Removing the body from the frame - question

[elagache]

Dear Morrie and mid-60s Buick owners with . . . . "plans!" . . .

They are on the net Red Wing Steel Works, free down load.

Here is the URL for the impatient:

http://redwingsteelworks.com/

Interesting site with a number of plans including plans to build your own utility trailer.

Cheers, Edouard 

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Is there an easy way to remove/ replace the nuts?

[nail lark]

Dear Morrie and mid-60s Buick owners with . . . . "plans!" . . .

They are on the net Red Wing Steel Works, free down load.

Here is the URL for the impatient:

http://redwingsteelworks.com/

Interesting site with a number of plans including plans to build your own utility trailer.

Cheers, Edouard 

More roam to hall Buick parts

[TrunkMonkey]

Is there an easy way to remove/ replace the nuts?

I have used "Kano Kroil" for anything that is rusted, galvanic corroded, or otherwise stuck. Stuff is the bee's knees.

In the middle of a frame on 1964 Skylark convertible restoration, engine, tranny, rear end swap and complete replacement of suspension and brakes, to include pulling the windshield.

As can be imagined, there are a lot of parts that are 53 years old and have never been touched.

I put a drop or two, let it set 5 minutes, it will break free and most of the time I can use my fingers to remove the bolts.

Yesterday I was prepping to remove the windshield and the top of the windshield bow chrome trim are 6 screws that hold the trim.

They were so badly rusted, that the cross points were no longer able to get a screwdriver in them.

I took my time to drill the heads off and then pulled the trim. There was not enough shank to get purchase with vise grips so I figured I would drill and use an "E-Z out". I tried to drill them and ended up "work hardening" them and the drill bits would not bite. (drill trigger hard to control speed)

It was late and I did not want to leave it, so I put Kroil on them and then used a chisel and was able to get enough at the edge to slowly tap and turn them out enough to get them with vise grips. Took about 15 minutes to remove all of them and no damage.

So, pardon my unsolicited "pitch", but I know many folks either damage something trying to strong arm things, or resort to torch heating.

Since a lot of what we deal with are parts no longer made, piss poor reproductions, expensive decent reproductions or "YGTBFKM?!!! overpriced NOS (we all know know that guy is...) I wanted to pass along the info.

No affiliation except using the stuff.

http://www.kanolabs.com

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Is there an easy way to remove/ replace the nuts?

I have used "Kano Kroil" for anything that is rusted, galvanic corroded, or otherwise stuck. Stuff is the bee's knees.

In the middle of a frame on 1964 Skylark convertible restoration, engine, tranny, rear end swap and complete replacement of suspension and brakes, to include pulling the windshield.

As can be imagined, there are a lot of parts that are 53 years old and have never been touched.

I put a drop or two, let it set 5 minutes, it will break free and most of the time I can use my fingers to remove the bolts.

Yesterday I was prepping to remove the windshield and the top of the windshield bow chrome trim are 6 screws that hold the trim.

They were so badly rusted, that the cross points were no longer able to get a screwdriver in them.

I took my time to drill the heads off and then pulled the trim. There was not enough shank to get purchase with vise grips so I figured I would drill and use an "E-Z out". I tried to drill them and ended up "work hardening" them and the drill bits would not bite. (drill trigger hard to control speed)

It was late and I did not want to leave it, so I put Kroil on them...

http://www.kanolabs.com

I will try the kano Kroil. A friend of mine uses water.

I have some broken, badly rusted bolts/nuts; no way to salvage these.

I think I will need to chisel-out the little cover keeping the nuts in place. What else can you do?

[TrunkMonkey]

Looks like they might be "blind nuts".

Is the cage spot welded over the nut all the way around?

If not, you might be able to pry of cut one edge off and slip the old nut out and put a new one in.

And if you do chisel them off, keep the cages and spot weld them back on, unless you can gain access to hold them when you reassemble, or if you ever need to disassemble.


I also use "Evapo Rust", on nuts, bolts and other things to remove rust. It only removes the oxidation and most parts are remarkebly useful rather than using blasting, acids, sanding and wire brush.

[elagache]

Dear Michael, George, and mid-60s Buick warriors against rust!

I also use "Evapo Rust", on nuts, bolts and other things to remove rust. It only removes the oxidation and most parts are remarkebly useful rather than using blasting, acids, sanding and wire brush.

Would this be the outfit?

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Here is the material safety data sheet on the stuff:

http://www.evapo-rust.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Evapo-Rust-Safety-Data-Sheet-2015.pdf

Glancing over the material safety data sheet the good news is that it appears to be as safe as they claim.  The bad news is that they don't give away any secrets on how the stuff works!  I must admit I'm more than a little curious!

Cheers, Edouard 

[Polishmeatballpizza]

Looks like they might be "blind nuts".

Is the cage spot welded over the nut all the way around?

If not, you might be able to pry of cut one edge off and slip the old nut out and put a new one in.

And if you do chisel them off, keep the cages and spot weld them back on, unless you can gain access to hold them when you reassemble, or if you ever need to disassemble.


I also use "Evapo Rust", on nuts, bolts and other things to remove rust. It only removes the oxidation and most parts are remarkebly useful rather than using blasting, acids, sanding and wire brush.

So, you cannot use the EvapoRust as a penetrating fluid?

[TrunkMonkey]

Well, that depends.

The metal needs to be wet for hours to days to remove the oxidation. And I am not sure how well it penetrates mated parts.

But you give me a challenge. I will find something "crusty" to toss in the vat and see how it works as a "penetrating" solution.

The Evapo-rust works by immersion or "wetted" material.  For example, my glove box door was rusted and the cost of enough product to submerge the whle door was more that I wanted to spend, so I laid if flat in a pyrex baking dish and poured enough E-R to cover most of the door adn then used Scott Paper towels to cover the stop/support arm and the other parts of the door sticking up out of the solution, and it "wicked" and kept the surface wet. A few days later I pulled it out and rinsed it off.

So, iot you have a surface area you need to use it one, applying a cloth and keeping it moistened with E-R and covering that with plastic wrap to slow evaporation, I think you could work large areas of surface rust.

I tossed the rollers from the seat tracks and several other orange rusted nuts, bolts and such in there and they came out a few days later, clean and bright.

I think it is an ionization, and the "rust" is removed and "drops" as sediment to the bottom of the container.  I agitate the container every once in awhile when I think of it, and then let it set a day and "decant" the solution carefully to avoid pouring the sediment back into the container. I have used 2 gallons for the past three months on quite a bit of items, and it still is working.

It seems to "slow down" after several uses, but still working.

No damage or negatives to anything, except that it looks like it "parkerized" some washers that I had in with chrome bumper bolts. so, dissimilar metals might be a problem with anode/cathode reaction.

It has no real odor, is not volatile, not an acid, and if you spill any, it wipes up with a damp sponge, even if it dries.

It is worth buying and trying just to see it work. You can use it one tools as well.

Hope that helps.