Ginky Weeds Restoration Project

[dsags]

http://65gs.com/board/index.php?topic=862.msg6526#msg6526  Reply #52

I researched the heck out of this a few years ago for my '66 GS....
I've bought body mount kits from Year One ( hardware store-grade bolts were disappointing), CARS (same as everybody else but they cost more) and Ground Up. All the bushings looked the same, but the Ground-up kit at least had the correct flanged bolts included for $80 :
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=DCC-1515

If you want the best match to originals, I'd recommend the following:
1) The kit from Ground-Up, pn DCC-1515
2) There are 2 mounts over the rear axle that don't use bolts. (Puck bushings) You can get repos from the CARS spin-off site here: I believe Ames sells these too.
http://www.oldcarstuff.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1450
pn BM-11

Mounts behind the rear wheel are a larger diameter, about 2.5". The oldcarstuff BM4 and BM644 are close, but may be a little thicker.

Another source for individual bushings is www.restorationspecialties.com    I bought a few bushings from them to use for the rad support. A very close match, but I had to enlarge the ID.

[WkillGS]

^^^^^^ That looks familiar!

Bill followed up on some of that info and we discussed it on V8:
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?290996-My-66-GS-hardtop-body-mounts

[dsags]

Walt, not everyone is a V8Buick member so ....

Picture #1 of Lower washers, bolts, and rubbers, washers are the same except the 2 rear one' they are slightly smaller. Rubber mounts all seem to be the same, front 4 bolts and 2 rear are the same length, the center under the door, are shorter, not sure about the 2 in the rear wheel well, had to cut off heads to remove.

Picture #2 of drivers side front, the inner mount is larger.

Picture#4 of rear wheel well, the mount is larger

This car appears to have never been apart.

[dsags]

Picture#10 of rear mount, the steel insert appears slightly different.

Pictures #8 and 9 of rubber mounts only, no bolt, 2 each side under rear seat area and over rear spring pocket, these are the same but smaller in dia and height than 6/72 ones.

[elagache]

Dear Chuck and mid-60s road-trip cruisers . . .

No chrome, but how about polished aluminum?

Ooooh!  Serves me right to have not check a bit further.  All of a sudden that is starting to look like a very interesting addition to my trusty wagon!

Thanks for spotting that accessory! 

Cheers, Edouard 

[cwmcobra]

Does anyone have pictures of how the fuel return line on cars with A/C is routed along the frame?  My parts car had this line replaced and I'm quite sure it's not in the right space.  The clips in the frame appear to only be used for the main fuel line and the brake line.  Where does the return line go??   

Thanks!

Chuck

[Loren At 65GS]

Chuck,

  The return line is attached to the fuel supply line using a special clip.  I'll take a look at one of the chassis I have around and see if that still has the lines on it.

  Loren

[Loren At 65GS]

Couple of pictures of the lines and of the clips that hold the return line to the brake line.

[cwmcobra]

Thanks Loren.  So I conclude that I need a set of the brake/fuel line clips that pop into the frame and a set of the "S-hook" clips that hook the return line to the brake line.  I see they are available from Inline Tube (and probably others).  Looks like Inline Tube sells them in sets of 10 each.

 

Chuck

[Loren At 65GS]

Correct Chuck!

  Loren

[cwmcobra]

Time for an update.  I'm getting ready to paint my frame and control arms and have all the parts to put the suspension back together.  Today, I expect my painter and I will be putting GM Chassis Black on the underside of the body.  And the interior will get its coat of red primer.  Then he'll be ready to put sealer on the body, then base coat.  That will make it look entirely different than the yellow high build primer look it has now!

The engine came apart pretty well, except I broke a thermostat housing bolt in the coolant crossover manifold.  The only visual problems I see are a mark in one of the cylinder bores that scares me a bit; almost looks like a crack, but no coolant leakage.  And the timing chain has about an inch of slop in it.  A picture of the mark is below.

One other thing that surprised me....the valvetrain in the two heads look different as night and day.  On the driver's side, it's all clean looking, almost new, with very little visible wear on valve tips.  On the passenger side, everything is discolored and appears as if it has scale and/or sludge on it.  And the valve tips are obviously more heavily worn.  I'm wondering if the heat riser valve in the exhaust on that side stuck closed and caused exhaust gas backpressure that heated the entire head more than usual.  My heat riser was broken when I got it and I just wired it with the butterfly in the open position.  Of course, the PCV is on that bank as well, but I don't understand why that would cause higher heat within the valve cover.  Pictures below.

Ordering parts from Carmen this week and will get the block and heads to the local machine shop soon.  Sure hope that mark doesn't turn into a disaster......

Chuck

[telriv]

They get cruddy like that normally from an improperly operating crankcase ventilation system. Usually mainly on the right side with the "Nails".

[cwmcobra]

The first part of the body is finished.  Got the underside painted in GM Chassis Black today.  Woohoo!!   

Before and after pictures below.  Tomorrow we will paint the interior in Red Primer.  Stay tuned!

 

Chuck

[WkillGS]

Great progress Chuck!
Did your car originally have undercoating on it? That seems to have varied according to where it was built.
My Fremont, Ca cars had it in only in and behind the rear wheelwells, and my Baltimore cars had it on the floor pans as well.

I had a hard time matching the red interior primer. The PPG epoxy was too red. Rustoleum was actually a better match.... and cost MUCH less.
For 'factory correct' be sure to put LOTS of body-color overspray onto the interior, and some on the underside.

Great to see your progress. 

[cwmcobra]

Thanks Walt.  This car was built in Flint and I don't think it had undercoating. 

My painter has done quite a few GM restorations and has the red primer for the interior.  I don't know what it is, but will check it out tomorrow.  And we are in agreement on overspray.  He's already asked me about that and agrees with your recommendation! 

I also have gray lacquer on the way for the dash and urethane for the steering wheel. 

Wait till you see the body color.....one near and dear to your heart: Verde Green.  The interior will be white though, unlike your Saddle interior.  We're actually not too far away from base coat.

 

Chuck