Author Topic: Clock and brakes  (Read 2575 times)

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Offline atbelair55

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Clock and brakes
« on: May 05, 2010, 10:39:08 PM »
My clock does not work and wondering what other GS owners have done about it?
Also how difficult is it to convert manual  brakes to power ones?
Thanks
Dave65

Offline kcombs

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2010, 01:45:31 AM »
Different master cylinder and brake line to the brass distribution block on the frame. You need vacuum from behind the carb, I bought a fitting at the local auto parts store. I then routed the vacuum hose under the throttle rod to the carb. Make sure you have enough vacuum hose so it pushes the hose down so it does not interfere with the throttle. I find the hardest part is working under the dashboard with the clip that holds the pin in place which goes through the brake pedal.

Now if you are going to convert to a dual master cylinder or disc brakes there are many more issues to deal with. I am complete that conversion on my ride in the next couple of weeks, so I will share my experience on this site soon.
Kurt
65 Bucamino
65 two door post (parts?)
65 Special wagon

Offline kcombs

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2010, 01:48:16 AM »
Oh, about the clock, just buy a clock delete and you won't have to worry about it.....  :icon_biggrin: That is my solution.
Kurt
65 Bucamino
65 two door post (parts?)
65 Special wagon

Offline gssizzler

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2010, 02:51:33 AM »
Sometimes a good cleaning helps or have it converted to quartz movement!
« Last Edit: May 06, 2010, 02:55:40 AM by gssizzler »

Offline Brian

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2010, 07:06:20 AM »
Take the clock out, carefully bend back the tabs that hold the rear housing on it, then spray all the gears inside with WD-40 and it is almost guaranteed to start working again.  You will have to repeat that process every couple of years to keep it working.  You may also have to carefully clean the points in it to (they are what cocks it back every two minutes).  Best way to clean them is to use a really small file. Be very careful doing this though because everthing in that clock is very delicate and if you bend or damage anything in there, it will stop working and at that point is not fixable--I know this from experience!
'64 Skylark 2dr ht 4 speed, 300-4
'65 GS ht, 4 speed,2-4s,AC,PS,PB,PW,Pseat,Tilt
'66 Skylark 2dr ht 300-2 automatic
'78 Yamaha DT 400 2 stroke
'88 Ford F-150 4x4 (used to be 4x2)
'89 Ford F-350 4x4
'03 Honda Accord Coupe V6 6-speed manual (daily driver)

Offline campfamily

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2010, 08:33:10 AM »
Is it difficult to get to the clock?
65 Skylark GranSport, Convertible, Burgundy Mist, White Interior, Mostly Original, 70,000 miles

Offline Brian

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2010, 12:13:06 PM »
Two screws with 1/4" hex heads on them.  You will need a 1/4" box end wrench and a little patience to get it out.  Need a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the adjusting shaft so you can screw the knob off in front of the speedo lens.
  On factory AC cars, you will have to take out the distribution plenum and the flexible duct to the drivers side to get at the clock. 
'64 Skylark 2dr ht 4 speed, 300-4
'65 GS ht, 4 speed,2-4s,AC,PS,PB,PW,Pseat,Tilt
'66 Skylark 2dr ht 300-2 automatic
'78 Yamaha DT 400 2 stroke
'88 Ford F-150 4x4 (used to be 4x2)
'89 Ford F-350 4x4
'03 Honda Accord Coupe V6 6-speed manual (daily driver)

Offline campfamily

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2010, 02:57:17 PM »
So, it doesn't require removal of the dashboard?  My car does have factory air.
65 Skylark GranSport, Convertible, Burgundy Mist, White Interior, Mostly Original, 70,000 miles

Offline Brian

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2010, 02:59:55 PM »
I can be removed from the back without taking the instrument cluster out.  You have to stand on your head and reach up under the dash to get to it though.   The AC diverter duct has two screws holding it on, then you have to get the duct to the drivers side out of the way so you can see up in there and get your hand up to it. 
'64 Skylark 2dr ht 4 speed, 300-4
'65 GS ht, 4 speed,2-4s,AC,PS,PB,PW,Pseat,Tilt
'66 Skylark 2dr ht 300-2 automatic
'78 Yamaha DT 400 2 stroke
'88 Ford F-150 4x4 (used to be 4x2)
'89 Ford F-350 4x4
'03 Honda Accord Coupe V6 6-speed manual (daily driver)

Offline GSDavid

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2010, 04:46:51 PM »
This place will fix your clock for $50.  An additional $30 if the coil is bad.
 http://www.clockwks.com/The_Clock_Worx.html
They can also replace it with OEM movement for $250? I think it was.

I am probably going to send my clock in to them.

Offline Loren At 65GS

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2010, 10:30:13 PM »
I did just what Brian has done, mine ran for about 10 years or so. Need to clean it again.
As Brian pointed out "be careful", the little tabs break off ease.

Loren
65 GS hardtop BCA Senior
 65 GS thin pillar coupe
 65 Skylark coupe v-6
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Offline atbelair55

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2010, 01:29:16 AM »
Thanks for all the information.
Dave65
PS looking for chrome right mirror without paying a fortune.
Any ideas?

Offline GSDavid

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Re: Clock and brakes
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2010, 12:36:28 AM »
If you find a source for the mirror, please share.

Offline atbelair55

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Re: side right mirror
« Reply #13 on: May 16, 2010, 04:30:43 PM »
I found a nice one on Classic Chevy for under $30.
Dave65