Author Topic: Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.  (Read 506 times)

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Offline option B9

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Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.
« on: July 24, 2023, 08:54:08 PM »
  Hi everyone, I'm bringing this post from General Discussion to Projects & Restorations because I have no choice but to do some work on it to keep the water out and make it safe to drive until I can devote more time to the project, the Summer or Fall of 2024.
   We had an unexpected rain last Wednesday night, and I did not have the tarp covering the GS and the trunk was all wet the next day. So to prevent any further damage I had to open up the crispy spots under the original vinyl top and see the damage and temporarily patch it. I cut open both sides in the lower corners, both sides had large holes. Then I removed the lower molding, and the whole lower channel was filled with dirt. I used the shop vac to clean out the channel and I noticed the the channel was rotted completely, from one end to the other. To make the temporary fix I used 1/2 foam backing rod to take up the space in the channel then I covered it with a thin layer of 100% black silicone caulk. To repair the large holes on each side. I primed the rusted areas, then covered it with gaffers tape then a thin layer of silicone to water proof it. I let it dry over night . I water tested it and no leaks.  See photos..
   Next problem, no right brake lights.  :icon_scratch:
 
               Tony
 
65 GS Hardtop 401 Silver, Black Vinyl top, Black interior,  
65 GS Thin Pillar coupe 401 Red on Red interior (Steve Shuman's) undergoing restoration.
65 GS Convertible 401 White, Red interior, Black top. BCA # 15317

Offline elagache

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Sorry to hear about the unexpected damage Tony,

The weather is definitely more volatile these days.

Edouard 

Offline telriv

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Re: Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2023, 12:26:23 PM »
Part of the norm & to be expected on a 58yr. old vehicle.

Luckily some of the problem is available, I think GTO is the same.

Just A LOT of work to replace.

That'll learn ya to put the cover on it.

In comparison the brake lights are easy.

1st, thing to check is grounds.

Tom T.
Classic & Muscle Automotive
C/O Tom Telesco
12 Cook St.
Norwalk, Ct. 06853-1601
Daytime phone:
203-324-6045
No answer: leave message, will call back
E-Mail: telriv@yahoo.com

Offline schlepcar

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Re: Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2023, 03:12:58 PM »
  You're a brave man lifting that vinyl.  Now that you have swam half way across you can't really turn back. Front glass,rear glass....some metal work and duraglass. I would think it could be done without getting below mouldings. I don't think I have seen many that have not rusted there. Some of these cars got the vinyl top added just to cover the rust after they were traded in.

Offline option B9

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Re: Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2023, 09:13:55 PM »
Hi everyone :hello: The rust repair does not scare me at all. Looking for a repro patch panel OR taking photos and sending them down to DVAP in AZ is the time consuming part that I don't mind doing in the off season. Tom, I will look into  Pontiac replacement panels and see if they have something I can use.  Now the brake lights not working problem is definitely in the steering column, because the previous owner has a button on the dash with a wire going up into the column to operate the horn and if you jiggle the signal light lever the brake lights work then eventually stop working.. I need to pull the wheel and get the replacement parts...

    Tony
65 GS Hardtop 401 Silver, Black Vinyl top, Black interior,  
65 GS Thin Pillar coupe 401 Red on Red interior (Steve Shuman's) undergoing restoration.
65 GS Convertible 401 White, Red interior, Black top. BCA # 15317

Offline telriv

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Re: Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2023, 08:38:44 AM »
Yeah, probably/likely in the signal light switch.

Tom T.
Classic & Muscle Automotive
C/O Tom Telesco
12 Cook St.
Norwalk, Ct. 06853-1601
Daytime phone:
203-324-6045
No answer: leave message, will call back
E-Mail: telriv@yahoo.com

Offline schlepcar

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Re: Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2023, 01:52:19 PM »
   Tony,

     You got me thinking that the rest of the car looks too good to start doing weld work.  If you want to save some grief and money...I would definitely consider making my own repair pieces. I prefer a modern junk fender or hood to cut pieces out of because they are usually e-coated for rust protection. I just rebuilt some 65 Impala fenders using some chevy cobalt junk fenders as metal donors. In your case I would not be welding anything. Do some research so you're not just taking some youtube/gonjasmoker opinion but I think it would be in your best interest to use an epoxy panel bond for your repair. It is strong as weld and waterproof. The real advantage is no warped burnt paint to repair if you can stay away from it. The other advantage is small repairs that do no require used panels that will definitely be rusted on the back side or new panels that are twenty times larger than you need. Dan

Offline option B9

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Re: Projects & Restorations, Saving the Code Z Hardtop.
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2023, 04:59:36 PM »
 Hi Dan, the Z GS does have some rust issues, but nothing like the Red post coupe had. Most of the trunk is good except for the usual areas over the body mount, so those parts are reproduced and can easily be welded in and new rubber mounts installed. The stainless wheel well moldings are going to be removed and NOT going back on the GS because all they do (here in the rustbelt) is hold moisture and rot the fender lips. So I have some of those areas that need metalwork too. This GS was hit in the rear at some point in its life because it has some right rear quarter panel damage and trunk lid was a skylark lid not a GS lid, I made the correction drilling the extra hole and adding the GS emblem. Considering it does have 103 thousand miles and was used as a daily driver for many years (it has many parking lot dents to prove it) And lived here on Long Island all its life, It is a survivor.
   Yes, I have used the epoxy panel bond to do smaller repairs on several vintage cars including my post coupe GS restoration project. Its a great way to permanently affix Two panels  together when welding is not an option due to the excessive heat. The special gun used to squeeze the epoxy out of the Two tubes is very expensive, so I made my own out of a few wooden dowels and it works just fine.
    I also make as many of my own patch panels, I find that hoods are the best way to get good flat panels that I cut into quarters and keep in stock.   Hood support braces also have tight curves that I use for fender lips. Not much goes to waste here !!  I have a collection of pipes, bars, pulleys, and sorted blocks that I find anywhere that I use to shape the metal. There are no fancy tools in my garage. That's the fun and the challenge,     :hello:

    Tony :thumbsup:   
65 GS Hardtop 401 Silver, Black Vinyl top, Black interior,  
65 GS Thin Pillar coupe 401 Red on Red interior (Steve Shuman's) undergoing restoration.
65 GS Convertible 401 White, Red interior, Black top. BCA # 15317