles from here, but he's $$$$$!
http://customplatingspecialist.com/ (http://customplatingspecialist.com/)
Bill at yachtsman36@charter.net
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Holy Yumpin' Yiminy!!! We be chatting in the future! Bill
To strip, metal finish, copper plate and finish with nickel and chrome plating will cost $876. This is show quality with a lifetime warranty. This bumper will take about 16 weeks to process. Thanks,
Terry Meetz
tmeetz@aol.com
Custom Plating Specialist, Inc
W797 County Road K
Brillion, Wi 54110
920-756-3284
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Yes Bill, it is a '64 (IIR they are the same both years on the rear bumpers)
Florida Panhandle. And $100 is probably about right.
I will be going to Bowling Green in May. If we can find someone from your neck of the woods to bring it to you, that would cut shipping.
Another possibility is to ship it direct to the "rechrome" place if you were planning on going that route and then them ship it to you.
Some of the shops do a call ticket and cover the shipping.
It's not in any hurry to go anywhere, so let me know.
I'll get some pics. :)
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Appreciate it Mike! The wife goes to BG a few times a year for family stuff. Her uncle lives about 2 miles from the park. I'll probably just use it as is. Hey its a beater after all haha. Shoot me some pics when ya have some time OK? Email is best! Addy is below.. TIA Bill
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Dear Bill, Michael, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
So got the boat stuff just about all done, and the weather has been relentless. Howling winds and single digit temps.
. . . .
https://youtu.be/h3jt3G6XLZs (https://youtu.be/h3jt3G6XLZs)
Wow! Your video of the boat ramp is - impressive - and that most definitely isn't a good thing! :BangHead:
Changed gears and started on the BADLASS in earnest.
. . . .
I'm glad that you are back indoors working on BADLASS and thanks Micheal for offering a helping hand! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Theres a bunch of great guys over here, just wish there were more input from the bleacher patrons. "Ya cant tell the players if ya aint got a program". Howz about that extra bolt hole by the hinges??? Bill
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Extra hole on your inner fender near hood hinge does not show in the 65 service manual.
Did GM use the 64 fender for other vehicles?
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Unknown! Thats a lot of work to install that at the stamping plant for nothing; both sides yet! As posted earlier, the shop manual shows 2 bolts for replacing hood hinges (this raised part and the rear one) and the assembly manual shows 3 bolts. Theres no doubt the hinges use the 3, with two flat mounts and one raised. Both books show these raised areas, altho a difference between the two books, but no mention of the purpose. Maybe a brace or something? Station wagon hinges? Edouard???
Jimbo... where in Chicago are you? Bill
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Bill
My 64 Buick Special my parents purchased brand new
4 door sedan 4169
Built in Kansas City
300 V8 2 Barrel
Without Air Conditioning
Doesn't use the extra fender hole
The original fender paint doesn't indicate anything has ever screwed in the hole
My 65 Buick Skylark GS
Built in Fremont
401 V8 4 Barrel
With Air Conditioning
Doesn't use the extra fender hole
The low response to your question may eventually indicate non use
Milton
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Never seen that hole used for anything. Either it was used for assembly or alignment purposes for the chassis sheetmetal (everything from the firewall forward) or it was intended for something never used and GM didn?t see it was worth the trouble to change.
Mark
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Dear Bill, Milton, Mark, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Unknown! Thats a lot of work to install that at the stamping plant for nothing; both sides yet! As posted earlier, the shop manual shows 2 bolts for replacing hood hinges (this raised part and the rear one) and the assembly manual shows 3 bolts. Theres no doubt the hinges use the 3, with two flat mounts and one raised. Both books show these raised areas, altho a difference between the two books, but no mention of the purpose. Maybe a brace or something? Station wagon hinges? Edouard???
Well, I can provide photograph evidence of how this region looks like on a Special wagon. Here is the driver's side:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Misc-engine-bay-photos/i-5hQGjN3/0/40736396/XL/Mounting%20points%20on%20inside%20of%20fender%20-%20port-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Misc-engine-bay-photos/i-5hQGjN3/A)
Here is the passenger side:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Misc-engine-bay-photos/i-sGpDgkk/0/f6a88217/XL/Mounting%20points%20on%20inside%20of%20fender%20-%20starboard-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Misc-engine-bay-photos/i-sGpDgkk/A)
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif). . . . .As you can see, the arrangement is completely different than for the sedans or coupes . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/scratch_head.gif)
Unless GM was so forward thinking that they left oddities on their cars just to advance conversations on discussion forums - beats me what these mounting points are for! :icon_scratch:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks everyone! I thought the ol' bozoputer wasn't transmittin'! It just seemed like a bunch of trouble from the drawings to stampings and even the cost of two spun welded nuts installed for "nothing". Not too GMish.
Ed, unless those hinges are mounted with only two bolts (assuming theres a third behind the spring arm) they are identical to the 2 door post anyways. Just weird stuff we run into on these things!
BTW, anything I put up here is always open for discussion! OK... back into the floorless trunk LOL. Im using a spot weld cutter to help clean up the floor frame rails. Turning out pretty well so far. BBB er, Bill
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Bill,
I'm just west of Midway airport. Work at O'Hare. Read you were from the LaGrange area. I drive through it twice a day! I take LaGrange Rd. to go to work.
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I know the area like the back of my eyeballs! I worked for 30+ years at 3501 Pulaski; Hmmm. Lots of pals went to Kennedy and Curry HS. I went to LT(1973) in LG. Youre right over by Nick67GS from across the hall. We've been up here in Two Rivers Wi. since 2010. Kinda miss the old place(s) but certainly not the traffic! Thats a long haul up LaGrange Road! Did you make it over to Dukes for the closing? Bill
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Yes, we did go to Duke's closing. Cars on both sides of the street. Elvis was even there!
These pictures were from the previous Saturday. The last day was even bigger. Their suppose to move to 87th and Harlem.
Went to Curie 73-77
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We used to be known as the 171 club... I was riding with all the guys from Munch Choppers (now Throttle Masters) 3923 Archer. We'd hit every tavern from Western to Harlem on a typical night, and theres a bunch! Several times I shouldnt have made it home to Willowbrook LOL...
That initial trip to the chop shop (LOL) hit me pretty hard. The next day was cleanup and then Pat had her Baptism yesterday. She ordered me to chill out for the remainder. I actually snuck out and finished the trim cut with a cut off wheel. Next trip out will be starting to clean stuff up and get the area in rusty metal primer prior to paint. Notice how solid the floor edge is...
Took the hand torch and warmed up literally 5 lbs of body filler in the corners and seams, and dug out with chisels etc, and found a bit more damage. Now Im down to raw steel. Everything here is really solid. Trunk pan frames are def. for sale! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . .
That initial trip to the chop shop (LOL) hit me pretty hard.
. . .
Took the hand torch and warmed up literally 5 lbs of body filler in the corners and seams, and dug out with chisels etc, and found a bit more damage.
. . .
Now Im down to raw steel. Everything here is really solid.
WOW! This car suffered from a really lousy body repair and kept right on going. I'm glad that you are able to set things right, but it is amazing what these old cars went through and are still with us!
Keep us posted on your progress on BADLASS!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Ya know, its the ongoing trilogy of horror LOL. All that body dough was OEM seam sealer; not a repair. It was about the only thing connected to the rusty floor pan that still had factory paint on it. Weird stuff; you could poke a knife into it, get a scraper under some of it and dig it out, or heat it up till it was smoking, then get a big gasket scraper under it and peel big hunks out. Same stuff thats on the cowl seams and all the other body seams.
Picture 100s of these bodys' going by on the line, with some kid taking a "handfull" of this stuff and "whapping" it into place, then the next kid takes a stiff brush and spreads it out to cover the whole area. It was brushed all around the trunk latch brace, tail light buckets, and even the body drains. Painted and new, it looked fine, but was a water trap.
With the back window corners leaking and saturating the full floor mat and never drying, the rest was inevitable. Bill
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Ho Hum... old age is for the, well, OLD. After Pats' baptism Sunday, I was awakened Monday at 0300 hrs to her wailing in the living room. I got up to her clenching her chest in agony, with an extremely sore back spasm and a sore left arm. All that was missing was a cold sweat. Hmmm. I finally got her to give in after several Dr's. calls and go to the ER. They immediately found an irregularity on an EKG from the previous 2 day old test, and severe muscle spasms. Dilaudid to the rescue; Ahhhhh ! Now Tuesday, she went through a chemical/nuclear stress test and found a small blocked capillary on the backside of her heart causing arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat). Today we go to discuss a stent with Dr. Cardio.
Ive been dealing with some pretty robust arthritis stuff myself in the lower back. Port side at the joints of L3-L4, L4-L5 and L5-S1. Went in yesterday for 3 spinal injection nerve blocks under a real time X ray unit. Fun! Actually feel better today. Six weeks we do it again, then if its stabilized, a third time with a nerve burn. Maybe tomorrow we'll get back on the BADLASS. Cold and rainy today!
Gettin' old sucks. PERIOD. No sympathy needed or wanted, just pay attention when the old bones talk to ya !
Meanwhile, starting to kinda get stuff in order for the interior. Looking at a carpet kit, Blue or Black? One outfit (OPGI??) has one with a formed 4 speed hump in the rug. Worth it? The other biggy is a headliner job. Ive done a bunch 3 decades ago, so looking for hints on todays products. In days of yore, they were hand sewn PER JOB on site. Never used a pre-fab unit. Thoughts? Ideas?? Blue or Black? The OEM unit is the "basket weave" pattern. Bill
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Get the carpet set for the automatic. The 4 speed set is for the huge shifter bump in the Chev's that is 4-6" inches tall.
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^^^
Absolutely correct.
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I third what Walt said....
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Dear Bill, Walt, Michael, Brian, and mid-60s Buick owners who could use a restoration of their own!
Ho Hum... old age is for the, well, OLD. After Pats' baptism Sunday, I was awakened Monday at 0300 hrs to her wailing in the living room. I got up to her clenching her chest in agony
. . . .
Now Tuesday, she went through a chemical/nuclear stress test and found a small blocked capillary on the backside of her heart causing arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat). Today we go to discuss a stent with Dr. Cardio.
Ive been dealing with some pretty robust arthritis stuff myself in the lower back.
. . . .
Gettin' old sucks. PERIOD. No sympathy needed or wanted, just pay attention when the old bones talk to ya !
Maybe sympathy isn't needed, but I'll definitely agree! It is definitely time for a Earth 2.0 where aging is most definitely not part of the scheme!
I can't help you on the carpet, but it seems that everyone else has gotten that matter already resolved! :thumbsup: Thanks gang! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Guys! Floor or column automatic?
Walt, if you recall you directed me to the Chevy replacement 4 speed hump. That in itself isnt too tall as the OM column shift rug fit pretty well. Justa tad tight in the crease of the floor approaching the hump. Thoughts on that? Bill
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Dear Bill, Walt, Michael, Brian, and mid-60s Buick owners who could use a restoration of their own!
Ho Hum... old age is for the, well, OLD. After Pats' baptism Sunday, I was awakened Monday at 0300 hrs to her wailing in the living room. I got up to her clenching her chest in agony
. . . .
Now Tuesday, she went through a chemical/nuclear stress test and found a small blocked capillary on the backside of her heart causing arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat). Today we go to discuss a stent with Dr. Cardio.
Ive been dealing with some pretty robust arthritis stuff myself in the lower back.
. . . .
Gettin' old sucks. PERIOD. No sympathy needed or wanted, just pay attention when the old bones talk to ya !
Maybe sympathy isn't needed, but I'll definitely agree! It is definitely time for a Earth 2.0 where aging is most definitely not part of the scheme!
I can't help you on the carpet, but it seems that everyone else has gotten that matter already resolved! :thumbsup: Thanks gang! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
Thanks for the wisdom Ed; it helps. After sitting in with Pat and the cardio doc today, its probably a stent job at 0600 hrs monday. After all the tests, still cant be sure without an arterial catheter through the groin for a look. That'll be a "close shave". This was all Pre-Op stuff for a knee replacement Dec 9th!
The nerve block seemed to be working as my back is feeling much better. Now for some hip shots and a few in the neck. This stuff all just hit in the last year or so. BOO HOO... Bill
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Thanks Guys! Floor or column automatic?
Walt, if you recall you directed me to the Chevy replacement 4 speed hump. That in itself isnt too tall as the OM column shift rug fit pretty well. Justa tad tight in the crease of the floor approaching the hump. Thoughts on that? Bill
The replacement carpet sets from ACC fit rather loosely, no problem using the auto set over that hump. If it fits too loose, add some padding on the trans tunnel.
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So these guys?
https://www.accmats.com/ (https://www.accmats.com/)
I really dont want to get into an interior color change, so whats the consensus on black versus dark blue? Probably gonna stay with the baby blue headliner. Bill
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Headliner from OPGI in the Tier pattern is what I used. Included extra for sail panels and visors. Also purchased new visors from them.
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So these guys?
https://www.accmats.com/ (https://www.accmats.com/)
I really dont want to get into an interior color change, so whats the consensus on black versus dark blue? Probably gonna stay with the baby blue headliner. Bill
ACC is the manufacturer, but buy it through a different vendor for a much better price.
A quick check shows Rockauto has it for $136 shipped. $160+ on eBay.
It's been 15 years since I bought a set. It did fit loosely around the trans tunnel but settled down. It's not a great fit.
Trim Parts used to offer a nice fitting set, but I don't see them listed anymore?
Perhaps some other members can add input on what they used.....
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How was OPGI on the $$$ end? Ive seen some kits for around 69.00 with a choice of patterns (I think mine is basket weave; whats a Tier pattern?). Thinking a dark blue for this to "tone down" the interior a bit. Thoughts? Probably a dark blue rug too.
So yesterday I only had about 2-3 hours of play time. Managed to clean up the usual mess (tools and 5 lbs of rust off the cardboard haha) and get the gas tank straps cleaned, primed and painted, and drill out the SIX spot welds on the spare tire hold down outa the old floor chunk. Saved that one, cleaned and painted; whew! Today is clean, prime and paint frame rails in the ex-trunk area.
The OEM trunk steel was body color Dark Blue. When did GM start with the speckle paint? The gloss actually looks pretty good in there. Hmmm.
Now a favor for a Buick bro in need; The OEM floor had two body drains. The new floor kit has one in each section. I am in need of a decent drain plug (screws optional!) for a "third for bridge". Anybody have an extra? I'll call these plugs 2" X 3". The holes are actually 2-1/8 X 3-1/8. I think they are all the same, at least from the trunk.
Scored yesterday at a garage sale. Got a 1/2 gallon milk jug full of "mostly new" taps and reamers from #6-42 up to 1"X 8 in both NC and NF for 2 bucks in an antique Milk pitcher for 2.00. Good to have to add to my other set of 1000 haha. Brand new quart cans of rustoleum brushed satin black at 50 cents a can, and a really nice old school lead body filler file for 50 cents as well. (had to pick lead out of the teeth). Several new spray cans of silver and white rustoleo "just to have around". Total was 8.00 for everything. Better than ALDI's!
Either doing more trunk work today and /or finishing pulling rear window trim and the glass to address than darn leaking window channel and "wasted" lower trim clips. The lower window corners are already loose so hopefully the other 99% will follow suit LOLOL. Its right under a heat duct in the shop which will help. My glass guy gave me a special plastic tool for prying it up. Then its on to the package tray and rear seat. Its how I roll! Bill
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OPGI prices are higher than some other places. I signed up on line/email and received their catalog in the mail.
They have specials all the time, I get emails from them all the time. The headliner kit was 82 bucks on one of the discount specials. The service and quality is top notch. Purchased from them 4 times so far.
Got my ACC carpet from RockAuto, automatic version. Yes your headliner is basket weave.
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Thanks Jimbo! Im after a catalogue right now! Bill in TR
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Sure glad I stocked up on cut-off wheels before I retired! Used to go to the store room for a dozen and they only dispensed packs of 100. The rest had to get "tossed". Waste not, want not. Still have another 1000 to go.
Got the inner rotten floor corners cut out and "surveyed" the lower passenger corner; this one'll be interesting. This will be done with about 90% steel. Pay attention! Damn spot welds all over the place!
So on to the hood issue. I am still toying with a cowl induction hood (fiber glass on the steel) for carb clearance. I like the look, but if its not required, Im gonna do a "Head scratching judge trick". Tomorrow Im taking a 2 hour spin to pick up a 1966 SS 396 chevelle hood for 50.00. If I change mid stream, the louvers sell for 100.00 - 150.00 each on ebay. Cant lose.
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/7021821731.html (https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/7021821731.html)
If not, this is what I was after:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-COWL-INDUCTION-BOND-ON-FIBERGLASS-HOOD-SCOOP-MADE-IN-THE-USA/362789950731 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-COWL-INDUCTION-BOND-ON-FIBERGLASS-HOOD-SCOOP-MADE-IN-THE-USA/362789950731)
Things are progressing OK. Moday, Pat is having an angioplasty job, so she'll be on R&R for 2 days, and then she's driving (!) to Champaign, Il. for Bird Day. I'll stay home and watch the dogs. Bill
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Pulled the old anvil out and cleaned and painted it. Thats a piece of 40 lb rail. (40 lbs/foot). Garage sale find for 2.00 and its portable. Also the new trunk floor frames I wont be needing. Cleaned and painted stuff is accumulating! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Bill
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Hi Bill, and fellow DIYers. Had some time this afternoon so I've been reading your posts on the trunk repair. You got the trunk pretty well cleaned out, and the rails look OK. Are you going to use the 3 piece replacement trunk sheet metal set ? If so weld in the sides first then the center section. For two reasons. 1) So you can stand in the center to weld and not have to bend over too far to weld "easier on your back". 2) With both sides in the center section can be trimmed for an exact fit !! The trunk area on my 65 GS project was totally rotted, so rotted that the wheel wells were rotted about 5 inches from the bottom. And I had to fabricate all the missing areas. All the rails had to be replaced too. So I know what you are going thru. Keep those photos coming :thumbsup:
Tony
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Hey Tony... Hope alls well!
Yeah, I have the 3 pce. pan set with the 4 new braces. I wanted to err on the side of caution and bought the set. Once apart, I was surprised how solid the frames and upsweeps on the OEM floor were, so if any one needs them I'll make a great deal (plus shipping!) on the 4 pcs.
I still need to trim the center section to get it flat, but it appears that the butt joint(s) will lay in the center of the frames. Heres the plan so far: Get all three pans in to lay flat, and hopefully the strengthening channels will line up, accurately mark them and remove to drill 1/4" holes for a MIG spot back onto the rails. Reinstall the marked pans and tack them (ever so lightly!) to the front, then rear upsweeps. A few more tacks on the side drops and then maybe 2-3 tacks on the butt joints. Now I can either raise the rails to meet the pans from underneath with the floor jack, or kneel inside to push down for a "spot weld" tack on the rails. It appears for now that the rails will need to come "up" from me sitting on them addressing the weld cleanup. I want to have it located 100% before any finish welding.
Grind to fit and paint to match LOL. It always sounds simple on paper dont it??
Hood purchase is on hold to unforeseen business on sellers end, so today I can start fabbing patch pcs. in the rear corners. This delay will also give me the chance to trial fit my hood to air cleaner clearance to see if its even the right direction. The '66 SS 396 hood is a screaming deal that I could flip also tho...
I did find out that the new tin, made by the chinaman of course (!!) is a metric, not standard sheet metal gage and different by about .004 - .005". Typical eh?
Hopefully some more pics to follow. Bill
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Bill, A much thinner and younger me used a similar fiberglass cowl induction scoop on my 67. It looked nice once painted. You can see how the hood was clearanced underneath in the second picture. Eventually, a triangular aluminum pan was riveted to the air cleaner base. Foam added to the pan sealed the carb to the outside air from the scoop. It ran a 10th quicker this way with no other changes. That was a big deal to me as a 10th is hard to come by in the 11s. I added another picture of the car just because I like it!
Steve
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Thanks Steve! I like that look, especially sans the vinyl top. Thats a nice hole ya cut too; Ive seen some REALLY BAD hack jobs. Gonna keep these pics for reference if thats OK. You look like yer 25; and skinny! Did years catch up? They did for me!
Ive got a pretty stock (big car?) air cleaner thats not nearly as tall as yours. I am looking for some GS 455 inlets to match up under that cowl hood. Thanks for reaching out! Im "garnering" ideas as I move along! I love making stuff (fit!!) LOL. Bill in TR
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Carefree and 33 in 94. Fat ran away fast from that guy. Who knew life would saddle him up and he would be a dad in two years. I would not change a thing other then my current metabolism if i could!
That TA single plane intake is tall, but has a power advantage. Even with a drop base, there is little clearance under the hood. The engine just cant breathe that way. Unwilling to give up the performance, I went up and through. I attached a picture of how it started smaller with a lesser flowing air cleaner. The progression to a larger air cleaner and sealing to the outside air was, as always, in pursuit of better ETs and performance.
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Dont let the fat getcha down LOL. Ive lost over 1000 lbs in my "fat busters'" career and put back 1100! Bill with a silver painted cast iron manifold!
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Dear Bill, Tony, Good Dr., and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks for all the info on hood scoops and thanks Steve for the photos of your car equipped with one. That's not my preferred route, but my trusty wagon is also suffering from hood clearance issues. I'm hoping to find an electronic fuel injection system that isn't so tall, but if that doesn't' pan out, I might have to look into a scheme to get more "headroom" in the engine bay.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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So this is a C&P from ClassicOlds.com. Shoot me some thoughts on this. I absolutely can not find any of these or a reliable and affordable source for new. Bill
So weird things happen when ya listen to the wife, RIGHT? She reminds me just now that we have a friend that has a decent quality but desktop sized 3D printer. Hmmm. After doing a scan of even a NOS pedal pad, would these guys be made out of some syntho-rubber like neoprene, and anyone ever see 3D printer "wire" in that material?
For those million dollar resto's, would there be any kind of a market for me to involve myself in a small cottage industry producing these (dont forget the parking brakes and "fast" pedals too) in a basic color of choice to match the interiors, like blue, red, green, even white? Just curious guys. Shoot me yer thoughts! Bill in TR
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BE ADVISED FOLKS! A few weeks ago on V8 there was an infiltration of "hot babes" looking for "car guys" etc. I got PM'd this morning on classicOlds.com, and reported it IMMEDIATELY!
DO NOT OPEN ANY ATTACHMENTS, either on the forum or PMs unless yer torque wrench is like, ah, really lonely.
Report them so they can be disposed of properly! (Sorry Loren!) The boat forums too. Happy Holidays eh? Bill
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Will be sifting out the fake ones from the real ones.
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All
Not my car
Found craigslist Minnesota
1965 post Skylark street machine that has been dressed up
Medium blue paint with hood scoop
Located in Sauk Rapids MN
Helps visualize ideas
Milton
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Thanks Milt! Is this the one? Some hokey stuff yet lotsa ideas. Im liking that 9" Dorf gear more and more! The hood shows pretty well too! Bill
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/cto/d/saint-cloud-1965-buick-skylark/7018985726.html
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Yes Bill that's the one.
I don't have the real artistic eye that others are gifted with but I know what I like when I see it.
It helps me visualize with pictures.
Milton
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Nice plate on there too.
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When I first saw the small pic of that hood scoop, it looked like a turbo bulge from a turbo Regal/GN. That could be a more unique and Buick-esque option for you.
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I agree Walt. My brother who sold me the 1970 455/4 speed car he ordered, that he sold me in '72, bought a new turbo coupe in '76 I think? It has the blister bubble for the turbo. If the hood clearance issue persists later this week, Ill hafta go with the cowl hood. THEN, Ill fabricate a GX 455 air cleaner to mate up to the hood... I love making the judges scratch their, ah, heads!
Happy Bird Day everyone! Bill in TR
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Im a slave to the grind(er)! Pat took off this morning with the wrecking crew for Champaign, Il. for bird day. That gives me 5 days to get some stuff done.
Finished with some cleaning and got a nice juicy coat of Galvanized Primer soaked into all the nooks and crannys', then slapped a nice heavy coat of Rustoleo flat back on all the stuff that wont show. I spared the paint where the spot welds will go for a good "stickem'".
I brush the stuff on/in, then recoat with a light cover of semi gloss. The flat was at a garage sale for 50 cents for a brand new quart, and the semi gloss spray was on sale PLUS 11% rebate at retards. Im not cheap; Im frugal.
Took the new center section and started hackin' away with the cutoff grinder. It took me only 4 trim cuts to get it to lays this close. Clamped in, its SPOT ON. Im right where I wanna be with this part. One or both side panels will be tomorrow. Ill probably clamp the center back and shoot a few tech screws to hold the position, then weld them closed as we near that stage. The floor around the wheel wells was really good, so I trimmed that for a shelf to lay the panel(s) on. Ill have to trim the panels accordinly and mark the flanges to drill holes for more spot welds.
This car had the whole trunk painted body color (a 1964 thing?). I may go that route or a speckle job. Exspurts? (the speckles will help camouflage the repair too!) Bill
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Looks good Bill,that car was in very good condition to be able to reuse the original supports. When I did mine I just drilled 1/8 inch holes spaced as the original spot welds in the new panels. I cranked up the heat and speed a little on the mig and burned the small holes a little bigger around to melt the weld into the supports. When I was welding panel to panel I just used a 1/4 inch drill with lighter heat to burn them together. After the grinder hits the welds you are 82 percent done with that rusty stuff. The panels fit and look like new. After I finished it I can honestly say that the one piece floor is WAY too much work and likely not necessary on a decent car. You will be very happy with the floor the way you did it and it was better to not mess with the supports or tank straps.
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..... After I finished it I can honestly say that the one piece floor is WAY too much work and likely not necessary on a decent car.....
I went that route on my 66 vert. It would NOT have been considered a decent car, as it also needed and got a full floor. Trunk wasn't horrible, but the supports were shot and decided to replace the whole she-bang. Biggest downside to the one piece trunk is getting it in place past the lower quarters and trunk drop offs. Those are getting replaced anyway so in this case it was fairly easy to fit it. And the one piece requires much less welding and makes for a very nice finished install.
Here's the trial fit, the sandblasted, primed trunk area with inner fender repairs tig-welded in, and the 1-piece installed. It needed some trimming to mate up with the tail panel but was otherwise a perfect fit for my 66.
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Excellent guys! Schlep... were the 1/8" holes enough? I was thinking 3/16 or 1/4. Everything on the frames is shiny clean. Yesterday (and today) I had the center pan in and scribed the bottom side against the rails on all 4 sides. Thats gonna come back out and get drilled with "witness" marks at all 4 corners so it goes back in exactly from whence it came LOL. Probably will hold it down with 4 small tech screws instead of clamps for more room on the L & R pcs.
Walt... everyone said youll need to have the body off for a one piece unit. I see how you got around that, plus the fenderwell lip extensions. WOWZER! I guess Ill count my blessings (today especially!) that all that stuff on mine was solid. Just a leaky window that got the floor mat wet, and put away like that in 1980. Rust never sleeps, so they say. Thanks for the pics!
Still looking for a nice/cheap used drain plug. New ones are about 5.00 so its not a biggy, but Ive had problems seating the chinaplugs before and the OEM plugs were a breeze! Bill
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Bill,
65 was first year for splatter paint in the Buick trunks. 64 trunks were all painted body color inside.
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Thanks man! Whats an extra quart of paint between friends??? Happy Bird Day!!! Bill
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Nice pics of the one piece Walt. I have never used one but they look like a quality piece. I have used the 3 piece a few times and thought it fit together very well but sometimes just isn't enough metal to cure the problem(especially on convertibles that leaked). Bill,the reason I used small holes on the support welds is because I welded them very hot.When I did that it tends to burn the panel out a bit so you end up with about a 7/16 puddle weld that requires very little grinding. Your initial burn is dead center in the small hole and hold it there for a couple seconds(or whatever you can see is burning into the support)and then just lightly trigger in the bigger hole to puddle it even. You get a very strong weld that isn't going anywhere. You can't get away with that process on the panel to panel welds because the heat will burn holes through both panels. At any rate air is your worst enemy.Try to get the panels and supports as tight to one another as possible even if you have to screw it tight and weld in the holes,Dan
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GOTCHA! As a yoot (LOL) I worked for 30 years in a power plant (coal) and we did all our boiler repairs with 7018 and "finally" went to a TIG root pass. By then the eyeballs were gone so I dropped my certs. Originally in the late 70's (our fleet was about 80% nuclear) all our processes company wide had to conform to NRC criteria.
Even if theres a little gap, Ill pull it together with either a clamp, if I can squeeze it or a tech screw, weld it, and remove and fill the screw. Have grinder will travel! Its gonna be a Jack in the Box job, but hey, thats what makes it fun... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Bill
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So the center panel was screwed down and the right side panel trimmed to fit. There was a discrepancy between the chinaman and me, and he won. I had to trim the fenderwell lip right on the edge, and it was about 1" too much. Ill hafta make a filler for that side. If the Left side will flatten out without too much distortion, it'll fit much better. Thats for tomorrow LOL.
The shops a total dusty mess and I clean up every day sans the black boogers haha. After the 3 panels are in, Ill scribe them all for frames and remove to drill for spot welds. Theyll go back in on the screws for position, then weld 'em up. Im right where I wanna be.... Bill
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So the proof of the pudding is in the eaating!... Bill
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Everyone must still be sleeping off dinner! I got the 3 panels fitted and a few tech screws in to hold position and just finished up some filler strips for around the fender wells due to dull chinaman dies. In truth, these are worn out GM dies from 50 years ago. Still couldnt have made better unless its in aluminum, then screw it all down.
Im heading in UNDER the car to mark all the braces and pull them back out for drilling accurate MIG spot welding holes. Now take a deep breath... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Everyone must still be sleeping off dinner!
Well, not exactly on this coast. We went from a critical wildfire danger on Monday to a serious thread of flooding today! In between cooking the Thanksgiving and other meals, I've been running around like crazy to cope with the radically changing weather.
I got the 3 panels fitted and a few tech screws in to hold position and just finished up some filler strips for around the fender wells due to dull chinaman dies. In truth, these are worn out GM dies from 50 years ago. Still couldnt have made better unless its in aluminum, then screw it all down.
Im heading in UNDER the car to mark all the braces and pull them back out for drilling accurate MIG spot welding holes. Now take a deep breath... Bill
Yes it was quite a struggle! I"m glad that you managed to cope with the curve balls thrown at you and this repair is just about in "da' bag!"
Do keep us updated!! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Feast or famine right Ed? Pat was outa town with the wrecking crew AND the demolition squad for the weekend. Gave me a chance to get busy. Right!
Fitted some wheel well spacers then marked the underside of the floor. Removed that and can now accurately drill my spot weld holes. Easy-Peazy, chinaeasy!
The chinaman messed up for a change. The stupid UPC stickers came off in one piece! A little solvent soluble glue to clean up a little residue. Usually thos things make a friggin' mess and take time and effort to remove, plus any underlying damage to the base parts. I hate them things!
Laid out where I am gonna cut the valance for a bench repair. To do it in place will look lousy and be a back breaker to boot. While I was waiting for the marker to dry (!) I did a little planishing on that rear quarter panel. Still hafta cut the rot out to good metal for welding; cumsi,cumsa. Bill
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A few shots from the forbidden zone LOL. I also need a trunk seal gasket. Wheres the best (read cheapest) place to get one. Had good and bad luck with all the brands. The OEM gasket has a fiber (cotton or nylon?) cord as a spine. Its still gonna blow removing it with all the glue in the channel etc.
The repairs will be all steel with a smidge of filler as needed.. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who prefer their cars to be as water-tight as possible.
A few shots from the forbidden zone LOL. I also need a trunk seal gasket. Wheres the best (read cheapest) place to get one. Had good and bad luck with all the brands.
. . . . .
I've only had the door and tailgate seals replaced on Biquette. I really have to do something about the windows this coming year. I can't find any purchase made for the door seals so supposed the body shop came up with those when Biquette was being repainted in 2011. I did buy the tailgate seal from OPGI. No complaints after 8 years. However, I assume OPGI gets their rubber from another manufacturer, so that should save you some "green" to buy it direct.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Ed... I still need to pull at the very least, the back window. Its already loose enough that with the special glass guy plastic pry tool, I can see the corners lifting. He (the GG-Glass Guy) said to not be surprised if the glass just pops out. I hope thats so; intact! I have a set of almost NOS window sweeps from my pals '65 chevelle. They are close and may need 1/4" trimmed off the front end.
