65GS.com - Buick Gran Sport Enthusiasts!
Electrical => Electrical => Topic started by: wildcat65 on January 01, 2013, 06:27:51 PM
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I have a mini starter from Russ and was wondering if anyof us are using one already
If so, what is the best way to handle the wiring? Its only got the Power Terminal and Solenoid...
What shall I do for the Yellow Wire?
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Yellow wire is to feed 12V to the coil when cranking so it has a hotter spark (coil is fed 9V through a resistance wire during normal operation). Car will run without that wire connected, but will be harder to start--especially in cold weather. This is all assuming you have point ignition in your car. If you converted to a electronic ignition system, that wire is not doing anything anyway.
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Without the yellow wire, I don't think the coil will have any power while cranking. I would have to test mine to see if that is true.
Anyway,
Russ mentioned adding a diode to connect to the yellow wire in the harness for systems that use a points distributor.
Here's more info from the Powermaster site:
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/faq-starter.html (http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/faq-starter.html)
>>>What do I do with the wire that went to the "R" terminal on the original starter?
In early original wiring harnesses, the "R" circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is no connection when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting.
Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD, or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases, this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an "R" terminal signal. To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 ) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)<<<
You can buy the wire kit from Russ for $15,
Powermaster wire from Jegs for $22:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/600/10002/-1?parentProductId=755522 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/600/10002/-1?parentProductId=755522)
or buy the diode from Radio Shack, $1.99:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062579 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062579)
BTW, A mini starter from Tom Telesco has the correct 3 wire solenoid, no diodes necessary! :icon_biggrin:
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Cool, I have a electronic distributor so that yellow is redundant.
Thanks, :headbang:
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I'm sure you will find Ted that there is NOT 12 volts in the crank position, so you will NEED the diode.
Tom T.
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Good point Tom.
Ted, what distributor are you using? You might have to bypass the factory resistor wire, not all electronic dizzys can run on the 9 volts that it supplies.
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:BangHead: Pertronix distributor ... This has not been powered yet, but on my 65 sedan I got power for the Crane distributor from the transmission solenoid/ kick down Wire. Yellow wire was still hooked up to the starter.
I'll get the wire from Russ for this but this is still unclear. I've got a pertronix in the 65 GS engine. I need to do this right.