65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
General Discussion => How To's => Topic started by: BuickGS65 on November 02, 2015, 10:18:14 PM
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I'm in the process of restoring a few rear center emblems (Group 12.182, #1365681), and I wanted to share the results of the first completed emblem.
The first emblem I completed was an absolute piece of JUNK. Pitted, both tabs broken off, and the plastic emblem was extremely faded.
STEP 1 - Dissasembly
With a Dremel tool, grind off the 3 rivets holding the plastic emblem & metal tri shield in place. Be careful to grind off as LITTLE metal as possible.
STEP 2 - Rechrome
Send your disassembled emblem (now in 2 pieces) off to a die cast replating shop. I use a family business called Custom Metal Finishing Indiana http://www.chromeplatingin.com/
STEP 3 - Purchase Reproduction Plastic Tri Shield
Believe it or not, the center plastic emblem is reproduced. However, they are pricey and take 1 year for delivery. Emblemagic is the company. http://www.emblemagic.com Part # C65BK246
STEP 4 - Paint
Once you have the chrome back, you need to paint the center circle and the "stripes" on each tab. Tape off the appropriate areas and scuff the areas to be painted with a Scotch Brite "ultra fine" scuff pad. Paint with Rustoleum "Bar-B-Q Black" enamel spray paint (correct black).
STEP 5 - Assembly
After your plastic emblem arrives (1 year later), it is time for final assembly. Per the manufacturer instructions, coat the back of the emblem with clear 100% silicone for added longevity. Let it dry overnight. Assemble the tri shield chrome and the plastic tri shield to the body of the emblem using JB Weld. Allow to dry overnight and restoration is complete.
Again, the one I restored first (pictured) was absolute junk, but now it's hard to distinguish it from my NOS version (see picture below - I'll let you decide which one is NOS). I have three more to complete.
Hope this helps you on your restoration. Cheers.
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Great info! But one year for a repop? Are they handmade? (serious question).
Thanks for sharing. It looks great. I won't ask which is the NOS one! :nono:
Chuck
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Thanks for the post,
I need to get in gear on some of these detail items. UNLESS......you want to sell one of your restored ones in the future. I have a few cores....some better than others.
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Looks very nice. I'm guessing the NOS is on the left.
Loren
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Dear Dan, Chuck, schlepcar, Loren, and mid-60s Buick "detail oriented" restorers,
WOW!! :thumbsup:
A really neat part restoration Dan and lots of good information for all of us! I wasn't aware of Emblemagic although indeed it appears to be an outfit specializing in "if you have to ask - you can't afford it!" :laughing7:
I also liked that you also have pressed a Dremel rotary tool into your restoration work. I bought one for my model railroad projects, but it now does get significant use on my wagon. Like model railroading, the problem is that our eyes can resolve details on our cars that are much finer than our hands can easily reproduce!
Cheers, Edouard
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Just a reminder - if you want order the plastic insert (for November 2016) arrival, you need to get your order in soon - emblemagic.com
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Just finished another emblem.
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Very nice!! If you don't mind sharing, what do they charge you for the re-chrome?
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Very nice!! If you don't mind sharing, what do they charge you for the re-chrome?
Thanks!
I had 4 emblems replated in 2015. With tax & shipping it came out to $125/each. I had them reinforce the tabs, since that is a weak point in the part which often break. The plastic tri shield insert is right around $200 with tax & shipping.
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But one year for a repop? Are they handmade? (serious question).
Chuck:
Yes they are handmade. I did order a couple spares (you never know when they will be gone).
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Great looking piece Dan!
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Great looking piece Dan!
Thanks Jim!
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PM sent
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What do you think about using a "dead flat" clear coat on the the painted surface? (I don't think the factory did?)
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What do you think about using a "dead flat" clear coat on the the painted surface? (I don't think the factory did?)
Update: So I tried to paint one with "dead flat" clear. Do NOT do this! Even a "dead flat" clear completely RUINS the flat black paint. Leave it just primer and paint - NO CLEAR COAT.
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Listed one for sale on V8Buick:
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/show-quality-restored-to-nos-65-skylark-gs-rear-tail-light-emblem.321725/ (http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/show-quality-restored-to-nos-65-skylark-gs-rear-tail-light-emblem.321725/)
Thanks.
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Sigh. I have to buy a car for my kid. If you still have it in 90 days I will take it.