Tomorrow, Pat has her pre knee replacement check up, followed by a C-scope. She's studying for the test right now ;-((. This came up due to a positive gene test for Lynch Syndrome. I'd suggest everyone here looks that up. Its a mutated gene that attaches itself to the cancer genomes. She a BC survivor and the last C scope proved pre-cancerous polyps. Now its a scope every year. Please be pro-active guys! Cancer sucks and this is a biggy in research. This came up during a routine lab test for the knee job and now needs to be addressed before the job on December 9th.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNRiRTSEBykuNdZ1D2nGjIV9IICqUA%3A1575248748490&source=hp&ei=bGPkXZetG43-tAWYoJbgAw&q=lynch+syndrome&oq=Lynch&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.35i39j0l3j0i131l2j0l4.5593.7072..9924...2.0..0.117.560.0j5......0....1..gws-wiz.....10..35i362i39.2GEVLoh3zYE (https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNRiRTSEBykuNdZ1D2nGjIV9IICqUA%3A1575248748490&source=hp&ei=bGPkXZetG43-tAWYoJbgAw&q=lynch+syndrome&oq=Lynch&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.35i39j0l3j0i131l2j0l4.5593.7072..9924...2.0..0.117.560.0j5......0....1..gws-wiz.....10..35i362i39.2GEVLoh3zYE)
So today, I finished the shop work for a few days. I managed to drill 168 3/16" spot weld holes in the floor panels and deburr both sides. Thats a lot of chips! Cleaned the shop and shut her down. That was after clearing 2 inches of slush off the driveway this morning. It was about 50 lbs per 1/2 shovel so I tried the 8 hp snow blower to a pluggage event. I ended up using the blower as a plow and clearing our 12 x 100 foot drives thusly. Its been flurrying all day and now its 20F and windy. Hopefully the blower will work tomorrow morning before we go. Bill
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Hi Bill,Eduardo and mid 60's A body fans. I purchase most of my rubber products from Steele Rubber Products in Denver NC. www.steelerubber.com (http://www.steelerubber.com) or 1800425-6088 . They are a manufacturer of all types of automotive rubber products.
If you are looking for moulding clips, screws, bolts, fasteners, springs, rivits , cotter pins, weatherstripping, harness straps and whatever else you may need .
Restoration Specialties & Supply Company in Windber PA . www.restorationspecialties.com (http://www.restorationspecialties.com) is the place to get it. I've been buying from them since 1983.
Tony :hello:
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Thanks Tony.. After looking at the leftover pile from my 1972 XGS, it appears that the unused trunk seal (Sofseal?) is the same for 1964 to 1972, according to the PDF from Restoration Specialties & Supply Company. I still need to look in depth for the rear window clips (screw on type) that secure the window trim. The whole bottom row was wasted due to crud entrapment which also lead to the window leaking. Typical stuff there. Window has to come out for rebedding and to get at those clips.
How about the 2 x 3 trunk floor plugs? I need one and know that I saw them for like 4.00 each. The OEM floor had TWO and the new floor has THREE. I only need one. Plus I need FOUR One inch (?) trunk side drop off snap on (plastic?) drain plugs. The only way to get the old ones out were to take a wood chisel and shear them with a hammer.
Personally, it wouldve been better if GM had worked on the body cavity drains a bit more. Water, debris, and lack of ventilation killed a lot of these cars. Even in 1975, I could hear an inch of water sloshing around inside my 1970-1972 GS's doors. Thanks, Bill
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Bill, That trunk filler panel is the same as the one made for the Pontiac 64-65 GTO if you wanted to change it. It looks like it could go either way? Goodmark and Sherman makes one for the 64-65 BOP A-body now. Ames had about the only one available for a 64-65 GTO that fit my 65 GS when I did this. I can't seem to cross the numbers for the 64-65 Chevelle with the BOP model, but it is $100 vs $200. They look the same, but..........
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Hey Dr. Frank... Thanks for the pics! Doesnt look too involved to change that one. If mine were any worse, I'd probably have that on the agenda. The pic shown is before a JB weld repair with the glass in, which after the glass is out, I may do with steel. Either a repair, or change the whole valance.
On resembling the chevy part, Ive found a bunch of stuff that "looks" the same, but... Sometimes I wonder about what GM was thinking when they stamped the generic parts like this. Hmmmm?
Did you take the glass out in one piece or 3,000,000? I hate glass work! Bill
Goodmark chevelle is 79.00 and Buick Skylark is 259.00 No mention about 2 door HT or 2 door post; just listed as "coupe". Couldnt find a Sherman unit and AMD sells repair corners at 59.00/side. Any thoughts on this???
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Bill, here is the Sherman: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333418478635. (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333418478635.) The complete panel replacement disturbs a lot of different areas. There are an unimaginable amount of spot welds. Getting it just right or good enough for all takes some fiddle time. A partial repair should be easier. The filler from Ames fit very well and it wasn't more then $100 back then. I'd be tempted order the Chevelle part and BOP to compare them. Then send back the the expensive one if they are the same? I used the piano wire method around the window to cut it out in one piece.
Steve
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AHHGGGGGG... more spot welds!!! Me thinkst Ill repair whats there. Im always afraid of losing alignment taking panels out. That turns into a ton a jacking and clamping to get it back where it belongs. Then the dang glass doesnt fit! The repair runs about 6 inches in either corner. However, thanks for the link!
Did you run a wire on a battery charger to make it hot, or do it cold? Guitar string? Ive been considering buying a cutter for this job; I guess Ill try it old school first eh?
Theres the wire, hot wire, special futility knife blade, and these two novelties. I have a really sweet variable speed Dremel oscillating flush trim cutter that this blade will work on. Thoughts or ideas? Bill
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I'd say the larger the surface area of the cutter the more likely it will get stuck and cause issues. I think that stuff gets stickier as it is heated. We took out the front and back glass cold with my son on the inside and me on the outside. I had him follow me around the window well with the a few strands of the wire wrapped around his glove. I tried to keep the wire low in the well and not touching the glass as I pulled it around the window. I don't remember any particular difficulty other then cleaning it off the glass once out. It may have been a guitar string because there are some stringed instruments here and some replacement strings?
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Hi Bill , I have a windshield removal tool that you can use. I can drop it in a box and mail it out to you, and when you are done just send it back. :idea1:
Tony.
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.....The complete panel replacement disturbs a lot of different areas. There are an unimaginable amount of spot welds.....
Oh, yeah, that's an understatement!
Here's another company that make channel repair pieces:
http://www.beldenspeed.com/rust-patch-panels (http://www.beldenspeed.com/rust-patch-panels)
@ $40 each +shipping, it may be a sufficient choice if you just need one piece.
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Wow Tony! Thats an incredible offer! Can you post a pic of the tool? If its reasonable $$$ I wouldn't mind buying one myself, but since this is a one time use (!) it may just be as easy to borrow yours. You can rest assured it will be returned within a day or two. The window/channel job is the next on the list after the trunk floor. Barring any unforeseen problems, that part should just about get wound up in the next few days. Its all prepped and ready to lay down today. Ill PM you with shipping info and pay the USPS both ways!
Walt... Belden is one place I didnt look, but YIKES! What a site full of info and how to. I just spent an hour going through it (at a glance!) and after the glass is out, Ill have a better understanding of exactly what I'll need. Looking at the top pic I posted, it appears the channel is solid from the sail panel joint up. That'll get me started into the headliner job for sure. Heck, Ive never had the back seat out yet. The front was out for a rug wash (its a gonner!) so thats gonna take me into THAT job as well. After the trunk job (the major work!) the rest of this is pretty much straight forward. "Almost fun stuff" LOL...
Thanks again for the input guys! Looking forward to getting some paint on this guy and ripping some gears! Bill
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I've used the first one you posted years ago with no damage. My brother had one when he worked in a glass shop.
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Guy here does it himself with fishing line here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7IPHsSO6xA).
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The fishing line (100# test!) seems OK, with fresh urethane sealant. Im wondering just how hard 55 year old stuff will be? Was that even urethane back then? I still have the upper trim across the top to pull off, but today is gonna be trunk welding; I hope! Bill
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...Was that even urethane back then? ....
It's originally Butyl tape. Sold by 3M as 'Windo-weld Ribbon Sealer'.
I just use a sharpened putty knife. Likely not the best method, but I had a bad experience using the correct cutter tool with handle.... cracked a nice windshield with that one!
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That Blows! At least this is a tempered rear window. About 150.00 for a new one, but this has the delivery dealer sticker on the glass. We'll see how this plays out. For now I have 2 floor panels tacked in and its looking pretty good. Bill
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., Tony, Walt, Jimbo, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
WOW!! What a great collection of advice and generosity! You guys are great! :hello2:
AHHGGGGGG... more spot welds!!! Me thinkst Ill repair whats there.
. . . .
I have a really sweet variable speed Dremel oscillating flush trim cutter that this blade will work on.
Probably a mute point, but I used a Dremel tool to cut the holes for the outer A/C vents on my trusty wagon. Usually car restoration requires more brute force and less precision than a Dremel tool provides. Still, there can be situations where a delicate and precise touch gets the job done.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hey Ed... I use a rotary 1/8 mandrel Dremel when critical stuff needs precision. The Dremel above is an variable speed oscillating blade; great for plunge cutting in wood and plastic. Cutting out those vent holes like you did, it wouldnt handle it. I use 1/4" mandrel air tools and a 1/16" thick cutoff wheel would go through that like butter. Thats what I used for trimming the floor pans. Im in the shop, so pics are later when Im back on the mainframe.
I searched for an hour looking for my 220V extension cord for the welder. Wouldnt ya know, it was right where it was supposed to be; right where I forgot to look. Anyway, I made about 200 spot welds. Some stuff had the chinaman primer on it and there were a few blow outs due to too much gapposis, and of course, less than shiny substrate. Welding likes to be cleany deany.
I'd still give the job a 97 so far; good rhythm and easy to dance to! (Remember American Bandstand??). Tomorrow is the fenderwell fillers, and grind the spot welds flat. Those judges can be a PITA LOL... Then some body filler putty and paint. Then the rear corners. More cutoff wheels. Bill
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Ahhhh... all done and sitting with some 3X coffee. Pats knee job is next Monday and she gave me carte blanche to spend some time in the shop before she becomes my "charge" for a few weeks.
The very first thing I did this morning was to install the gas tank straps. For the better part (and easiest) they go in from the top and get hooked BEFORE the floor goes in. Otherwise its a lotta swearing and forcing to get them back in. The center section goes in first. The edges are overlap butt welds with a so-so fit. One side has the lip and the other side is flat. The overlap is a tad shy of being flush with the flat side... just saying.
Theres 168 spot weld holes and another 40 or so tacks on the seams. Tomorrow, The wheel house fillers go in and then some finesse welding and grind them all flat. After its done, a fat bead of seam filler spread with a paint brush will fool the judges and look 100% OEM. Its not a show car by any means, but it will have a nice new solid trunk and as an added plus, no fumes migrating off the pipes for carbon monoxide to enter the cabin.
After this stage is done, Ill be on to the very rear trunk floor patches and some fender extension fabbing. This is all starting to move right along. Probably get a handle on the window job somewheres along the line as well.
Pardon the globular welds! A lot of this was single freehand welding while pushing panels down or otherwise positioning for a good tack. A nice grind and finish they'll look like a million! Bill
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Hi Bill, The tool that I have is the same as the one in the top photo that you posted the other day. .I read the PM you sent to me so I have your address . Just give me a Yes and it will be on it's way to you by the end of the week.
Tony :thumbsup:
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Looking great! Keep up the work and keep the pictures coming!
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Thanks! Its a labor of love. Just like painting the living room; instant gratification. At 64 y.o. thats how we hafta roll.
So theres probably close to 200 spot welds with the addition of the fender well fillers (FWF's). Yesterday, I probably got 170 ground down and it looks good. That BTW, was standing on tippy toes reaching in as far as I could from the back and side and getting showered with sparks haha. Losing more and more hair everyday !
Today, Im gonna take a pillow and my blanky into the trunk (used to fit 2-3 kids at the drive ins') and get comfy with the grinder(s). Id like to get that done today and spread some seam sealer on (first coat) so it can set up before a second app. No runs, no leaks, no errors. Then get some paint to forestall rust on fresh welds and move on to either rear body work or that rear window. Decisions, decisions!
Actually, I tend to bounce around. Taking a smoke break from grinding, I'll pick up my body work hammers and knock some tin around. Then its back to the grind ! Bill
It doesnt look like much but the grind job is about 4 feet deep (up to the vertical wall for the shelf) and all around the sides and across the back. Each tack takes about 1 to 1-1/2 minutes on average, moving position, hoses, and getting comfy. Thats about 3-4 hours of grinding in sheet metal box. Today is ear plugs!!
Some require more grinding than others. Im glad the judges said its supposed to look a little "barbaric" from the factory. I hope I can improve on that and at least progress to medieval.
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Did a few touch up welds and ground the heck outa them. Ready for some seam filler tomorrow, I hope!
On to the upper trim on the rear window, whats the trick? Follow the upper edge to the clips and then... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers, . . . .
. . . .
Today, Im gonna take a pillow and my blanky into the trunk (used to fit 2-3 kids at the drive ins') and get comfy with the grinder(s).
. . . .
WOW!! I would try to say that "you must be goin' about it da' hard way," . . . . except I cannot imagine anything that is even remotely easier! Definitely give yourself a break between grinding sessions!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The word for the day is EARPLUGS... keeps the noise down (for nappy time) and also keeps the hot sparks out of the eardrums (painful!). Little freaky with a 20,000 rpm grinder inches from the storeboughts. :laughing3:
So that part is done. Tomorrow the corner patches and a coat of the seamfiller.
When asked by Bernie Cooper on the ARTHUR ANDERSON to Earnest McSorley on the EDMUND FITZGERALD by radio, the last response was "We're slipping along like an old shoe; our rails are awash, but we're holding our own". Bill
So heres the trick answer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63nXHjemRZk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63nXHjemRZk)
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GOOD EVENING RACE FANS!!! Well it seems like Im off to the races. Two full days left, then Pat gets the knee job Monday at 0900hrs. What a trooper! She said she wont need any baby sitters post op. Hmmm. Ill still hafta get over and visit at least daily, but she also sai9d she expects me to continue on so I dont break my stride. YIKES!
Got the two rear corner floor patches done. Even put a 45* break in the middle to match the floor contour. Sahweet. I also pulled the upper windshield trim off and didnt bust the glass; YET! Clips were a bit smaller than the ones on my '72. Whats up with the weird color too? These are OEM clips. The lip that hooks the trim is really small and actually kinda hard to mannippleate the tool, a light, a screwdriver,wearing gloves. I won that battle LOL...
The top pic shows what the seam filler looked(s) like. Gonna try to replicate a "messy" job. Bill
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Everyone must be "Half asleep at the wheel" around here. Too much pineapple pizza for Pearl Harbor day perhaps??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMA-kGxjZV0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMA-kGxjZV0)
Ran outa paint yesterday so I went and stocked up. Ive been touching up some smalls with rustoleo Navy Blue, and discovered some Rustoleo Navy Blue Metallic. That may be the color to go with if the makers will toss a gallon my way! Bill
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So the trunk floor is painted with 2 coats of Navy Blue Rustoleum. Turned out as good as what the factory provided. Kinda weird, pics with the flash look like sky blue or such. Compare some of the pics side by side with the OEM dark blue. Looks washed out. The paint itself is actually pretty dark.
I was playing with the new metallic stuff. The dust pan, being relatively clean got a coat of the dark navy, then the left side got a cover in the metallic, and finally a cover in clear. Digital pics look funky, but real time the stuff looks beautiful. I kited Rustoleo a letter (email) seeing if the can provide the color in gallons. I tried this with their Cobalt Blue and its by spray cans only. I did some googling and found a million acrylic enamel suppliers at between 59.00 and 79.00 a gallon with a pint (8:1) hardener. Id still block it and clear it. A few white lace panels (60's custom stuff ya know) and the BADLASS will be ready to flash her bloomers LOL... Bill
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Same pics via flash and it really looks washed out. The last pic has the clear (one coat) on it.. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Everyone must be "Half asleep at the wheel" around here. Too much pineapple pizza for Pearl Harbor day perhaps??
The "holidaze season" is upon us and all the forums will get quieter until all the extra activities are past.
So the trunk floor is painted with 2 coats of Navy Blue Rustoleum. Turned out as good as what the factory provided.
It does look nice! Glad that you are close to buttoning up the trunk project!
Kinda weird, pics with the flash look like sky blue or such. Compare some of the pics side by side with the OEM dark blue. Looks washed out. The paint itself is actually pretty dark.
Digital cameras aren't as good as film on just about any aspect of capturing an image - although they get better with every round of sensor improvements. One would hope that the firmware of a digital camera would compensate for the biases of the flash illumination, but this appears to be harder than you would expect. Basically the problem is that the flash is distorting the color because it isn't a uniform collection of all the colors like sunlight. If you really need an accurate photo, there is so substitute for sunlight.
I hope Pat's procedure goes well tomorrow! :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The "holidaze season" is upon us and all the forums will get quieter until all the extra activities are past.
What? No purists here?? LOL... Yeah.. Buick work is on hold for the next few days, then back at it. Thanks for the best wishes; thats from the both of us here! Bill
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Pats doing PT this morning. As I got there she was riding a bike in place and then did 5 stairs. She had one knee done and mine was bilateral. I didnt want to even talk to anyone for a month!
So, as of 1pm. all the rear window trim is off and all the excess bedding had been trimmed away and blown clean with air. The window is already about 20% loose, so I bought some 65# test fishing line today. Gonna try the cut job with that. Watch this... Bill
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Just like somebody came and did it LOL. 75# test line. Probably 40% of the butyl was gone. Took about an hour since I broke the line on the trim clips a few time. Clips are gawners. Heres a saved one "A" and what was left of half of them "B". Got EVERY stinkin' screw out! Bill
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Success is not having a broken rear window!
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Just like the "Sweet Smell of Success"! After the glass was out, the tuffest part was getting those trim clip screws out! The clips were wasted, so I took the spot weld cutter to the screw heads and could grab them with the small vise grips! TA-DA!!!! Bill
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BTW... the two upper inner hammer-on corners were good, but the two lower corners (eggshells) were cooked. The '72's were tough to find. Anyone have the two lowers for sale? Bill
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Onward and upward! Started to closely survey the rear window lower corners, and I may attempt my own field repair. Tight edge radius's are the problem. So after digging into the corners and clearing some headliner trimmings, the whole headliner came out.
In storage for 40 years with mice turds and nesting stuff at 1/2 lb per year netted 20 lbs of guano. I had already cut out 6x6 inch hole to get the shop sucker in behind it but them little grey guys are crafty! As soon as the edges came down I got a shitty shower!
So now wheres a decent ($$$) place to get a presewn headliner kit with extra sail panel material? A carpet kit shipped at the same time might help on the shipping. As soon as the corners are repaired I can put this stuff back together. Bill
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Hey bill, those lower corner trim for rear window are available from OPGI, I just got a set , looks like a stellar piece! All 4 corners less than $20.00!
Nice work you’re doing, pictures make the story for sure. I’m still trying to find the patience to figure out how to post pics from my iPad lol
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Hey Robin... sorry I cant help with an IPAD. I only do cameras and desk tops LOL...
Any chance you can post the parts (#'s etc) from OPGI. The other place Ive been talking with are helpful, but dont sell just the corners. Mine should be an easy repair! Thanks, Bill
Lotsa tips and how to youtubes here also...
http://www.beldenspeed.com/rust-patch-panels (http://www.beldenspeed.com/rust-patch-panels)
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Bill, parts numbers are, CHV3036 and CHV4173. Thankyou for posting your project! I’ve been reading through it all morning, great entertainment and most educational! Thrilling journey and god speed!
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"Ah, thank you very much ladies and gentlemen..." Elvis
Thanks Pal! I also have a '72 XGS 455 (GSX clone) that was redone (frame off) in 1990, then parked in a dirt floor Morton building until 2013 when I bought it. It wasnt quite as ruff, but the doors and front fenders were starting to go again. Had the front clip off that to clean up and repair, did 2 bucket seats and rear seat skins etc, had the rear end outa the car and the Piece de' resistance? Actually service the AC and swapped to 134 and it works.
Just hafta love them Buicks! Bill
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That’s a fine ride friend!
Yea, I took the fall for buicks 25 years ago, took notice I never see any and passioned for the GSX. Myolder brothers were into olds, chev, and fords so I took the high road lol. Found a GS 1970 and restored a tribute 4speed 455 GSX car, which I will never part with. I do all mechanicals, but could never master body and paint. I will put my mind to get laptop going so I can post pics of the car as well as my frame off 65gran sport project. iPads are great but the process to convert pics is painful for me.
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EXCELLENT! Over the years (Im 64) Ive owned probably 12 GS's and a few big cars too. My first was a 1970 455 4 speed loaded that my brother ordered new. I bought it from him in early 1972... almost 17 LOL. Oh the memories!
On those corners for the trim... Have you tried a fit test yet? I have two lowers "in my cart" and dont wanna pull the plug just yet unless they fit.
After speaking with Belden today, we both concurred that I should just fab up what I need for the corners. With the rust and all, it was a crap shoot where the spot welds were, but two sections on the starboard side are out and cleaned for some fitting tomorrow... Bill
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It seems like this could be a solution for the lower problem.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333424982579 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333424982579)
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Hey Brian... Merry Christmas! That chevelle valance is incorrect for the Buicks and Olds'. Something subtle I'm sure. I have some material left over from the trunk floor job and just gonna fab what I need from that; waste not want not eh? Still looking for a chunk of passenger side very rear end of the quarter panel. More to fab and pretty complicated. Keep an eyeball peeled for me woodya? thanks... Bill in TR formerly from Darien!
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Sometimes perfection is measured in hours. One lousy 6 inch piece took 4 hours. Just brushed some primer on it to keep the rust (oxydation) at bay until the 'glass filler gets finished. This is before, during and after. Very little filler gonna be needed. This was a "practice run". Pretty rusty on welding rust (?), but its coming back to me LOL... Bill
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Progress! Looking great !
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We're trying!
If anyone may be interested,I watch "Trevs' blog" on youtube. Its amazing what the guy can do.. Sometime when youre bored, have a looksee... Bill
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNTUDByoDoSlWxwzVvVIM1VRQQ6NvA%3A1576415784324&source=hp&ei=KDL2XZnlEIyqtQXmipygDQ&q=Trevs+Blog&oq=Trevs+Blog&gs_l=psy-ab.3..35i39j0l5j0i22i10i30j0i22i30l3.3286.9278..9920...3.0..0.99.991.11....2..0....1..gws-wiz.....10..35i362i39j0i67j0i10.godxu9NTtmI&ved=0ahUKEwiZmdy23rfmAhUMVa0KHWYFB9QQ4dUDCAg&uact=5 (https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNTUDByoDoSlWxwzVvVIM1VRQQ6NvA%3A1576415784324&source=hp&ei=KDL2XZnlEIyqtQXmipygDQ&q=Trevs+Blog&oq=Trevs+Blog&gs_l=psy-ab.3..35i39j0l5j0i22i10i30j0i22i30l3.3286.9278..9920...3.0..0.99.991.11....2..0....1..gws-wiz.....10..35i362i39j0i67j0i10.godxu9NTtmI&ved=0ahUKEwiZmdy23rfmAhUMVa0KHWYFB9QQ4dUDCAg&uact=5)
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Dear Bill, Jon, and mid-60s Buick owners with a perfection streak!
Sometimes perfection is measured in hours. One lousy 6 inch piece took 4 hours.
. . . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . What are you complaining about? That's a rate of 1-1/2" per hour! Better still, I computed that in under a second - never mind an hour! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Yeah I know, . . . with friends like this . . . . . . :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Yeah I know, . . . with friends like this . . . . . . :laughing7:
Who needs school teachers??? LOL That comes out to about .025" per second haha... So whats another 6 hours amongst friends? Tomorrow will be a finesse grinding job; this is the rough cut. The corners take burr grinding (my fave) and it'll look good. Its tough to get in there with a pretty weld with all the crud on the underside. BON, this was operating room clean to begin with! The port side will be a breeze. Bill
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Just strolling along. Fingers are tingling from the grinding and couldnt feel the contours anymore. Blue tape shows it pretty well. :drunken_smilie: A few minor tweaks here and there and it'll be ready for a finger swipe of filler. Then onto the rear quarter panel fab job. YUCK! :sad4:
Theres one more piece to make. The templates from the other side fit the port side pretty well... so far. What a chore that mustve been back in the day! The corner shows steel, a brazed joint, and lead in the valance joint for filler. That would put GM in the poor house these days. Bill
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Thanks Bill for keeping us updated!
It is definitely taking a fair amount of "fabbing" effort, but the results are looking good! :icon_thumright:
I'm sure BADLASS appreciates all da' luv!! . . . . :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The luv is good, but the PRO-creating is better LOL... Thanks Ed! Bill
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Had to do some running around this morning, so I didnt even turn the heat on until 1100hrs. An hour to warm the shop (it was 5*F this morning!) and got started around noon. The tweek job on the starboard side involved cutting a weld, and moving the insert about 1/8" That turned into a mess so I'll probably re-do it with new steel tomorrow. All 3" of it. Oh well...
The port side was a breeze; way less rust and tried two new moves. To maintain the radius at the valance is a 90* butt weld, with some iffy base material. I formed a piece of that green 3/16 brake line as a batten. It worked well, however, the green stuff came off with a scotch brite, and after a few tacks, I discovered it was also galvanized. Had to finesse grind that stuff off in place. That and the drive wheels on my ol' Miller MIG are worn and didnt want to push the wire. I kinda "knurled" the main roller with a center punch. Actually FOUR punches as the wheel is hard as a rock and busted the 4 points! Still succeeded but Im gonna pick up new wheels. 20 some years worth so I got my moneys worth. Oh well.
So the port side went pretty well. After the wheel thing and the brake line, it stitched up rather nicely. Some more grinding in the morning and that should finish that aspect. I believe the pin holes in each stitch are the result of leftover zinc from the tubing. This whole job is tedious and needs to be good to fit the glass proppa... Bill
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So I was grinding the radius on the starboard side and saw a hairline crack due to a really thin fillet weld on the corner., Had to slice it open and fit another piece of 3/16" brake line for a filler. Turned out good and went with some glass filler. After sanding, there were a few high spots showing as steel, so that got dressed down below the second glass level. Another shot of glass and it was good to go. Some D/A sanding proved it to be pretty well so I shot some galvanized primer on it. Maybe one more dose of glass and some hand sanding will produce a superior result; lets hope so! This is over a week on two corner repairs. Cant wait to start doing real body work!
Pats coming home tomorrow so Ill need to spend the day with her. She's getting along with a cane and already talking about going shopping. Almost off the narcotic pain meds. You go girl! Bill
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Dear Bill and 65GS.com faithful
Good to hear that both Pat and BADLASS are on the mend! :icon_thumright: Just try to restrain Pat's shopping instinct! :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Ed... and everyone else too. We had to go to walgreens for a scrip tonight and then stopped by for some Mexican. First meal that Pat sat and enjoyed. Hospital food is bad, and rehab place grub is even blander. So now shes tuned up and resting on the couch. Gonna have a chance to get out and clean shop tomorrow.
So now, not to re-hash old news, but I need to look into a headliner kit. I see the kits (probably from the same china gulag!) from 79.00 to 169.00. I have (had) what is called a basketweave pattern. None that Ive seen so far remotely resemble what I had. Whats the consensus on this one? I looked at OPGI and Rot-auto and am kinda disappointed. Opinions appreciated. Tips and techniques too! Heres what was on mine and the current "basketweave" pattern. I dont mind changing, but the visors are good enough to re-use. Thoughts? First one in green is the new stuff. The blue is mine. The last pic is kinda hard to read with the digitosis camera but says NAUGAHYDE 64... Bill
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Dear Bill and caregivers of mid-60s Buicks and more!
Thanks Ed... and everyone else too. We had to go to walgreens for a scrip tonight and then stopped by for some Mexican. First meal that Pat sat and enjoyed. Hospital food is bad, and rehab place grub is even blander. So now shes tuned up and resting on the couch. Gonna have a chance to get out and clean shop tomorrow.
I'm glad that Pat is back at home and able to have a more normal life. Hospitals and rehab centers do want to encourage you to go home, but I don't think they need to stoop to crummy food to provide extra incentive!
So now, not to re-hash old news, but I need to look into a headliner kit. I see the kits (probably from the same china gulag!) from 79.00 to 169.00. I have (had) what is called a basketweave pattern. None that Ive seen so far remotely resemble what I had. Whats the consensus on this one? . . . .
Biquette will need a new headliner one of these days but I've never looked into what was being offered. I second your feelings of disappointment. I took two pictures of Biquette's sun visor. Here is one with the camera flash going off:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-GPn44QW/0/487c4897/L/Biquette%27s%20sun%20visor%20%28with%20flash%29-L.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-GPn44QW/A)
As always, click on the image to get a high-resolution version. Here is the one illuminated by an LED work light only:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-wVxWp9X/0/0e4eeb80/L/Biquette%27s%20sun%20visor%20%28work%20light%20only%29-L.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Photos-of-Biquette/Misc-interior-photos/i-wVxWp9X/A)
Indeed the original pattern is very fine and subtle. What has everybody else been doing for headliners?
Bill, are you planning to put some insulation between the roof and the headliner? BADLASS doesn't have nearly as much roof surface area as Biquette, but I would expect even sitting in a parking lot under full sunlight for 15-20 minutes would be enough to make the car uncomfortably warm. Since BADLASS won't have air conditioning, I would expect even some economy insulation would make taking the car out for errands more enjoyable.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Its a sure thing that the food incentive wasnt subtle LOL. Every day Pats getting stronger and back to her being her obergruppenf?hrer self haha. Hell, she lets me play and I dont stray, so its all good!
To getcha up to speed since youve been sunning on the south coast on the Med, :hello2: I got the whole back window frame sanded, cleaned, 2 coats of primer (one zinc and one reg'lar spray primer) a nice heavy coat of Navy Blue as a base, and another nice heavy coat of Navy Blue metallic as a cover. I think its the route I wanna go. I wanted to get the window frame ruffed in for two reasons. To play with a paint color, and get it colored (covered) for a headliner install. You know when I start rolling, boulders jump outa my way haha. Then, the glass can go back in.
I cant believe that GM changed little things as subtle as the headliner pattern between years. Ive been looking til' Im blue in the face at patterns for the last couple of days. The pattern on my '64 is ARIEL and yours is a BASKETWEAVE. Both of the honest patterns are out of print. To me its apples and oranges, but now Ill hafta get the 2 visors resewn as well. Stay away from the later perforated type. Thats no different than a zip edge on a social security envelope. and ad to that sewing penetrations, you have a double potential for failure. Nuff said on that. Good luck with your choice. While its out, its also a good time to pull the seats etc and paint those inside door jams. In your pics, the OEM paint is showing her patina. LOL. I plan on doing the steel on my dash board and door window frame this week. The smell of fresh paint in the morning reminds me, of,,, VICTORY!
So instead of sitting watching the paint dry (theres another LOL in there someplace!) I put on my BRAVE boy pants and cut out the rear valance. MUCH easier to work on on the bench/anvil. I sat and debated where to cut for an hour with an 18" scale. Cut it once, but measured it twice. Turned out good. Fifteen minutes on the anvil and its already about 80% better. The red circled part is what was collapsed on the car and it wouldve sucked "trying" to straighten that in situ. Tomorrow thats going back in with a smidge of filler and get primed. Theres no substitute for immediate gratification.
One other issue I encountered; are the trunk letters self adhesive? Theres ZERO access for nuts from underneath. Ideas or comments??? WHEW!! Bill
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Is there any way we can get the number of photo postings increased here? This is a second post just to show off what happens when you feel destructive LOL. Nah; its all part of the master plan... Bill
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Looking good! The Buick trunk letters use the barrel nuts! They might be square on your car!?
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So the letters push in on pins? Theres no access under the lid. Also no rust around the letters, so maybe a skinny glued on gasket as well? They are in great condition and sure dont want to have to mask (and sand!) around them. Maybe a heat gun and a razor knife? Bill
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I used a very thin screwdriver and piece of plastic to pop off the script emblem on my glovebox. Have to be very careful and work your way around the emblem. Once it starts moving, the emblem will come loose easier since the pins are tapered.
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Aint that the Cats A$$???? Got the patch out, straightened and tacked back in today, oh, and ground the tack welds down for a full pass tomorrow. Speaking of Cats A$$es, heres how the hood letters came off. Well at least one for now. THANKS! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who have to cope with whatever winter throws at you . . . . .
To getcha up to speed since youve been sunning on the south coast on the Med, :hello2:
. . . . .
Okay, coastal California doesn't have temperatures aren't well below freezing or snow, but the weather has been unusually unfriendly. We have been getting a lot of needed rain, but for our location the temperatures are really chilly.
I cant believe that GM changed little things as subtle as the headliner pattern between years. Ive been looking til' Im blue in the face at patterns for the last couple of days. The pattern on my '64 is ARIEL and yours is a BASKETWEAVE. Both of the honest patterns are out of print. To me its apples and oranges, but now Ill hafta get the 2 visors resewn as well. Stay away from the later perforated type. Thats no different than a zip edge on a social security envelope. and ad to that sewing penetrations, you have a double potential for failure. Nuff said on that. Good luck with your choice.
