65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => Q & A => Topic started by: 1971 on November 08, 2015, 10:33:48 PM
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Need some help from you Buick GS experts on this website,
I'm overhauling the brakes on my wife's 1965 Buick Skylark GS and have a few questions for you "Buick GS Experts". The brake system is a single master cylinder (standard brakes) and all original. Are the brake lines (metal) the same on the Skylark and GS? Also, could someone give me the diameters of all the metal brake lines? I've found a number of brake parts companies that offer brake lines; Right Stuff, Classic Tube, Inline Tube, and the Parts Place. Can someone recommend one of these? Also, can someone give me there opinion of silicon versus standard brake fluid? For now I'm keeping the brake system original. I've got a lot of help from you Buick guys in the past and would appreciate any recommendations. thanks, Richard
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Richard,
My understanding from past posts on this site is that InLine Tube has the best brake lines for the GS. They are an exact match and high quality. You can get either stainless or regular metal. If you are redoing all of the brake components be aware that the front wheel cylinders are GS specific.
Dan
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A GS would use the same lines for all body styles as a convertible.
Line from master cylinder to the block on the frame is 1/4".
All others are 3/16".
As for fluid, there are many opinions. Normal brake fluid is corrosive and hydroscopic, meaning it likes water. This is what causes the fluid to turn color, because it attracts moisture. Even in a sealed system, it absorbs moisture past the seals. This causes the lines to deteriorate/ rust, from the inside out.
Silicon fluid is not corrosive and is not hydroscopic. Two plus's, but it does have some draw backs.
Link to information on using silicon DOT5. http://www.muskegonbrake.com/corvette/converting-silicone-brake-fluid (http://www.muskegonbrake.com/corvette/converting-silicone-brake-fluid)
Loren
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GM did increase the diameter of the long front-to-rear brake line in 1967 from 3/16" to 1/4". 1967was also when they switched from the single cylinder to the the dual cylinder master cylinder. I've never come across an explanation as to whether there is a benefit to the larger line.
I've purchased lines from 'The Right Stuff' a dozen years ago. A few lines were wrong, but their service in fixing the issue was outstanding. 'Mr Sunset' on V8 Buick bought a '67 line set from Inline Tube and several of those were wrong as well. Inline has earned some negative ratings due to their sometimes difficult service, but perhaps that has been remedied since then.
I just make my own brake lines now. A roll of tubing is under $30 from NAPA. Fairly easy to bend to match the originals. I buy the correct fittings and protective spiral wrap from one of the on-line vendors.
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Thanks Walt, I corrected that.
Loren
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I'll add some fuel to the fire.
I used Inline Tube for all the brake & fuel hard lines. I bought lines first from nearly all the other makers of repro hard lines:
Classic Tube, Right Stuff, etc. Only Inline Tube had lines that fit and looked like the Buick originals. The only issue I had was with
the long front to back brake line. I sent my original to Inline Tube to copy and it came back fitting about 98% per the original.
It needed a little tweaking to get it the way it should be.
The lines were purchased over 15 years ago now, so things could have changed a lot since then. I had no issues working with Inline,
and have read feedback about them on some of the other forums.
Working on another non-Buick project now that will need a line set - changing from manual drum to power front disc.
i will post back what I find on that one, plan is to go back to Inline Tube. Per Walt, I should just bend them up, but I did one rear
axle line a few weeks ago and the time doing it, about 90 minutes cutting, bending, flaring, could be spent on something else.
Or I'm just slow!
Mark
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"Or I'm just slow!"
Aren't we all, count me in at least.
As I remember the stainless lines are a PITA to get tight.
Loren
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I'm not getting any faster with age either!
Affirmative on the stainless, they need to be cranked down hard. I had a couple that leaked and needed several extra "pulls" to get tight.
Used DOT 5 as well. You can bleed fairly mess-free with DOT 3 if you use some vacuum hose on the bleeders draining into a pan.
Mark
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To Dan, Loren, Walt, and Mark;
Thanks for your responses and great information. My wife is patiently waiting for me to finish her GS. I'm a little slow but I pay attention to detail.
again thanks, Richard
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Here's trick when working with stainless steel line's.
To seat the fittings don't just tighten! Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen several times while progressively torquing tighter each time. If it still leaks do the procedure again.
We used this procedure on Navy aircraft with 3000 psi stainless steel hydraulic lines. It allows the fitting and lines to seat. To much torque will distort or crack fittings.