65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
Drivetrain => The Nailhead => Topic started by: Rickesota on May 25, 2017, 05:42:14 PM
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First, I'm not a great or even good mechanic.
I'm trying to get my 225 running well until I can get my 350 put in. I finally put in my Pertronix and new distributor today. After fighting with the Pertronix and getting the distributor indexed properly as I didn't mark the rotor position :(...
SHE WAS RUNNING!
Alas, after a few seconds I started hearing a tapping, and then a knocking sound. I felt the rocker covers...no vibration there. Put my hand on the distributor and I could definitely feel the banging through the distributor cap. Two friends are hypothesizing that the new distributor is somehow blocking an oil galley. I haven't run the car for > 30 seconds at a time so I am hoping I have avoided any damage.
O'Reilly's still has my old distributor and have ordered another new one for me.
Anything you guys can offer?
THANKSTHANKSTHANKS!!!!
Rick
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First, I'd try to get the original distributor back before it's gone so you can compare the two closely. Is there a reason you didn't install the Pertronix in the original distributor?
Is it possible the distributor was not fully seated?
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I'm picking up the old one tomorrow. The advance wasn't working on the old one, and it looked original, so I figured the shaft was loosey goosey too. Plus the new one was fairly cheap.
As for being seated, I thought it either is seated and working or not seated and nothing works. Can a distributor be 'kind of' seated and still allow a vehicle to run???
Thanks,
Rick
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As for being seated, I thought it either is seated and working or not seated and nothing works. Can a distributor be 'kind of' seated and still allow a vehicle to run???
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You need to be sure it is seated all the way and engages the oil pump shaft!
Install is a little tricky since the dist shaft will start to rotate when it starts to engage the drive gear on the cam....it won't engage the oil pump if if that is not lined up, and dist will not seat fully. It will still run tho.
You can align the oil pump shaft by using a long screwdriver to engage the slot in the end to turn it.
YouTube is a fantastic resource for DIY tips. There's likely a vid there that will show you better than I can explain it.
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I think you explained it pretty well Walt. The engine will run but the oil pump will not rotate or it will rotate very slowly Rick.
Also make sure the new distributor is the same length.
Hope it helps!
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It's alive...
I did not have the dizzy secured properly and you could see where the oil pump shaft scored each end of the tang that fits into the oil pump shaft slot. However, there was still more than enough meat on it to allow me to secure it properly this time with the help of a couple well-placed taps. She now runs knock-free. Still runs like crap even with new: carb, dizzy, plugs, wires, coil, Pertronix, rotor, proper timing...but I guess that's for me to figure out as I keep learning.
Thanks for the help!!!! I learned a bunch of stuff in the process, especially to have confidence and not quit.
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Have you checked the timing with a timing light since you put the distributor back in? If you are off one tooth, it can run, but not be timed properly.
Loren
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Yup - looked online and found 5 degrees BTDC w/vacuum disconnected, so I used my timing light and set it to that. Could it still be off?
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Sounds like you're good there. Check for vacuum leaks. A vacuum leak can cause a poor running condition.
Sometimes a vacuum leak can be found by using spray can carb cleaner. Using the long nozzle , spray it at areas around the carburetor and see if there is a change in idle.
Another thing, if that is the distributor with Pertronix, there has been some issues with that. One of our members had a Pertronix unit go bad, just the other day. Number 3 cylinder had no spark. He ruled out the wire being an issue and also replaced the distributor cap. still no spark on #3. Turned out, one of the magnets on the Pertronix ring had come off. You can use your timing light to check for spark on each spark plug wire.
Loren
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Rick the 225 V6 was never thought to be a smooth running engine even when tuned to perfection. Buick and Oldsmobile stopped using the engine because of its rough idle. It just didn't fit the Buick Oldsmobile image. Jeep bought the 225 engine production tooling from GM because the little square torquey V6 fit so nicely in the Jeep. The first thing they did was install a heavier flexplate and flywheel to dampen out the rough idle.
Loren has a good suggestion, check your ignition and insure all plugs are firing.
Again check to make sure the harmonic balancer is not slipping. Using a felt tip pen draw a line across the balancer to check for slippage. If your timing appears to be changing I'd suspect the balancer.
If you have a vacuum gauge try setting the timing using that. Just adjust the timing until you have the greatest vacuum reading and see how that works.
Hope it helps.
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I once had a problem with a new coil. It ran but very poorly. You can try putting your old one back in .
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But how will Pertronix run with a 52 year old coil?