I've been putting off the headliner replacement because I have some enhancements I would like to include in the headliner install. Right now Biquette has a Custom Autosound rear speaker bar from the 1990s:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Biquettes-rear-speaker-bar/i-HTwTNkt/0/0ffd51c5/L/Speaker%20bar%20side%20view-L.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Biquettes-rear-speaker-bar/i-HTwTNkt/A)
Here is another view:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Biquettes-rear-speaker-bar/i-ctLzXHk/0/e5afdd64/L/Speaker%20bar%20front%20view-L.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Biquette-upgrades-and-misc/Biquettes-rear-speaker-bar/i-ctLzXHk/A)
As you can see it is supported on the pillars of the rear doors and doesn't look all that bad. It does provide very good sound for a station wagon that was designed for nothing more than an AM radio. However, I would like to instead incorporate speakers directly into the headliner. I'm not sure how to come up with brackets to secure the speakers. I have a few other upgrades in mind and I absolutely want to insulate with the best stuff I can find. Biquette is after all a "long roof" and in the sun, this poor car really heats up like mad. So, I keep putting off the headliner replacement because of all these challenges.
While its out, its also a good time to pull the seats etc and paint those inside door jams. In your pics, the OEM paint is showing her patina. LOL.
Yes indeed, this will have to be done sometime.
One other issue I encountered; are the trunk letters self adhesive? Theres ZERO access for nuts from underneath. Ideas or comments???
In my sheltered life, I have never encountered a 1964-65 Buick trunk. However, I don't think any emblems were secured with adhesive back in the day. What do you'all trunk owners have to say about this?
Keep up the good work and hope that Pat continues to be on the mend!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Merry Christmas, and or happy holidays if it goes the other way. Tomorrow marks my one year anniversary with the BADLASS. Took Pat to the sawbones today and she's doing better than expected. She's down the street at OJ's and Tubby's place with the grandkids. OJ is for "orange jumpsuit". Anyway, I feel blessed, so there! After the docs' visit I got some shop time. I finished welding and grinding the valance and will probably play with some bondo (sic) tomorrow. I dont ever use Bondo; just polyester and chopped glass.
The tail panel doesnt have a drop of bondo on it yet. The trunk lid is an experiment with paint strippers. NONE of them contain MEK anymore. Theyre all green and barely work. Im just trying to keep the dust down Probably #60 on the DA, cough cough... One thing I tried and it worked was to back up the gap with a piece of 3/16 aluminum. I am fresh out of copper. Zip-zip-zip and its done. My auto darkening hood is DOA, so I hafta weld with my eyes closed. The MIG nozzle shields the arc pretty much, but its still pretty bright. No lectures puhlease!
BTW... this is the 102nd resized pic for December LOL... Bill
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Bill, I gotta say it's been great to see your progress. I admire your perseverance and wish I could do the same!
As far as paint strippers, it depends on what type of paint you are trying to remove. Lacquers just kind of soften and melt, so several applications are necessary. Enamels are easy since they wrinkle and practically fall off! If it's lacquer, using a razor blade, utility knife blade, or sharpened putty knife on the softened paint works for me. Some guys even scrape off the original paint dry. The original primer is tough to remove, scraping with a SHARP tool is best. For residual patches I'll apply another coat of stripper and use scotch brite or coarse steel wool to remove the rest. Then I'll do the final prep with 80 grit on a DA sander and coat with epoxy primer.
For backing up welds, get a piece of copper pipe and flatten one end. Or buy a magnetic one like this one from Vim Products:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VIM-Tools-MPWT-Magnetic-Plug-Weld-Tool/202262477076?epid=1623776290&hash=item2f17c87914:g:47cAAOSwfXFaqxPc (https://www.ebay.com/itm/VIM-Tools-MPWT-Magnetic-Plug-Weld-Tool/202262477076?epid=1623776290&hash=item2f17c87914:g:47cAAOSwfXFaqxPc)
Great to see the progress, Best wishes to Pat for a speedy recovery, and have a great Christmas!
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Christmas was OK... I dont have any family left so its me and Pat. She spent yesterday afternoon at her sons place, mainly to visit with the grandkids, 2&5 y.o. Xmas is for kids now. I work in the shop most days, especially with her R&R and she doesnt give me any grief. She needs a ride or a hand, Im just a phone call away.
I was ready for some bondo work today, but got sidetracked. I had to clean out the trunk gutter from old rubber weatherstripping, that was OEM glued the entire length. Still needs some more cleaning. The rubber had a 1/8" cotton string embedded in it for removal I'd guess, but it just pulled out, or broke, and made more of a mess. So far Im into it with wood chisels, screwdrivers, and a wire wheel at 20,000 rpm on an air grinder. TUFF STUFF !!
The paint stripper was left on overnight. It did nothing yesterday and this morning was almost totally dry. I tried a few scrapers, then remembered what you said about a razor blade.
AH HA! I have a few long handled razor scrapers for removing vehicle tags off the front glass Way LOWWW on the inside of the windshield. PRESTO! 99% of the stuff came right off. I dont know what they used for a primer, but that wasnt touched. Next is some 80 or 100 paper on the DA to get where I need to be. Just hafta be careful around a few spots of body putty from the factory, or replace it with new stuff.
I was going to locate and drill for the skylark chrome filler between the tail lights before any finishing work. That meant I had to install the tail lights, and trim for locating purposes. Measuring the piece, it appears to be 3/8" too long. Holding it in position, held off by the mounting studs, it looks OK. HMMM. At worst, Ill need to trim 3/16" off each end. I hope it turns out OK. Its either the cut off grinder or the table saw (!).
I knocked off at 3 p.m. today to think it over. Took a half a block walk with Pat for some exercise. Tomorrow is another day! Bill
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Got away without having to trim anything today YIPPEEEE! Had all the lights and trim on and marked the mounting holes for the valance. All six lined up pretty well, only a few needed elongating with the burr grinder. Even the center badge lined up perfectly! I amazed my own bad self. Pulled everything off and mixed 1/2 oz. of filler for the very top edge and a few minor dabs here and there. I also ran a wire wheel on the grinder to clean the gutter tray out; much cleaner. Blew it all down and masked it for some base blue. This is on top of the galvanized stuff to stop any rust from coming back.
Im using spray bombs for right now just to get some color/primer into the tight spots. This is by no means the finished product. Happy New Years coming up! Back at it tomorrow! Gonna order a headliner from these guys. 79.00 plus the box aint too bad. Comes with sail panels and visor material as well. Bill
https://www.autoobsession.com/cart.aspx (https://www.autoobsession.com/cart.aspx)
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The paint stripper ...... I don't know what they used for a primer, but that wasn't touched.......
Yeah, the factory primer is tough stuff! I'll still use paint stripper on it, it will soften just slightly, enough to use a sharp scraper to remove it. Timing is critical, stripper needs to be on there long enough but not too long, 5-15 minutes depending on conditions. DA sanding works too but IMO takes longer and makes dust.
Great job on that tail panel!
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Dear Bill, Walt, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Got away without having to trim anything today YIPPEEEE!
. . . .
Congrats on the progress!! :thumbsup:
. . . .
Gonna order a headliner from these guys. 79.00 plus the box aint too bad. Comes with sail panels and visor material as well.
Okay, I didn't know about Auto Obsession. I just added another bookmark to my extensive collection of vendors.
However, they didn't seem to sell a headliner for 1965 Buick Special wagons . . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) It's discrimination I tell ya'!!! . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/angry.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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As of yesterday afternoon, no word back from Auto obsession (AO)via email. I did call in the morning but they werent open at 0730 hrs Ca. time. Maybe they were closed for the holidays. Hmmm
Kocked some tin around on the starboard side rear quarter panel yesterday. Its coming along OK, but I may have mis-measured a piece. It was dark-30 last night, and I was done for. What I did install looked good buy working sitting on a milk crate gave me a weird perspective, hence the bad measurement. If its off today, itll be a breeze to redo it. Whats a few more hours eh?
These parts have to be made individually since my 200 ton press and dies are on loan to the Smithsonian in Xiaxing haha. One big BANG with the stamper and it wouldve been done, but now I am down to a single strip, fitting it, and tacking it one part at a time.. its really time consuming, but still turns out OK. Its just old school body working minus the LEAD.
Gonna shift this job into 3rd gear; I need to make some progress... you know, while the reindeer are sleeping it off from the other night LOL... The pics show the new patch after having trimmed out the rotten stuff back into good steel. Turned out well but might rethink doing it. The next shows the 1/4 steel brake line line used as a radius for a corner. The last one is some black quick dry primer with a rub from a sanding block. Note the high spots. If I keep massaging them, they just kinda move around. I'm OK with shrinking sheet metal, but this much means that the excess has to go somewhere else. I hate to grind it flat; thatll make it really thin, and I also hate to fill it with bondo. Thats just not right! Bill
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.....Note the high spots. If I keep massaging them, they just kinda move around. I'm OK with shrinking sheet metal ....
Bill do a search for 'shrinking disc'. They work nice for larger areas or when there are a bunch of small spots to shrink!
Neat tip on using the brake line to form an edge. I may use that sometime.
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I will probably be stripping paint next summer too on the project car so will remember the razor.
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I will probably be stripping paint next summer too on the project car so will remember the razor. So far I have hit one small spot with just steel wool and found bare metal.
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Just watched this Walt... pretty interesting. Gotta keep it C-O-O-L in between. Ever use one?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGMUEXGiySA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGMUEXGiySA)
Some other throne room reading... Im game to try something new.
https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/saving-steel-incredible-shrinking-disc-can-save-valuable-old-metal (https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/saving-steel-incredible-shrinking-disc-can-save-valuable-old-metal)
Mulled it over last night and looked at it again this morning and decided to take the cut off wheel to it and begin from scratch. This is probably one of the most complicated forms on the whole car. Compound radius's along with compound curves all mixed in on a less than flat plane to start from. The 200 ton smasher and a die would make short work outa this, so I'm stuck with fabricating each radius as I go. The big radius in front of the bumper was done in a vise with a 1/2" piece of pipe and clamp the sheet metal to the pipe with vise grips. A lot of tapping went on to get the form close. Theres gonna be a spot or two where Ill cheat and swipe some bondo in the corner with my finger. Sorry Judges; Ive got a lot of fish fryin' right now and need to get a move-on.
Ill be sooo glad when this part is done. Guys bitch about the cost of a paint job... so do the math; Im into this part with the back window, trunk floor, and a bunch of smalls for about etc for about 80 hours so far, plus the materials (electric, natural gas for heat and MIG gas and wire are all extras) for a stupid flat rate of 40.00/hour makes about 3200.00 so far and its about 1/2 way there, not including paint. Sooo, in real life where the labor rate is closer to 100.00/hour is gonna send ya for an EKG! Stay with it! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
. . . . .
Ill be sooo glad when this part is done. Guys bitch about the cost of a paint job... so do the math; Im into this part with the back window, trunk floor, and a bunch of smalls for about etc for about 80 hours so far, plus the materials (electric, natural gas for heat and MIG gas and wire are all extras) for a stupid flat rate of 40.00/hour makes about 3200.00 so far and its about 1/2 way there, not including paint. Sooo, in real life where the labor rate is closer to 100.00/hour is gonna send ya for an EKG! Stay with it! Bill
You are so right! If you want restore an old car and really have it turn out nice you have sweat every last detail. The choice is yours: invest your time or invest in somebody else's time! Lucky for you, you are enjoying at least the overall process. So the occasional painful episodes are ultimately worthwhile.
Keep up the good work!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Just watched this Walt... pretty interesting. Gotta keep it C-O-O-L in between. Ever use one?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGMUEXGiySA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGMUEXGiySA)
Some other throne room reading... Im game to try something new.
https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/saving-steel-incredible-shrinking-disc-can-save-valuable-old-metal (https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/saving-steel-incredible-shrinking-disc-can-save-valuable-old-metal)
Mulled it over last night and looked at it again this morning and decided to take the cut off wheel to it and begin from scratch. This is probably one of the most complicated forms on the whole car. Compound radius's along with compound curves all mixed in on a less than flat plane to start from. The 200 ton smasher and a die would make short work outa this, so I'm stuck with fabricating each radius as I go. The big radius in front of the bumper was done in a vise with a 1/2" piece of pipe and clamp the sheet metal to the pipe with vise grips. A lot of tapping went on to get the form close. Theres gonna be a spot or two where Ill cheat and swipe some bondo in the corner with my finger. Sorry Judges; Ive got a lot of fish fryin' right now and need to get a move-on.
Ill be sooo glad when this part is done. Guys bitch about the cost of a paint job... so do the math; Im into this part with the back window, trunk floor, and a bunch of smalls for about etc for about 80 hours so far, plus the materials (electric, natural gas for heat and MIG gas and wire are all extras) for a stupid flat rate of 40.00/hour makes about 3200.00 so far and its about 1/2 way there, not including paint. Sooo, in real life where the labor rate is closer to 100.00/hour is gonna send ya for an EKG! Stay with it! Bill
I admire you for being willing to take the task on yourself. you're correct in stating stuff like this is why paint jobs cost so much. cool video on heat shrinking. I may put it to good use in the future
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I have several Bernzomatics' (the clicker start type) and the flame is about a 2" diameter spread. I dug out the old caveman unit with a sharp point on the flame to control where the heat is to a finer control. have a wet rag handy to immediately control the temp once the flame is off the area. aught on to the process right away.
Finshed up the better part of fabbing the filler patches. The very bottom one took some doing with a multi radius, ins and outs, and backwards turns. Thats gonna have to get filled with glass. TFB! harbor Fright has a Spectrum HVLP gun which comps out to a decent DeVilbiss for 129.00 and a 25% discount coupon for new years so Im gonna pic one up. My other suction cup guns are 30-40 years old and got put away dirty. Time to man up this time.
Heres some pics of the final metal work. and some black primer on the quarter panel with zero filler on it. Its pretty darn close to being propper. Bill
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Being as anal (or is that an a$$?) that I am, I wasnt quite satisfied with the 1/4 panel repair... yet. To be honest with you, the sensory thing in the fingertips is waning, and I cant just rely on feel any more. Its lousy fingers, poor eyesight, and a lot of proof spray to I.D. the bad spots.
The final took three times of priming, ID'ing , stripping and refilling and filing to get it right; but Im good with it now. What a royal pain! Happy New Year years guys! Bill in frosty Deux Rivieres
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Nice work Bill. I know it was a pain, but it will kick up your pride and gratification level every time you see that panel and think of "before"!
Happy New Year to all!
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Nice work indeed!
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Dear Bill, Chuck, Jim, and fastidious mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I wasnt quite satisfied with the 1/4 panel repair... yet. . . . . . .
That's all the reason you really need. After all it is your car! You would never forgive yourself if you cut corners and ended up staring at a blemish every time you passed the car.
The final took three times of priming, ID'ing , stripping and refilling and filing to get it right; but Im good with it now. What a royal pain!
Congratulations! :hello2:
Happy New Year years guys! Bill in frosty Deux Rivi?res
By all means Happy New Year to you and Pat and also to all the participants of 65GS.com! :icon_thumright:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Anyone have any thoughts on removing the side trim off the Special. The front fender spears snap on. I think the doors have a front and rear screw with clips in between. The rear spears have tips (already removed) and three push ins I can see above the fender tubs. Any "fasteners" inside the rear seat panel. I hate to take more stuff apart! Bill
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Hi,
Not positive as I haven't looked that close on the Special Deluxe I have, but usually they seem to have a clip with a stud on each end of the moldings and clips in the middle, so I would take a look in the rear window cavity
If you're removing the moldings completely, let me know if you want to sell them as I would be interested
Regards,
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Just looking at the rears now, theres 3 studs with nuts on the rear spear tip extensions. One nut on the main part forward of that, and forward of those are some oval looking push ins. I hope they dont bust. The trim I have , I am gonna use--- its about 98% good. I have a few spares that need some finesse work that may be for sale. The '64 trim is a one year only and impossible to find. Ive been looking for a year for some nicer stuff. Its aluminum and a shopping cart ding can do a ton of damage.
I'm not for certain right now, but I may replace it all with some self adhesive stuff off a roll. Im sure you are aware the stuff is unobtanium ($$$) but if you email me we can discuss this further. Bill at yachtsman36@charter.net
Im in the shop now, and all my pics are on the desk top files inside. Let me know.
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Hi,
Email sent.
Regards,
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Took all the trim off today and not a single welded stud, Several spring tensioned clips with nuts that go into the trim, and about 30 "bath tub" Nylon push ins.
The holes for those are only 1/4" x 1/2". The front and back of the door trim had nylon jobs with steel studs and phillips screws. Spent a few hours chasing down affordable paint Rots-o-ruck! The sample is black primer, with navy blue and navy blue metallic on that. So thats my story and I'm sticking with it! Bill
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Oh... lest we forget the final quarter panel repair! Today TWO RIVERS, tomorrow, THE SANDER! :tongue3: :tard: :help: Bill
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Thanks Bill for sharing the details of how these trim parts are fastened. I had to try to chase some of these fasteners after Biquette was hit by a German sports sedan in 2010 - mostly in vain! I sure hope I won't ever have to do that again, but this information will be handy to all the restorers on this board. :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Its all good Ed! This guy has the store of stores for vintage trim clips! Bill
https://www.ebay.com/str/althafastener (https://www.ebay.com/str/althafastener)
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117 days to go. The trunk lid took two doses of stripper to get to the OEM primer. There was a few gouges down to the steel so that means fillem' up! NO WAIT! Sand the heck out of it instead. way more fun. Thats about 2 hours with #60 on the DA. I have to use my Porter Cable electric since I dont have enough air for the Rodac. Still had to make a few divits disappear, and the figure eight one was two bumps from grammas walker in the trunk.
Got down to close proximity to the trunk lock, so that came out next. Glad Minnie wasnt home! The whole trunk lip was full, and now they are evicted. Air France??? LOL. Nah... Craftsman Airlines, and a sucker thang. Clear on runway 92R.
Gonna suffer through meal #2 of a 35.00 prime rib tonight! Bill
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Slugging it out with a perfect dent removal job versus me LOL... Headliner is due here Tuesday. A while back there was a reference (Walt??) that linked a supplier for the eggshells (ha ha) for the rear window. These are way better that the 70-72's but still died young. I'd like to order a pair. Links again please??? Bill
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Thank you Bill!!
Its all good Ed! This guy has the store of stores for vintage trim clips! Bill
Just added to my seemingly endless collection of bookmarks for 1965 Buick parts!! :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Its seems after some archiving that Robin sent me the link:
https://www.opgi.com/Cart.aspx (https://www.opgi.com/Cart.aspx)
Still wondering about the fit and the color; black I'd pressume?? Bill
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I cant believe how everyone is still sleeping off new years eve! UP N' ATTEM!
Yeah, so perfection is still sought after around here. This lousy dimple in the trunk lid (from the inside) refused to yield. I tried the hot spot, planishing, hammer and dolly and couldnt get anywhere past a bad case of oil canning. Finally I yielded and banged it in 1/32" and began to fill it. Erred on the side of caution kept me mixing filler by the dab-ful and couldnt get anywhere with it.
Finally dusted it with primer for a really good look and found the dimple in was actually about 6" across. It got refilled, board sanded 4X and a final of primer of which I ran out. I used the light gray since its gotta sit overnight and didnt want any contamination in it.
Also received the Flip Back style paper clips for the headliner job thats coming up. I bought FOUR DOZEN at a knee kickin' cost of SEVENTY NINE CENTS PER DOZEN. Thats right 3.20 for 4 dozen plus a small box for the USPS.
Still working on paint. A pal with a large account for boat electronics, paint and marine stuff in Florida is helping me with his wholesaler:
FinishMaster.com Lotsa brands of everything from automotive to marine to fleet and aircraft top coatings. Another link for ya Ed!
Heading for a few spray bombs of primer in the A.M. for a nice 380 sand job and a final wet sand on the trunk lid... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
. . . . .This lousy dimple in the trunk lid (from the inside) refused to yield.
. . . . .
It got refilled, board sanded 4X and a final of primer . . . . .
That turned out to be more of a chore than it appeared all right. Perseverance ultimately paid off! :thumbsup:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Jokes on the fat man LOL! I left at 0800 today for retards for some more spray paint (primer). I was gonna by a couple of quarts of black but all they make is red and white... Think operation petticoat! Not good. So I buy 3 more spray cans just to get whats bare, covered. I get all the way to the checkout and the kid grabbed me gray. Back all the way to the paint dept for some black. All that was there was 3 cans. One had a wrinkled label like it got too close to a heater in the store.
I get home and sanded all the stuff plus the port side quarter today and found red primer under the paint. Some ones been in there before me. The blue paint was cracked beyond a simple sand job so it had to come down to the red. Sand, sand, sand, and then a quick blow job and then a quick tack job. Shot one can around all the edging and hidden areas, and grabbed the damaged can next. The crap came out like Christmas Tree flocking. UN-BE-LIEVABLE!
After a half a can I quit. Thats going back to retards next time. Tried sanding it and it only loaded up the paper. Theres only a few other minor repairs that need done, and those are getting the black. Then Ill sand the whole car and shoot the bassturd red. At least all the shiny stuff got covered. The round spot on the trunk is a 4x build up with good primer around the repair for a nice feather edge fill when sanding. At least it looks good.
Buick 3, Willy, zero. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Sorry about your paint miseries.
. . . . .
I get home and sanded all the stuff plus the port side quarter today and found red primer under the paint. Some ones been in there before me.
. . . . .
People make a fuss about barn finds, but I wonder how many cars that are 50+ years old still exist having never had any accident damage. Certainly a few barn finds are exactly that, but they must be extremely rare indeed!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Barn finds are cool, but this pony was rode hard and put away wet LOL. Still though, the worst of the rust was the trunk and lower tail light buckets. Got the flocking done and I had to have a smoke afterwords; then a sammich. It was the best flock I had in a long time haha. It actually gave me the ops to do a little more finesse work to the trunk lid.
After exposing the red primer on the back, I expected the worst. Covered it with black primer and gave it a long boarding, and it actually looks pretty darn good. Sitting there "pondering" (beats pandering!) I sprayed a dust of light primer up to the door edge and found a few very minor parking lot dings. Just barely enough to address, but heck, while Im there I may as well... :boxing:
If Im real lucky, Ill get to go to the range and try out my new guns. The purple one is just for primer and cruddy stuff but was only 9.99 at harbor fright. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Barn finds are cool, but this pony was rode hard and put away wet LOL. . . . .
It has been a struggle for you, but considering the years, this car really was in wonderful condition.
After exposing the red primer on the back, I expected the worst. Covered it with black primer and gave it a long boarding, and it actually looks pretty darn good. Sitting there "pondering" (beats pandering!) I sprayed a dust of light primer up to the door edge and found a few very minor parking lot dings. Just barely enough to address, but heck, while Im there I may as well... :boxing:
It is another one of these cases where if you didn't you would eventually regret not having invested the modest additional time and effort.
If Im real lucky, Ill get to go to the range and try out my new guns. The purple one is just for primer and cruddy stuff but was only 9.99 at harbor fright. Bill
Big spender!! . . . . :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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That darn rustoleum at 10.00 a quart is gonna kill me! Hhaha. I thought there was gonna be an issue; theres a few places that were primed, and then painted before the base dried and caused the top coat to crack. The best challenge about doing this stuff is trying to get away with being "frugal". Theres a few things that need to be bought main stream, but the labor is cheap.
So I managed to get all the windshield trim off without busting the glass. There was a lot of crud packed under the trim so that the clips didnt want to release. They all gave in however. Glad to see zero rot in the corners up front! Dusted the whole car with light primer looking for more dings before the real work started. There was a little parking lot (someone probably backed into gramma at church!) on the front passenger fender. I went ahead and hung the fender last year as is, figuring to get to it later. Later was today. A 6 foot 2x4 against the tire, and a crow bar made the damn thing laugh at me. Grrrr!!
So Ive been watching this youtube series called "Trev's Blog" about old school bodywork. Hmmm. It doesnt look like it , but that ding was in a good 3/4 inch. Not only is there a radius for the tire, but an actual positive flair on the fender. I ended up welding a Longgg U-bolt to the fender and slid a heavy crow bar in there and slammed it home. Seriously folks, fifty swings to pop it back from whence it came including even pulling the welds off the sheet metal a few times. This had to be done with the inner fender attached. YIKES!! Its right where it needs to be. Ill address it tomorrow.Whats another teaspoon of filler??
While I have the welder out and grinders going in the ex clean shop again, I think Im gonna do the tiny repairs to bottom od the front fenders, then the fab work will be completed. Goofing off today left me some time to mount my air hose real (5.00 at a garage sale! Made in USA too!!) and run a new hose from Shop "A".
Just another day at Pleasantdale... Bill
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In conclusion, due to pic limits, heres the "epilogue". Bill
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Managed to get the ding in the front passenger ding out 3/4 inch, The stickly problems was its way wayy close to the rocker panel that I took a chance and gave it a zap to get it flat again. being as close as it was, I managed to zap the lower rocke with a buzz that touched the two panels together. Ive get to reassemble with some correct gaps. Probably gonna take some bolts out upstairs to gain the clearance and some minot resalignment.
After opening the hole, I also discovered the inner frame also had a minor hole in I which I had to repair to give it some rigidity. One more smaller hole (1/2 the size) on the other side and then I can wrap the welder stuff stuff up. Five hours on the cold concrete was enough LOL! Bed time! Bill
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Not that its the only thing going on during shop time, but this is the culmination of 2 days spent out in "B". While the filler is hardening or the primer is drying, Im running the longboard over the whole car. Theres a very few minor dings. Once all this stuff is done, the cars getting the 120 on the DA treatment. Then its the primer. This is gonna eliminate a few steps while priming to stop and fix the dings.
Only have the drivers side fender to finish up. Thats where Johnny stopped restoring grammas car. Looks surprisingly like the side I just finished!
One or two coats of primer and she'll be ready for a topcoat sanding. If you've never longboarded a car, c'mon by and you can practice all day on the 36 foot boat LOL. Starting to look like the Pillsbury Doughboy haha. Still having fun! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick restorers,
Thanks for the status updates and da' pics! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/kewlpics.gif)
. . . . .
. . . Still having fun!
That's da' important part! :icon_thumright:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Bill, you sure are rolling along. Nice work,and thanks for the great pictures and especially your colorful dialogue. I'm sure a lot of us look forward to your posts..I know I do!
The last picture reminds me of waking up every morning back in the day. (green blanket) :angel4:
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Just trying to keep that 465 warm for the winter! Somewhere in the pics is my white (used to be LOL) blanky for laying on the floor with. Dang garage is 75F with a 125KBTU furnace, but lay down on that floor and yowza! Makes ya wish for summertime. Now they are talking 6-12 inches of snow Saturday night. Ill hafta take3 "Got Snow?" out for a spin Sunday morning. Electric start with an enclosed cab and a hot air pipe off the motor; I laugh at the weather! All thats missing is a cigarette lighter!
Roseland Buick is where the BADLASS came from; trivia anyone?? Bill
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For the life of me, I cant figure out how the factory could do a headliner job in 30 seconds. They mustve had a team of 8 midgets inside each car coming down the line. Even with the back seat cushions out, I took up half the back seat. I did at least 50 yoga moves on each side, but got that dang headliner in place.
Cien por Ciento.
When the box showed up it was folded about 16 times. I unfolded it and rolled it up nice and tight, which helped flatten that issue back out. I had all the stays cleaned and painted AND marked in order, plus each stay position in the roof marked. All the youtube videos show later stuff being installed with the stays going into a plastic receiver.
WRONGO!
I had all the stays in the pockets and then realized I had the part upside down. The fact that it wasnt marked front or back was a crap shoot and I rolled sevens. That part was OK. The unit went up starting in the front as per the YT vids.
WRONG again.
You start at the center which has smallish steel points that hold the center (#3) stay in place. These get rebent closed to hold the center up. There was no other way to do that without pushing them closed through the material. The #1&2 stays go into forward facing receivers, and #4&5 go into rear facing receivers. Those had to get pushed closed as well, but theres only one on the center of each bow. Twenty four paper clips held it up and in place to take a form overnight. Theres barely a wrinkle in it. Ill be dipped in doo-doo.
So this part of the process took almost 4 hours. I think Im ready for Detroilet now! Just need to lose 200 lbs and about 18 inches (in height haha!). Probably finish this tomorrow with the cleaned hammeron molding and some glue. Then the back window happens monday, I hope!
Gone fishin'; ice fishin' that is... Bill
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I would bet having no windows, doors or interior made the job faster at the factory. I had all those advantages and 30 seconds was never even a remote possibility. It was more like three hours.
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Yeah... I hafta admit I got a little lazy by not pulling the windshield out but the back glass and side glass open still helped.
Now its a piece of cardboard with felt glued down. Even spraying the glue and rolling it through a press is probably all automoton work. Portion control to the penny, ya know? Bill
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., and mid-60s Buick owners who have trouble with the "ups and downs of things". . . . . . . :laughing7:
For the life of me, I cant figure out how the factory could do a headliner job in 30 seconds.
. . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Silly boy! You forgot the key first step! Turn the car upside down and rest it on its roof! Then installing the headliner will be much easier! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Yeah I know, another bit of advice to file under: "With friends like this, I don't need any enemies!" . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/D'oh.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Funny you should mention that! Henry Ford wanted to prove how much safer an all steel body was in 1926. Still had wood cross beams, but the rest was all welded steel. Those 25 mph roll-overs were pretty tough business back the! COW 3; Flivver zero LOL Bill
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Only had a while, and a sore back (!) today so I managed to get the dome light back in and make a few adjustments on the headliner. Just letting it take its' sweet time becoming accustomed to where its gonna live for the next 50 years.
Also went through the sail panels; theres an inner and an outer. The outer has the fabric glued to it and the inner, which is a bit larger, has a mounting bar attached to it for securing the bottom edge of the headliner before the sail panels go in. The inners' are gonna get cut out of some syntho-plastic craft board from Hobby Lobby. Im also making the package tray out of the same material. Worked out well on the '72 XGS. I wanna get all this stuff done before the glass goes in.
So tomorrow is a trip to the glass guy for a roll of butyl mounting tape. Then to menards for a bottle of contact cement, then to HL for the cardboard stuff. Homeward bound for some work then; that oughta put us into noon.
The sail panels had one each, of these clips. These are off the package tray (4 of them!) and with the new stuff which will probably get screwed down with stainless screws with finish washers, I hafta swipe two of them for the panels. The originals vaporized. I was all over the back end with a flashlight and mirror and they were no where to be found. The panels were deteriorated to the point that they may have just rusted away. Thoughts or ideas on this??
The last issue, which isnt news, but upon further investigation, looks like another repair. Was this fresh lacquer on un-dried primer or bondo? Its on both sides, so should the paint get ground down, paint stripper or what? Theres no way its just getting filled as a patch. Whats' the body guy exspurts recommend? Bill
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Too much lacquer applied too quickly will shrink and eventually crack and craze. I would guess that is what happened there. Most body guys would tell you not to trust the work of someone else. I think you could seal it if you sand off the lacquer and like what you see. You will be sealing it anyway if doing base/clear. Enamel would probably go over it without sealer if the primer takes.
Walt turned me on to these guys (http://autobodystore.com/forum/forum.php) at least 15 years ago. I have found them immensely helpful when posting, searching, calling or buying supplies. I got my positive pressure suit from them at a great value. That takes a lot of the worry and hurry out of painting.
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..... roll of butyl mounting tape. .....
Along with that butyl tape, 3M recommends using their primer.
Agree that any cracked paint/filler should be removed before a repaint.
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Lookin good Bill,
You have to get angry at those cracks in the lacquer....I?m talking 36 grit or 80 grit right to bare metal...I would sand or grind it off with a 36 and then feather it all back in with 80 and taper any feather edges with 150 before using an epoxy primer for a base. There is absolutely no doubt they will be back if you give them the opportunity. If you are not dealing with any rust and have the patience to deal with it,we used to wet sand the lacquer off with 220 rolled around a paint stick as a block to prep it without filling deep scratches. Either way, it ALL has to come off where cracks are present. The Auto Value stores in my area sell a lead based(unhealthy) epoxy primer with activator very reasonable. The reason for the lead is to create a hard surface that aids in final blocking that is very difficult to sand through. You put on a couple decent coats,let dry overnight and spray directly over it with two coats of 2K urethane primer. Now you have an epoxy base that won?t chip,crack,or peel and a different color topcoat that you can block out until it is ready to seal and paint. Use at least a good paint mask with low pressure (who cares how smooth it goes on)so you are not breathing all the fog that high pressure creates. The epoxy primers have to be top coated within 24 hours or they have to be sanded to promote adhesion. Dan
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Those cracks were one of the first things I noticed when looking at the car before buying it. There was the same issue on the drivers side a few weeks ago and if I recall, I sanded them down to the red primer and it was a well done primer job. I dont recall using paint stripper like I did on the trunk, but, the end result was almost perfect with a long board with 100 grit. Im probably gonna try a spot area with the stripper and go from there just to help keep the dark blue dust down to a minimum haha.
