Wyoming 65 GS Restoration

[Weldar]

Well I've been tearing down for a couple of months now. Not in a hurry and don't have a lot of time in the evening and the twin boys keep me hopping on the weekends. Anyway, removed the pass side fender tonight and found the build sheet glued on just above the vent port. It is in rough shape but I can make out some info.

Have lots of pics and will start posting some as I'm to the point of needing some advise on how to proceed. Really did not think I needed to go this far but I can see now to do it right I'll need to be "all in".

[Weldar]

Alright. Remember I said it was rough. Tried different light positions as well. There a few other scrap pieces that have letters showing but I did not take pics. Really want to save this but not sure of best way. Any suggestions?

First two pics show the location: Pass side fender just above GS vent trim (Can't remember the name of this piece!). One pic shows the build sheet "as found" (I thought it was a wasp nest at first). The other one shows the glue residue after the it was removed.

Next three are close up pics in one light condition.

[Weldar]

Close up pics in second light condition.

[Brian]

Best thing to do is find someone with a scanner and scan a high-resolution .jpg or .pdf of it.   The best way to preserve the original is to laminate it after you scan it. 

[65GS]

enclosed is a copy of the build sheet in my conv. back in 1971. you will see it is for a yellow ht. never did find the one for my conv. thankfully i did get a copy of the shipping invoice from Flint to my dealer here in Pa.

Al

[Weldar]

Scanned image. Pics posted last night are better. Will laminate and keep in the car.

Appreciate comments as to the number sequencing and associated typed identifiers i.e. 46(?), 45(J), 44(3), 43(7), 42(2).....62(?), 61(1), 60(A), 59(?), 58(J).....

[Weldar]

Thought I'd start posting a few pics as I go.

[65GS]

welder

I found a partial build sheet when i pulled up the tar insulation/ padding under the carpet. It was located around the shifter hole on the floor.

hope this helps

Al

[Brian]

What is the large bracket with the idler pulleys on the passenger side of the engine--did the car have an under-dash AC unit on it at some point in it's past?   

[Mark Ascher]

Brian,

That's what it looks like to me. By the way, "Welder", very nice car, looks like a great one to restore.
Please post your name......... and keep the pictures coming!

Mark

[Weldar]

Brian - Correct. I bought this car for $400 back in 1976 and drove it through high school (my mother still says she would have not let me buy it if she would have known how much power it had). It had a huge honkin' evaporator in the trunk with blowers cut into the package tray. Being 1976 and 16 yrs old I needed an 8 track and speakers more then AC. So out came the evap and blowers, don't know what ever happened to them.

Fast forward - removed the compressor, condenser unit (which was bolted to the front of the radiator), hoses, wiring (which was a mess under the dash) and all that is left is that bracket. Whoever put it in did a good job cosmetically but it was a crap install as I found out during tear down.

Dwaine   

[Weldar]

Mark - Well, you know how pics are. Car has some issues to work through but I'm sure it will be OK eventually. Wish it would not have sat outside for the last 15 years. 

[Weldar]

Starting to think about how to lift the body off. Don't have a lot of equipment at this point but will get whatever is needed. Question for those that have done this before - What is the estimated weight of the body less fenders, hood, deck lid, doors and glass? I'm guessing 1200 lb. Have beefy rafters in the garage and I'm thinking with some additional bracing these could be used. Thanks in advance.

Dwaine

[Mark Ascher]

Dwaine,

I have no idea how heavy the body is. Loren Alexander and I pulled the body off mine with everything intact less the front sheetmetal.
All interior, glass, doors, decklid, etc. was together. We raised the body up with floor jacks, and dropped the frame down.

We raised the rear up of body up, and while dropping the frame down, slid 4x4's under the back and set the 4x4's on concrete blocks.
Then raised the front up under the a-pillars, and slid 4x4's under the cowl resting on concrete blocks.

I'm oversimplifying, but that was the basic process. I think the whole job, from taking out the e-brake stuff, gas tank, body mounts, etc. took less than 2 hours. But Loren knows what he's doing.......


Mark

[nut465gs]

Dwaine,

I agree with Mark. It's safer and easier to use the "floor jack and 4X4 method" rather than stringing it up using your garage rafters. I used a 2" x 6" x 4' board on top of my floor jack to spread out the weight and not damage the truck pan or floor boards. I lifted the back up about eight inches or so, then moved to the front and raised it about eight inches slipping the 4" x 4" in between the body and frame. Then I went back to the truck a lifted it again another 8" or so, then moved back to the front. Repeating the procedure until it was higher enough to roll the frame out.  Once it was now high enough utilize concrete blocks to support the 4" x 4". I also made a "extention" to the floor jack using 6" x 6" wood blocks to increase it's reach to get the body high enough. I removed the rear tires and rested the rear wheel hubs on wheel dollies. This lowered the frame far enough to roll the frame forward and out from under the body. By having the car up on blocks, I was then able to work on cleaning and painting the under carriage. It was surprisingly easy to reverse the process to get the frame back under after I restoring it. Work slowly and safely so as not to damage the body or yourself. One very important step to take regardless of how you remove the body from the frame, take measurements. You want to get it back on square and in the same position. If it is cockeyed, the front clip/fenders/hood will not line up square.

Good luck,
JohnEgel