Wyoming 65 GS Restoration

[Mark Ascher]

Dwaine,

04D is the 4th week of April. "ROA pres" is Riviera Owners Assoc. president.

There's lots of info online that you can put together for the machine shop, so they have a good idea
of what to look for when going through the nailhead rebuild.
I believe the flexplates are specific. You might try a place like Bendtsens for a lead.

http://www.transmissionadapters.com/

Mark

[WkillGS]

Flexplates....
1) The 65-66 Skylark GS uses a smaller diameter converter that also has different bolt locations. The 65-66 flexplates have a total of 6 holes to mount the 2 different converters, instead of just 3 holes on the 64 models.
2) The repo flexplate from Bendtsens doesn't look properly balanced to me. Their eBay page states they ARE balanced, so you best call them to confirm.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick-nailhead-flexplate-64-66-401-425-w-400-trans-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c5832e076QQitemZ190458290294QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Here's a pic of a stock 64 plate next to the repo. That huge chunk of steel on the stock one is for balancing! Also note the 3 hole vs 6 hole converter mounting holes.

On the engine rebuild, the first thing I would caution about is to NOT install hardened vale seats in the heads. The heads are very thin in that area, and installing new seats will often break into a water passage and ruin the head.

Here are a couple of online articles, enjoy!
http://www.webrodder.com/index.php?page=showStories&pageNum=0&CID=&search=nailhead

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/81904/nailing_down_the_buick_nailhead.aspx

[Weldar]

Walt - Thanks. Have already read through those links and printed the one off referencing Centerville Automotive and gave to the Machine shop owner. This may be obvious but what is the flexplate balancing against?

Have posted a coupe of pics of the motor at the shop (Wells Engine & Machine) this morning. So far looks like the cylinders are 0.012" over and the crank looks in good shape, so I guess a good start.

[WkillGS]

This may be obvious but what is the flexplate balancing against?

The Nailhead is externally balanced. What that means is both the flexplate on the rear, and the harmonic balancer on the front are weight-offset and  add to the counterweights on the crankshaft.
An engine that is internally balanced would have all the required weight in the crankshaft.
That counterweight or offset balance is needed to offset the weight of the rods/pistons.

Tom once posted the Nailhead flywheel/flexplates have 4.5 ounces of offset weight..... that explains the extra metal you see on the stock flexplate.

[Weldar]

Walt,

Got it. Thanks. For some reason I kept thinking that each flexplate was unique to the motor and if a new one was needed it would need some voodoo magic to get it balanced. Thanks again.

[WkillGS]

You'll often see a few holes drilled into a flexplate to fine tune the balance.
There is even a procedure in the shop manual to correct engine vibration by adding clip weights to the flexplate.
So even if a replacement is a bit off, it can be corrected

[Weldar]

Update: The machinist found a hairline crack in the block near the starter ring. Going to use the Lock'N'Stitch repair method. Have done some research and this seems to be the best option for repair.

The frame stripped and moved outside until spring. Real axle marking is (I think) A 19 or A 49. Also have the "O" with an "X" stamped in it. Does not match the rear axle ID table in the Chassis Manual but still assume it is a 3.08 ratio.

[WkillGS]

The circle with the 'x' denotes posi-traction
My 65 has an 'E' stamp which isn't in the manual either. But it is a 3.36 ratio.

[Weldar]

Been a while since I've checked in. Made it down to Nebraska this week and stopped into the machine shop to visit. Spring rush is on and thus not a lot of progress on the 401. Did take a look at the crack which indeed was very hard to see and would have to be magnafluxed to really see it. I'm comfortable that the lock and stitch process will work. I'll be back in July and hopefully the motor will be completed by then. Dropped the seats off with a local shop to install new foam and covers. Will be using rear bottom springs from my Skylark donor.  I could probably tackle the seats but time is hard to find. Will probably need some recommendations on re-chrome shops at some point. Hopefully winter is done in Wyoming and I can start work on the frame.

As a side note I added a pic of the elk herd that has been hanging around the house for the last month or so.

[Brian]

Wow!  Where in Wyoming do you live? 

[Weldar]

Brian - I live about 5 miles outside of a little town called LaBarge. Very quiet, a lot of winter (i.e. long) and wildlife, but hard to work on a car sometimes (the closest NAPA is 20 miles away). We had a ton of snow in the high country this winter which drives the elk down lower then usual. Always get hundreds of mule deer as well.

[Brian]

So what does one do to make a living when you are out that far?  I just looked at where you are on mapquest, and you are definitely out there! 

[Weldar]

I am a mechanical engineer for an Evil multinational oil and gas company. Work at a natural gas treating facility but travel quite a bit.

[glenn4spgs]

Wow what a great way to show that evil oil company how wrong they are !! Than by restoring that gas guzuling nailhead Keep up the great work. Maybe go for the two four's option!!         Glenn!

[Brian]

Welder--I am also a mechanical engineer and I develop products that are used in your industry.  I work at Doosan Portable Power (used to be Ingersoll Rand) and I design the large, high pressure diesel powered air compressors that the oil and gas industry uses for drilling.  They are built here in the plant where I work in Statesville, NC.   Working on a new machine now that has the new Tier 4i emissions level engine in it.