Today I picked up all the glass stuff. The glass guy explained in great detail how its done, gave me a roll of the butyl tape, a bottle of primer with some "ball" brushes and a caulking gun tube of butyl sealant. Just a small, 1/8" bead around the outside edge of the tape which is put on the glass BTW, and set it in place. He also gave me a special little tool to spread any squeezed out stuff back into the joint for any irregularities, especially where I fabbed all the channel work together. For 25.00 I couldnt go wrong!
After that I shot to menards and they had a "if it fits in the bag its 15% off" sale. For mr that was a gallon of MEK, a quart of contact cement, tape, brushes and some more black sandable primer for 44.00. Such a deal. Tomorrow Im gonna see how the new headliner flattened out, and maybe start the final approach on that job.
The cardboard sail panels and package tray were some weird cardboard stuff that had gotten wet, and eaten by the meeces, and I managed to find a 4x8 sheet of some 1/8" tile board (think shower liner) at retards for 20.00 The OEM stuff MIC'd up at .100" so thats good. Paint it satin black and thats a done deal. Tuff titties on no foam rubber underlayment.
The pic shows the other DE_CRACKED paint job down to the red primer. Kinda weird with no indication of bondo underneath it. Long board picked up 2-3 very minor dings which are now history. Im not looking for perfection, just want it correct. Hmmm..... Bill
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WOW!! Just went back and re-read the first few pages from the beginning of this odyssey from 55 weeks ago. Think she's gonna be a bit more presentable this "season". At the beginning, Mike, AKA Trunk Monkey posted a few pics of his '65 "back in the day". Was that car black or really dark blue?
A few months ago, I was at a garage sale and bought 3-4 gallons of NAPA brand paint reducer for $1.00 a gallon. I think thats where Im headed on the primer. Stuck jerking my own chain about paint. The last time I did any thing major, it was mix your own in Lacquer or enamel. As par for the course, its become a confusing issue, plus the fact that my money printer is fresh out of Blue Gypsy Moth ink. I used to spend BOO-KOO bucks on paint for the boat, but the funds are limited these days, and I am trying to get the best bang for the buck. Over on "TeamBuick" (!) I keep getting pop up ads for a paint outfit in Toms River NJ.
Just cant decide ($$ ?? again) on a base coat clear coat or a hardened acrylic enamel. The 'Lass sleeps inside and is really only in the sun for outings. Is UV protection really that critical for this instance?
Anyways, had to take a few days off. My best pal up here had to put his 15 YO Lab down. I got the call at 0400 to see if I could help the poor paralyzed dog out to his Exploder for the trip to the vet, and then another 160 miles each way up to Merrill Wi. to the family farm for a burial. His dad has a Case backhoe and dug the hole. I drove the whole trip as Jeff works middle shift and had been up 30+ hours plus the emotional turmoil. It hit him hard. He kepy crying and thanking me; all I could say is "Thats' what friends are for"...
Today I went to Menards and picked up a 4x8 sheet of white plastic sheeting thats paintable, and MIC'd up at .095" whereas the OEM cardboard for the package tray and sail panels was an even .100". Dont spill the beans to the judges PUHLEEZ! I have a spare 6x9 big magnet for a speaker speaker thats gonna go in the package tray while its apart. Theres an OEM A.M. radio in the dash thats dead with a single front 3x10(?) speaker that'll get me going when I get a ghetto blaster going. Right now that 465 honker sounds good strolling down the road, but if we make the power tour this year, the noise is gonna get old in a hurry.
Go back and re-read some stuff from the beginning; hell, I wrote it and still found it entertaining! Bill
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.... cant decide ($$ ?? again) on a base coat clear coat or a hardened acrylic enamel.....
Hardened (catalyzed) Acrylic Enamel is pretty good stuff. The hardener additive makes it cure faster since it's a chemical reaction. In plain 'ole enamel, the paint stays soft for months while the reducer slowly evaporates.
The biggest advantage to modern urethane base/clear is that you can wet sand the clear for a smooth finish without disturbing the metalflake in the basecoat. And they say repairing a base/clear job is easier to blend in.
Also consider single stage urethane. Like hardened enamel, you don't want to wet sand after the final coat. But (I believe) it cures faster than the enamel and at least you can sand the first coats flat, then apply a final coat that will hopefully lay out nice and not require polishing afterwards.
Of course, the ability to apply a nice smooth final coat (skill and equipment) may point to which paint is best for you.
The guys on V8 such as Ethan could give you some great advise on which way to go. And also the Autobodystore.com forums that the Dr mentioned are the go-to for pro advise.
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I guess my problem is Im trying to "cheap out" on the paint which is wrong. Geez, Ive been painting boats (biggens'!) with AWLGRIP, a true catalyzed polyurethane and Interlux Perfections for decades, but cant swing one to two grand plus, for a gallons' worth of product (Thats the primers, reducers paint and catalyst), and then we're back to the metallic issue, and least on those brands. I may have to bite the bullet and go "plastic". It'll be a few more weeks before I hafta pull the plug, so Im sure there'll be another few hundred questions.
On another note, I see this guy has the 4 door '65 with factory AC back for sale again. Anything anyone needs thats worth a 40 minute drive for me to go get? Its a California car with very little rust. The pics are from when I saw it last because I got the antenna and rocker covers. Let me know. The stupid turn signal lever is probably still there (blue?)! Bill
https://sheboygan.craigslist.org/pts/d/newton-1965-buick-parts-car-califonia/7056383112.html
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Wow you are making great progress! Have you looked at the paint kits from Eastwood!? Just a thought? When I get the convert to the paint stage I will probably use the single stage kit for it! It is a black car so get it straight and spray it! I would like to drive it a lot so I know it will get lumps! Do you recall in how good of shape the rear tail panel is!?
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Thanks! Its getting to be a little trip into the unknown wanting the headliner to be perfect! Go back about 10 pages and you can follow all the rear end steel replacement. VERY LITTLE filler anywhere, from me anyways! I also have the nicer skylark chrome panel (64 only!!) that goes between the tail lights. Gonna do away with the 64 venti-ports. Cant find 6 nice ones so Ill probably get a nice custom set, maybe from a mid 50s Buick?? Bill
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Sorry man.. I was out in the shop before and literally had my hands full... of glue and small trimmings off the sail panels. What a mess at first; then I had a brain fart.
I used to help a pal do custom trim worklike 4 decades ago. He always had a "trim" table for cutting etc right next to his sewing machine, AND, a glue table in the back of the shop. Hmmm. The first panel I laid flat and traced it so I knew where to spray the glue. UH HUH! First touch down was wrong, and already stuck but good.
SIX hands worth of goo later, I got it apart now fully contaminated with rag particles from cleaning stuff which meant, dirty rags. So now theres gooey fingerprint all over the place. Lacquer thinner didnt touch this stuff. Its 3M headliner adhesive. Just like the gas pedal glue in The Blues Brothers... "Really good stuff..."
Got the first one straightened out, folded over and THEN, had to trim the excess... WRONGO BONZO! More gooey strips and crap all over my shears and every where imaginable. Double Hmmm. The second panel I traced, added a 1/2" stick and traced outside the trace for a trim line. BRILLIANT! Trimmed all the excess and pleats and gores (I felt like Omar the tent maker!) and sprayed the sticky jizz on both pieces and was wayyyy more careful when I landed at Tranquility Base.
HOUSTON: The OGRE has landed!
It was a breeze. Just too dang long and you forget the little tricks. So before I left in a huff,I made a few adjustments in the clips on the headliner trying work the majority of wrinkles out before another glue episode. Seriously, in one second I went from smiling and singing along on the radio to mass panic with anything I touched sticking to my hands and anything else it touched. KRIPES
So, if yer still following, I cut the sail panel backers and the package tray outa some plastic sheeting from Menards thats about 20.00 a sheet. Its .095" thick and the swollen cardboard from moisture was .100" I think this is OK.
Traced out the shelf and went to make my first cut with the shears and thought "THIS IS GONNA SUCK" looking at the next 20 feet of cutting to do. Pulled out a trusty FUTILITY knife with a new blade and the stuff cut like butter. PTL brutha, PTL.
Two nice juicy coats of satin black rustoleum and it looks purdy. Either "nice" or "good", your choice, but purdy. Bill
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Yo Walt... Sorry I forgot to acknowledge your paint reply! I hafta stop looking at this things as tho its an old Ford 8N that needs a coat of paint, and instead look at the paint as a cost part of the restoration. I still hate to call it that, but its beyond patina from here on in. Bill
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Bill, I did my 65 in hardened acrylic enamel and was very happy with the results. But, that was a single color with no flake or pearl. If I ever get to the point of paint for the 66, it will be a base/clear in metal flake burgundy. That will mean a lot of extra work with panels that have two sides like doors and fenders: Prime one side, prime the other, seal one side, seal the other, base one side, base the other, clear one side, clear the other and watch the over spray at all times.
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That shine sure makes it look nice-n-juicy! Maybe I'm beating a dead horse here and should just go with some single color stuff like that in dark(est) blue I can find. I can always ad some custom touches next year; you know, panels etc. So was that red just an off the shelf product? Brand? Appreciate the pic; I'm salavatating!
Bill
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Bill, That is single stage Nason FUL-CRYL II Acrylic Enamel. Nason is made by Dupont. It is their ecomomy paint, but most say it is the same as their general line under a different name. The first gallon was mixed long before i was ready to paint using the Dupont formula for Flame Red. I had them mix another two quarts the same way and mixed it all together. It is very close if not the same exact color as the trunk hinges and other hidden/protected original paint. The 65 is my first and last endeavor in restoring to original. I like to modify, but this one came all # matching in boxes and bags.
Steve
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Dr. Frank... I can absolutely relate to that, but once the 455 process was underway all bets were off. As for now, with Grammas DeLuxe interior etc. Im just interested in getting some good looking paint on it. Me thinkst that any future custom work can be done with a ton of masking and a concept idea. Too dang much turkey on the plate and not enough dressing for this go around.
Im gonna be looking around for some of that DuPont paint! Bill
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I just sent this guy an email requesting a color chip. Could it be that easy? Do you think a gallon kit will be enough for the car over a dark primer? Bill
https://www.google.com/search?q=Nason+FUL-CRYL+II+Acrylic+Enamel&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjZhZWm2ornAhWJPM0KHSDdCCoQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1536&bih=750&dpr=1.25#spd=16449276316873007995 (https://www.google.com/search?q=Nason+FUL-CRYL+II+Acrylic+Enamel&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjZhZWm2ornAhWJPM0KHSDdCCoQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1536&bih=750&dpr=1.25#spd=16449276316873007995)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DARK-BLUE-METALIC-ACRYLIC-ENAMEL-SINGLE-STAGE-AUTO-BODY-SHOP-RESTORATION-PAINT-/390484578379?hash=item5aeab1d04b (https://www.ebay.com/itm/DARK-BLUE-METALIC-ACRYLIC-ENAMEL-SINGLE-STAGE-AUTO-BODY-SHOP-RESTORATION-PAINT-/390484578379?hash=item5aeab1d04b)
https://www.ebay.com/i/390778374688?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=390778374688&targetid=856357246776&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9019109&poi=&campaignid=6470552628&mkgroupid=89345499032&rlsatarget=aud-762207186714:pla-856357246776&abcId=1139336&merchantid=6413524&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh66MuN6K5wIVxkXVCh2sKAMoEAkYASABEgJDu_D_BwE (https://www.ebay.com/i/390778374688?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=390778374688&targetid=856357246776&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9019109&poi=&campaignid=6470552628&mkgroupid=89345499032&rlsatarget=aud-762207186714:pla-856357246776&abcId=1139336&merchantid=6413524&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh66MuN6K5wIVxkXVCh2sKAMoEAkYASABEgJDu_D_BwE)
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On the road now, but is very hard to fix mistakes/heavy media areas with a single stage paint. It?s great if you do it ALL right the first time, but it will take LOT of work to fix if not. The media will not pop or have the depth of a base/clear. I used a gallon and a half with a pint left over of the single stage.
Steve
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I just sent this guy an email requesting a color chip. Could it be that easy?
. . . .
I have absolutely no idea how easy it would be but I did a web search on Nason acrylic enamel auto paint and came up with two videos from a body shop on how to use this paint. The first shows repainting an entire car:
https://youtu.be/2H3UHCgQu2Q (https://youtu.be/2H3UHCgQu2Q)
The second shows painting a door panel:
https://youtu.be/-ykX4DNCcNw (https://youtu.be/-ykX4DNCcNw)
Perhaps the videos will help you decide how comfortable you are with this painting strategy for BADLASS. Nonetheless, . . . . .
. . . I hafta stop looking at this things as tho its an old Ford 8N that needs a coat of paint, and instead look at the paint as a cost part of the restoration.
. . . .
You have put a ton of work restoring the body of BADLASS. It would be really a shame to skimp on the paint. After all that trouble, I'm sure you want BADLASS to really be a car that you can proudly display at a car show. Perhaps you need to ponder some budget shuffling so that you can paint BADLASS in a way that you truly feel good about.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I agree with both of you guys. I had really good results painting my 1968 Electra 225 with a BC/CC from Spies/Hecker. To make a long story short, I told the guy I bought it from it was gonna get painted outside... He kicked my butt for 6 months and persuaded me to paint it in my old garage, which incidentally was full of birds in the attic and they sure didnt like the fumes LOL. Joke was on me that time!
Theres so many ins and outs to this besides the cost of the material. Masking all the door jamb stuff for paint, weatherstripping etc etc. The most important one is how out of practice I am. I should just do a dark blue and call it a day then recoat next year. I cant say Im overwhelmed from the work, but all the footwork trying to get all the eggs into one basket is befuddling me. Hmmm...
Still playing with the headliner job. Gotta have that done so I can get that glass in Sunday I hope with some help from my pal Jeff. He works nights for Federal Mogul chrome plating piston rings, and is only available after church Sunday. KRIPES!
Got all the windlaces into the bath tub for a scrub this morning while the place was warming up. It was about +8F here. After washing all the pcs. I realized the rear window inside trim was MIA. That was a wasted hour, but found them well put away so they wouldnt get damaged. Weird as it sounds, it looks like they had been replaced. Altho they were blue, they had some ancient green masking tape on them as tho the blue ones were put into a green car that was missing a set, and covered with tape to match. Somebody got some bad acid. As everyone knows, 40 year old tape sucks. I ended up scraping the stuff off, then washing with a 3M scrub pad (scrunge) with mineral spirits and they look like new. That old tape has a P.U. factor of about 23 when it came off.
So that stuff is all done, and I fitted the base sail panels, and did some more headliner stretching. I also made one of those helper tools from an old scraper. Rounded the corners and bent the blade to push the stuff up into the channel. Worked like a champ! Then I was feeling overwhelmed again looking at the job from the front seat and decided it was time to man up.
With the cloth all snugged up, I ran the windlace edge with a blue marker between all the clips. I needed to know where to trim and where to put the glue. The contact cement was done by brush. I finished the front windshield piece and got it all secured. Turned out really good. I had to leave the material long to pull on against the windshield. The welting will come off tomorrow and trim the the HL in place, then continue down the sides. I had to straddle the shifter with a bedsheet across everything so I didnt drip glue all over. Its pretty "hot" on anything plastic... kinda like model glue.
So the white sail panels are in and Im not sure about the steel bars. Does the HL material wrap around under them and then tighten? The finished sail panels cover them up into a nice finished seam. They were full of glue and old cardboard and I didnt pay that close attention when removing them. My bad!
I hope the long chats dont getcha guys bored. I have a tendency to be thorough and long winded LOL. Bill
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Bill, I cant remember how it all fits together back there as it has been a long time. I do recall that you have to leave extra material on the headliner near the sail panels or what is behind can show through. Mine was very close to having to cheat the panel one way or another to cover.
I had two friends that worked in a high end body shop after graduating high school for a while. They helped me paint my 63 Riv in the mid 80s. We used a single stage Centari Enamel with metalflake and painted it in the huge garage of my excavator (and sometimes employer) neighbor. People would wave me over just to talk about the car and paint job. Two of us were even pulled over by the Man because we looked to young to belong in that car (I think he just wanted to look at it too). When I think of that paint job compared to say a factory Nissan base/clear metalflake, the Nissan paint looks ten feet deep and the flake sparkles like it is suspended. Sorry to say, our single stage metallfake was nowhere near that!
:dontknow:
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Yeah man... I am always on the lookout at new car colors. The cars suck, but theres some wild paint on them!
I did get a few pics of the old stuff coming down and I see that tail hanging down. Thats not a problem to stuff it up with cement, but if it needs a strain to hold it taught, I may hafta put a few cheater screws through the sail panel; strategic of course! Oval head phillips with finish washers in stainless of course! Bill
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Bill,
At this stage I can see you and my dad at the bar trying to explain the cost savings of enamel,lacquer,single stage urethane,etc....all while drinking the flat,outdated,draft beer because it is only fifty cents. I get it.....but NO.....You have spent all this time working so you can rest and have a beer so spend just a tad bit and get a foamy one. Base coat/clear coat is the ONLY way to paint a nice car if using metallic colors. Single stage urethane or hardened enamel only works for solid(non metallic colors). You can not paint a car that you will be happy with the final result without a final polishing. This is not possible without clear over metallics. So you either have to pick a solid color or plan on clearing. There has been too much preparation to dump draft beer on it and it adds NOTHING to a restored car. The best advice you have gotten is to look at the NASON products. I can buy a gallon of clear urethane and activator here for $140(enough to paint whole car). You can base in color with DuPont,ppg, autocolor,RM,just about anything as long as it is an automotive bc/cc system and cover it with four coats of nason. Four coats is overkill,but it lets you sand and polish until you can count the hairs on your head(literally) and when you are done,you have added UV protection and value to your effort. You are at the point where you will have a clean show car or an old car that has been painted. My friend has a 64 special that his dad bought new....just got hosed(according to his other buddy)because the body shop hit him $9200 to paint it. I recently saw it and had to get a laugh.... I said, ?wow,they sure hosed you good,they turned your $4000 Buick into a $20,000 car.? He got WAY more than he paid for...they literally took it apart and put it back together bc/cc and you can not see where it has had any paint work done. The difference in materials price has nothing to do with the $9200....you have already did the work....buy good paint.
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BLATZ the beer refreshing! Hey, at least its pasteurized LOL... :icon_thumright: :icon_thumright: Yeah, the more I think about it, I really should go with a BC/CC. This whole process is gonna start out with a few coats of black primer WELL sanded. Any thoughts on that? I was going to get a few quarts up at napa in town. I have several gallons of reducer for it (napa brand) so I can cheap out there and not get a hangover. Ill just hafta deal with that Beer Parlor Palor. Ever hear of that one? Thats when you have zero tan from always sitting in a dark tavern; Ill look kinda gray after the primer Im sure!
Please keep beating me up on the paint deal. Yeah, cost is a factor, but then this aint no tractor! Maybe I should keep my daytime job eh?
So today Im a top and trim guy. This is the third full day of headlining. My pal is coming over at noon to help set the glass, so this has to be done. Im getting an early start tomorrow, so no calls OK? Right now I am at about the 80% stage. All the front windlace is on and cloth trimmed with no wrinkles. Pucker string tight! I played midget today in the back seat (yeah right!) and got the whole thing pulled tight and have the rear windlace in place so the glue will hold on its own, Ill pop that off and trim the cloth in the morning. The pics show some major wrinkles at the back window. I came in for coffee at 5 p.m. and mulled it over; I went back out and pulled the last panel down for another stretch. That glue was AH tight already! Glad I bit the weenie on that one. Sail panels and rear shelf in the morning and its gonna be glass time. THEN, I can commence sanding etc. Cant wait to do something different LOL...
Had to show off the "charm knife" I made too. Its all nice and smooth for pushing that cloth wayyy up into the channel, then the windlace is a breeze. Bill
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Went to the UP a couple years ago and they still had BLATZ.....I prefer it over most anything.....scary stuff here. I'm getting off subject so I will add that the lower cost epoxy primers can be reduced and used as sealer for a final coat before spraying color. Probably one quart with activator can be reduced to spray a nice even coat over whole car. This will stop any A-whole rings(as we used to call them)where sanded edges meet sanded edges.
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YUP... Blatz and Hamms. Actually I drink Left Hand Brewing co.s' Nitro Stout. Frosted mug and then tune up with scripted meds for pain of all things. Hmmm
So far Ive been using sandable primer from a spray can. All the worked areas have about 3-4 coats sanded in between. No rings on this guys' work haha. Cant wait to get the whole car sanded, then dusted with a test spray and long boarded for the final approach. Im sure Ill have a few hundred questions about apps' with a new gun etc. Everything is now new and improved. Gotta go for now... Frozen beer mug and a 45 minute Nitro in the freezer is calling; YUMMM... Bill
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WELL LAH-TEE-DAH! Fired up the atom smasher at 0700 to get the reactor on line by 0830 so I could get something done. I needed everything done and ready for my pal Jeff to help out with the glass install. That meant finishing the headliner, finishing the windlace, get the sail panels finished and install, AND install a new trim clip set (20 in a pack with screws and I got 19!) so I had to re-use one of the best that survived from the factory. Several had to have the screw holes located and drilled from the new steel work. Then each one took a dab of polysulfide sealant on each screw for leakage prevention.
Just for an FYI, I did by a pair of the rear window trim lower corners; by the time they were trimmed to fit (poorly that is!) there wasnt anything left to use. 15.00 down the crapper.
The frame got primed and a bead of polyurethane window sealer as a base, with the glass having a 5/16 round butyl bead to set into that stuff. Shoot didnt even get to make a mess! Tomorrow I am taking the day off to clean the shop... Vas eine sheist haus. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who insist on potent tools to get their work done,
WELL LAH-TEE-DAH! Fired up the atom smasher at 0700 to get the reactor on line by 0830 so I could get something done.
. . . . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . So which type of reactor did you fire up? Did you stick to the classic fission type? or did you go with the more asseriive fusion type? or did you all out and go with the Star Trek type matter-antimatter reactor!?!!!! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin_triangle.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Not to produce conFUSION, lets just say Ive gone FISSION hahaha... carbon in the summertime with 2 big BUICK motors burnin' fuel, but all winter its strictly green with "DILITHIUM CRYSTALS Ketptain; arghhh, didja notice how beautiful they are even when they're burned and cracked?" Remember that one Ed? Bill
Eschew Obfuscation !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30oBBOnxCCI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30oBBOnxCCI)
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Since tomorrow is my turn at the doc's office for 4-5 steroid injections in the L5/S1,2,3 joints for the arthritis I had to get something done today. Took the previous 2 days off and ran Pat around for doctors stuff and a few hours blasting away at paper on the pistol range. The deal tomorrow is gonna have me sore for a few days, but wait, thats not all! In another 6 weeks, I get to get knocked out and have the nerve ends burned off; YUMM Radio Frequency Ablation.
So I got the final piece of steel put in and a quick rub with some black primer. Needs a little massage for a happy ending.
Anyhow, been looking around at real paint suppliers (drop shipping of course) and "generally" the complet BC/CC kit in the dark blue metallic is just under 300.00 including shipping. I ordered a color chip card yesterday for 5.00 which should be free, and then signed up for a painting forum. I think one of yooz guys linked it for me; Thanks! Bill
https://www.paintforcars.com/product/sapphire-blue-metallic-urethane-basecoat-clear-coat-kit-featuring-5-star-clear-coat/ (https://www.paintforcars.com/product/sapphire-blue-metallic-urethane-basecoat-clear-coat-kit-featuring-5-star-clear-coat/)
http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml (http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml)
https://shop.thecoatingstore.com/Blue-Ray-Metallic-Basecoat-Clearcoat-Car-Paint-Kit-MGCB333-BCCKIT.htm (https://shop.thecoatingstore.com/Blue-Ray-Metallic-Basecoat-Clearcoat-Car-Paint-Kit-MGCB333-BCCKIT.htm)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregiver who occasionally need some personal TLC.
Since tomorrow is my turn at the doc's office for 4-5 steroid injections in the L5/S1,2,3 joints for the arthritis I had to get something done today. Took the previous 2 days off and ran Pat around for doctors stuff and a few hours blasting away at paper on the pistol range. The deal tomorrow is gonna have me sore for a few days, but wait, thats not all! In another 6 weeks, I get to get knocked out and have the nerve ends burned off; YUMM Radio Frequency Ablation. . . . .
Best of luck on all the medical procedures for you and Pat. Pain management isn't the science that they claim and everyone has to take their lumps as best they can.
Anyhow, been looking around at real paint suppliers (drop shipping of course) and "generally" the complet BC/CC kit in the dark blue metallic is just under 300.00 including shipping. . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . Sounds like a good deal, but are you absolutely certain about the color? Wouldn't you want to consider a rich shade of 1965 Buick Seafoam Green instead? . . . . . . . . Not that I'm biased or anything!! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin_triangle.gif). . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Ed! Some of them guys are no more than voodoo doctors. Today for the four shots I took was a lidocaine shot into the nerve, then the injection into the nerve itself. "Uncomfortable" comes to mind but not as bad as the "unknown" in the first batch. Already feeling better; Im sure the double xanax at 0700 helped LOL... The next one for the burn job will be with Vers-ed. Nighty night! :sleepy2:
As of now, 1600 hrs, I feel pretty good. Maybe tomorrow, only snow blow the drive and get some bondo grinding done laying on the cement shop floor. Take it easy, ya know??
On the other issue, is there any feed back on the paint suppliers above? Anything local is at least $2X Bill :whip2:
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Bill I like the Dupont or their derivatives, but that is because I have always used their stuff and am familiar with it. I saw Eastwood would be comparable in price to the one your kit, but i don't know who is behind their line?
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Thanks Dr. Frank LOL... Ive used DuPont alpha-cryl a long time ago (lacquer) and a few big name players but the cost is a killer. Take a look at the bottom of one of those links and they say how they can beat the prices. Less ad's and non-sponsors at tracks etc.
Today Im finishing up on the DS bottom fender patch. (2x3") and getting it primed, and a few other minor spots. Its tough typing with gluvs haha! Bill
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Nason is an offset of Dupont that can be bought very reasonable compared to DuPont chromabase.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nason-2K-SelectClear-Urethane-Mulit-Panel-Clear-Kit-498-00/173680388243?hash=item2870286893:g:lAsAAOSw5ENbr8pT (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nason-2K-SelectClear-Urethane-Mulit-Panel-Clear-Kit-498-00/173680388243?hash=item2870286893:g:lAsAAOSw5ENbr8pT)
Sprays and polishes nice and can use just about any approved base color.
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Just wondering why its been kinda slow around here? I took a day off for the butt cheek shots, and had my game back on the next day. Got the driver side front fender bottom finished and in primer, and moved right along to filling the 6 holes for the venti-ports. Dont think for a second that the panel is flat; it took some doing to get it flat, and it feels good too.
Put on two heavy coats of stripper last night as I was closing up shop on the passenger side rear fender. It was almost dried up this morning, so I douched it again and it came back to life. Scraped it with the razor holder, and a scrub with lacquer thinner on a scrunge pad. It was dry within a minute so the sanding began! Only the bottom half had any work done to it, but they probably painted the whole quarter causing all the cracking in the top coat. I took it all down to steel and it was good stuff. Made the repairs to the bottom which was about 5 trips with the filler and long board to get it right. Thats all done with 3X primer.
I told Pat the job is turning out to be about a "90" right now. Its really looking good. My pal Jeff came by to help move the hood to some horses outside for sanding and "space to move". On the way off the roof, we set it in place minus the hinges and the dang thang set right into position and the latch clicked it shut. Literally a perfect fit, 455 air cleaner and all. I may hafta put a turn buckle on the port side of the motor to keep it from torquing up and hitting the hood. Exspurts???
Also got my 4.95 color ship card from a paint supplier. A tad disappointed in the brilliance, but we hafta look at them in the sun. It was dark:30 when I open it.
Hope everyone is enjoying the lunar new year today! Happy Samhain to everyone! Bill
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Its 0425hrs here and I cant wait to get sanding LOL. Im a sicko. Anyways just a few more pics. If its dry, the hood is in for a work over! If not? Its back inside with more than the lions share to do there.
I used to help out a pals dad who had a hillbilly body shop. He'd buy banged up late model stuff (bought several 70's Buick GS's from him) slap some bondo on them, paint them and then off to the Greater Dyer (Indiana) car auction. We always had several every Friday night in the caravan and usually all came home in his moms' car. Ol' GIL, could literally get a car done every day. I'm into this for at least 20-30 days now and its almost ready for primer. The guy was FAST
I guess Ill hafta cut my losses and keep the day job haha. Bill
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A torque strap is a good idea with any warmed up 455. The rubber mounts don't stand up to abuse as well as they do on a stock application. Even then, some of the Nailhead motor mounts were interlocking above and below the rubber in case it separated. I used a chain from the back of the LH head to the frame on my 67 with a 455. I put a little tension on it and never head it rattling.
Which color are you looking at Bill? The midnight blue or the other lighter blue on the card.
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Back in the day, I built an LS-7 454 with a 1050 3 barrel on a tarantula, and it went into a 68 chevelle SS396. It was an auto car and I threw a 4 speed in there. These shatheads that ask a million questions about that amuse me. I wont even go there. That one got a turn buckle from the 55-57 front chevy V8 bolt holes to the frame IIRC. That guy had 2-1/4 Hooker headers with a slip on pipe that went outside the frame rail.
I was under the impression that all FED SPECS required interlocking mounts and a cable throttle after 1966, along with dual master cylinders.
Anyways, theres a midnite blue and a dark Daytona blue on the card. I'm leaning toward the darker ones with some white sail panel "70's" custom stuff. Lace or spider webbing. We used to use the airbrush and do little starbursts, but if ya mess up its a big ol' run in a bad place. Mite do some panel stuff on the hood and trunk too. I guess it depends on my frame of mind at the time LOL... Bill
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No, my 67 still had a throttle rod for the SP trans idle switch and non-interlocking locking mounts. I think most of the 430s I have owned also did not have interlocking tabs. I used 67 mounts on the 455 in that car. I think the interlocking mounts may have started in 70 or later.
My cable set up was a racer upgrade. I got a cable set up out of another 67 A-body at the yard as my car had the SP eliminated and a 3500 stall. All the wobble and pivot points on the shaft system made me feel I could be more consistent leaving the line.
I like the shade that is just a little lighter on the card then the Midnight blue. I can't read the color.
Steve
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Just wondering why its been kinda slow around here?
. . . .
I assume it's the weather. Most folks on this board are shut down by winter. Those of us in the California at least are probably struggling with an extremely early Spring. At the moment, it looks like we are headed for a nasty drought and of course and even more vicious wildfire season. In the meantime, we have things to do in the yard because things are growing instead of being dormant. I've had to apply Round-up twice and we are still in January! It just ain't fair I tell ya'! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/rant.gif)
Also got my 4.95 color ship card from a paint supplier. A tad disappointed in the brilliance, but we hafta look at them in the sun. It was dark:30 when I open it.
Is that your only option? Perhaps you need to look for another paint supplier. After all this work, you really want BADLASS to shine! :sunny:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Color roulette anyone??? I actually have a few more cards on order. Right now Ill settle for one shade of flat black LOL...The Sapphire Blue Metallic is in the running... Bill
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Ha! I've been looking at color charts and my Trim books to try to find a color for my 68 Wildcat (currently Desert Beige, probably the ugliest color??)
I like twilight turquoise so far. It would look good in red though!
Cheers and good luck on the color selection...I think I am on Autocolorlibrary more than anything else for the last few weeks.
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Hi Bill, How about a deep Maroon. Or I see that you are partial to Blue, a midnight Blue would be cool too. I know it's not easy to choose a color. So far I chose a 2019 Buick Regal Red as the color for my GS when completed this summer.
Tony
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"The world is my palate"...Kinda got myself painted into a corner, haha... The interior is Blue and Buicks, with their understated elegance, need a regal color to set them off. I'm leaning towards the deepest darkest metallic blue I can find. Along with some brilliant white accents should really stand out.
Then theres the Skylark rocker covers. Those are finned cast aluminum typically painted black in the slots. I'm thinking about red, for the traditional GS look and a touch of patriotism too. Judges?? Finally the Skylark chrome and silver valance panel between the tail lights. Red, white, or blue on that?
Looking over things today, I noticed a little hump just above the fender repair Ive been working on. Its right where the side trim lays, and with the trim laying flat, there'd be a 1/8 gap between the two. It was a choice of pulling the fender to get at it; its just forward of the wheel lip radius, or fix it in place. It was just enough forward that I managed to get a 2x2 in there and giver' a smack with a rubber mallet. That took out 90% and the rest had to be done with filler. For the life of me, I dont know how I missed it. I'll play it off to so much dust and grit from the sanding debris, that I just didnt see it. Once discovered it looks like the grand canyon.
So thats re-done (!), and the hood is sanded and primed on the top. The underside is for tomorrow if its clear outside; to be done in satin black. Weird discovery today. The B U I C K letters on the front are held with speed nuts. The letter I has both pins busted so thats a glue on now. The rear letters are held by push pins. Hmm...
