65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => Q & A => Topic started by: Arthur on November 07, 2016, 10:24:46 AM
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My carburetor goes dry after driving and sitting overnight. Is there a special heat gasket that should go between the carburetor and manifold to reduce the bowl from boiling the fuel away? I do not run the corn fuel. Help!
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Arthur,
Join the club! I have two GS's and both seem to go dry very quickly. It seems the current fuel is more volatile and evaporates more rapidly. I'm not aware of a fix, but I'm all ears if you find one!
Chuck
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The AFB's on mine are fine for overnight, or next day, operation. Typically one pump and the car starts right up. Beyond one day though and it will take a while to come to life.
There is supposed to be a thin stainless plate between the intake and carb gasket. The intention, I think, is to block off the heat passages at the front of the intake.
Dan
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I'm planning on adding a small electric fuel pump to augment the stock mechanical fuel pump.
It will be installed up front just after the metal line leaves the frame rail. Will be wired (through a relay) into the switches on the gas pedal linkage..... when pedal is floored pump will turn on. Will work when starting- turn on ignition, press pedal to floor for a few seconds to fill carb, and when driving when pedal is floored. It will flow fuel even when it is powered off so it shouldn't interfere with mech pump operation.
Can also serve as a backup if the mech pump fails on a roadtrip.
Here's the pump I bought, Airtex E8016s:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1LW0E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1LW0E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
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Where can I get that stainless steel plate? My car has had this problem since the 70s. Most likely started after I rebuilt the carb and left something out. I have always had to pump the heck out of it however it always fires. The fuel back when then started was not all that bad so I hope there is a fix.
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Try Carmen Faso in New York.
You'll have to call him. He doesn't do internet.
Phone number is 716-693-4090
Loren
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Have the same issues with hard starting. Added an electric pump on the frame rail with a switch mounted under the dash and still running the original fuel pump. Not much help in starting. Question, the electric pump is only pushing the fuel to the original pump, correct? The original pump still has to push the fuel to the carb and fill the bowl which still causes hard starting. You see guys with other brands of cars hit the switch and the car starts right now. Kind of makes you MAD as you sit and crank.
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I've seen Vince trying to start his GS, it's hard to watch. Then I try to start my BBC and it's even more painful.
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Kevin,
Be careful who you're calling "Vince". Glenn might not be impressed! :-)
Yeah, my Cobra replica has an electric fuel pump and it sure makes me wish I could do the same with my GS.
Glenn, you make a good point about the location of the two pumps in the system. I bet Walt will have an answer for us!
Chuck
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Where can I get that stainless steel plate? My car has had this problem since the 70s. Most likely started after I rebuilt the carb and left something out. I have always had to pump the heck out of it however it always fires. The fuel back when then started was not all that bad so I hope there is a fix.
The SS plate was being remade by an outfit in WI as recently as last year. I'll try and dig up the info.
Mark
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The stainless plate and carb gasket are available from Russ Martin on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-nailhead-1966-1967-401-425-400-430-Q-jet-Quardrajet-Carburetor-heat-plate-/131986859872?hash=item1ebb07a760:g:3PAAAOSwstxVaSGh (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-nailhead-1966-1967-401-425-400-430-Q-jet-Quardrajet-Carburetor-heat-plate-/131986859872?hash=item1ebb07a760:g:3PAAAOSwstxVaSGh)
Unsure if an electric fuel pump can push fuel through a mechanical pump, I'll have to look into that!
If that is a problem, the elec pump outlet could be tee'd into the fuel line between the mech pump and carb. The Airtex pump does have an internal check valve to prevent back flow through it.
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Just call me fat finger Kevin. Sorry Vinnie breakfast is on me Wednesday.
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Kevin, I will have my usual for breakfast. Thanks Chuck.
Walt, your idea of teeing into the fuel line above the mechanical pump would also require a tee in the line between the mechanical and electric pump, if I am thinking correct, because there is only one fuel line. What will that bypass line do to the mechanical pump when the electric pump is not pumping? just more questions to figure out.
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If you just drive it every day it should start fine.....lol. I don't think it matters if it's an AFB,Edellbrock replica,or a Holley .....if it sits you'll be priming it with fresh gas or cranking it. Mine seemed a lot better after a carb rebuild and new fuel pump,but it does not fire right up after sitting a few weeks. The only carb I have that functions that well is a quadrajet. I would say the pump and a good screen in the tank are the first things to look at if you are cranking too long.If you can take the fuel line off at the filter and do not see good flow after cranking several seconds,the carb is not your biggest problem. If you're just headed to breakfast and back I would recommend riding with Glenn because I know his car starts.
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This has been a problem with these carbs. since day one. Today it's even worse because the fuel evaporates so much faster. One thing no one has mentioned is the heat riser valve. If it's stuck closed or partially closed it will cause the carb. to get MUCH hotter than normal. With the way these cars are driven today they are really not needed. Same with the stainless plate. Just plug the holes.
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You are dealing with over 50 years old Technology! Sometimes we are so use to modern fuel injection that when we drive a old car we forget how they run and react differently! The fuels,tires and etc.. are different! I have been driving my Post GS with no power steering! What a bear my forearms and elbows are screaming but are getting stronger ! Lol But I love It! Running it through the gears and smashing it to the mat!
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I removed the heat riser valve back in the 70s and I still have the issue of the carb going dry and requiring pumping. I kept the valve but never felt to install in again.
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Some other things to consider and check that would cause hard starting or rough running would be sending unit, fuel pump and accelerator pump in carb! I had one car that didnt seem to run like it should even though I checked the fuel pump etc.. I thought the fuel pump was working properly ,but it was actually weak not the right volume or pressure! Once changed out car ran and started like it should!