65 gs drivers side exhaust manifold removal proceedure

[Arthur]

I own a 65 skylark gs since it came off the showroom floor. I have recently had to remove a stock starter which required the manifold to be loose. Starter has been removed and and I discovered that the manifold needed to be removed for weld repair. My issue is that the driver side stock manifold will not lift out or go down. What has to happen to get the manifold out? Help

[cwmcobra]

I believe you have to remove the bolt holding the motor mount to the block on the frame, then jack up that side of the engine until the manifold can be extracted.  Others might have more specific information.

Good luck!

Cheers!

Chuck

[GS66]

You might want to consider installing a mini starter since you need one anyway to make things easier down the road.

[Mark Ascher]

Arthur,

Chuck is correct. You'll have to remove the left motor mount bolt and raise the engine enough so the manifold will drop down below.
Don't forget to disconnect the exhaust pipe... assuming an auto trans car?

Mark

[Arthur]

Thanks this helps a bunch, I will remove the left motor mount bolt as well as consider a mini stater. Do I have to unbolt the bolts under my 4 speed transmission before lifting the motor or any other place? I do not feel it will need much of a lift to get me clearance.  Where is the best place to place the block of wood to avoid any damage? Are there any tricks to getting the mounting thru bolt out?

[Brian]

I have always taken both motor mount bolts loose, taken the bolt out of the fan shroud (if your has A/C and car has a shroud), then using an appropriate length 4x4 wood block, place it between the damper on the front of the engine and a floor jack to lift the engine.
Do not take the transmission mount loose--it has plenty of flex in it to let the engine lift up.
  Also, make sure there is enough slack in your heater hoses so they don't pull on the heater core when you lift the engine and rip the necks out of it. 

[Mark Ascher]

If it's a stick (sounds like a 4 speed?) it helps to disconnect the clutch linkage that runs right by the manifold near the exhaust pipe as well.

Mark

[Arthur]

I have not loosened anything on the passenger side so will I need to do so to get to that mount? I was hoping to raise the left side without loosing the passenger side however I want to do this the right way without messing anything up. This car does not have air so that will help. I will check the hose to make sure it does not damage the core while lifting.

Over the years I have done a lot of work on keeping the car up and the starter has to be one of the most difficult parts to change out. I did one in the late 70s and did not remember this much work. I was young then which really helped and the manifold bolts were easier to remove 40 years ago. I was considering installing a Wilson rebuilt stock starter, maybe I should re-think that?

[cwmcobra]

I think Brian's advice is the best.  You might find it's not difficult to pull the bolts from the motor mounts; mine were pretty easy. 

Tom Telesco (telriv on this site) sells mini starters for the Nailhead.  Many here have used them and like them.

Chuck