The drivers door and rear quarter need sanding and priming, then the "Big Choice" is gonna happen. This'll be the first time shooting BC/CC with an HVLP gun. I have a 2 banger electric compressor that handles air grinders and impact wrenches just fine, or, I also have an 8HP, 30 gallon V-4 Emglo horizontal unit on wheels, that hasnt been run for about 10 years. Thats an air making son of a biscuit. I really need to put a 5+ hp electric motor on it, but the gas makes it very independent of needing 220 VAC like at the boat yard or some field work.
Back at it tomorrow, provided my wood and water hold out to make steam hahaha... Bill
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JUST MADE 10,000 VIEWS!!!!not bad!
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How about Sonic Blue. It is a pearl not a metallic. I want to paint something with it one day! The Daytona Blue looks nice too. So many choices!
(http://paintref.com/mustang/2004/2004_00011_01.jpg)
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Nice blue! Right now Im having fun deciding how much hardener to put in the filler to alter the color/pot life haha. Got Pat outside at 0800hrs today to help flip the hood over. It was a little dirtier than expected. Mouse turds non extant. I gingerly removed the OEM insulation and gave it a liberal douche of satin black to hold it together for re-use and replacement maybe next year. The rest cleaned up pretty easy witha wire wheel on the air grinder. Primed and painted with a few snow flurries tossed in for flavor.
Back inside with the atom smasher going, I decided to long board the side with the least amount of work; yeah right. The drivers side is in the dark side of the shop so that a lighted examination was in order and well founded.
When I first took delivery, there had been something overhead that leaked onto the roof and drivers door. Absolutely as hard as a rock; nothing in my arsenal would touch it. If I was lucky, a decent "fleck" would pop off with the corner of a razor blade. HARD! All I could do was grind it down (it was probably .015-.020" thick) and hit it with some blue rattle can stuff I had laying around.
Thinking about the amount of work I'm into it for now, PLUS the $$$ paint and work coming up, I decided to take the area down to bare steel with paint stripper, and go from there. I had cause to examine the rear quarter as well and found a bunch of that crazing from old lacquer on the bottom half. Went after that with #60 and made it pretty fair. The original body guy at least did a smooth job with the red stuff, so that cleaned up pretty easily. At least the DS panels were pretty flat. The roof looks good except for a corner over the driver that looks like something fell on it. Small crease, but heck, we all have 'em.
Pics are of the car as delivered with hard crud, some blue paint, and the rear quarter last time it was stripped and now again today; Oh, plus the door and roof.
Tomorrow Im outa here at 0700 for a 100 mile run for sandpaper and sundries in Sheboygan. Enjoying a few bowls of home made beef stew a la Pat tonight... Good stuff Maynard! Bill
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Really Enjoying these updates and bodywork advice. Very helpful for folks like me that have desire and not enough experience.
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Thanks Don... Its all good. Never had to do this for a living, but as a rank amateur you hafta at least try it. Its really no different than building a model battleship LOL... Bill
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I just don't know how you measured that .015-.020 of crud on there Bill....I am not saying your storying us,but it looks like .0216492 thick to the naked eye. Of course I could be off .00002 give or take,Dan
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Big Dan with the micrometer eyes LOL... Whats a couple of hundred thousandths among friends? The stuff was like concrete that burned into he finish with the lime being the only residue left. Weirdest thing Ive ever seen. Paint stripper, and heat had zero effect on it. Careful razor action on the chrome handles etc. left a film that had to be polished off with a scrunge pad, which still left scratches; looked like stainless steel.
Even though it feathered in smooth, Im gonna build up the paint thickness with 2-3 coats of primer. Anyway, Im thinking about stripping the rest of the door for a good finish. I just wish Id be making forward progress instead of one step forward and 1/2 step back. I AM gonna get it but time is of the essence LOL... Bill
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Well, a day late and a dollar short LOL... Spent yesterday shopping, at it was noon before I got out to the shop. Did some sanding and called it quits. Today, Pat helped me stand the hood up on some towels and covered it with a sheet to melt and dry the miniscule amount of ice that was in there from the icing event last night.
I found it nary impossible to find fiberglass sheeting for new hood insulation. I really wanted to make my own. I glued and re-installed the freshly douched OEM insulation back in place for now; its still serviceable. Also got the cowl vent removed and stripped and re-primed. What a freaking mess! 5 inches wide and 5 feet long
Finished sanding the port side with 220 and got 2X coats of primer on it. Doctors tomorrow and then sand and prime the roof. All thats left after that is the door bottoms and rocker panels and clean and paint the frame rails and get the gas tank back in. Whew!! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s restorers,
. . . .
I found it nary impossible to find fiberglass sheeting for new hood insulation. I really wanted to make my own. I glued and re-installed the freshly douched OEM insulation back in place for now; its still serviceable. Also got the cowl vent removed and stripped and re-primed. What a freaking mess! 5 inches wide and 5 feet long
. . . .
Sorry that you couldn't find any raw material to make your own hood installation. I had thought hood insulation kits were relatively inexpensive. The best price I could come up with on a quick search is from OPGI:
https://www.opgi.com/gaskets-seals/weatherstripping-rubber-details/underhood-insulation-kit/insulation-hood-1964-67-skylark-s210016.html (https://www.opgi.com/gaskets-seals/weatherstripping-rubber-details/underhood-insulation-kit/insulation-hood-1964-67-skylark-s210016.html)
However, I thought you could do better than $40 for this item. I couldn't find anything on eBay for some reason.
As long as hood insulation is on deck I'm curious about the various aftermarket products that claim to reduce noise and heat. OPGI has this curious product:
https://www.opgi.com/gaskets-seals/weatherstripping-rubber-details/hood-insulation-shield-kits5/shield-underhood-1964-65-skylark-smooth-s240896.html (https://www.opgi.com/gaskets-seals/weatherstripping-rubber-details/hood-insulation-shield-kits5/shield-underhood-1964-65-skylark-smooth-s240896.html)
On eBay there is another product that claims to reduce noise and heat:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hood-Insulation-Pad-Cover-for-1964-65-Buick-A-Body-w-G-20052-Skylark-GS/202893269375 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hood-Insulation-Pad-Cover-for-1964-65-Buick-A-Body-w-G-20052-Skylark-GS/202893269375)
This stuff would have to be a miracle worker to be really worth around $425!!
Any thoughts gang?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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For 400.00 that stuff should cool the inside of the the car too!! Yesterday I actually got one of those spam flyers via email for a 5 pc. kit for 15.00. Not too bad thinkst I, but the shipping was 18.95 It looks like fuzzy house insulation. I need that waffle pattern pressed semi rigid stuff. I'm on a mission...
https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1964-buick-restoration-parts-hood-52755-prd1.htm (https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1964-buick-restoration-parts-hood-52755-prd1.htm)
So now I'm on a secondary bomb run due to heavy overcast LOL. Ill see a piece of that pressed yellow stuff some where, sometime and have an AH HA moment. Right now I dont even wanna post a pic of it, but it is functional; and FRIABLE. Yer gonna hafta look that one up! 'Tis what it tis'. Anyway, yesterday I managed to finish up the port side of the BADLASS in primer and then the roof. Looking forward to 3 lbs. of black dust tin the shop, then a coat of real primer, sand and maybe some paint. Getting close!
I was beginning to think the chinaman hit us with an EMP burst. No emails per se, or forum activity, and now another chinaflu outbreak. Disease is one thing them people have seemed to figger out how to send us that works good. Now Pat has no appetite and wants to eat only bloody meat and my Doc this morning said I have a "bruised" piece of rib cartilage. C-T scan probably in the next few days. Took a 3 hour nap, and now I'm ready to cut grass and fix Buicks... tomorrow :boxing: Bill
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THIS is what too much computer time does... Bill
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"Its OK General, I'll hold the island till you return..." Gen. Jonathan Wainwright upon hearing of Gen. MacArthur's orders to leave Corregidor in 1942.
Geez, I guess I should post a pic of the new stove we bought today. Easy terms from Lowes and 200.00 less than anywhere else. Its a white Frigidaire that runs on gas with 4 burners and an oven. Even has a tach, ah er rally clock with a frozen beer timer. After that we hit the big box store for some more primer and tape and other sundries.
Got home and did a little sanding, some cleaning, and got the new privacy glass installed. I hope its legal. Ill just tell the cops Im training for an instrument rating LOL. I doubt they'd appreciate my humor. :bootyshake: All thats left is the rockers and a few spots on the lower fenders. Gonna order new rugs and paint this week and pic up a quart of real primer locally.
Me being me, I had to keep the original dealer emblem when the BADLASS was delivered new. Roseland Buick was at 104th and Michigan Ave, in Chicago. Its now the heart of the dark continent of the equatorial United States. If youve ever been there, youd appreciate my humor. Anyways the dealer sticker was pretty washed out and some masking and 5 coats of clear it came back to life. Its actually kind of brilliant. I wanted to protect it from scrubbing with a squeegee at the gas pump etc. I found this from ebay today. In the grill bar is a dealers name of Bill Smith... pretty innocuous eh?
Waited all year for the big game today. Even baking a pizza for.... Puppy Bowl. I hope the Bostons' win! Bill
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Your description of Roseland is perfect! Last time I passed through there was at least 20 years ago. I heard its better now?
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Its where the high end tribes live like Pill Hill and Pullman. 30-40 years ago a pal at work inherited an entire block of Pullman Co. row houses (like the company store) at 111th and Champlain, from his grandmother who was a lifer there, and he was dreading going through the selling process. So now Pullman is an Historic Landmark and also high end and each little row house is about 2-300K. Hmmm... Now he's sitting on a few cool mills and living on a cliffside house in Hawaii.
30 years ago you didnt go out after dark LOL. Bill
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pullman,_Chicago
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OK everybody... take a deep breath! Yes, I bit the bullet this morning and ordered the paint. Going throught the stockpile here, I found a fresh gallon of dark gray primer and hardener left from my last boat job. If I had to guess it was about 300.00 for the gallon kit in 2015. Click on the link to open the PDF.
https://www.egc-coatings.com/files/20281/egc21-TDS-EN (https://www.egc-coatings.com/files/20281/egc21-TDS-EN)
I ordered the paint from these guys with the upgraded clear coat. Total for the BC/CC and all the stuff with shipping is 330.00 plus change:
https://www.paintforcars.com/product/sapphire-blue-metallic-urethane-basecoat-clear-coat-kit-featuring-5-star-clear-coat/ (https://www.paintforcars.com/product/sapphire-blue-metallic-urethane-basecoat-clear-coat-kit-featuring-5-star-clear-coat/)
Pat and I are taking off to go look at stuff to do shading work in white like some lace, or scallop shaped stuff or whatever. She's actually enthused about this job now! The BADLASS is gonna be BADASSED when this job is done (pardon the french). Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who are big fans of shine! :sunny:
OK everybody... take a deep breath! Yes, I bit the bullet this morning and ordered the paint.
Congratulations! :thumbsup:
Pat and I are taking off to go look at stuff to do shading work in white like some lace, or scallop shaped stuff or whatever. She's actually enthused about this job now! The BADLASS is gonna be BADASSED when this job is done (pardon the french). Bill
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Hey man, like I don't get it! No matter how I enter it into Google translate, I can't seem to translate that French into English!! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Like that blue! My buddies 65 post is that color! There is a picture of it in the gallery under user submitted on the first page! It is sitting next to my buddies red gs at the popular grove airport!
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Vous souhaitez des cours de m?canique fran?aise Edouard?
mauvais cul
Bill
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Like that blue! My buddies 65 post is that color! There is a picture of it in the gallery under user submitted on the first page! It is sitting next to my buddies red gs at the popular grove airport!
I couldnt find it! Can ya post a pic here for me? Is this it? I think the Dark Blue Sapphire I ordered is a tad darker. Whatcha tink eh? Is that Poplar Grove, Il.??
Thanks, Bill
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That's it! Yes Popular Grove IL! Not sure on the darkness or lightness of color!? That picture was taken on a bright day but many years ago !! The amount and grain/ size of the metallic particles does play a part in how the paint looks in my book! His car was painted 19 years ago also! I still like the way the metal floats in the old lacquer paint!
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About 20 years ago I did my '68 E225 with a BC/CC and was really impressed with some instant gratification as soon as the CC went on! That was with Spies/Hecker brand and the $$ back then killed me. I'll be rolling like a pig in mud if this one turns out as good. The '68 was bought from the original owner with 40K on it and met up with a phone pole. I bought a front clip off some guy in Hemmings (wayyy before the innerweb), and it was indeed rust free, but from a junk yard, somebody had walked all over the hood. Didnt see a lot of the dimples until the paint went on. Dang it!
I think today I'm gonna start sterilizing the operating room for surgery. Man is it ever a mess. Maybe get the gas tank back in and fire it up to pull it outside and get some clean floor space under it too. Right now its all by 5 gallon buckets of water since the frozen tundra has the garden hose frozen solid.
Giving it some thought last night, I also think the front bumper and headlight bezels are coming off too. Those were put on all cleaned up last winter (actually about 9 months ago) with cleaned and lubed fasteners, so it should be a cakewalk. A lot less masking and access to the hidden areas. Bill
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Dear Bill, Jon, and mid-60s Buick restorers, . . . . .
. . . . .
I think today I'm gonna start sterilizing the operating room for surgery.
. . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . That does sound extremely serious! I do hope you have lined up a top anesthesiologist for the procedure! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Seriously, do keep us posted! It is clear that your audience is very interested in how this paint job turns out.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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anesthesi-WHAT????? Sounds like some kinda funny business going on back there LOL!
I am a DIY guy. I just huff the stuff outa the can LOL...WHEW !! Did some experimenting with my new found primer on some basic enamel, and no "hot thinner" reactions, so I think I'm good to go on that. The pic with the yellow circle is the hot primer on rustoleum stuff. Also played around "amateurishly" with some special effects. I'm a fatalist haha.
Just wanted to show Pat the general concept. She was in AWE! The cup 'n brush is the primer after 6 hours. Didnt even need induction time; mix and go!
The el- cheapo furnace filter is a few days worth of work. Tomorrow Im ready to start wet sanding. Being cheap myself, Im re-using 220 discs of the DA dunked in water.
Another experiment provided sustainability in warm water. Ill bet 1 or 2 pcs. will do the whole car. Enthusiasm is "HIGH". :blob7:
Got the new rugs today and unrolled them so they can relax. Maybe theyll go in tomorrow. Gotta pull all 4 seat bolts (all cleaned and oiled last winter!!) and toss the bench in the other shop for "cold" storage"! The rugs come with a welted sewn edge at about 64 inches wide. The floor is 60: so theres plenty to play with for a nice trim! Bill
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Annudder one just to ad some pics. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners,
Annudder one just to ad some pics.
Wow, that's a pithy shirt you've got there! That's almost too true to be funny!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Sometimes the truth hurts, ya know? Once in a while the fix is staring the mechanic right in the eye and a field repair makes it whole. Hmmm.
So we are in the last furlong before the wet sanding for the real primer. Got the gas tank back in and all hooked up. Everything I did last year was super cleaned and oiled so it all comes apart or goes back together with the least amount of effort. Nothing worse than Wrastlin' rusty bolts. Put some air in the air shocks and then made a corporate decision. Buy low and sell high.
Decided to pull the headlamp bezels as I knew the fender/core support juncture was a rusty (more dirt) area. While I was in there (haha) I decided to pull the bumper to get a good clean surface just behind the edge of the bumper. It was a breeze. The rear bumper has been under the car all winter and I knew it needed attention. The exhaust fumes from idling around town ate the chrome on the bottom right corner. The inside of the bumper was pretty raunchy looking, so it all got cleaned up, primed and painted with chrome aluminum paint. Its only forestalling the rest. The bottom right corner got the flapper wheel and grinder treatment, finished off with a soft edge, silver paint and some clear. Mike (Trunk Monkey) this is why Im gonna need your re-chrome unit. I havent forgot about it AT ALL!!!
So tomorrow is the wet sanding day, and then roll the car outside for a thorough blow down of the entire shop. Its a total dusty mess. Thats gonna give it a day to settle out before a tack job and primer spray. The worst of the messy work is over, I hope! Bill
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Saw this one from across the hall..Bill
https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/d/grawn-1964-buick-skylark-special/7071399288.html
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Just thought I was gonna get to do some wet sanding today, and ended up doing some more fine tuning on prep work. Last year while assembling the rough car, I concentrate on the drivetrain. So now I needed to get the cowl painted (changed the color motife) and also repainted inside the cowl by the wipers arms. Also cut in with some primer on the front fenderwells to the fenders. Gonna emulate the OEM paint job so the judges dont hang me LOL. The grand finale' was a nice alignment on the front pass. side fender. It was about 1/8" too low. Its nice now and the cowl even lines up better.
One of the guys across the hall is sending me his used blue floormats for shipping! Well worn, but heck, so am I.
The yellow outline shows a "trial sanding" area. Thats with a gently worn piece of 220 dry. Man does it feel smooth!!
I think the last biggy tomorrow is gonna be to prep the doors and jambs. Might as well paint them while I'm at it. They dont look too bad, but all need to match. The worst part of that is all the masking the inside door panels, and putting up a barrier for the interior.
Whew! Also 5-8 inches of wet snow due here overnight. Yumpin' Yiminy!! Bill
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Just passing this along... all kinds of nailhead parts, motor mounts etc etc... all priced as is or best offer. TONS OF GOODIES!!! Bill
https://www.ebay.com/str/bestoffercountsbuickparts?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 (https://www.ebay.com/str/bestoffercountsbuickparts?_trksid=p2047675.l2563)
Are these correct for the '64 as well???
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Skylark-Special-Sportwagon-GS-Front-Bumper-Filler-Pair-Rubber-Top-65/332373476023 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Skylark-Special-Sportwagon-GS-Front-Bumper-Filler-Pair-Rubber-Top-65/332373476023)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick parts hounds,
. . . .
Are these correct for the '64 as well???
[url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Skylark-Special-Sportwagon-GS-Front-Bumper-Filler-Pair-Rubber-Top-65/332373476023[/url] ([url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Skylark-Special-Sportwagon-GS-Front-Bumper-Filler-Pair-Rubber-Top-65/332373476023[/url])
Unfortunately, I don't know if they are also correct for 1964 Buicks. Hopefully someone else does have the answer. What I can tell you is that it appears to be the same reproduction that CARS (Old Buick Parts) is selling:
http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=8772 (http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=8772)
It is substantially less expensive at CARS but the shipping would probably eat that up unless you needed enough other things to make it worthwhile.
You can also buy it on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Special-Skylark-GS-Front-Bumper-Fillers-OEM-1369976-FF65/172268634472?fits=Year%3A1965%7CModel%3ASkylark&hash=item281c02c168:g:fIgAAOSw14xWQfYQ (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Special-Skylark-GS-Front-Bumper-Fillers-OEM-1369976-FF65/172268634472?fits=Year%3A1965%7CModel%3ASkylark&hash=item281c02c168:g:fIgAAOSw14xWQfYQ)
The price ends up being just about the same but you would save 50 cents with Best Offer Counts.
I hope you had a productive day in the shop!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I hope we get some definitive answers on these Ed... Im figuring the seller is best offer with free shipping, as soon as I get some info, Im gonna hit the guy with 15.00. I have a pair of something, but they may be the rears. Next time I see them, Ill shoot a pic. Theyre packed with overspray from before; NFG for this rodeo.
The weather man has ben barking about 4-6 inches of snow for today. I was gonna finish up in the shop and run the blower. Pat came out and said to take a look. I was masking the DS door and jamb. I got up to take a look outside and theres a foot of shushing stuff on the ground and giant flakes falling straight down with no breeze. We are a block off the lake, so anything is possible around here. Its still coming down pretty good; I already made 3 passes on the drive with "GOT SNOW" and will do it again after it stops.
Got that driver side primered and it looks pretty good. Of course with the attention to detail... Bill
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I dont know If I posted this, but the Model A Foird Club of Greater Milwaukee is holding their midwinter swap meet on Feb 23 at the West Bend fairgrounds. Doors open at 0800hrs. Jeff and I are splitting a 40.00 table and get in at 0600. Im taking a lot of take offs from the V6 and the '72. Cheap, cheap, cheap!!! Stop by and say howdy... Bill
https://www.wichaptermafca.com/swap-meet (https://www.wichaptermafca.com/swap-meet)
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The bumper wedge cushions are 65 only! I don’t believe 64 used them on the front!
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AH HA!!! The one(s?) I have must be rears. Just curious as the front bumper (its off the car for the paint) has rubbed the OEM paint through on the passenger side at the top. I know the bumper favors that side by about 3/16 " so I need to pre-oil (!) and loosen the lateral bolts on the bracket before it goes back on; after the paint of course! Thanks Pal!! Bill
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Hi Bill.
Looking gooder every day. (and the car is coming along nicely, too)
I have those pics, just need to figure where they got lost on my computer during a swap to a new one.
I'll post them today.
:)
Michael
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Thanks Mike! Honest to gosh, I'm trying my best on this one! Getting closer everyday now. I actually started at 0900 today and got the entire car (minus the hood which had a foot of snow on it!) dry sanded with 2 pieces of 220 paper each one glued to a sanding sponge about 3x5 inches.Fore and aft, up and down, then at a 45* angle L AND R!
Now for the disclaimer. Sanding BLACK primer all day you can imagine what I looked like.
So I brought in TWO washing machine loads of cut up towels to get washed, plus todays clothes. I used to work at a coal fired power plant for 30 years and this brought back some memories! Tomorrow is the nerve doctor in the afternoon, so Im taking the day off. Maybe get some primer on Friday. Bill
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When you blow yer nose, does it look like a mini Buick burnout on the hanky? (http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2017/03/24/20170324155511-4e3c4727.gif)
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More like chunks of rubber on the fender from a smokey burnout in the water box LOL...
I used to work with an old Polish guy when we'd do coal plant work. Always "fugitive" dust in the air. We'd get out of the area and blow our noses and this guy would say with his heavy accent, much like a toast of nostrovia, BUGARZUPONYA! Yeah, not to sound weird, but I always snort a little water in the shower, and when I get out have a paper towel at the ready; Bugarzuponya !! LOL. Key, its the love of the sport aint it?
I got my new paint kit with all the stuff and it included a 99 cent paper mask. WOW. I pulled out all the old 3M NIOSH rated PPGs from work (personal protective gear) so I dont hafta eat that paint for lunch. Spray bombs and sanding are one thing, but an atmosphere full?? No way!
So got that whole bastard done with two lousy used DA discs (220) and it is Sah-Moothe. 2 heavy coats of the dark gray 2X primer and another wet sand with 400 or 600 and its gonna be a work of art... I hope! PM sent back to ya. Bill
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I love good lace work. Can't wait to see it when it's done!
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Aw... youre just showing your feminine side. Well pal, me too. It reminds me of when women dressed like women; today its all grunge with muffin tops! Bill
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Yeah, girls what look like a can of "whump biskits" that seen the edge of a kitchen counter...
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Yeah, I gotta admit, most of the girls up here (farm girls) look like theyre corn fed or rooters ( for the un-informed, PIGS root for truffles LOL!). The shallow gene pool doesnt help either.
I cant believe I'm still fine tuning the body work. Today I got the hood sanded, and everything wiped down, and now, even with a non color (black primer) I'm seeing several miniscule stone chips and the like, so those got tended to with a Q tip sized touch of spot glaze. Am I getting carried away, or am I being anal? I sure hope the paint job looks as good as the bodywork.
Gotta change snow blower belts tomorrow, so it may be Sunday for the initial real primer job. Hardened gray primer, 2 coats, and then a wet sand with 400 or 600. I'm trying to get an idea of the lace layout, and had a brain fart. I have a bunch of aluminum diagonal louvered vents from an old boat demolition job. They are about 10 X 18 inches and "may" get incorporated on the hood. Blue, Black, or White (to match the lace?) with polished stainless #8 oval head phillips head screws. Gotta toy with that idea--- non functional ram air LOL.
Played with the new 15.00 HVLP primer gun from harbor fright today. Upon assembly, all the internals were oiled with something like 3 in 1 oil. A major part of the instruction dictate DISASSEMBLE and thoroughly clean before use. OK. Need a really thin (.135") wrench for the tip. I had to grind a grinder wrench down and it fits like a dream. I go to unscrew the tip and the bastard is way tite. Hmmm. Get it broken free and come to find its got locktite on it. I think it was made to toss in the shitcan when done instead of cleaning it. Chinapsychology. Got the regulator hooked up and with just air, seems to function pretty well. Now I can wash the heck outa that before a trial Sunday. Getting excited/nervous haha...
Also played restorator with the mats that Electra Bob was good enough to supply.A quick wipe down with PB blaster, and a patch from a heel hole, and a minor trim in a bad area, and they are good for another 50 years. Thanks Bob!! Bill
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Bill , I'm amazed at how fast your getting your car done . Its looking good .
Kinda wish you could slow it down a bit though , Ive had mine 5 years now and aint nearly as far as you are . :dontknow:
Keep up the good work ! your restoration thread is good for me , its like reading the morning paper . :sunny:
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Pat's really doing all the work, while Bill sits on his butt posting with one hand, and a whip in the other... :whip2:
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Now c'mon Mike, ya know thats not true; I hafta use two index fingers to type with! But I can supervise with a cup of coffee on my bench LOL... That CAPS key is what gets me everytime tho... :thumbsup:
This morning my pal Jeff came over. I call him the "Lawnmower Man". He likes flipping mowers haha, but he's good with that stuff, and today he showed me how to split my snowblower in half to change the belts. I hate small engine stuff! He's a whiz with it. We were done in a half an hour. Even took it for a spin. WHEW! We are supposed to get some snow here in the next few days, and Monday Im having a Lumbar Branch RFA done. Thats a Radio Frequency Ablation. A nerve burn. Sounds like a good time for me. Ill get knocked out and probably implanted with ANOTHER GPS tracking chip. Those doctors deny that stuff but they are all in cahoots with medicare. Get arrested now for something stupid and they get your fingerprints AND a DNA sample. OK, Rant Over!
Got out to the shop and did some clean up work and brain storming. Up until a month or so ago, I thought I was going to hafta cut a hole in the hood for carb clearance and make up a cowl induction hood. A trial fit up proved that unnecessary, but that flat hood is a bit un-imposing and I think I'd still like to go with some contemporary 60's vintage deal on top.
About 15 years ago, I was out boat junking. Just like going to the junk yard, but hit all the boats on death row. Always looking for spare hardware for my Roamer etc. and came across a big boat with a ton of these vents. Whats even better is they came off a 1964 46 foot Pacemaker yacht. Give me a ladder and a screw driver in a boat yard and Ill have a field day!!
Ive got about 10 of these vents. So I just tossed a few on the hood for looks, and I kind of like the idea. Of course the would be fastened with stainless oval head phillips screws, and incorporated into the paint job. They may be blue or white. Thats TBD. You sure wont see many of these floating (!) around car shows. Hmmm. Tomorrow Ill see if I can get them fitted, wash the car down and tack it with some solvent and get some primer on it. That would be swell, then recoop after the back job for a few days before sanding the 100% cured primer.
Im glad you guys like reading this stuff. Are you sure its like the morning paper or the Sunday funnies?? You see, thats why I dont mind working alone. I get stuff done. I'm long winded and could just as easily sit around and shoot the shit all day. I used to work weekends all winter on my boat like that, but this is in the back yard and not a 40 mile drive each way. Enjoy some pics...I know the last one is TOO MANY! Bill
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Its 0745 and Im going in.... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers you need some TLC from time to time,
. . . . .
Monday Im having a Lumbar Branch RFA done. Thats a Radio Frequency Ablation. A nerve burn.
Best of luck with these procedure. One member of our family is also going through this sort of thing with mixed results.
. . . .
I came across a big boat with a ton of these vents. Whats even better is they came off a 1964 46 foot Pacemaker yacht.
. . . .
So I just tossed a few on the hood for looks, and I kind of like the idea.
. . . .
Okay, I like the look as well, but are you bold enough to make the functional? I'm not entirely sure, but I strongly suspect that Biquette's engine bay is too hot and she really needs a cold air intake. These engine bays were really designed for a 300 cid V-8 max. Even the Nailhead wasn't part of the original design. Most of us are putting a much larger "heater" than Buick engineers were expecting.
So what does your scheme mind think about that? :idea1:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Strange you should mention that Ed. Thats venturing into the unknown. This next year will be the first with a hood ON. Hmmm... The louvers will be a breeze to lift off and make some hole saw cuts under each one. That gets into the insulation and weather "could" become a factor. Gonna wing that one.
Tomorrow theyre doing that nerve burn. If that doesnt work out, the next step is to install a turnbuckle and jack the L5/S1 joints apart. Gonna get some butt cheek cortisone shots too in the Piriformis muscle. My ass is killing me. Especially after today!
Started early to get something done today. Had to don the Mystic secret order of moronic painters lodge garb (the apron!) to prevent belt buckle-itis.That garage gets smaller every time I turn around LOL...
Drilled the holes for the hood vents, cleaned the furnace filter outside did some more masking and then wiped the ENTIRE car down with a hot damp towel. After that was dry, I hit it with a solvent tack; that was bad. Went to mineral spirits and the same deal. My paint test last week didnt even hint of an issue but today made a minor mess. Had to lightly sand a few test spots, and then continued with the warm water. It was super clean. No black stuff on the rag whatsoever. The primer said it will cover anything (enamel, lacquer etc...) so I started to lay it on.
Got a batch of paint mixed up and started on the hood. The GD air compressor in the other shop had ice in the hose to shop "B". I ended up using an antique compressor for the rest of the job. It only shuts off by the switch. When not using air the safety blows and thats my clue. So I painted for about 3 hours. The hardener ratio was off (as per the instructions), several times I had to stop and clean the gun strainer. The paint was jelling after an hour. Continued on and got almost 3 FULL wet juicy coats of primer on the whole schlemiel.
First time with an HVLP gun. I could barely see the paint coming out. The old suction cup guns had a steady cloud inside all day. This was still bad enough, but manageable. Sure does take some getting used to tho. Now I understand the technique for the color with the expensive gun. This was the 9.00 harbor fright unit and still performed well, except for the paint jelling. That caught me off guard.
By the time the gun was completely cleaned, the car was bone dry. Heat was holding around 75F with out the furnace running for the last few hours. I think the compressor helped keep the temp up. Wrapped up and turned out the lights at about 1530 hrs. Dang full day. Next step is wet sanding, then some color. Cant wait! Bill
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Still amazed at the tin knocking I did. Im gonna give it a 97; good rhythm and easy to dance to (American Bandstand!). These are just for comparison... Bill
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That looks like a car Bill,
I like the two part primer,but do yourself a favor before wet sanding. Take a block or paint stick and knock the initial surface off with 180 or 150 just to cut through the outer skin. Let it dry overnight before doing your final sand(I would use 320 if wet sanding). That stuff is tough and sands hard so it is not easy to sand through. You really are not cutting it at all with the 400 paper,just smoothing the scratches. The 150 grit actually trues the surface as you are blocking,whereas the 400 or 320 just removes the coarser scratches. We used to have to get it down to 600 grit to do enamel,but the 320 works great on urethane materials and allows them to grab the scratches for better adhesion. You?ll have plenty of time to wet sand after the clear dries,you do not need to waste a whole day trying to smooth up that tough primer with fine paper. That stuff is so hard that I sometimes start with 80 grit and work my way down to 320 on a repair area,but your past all that so I would go with 150/180. Dan
PS...use a REAL paint mask when using any catalyzed materials,especially that urethane clear. You don?t want to learn that lesson the hard way
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I like that idea! Right now with overspray etc. its not nearly as smooth as Id like to see. I did double up on the corners and edges to prevent sand-through. If I see Im getting close I stop. My next concern is the 50% overlap to prevent tiger stripes. This primer took about 1-1/2 quarts. I hope the BC takes the same. Hate to run out half way through... Bill
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I know what you mean as far as that base coat coverage. Some colors come right in with a couple coats and some are more transparent. If you think it may be an issue,you could always hit a local body shop and tell them what you?re doing. Maybe they would have some dark blue base wasting away on the shelf. One decent coat of any dark blue would help. I have not had any issue spraying base over base using R-M,PPG,Omni,autocolor,matrix,Sherwin Williams,etc....as long as it is a base-clear,and not lacquer or enamel. It sometimes helps to get two decent coats on and just reduce it a bit more,turn up the pressure a bit,and go crazy with different patterns to straighten out your metallic and avoid that tiger striping. You got all the work done now,so if you are not totally happy with the way the base has covered just stop until you are. I think that color will come in quickly over gray,and you also can reduce that primer and just spray a little over any sand through areas(probably not necessary if you get it down to 320-400). That metal will probably have to be 65-70 degrees so it will take the night before you spray to get it there. Read the clear coat directions and let us know how it goes. If you put your finger on a masked area and it does not stick or string,it may have to wait a bit before next coat. If it gets too wet....it will take off on you. Dan
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I was thinking again(It happens)
I also think you should paint whole car,shut doors,trunk,etc...clear outside of car until you are happy with coats/coverage. Let dry for an hour,then clear trunk,jambs,under hood.....because that clear overspray will be wet sanded off and your jambs will be clean with no tapelines or overspray to mess with. It?s been awhile since I bit off a large project so I had to at least mention it. So EVERYTHING is covered with the blue base,but the clear in jamb areas is the last to be covered. You may think it looks a little crappy with the overspray on the body,but don?t worry about that....it all gets smoothed up before polish and looks like it was never painted.
