What type of Oil

[1971]

I have a 1965 Buick Skylark GS that I recently purchased.  It has a 425 cu. in. engine out of a 1966 Riviera in it.  Can someone tell me the grade/type of oil I should use.  The oil's I see all say "SN" and I've heard that this type of oil does not contain the necessary zinc/phosphorus for the older engines?

thanks,  Richard

[vinnie]

I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil. It contains the zinc/phosphorus that you need. Available at your local [arts store. I get mine at NAPA.

Glenn

[elagache]

Dear Richard, Glenn, and mid-60s Buick chemists,

I have a 1965 Buick Skylark GS that I recently purchased.  It has a 425 cu. in. engine out of a 1966 Riviera in it.  Can someone tell me the grade/type of oil I should use.  The oil's I see all say "SN" and I've heard that this type of oil does not contain the necessary zinc/phosphorus for the older engines?

As you might have noticed, the selling of motor oil is a very competitive business and there seems to be at least 10 times as many opinions as rival products.  If it doesn't give you any issues, you might want to glance over the opening post on this thread from the other forum V-8 Buick:

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?222499-New-Oil-tech

It describes a presentation by this company Joe Gibbs:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/

So obviously biased.  Nonetheless, there are some interesting points about how oil has changed from the mid-60s and how you should make an effort to choose an oil based on what your engine is like and what where the engine specifications at the time.  One of the common questions is whether or not you can use synthetic oil in an older engine design.  While we all want to "luv" our rides with the best, what might be best for a modern engine isn't necessarily the best for an engine designed in the 1960s.

Definitely something to read up on!

Cheers, Edouard

P.S. Here is a four-part discussion on motor oil that is also very interesting:

• http://performancebiz.com/features/truth-about-oil-part-i
• http://performancebiz.com/features/truth-about-oil-part-ii
• http://performancebiz.com/features/truth-about-oil-part-iii
• http://performancebiz.com/features/blog-truth-about-oil-part-iv

[35chevcoupe]

I use Brad penn oil in several of my engines , along with a zinc additive made by Lucas products .
It is actually an engine oil break in additive but my race engine builder wants me to use it in every oil change .
It works especially well on small needle bearing parts .
just my 2 cents

[WkillGS]

10w30 is fine for year round use.
If your oil pressure is on the low side or you are in a hot climate, you can step up to 10w40.

Special oil blends or additives are recommended for older engines using conventional non-roller cams/lifters.

In addition to the Valvoline racing, Brad Penn, and Joe Gibbs oil mentioned, Hemmings also offers a special blend:
http://www.hemmings.com/classic-oil

I use an additive called ZDDPlus. It was developed by a Turbo Buck guy. Now there are a couple of knock-offs out there such as ZDDP Max and Eastwood ZDDP oil additive.
I buy the original ZDDPlus locally from Kirbans. Alail on ebay for $7-10. A 4 oz bottle is added to each oil change. I add it to a general use 10w-30 oil such as Valvoline or Castrol.
http://zddplus.com/

[elagache]

Dear John, Walt, and mid-60s Buick fans,

Hope not to stir up any controversy, but the upshot of all those readings I posted is that your engine is better off with an oil specifically formulated for period when your engine was designed.  If the ZDDP additive isn't matched to the other components in the oil, it won't work as well.  In the beginning of the "ZDDP" crisis, no manufacturer was formulating oils specifically for cars of the 1960s.  That market is now large enough that you can buy an oil designed for our classic engines.

I was using Joe Gibbs oil because that is what the engine builder recommended.  However, this market is now expanding rapidly so there are a number of vendors creating oils which claim to be intended for our cars.  I would be careful to confirm that these products do indeed match the oils created during the 1960s, but if you find a brand that you are satisfied with, it is probably the way to go.  After all, why hassle with an oil additive if you can get what your engine really needs included in the oil itself.

Cheers, Edouard 

[1971]

All you Buick guys,
    Thanks a lot for your suggestions and recommended website readings regarding engine oil.  At least I know more and can make an informed decision.
                                                                Richard

[WkillGS]

Keep in mind the stock Nailhead has very mild valve spring pressures..... only 72 lbs closed and 177 lbs open. Add to that we (usually) aren't spinning at high rpm's like a built small block Chevy! So it's not seeing the high lifter/cam lobe pressures that many 'hi performance' engines encounter.  The modern SN oil is rated for flat tapped cams up to 215 lbs spring pressure and 0.375" lift..... our 401's have less pressure but more lift (0.440").... so even the modern oil almost (?) meets our 401's requirements. I'm comfortable just using a quality oil with an additive for a boost.

At $60 for an oil change, the Gibbs oil may be overkill. It all depends on your engine build and how you drive it.

[elagache]

Dear Richard, Walt, and mid-60s conservative shoppers,

At $60 for an oil change, the Gibbs oil may be overkill. It all depends on your engine build and how you drive it.

Point well taken.  Gibbs appears to have been one of the first companies to have taken the time to formulate an oil specifically for 1960s engines, but now they have a lot of competition.  I haven't taken the time to look, but I'm sure you can find a number of products with comparable specifications.  This hobby is expensive enough, there is no reason to pay more than necessary for something like motor oil.  The only thing to be careful about is to make sure the oil you buy is truly formulated with the proper amount of ZDDP and other components so that your 1960s engine gets the lubrication it was designed for.

Cheers, Edouard