General Discussion > How To's
Cleaning original rubber pieces
Loren At 65GS:
I tried something different yesterday for cleaning a couple of original rubber pieces. I've found it difficult to get original rubber pieces to clean up well. Yesterday, I tried something different. I used CLR. It is a product for removing Calcium, Lime and Rust. I soaked these rear bumper rubber pads in it overnight. I was surprised by how clean they came out and seem to be more flexible as well.
Thought i would pass this on for others that reuse some original rubber parts. Attached are before and after pictures.
Loren
Jimbo65:
Good to know info.
elagache:
Dear Loren and mid-60s Buick restorers,
--- Quote from: Loren At 65GS on November 29, 2021, 11:14:32 AM ---I tried something different yesterday for cleaning a couple of original rubber pieces. I've found it difficult to get original rubber pieces to clean up well. Yesterday, I tried something different. I used CLR. It is a product for removing Calcium, Lime and Rust. I soaked these rear bumper rubber pads in it overnight. I was surprised by how clean they came out and seem to be more flexible as well.
Thought i would pass this on for others that reuse some original rubber parts. Attached are before and after pictures.
--- End quote ---
Very interesting Loren! I assume this is the product in question:
https://clrbrands.com/Products/CLR-Household/CLR-Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover
. . . . Okay, I'll admit I just made a terrible mistake - I read the instructions! . . .
At first inspection, the stuff seems really aggressive. So that sent me to the product safety data sheet where my rusty memories of college chemistry promptly proved inadequate. All I could locate was the PH. This product is different from many cleaners in that it is mildly acidic. Most degreasers are caustic (high PH.)
Having failed, I went back to the product description where here is a list of ingredients and what they do in "plain language." There are the usual degreasing ingredients. Then there are two ingredients described as "Chelating Agent." I never heard of this sort of chemistry either. So that sent me on another web search where Wikipedia describes it as: roughly a chemical process to convert metal oxides (rust) into something that is soluble in water (allowing you wash it away.)
The product page also describe the product as part of the EPA’s Safer Choice Program, so this is less harmful than other products that could be used for cleaning.
So you have made a very interesting discovery Loren! :thumbsup: I'm not sure what else it could be used for, but it certainly would be worth doing some experimenting to see what other parts could be rescued by this sort of chemistry.
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers, Edouard :occasion14:
gssizzler:
Very good to know and useful instead of being destructive! Never thought of trying CLR on rubber parts!
option B9:
Thanks Loren, That's good information, I've seen it on the shelf at my local hardware store but never purchased it because here in NYC we don't have a calcium or lime problem in our water.
Since we are on the subject of chemicals. Last summer my neighbor (a HVAC Engineer) gave me a spray can of Aerokroil, he said "It's a real good lubricant" I used it in the garage on many different projects and it works much better than WD40. My overhead garage door constantly squeaked, I would spray it with WD40 the squeak would go away for several days then return. I tried spraying it with the Aerokroil, and it's just over a year now that the squeak is gone. Works really well on rusty bolts. I even tried it as a cutting fluid when tapping a thread. It seems to do it all, the only drawback is that it does have a strong odor so I wear gloves when using it. and it's very expensive . A 13oz spray can is $18.50 at a local hardware store (not a big box store) so I buy the 8oz non aerosol can for $13.00 it has a flip top oil can tip so there is less waste. I still use WD40 in my pump bottle to clean and protect my tools & fishing equipment, but the Kroil is used on hardware and moving parts.
Tony :thumbsup:
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