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Thanks for that Dan! Thats thinking outside the box; I like that! Its like masking for a white strip on a black car; after its masked, paint the stripe black first. That will seal the edge with the cars color and not have any white bleeds under the tape. Theres only one issue Ive encountered so far and thats the very upper door corner rubber weather stripping ribbing on the primer by 1/2" or so. I may have to pull that down with a strip of duct tape! Of course the primer hadnt cured yet either, but still... The only foo-foo on the whole job that Ive seen. My eyeballs were pretty blurry by the time I came up for air haha.
So the procedure went well yesterday. The worst part was nothing to eat after 6 p.m. the night before and the procedure didnt go off until 3 p.m. yesterday. That twilight anesthesia is the best thing since they put Coke in Bottles LOL. I was awake and ready to leave in 10 minutes. It was 45 minutes before all the liability BS was over tho.. I was up at 0300 and feeling GRRREAT this morning. Gotta go run the blower this morning before going out to sand that primer! Bill
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Well, Bill. In spite of all the hard work Pat has put into this car while you sat in the chair, watching and telling tall tales on the interwebs, I think the door jamb shows that you should just scrap the whole project and take up eating paste and licking windows.
Such a sad end.
:evil6:
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Just keep the tongue off of aluminum flag poles when is zero F outside LOL. Bill
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Well; got outside this morning after running the snowblower just to putz around. I feel like a brazillion after that procedure yesterday. Thought I'd try a little ruffing in on the sanding job. Loaded up the long board with some fresh 120 to gingerly rub the overspray off. Turns out it was too aggressive. It went through the edges and a few other spots before I stopped. Actually I was more concerned about scratches showing through.
I was going to step that up to 320, but alas, I'm out of the in-between stuff. Being the cheap azz that I am, I rarely throw any old sandpaper away, so I grabbed a well used piece of 220 and glued it to my sanding sponge. That along with a free hand piece for the edges and tight spots and we were off to the races.
The overspray was as rough as 150 paper. Nothing like sanding sandpaper with sandpaper LOL. A quick swipe with the sponge reduced that immediately something that resembled a primer coat. Working in a 3 foot long stride, I was back and forth a dozen times and L&R at at a 45* angle, then finished off with a broad circular motion. Wiped down with a dry towel it was impressively smooth. Even Stevie Wonder could feel the wide range of textures. Any spot I happened to miss was not only evident to see, but the towel trick pinpointed it. I got the entire job done in about 3 hours. The worst one was doing the cowl vent. That was pretty tedious. I think the next step is going to be at 400 with water. Judges??
Theres a few rub throughs that Im not going to bother with primer on. You can see them, but you cant feel them. Im pretty confident that the BC will cover them with no problem. Thoughts on that please! So I'm off to the gas chamber to make some mud in the tub LOL. Now I know why most real body men are alkies!
Tune in for more adventures tomorrow! Bill in dusty Two Rivers.
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I would take the time to re-prime the rub-thoughts. How long would it take compared to repairing the area if the base coat lifts in those areas?
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I was curious as to the primer base....Did it sand hard and create a dusty panel or was it clogging up the sandpaper? I would guess it would be fine for a final 320 or 400 as long as it is hard as it should be. I might even suggest you put two coats of blue on all of it,then take a day break. Go back in a day or so, take an air hose and a green scotchbrite pad (you can buy em at Home Depot cheaper than the paint store) and gently clean whole car with a light palm wet sand motion(dry at this point)on the scotch pad. You are just cleaning the surface for a final light two coats of reduced color.....Then clear the color. This puts a gap in your job to get silly inspecting for anything you are not happy with. It also allows you to be sure your material is adequate to complete the project. Lastly,it gives you a time to clean again before clearing,with less actual blowing of fumes around in the space from color to finish. Good bodywork does not create allkies.....alkies just have to be good at something or they get dry. Sorta chicken-egg kinda stuff.
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...Good bodywork does not create allkies.....alkies just have to be good at something or they get dry...
Wait... I always thought, all painters were alkies... (http://www.wootmonkey.com/upload/2020/02/18/20200218233402-bb021924.gif)
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I can mix up a small batch of primer to hit those spots; I hafta paint the louvers anyway! The stuff sanded like a dream... one or two swipes and all the overspray was gone, and an additional little muscle work it was smooth as can be. ZERO orange peel or other issues. Two 5" well used 220 discs did the whole car by hand. Car, hood, trunk, roof, and door jambs inner and outers. No paper cloggage at all.
I hafta get a handle on the dust today to see what I have. I am hoping a wet sand with 400 is gonna do the trick. Im in for the long haul on this job, but doing a show quality paint job is beginning to not be so much fun anymore. Gotta stick with it to see it through! Bill
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What a hand I was dealt... FOUR KINGS! Yesterday I had a bad mix and the stuff went off as it was airborn. That and it was light on the thinner. Thats the reason for the excess overspray. Hmmm... Need new quadrafocals for the ratio cup! Yeah, the stars aligned today; the 9.99 gun, compressor, and the mix/applicator all got on the same page. I was hesitant to go over the bare spots, but had this thing going and I felt like Leonardo Da Vinci. Aside from the hassle of having to THOROUGHLY clean the gun when finished (way more complicated than a syphon gun), it was a breeze. I figured out the plug and play and throw away mentality. Every connection, all requiring chinawrenches had locktite on everything. Nice. Wiped the entire car down with a wet towel in water. The heats on and the cieling fan in the rafters moves a lot of air. It was drying right behind me.
Spent a few hours cleaning the louvers. Really hard marine epoxy paint that's 40 years old was a botch! Sanding got me barely anywhere, stripper laughed at it, so out came the propane torch and stainless wire toothbrush. They both look swell. In primer even better.
I impressed myself with the way the stuff turned out. Now confidence is building. The chinainstruction book sucked. Thats now in the garbage can. "You makee refty roosy. lighty tighty" didnt get it. I have now reaquired the Pacific Rim. Tomorrow I'm gonna clean the shop and try some wet sanding with 400. If I can get a handle on that (haha), I'll get some color going.
Big swap meet this Sunday at West bend Wi. Be there at 0800!! Bill
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I HATE you guys. I sanded that bastard again today with the same single piece of worn out 220 and the sponge with another worn out 220 and think it turned out good. I used a stepladder instead of the milk crate to reach the roof. I can sand 60% from each side, but the primer still left a tiger stripe up the middle.
I hope the color and clear wont do this! What I've seen and read about says to get the color on, and then give it a dust coat to blend it all in. Is the clear when thinned gonna self level/blend at the seam? The boat paint Ive used (AwlGrip and Interthane plus) is pretty hot stuff. Ive had the happenstance(!) to slap on some paint and have a drop come of the brush and land on fresh wet paint, and it immediately absorbed itself. It was literally invisible. So when I clear the roof, should I do the whole roof and try to keep a wet edge? At least thats flat and horizontal, then blend in at the quarter panels? I need some advice please.
"Hey Faddah, can ya help an old altar boy?..." A scene from the Exorcist; remember that one? That movie scared the crap outa me when I was 17; now its almost campy/comedy.
Got the louvers sanded and they look perfect. That primer is actually nice and sandable, yet hard as nails. Dries to touch in about 2-3 minutes. So far, Ive use about 1-1/2 quarts out of the gallon can. It goes a Longgg way for sure.
Had the .45 ACP in the shop today, just goofing around. The TRUNK MONKEY showed himself and he's whats' for dinner tonight. I fixed his scratch marks when he was on the way down. Hahaha Mike!!
So all in all, I think the primers' ready for some wet sanding now. Just water or add a few drops of dish soap to the bucket? While doing the roof today with no gloves, I touched the roof to steady myself on the ladder. Went to wipe the car down with a damp towel and there was that one fingerprint, bigger than sheist. Its gone, but I was surprised as dry as my hands were from sanding all morning. Next time Im gonna use some spray glue on my Boston Terriers' feet and stick some 220 on their paws. Ill let them handle the sanding LOL. I havent had to use a nail clipper for 2 months now; WHEW!
Got the chinagun cleaning down to about 15 minutes. I dont recall if I mentioned it, but all the nozzles and pieces were done with locktite. Youd have to scramble for special wrenches to dis-assemble it to clean it while the paint is going off in the orifices. Much easier to just toss the 9.99 gun. Not me pal(s). I'm one up on Wun Fun Gun this time. Darn Chinks! Bill
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:tongue3:
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Dear Bill, Michael, and 65GS.com "observers" . . . . .
I HATE you guys. . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . What in the name of heaven for?
After all, . . . . to quote Jerome K. Jerome:
I like work; it fascinates me. I can sit and look at it for hours (https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/jerome_k_jerome_137070). . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Seriously, you are making the climb of the automotive finish learning curve. Some of it is recalling the past and some of it is getting used to the new technology. However, BADLASS is already looking really nice at this early stage of the work. So at the end of the day grab yourself a cold one and give yourself a well deserved pat on the back! :icon_thumright:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Bill, As Edouard said "you deserve a cold one and a pat on the back" for your daily posts on your ongoing project. Most of us in the rust belt states have put away our Buick's & restoration projects for the long winter. But like that energizer bunny you keep on working in your heated garage making at least me envious of all the work you have done.. Keep up the great work ! We are all watching you... And please do have a cold one :occasion14:
Thanks. :thumbsup:
Tony
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I opened a cold one today; a 12 oz. Coke in a plastic bottle and it immediately became ice. I was dying of thirst painting too... I actually went inside and grabbed a water;yuck! Fish do bad things in that stuff LOL :sad4:
Im not afraid of work. I'll lay down right beside it!
Thanks for that vote of confidence Tony! There's not much else to do all winter long except watch TV and get fatter. Summertime is when the finished stuff comes out and gets driven. As you can tell, Im out there almost daily. Pats grounded from the shop. She's an ex smoker and has COPD. The smoke, dust and fumes out there tear her up. Just me and my google radio. I play some weird music all day, and unless Achmed calls from Bopal for boner meds, I get to work undisturbed. WTF... I'm already disturbed LOL...
I need to get this guy done so I can swing onto some boat work. Our summer only lasts about 5 weeks up here, so ya hafta take advantage of that window. Maybe next year I'll convert an old Greyhound bus into a camper with room for the BADLASS and the shovelhead and 3 dogs so we can take a vacation. Just killed off a big bowl of homemade Goulash and garlic bread. Ready for round 2 haha. Na.. this fight is gonna be a decision. Im done for the day. Tomorrow is Dustless Friday. Wet sanding and a damp towel. You all know where this is heading right??
So at the end of the day grab yourself a cold one and give yourself a well deserved pat on the back!
Hey Ed... I'll take a PAT on the front anyday hahaha... Bill
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https://youtu.be/Ti38LFY7x1Y
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So I tried an experimental wet sanding patch. 400, 320, and 800. Would you believe the 400 gave better/faster results? Nice flat spot on the hood. You can still see the 400 sanding pattern, but man is it smooth! Bill
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Back in the darkroom; these wire photos' just in... Aside from both hands finally giving out last night from the rheumatoid arthritis, I kinda had to take it easy today. Got a brace on my left wrist, so that had to stay dry. The patch on the hood was about 10 minutes worth of 400 wet on a sanding sponge. It took longer than expected, but then I tried 300 next to it and after 10 minutes I could still see the spray pattern in the finish. I cant see the whole car getting done using fingertips. Is there another trick I dont know about? Years ago I had a 1/4 sheet air powered jitterbug that I wished I had now.
The passenger side "C" pillar also looked good. I didnt do the sail panel, just the area next to the glass. Its hard to show result with pics; how far should I go?? I can get 3230 paper for the 5" DA. Should I knock it down with that first, staying away from the damn edges?? I am just wondering how much "texture" is gonna show through the BC/CC...
Got the new "better" gun apart and cleaned. Dang near the same chinastructions as the 9.99 gun, but the quality actually looks better. We'll see how that plays out after some more sanding haha... Already need a fingernail transplant. Bill
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Thing I found out about sanding is it is a "nuanced dance" with paper type, grit, the medium being sanded and a variable you only find out in the process. (but you already knew all of that).
The sanding paper will either block up, (and might as well be sanding with $20 bills), or cut too much, leaving scratches, and either re-spraying, or chasing with the next lighter paper.
You know you have to find the best paper, wet/dry, pressure and how far you can go before tossing that rag on the ground, matched to the surface/medium you have laid down, is the "formula", and it is almost always a whole new gig, with a new type of materials and tools/conditions your working with.
You and I, know, it's how it is. No surprises, but perseverance and being an anal type personality, your gonna prevail in the end.
And still, some snot nosed punk will never realize the craftsmanship and dedication to craft, that went into the thing. But you know, and some old shit will walk up, look at your ride, glance at you, and you will know, he knows.'
And, that is enough.
Keep on, keepin' on...
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Thanks for that MIKE! I guess I just havent picked up the rhythm of the dance yet LOL. I just look at 15 minutes worth of a 2x2 section on the hood and turn around and look at the whole car and think to myself WTF. I am however beginning to grasp why guys are getting 10-15K for a paint job! Even more so with a decent trunk monkey habitat (! LOL) and a headliner. In boiler parlance, my waterglass is empty and there's a raging fire in the firebox. Neither is good and BOTH are catastrophic!
I guess the objective here is not to face the big job, just one panel at a time, right? I was getting used to zipping around the car in 3 hours and calling it done. This aspect is gonna be more like 3 days. Grin and bear it right? I think Sunday on the way home from the swap meet, Im gonna stop and pick up a new jitterbug from HF. Plug, play and toss for 20.00. Its gonna save my hands I hope. Them paws are killing me! Bill
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Kinda weird, but at Crack auto today i was looking at wet paper and they ranged from 180 to 320. Im looking for about 280. That should give me easy results. I did the whole roof today with 320 and a few spots were a little ruff yet. Gonna try the jitterbug (wet) and see what the 320 does. I just didnt have any chutzpah left in my arms yet. Still recovering.
So I just found myself running the mouse on the desktop in little circles. Hmm. Need a shrink next LOL...
So the final got wiped with a damp towel, then rinsed and wrung, and wiped again. A damp paper towel finished it off before a blow dry from the furnace above. What should I use for tack wipe? 2X primer reducer, or mineral spirits? Bill
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Hi Bill, You should find out from the company that you purchased the paint from what to use. Whenever I have a paint question I try to pull up the Tech-Data sheets from the company on the internet. Look on the can or bottle it may tell you the website address to get more info. If not wait till Monday and call the company OR call an auto body supply shop near you.
I use a panel prep from PPG called Acryli-Clean DX-330 before I paint. I use it to clean off any wax, grease or finger prints that I may have left.
Don't use Mineral Spirits it has a oily residue that will make a mess out of your hard work. It's good for cleaning paint brushes, de-greasing parts and cleaning tar from rims. Otherwise keep it far away from expensive auto body paints & primers. You have gotten this far without any major problems, find out before you base coat.. :thumbsup:
Tony
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Thats great advice Tony! Thanks!! I couldnt believe that a small fingerprint or even an "arm rest" would leave a smudge that an aggressive rub with a hot towel would not clear. I just didnt want to use anything that would compromise the primer. Going to a big swap meet today and there generally a few paint guys there. Im sure I can find a comparable prep wash along with a better choice of wet paper. I really am leaning towards 280 to get the primer flat and possibly 320 or 400 to get it smooth.
Hopefully a jitterbug will aid in the hands from getting wrecked. That Rheumatoid arthritis really nailed me for the last few days. The RA is weird; I can do stuff all day with out any problems, than reach for a screwdriver in the box and BAMM! I'm done for. Its like a shot of 3 phase 480V volt juice for a split second, and hopefully nothing critical in that hand to drop and bust! That dang brace is a lifesaver but takes up a lot of room LOL...Its like going from sandals to lace up work boots. Bill
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Bill, Be sure your paint area is clean and free of anything that could be kicked up or blown around and wind up floating into your paint before the final steps. I have always used Prep-Sol to remove wax, grease, etc before painting parts, panels, cars. A lint free rag is soaked in cleaner and wiped on the surface. A dry lint free rag follows in the the other hand to wipe off the solvent before it dries. Then tack cloth the entire object to be painted and hit it with your paint!
I have also found I like the lint free rags when wet sanding. A cloth in a 5 gallon bucket of water will last for days! The cloth is wrung out after after sanding and wiped over the area. This cleans the area and will clue you in as to weather the surface is ready for paint.
Most BC/CC paints are used with a final sanding in 320 before BC, but check the directions for your paint. The paint needs the fine scratches to anchor and will flatten above them. A mirror surface is not what you are after: runs and lifting can occur.
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Hey Dr. Frank... I am going to attack this puppy today with a new sense of ZEAL. I picked up a jitterbug yesterday at the swap meet for 19.00; not in a box but you can tell it never had paper on it. I'm gonna stay with the 320 paper and let the sander make the slurry. I agree that the shop needs to be operating room clean, and frequently go through it just sweeping the floor and blowing dust of the walls. The biggest part is when its all done the big door get opened a foot or so and all the crap gets blown outside and gone. Im heating with a 150K BtU gas furnace and have been using cheap filters. I can pull those out and air blow them clean outside, and they look like new, however after the last clean on paint day, I have a single HEPA filter to install for a final air purification. Man how I hate dust!
So if the sander works like it should, Im gonna see some results this week. The heaviest overspray and roughness is all on the horizontal stuff (hood and trunk) so I can let the sanders' weight do the work. Should be interesting! Bill- a slave to the grind!
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Jumping Jehoshaphat (I had to look that one up!!)
Yeah, we all appreciate a good time right? I finished up with that wet sanding yesterday and was walking out the door, and as I reached inside to turn the lights off, and appreciate my fine crapsmanship, I noticed another issue. So help me gosh, the moon, sun, and stars lined up with the sunshine to let me see this. Believe you me, as much as I love bondo dust on a burger to go, and was TOTALLY in there before and longboarded day after day, this bastard reared its fugly head.
Mind you, this side was checked off as done with wet sanding etc. and ready for color. I had to grin and bear it and get out there this morning and open it up. The very back end that was crushed in turned out pretty well, but there was a marginal spot there as well, so while I was in there, I killed two birds with one stone.
Three hours later, of course, I mixed my primer, shot it THRICE, and spent an hour cleaning the gun; again. Im gonna sand this guy tomorrow with wet 400 totally by hand. I dont need any more burn throughs on the primer, or any underlying surprises again. Good Gosh Gerdy... Am I done yet??? Bill
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Dear Bill and resourceful mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Jumping Jehoshaphat (I had to look that one up!!)
Ya' see! The Internet isn't completely useless after all!! :laughing7:
Sorry about the additional "issuez," but I'm sure BADLASS appreciates all da' luv! . . . . . :love4:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks Ed! Its just the NBO (National Buick Owners) playoffs; the anals versus the shouldadoneitwhileI'mintheres. I like both teams, but Im glad I won! Im still in the shop with wrinkled fingers. Just COMPLETED the wet sanding part. The whole job was power sanded with 400. Tomorrow is cleaning shop including adding some florescent lights, and Friday Im dating Pat; doctors, breakfast, pistol range and the meat market. Bill
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Got some stuff ready for "The Big game" this weekend; I hope. Two free 4 foot lights. Had to wire them and hang'em. Certainly helped the "Illuminati" :overthetop: Went well over that side. No runs, no hits, no errors... Bill
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Got the M.A.S.H. unit ready for incoming tomorrow morning, probably pretty early. Installed the molecular coalescing device on the line (!) and its performing up to CalTech standards. Produced its first batch of heavy water today; about <1 nano CC. Probably just residual in the unit. Gun is cleaned and sighted in and ready to shoot!
Today the bomber got blown down with air, then a nice wash with hot water and a nice soft bench brush, then wiped down with a damp terry cloth towel (2X) and dried. Took some prep wash on a few inconspicuous places for compatibility, and the stuff works great, and barely picked up any crud. Flash off time is under a few minutes. Tomorrow she'll get a total wipe down. I got the prep from a body shop supply in town. SEM had a quart for 17.00 and a GALLON of this was 19.00... I'm lousy at math but the numbers and effect worked for me, with no affect to the paint LOL. Im putting up the MSDS for kicks if ya wanna compare numbers for reference purposes.
Got the SCBA idling on the rescue truck and a fresh pack of smokes waiting OUTSIDE next to the Coke in the snow haha... Bill
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Dear Bill and thrifty mid-60s Buick restorers, . . .
. . . .
I got the prep from a body shop supply in town. SEM had a quart for 17.00 and a GALLON of this was 19.00... I'm lousy at math but the numbers and effect worked for me, with no affect to the paint LOL.
. . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Awe shucks Bill, you got gypped! Don't you know you are supposed to get 2 dimes for a nickel! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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In Chicago that was two tens for a five... Like on the tollway once. I gave the guy a ten dollar bill for a 40 cent toll. That was after a 10 minute wait in line and people blowing their horns behind us, 15 lanes wide. What a mess. The guy said "Make sure you count your change". I did; all 60 cents and peeled out. NINE DOLLARS SHORT! :angry5: :angry5: Bill
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I failed the audition for BLUE MAN GROUP today... the guy said since you cant play the radial thunder mongs, I better keep my day job haha... The solids in that BC covered like a darn. I got 2-3 coats on the car with 2-1/8 quarts. That included everything except inside the trunk. Another new gun, and learning technique curve and again tomorrow with clear coat.
Still have an overspray problem on the roof. The BC was no exception. After the stuff flashed off, it was a wipe clean with a white painters towel. Looked perfect for another coat. Taking pics with and without a flash is like taking pics of coral at 50 feet. Dull and boring, yet with a flash, comes alive. Ed knows what Im referring to. Thought I was gonna get the CC on today but after some cleaning etc. I called it for tomorrow at 2:30 pm today. that was enough. No sense in rushing it now eh?
Theres a few light areas, I think, that may need touching up tomorrow as well. The BC needs 20 minutes before the CC can go on so Im good with that. It may be flash related too. Gotta see in the morning... Bill
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Hi Bill, Looks like you are all set for the big day tomorrow, Just make sure that you have some way to ventilate all of the toxic fumes :tard:. We all enjoyed reading your posts and would hate for you to get sick from painting. Make sure you use a proper respirator and stay safe.. :thumbsup:
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Got a mask with dual HEPA filters. The clear is an isocyanate (?) mix thats pretty toxic altho it smells good! Bill
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Just a few more pics... Bill
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Lookin Good Bill!! This is an exciting moment for us spectators as well!
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Just finished up with the first wipe down and touch ups. That included a few minor pieces of lint removed with some 1200 paper and a squirt to blend. I went over the entire bottom edge again just to be sure. Gonna try for some clear after ANOTHER wipe down when its all flashed off... Still have concerns about overlap/overspray on the roof. Like I need to build a scaffold right??? Bill
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Time for a movie stunt flying harness...
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Seriously Doctor Mike... will the clear blend if I jump around to the other side? Boat paint blends really nice with a 10 minute window. I can stop at thee roof edge, then continue on from there. Right now the BC looks really good and a nice wipe down with a shop towel ( probably the equivalent of 4000 paper!) makes it sparkle oh so nice.
Also the HVLP gun doesn't like spraying overhead. Hmmm. Do I need an extension hose from a remote cup to the gun? Still staying light on the undersides of parts. I really am getting obsessed about doing it right, right? Bill
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(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . There is absolutely no denying it . . . . . . . Bill is now in his blue period!! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Bill, if you can get someone to work with you to get the air hose on a gaff and both of you can move quickly, I think you could drop paint from the outboard at the edge to inside center, then scoot around and go inside/center to outside, and stay wet enough that she'll blend. Then do a wet "drop coat" from a step ladder as quick as you can. Having the "gaffer" keep you from bellyflopping on the roof.
The "sky crane" was sort of in jest. Being around military Corrosion Control (aircraft paint shop), I have seen some "things".
I shot and "washed off" (hot reducer) my dash, four times, before I was happy with it. (Single stage, metallic).
A lot changed in 40 years from my last painting escapades, and I sorta liked the "old school" ways of many things.
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No man, thats cool stuff! We have to be chameleons, and adapt! I hate it when guys say "you cant do that" or "your gonna have to get some one to do that"... Right. Im gonna pay some knucklehead crack kid to do this stuff? No way. Some times we just need that extra hand--- a gaffer. You can just about imagine pulling 1000 pound boat motors out with a 10 foot long pipe and a counterweight on the end. Ive always managed to think outside the box; that makes us kindred spirits; like it or not LOL...
Right now Im just hoping I can get the stuff on one side and get to the other side for a blend. Im already up on a 2 step ladder, with my trusty 360* air swivel connector so a hose around the neck and no belly flopping is the rule de' jour. :laughing7: :laughing7: A belly flop would really suck on this job... Bill
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Well today's the day... (Mel Fisher). As much as I dislike the chinaman stuff, I was forced to buy a 15.00 detail HVLP gun with an adjustable cup. The gravity feed guns DO NOT spray overhead like a damn. Easily adjustable (air and position) I douched the underside of the fender lips, doors, and any fine spots I missed with the blue and its at 100%.
A quickie wipe down and its show time. Gotta semi-wet dust the whole car, then throw a "full wet" coat on the whole thing. Hopefully I wont fork it up! Bill
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Well the whole deal took just about two hours, unbelievable! For the better part, when you open the shop door, its pretty darn dramatic. The roof, hood, and trunk turned out really nice but still a few errant pieces of lint here and there. That was with a solvent wipe and a tack job prior to starting. Unfortunately, as I was cruising along thinking how well the job was going, due to piss poor lighting that I felt was adequate, I was unable to see how much was going on and that produced a few runs.
Dealing with that fact, and the lint deal, I think the whole job is gonna get the 800 sand job and a final coat of clear. Now that I have an idea of how the stuff works, I should end up with a beautiful job. Two absolutely full coats on top of the dry first coat took just about two quarts. 3 hours later its a bit sticky, so Ill give it a chance to cure at least overnight (the mfgrs suggest 24 hours before a wet sand). As all this stuff shrinks about 5%, its already to begin snugging up and not look so juicy. Boat paint with a roll and tip does the same thing. This is gonna reduce the runs to a manageable stage.
I came in feeling sorry for myself. After going out now for a later look, its not as bad as when I finished up. The prep is gonna take a day to accomplish, so why rush it now, right?
Any suggestions appreciated from here... Bill
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Looking good Bill!
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Was that one coat of clear with a HVLP gun? And where did all of the dust or lint come from? Looks like allot.
When you use a tack cloth make sure you also go over the masking paper too. I normally use that and go one direction over the entire car. Don't press hard. But before I tack it too I use an air blower and blow the entire car off along with yourself.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but those runs will never come out unless you reblock those panels with a heavier grit sand paper. And basically start over. You can try to smooth them out but looking down the side if the car you will still see them.
With HVLP guns when you spray don't try and load up the clear for a " wet look". It's not laquer days. Less is better. Less clear is better it may look a little dry or flat but after it dries it will shine. It's easy to sand and polish with little to no orange peal texture.
Also not sure if you had your fluid nozzle adjusted correctly or your air pressure correct. Top adjustment is the width of the fan and the lower one is the fluid adjustment. It shouldn't be adjusted all the way out.
Lastly Harbor Freight guns are good for primer guns that's all.
I have allot of experience in body work and painting cars. I did it for a living for 20 years and opened up a couple of body shops.
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It is time to take a break....you are not in that bad of shape here. Urethane has to dry before going back after it. Earlier post is definitely true about sanding with coarser paper. You can literally start sanding out any runs with wet 400 and a small block(let dry at least a day or two before trying). Ignore the rest of the car as far as lint and work out your sag areas only. Once they are gone you can sand whole car with water and 800 grit. If you sand through the clear on the sags you can stress NOT(yoda) because once you sand everything with 800,you can blend a little color around if necessary before re-clearing. If you try to rush the repair before the clear cures out good it will react around your repairs. I have actually had the best luck mixing up a bit of clear /activator and putting in a little color to overspray repair areas,then spraying clear over whole area. This seems to eliminate the reaction of fresh basecoat over new urethane,which usually creates grief trying to repair in a timely manner.
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Yes - Just more to work through on the way to a great paint job. The rest looks good from your pictures. The junk will sand out for the most part when you are ready for a final cut and buff. I bought a used Sata 3000 pretty cheap on Ebay and sent it Sata for cleaning seals and adjustment. I think I have less then $200 in it and it works fantastic.
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Thanks guys, I really do appreciate the pointers and tips! Right now my tail is between my legs and I am licking my wounds :BangHead: I going out this morning to assess and clean up the shop. Thats part of the problem Im sure LOL. I really thought this phase would be over and we could move on. Theres still plenty to do.
So after the CC has cured, but is still manageable, I want to get on it and back scrape the excess off with a razor blade. Thats just to preface the sanding. Ive had to use that technique before on the boat stuff with varnish and paints and altho tedious, I do have more time than money.
On the gun issue; yeah, I cheaped out, but its the best I could manage $$$. The primer and BC went on surprisingly well, but the CC , even on the first sticky pass seemed to toss droplets at the car, at say, 200-300 per square inch. They flattened out and after getting all the way around, the wet coat did the same thing, HOWEVER, it all blended relatively well. The lint particle thing is probably my fault. Altho really cleaned first (wiped and tacked) just dragging the hose around and debris in the rafters probably dislodged enough crap to get airborne. As of now all that crap is encapsulated with clear haha.
I really did look at the SATA stuff and just couldnt swing it. I do have a several DeVilbiss guns and my old trusty Binks #69 cup guns. All the mess is on the sail panels and on the outside tops of the fenders and doors. Par for the course eh? No problems from the knees down. The HVLP stuff made just as much airborne mess as a cup gun. Too much paint on the needle? Air Pressure too much? I was running around 30 PSI on my gun regulator. The fan seemed OK. Lighting is marginal at best and cant be helped; thats the weird part because all the lower panels are perfect. Hmmm.
This job shouldve been done "as is" but a cut and buff may be the way to go. Dang blast it! Bill
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I've successfully sanded out runs in cc..... just make sure it's fully cured before attacking them. When I did my first bc/cc job, I only had two runs.... one down the left side and the other down the right side, must've been 10 feet worth! My error was putting in on too heavy and inadequate time between coats in the cool weather. One spot I hit with a razor blade and the clear was still gummy.
Lots of guys have success with the HF guns. If the clear is spraying with larger droplets, it's not being atomized properly. Paint may need to be reduced more, or higher air pressure usually helps. Best to search YouTube for some HF gun tips.
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Thanks walt! Yeah, the paint is a good product/deal, but te customer support sux. Three callswith a voicemail and their being adamant about emailing questions ( times!) and finally getting a single line answer like this:
"Please advise whether or not thinning of the clear coat is necessary. I just bought your kit) blue sapphire metallic BC and the upper end clear coat which came with one gallon of clear and two quarts of hardener (2:1). Is reduction necessary? Thanks. Awaiting your answer here please!"
"Yes, the included two quarts of hardener must be mixed with the clear to spray."
I called BS on them by phone; "You have my money and thats the help I get?" with no other replies.
I wasnt asking about application, just thinning. I was gonna try the old standby with some lacquer thinner but didnt want to guess the sensitivity of the stuff. I shot some with the detail gun with a .6mm tip and it was really nice, so I went ahead. I shouldve dug out the old Zahn #2 as the can did give a time. The masking tape was almost dry to the touch (still sticky tho) after the first trip around the car so I just went ahead. The big gun was spitting, but after about 15 seconds, all the spots laid flat. The should was a good 70*+, so I didnt feel the temp was too low. That was with a 3 hour heat sink into the car as well.
I can only attribute my mess to poor lighting and definitely too much product applied. The latter being necessary to blend probably due to too little air pressure. A bloody case of the dog chasing his own tail!
I had to take today off with zero sleep last night. I am having a reaction to statin meds with baseball bat pounding nocturnal leg and foot cramps every 1-1/2 hours. I quit the meds a month ago and they cleared up. My doc changed the brand and I was on 1/4 dose (10Mg) and they started back without relent again last week. Now I get them even sleeping upright on the couch all day today; still every 1-1/2 hous. What gives there? Im ready to stick my head in the microwave haha.
Tomorrow the paint is getting a close shave. A two day beard should be plenty LOL. Its not the end of the world; just another 2 day set back. Thanks! Bill
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When I did my first bc/cc job, I only had two runs.... one down the left side and the other down the right side, must've been 10 feet worth!
Absolutely true with new materials...I purposely spray some of my paper to use as a .....
Have another beer before next coat gauge. If the spot is not literally stringing away on my finger it is time to open another 12 once can of patience. In cold weather it may take a lot of patience so I prefer to stay away from any cans larger than 12 once size. There is a fine line between too wet,stringy,tacky,and get on anew coat if you want it to flow out decent. A 16 once can of patience will sometimes interfere with any one single stage of drying time. Generally these stages take place between 8-20 minutes with properly mixed material,but I have waited as much as an hour in cold weather.
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I like yer timer! Im not consuming in the shop but do have various other "methods". Bill
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Well two 24 packs later the stuff was still soft enough to leave a sleeve print from my hoody at about noon today. Thats about 30+ hours of cure time. Its cold out there overnight with the heat off so its gonna take some extra time. I spent a few hours with a bunch of brand new razor blades cutting off what I could. This mind you, was only to minimize the sanding part. The slices came off like a biopsy slice for a microscope slide. Tedious comes to mind. The inside of each slice was still sticky enough to stick to the shiny stuff. Had to pick each one out with the corner of the blade.
These are single edge blades bought in 100 packs. I took a piece of 1-1/2 inch blue tape and wrapped the finger handle making it easier to control. On one spot when I was done, I took a piece of well used 400 wet and didnt do much but dull the finish. I tried some new 220 wet and it wouldnt begin to slide. Still too soft I'm guessing?
The bumps still showed through even after a back scraping. Guess its gotta dry some more. Why rush it now. Back scraping did produce quite a bit of excess, being careful to not knick the base coat. May have to do some spot filling on the clear to even it out before a 800 sand and buff. I did back scrape all 7 spots that had run so I can examine them at a glance and not have to hunt them down. Some are big and some are very slight. All in a days work I guess.
Be sure to read chapter 378 tomorrow LOL... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners with a perfectionist streak, . . . .
Well two 24 packs later the stuff was still soft enough to leave a sleeve print from my hoody at about noon today.
. . . . .
All in a days work I guess.
All this reminds me of when I had time to work on my model railroad. The process is very much the same struggle, but at least whatever you are working on can be easily moved around in your hands!
Be sure to read chapter 378 tomorrow LOL... Bill
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Ya' think you could sell the rights to this story to Hollywood and have them make one of d'em action-packed mellerdramas out of it? . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Naw Ed... Im leaning towards more of an UN-reality show. Can it get worse?? Today I was attacking the runs with some 400. It a corner was a "divot" that needed to get sanded out... OK. Sanded it and blew it out . Did this 3 times and the dang clear lifted. I blew some more and before I was done the entire rear quarter panel is CLEAR-LESS now. Just another chapter, right?
I was able to stop the blow off at both ends "strategically". Could probably go around the whole car like this. At this point all I need to do is re-prep and shoot blue on the fender, then clear it... again. Now where'd I leave that microwave??? Bill
Film at 11:00... tomorrow LOL.
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Had to take today off. Paramount was to go buy a new camera. Gonna pop a Corona tonight in honor of all the cleaning supplies and potable water having had vanished from the walmart store. People are panicking. Schools are closed. Churches are doing services on line. Me? Im stocking up on .45 ACP's.
So as I mentioned about blowing the clear coat off, heres the deal. The tape line saved the day. Theres about 6-7 areas with runs that got sanded down to "flat" with 150 on a rubber block. I'm gonna wet sand the whole job with 400 and touch up a few minor blems, then recoat the whole thing with clear. My pal loaned me 4 BIG halogen lights and I'm gonna rig an exhaust fan for the fumes. Im gonna be prepared this time... or else! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who clock d'em hours, . . . . .
Had to take today off.
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . . Oh yeah? Did you have permission from da' boss!!! Pat! . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_grin_triangle.gif)
Paramount was to go buy a new camera.
Why do you need a new camera? Did the old camera fall victim to something in the shop?
Gonna pop a Corona tonight in honor of all the cleaning supplies and potable water having had vanished from the walmart store. People are panicking. Schools are closed. Churches are doing services on line.
It certainly seems like many people cannot make a realistic assessment of the risk associated with the corona virus. It isn't very different than flu viruses and people don't panic over that. Our public schools should guarantee that people can make these sorts of judgement calls reasonably, but clearly people don't feel comfortable enough with the science to trust the experts.
So as I mentioned about blowing the clear coat off, heres the deal. The tape line saved the day. Theres about 6-7 areas with runs that got sanded down to "flat" with 150 on a rubber block. I'm gonna wet sand the whole job with 400 and touch up a few minor blems, then recoat the whole thing with clear. My pal loaned me 4 BIG halogen lights and I'm gonna rig an exhaust fan for the fumes. Im gonna be prepared this time... or else!
Indeed be careful about those fumes! Take good care of your own health so that you can really enjoy BADLASS!!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hey Ed... Nap time for the last few days eh? Yeah... being retired TIME is my only boss. Feelings got hurt from the paint running away from home and had to spend the day searching for it :overthetop:. Actually I gave it a day off to get settled before I punished it. It came around though...
In the midst of all this I picked up my trusty camera, turned it on and looked into the mind of Jimi Hendrix when the back screen lit up. It was a bad day for the brown acid. The pics still worked, but the screen was a psychedelic blur. The resident "exspurt" at walmart said I mustve dropped it. Not quite. Homey dont play that. Got a replacement for 100.00. Batteries all match (I have 3 of these guys) but no SIMs card. Got several 32 MgP cards to use. This camera is a 190 model and is 20 megs. Nice sharp pics and most of its user friendly--- as much as the digital junk can be.
I'm using a MSA approved HEPA mask, so the fumes arent bad, but the cloud obscures the viz. The other day I felt like I was diving in a cenote with no safety line LOL... I should wear that to walmart next time. Along with some cheap sunglasses. All the walmartians are freaking out up here. The corona thing has now infected one out of every 200 million US citizens. Im keeping all 12 of my fingers crossed. Maybe it'll thin the herd LOL>
Got my faux pas clear job straightened out and primer back on the back fender today. All the other spots were runs that got sanded flat. Now I hafta go over the whole girl with some 800. I guess its gonna be a show finish after all. Tomorrow maybe some color, and thursday olive garden in Green Bay. Ahhh... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who like to take snapshots, . . . .
. . . .
In the midst of all this I picked up my trusty camera, turned it on and looked into the mind of Jimi Hendrix when the back screen lit up. It was a bad day for the brown acid.
. . . .
Well that's definitely a reason to replace your old camera!
. . . .
Got a replacement for 100.00. Batteries all match (I have 3 of these guys) but no SIMs card. Got several 32 MgP cards to use. This camera is a 190 model and is 20 megs. Nice sharp pics and most of its user friendly--- as much as the digital junk can be.
I'm glad that you found an inexpensive camera that you are comfortable lugging around in the workshop. My main camera is a nice Canon DSLR, but it isn't particularly robust for places like engine bays. I still prefer to use it when possible. There is something really addictive about a optical zoom lens with a wide range of magnification. When the shot seems too risky for the DSLR, I'll use my iPhone 6. While better protected than a DSLR, it isn't bullet-proof and replacing would also be very expensive. These days, I don't take a lot of photos in nasty environments so I'll live with what I've got. However, anyone starting a restoration might want to get an inexpensive camera that they wouldn't be sorry to sacrifice.
Keep up the good work Bill! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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So much for the quickie paint job. All that prep work went down the tubes. Got the sags taken care of and the starboard side is just about ready for some spotting in with color. Since the whole thing will be sanded, I am half tempted to run down the whole side with color etc so theres no "drift" in the metallic. Judges? Exspurts??
In order to get down through the orange peel there was a lot of 260 wet sanding. Frome there up to 400 and 600. I wouldve been there for days with the finer stuff. Now Im not sure if the CC needs a sticky primer coat then a wet coat, or just go straight with a full blown wet coat. Feel free to lend some advice! Flat stuff like the hood etc. had the dust mites (!) but the bottoms of the sides had the orange peel. The hardest area to reach for an old fat cripple. Persevere! Bill
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Nothing like self imposed isolation. Pat is on her way with a C.A.R.E. shipment to the kids in Miller Missouri. Four kids plus her daughter and SIL and the cupboards are bare. In a town of 400 theres not an extra square of TP left.
My extra quart of clear arrived yesterday and up until this morning Ive been wet sanding the heck outa the BADLASS. This time its gonna be show quality... OR ELSE! At 1400 hrs I got 3-4 coats of color on the sand through spots and the passenger side quarter panel. Then A full color coat on the sides from the fender top edges down. Turned out pretty good I think (I HOPE!). Just want the color to maintain the same hue throughout from all the sanding etc. The stuff was easy to blend for sure.
Set up a furnace blower to pull the fumes and overspray out which helped immensely. All that color amounted to about 4-5 ounces of BC. The previous CC took 2 quarts and thats the door jambs and trunk stuff. I have 3 quarts now to finish it off. Send good thoughts my way at around 0900 tomorrow please!
I hope everyone else is doing OK with the world wide catastrophe hitting us. Without hording, we are pretty well stocked for a few months worth of goods. Look after you and yours' and even the old lady 2 doors down! This event will either pull the world together or do us in. At least Im gonna be driving a shiny old Buick... Bill
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Bill, Hoping take two is the keeper!
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Good luck Bill.
You can clear just the quarters,trunk and roof.....if the overspray is too heavy in there. Let her dry a day and cover it to clear the rest. It may be an option now that the base is all blended in good. I know it gets foggy quick in a garage,and you would not have any trouble with color match now that it is all covered. It may also let you keep the smaller area clean and glossy between coats. Use the sticky finger method between coats to make sure it is tacky enough to spray.
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CONFIDENCE IS HIGH. Got that puppy cleared yesterday with outstanding results. Two minor runs to be repaired where I ran out of hose travel and stalled on the gun for a split second. No biggy. That damn hose kept getting caught coming around under the tires and would stop without warning! Next time the wheels come off!
Gonna try demasking it today; the stuffs been on for over a month. Thats probably gonna be a mess too. Persevere! Bill
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Looking good! On your hose problem, slice up some old buckets or whatever is round. Slide the pieces up against the tires and your hose won't get caught up.
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I Like that idea! Where you been for the last 500 trips around that car LOL??? The other issue is my bad... I parked the car on corrugated cardboard and after all the wetsanding that stuff is curled up; just too lazy to get down there with a futility knife and trim it out... Bill
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Dear Bill, Jimbo, and mid-60s Buick restorers,
CONFIDENCE IS HIGH. Got that puppy cleared yesterday with outstanding results.
. . . . .
Definitely looking good! :hello2: Looks like all the perseverance is bearing fruit!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Did a strip tease today. Almost forgot what its like haha. All of a sudden you can see through the windows again! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who really like shiny! :sunny:
Did a strip tease today. Almost forgot what its like haha. All of a sudden you can see through the windows again! Bill
Looking good Bill! :hello2:
However, I do hope you have a good quality rubber cleaner and tire dressing. Those tires are definitely detracting from the look of BADLASS! . . . :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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That stuff is all shrouded in shop dust. In a few weeks itll go outside for a springtime shower. Thats one of the few times it gets really wet! At least those Cooper RWL's stay white and dont turn brown. The front BFG's are older and dont have that issue either. Bill
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Love this thread Bill, your an inspiration.
Hope you get to drive the wheels off the BADLASS all summer.
Marcus
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Blimey MARCUS! A few more weeks when all this funny business calms down Ill be ready! You guys are just getting ready to hunker down for a long winters work arent you? Bill
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Bill.
Are you sure that's the shade of red you were hoping for?
:laughing7:
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For the SW air cleaner across the hall?? Thats "patina" LOL... Bill
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Patina? I think I dated her sister in high school. What a barn find she was!
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Corn Fed USDA prime right? ws
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...free milk and a cow.
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Copy Bill, Winter is on the way here. With that said I live in Queensland (Sunshine state) I'm about 1 hours drive West of Brisbane ( East Coast) and 2296 feet above sea level. We get mild frost no snow, walk in the park really. I couldn't imagine what its like to live in the snow like you guys, and have to hibernate your cars each year.
Stay safe Men
Marcus
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Didnt they used to say "why buy the cow when the milk is free"? :binkybaby: Bill
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Copy Bill, Winter is on the way here. With that said I live in Queensland (Sunshine state) I'm about 1 hours drive West of Brisbane ( East Coast) and 2296 feet above sea level. We get mild frost no snow, walk in the park really. I couldn't imagine what its like to live in the snow like you guys, and have to hibernate your cars each year.
Stay safe Men
Marcus
How about deep sea fishing in the Bass Straight in another month? Brrrr. Bill
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Looks loverly gubnah! About 30* south Lat.? Up around Dalby? Kinda like Florida here. Bill
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brisbane
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Well I sure hope everyone is in their comfort zone. We're doing OK, with plenty of food and booze, and, uh, wet sandpaper LOL. Gonna hafta take it up a notch for entertainment. Ill do a video now and then. I was in the shop and asked google to play some Debbie Harry (Blondie). They whipped up a german radio station interview with her talking about her music career. It was nice to not hear Corona mentioned even once.
So heres a tour of the fortress of solitude and some pics. So get somethin' done on them rustbuckets! US mail and UPS is still making deliveries! Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTcLtF_JUTE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTcLtF_JUTE)
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Looking good Bill, :cheers2: Keep up the good work and get that filter in the furnace and warm the place up and keep going. Tony
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Ive been using the el cheapo filters and they actually catch a lot of trash, especially the blue dust from the base coat job. Those, I take outside and can blow them out with air. I also used the 10.00 HEPA filters which catch all the spray stuff. One day and they are gonners. Even the furnace starves for purge air and wont light-off! the last one I used when clearcoating and looked like new, but was plugged solid with the CC. So now all the spraying is done so I can resume with the cheap ones.
Put that used one back in for the wet sanding and alls well. Back at it today. So far its 12 hours into the hood, front fender, and pass. door. Now I really see where those $10,000 paint jobs add up! Bill
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WOW! I thought everyone was on telecommunications lockdown. This place was D.O.A. for the last few days, then BAMM! Hope everyone's doing OK. I just heard there was some kinda bug going around or something; I dont ever listen to news out in the shop; only music. It calms the savage beast ya know... Something about Corona beer being bad and giving everyone the runs?? Dont drink the water in Mexico. LOL...
So I'm still in the shop every day and finally had a revelation. Either I pay somebody to do this job, or its gonna do it itself. Hmm. A conundrum. I guess Ill have to be the switch hitter here. So far Ive worn the digits down to the first knuckle. When the fingernails fell off, it kinda hurt, but once I was past them, its all good.
Like Billy Preston sang, "Willy go round in circles", its where I'm at. I ordered a 2 quart kit from 3M of the compound and polish, and a pair of foam pads for buffing.
So far its been cutting with 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200, and finally 1500. Now that the hard parts done, tomorrow is gonna be a final with 2000, and thats where I call it quits. Thats a lotta circles. One good thing is its' loosened up the bad shoulders and elbows that have been killing me for the last 20 years. The shiny stuff is just de-waxer...
Stay well my friends and drink DOS XX's... Bill
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Looks loverly gubnah! About 30* south Lat.? Up around Dalby? Kinda like Florida here. Bill
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brisbane
Hi Bill, Very close with Dalby. I live in Highfields, on the outskirts of Toowoomba.
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Know it like the back o' me hand. Krikey! Not really but always wanted to go... My grand dad owned a LARGE Caterpillar dealership (like 12 branches) and had a young lad named Bruce (forgot the surname) fly up to Chicago on a buying spree. He stayed at my moms house. Their ranch was like 5 or 50 million acres (?)... they each owned their own planes to fly into town for groceries. He wrote a cheque for like a half dozen bulldozers and a few excavators. And we bitch about shipping a fender??? I wished I remembered more. I was 18 at the time. Bill
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That paint is too shiny Bill,
Better leave it outside in the sun 7 or 8 years so it looks like a BARN FIND or SURVIVOR just in case you ever want to sell it. Apparently if someone is too lazy to do anything with an old pile that sat around too long....they have to advertise it with flowerly titles in order to appraise it as twice the value of a old fashioned GETRDUN nice job like yours. You don't have to watch a lot of GUNSMOKE re-runs to see it was a different world when you had to use your own potential to accomplish anything. Very impressive job on getting an oldie back into a goodie,Dan
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Thanks Dan! Its good to see a little humor left in this ugly planet. Maybe when they break the lockdown it'll be June or July and I'll need shades to drive that girl! Pat and I were talking about the boat today; theres a possibility that all the marinas' on the lakes may not be able to open. THAT would get me worried. The winter AND summer place I'm at are privately owned so I'm exempt on that call, but all the others around are county or state owned and big brother dont fish. Hmmm... Bill
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Spent 1-1/2 hours yesterday going over the entire car with 2000. I found one tiny flaw about 1/4" x 1 inch next to a vent window that needs some CC work, but other than that it was cien or ciento... 100% Got brave and took the buffer and 3M compound to the hood and fender top. Seiously, this was 20 minutes wrth of work! Gonna gitter done today! Well a dang good part of it! Bill
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Awesome! Buffing is the most rewarding part. Watch those edges! Many guys recommend taping the edges to prevent burnthru. Love that metalflake!
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Looks great! What is mixed in with the Coke? Bacardi maybe?
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Lookin' good, Bill! I like those hood louvers more every time I see them!
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Dear Bill, Walt, Jim, Sean, and mid-60s Buick caregivers who are big fans of shine! :sunny:
Thanks Bill for continuing to share your journey with BADLASS. Indeed you are making the final laps toward the winner's circle! :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Greetings fellow Buick restoration enthusiasts and fume huffers! Im just enjoying the pleasing effects of a little post painting BAIN DRAMAGE!
No drinking on the job Jim...Just cannabis and Coke LOL. Rums for desert after dinner. Got some Lady Bligh (Rums always named after pirates now!) and it has 9 spices, one being a caramel flavor. I keep the jug in the freezer and pull a swig or two watching TV in the evening.
That ol' 25 pound Milwaukee buffer was 100 lbs when I set it down. Most of this was done with a WEN buffer, about 1/8 th the weight and 1/8th the torque. Its got a 6 inch wool bonnet instead of the 8 inch foam job. Much easier to control. Once ya get into a big flat area, the MWK is the tool for the job.
As its not really perfect yet, I'm not gonna bore anyone with the minor faux pas'. Gonna touch them up tomorrow, then its out to the front garden to cut down last years hosta stalks. Lilly's have broken the ground so its the day for that stuff.
The best trick about the edges is to use the wheel coming OFF the edge, not leading into it. The 3M sauce is magic too. So I re-did the hood to clear up some hazy spots and got the whole passenger side done and trunk lid done. Like I said before, its a matter of figuring out the mechanics of the stuff. I think the shark gills are gonna look cool when alls' said and done; just a little different. Hell, I could donked it with some 28's. Dare to be different eh?
So I hope everyone is fairing well during our crisis. Manitowoc County got its first confirmed case yesterday. Staples and fuel are all good to go, just way less traffic.
Whats the verdict on the wax job? Ive heard (3M finish stuff) is good on top of the compound and others have said to let it air out and finish boiling off the solvents in the BC/CC for a few weeks. Thoughts?? The 4th pic shows the rafters overhead on the hood. VERY LITTLE hazing, if any! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick paint perfectionists,
The 4th pic shows the rafters overhead on the hood. VERY LITTLE hazing, if any!
That's really impressive! :sunny:
Whats the verdict on the wax job? Ive heard (3M finish stuff) is good on top of the compound and others have said to let it air out and finish boiling off the solvents in the BC/CC for a few weeks. Thoughts??
When I had the dings in Biquette's driver side door touched up it was with solvent-based paint, the body shop recommended giving the paint a few weeks to "off-gas" the remaining solvents. Has anybody heard otherwise?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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That was the recommendation when I painted my Special almost 20 years ago..... wait a few months before waxing.
At that time it was recommended to use a Glaze until it was cured enough for a good waxing.
I'll bet there are newer products which are recommended these days.
The Autobodystore.com forum is my go-to for any paint/body questions.
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Yeah Will... Im on a first name basis with Len! Just pluggin' along.... Bill
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The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain. I think he has got it Mr. Higgins!
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And some Autobodystore.com trivia.....
Boardmember MartinSr is Brian Martin.....Nainhead guru Russ Martin's brother. Brian has been a 65 GS owner for decades. Brian wrote a series of autobody/paint articles called 'The Basics of Basics'. A must read for anyone doing their own work:
http://www.autobodystore.com/martinsr.shtml (http://www.autobodystore.com/martinsr.shtml)
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Very interesting, thanks Walt!
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I just read through his "panel alignment" seminar. I need to do a little finesse work on that part. I already have the pivot up, front down thing sorted out but just need to take some time and be methodical.
Hood is on today ... YAY!! Theres a few alignment issues at the rear corner by the cowl. I may need to enlarge some holes. It was fun with Pat helping and didnt make any big ol' gouges anyway! We'll play with it some more tomorrow... Bill
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Bill, your in the home stretch...looking good!
:hello2:
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So whats a good Catholic do The day before Easter??? LOTS OF KNEELING! That ain't no joke pastor! Spent a good 3-4 hours kneeling and praying (maybe some swearing added in for good measure!!) for a good fit on the rug. Turned out pretty nice with minimal waste.The waste is from the port side. Shampooed and Vacced the seats for good measure too. The front will go back in tomorrow. We're getting close guys!!! Bill
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Dear Bill and devote mid-60s Buick caregivers, . . .
Turned out pretty nice with minimal waste.The waste is from the port side. Shampooed and Vacced the seats for good measure too. The front will go back in tomorrow. We're getting close guys!!!
That carpet sure looks lovely! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/smiley.gif) Has Pat given it the snuggly toes test of approval yet? :laughing7:
So whats a good Catholic do The day before Easter??? LOTS OF KNEELING! That ain't no joke pastor! Spent a good 3-4 hours kneeling and praying (maybe some swearing added in for good measure!!)
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . I dunno' Bill, but I suspect that d'em bad words (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/badwords.gif) might have canceled out all that praying! . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/pray.gif)
. . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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With no seats and new rugs, plenty of room for the hibbity-jibbity and free rug burns on the knees for no extra charge LOL. Use the "HUMPS" to your' advantage :blob7: ! Kinda hard to drive to the drive-in with no seats tho :nono:... Bill
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Finally figured out one thing thats good about this thing going around... Im in no particular rush to finish the tasks at hand. Worked from 0900 to 1400 hrs and quit when I felt like it.
Opened up a few holes a tad so there was no forcing the pot metal stuff going together. Had to make a few trim clips (from stainless of course!!) and merely hold in position and snug'em up. Freshly wire wheeled, oiled and painted rear bumper bolts made it a cake walk. Maybe one day, Ill get a decent rear bumper. This one was pretty crusty inside, but the only bad spot was from wet exhaust with gramma driving to the store in January. The exhaust never got hot enough to dry out; you know the end result of that I'm sure. The silver spray paint shows, just barely. Inside the trunk is the pile of tools for the trim and the repair job from cutting out the valance this winter. Best part is I didnt bust a single post off the trim.
Cant wait to see this guy outside! Flash pics in the shop show the job with the worst possible ambient lighting.
Three wires, air shock hose, and a fine tune adjusting it and its off to the front bumper. This is the fun stuff; well, beats sanding anyways. Maybe, just maybe, we'll go for a spin this weekend! Sould be fun! Bill
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That rear license plate holder is priceless!!!
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Hi Bill, BADLASS looks great. All of that hard work paid off, It's almost time to get it started and take it out for a cruise. Keep us posted as You put it all back together and post a photo of it outside in the Spring sunshine. Since we are all on lock down here in NYC, I have been cleaning out to make room for more stuff that I probably won't use and will throw out the next time I clean out. I came across those 64 V6 parts that I purchased from you last year. So I cranked up the blast cabinet and started removing that rust. Finished the valve covers and the air cleaner lid, then I heard the Smoke Alarm buzzing in the house that means time to clean up for dinner :evil6: The rest of the V6 parts I will blast tomorrow. Then go on to other parts projects to keep me busy and out of the way of the Wife :argue:
Those were great parts, Thanks Bill.
Tony :thumbsup:
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Dear Bill, 65GSconv, Tony, and mid-60s Buick owners who's cars are members of the family,
. . . . .
Cant wait to see this guy outside!
. . . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . For shame Bill! Shouldn't that be "Can't wait to see this gal outside!" . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Are you saying the BADLASS is a shemale?? Theres no gender confusion in this house. :dontknow: So after getting the bumpers all back on and aligned, getting all the lights going, and getting the battery mounted back in thats been sitting on a chunk-o-rug since November, I slung the door open and the ol' gal shrieked and jumped backwards. Sunlight scared and blinded her. She reminded me of raising Veal!
So heres the quiz, what has FOUR HUNDRED AND SIXTY FIVE CUBIC INCHES, a quart of gas in the tank and a perfect battery all do in unison? I dont know myself, but after spinning the motor over about 10 times, then pumping the gas five times, it sure made a lot of racket. Reminded me of a hot rod Buick from my sordid past.
There was 20 psi on the oil gage before it hit and soon after up to its' requisite 80 psi. The worst part was the alternator load sqeeling for about 20 seconds, then silenced and charged. Ahhhh.
So tomorrow, weather permitting, we are spinning around town to pay some bills. Once home, she's getting a rinse to get rid of all the sanding paste in the window channels before the trim goes on, and getting the wheels washed. While uptown, I think I'm gonna treat here to some of that booz free 93 for 139.9 YUM-MEE!
Im gonna stop by my pals shop and see how much he wants to change out the front brake shoes and wheel cylinders. I have a leaker and a box full of new parts. I just got my Trump Bucks today so I wanna spread the wealth; maybe Mahlanias' ah er... Bill
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Dear Bill and owners of mid-60s Buick sleeping beauties,
. . . .
So heres the quiz, what has FOUR HUNDRED AND SIXTY FIVE CUBIC INCHES, a quart of gas in the tank and a perfect battery all do in unison? I dont know myself, but after spinning the motor over about 10 times, then pumping the gas five times, it sure made a lot of racket. Reminded me of a hot rod Buick from my sordid past.
. . . .
So tomorrow, weather permitting, we are spinning around town to pay some bills.
. . . .
Good to hear that BADLASS woke up from her winter slumber without too many issues! I wish you good weather and happy driving tomorrow! Please do take more pictures!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Nothing better than a photo-op after a one block long burnout through downtown. Streets are dead and all the cops are hiding behind the donut shop LOL..
This 455 really comes alive too! Bll
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Looks great outside Bill! A little naked without the trim though. Kind of risque.
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Yeah, it whistles at itself as it goes by.
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., Michael, and owners of photogenic mid-60s Buicks,
Thanks for sharing the photos Bill! BADLASS looks great and even the backdrop is appealing!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Very nice Bill !
Loren
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An effort to be proud of Bill! But most importantly, what is Pat's reaction?? :hello2:
You're well positioned for summer cruising if allowed in Wisconsin and beyond.
:cheers2:
Chuck
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., Michael, and owners of photogenic mid-60s Buicks,
Thanks for sharing the photos Bill! BADLASS looks great and even the backdrop is appealing!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
Thanks much guys! Its turned out so good so far that I'm appealing outa here! This is just a test on a new keyboard.
I just tossed my last (had several!!) $7.99 Stevie Wonder keyboards. Yellow knobs with worn off black oversized letter. The "I" wouldn't stroke onscreen any more
Of course this thing isnt square (dang Virgos!!) and looks like a pile of black plastic you cant see with subdued lighting, and of course, gray scale micro printing letters on the keys. At least its not a "touch pad". Those were something I learned "not to touch" at a very early age... thanks MOM! They call it ergonomic or some non-sensical thing to keep from getting hand cramps or something. If it aint one thing its another. Its like perfecting sealing wax.
So with all the new paint, headliner, rugs and steam cleaned seats, it "almost" has that new car smell.
My last Model T Ford I sold, I had installed a "Hollywood Wolf Whistle" on it. Almost as much fun as seeing a dress blow up on a windy day... Ahhhh, days gone by.
So tomorrow I am beginning the Aldous Huxley sequel, "Brave Nude World", since I can take a break from my current best seller Mein Kampf II. :read2: Ive been so wrapped up on the BADLASS that Ive literally abandoned my yacht. Gonna run the BADLASS over there for a look-see and maybe mess around for a bit. The cars' just about done (for now anyway!) and I hafta get with it on the boat before the FEDS shut down all the Navigable waterways due to this flu bug thing I keep hearing about. Something about spoiled Corona beer or something??? I thought that stuff was all pasteurized... Whoaaa there Nellie!!
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Looks great Bill, but,.......no picture of the burnout?
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Those COOPER RWLs dont leave much residue! Next time out Ill have Pat do an action video. Shoulda done it this time but didnt have the camera onboard. Bill
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Looks great in the sunshine, You did it :cheers2: all that hard work choking on those fumes produced a real nice paint job !!! How about a walk around video of BADLASS out in the driveway ? Good Luck and don't get too crazy or you will mess up a good thing .. :occasion14:
Tony
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WOW.. 13 days since the last post here! I got so wrapped up in car stuff this past winter season, and then I heard some kinda flu bug is going around that I didnt get much done besides the BADLASS, dewinterized and unwrap the yacht, put the floating docking in which included getting the 14 footer going for a utility boat, thatch the front yard and rake up 5 yards of leaves outa the back for the city to pick up for free. They were so flat from the snow that it was pitchfork work and a tarp to drag the stuff 200 feet to the street.
Everyone been stimulated yet? Pat and I both got ours and it blew out the window; but it was a nice little Comp Check anyway. In case you no se hablamo Espanol, it was in English as well LOL...
Today the BADLASS was out in the rain for the first time in 40 years! Ran her up the 6 blocks into town to get the front brake shoes and wheel cylinders changed out. That was a treat for ME for once LOL. I had the parts, so the labor was 143.00... about 1-1/2 hours including bleeding. It was nice to have somebody else do the work (thats a first!!!) on a rack.
I got all the window trim back on, albeit a little struggle, but with all the re-framing around the back window last winter, it turned out OK. A few dings from past attempts at removing and re-installing the trim to thwart leaks; so WTF. Im still good with it. Of course that was also about 3-4 hours on the buff with Tripoli polish (we call it "color") to shine it up. Picked up 2 wheel well stainless lips for 25.00! Still need the PF and DR and then the bottom trim on the rockers goes on. Practically a Skylark with the trim, but she's dressed in her finest now, and ready for PROM and her first, ah....
I also found my extra 1964 rear BUICK escutcheon. This is '64 only I guess. Works on the Skylarks and the Specials. Identical and no busted pins, BRIGHT chrome and minor pitting. Id give it a 9 for driver quality or a rechrome core. Plenty of pics if interested... Bill
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Just in case of any interest, heres the rear escutcheon. Trades for wheel well trim considered, otherwise throw a number my way. Its open for debate LOL... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who find that their plates tend to be a bit full . . . .
WOW.. 13 days since the last post here!
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . So, what kept ya' ? . . . . .
I got so wrapped up in car stuff this past winter season, and then I heard some kinda flu bug is going around that I didnt get much done besides the BADLASS, dewinterized and unwrap the yacht, put the floating docking in which included getting the 14 footer going for a utility boat, thatch the front yard and rake up 5 yards of leaves outa the back for the city to pick up for free. They were so flat from the snow that it was pitchfork work and a tarp to drag the stuff 200 feet to the street.
. . . . . Is that all? . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Today the BADLASS was out in the rain for the first time in 40 years!
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . . . . . Oh NO! Was BADLASS afraid of getting her hair wet? . . . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Ran her up the 6 blocks into town to get the front brake shoes and wheel cylinders changed out. That was a treat for ME for once LOL. I had the parts, so the labor was 143.00... about 1-1/2 hours including bleeding. It was nice to have somebody else do the work (thats a first!!!) on a rack.
So seriously, what did the fellows working on BADLASS think of her? Did she pick up her first compliments since the paint job? . . . . :hello2:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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I got so wrapped up in car stuff this past winter season, and then I heard some kinda flu bug is going around that I didnt get much done besides the BADLASS, dewinterized and unwrap the yacht, put the floating docking in which included getting the 14 footer going for a utility boat, thatch the front yard and rake up 5 yards of leaves outa the back for the city to pick up for free. They were so flat from the snow that it was pitchfork work and a tarp to drag the stuff 200 feet to the street.
. . . . . Is that all? . . . . .
That was just last Thursday LOL... Yeah the repair shop guy test drove it and said it was fun. The streets were about 90% dry by then. Probably gonna bottom paint the boat tomorrow and launch Saturday if this wind stays calm. After all that jazz is calmed down, I'm gonna finish up on ol' girl for the summer with a wash and wax; and maybe a few burnouts around town just to piss off the LEO's! Bill
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Boat was scheduled to splash at 0900 hrs today. At 0912 the motors were pumping water. So its windy and the water is wayyyy up and Im worried about the "decreasing" air clearance on the main street bridge I need to get under. Usually Pat is upstairs calling out clearances as I idle up against it. This year the step son Scott (AKA O.J. for orange jumpsuit) is calling it out. Pats 4-6" has now decreased to Scotts 1-1/2 FEET!
So the boat has Delcotron 100 amp single wire alternators installed with the re-power in 1995. You have to give the engine a little rev to turn them on.
Roughly 14-1/2 VDC on the starboard side and a straight 12 VDC on the port. Some quick trouble shooting proved it was a gawner. Pulled it off and took it to the old motor parts store in town for a test, Creaky wood floors and just enough grunge to make me feel comfy. Yeah... its DOA. Monday its going into the motor shop for a look see, and this guy pipes up and says they have new ones in stock for 130.00. Gotta see how it plays out at the motor shop, or here. Otherwise alls hunky-dory.
Heres a little youtube of the bridge approach, and under. Pardon the wind noise! Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhn-O4ERswU&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhn-O4ERswU&feature=youtu.be)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who are also active or former sailors,
Boat was scheduled to splash at 0900 hrs today. At 0912 the motors were pumping water. So its windy and the water is wayyyy up and Im worried about the "decreasing" air clearance on the main street bridge I need to get under.
. . . . .
Oh my that was a close squeeze! I'm glad nobody's got a haircut da' hard way! :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hello Edouard and fellow wannabe barbers,
Why suffer through the trauma of trying to get a haircut when you can just do yer own. NO ONE around here will even pic up scissors for fear of concentration camp internment! Had to struggle through the mop-top with the light duty trimmers. Pat did the back and was scared to death. With 6 kids I figgered she cut hair before but never a single sprout. Hell, I dont hafta look at it and its outa my face. Bill
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I thought Clark Gable at first glance...
Nice clean up.
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Dear Bill, Jim, and shaggy mid-60s Buick owners,
Why suffer through the trauma of trying to get a haircut when you can just do yer own.
. . . . .
Well, . . . . . . We used to have a home electric haircut trimmer kit. The 64 dollar question is whether or not we still do and if so - where is it? I'm not feeling completely desperate . . . . . . yet!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Thanks JIMBO!!! I have heard Martin Sheen before tho....Now about poor Carol Lombard... Bill
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Got that old gnarly G78-14 spare and jack stuff all cleaned up and the new aluminum cover all installed... just like somebody came and did it. A quick wash and we went for a spin...
Got over to Neshota Beach for some sunny photo ops' and then around town for a while. Everthing was good till we got to dead mans curve...
Pedals to the floor hear his dual quads ring, that 413 is really startin' to scream. I got a plan of action but its understood, Ive got a Big Block Buick sittin' under my hood. Declinin' numbers at an even rate, at the count of one we both accelerate. POWER SHIFT HERE WE GO....
So it was bound to happen. I think a linkage arm dropped off; something simple. Only three blocks home and by the time I got there the heater meter was pegged and only had third gear and no power steering. That ol' motor with the forged pistons and rods held together. Been in the "window" business before LOL... Went back and got the busted fan belt. Pat said Ill never find it, hahaha. It was right at the end of the burnout LOL. Tomorrow is another day... Bill
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBtr956mmiE&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBtr956mmiE&feature=youtu.be)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qtKzKMDcjY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qtKzKMDcjY)
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After a little investigation this morning, I had an AH HA!!! Moment. Never expected to find this. It looks like it was cut and rewelded for what ever reason. Hell, it was a BW Super T10 with a FORD front snout on it. Why would anyone cut the rod and reweld it?
Now Im on another quest. Any HURST brand parts places recommended?? Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Thanks for taking the time to take the photos and videos. You certainly have some nice backdrops in your neck of the woods!
Sorry about the linkage failure. One of the manual transmission specialists on the board will have to help you with that one.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Ftenor.com%2Fview%2Fwaiting-bored-cute-baby-well-gif-14618861&psig=AOvVaw2BIXiOYaxbEWrHdiEQiypp&ust=1588984894880000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCKDikZiEo-kCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAI (https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Ftenor.com%2Fview%2Fwaiting-bored-cute-baby-well-gif-14618861&psig=AOvVaw2BIXiOYaxbEWrHdiEQiypp&ust=1588984894880000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCKDikZiEo-kCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAI)
Nuthin' yet... ws
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Picked up a NOS Hurst rod yesterday off ebay for 20.00 YIPPEE! Gonna try to go junking tomorrow before the weeds start growing! If anyone needs any smalls, sing out TODAY! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick parts hounds,
Picked up a NOS Hurst rod yesterday off ebay for 20.00 YIPPEE!
Congratulations! It pays to keep an eye on eBay!
Gonna try to go junking tomorrow before the weeds start growing! If anyone needs any smalls, sing out TODAY! Bill
Not a big surprise, but our weeds have already gone to seed! Good luck with your junk yard expeditions! Please take pictures!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hi Bill, Enjoying those photos, and the videos too. I'm going to take you up on the offer on the Junk Yard run tomorrow, I sent you a PM with a few items that I need. So please look at the PM and good luck tomorrow !! Good to hear that you found that shifter linkage on ebay, so you should be back out on the road soon..
Tony :thumbsup:
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Ol' yard is getting pretty well picked over. Did find one car for Edouard tho. Not too much left except that one weird piece of trim maybe! The glove box latch and door is intact but "kinda" promised to a guy up here on V8Buick... Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick parts hounds,
Ol' yard is getting pretty well picked over. Did find one car for Edouard tho. Not too much left except that one weird piece of trim maybe!
. . . .
Thanks for taking the time to take a few photos! Salvage yards are indeed getting rare and their contents consumed. At least it still looks like spring where you are at! :sunny:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Edouard;
I'm not offering, but there is a salvage yard not too distant from me that has a 65 Sport Wagon in it. Engine and transmission are gone, but most of the rest of it is there. Doors have rusted themselves tight (I couldn't open any doors). But just so you know this one has some parts available yet. Front bumper in the front view is pretty nice (probably fits all 65 Specials/Skylarks/Sport Wagons/Gran Sport, for all I know). See attached pics. Note this one also had AC, so the side vents and most likely air distribution/control inside still exists, as well as some (but not all) components from the engine bay.
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I think I'm losing it! I hope it was HERE, but a guy showed a pic of his 65(??) with a mid 80's steering column installed. Tilt with all the switches on the stalk etc and said it just about bolted in. I have the opportunity to pick up a 67 tilt for my 64. Anyone see any real difficulty swapping it over? (Not too worried about 4 way flashers). Can it be any worse than doing a trunk floor, rear window channel rebuild AND a paint job? Please find some kinda humor in there! Bill
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67 had a collapsible steering shaft and I believe a larger diameter housing. Maybe someone else here knows more about them...
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http://ctcautoranch.com/Parts%20Cars/Buick/Special%20-%20Skylark/Special%20-%20Skylark/1965%20Buick%20Skylark%20Station%20Wagon%20Parts%20Car%201/1965%20Buick%20Skylark%20Station%20Wagon%20Parts%20Car.html (http://ctcautoranch.com/Parts%20Cars/Buick/Special%20-%20Skylark/Special%20-%20Skylark/1965%20Buick%20Skylark%20Station%20Wagon%20Parts%20Car%201/1965%20Buick%20Skylark%20Station%20Wagon%20Parts%20Car.html)
There?s a yard here that claims they have a ?65 Sport Wagon, although I believe it?s actually a?64. If you look at the pics you can see pieces of ?65 front clip stuck in the cargo bay. The yard is spendy & they?re not the nicest guys to deal with, but they do pull & ship parts.
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Its a 65. The give-away that Ive found so far is the glove box door/lock. The 64's have the lock above the door in the dash and the 65's have the lock in the door; thats at a glance mind you!
Ill hafta do a bit more research on the column deal. A '67 guy on V8 swears they interchange (within reason); Im still curious about that 85ish conversion. Nobody else saw that? Bill
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I don't have direct experience with a 67 column, just heard there are differences. Maybe your other source knows what he's talking about, maybe he doesn't!
I found this thread on a Chevelle forum, shows a comparison of a 66 vs 67 column. The 66 is 2" tube, 67 is 2.25". There are also differences in the lower support plate and how the upper column attaches to the dash. It doesn't appear to be a simple swap!
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/45-chevelle-tech/267932-differnces-between-1966-1967-steering-columns.html (https://www.chevelles.com/forums/45-chevelle-tech/267932-differnces-between-1966-1967-steering-columns.html)
And some pics on eBay.... the 67/68 are supposedly the same:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-67-1968-68-BUICK-SKYLARK-GRAN-SPORT-GS-340-350-400-STEERING-COLUMN-CUSTOM/283874146022?hash=item421837b6e6:g:YY0AAOSwkhxephGA (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-67-1968-68-BUICK-SKYLARK-GRAN-SPORT-GS-340-350-400-STEERING-COLUMN-CUSTOM/283874146022?hash=item421837b6e6:g:YY0AAOSwkhxephGA)
And a 64-66 column pic on the bottom (again from eBay):
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Thanks for the time on this Walt! I can see the difference between the two and the commonality between the 67 and 68 jobs. I had a feeling the collapsing screen style was going to be the big factor. Just thought it would be an easier swap. Now, on another note did anyone else see that pic mentioned above. Maybe that later column was installed in a '67 afterall. Bill
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Dear 65GSConv, Bill, Sean, Walt, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
I'm not offering, but there is a salvage yard not too distant from me that has a 65 Sport Wagon in it. . . . . .
[There?s a yard here that claims they have a ?65 Sport Wagon, . . . .
Thanks for the references, but Biquette is back together and not missing anything. I really cannot collect too many spares. The house is full of junk as it is!
. . . . I have the opportunity to pick up a 67 tilt for my 64. Anyone see any real difficulty swapping it over? (Not too worried about 4 way flashers). . . . .
It is definitely not your style, but Biquette has a IDidIt aftermarket steering column with tilt.
https://www.ididitinc.com/ (https://www.ididitinc.com/)
The main advantage of an aftermarket column and associated linkage is that they go to a lot of trouble to take as little space as possible:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Header-to-steering-column-clea/i-TRcs8LV/0/ba43f217/L/IMG_3301-L.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Header-to-steering-column-clea/i-TRcs8LV/A)
I'm not sure anything else will work with the Stage-2 exhaust headers.
FYI . . . . . . . . . Edouard :occasion14:
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Bill, I wanted to mention the clutch/brake pedals are different for 1967, that would be another hurdle if you go with a 67 column.
I often use eBay to do research and get pics. While many listings may have incorrect info, you can weed those out by going with the majority.... find 5 '67 columns and 3 should have the correct info.
Chevelle and Pontiac forums are extremely helpful:
Team Chevelle at:
https://www.chevelles.com/ (https://www.chevelles.com/)
And the old Performance Years/now Ames MaxPerformance forum at:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/index.php (http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/index.php)
I have a ton of experience with 66's dating back to 1977 and a half dozen rebuilds, but like to confirm info before I post!
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The 67 column (second picture) attaches differently under the dash and it has a wider diameter then the 66 (first picture). I am sure the 67 column could be used with enough time and effort in an earlier car, but it is not going to be a direct swap. Some wiring, cutting and bracket fabrication would be required.
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Thanks fellas! A lot of time I switch from BLINDERS to rose colored glasses and overlook the obvious. Theres as much difference between these models as between the '64 and a lowly '63! There was absolutely no rush on this job; just getting stuff ready for next winters big adventure. Its good to have a nice warm shop to work in unless the state turns off or regulates natural gas volume sales. Remember Dick Nixon requesting us to keep the heat at 68F and wear a sweater? 73F in the wintertime up here is marginally comfortable! Anyways, Ill continue the search.
I am guessing most 64-65 GM "A" bodies will be closer? Howz about RIVs? There seams to be an abundance of those around up here. Just a thought!
Yesterday I got that shifter rod installed. Some one on V8 called it a :hybrid" model with modified arms on the trans and the rods as well. . Hmm. Laying the new one side by side with the busted one, the new one was about 1/8 to 1/4 inch too long to align the neutral pin for adjusting. No sweat right? I got a die nut on the threads and that bastard was hard as glass! No way was the die nut gonna touch that rod, and I wasn't gonna ruin the dye. Ended up taking it back out and puttin' it back the vise to give it a cold bend to shorten it up. HURST says to do it cold. That lousy 3/8 rod took all I could give it with a 12 inch adjustable handle on it to bend at all. I thought it was gonna bust and I was gonna go flyin'. TUFF STUFF. Even the sturdy bench and a REAL vise were moaning.
That worked swell, but the caveat (as always!) was that when putting that "C" clip back on the arm, BAYOINGGG, it went flying into the abyss of my tool box. I heard it hit and actually saw it go. Two hours later, the packed rollaround box was all cleaned out and re-organized, but no stinking clip. All 3 motor parts in town now close at noon on Saturday, and at 12:05 the race was on. All three actually unlocked the doors and helped me look to no avail. CRAP!
Sure as heck, I got home and there was that little bastard in the upper corner of that big tool box laughing at me! Three hours wasted for a Jesus clip. FWIW, I also unbolted the cross member and slid it back 6-8 inches to access the shifter. There just wasnt enough room for me and the rods at the same time. Hands are cut to ribbons now. Shoulda done that first. Completed that part and with new belts and 1-1/4 gallons of anti freeze we went for a spin and the shifter is actually smoother than before. Mustve been that home made rod eh? Today I hope to get down to some serious work... a nice nap and garage cleaning LOL... Bill
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If you shifted into third with the same enthusiasm that you use for reverse......your toys would last longer. Did you dent the dash when it broke?
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This all happened with the first full blown redline power shift from 1 to 2. The bench seat cushioned the blow! After hunting around with the new born "mystery shifter" it slid into 3rd with little effort and we finished up the 4 block roll nome w/o PS and 3rd and 4th gear, making a few lock to lock turns in the yard to get into the shop with a red hot motor... blew both the belts off. The PS belt was hanging on the crank pulley but we went back with my truck to find the busted water pump belt; right at the end of the burn out !
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"This all happened with the first full blown redline power shift from 1 to 2. ..."
Giving proper application to the old adage: "Hit it hard. If it breaks, it needed fixing anyway."
The previous owner was a wuss.
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Yeah man... a wuss and a shitty welder. It was pretty obvious why it failed after the fact. There was evidence of another repair/change on that rod also so I wasnt taking a chance.
Im glad I had the rotor balanced, forged rods weighed and balanced (big and small ends) and forged T/A pistons. Coulda been wayyyy worser. Bill
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Yeah, when pistons start swapping holes while revved so high only the pooches can hear it, your fun meter will be bouncing the stops.
I have become too old and cheap to not use a rev limiter now.
Back when I was a whippersnapper, we used valve springs as rev limiters...
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Valves floating on an SBC are one thing, but BBBs dont like the spins... ws
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I know that. It was humor.
I'm out.
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Naw man... yer "in"! I was just thinking how racing technique has changed. When the SBCs were racing, the staged light would come on, then as soon as the tree would decline, the drivers would simply floor the car to WOT and dump the clutch on the green light. You could hear those valves floating at 10K. I think "dynamically" thats all the air a SBC could inhale back then! Bill
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WOW! Its been two weeks so I guess its time for an update...
Pretty much have the boat squared away with mmy pal from Dwight, Il. being the first "boatel" guest this year. He came up for the Manitowoc Covid 19 2020 car cruise in town this past weekend. The cruise was just an "ad hoc" drive around town thats' course was about 5 miles. Seriously tho, probably 1000 vehicles showed up, and for the most part were behaving OK. Two squad cars on duty and no one got busted altho the crotch rockets were out in force, and all the farm boys had to show off rolling coal. Lotsa burnouts. I kept the BADLASS down to forst gear demonstrations only. Lotsa pedestrians and traffic. Had to use a little (very?) common sense.
A few coffee can jobs with turbos running at WOT with the waste gate wide open fartin' and hissin'. Had one right next to me for a few blocks and I got annoyed. A 5000 rpm hole shot for a full block with 465 inches of air through the 850 Q jet shamed him into turning off on a side street. Maybe he was delivering pizzas LOL...
Did a few garage sales and found one with some 1964 chevelle smalls, but there was this 1500 LB trailer hitch for the rear bumper. I held it up to the BADLASS and the fuel fill pipe was totally in the way. I woulda bought it but wasnt sure what it fits. I was thinking BIQUETTE. If anyone wants it, I have the sellers info and can "probably" go back for it. No guarantees its still there now. At 1500lbs, good for a pop up or motorcycle trailer anyways.
Just a few photo OPs along the way. BADLASS did well all weekend even with several severe floggings; hafta keep bad girls in line right??? Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
WOW! Its been two weeks so I guess its time for an update...
Thanks for the update!
Did a few garage sales and found one with some 1964 chevelle smalls, but there was this 1500 LB trailer hitch for the rear bumper. I held it up to the BADLASS and the fuel fill pipe was totally in the way. I woulda bought it but wasnt sure what it fits. I was thinking BIQUETTE. If anyone wants it, I have the sellers info and can "probably" go back for it. No guarantees its still there now. At 1500lbs, good for a pop up or motorcycle trailer anyways.
Thanks for thinking of me but I had a custom class-IV hitch receiver built for Biquette at the same time she got her dual exhaust:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-dual-exhaust-system/i-LrgSM37/0/35f5b57c/XL/IMG_3112-XL.jpg) (https://canebas.smugmug.com/Biquette/Drive-Train-makeover/Biquettes-dual-exhaust-system/i-LrgSM37/A)
Just a few photo OPs along the way. BADLASS did well all weekend even with several severe floggings; hafta keep bad girls in line right???
Thanks for the pictures! On the third photo there is a US World War II fleet submarine in the background - which sub did they preserve?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Bill that looks great with the trim back on it. Its a trip back to 1964 (when I was two).
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Thanks Doc! Every now and then I find another chunk to toss at it... still being fun! The work starts next October; Chapter III
Thanks for the pictures! On the third photo there is a US World War II fleet submarine in the background - which sub did they preserve?
Hey Ed... thats the USS COBIA. Actually built at Electric boat in 1943 I believe, its identical to the 28 subs built by Manitowoc Ship in town here. She saw South Pacific service, and unfortunately is closed due to this flu thing everyone is talking about. Across the lake is the USS SILVERSIDES. Another museum boat in Muskegon, Mich. Bill
https://www.google.com/search?q=uss+cobia&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS856US856&oq=USS+COBIA&aqs=chrome.0.0l8.4943j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 (https://www.google.com/search?q=uss+cobia&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS856US856&oq=USS+COBIA&aqs=chrome.0.0l8.4943j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
Ol' Pops was a EMD test engineer and test ran several of these units that were powered as this one is with Cleveland 278A engines. The other subs were powered by Fairbanks Morse 38D, 8-1/8; as is the SILVERSIDES. Those are twin crankshaft opposed piston jobs. Both deliver around 1000 horses.
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Dear Bill, Good Dr., and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Hey Ed... thats the USS COBIA. Actually built at Electric boat in 1943 I believe, its identical to the 28 subs built by Manitowoc Ship in town here. She saw South Pacific service, and unfortunately is closed due to this flu thing everyone is talking about. Across the lake is the USS SILVERSIDES. Another museum boat in Muskegon, Mich.
Thanks for the pointer! Here is the link to museum's main page on their submarines:
https://www.wisconsinmaritime.org/submarines/ (https://www.wisconsinmaritime.org/submarines/)
I didn't even know any seagoing vessels were built in fresh water locations! It staggers the imagination the extent the United States was mobilized for World War II.
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Pretty cool eh? Keep reading Ed! The MLWD (Mean Low Water Datum) on all the inland seas and rivers is 12 feet. Thats not to mean they cant be 1200 feet deep, but the guarantee is a 12 foot minimum. Empty ships on the lake draw up to 12 feet EMPTY, but the rivers are held in "pools" via the locks and dams. Full ships on the lakes need to pay particular attention to drafts when transiting harbors and channel marked reefs etc.
After building the subs, and some ships, the conning towers and pilot houses had to be added later due to "air clearances" on the bridges.
The subs draw about 20 feet and some ships also draw more than the 12 so they were delivered under power to Chicago, then "dismasted" and slipped into "drydock barges" and floated to New Orleans Naval Yard for delivery. Going east the St Lawrence seaway wasnt opened yet so the Erie Canal was used. The MLWD there is about 10 feet with air gaps on certain bridges at less than 20 feet... more planning ahead. Some of these numbers have changed in the last 75 years (!) but you get the idea.
So the old man was a test engineer for EMD and compiled performance data for the Navy on deliveries, my mom was the cook on board for the entire 2-3 week delivery run, AND her first husband (she was widowed in 1950) was the delivery captain. Thats where they all met up!
Subs, sub chasers, mine sweepers, and tugboats were barq' de guerre (sp) built on the lakes. The pics below are with mom and her first husband Art Z., Art Z. giving orders aboard a newly launched PC at far right (sub chaser) PC 538 and the PC 537 on sea trials on Lake Michigan. :icon_salut: :icon_salut: Bill
https://researchandideas.com/index.php?title=America%27s_Fresh_Water_Submarines
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Fantastic interesting information! Thanks for sharing.
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Sorry I havent been around too much lately... Yesterday out 10 year old Boston terrier, BULLITT the wonder dog died on my lap at home from advanced canine leukemia. At first, a month ago, it was a bad sinus infection. Then Monday due to a terrible weight loss and blood test, he was diagnosed with 2 weeks to a month to go. The poor guy lasted two days. We had him scheduled to see the Vet that afternoon to end his suffering at 3:30 but he passed at 11:30. He was soo weak; his last move was to look up into my eyes and say goodbye. He was gone. He's jammin' gears across the rainbow bridge as we speak.
He was buried in our raspberry patch that he loved so much in a nice sunny spot with his favorite blanky and big ol' hambone; he loved laying in the sun too. RIP old buddy... :angel4: :angel4: Bill and Pat
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Sorry for your loss Bill.
Dogs truly are our best friends, they understand us better than we do ourselves, their always there and they never complain.
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My condolences to you and Pat. Losing a close companion like Bullitt is difficult.
Dan
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Sorry to hear about this. Glad you have fond memories!
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Condolences to you and Pat. Dogs are family members and it's really sad to lose them. RIP Bullitt!
Chuck
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My condolences...RIP Bullitt
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I sure am sorry to hear about Bullitt. Hope y'all are doing ok. Condolences.
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Im sure he's ready for that power shift into 4th at the rainbow bridge just about now! Thanks guys! He was a mold breaker thats for sure! RIP pal! On the couch keeping his slicks warmed up LOL... :occasion14: Bill
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Bill and Pat,
So sorry to hear of your loss. Those little friends certainly leave their paw prints on our hearts.
Loren
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Dear Bill and Pat,
Belated condolences from me. Everyone else has said it better than I could.
Edouard
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Bill And Pat, Pets become part of our families and when they pass on they take our hearts with them..
Tony
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Thanks Tony! Our other Boston BONER and the labradoodle Chewbacca have been in mourning for the last two days. They were making me feel guilty, but are starting to come around now. Time heals as they say... ill
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My new 2020 coupe showed up last night. Built just east of Memphis, its a black and white hardtop with a SBB and a 4 speed. Runs a little wam and no AC but a blast to drive. Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
My new 2020 coupe showed up last night. Built just east of Memphis, its a black and white hardtop with a SBB and a 4 speed. Runs a little wam and no AC but a blast to drive.
Congratulations! . . . :hello2:
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink_smile_triangle.gif) . .. . . But aren't you a bit worried about all that newfangled electronics that comes with new cars? . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Laughing_LOL.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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As long as the "chinachip" doesnt need to get booted up, I'll hafta put my faith in it. Definitely, four on the floor! Bill
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Just got an email from the guy that makes this stuff. These are supposed to be for my 1964 Special. Just passing this along! Bill
https://www.ebay.com/itm/62-72-GM-Body-Side-Belt-Molding-Moulding-Bath-Tub-Style-Trim-Clips-10pcs-TE/193571781566?hash=item2d11c6fbbe:g:J~EAAOSwZQ1fBZqV:sc:USPSFirstClass (https://www.ebay.com/itm/62-72-GM-Body-Side-Belt-Molding-Moulding-Bath-Tub-Style-Trim-Clips-10pcs-TE/193571781566?hash=item2d11c6fbbe:g:J~EAAOSwZQ1fBZqV:sc:USPSFirstClass)!54241!US!-1
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
Just got an email from the guy that makes this stuff.
. . . .
Never mind that! :laughing7: What's da' latest news on BADLASS and your new 2020 coupe?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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The new coupe has a few nuisance leaks that we are attending to LOL. Nothing a paper towel wont remedy but not covered under warranty :overthetop: BADLASS is alive and well and looking better all the time. Catalyzed finishes are weird. As the cure, they shrink. Overall a 2-3% shrinkage over the whole car makes them look "tighter" and less "juicy". I figured that out with my boat stuff.
I was trying to negotiate a trade for my 1978 HD dresser for a 1967 special wagon with a 300/auto from CA>! now in Illinois. The guy wants to downsize his toys so that was a no-go. Trades still open to a Buick wagon for Pat. Sportwagons are cool or even a big sled. Feel free to pass that along. I just cant ride anymore with the bad bones. Made 50 miles last year and about 5 so far this year. This guy needs the 455 job and a dash hanger AC unit LOL... Bill
https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/d/watseka-1967-buick-wagon/7153295319.html
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At least its a deuce coupe thats leaking....my Semi weighs about 150 and leaves piles of black soot where I just mowed. Wife supposedly likes the truck more than me,but thinks about scrapping him some days. Now that the blue is cured out,you could go finer on your wetsand like 1500 and use a foam pad.
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Dear Bill, Dan, and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
The new coupe has a few nuisance leaks that we are attending to LOL. Nothing a paper towel wont remedy but not covered under warranty.
Alas that is a known hazard of these brand new models . .. . :laughing7:
BADLASS is alive and well and looking better all the time. . . . .
Good to hear!
I was trying to negotiate a trade for my 1978 HD dresser for a 1967 special wagon with a 300/auto from CA>! now in Illinois. The guy wants to downsize his toys so that was a no-go. . . . .
Glad you have an itch for a wagon, but while your at it, be a bit more choosy and stick to a 1964-65. You get a lot more chrome to polish! . . . :sunny:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers who use their cars for practical errands,
Yo Guys! Its been a bit for me here... had a busy summer. Getting close to Buick yome again, and have to choose between the 64 and the 72 for some seasonal work; the other goes into storage.
. . . .
(http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/wink.gif) . . . . . . So are you going to let us vote on which car stays out to play and which end up back in storage? . . . . . . . . (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/big_laugh.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Sorry guys, but we've been busy with tons of med issues etc...This isnt mine but its close enough to put eyes on it if YOU make the arrangements... Bill
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/636576373665560 (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/636576373665560)
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers who sometimes need to be human caregivers,
Sorry guys, but we've been busy with tons of med issues etc...
Sorry to hear that! I hope that you and Pat and making the best of situation.
This isnt mine but its close enough to put eyes on it if YOU make the arrangements... Bill
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/636576373665560 (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/636576373665560)
Am I reading this ad correctly? The description says "mileage unknown" but the ad reports: "Driven 1,000,000 miles."
Unless this is another example of Facebook fake news, this car looks in really great shape for having been driven one million miles . . . . . :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Having a tuff time getting back into the swing since getting my toes stepped on by the "other" powers that be, Even those that perv here will know what Im saying.
So how about a little trivia?? ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who dig a bit of trivia,
. . . .
So how about a little trivia?? ws
Thanks for sharing! I wasn't aware of the story, but it is the sort of thing that makes good sense starting during the war. It is cute how the British phrase "dicey" ended up launching something so very different.
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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BLIMEY!! Righto Mate !! :cheers2: ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers,
So what's new in your neck of the woods? Back in September you told us:
Yo Guys! Its been a bit for me here... had a busy summer. Getting close to Buick yome again, and have to choose between the 64 and the 72 for some seasonal work; the other goes into storage.
. . . .
So which car is still on the active roster and which is hibernating for the winter? Any other interesting tidbits to help get us through the long cold winter?
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hey Ed... been meaning to check in here a little more often. Been a crazy year and this winter has been no exception. A "case of life" got in the way and the bottles are non refundable LOL. I managed to get everything put away last fall, which in itself is no small undertaking, then around last October things got crazy. Had a bunch of teeth yanked and new choppers made, then a pal bought a 2000 HP 100 foot harbor tug and needed an engineer. That job is part time but pays ca$h at a handsome rate; and thats paying for some of my own work on my boat. Changing out a bunch of wood panels in the pilot house for 1/8" aluminum. AS I age, these projects are tending to become once and done now. A 4 x 10 sheet of 1/8" Al is almost 400.00 and I needed 3 sheets. YIKES!!
The rest of the work around here is semi normal with the cars, being almost done, are on the warming burner. This next few weeks we are faced with real winter with daytime highs reaching ZERO F. Thats time for some Buick work in the Fortress of Solitude. Just a few minor jobs on the interior and then pull the intake off the BADLASS and uncork the heat cross-overs in the heads to the intake manifold. When I built this motor 2 years ago, I made the mistake of listening to some rocket scientists across the hall, when I knew better.
The ol' gal really runs well, BUT, takes forever to warm up to a "driveable" state. That manifold needs heating. THEN, the choke and fast idle will work as designed. As it stands now, it starts right up but I need to nurse the fast peddle to keep it running for 15 minutes and the another 15-20 around town before she calms down. Lotsa bucking and jerking until that point. To a stranger, it would look like Im "new on the clutch" haha.
Anyways, best wishes to all here, and I sure hope 2021 is not the bust they are predicting. I promise Ill get back on here and post some pics and some commentary about the Buick Nazi's on other boards LOL. OOPS! can I say that?? I cant explain it myself, but I hear marbles rolling around inside! Bill
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick caregivers who keep finding that "life" keeps getting in da' way . . . . . :BangHead:
Hey Ed... been meaning to check in here a little more often. Been a crazy year and this winter has been no exception. A "case of life" got in the way and the bottles are non refundable LOL.
. . . .
Sadly well understood. I'm definitely feeling like when it comes to that sort of "life" - I'm also way over my quota as well!
. . .
A pal bought a 2000 HP 100 foot harbor tug and needed an engineer. That job is part time but pays ca$h at a handsome rate; and thats paying for some of my own work on my boat.
I'm glad that the tug has worked out to your advantage! Although I always have to wonder about those "modelers" that stubbornly insist on models which are at 12" to the foot! :laughing7:
Changing out a bunch of wood panels in the pilot house for 1/8" aluminum. AS I age, these projects are tending to become once and done now. A 4 x 10 sheet of 1/8" Al is almost 400.00 and I needed 3 sheets. YIKES!!
Unfortunately your problem is that you aren't alone is switching to aluminum. I would expect that demand for aluminum is growing while refining capacity isn't being expanded. It takes a lot of energy to refine aluminum from ore and we aren't expanding our electrical generating capacity in a manner that supports plants running 24/7.
The rest of the work around here is semi normal with the cars, being almost done, are on the warming burner. This next few weeks we are faced with real winter with daytime highs reaching ZERO F. Thats time for some Buick work in the Fortress of Solitude. Just a few minor jobs on the interior and then pull the intake off the BADLASS and uncork the heat cross-overs in the heads to the intake manifold. When I built this motor 2 years ago, I made the mistake of listening to some rocket scientists across the hall, when I knew better.
The ol' gal really runs well, BUT, takes forever to warm up to a "driveable" state. That manifold needs heating. THEN, the choke and fast idle will work as designed. As it stands now, it starts right up but I need to nurse the fast peddle to keep it running for 15 minutes and the another 15-20 around town before she calms down. Lotsa bucking and jerking until that point. To a stranger, it would look like Im "new on the clutch" haha.
Sorry about your engine warm-up problem. Yes, I understand the misfortunes of bad advice. Even so, big-block engines simply need additional time to warm up. Even if the EFI system seems to make Biquette usable after less than a minute of warm up, I prefer to allow her to warm up a few minutes to bring the RPM down a bit before setting off.
Anyways, best wishes to all here, and I sure hope 2021 is not the bust they are predicting.
*Heavy sigh*, . . . . . I'm definitely with you, but alas the news (and science generating said news) isn't particularly encouraging. Given the dubious quality of science these days, perhaps we all should be praying for the second coming to get us out of this mess! (http://www.canebas.org/WeatherCat/Forum_support_documents/Custom_emoticons/Angelic_smiley_small.gif)
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners who also have a soft spot for external combustion engines,
Classic Trains Magazine mentioned that Chesapeake and Ohio 1309 has recently been restored and is streaming once more! It is a true Mallet type 2-6-6-2 locomotive weighing in at 434,900 lbs. It is the largest working steam locomotive in the Eastern part of the United States. Wikipedia as more specifications then you can shake a stick at:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chesapeake_and_Ohio_1309 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chesapeake_and_Ohio_1309)
It is now owned by the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad who did the restoration. Here is their webpage on their new pride and joy!
https://wmsr.com/1309-restoration/ (https://wmsr.com/1309-restoration/)
They even have a video of their new baby in action:
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=676765163003748 (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=676765163003748)
If you don't like Facebook, here is a video on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/qTUctO8PqI8 (https://youtu.be/qTUctO8PqI8)
That should definitely warm the heart of any steam enthusiast!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
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Hhahaha! ws
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Dear Bill and mid-60s Buick owners with a funny bone . . .
Hhahaha! ws
Thanks for sharing! That gives a whole new meaning to being "in over your head" with Buicks! :laughing7:
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14: